How to sew understitching like the professionals
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- čas přidán 19. 06. 2024
- Are you tired of gaping necklines and armholes when you sew your own clothing? Despite following the instructions and even adding understitching, maybe your curved seams are still coming out less than perfect.
If you've been sewing for a while, you likely already know about a technique called understitching. In this video, I'll show you how to take your understitching a step further with a couture sewing technique that utilizes negative ease. After mastering this technique, you'll never deal with gaping necklines and stretched out curves again!
#sewing #sewingtutorial #sewinghacks #sewingtips #sewingtipsandtricks
I've been sewing for 43 years and have the mindset that there is always something to learn. Wish I had known this before. I understitch necklines but sometimes a bit of gapping exists. Will try this out. Thanks for posting.
Loved the video! Editing suggestion: I found the music a bit distracting. I would prefer to just hear you explain things with no music in the background. :)
Great tutorial, but you probably should have mentioned which way the seam allowance is facing when you do the understitching, most people know but maybe newbies would not
I am a newbie and as I was watching the video I did wonder, could you please answer it, please? Thank you in advance!
Yes this felt incomplete
Th seam allowance faces away from the garment edge, and is understitched. This will force the facing to stay in place.
Are you stitching in the ditch (seam)?
You sew 1/16" away from the seam with the seam allowances underneath so they're caught in the stitching.
I have been garment sewing for 56 years and if I was ever shown this technique I must have forgotten! Thank you so much. You’ve acquired a new follower!
Pull the fabric and make certain the excess fabric underneath is lying to the right and you sew over it. That is just as important
I think it helps if you put interfacing on the facing and also clip the seam allowance, otherwise it will pucker.
You don't need to clip curved seams if the seam allowance is narrow enough. Home sewing patterns always make the seam allowances way too big.
Just wow! Thanks!
Where have you been all my life?🪡 Great tip in a well-executed video. 💯
Wow, fantastic tip, thank you 💖
Yes, I would like to see a video about understitching! Thank you.
I wish I’d known this, back in the days I made garments, I can think of many times it would have helped.
Wonderful advice. I can’t wait to use it. As an aside … to remember concave vs convex just think of the shape of a cave: a cave goes in so the concave curve goes in the convex goes out.
Thank you! Now I will never forget it!
thanks for sharing this!
Thank you for the demonstration. I would have liked to see lighter fabric and dark thread to actually see where the stitches were laying. New subscriber. Look forward to watching more of your videos.
I will do this next time! Thanks for your advice!
Thanks for the info. I could really use this tip when I sew my little nieces dresses. Thanks.
Thank you! Would absolutely love a more detailed video on understitching
Loads of tutorials on CZcams.
Wow! Thank you! I know about understitching. Learning this trick is really going to help.
im VERY much a beginner at sewing (and have been for years 😬bcuz i only do simple hems and minor alterations)...anyway, ive never done a lining or understitch but looking forward to doing it right the first time, thanks to your tip! 👍🏻
Thank you for showing us this technique!
Thanks.I didn't know this.
Yes, I wing understiching, but I don't actually know if I'm doing it right!
This video is precisely the more in-depth video I'm looking for.
Thanks for the tip!
I will definitively try this out because my solution has been to iron on a stay tape and distribute like one or one and a half centimeters of length against the shorter stay tape. If this is all it takes - 🤯
Clever! Thank you!
Thanks so much for sharing!❤️
Thank you for the video, really good tip!
Will definitely give this a try next time.
Excellent. Thank you for the tip.
Thanks very helpful
Mmmm.........very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
great tip thank you!
Thank you for sharing. Brilliant.
Thank you. 👍
Thank you so much! This is really helpful for me as someone new to sewing who was having neckline issues. 😅
Loved this video! Please do a deeper dive on the whys and hows of understitching.
Next time use a thread that can be easily seen.
Wonderful! Merci ma chérie. 💕🌷
I knew the technique of spreading the fabric as you understitch, but never understood how the technique helped to mold the fabric as you have shown. Thank you!
I learned it when studying evening gown construction, until then I had never heard of it! To get even more stretch, they often sew bias cut interfacing into the neckline of garments with really extreme curves like strapless sweetheart necklines. The bias helps add even another layer of stretchiness into the equation!
@@french.meadows Yes! A similar technique using bias cut interfacing is used in tailoring of men’s suit jackets to accommodate the curvature over the chest muscles.
I want to learn more from you, thank you for this technique
Thank you! How close are you to the seam as you are understitching?
I stitch about 1/16" away
Great technique! I would have assumed you need to press the seam first before understitching. It’s a pain on a curve! That’s why all those pressing hams. Does pressing first make a difference?
You don't need to press it first, and the understitching actually makes it much easier to press afterwards because it flattens the seam out
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Interesting. Are you saying we don’t need to clip the curve? I’ve done understitching but always clip first.
It depends on the size of your seam allowance. A small seam allowance may curve properly and not need any additional attention. RTW and European patterns don’t uniformly use the same size for all seams.
Okay, I learned this with a different term. So, I looked it up. We are both wrong. This is what I found;
A technique known as “seam reinforcement” or “stitching on the seamline.” This method involves sewing a line of stitching directly on the seam line from the right side of the fabric, usually after sewing the initial seam, to reinforce the seam and prevent gaping or stretching.
After sewing the seam, particularly in areas prone to stretching or gaping, such as armholes or neckline curves, you gently pull apart the fabric pieces and sew a second line of stitching directly on the existing seam line. This effectively tightens the seam and helps prevent any gaps or stretching that may occur during wear.
Seam reinforcement can be especially useful when working with stretchy fabrics or when sewing garments that require a close fit. It’s important to sew the reinforcement stitches evenly along the seam line to ensure that the fabric is evenly gathered or tightened without causing puckering or distortion.
Thank you for this video and a great demonstration.
Very interesting! I didn't know if there was an exact term for the technique!
Hmmm…I read your comment twice just to be sure I correctly perceived it. “Seam reinforcement” as you described in your comment seems to be different than what was demonstrated in this video. What you described in your comment is what I know as “stitching in the ditch,” which is stitching on the actual seam line where the threads that join the two pieces are. In quilting, if you actually press the seams open after joining two pieces of fabric versus pressing the seam allowance to one side or the other, “stitching in the ditch” is discouraged because the needle may literally cut or otherwise damage the threads of the original join. By doing so, you actually weaken the join, not reinforce it. That’s why, in quilting, we’re taught to press the entire seam to one side or the other; typically the side of the darkest fabric so the seam allowance doesn’t ghost and show to the topside (“right side”) of the finished quilt.
What was demonstrated in this video is different than what you described in your comment because she pulled on both sides of the joined pieces while stitching on three layers - the seam ALLOWANCE plus the facing piece, I.e. understitching. In my opinion or assessment of what you described in your comment and what she demonstrated here, her method seems to be preferred over stitching in the ditch to minimize gaping of curved areas on the body. But I’ll definitely be testing the two methods for myself and will switch to a ballpoint or jersey needle when stitching in the seam line (“stitching in the ditch”) to minimize thread damage within the original join.
Thank you so much for sharing this wonderful technique with all of us!
@@french.meadows I looked this up again today using chat GPT and got yet another result for a term;
Ah, I understand now. You're describing the technique known as "stretching the seam." It involves manually pulling the previously stitched pieces apart while sewing over the seam again. This creates slight gathers or gathers, which help to reduce gaping on curved seams by distributing the excess fabric more evenly.
This is crazy that there is no term gor this because when I saw your video I was thinking “stitch in the ditch” but then you pulled the fabric apart and then I was thinking “I’ve never seen this before so this isn’t stitch in the ditch”.
Sorry, I really did t mean to start out as THAT PERSON…. I’m not handing out know it all things but this was out of the desire to correct my own terminology and anything I improperly learned. I used chat GPT as my tool for discovery. So I tried again today and, drumroll, got yet again a DIFFERENT TERM. Ugh. As follows;
Ah, I u
nderstand now. You're describing the technique known as "stretching the seam." It involves manually pulling the previously stitched pieces apart while sewing over the seam again. This creates slight gathers or gathers, which help to reduce gaping on curved seams by distributing the excess fabric more evenly..
Personally, I can get with this last term the best but, I still would like a ruling. 😂
Confusion not clearing up and I’m thinking that’s okay because I’m going to use Stretching the seam as it seems to follow the sewing descriptions of stitch in the ditch and other terms. Seam reinforcement doesn’t do it for me.
I used chat gpt as google gave me nothing as well as every other sewing terminology website.
@@GayleHallAZ You may want to re read. Stitching in the ditch is typically used when attaching a waistband. It hides the additional stitching on the shown side while attaching the hidden side of the waistband.
I also didn’t see any facing applied in this video.
One question I DID have in this video was if the seam allowance was also separated.
Other than that, I’m just looking for a term for this wonderful technique. I haven’t found one yet. Closest I’ve got was “ stretching the seam”this morning and I think I can be comfortable with this.
In my research, google yielded nothing so I’ve been using chat gpt.
People like Gertie Hersch from Charm Patterns, Evelyn Wood from Vintage Sewing school, Professor Pincushion, Sew Anastasia, etc all call it understitching. Many of them have written books on sewing, otherwise own sewing schools. It's also called understitching in both New Look and Vogue pattern instructions. I have never once heard or seen it referred to as "stitching the seam."
But let's trust Google over Vogue.
It was a shame you didn’t have any camera close up shots of WHERE you were doing the stitching. For all I could see it could have been stitch-in-the-ditch stitching.
Thanks for your feedback! This video assumes you already know the technique of understitching i.e. where to apply the stitch, but yes, I need to work on my camera angles!
You can magnify the view to see more detail.
Understitching is a standard technique most people who make clothes are familiar with. If you didn't know what it was, you could have easily looked it up. This wasn't an understitching tutorial.
Love your info on understitching. Do you like your Julie machine. I sew with lots of stretchy material. How does your matching sew stretchy material. Mine bogs down , make tiny stitches. I’m looking to purchase a different machine. Thanks for your videos.
I love my Juki! I've had it for over 6 years now with no issues. However, it is a lockstitch machine, so it's not very useful for stretchy fabrics. If you mostly sew stretchy fabrics, a domestic machine with many different stitch types will be better for you. If you want an industrial machine, you will probably need a combination of a serger and a coverstitch machine to sew stretchy fabrics.
This was wonderful: clear and succinct. And you are very elegant 🦋 Thank you!Wondering if the tension is 'out and up' or just 'out' & perpendicular to the stitches! Newbie here, So grateful for the tips ❤
I would say just out! You shouldn’t need to push anything through the machine, it will do that for you ☺️
@@french.meadows thank you!! Excited to try this!✨
Cool video, thanks for the tutorial. What kind of machine do you sew on…
I've got a Juki DDL 8700 and I love it!
thank you so much for your instruction!
saying that--I have trouble hearing you--sound quality
I will work on this! I had the microphone clipped to my shirt but it wasn't actually working 🥲
I notice you don't trim the inner seam allowance (SA) so it's encased in the outer SA when you prepare it for understitching. Additionally, no clipping is done to the curve. Is this to avoid "bleed through" of the SA on the outside? Most sewing techniques can be done more than one way and this might be a case of the best way to treat the SA due to the type of fabric.
I was wondering this as well.
Since the seam allowance is only 1/4” to begin with I don’t find trimming or clipping the inner seam necessary. I find it’s easier to catch the fabric in the understitch correctly if you do not trim it. If your seam allowance is more than 1/4” you should definitely trim it on any curved seams though!
It's because "home sewing" and "professional sewing" do things differently. It sounds like you're talking about "grading" the seam allowance (where you trim one side shorter than the other). "Grading" seam allowances and clipping curves are mostly home sewing techniques. Professional patterns would just use a narrow seam allowance (like 1/8" to 1/4") for curves like this. A narrow seam is easier, plus it lays flatter and makes a nicer curve (no "points" where the clips are) and you don't get the "notches" leaving visible impressions on the shell fabric when it's pressed.
(I should say, professional patterns might need clipping in some places, but it's one of many "techniques" home sewing patterns rely on excessively to make up for bad engineering.)
Nice tip. I never thought of this one.
Why didn’t you stay stitch that neckline before sewing to the lining?
She has 781 subs and, it's a video about understiching not stay stiching. Give her a break!
Because there's no need to stay stitch it. The seam that attaches the facing to the shell stabilizes at exactly the same way stay stitching would.
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I can barely hear you with my sound turned up all the way.
Thank you for your feedback! I am still learning this whole camera/filming thing 😅
Please speak clear, it sounds like if you were bumbling. Cannot understand you well.
I was born missing hearing bones in both ears. Sadly i am unable to listen while watching recorded in a very queit tone. Beautiful voice however. Thank you for revving such a tricky technique
You can turn on the closed captions
Couldn't hear you hardly at all
Well, turn up the volume! Bless your heart.