WORST Product Ever, Oil Based Stain! Never Oil a Wood Fence
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 16. 08. 2019
- Never use oil based stains again. In this video I'll show you how to stain a wooden fence using an airless sprayer and a brush. With this method you'll finish the job faster and easier than with a brush or roller alone.
We're going for a white, weathered wood finish that will look fantastic and stand the test of time. With this project, we used an oil based stain and ended up regretting it before job was done. I'll talk about oil based vs water based products, and the major headaches that you can run into.
đ TOOLS USED IN VIDEOâ
Hose Whip: t.ly/bb0zR
Hyde Stir Whip: t.ly/587q1
Game Changing Tools: t.ly/kszs
Airless sprayer equipment: t.ly/RnsC
Masking tools & products: paintlifesupply.com
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Paint Life Apparel: t.ly/GBYj
Music: credit bensound.com/royalty-free-music
đABOUT CHRIS đ
I started The Idaho Painter CZcams channel as a way to help out others who were trying to paint themselves. I have a passion for painting and helping other people to fall in love with painting. My primary focus is to educate, empower, and equip painters word wide. Hope you enjoy our channel.
đDue to factors beyond the control of The Idaho Painter (or Chris Berry and the Paint Life crew), We cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. The Idaho Painter and Paint Life assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. The Idaho Painter recommends safe practices when working on any structure and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of The Idaho Painter, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from use or improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not The Idaho Painter.
Joshua 1:9 - Jak na to + styl
Next time I will use Woodscapes
Use water based super deck a lot better imo
@@PapABeerz6969 yeah super deck water base is great just its very watery vs the woodscapes which is great for walls imo
Woodscapes is more of a coating though, superdeck is an awesome product. Trick we use for shadow box fences is a drop taped to 2 roller poles on the opposite side of the fence so as to catch the overspray from getting airborne.
Woodscapes is good if you want to redo it in 2 years. worst product on the market. Iâve seen it fail every time it has been used. I will never use it on any of my jobs.
@@joelturpinpaint not my. Jobs they last 10 years.
I'm going to agree with many people here and say i have NEVER seen a water stain that is anywhere close to the quality of oil in terms of durability, penetration, and finish
Agree. He seems to be more focused on the application not the wood, itâs typical of contractors who only care about how fast they can do a job.
More maintenance than water
anyone with a brain and ANY experience at all Knows OIL IS KING when it comes to stain. The title of this video OMG......
@@WhiskeyTangoFoxtraught he is more focused on liability as he said.
AMEN. Oil for sure
I built a redwood wheelchair ramp and replaced a gate for a customer.
I used water base stain/sealer on the gate and I used oil on the ramp and deck. The water based product faded out and the gate started to get gray within two years. But the ramp and deck still look good. Itâs been about 5 years and the deck still looks good. I went back and re did the gate in oil for the customer.
Exterior treated lumber = oil all the way, all the time!
Damn right
ThAts rite
if you don't want your wood to dry and crack like most wood does always use oil based stain as it will soak into the lumber and actually act as a moisturizer keeping the wood supple and preserved.
Chris, I love your videos and the information you provide. Before you write off oil based stains I suggest you do a video with Caleb from Stain and Seal Experts. The technique between water based and oil based are completely different.
Chris you have taken the time out to share useful tips and tricks and for that I appreciate your channel so much. Keep grinding and sharing with us all!!
We've come a long way. My Granddad used to mix creosote with his old engine oil to put on the fence!
yes and that will cost you 5 bucks to hire this guy will cost you thousand ,
we come a long way to be easily fooled
Hi Chris, great video again. Your videos are very professional. Keep up the great work
I've been told the oil based stain soaks into the wood more, good for 1st coats, and future coats could then be latex. But, better products seem to come out all the time. And I agree, latex is much better to work with. Also, sometimes I hang a plastic over the back side to catch overspray. Great videos, and good family help!
Idk if you would find any coatings manufacturer that would recommend a latex over oil, sounds like bad news
Beautiful piece of art thanks a lot for sharing
You can just drape a drop sheet over the back of the fence and nail it at the top. Stops overspray getting through the gaps.
I'm guessing since you said this was an experiment that this is your own fence? I've noticed in some of your older videos when you were experimenting it was at your own cost and the risk was your own. I respect that. Good ethics
Thereâs loads of overspray with those nozzles. You can see it as you spray. Any breeze let alone a wind, will carry any stain onto windows or other nearby surfaces.
Thanks for another free video..your the best in the businessđđ
Hi Chris. Thanks for the video bud. I try to avoid water based stains if i can. Just did a fence in oil based stain 3 weeks ago. Same technique that you demonstrate here. Far superior
I have a question for you whatâs a good tip for my gun for staining furnitureI have a magnum 5X
Water based stain doesn't last long, re-staining requires a lot of prep and it peels. Olympic was recommended for my cedar spa, by the spa manufacturer. All prep work and application was done per directions and it only lasted a year before it starting peeling. It took me over a week with a palm sander to sand the crap off the wood before applying an oil based stain. Oh, and I noticed the spa manufacturer no longer recommends the Olympic stain.. Since I couldn't find oil based in my state at the time, I was able to order it from the spa manufacturer and had it shipped to me. (They now recommend Superdeck.) My next stain job will be piece of cake because the prep work will be just cleaning the cedar surface and letting it dry before staining.
Is your opinion on oil based the same for interior gloss, because I have yet to find a water based gloss/undercoat with the opacity or finish of oil based.
Hi, would appreciate some advice here. Trying to decide what to use on a brand new cedar tongue and groove soffit above my porch. It's covered and out of the element but want something that will preserve the natural wood color for as long as possible. Thought about cabot wood toned stain + sealer but not sure if I like the candy coating it seams to leave on it (seems like it would peel up?), I've used penofin blue label on fence and porch for years and it is great but darkens over time (not sure if it would do that on a soffit that is out of the sun/elements?), thinking maybe the red label penofin would look good? Looked into REady seal but not sure as some of the reviews make it sound like it doesn't hold up well? then there is the question of do I pretreat the wood as it has a mill grain finish on it. I don't know if just a very light sanding with like a 80 grit paper would suffice or if I need to do a pretreatment like the FIRST STEP PREP that penofin recommends? It scares me to have to wet down a brand new soffit area that is already installed overhead, then I have to let it dry and moisture could get trapped behind it? Am I overthinking this? HELP appreciated ;) Running out of time, weather is changing.
Thank you for the tips, informative
You got the best videos an good advise keep up the good work
Thank you! For sharing and watchingđ€
At LykeNew Power Wash we do our best to stay away from all semi-transparent stains. They are twice the labor to apply right and do not last as long. However the customer is always number one and gets to choose. On my Facebook page you can see a before and after of a surface wash and strip we did on over 500 ft of already stained semi-transparent stain that was applied the year before wrong. Then the after pics with it applied correctly. We use the same method but different equipment. We like to use a 12 volt diaphragm pump no smaller then 1.8 gpm at 60 psi then back brush in using a special micro fiber pad that allows us to push a lot more stain in the wood. One pad can last us well over 300 ft of ruff cedar 6 ft high. Check it out for yourself. Idaho painter keep it Rockin and thanks for all you do.
Great advice here especially about the back brushing and laying heavy. I just got done restaining my fence. Used the Graco Ultramax Cordless with a FF514 tip. Worked pretty well minus having to fill the cup a billion times. Glad i chose water based after watching this video. Tip for others would be that you will use ALOT of stain. I had never stained before and only bought two gallons. Ended up using 12 and blew my budget out of the water. Lesson learned.
Yeah, itâs faster and easier, but water based stain will start peeling off ina couple of years if you live in a extremely hot and cold weather location.
Iâve learned a lot from your videos but in my experience, no water based stain is as good as a good oil based stain like Ready Seal or TWP. Stain should soak into the wood and not leave a âcoatingâ which peels or flat out fails. Spraying is troublesome with oils but it definitely lasts longer and is easier to reapply in a 2-3 years.
As a pro painter I could not agree more. Oil penetrates much more and actually rehydrates and reconditions the wood. Water based stain is like watery paint that relies in pigment ( which peels in time) and makes the wood dry out in time . Trees have oil resins in them not water. Water based is easier and less toxic to apply which are the only pros in my opinion.
He must be sponsored by a latex company?? Oil all day long.
@@Eastcentralstainingco i tend to agree with you there is no way if you ever stripped an water base stain you would want to apply water base stain to anything
Ready seal? Its fades away within 6 months!!
â@@jonc2914ive had great results with the light oak from ready seal. Just ordered my 6th 5 gallon can for my fences and decks. For newer and older woods treated and cedar, ease of use with this product is a win in my book.
Great video! One problem I have had when staining fences is that when using a semi-transparent stain, it can be very tempting to over apply product. Watch out for that, especially with lighter tints.
Thanks Chris! Much love from Tampa
Chris is the man! I followed all his advice and my kitchen cabinets look great. I made the mistake not to use aqua coat but fortunately it can be applied to painted surface. Problem solved.
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Great video!đđ» me myself would back roll and brush especially on rough sawed. Iâd use a pole and a 3/4 â nap probably use a bigger tip 517 sometimes Iâve even turned the tip around to spray more paint in certain areas . Keep a bucket with a grid n a lil bit of paint in it and a brush for tight areas. You can do miles of fence
I hear you on the oil overspray. This year I oil sprayed a multi-level deck. The oil overspray fogged and lifted to the next property, but at a distance. Those neighbors were glad when I was done. Spraying gave me speed but I would not do it again. Not a big fan of spraying for this reason and many others.
Dan Cagle And I was one of the neighbors and still sick for weeks
@@SueT55 đ„Č it wasn't radioactive isotopes, you must've been putting your face up to the fence with your mouth open...weeks?
I used an oil based stain for my fence by sheer dumb luck about 12-13 years ago. It may have faded slightly, but it still looks really good. I can't imagine an water based product holding up this well.
Same, for me it was duck back oil stain.
It won't, not even close.
Great video and audioâŠ.I have learned so muchâŠ.Question: after watching this video I think I will be using a water based stainâŠI unfortunately purchased a couple gallons of oil based sikkens ( PPQ ) 009 dark oak. What brand of water base product would you recommend that is equivalent to sikkens. ThanksâŠRalph. PS..r stain brushes different then inside home brushes.
Good job đ
Stain and Seal Experts has the best stains in the universe. Never drips, peels and is self leveling with no brush marks.
Hows the dex pants? Wanted to buy some but arent available in toronto area and 60 or so a pop. Think theyre worth it?
Ive sprayed fences and i realised it was easier just to brush the entire fence with a lager brush.
Lol! You're funny!
The cleaning sucks ass and why would anyone run oil base product through their sprayer.
@@isaacalvarez534 because oil based is best for outdoor wood fencing.
Because You NEVER have to clean out oil paint in a sprayer, just leave it in tube
Thanks for the great videos! I have a new rough cut shadowbox cedar fence that has had plenty of time to dry. Rain has caused dirt to spatter on the bottom of the fence in some areas. Should I use a pressure washer or a garden hose to remove the spattering? What brands do you recommend (ie: Thompon's, Sherwin-Williams)? Thank you.
If you have cedar fencer.. YOU MUST USE OIL BASED STAIN!!
If you get dirt on the lower part of the fence because of the rain. Put some gravel like 10 inches thick for drainage.
Good looking job. I like using oil base products in some situations. Not fences. I like using it on decks. But, most of all, of course a different situation, is interior trim. Nothing looks better than oil base paint in a eggshell sheen on interior trim work.
Great Job, Great Video
Chris I love re-watching your videos before and after doing projects to keep checking my work. For a Graco tip, and Austrailian outdoor semi-transparent stain, I used a 213. at 2000psi. This did not go well. I feel like I should have dropped to 211 or 209 which is not rated for semi-transparent. The HEA tips for Titan, Im not sure they have a comparison for Graco. Please let me know if they do. I would do titan all over again and stick with stuff I can buy through you. Thanks for all your work meanwhile. Please let me know with the tip and psi. I had a brass regulator and 5000psi oil gauge at the gun. Can I drop to 1000 psi with that 213 or 211 tip? I feel like we used way too much material. On the oil vs water based, I dont like spraying the oil and it's mess / cleanup issues. What do you suggest for a water product in this case, if you were not testing the new oil stuff? Thanks!
Your videos make me happy
What Super Deck color and product did you use in this video?
Attach the brush to a jaw tool and extension poll. Back saver !
can i switch and use a water base stain the next time i paint my fence that i previously used a oil base stain?
Can you clear coat (clear paint) a fence instead of paint? Thanks
Penofin Rosewood oil stain, if you can afford it. Why even use very expensive cedar if you're essentially going to paint it gray?
Thought the same thing, what an idiotic choice. Ugly color for any wood fence
Cedar and redwood are used primarily because they are rot resistant
Hey Chris would you recommend 440 to waterseal on deck
If you were painting a fence with a neighbouring house close by, say only 5 or 6 feet or so, is there a real risk of overspray and getting some unwanted product onto that house. Especially if you say weâre painting the fence black. How best would you mitigate that scenario?
hey buddy great video,i have a re-paint to do the house is dark brown cedar boards client wants a light cedar look what product would you recommend?
Solid color waterbased Superdeck is your best shot as long as the wood is receptive to stain. Otherwise....prime and paints all you got.
Great video! How concerned are you about applying stain to the underside of the slats? Obviously you can spray the tops of the slats which is where water will pool anyway.
The fence looked very good Chris.
Bakers Gray Away Wood Seal is one of the best stains Made in Plano Texas
Must try
SO...I have a question about all this, hopefully you'll get back to me sooner that later. I need to spray my backyard fence with Austrian lumber oil stain. I have about 1,000 foot of fence that I need to treat. I haven't purchased my spray gun yet and nor do I have a compressor. What would you recommend for this type of job? Thanks for reaching out! Any insight you might have is going to be greatly appreciated.
Look up Ready Seal stain. No brush needed.
BTW, what is a polyurethanized coating?
I love what you do, appreciate your experience, and your work is phenomenal... that being said, your video title (and I assume your stance against oil products) is counter to chemistry. Wood is naturally accepting to oil, because the wood naturally contains oil that keeps it healthy. Water on the other hand does feed trees when they are alive, but only helps them rot when they dead. Oil + wood = a good relationship & water + wood = a bad relationship... In the short term the outcome may be quite beautiful from using a water-based product, but the maintenance will be severe over time. On the other hand, using an oil-based product will have to be maintained on a schedule, but the lasting effects will be wood that will last a lifetime +... I also saw that you used a Sherwin product (SuperDeck), which is full of petroleum distillates and dryers unlike something like ABRâs X-100 which is primarily linseed (flax) oil. Using a natural plant based oil on a schedule will provide the longest lasting health to wood... I understand where you are coming from, but I disagree based on the science of the matter... Keep doing what you do!
I'm sold! lol How about just tell me what you think is the best product for an old fence and a deck that has peeling solid. That's all. Just tell me a product and that'll be it. 75 hours of reading conflicting shit is driving me mad.
I can only assume he meant OIL, as in maybe an exterior penetrating oil? Of which may or not be true, as it ALL comes down to "product and project pairing."
I have to say, the assumption or rationale that oil based is better than wb for dead wood is rather a carelessly broad statement. As a quick example wb coatings allow water vapors to permeate them (a good thing in some instances), take for instance the moisture accumulation trapped in wall cavities of homes in areas with strong winters. Usually caused by humidifiers running nonstop all winter long to combat the dry air from forced air hvac,. Water born coatings on the exterior will, and do allow the moisture to permeate them and leave. As we know oil in times dries hard and brittle, cracks and eventually de laminates.
Not to mention there are fair numbers of oil based products that contain FOOD FOR MOLD AND MILDEW, see the very involved preparatory bleaching instructions for Sikkens' application.
True briefing, Naturally oil have protective elements not only save his surface , after penitration,wood will strong with life addition of it's and protect from water and humidity a long long time.
@@MrEyesof9 You are comparing oil base stains to the characteristics of oil based paints. they are not the same thing. A house respires through the walls. A fence stain does not. Oil based paints are relative vapor barriers. Stains are not.
Going to do an oil stain (because I have 20 gallons that I go on sale). Do I need to put a sealer on after the oil based stain and if so which kind to use? Same process?
no. The product is already a sealer.
Doing things fast rarely yields better results than doing things slowly and thoroughly
I stained a new cedar picket fence I built w a Titan FlexSpray a few years ago (Cabot Solid Stain Acrylic). I used a lot of your tips to do it and --> it came out great. I'm getting ready to do another fence project and would like to ask if an airless Titan be a lot easier? Thanks !
A solid hide acrylic "stain" is basically a watered down paint. Most people installing new fencing want to see the grain of the wood, not just the texture.
In Texas Ready Seal a solvent based stain is the go to product. No back brushing required.
What color was this? Is there a comparable water based stain this color?
Chris try using a (Rough Rider) square brush. It will accept an extension stick. You can really get the material into the grain when back brushing.
There wasn't a film of oil on the pool next door?
Painted a 3 member post and rail years ago. Over 300m...with burnt oil. Used diesel from tractor. It's as black as night and looks fabulous .
I brushed it on
Sweet
I bet it smells cool and would burn nicely too. Lol.
I do that with fence post bottoms
Oil stain is the way to go when you want to protect woodwork like fences benches and decks from the elements. It's a delicate process meaning you have to be extra extra careful with oil and cleaning sucks big time. Water base products are good but will not last as long.
I always use old engine oil mixed with diesel for my fences. Looks good, is cheap and lasts for a long time.
Dang
Goodmorning sir. Is it possible to stain with a solid water base over a fence once stained with oil base.
Yes
I sprayed oil base stains on houses and fences for 30 years. it takes practice if you want to know how let me know
I've done it for 40 years - what advice do you have that the "paint life" man didn't teach us ???
Lucc 701 what brand would you use to paint a bare fence? Instead of stain would paint help make the fence last longer. Thanks.
Would I have to use a brush to keep it from going to the other side of the fence? Whatâs the best way to paint just one side?
@@kayBTRkayBTR anything that coats works but will eventually peel whereas stains and oil-based products will soak into the said surface as long as you take the time to make all even while keeping a wet edge it will last longer than a coating.
@@mccartneystuart What brand and type from that brand would you suggest? I've had a fence installed that 476 linear feet. That's almost a thousand linear feet (6000 sqft) of staining front and back. I am overwhelmed with what to do right now. Jokingly, what I need is a Daniel LaRusso in exchange for learning to play guitar... No side - side. Up, down! Look foward to your response Lucc.
Any advice to a handyman staining a common redwood fence with dark walnut to match the color of pressure treated wood?
Have you paint store color match it
How soon is okay to stain after installing a new fence?
I used to stain but have it away as the hot westher just dries it out. I paint now with high uv stabilized water based paint. When i lived in the UK we'd treat wood fencing with creosote every 2 to 3 years. It was stiff but the stink of tar was overbearing
They banned it ive heard now.
Preserver and decking oil spray well out my Wagner HVLP.
I would use Expert Stain & Seal by stain & Seal Experts it's oil that performs
Longevity and looks are two different things. Oil base equals longer life. No contest. Staining for looks can be costly and difficult, especially if you are looking for a uniform look. And in order to maintain nice looks, you will have more maintenance or reapplication than just staining for longevity with oil base.
Having been in the game since the Seventies Yes oil is the way to go .Spent years around Tahoe doing cabins and deck's.Nothing better.
What about the over spray on the other side
I usually have someone hold a drop cloth on the other side. Wrap a roller pole in 1 end of the drop.
Great tips for the home owner and average painter. My only question respectfully is. What's on the other side of the fence? Looks like concrete and a pool. Wouldn't it be good to plastic the other side for over spray??
What about the floor it is cover in stain u neeto spray the rest of the stones to match!be clean and safe always use protection! Good practice for your new apprentice too!
Im curious how many years between the next application..?
Awesome just đ
Only Hammerite you should use ! Great video!
I penofin rose oil based, chemists formulated out of California..smells nice too, used hog haired large brush, with small roller..fast
You should have the person that comes in behind you try a long bristled push broom to back brush faster
The oil stain would work a lot better if you mix it good before you start. Oil lays on the bottom especially oil based stain, it needs to be mixed periodically as you go along!
Which paint or stain is best to use on wood is the same as what type of horse a trainer would use to run in a particular horse race. Oils are excellent at penetrating timbers, while latex or acrylic stains are classed by trade painters as pretty surface sitters. Each have their good & bad points depending on climate/country. Most translucent water based stains have a short life span in harsh sunlight conditions whilst the so called solid opaque water based stains have excellent expansion & contraction qualities, blocking out UV rays.
Here in the north east many oil product are prone to mildew growth. The latex products are much better in that regard. I think the environmental regs have made the oil products not as good as they used to be. Arborcoat by Benjamin Moore is a great exterior stain that covers well and doesnât grow mildew.
Thanks đđșđž
Iâm very confused from this video, are you only against oil based stain because you had to rake some rocks out of the way so you didnât get over spray on them??? đ€·ââïž
He should have named the video "Don't spray oil stain"
Wow, great video. One question about oil-based versus Water: my understanding is that oil-based doesnât last as long, but you can recoat an oil based stain without any prep work. Has that been your experience?
Everyone already knows how to paint the fence thanks to Mr. Miyagi and the karate kid. Good video I appreciate the knowledge.
I have learnt a lot from your videos regarding spraying but this approach wasn't a professional one.
I did loads of spraying in the last 2 years and figured out:
Airless for water based or 2 pack;
Hvlp for oil based stain or 2 pack.
With the oil based stain on bare wood: 1 coat of base coat, 2-3 days of curing time, sanding, and 2 coats of top coat with 3 days of curing inbetween. Have you tried Sadolin?
The first 2 coats thinned with white spirit 10-20% depending on wood dryness.
I am a professional and got professional results that worked for me- always learning and trying different products!
@Coolride17 Any chance for a pole sander? It does not need to be a piano finish, just make a bit smooth the raised wood grain. Different standards for all of us. A proper masonry roller would be as quick as setting up the sprayer, cleaning it and back brushing. Last time I used a 9 inch Wooster Pro do, half inch nap, 4 gallons in 2 hours, up to 20 feet height on wood panel. BTW I am not happy with the water based stain, in Ireland doesn't lasts as long as oil based, after 2-3 years it starts to crack and blister. That's my own experience
Thanks Chris I've used the woodscapes before but, I still like the Arborcoat. I've tested it for 4 years on railroad ties with zero prep and no problems. Have you ever used this product? Thanks for sharing with us all.
Yes to Ben Moore Arborcoat, it's all I use on outdoor projects. I apply first coat with oil so that stain behaves with tannins in cedar - subsequent coats years later are water-based.
I second arborcoat, been on my screened porch for 10+ years and it looks good still. This is in virginia with all sorts of weather.
I envy you Chris awesome seeing you and your daughter working together I hope mine can work with me one day she is only 8 I can only imagine y'all rock.
Nice video however we use only WOOD DEFENDER oil based stain it covers in 1 coat and never needs back brushing
Oil overspray definitely does lift and drift.
Started our fence and the wind picked up.
I had to immediately stop and go wash my wife's SUV... then move it 2 blocks away.
hahaha
Moldex respirator. Good choice
I put boiled linseed oil on everything I have that's made of wood and outdoors.
Noticed you did not mask off the surrounding gravel and grass. Even though there is low overspray I would recommend masking under the fence as well as laying plywood or something on opposite side of fence to prevent overspray on others side.
What would you recommend to get rid of the stain on a fence?
Pressure wash with rotating nozzle
i totally agree, i cannot stand oil stain like superdeck. one other risk is the fact that it can spontaneously combust. it travels sooo far, iâm totally cautious about over spraying cars too
Oil stain is a far better product than water-based product, they are junk.... and anybody that knows anything about anything knows this. they do not spontaneously combust.
@@williamrose7818 the rags will combust if saturated and not discarded properly. twp stain is good but i prefer using arbor coat
Iâve been doing stuff like this since I was 16 years old never once have I had anything from oil spontaneously combust. I currently have rags soaked in paint thinner drying out in a Bucket from the oil stain I just did on my fence. I have one bucket filled with paint thinner that I used to clean everything and another bucket filled with the soaked rags... Iâm sure it could happen under perfect circumstances but I have never had it occur
@@williamrose7818 i did a stain job with the old cabot oil stain, i had paper masking in a contractor bag that had stain on it. it ignited and burned my sheds down
So if you really hate oil base stains on fences, why are you using oil base in this video?
I got more time than money too brush on. Lol
What about the neighbors yard? Wouldn't you be blowing a lot of oil based overspray