Hey G, to funny!!! I just bought a H.F. Accu-Link adjustable link v belt for my mill. And I was wondering how to install it on my machine so of course I went looking for information on CZcams. When I found another great video from Ghostses!!! After watching this video I sure hope that this new H.F. link v belt will work on my mill!!! Kind of surprised that you didn't tell me about this video when we were talking about it on the other Atlas horizontal mill videos? Well no matter what at least I found this video, now I can take it apart and adjust it as needed. Thanks G!!!
I've used the HF green belts on my table saw, jointer and bandsaw. I modified the last two machines to use the motor weight for tension. I'm really happy with the results - much lower vibration
Thanks good video on the link belts , there was one comment about a guy not realizing this type of belt are good for a permanent belt that he always thought od them as emergency belts i think that was the case years ago as a similar one was marketed for the auto and marine industries over time rubber and flexible plastics have really come a long way and are much stronger and reliable my Dad use to give me the. Old ones to keep in my tool boxes and he always said to keep it this would get me home in a pinch the only time a belt went. When i was present i was riding in a freinds air cooled VW and we needed the Altenator and fan To get us home that night so we bought panty hose and tied it onto the pulleys ! It made it 4 hours to get us home BTW it was a pair of Leggs from a 7 eleven that we pushed the Dune Buggy to and tied them on in the parking lot somewhere around Daytona Florida We laughed about that one for years as the clerk had no idea why 2 guys would buy panty hose at 10 pm And start high. Fiving in the Parking lot before they drove off into the night the simplicity. Of a VW Beetle motor was awesome that particular one was a 1958 Beetle that had only 36 horse power I believe the car was slow but fun to ride in as it was a Myers Dune Buggy built in the 60s bt my buddies Dad. Who at one time had a Myers Manx distributorship at his Marina so this car had all the available options. From that era which weren't. Very many truthfully !
I remember those emergency belt too Craig. I've been using these belts for years and never had a problem- and have yet to need to change one out. Funny story on the Leggs!! lol. Take care, G.
Thanks! Very helpful video to orient to the use and adjustment of link belts! The logic behind marking the belt every 10 links is this: if the ONLY thing you ever have to count links for is to strictly use the "remove 1 link every 24" rule-of-thumb, then it might make sense to mark it every 12 links. However, there are a number of other reasons for counting links in general. You might have automated machines counting links all along the production line - reeling material on and off spools, cutting pre-set lengths to make loops, etc. You may have a person doing a similar function on a smaller scale, having to count off in their head. You may have learned, through long experience in your own factory, for your machines, you use a slightly different tensioning algorithm, maybe removing one link for every 22 or 23 or 25 links of length. In all of these other functions, you aren't counting sections of 24 links specifically, you are just *counting total links*, and both in human brains and machines, that makes more sense to do in increments of 10. For example, if I have a task to to manually unspool a reel and separate 20 segments of 154 links and another 20 segments of 225 links, I'm going to be happier having it marked by 10's than I would if it was marked by 12's. (To computer dorks, yes, machines probably don't care, and you could even argue that machines count better by 16's anyway, but that's a separate argument, lol!)
To add on to the last comment... Yes pulley size and shaft center distance was definitely the issue. Mechanical advantage comes in handy when available. I can see your point now. If you use any 3V or 5V wedge belts on anything I highly recommend you try out Fenner's new product that we launched in September. SuperTLink. Previously we did not have an option for 3V and 5V. We redesigned our metric belt to fit in these high wedges.
That would explain the trouble Chase. You said "we" three times in your remaining comments regarding other products. I'm I correct in assuming you work for Fenner? G.
Arrow is the drive direction. And the 10 count really helps when replacing belts. I've replaced thousands of these on the line I worked on. I knew we needed 37 links so four arrows remove 3 links done. Add yes aluminum pulleys can get grooved quickly but the proper v groove pulley really seats nicely.
This is the first time I've come across this post. Good information with regard to proper length and tension. I personally have the HF Accu-link belt on my band saw and I love it. I have also recently replaced the belts on a Jet drill press, which has 1/2" sheaves. Out of curiosity I did a web search and found both 3/8 and 5/8 Accu-link belts available on Amazon in addition to the 1/2". Digging deeper I found that the Accu-link product is manufactured by Jason Industrial, Inc. Since I bought this at HF I always assumed it was a Chinese knock-off. HF still only offers the 1/2". Just thought I'd let everyone know.
+Greg Warren Thanks Greg! Glad to hear you like the Accu-link! Great findings! I also would've assumed it was a knock-off. I'll need to look into them and compare the costs. Sounds like they work well, so if I can save a buck or two- I might as well. Thanks for the info! Take care, G.
I'm a BIG fan of adjustable link v-belts, they are very tough and last a long time. I have a HF wood lathe that would eat the v-belts that came with it so I thought I would try an adjustable link belt (bought at local industrial supply, it is red so probably Fenner) and haven't had the least bit of trouble after MANY hours of wood turning. I now have a zero-turn mower that is also trying to chew up belts despite all the deck alignment I have done so I am turning to HF green adjustable link belts to try. I am confident that when mowing season rolls around again that this will hold up much better than the rubber v-belt. Here's my recommendation: If you have an ordinary machine, if v-belt works fine, then buy a conventional rubber v-belt, it's cheaper. BUT if you have a tough application or one that's hard to get to to mount a regular v-belt, I highly recommend going with an adjustable link belt, they are much tougher and will last MUCH longer.
As am I Richard! They can hurt a bit to purchase up-front over a standard belt, but after realizing their worth and longevity it makes sense. I also like the fact you don't have to get the exact length like a standard belt since they're adjustable. I could go on for ages, but you already know their value. Yes, I would say yours is a Fenner since it's red. I've been meaning to get a HF belt to review but still don't have anything else that requires/needs a 1/2" belt. I've heard good things about them though. I'm pretty sure they're made by Jason Industrial. After you get some time on the HF belt, feedback if you can think about it. Good luck, G.
Hey G, thanks for this info. I have the HF belt on my jointer and honestly I had no idea what I was doing when I put it on so I need to go and make sure I did it all properly now :). I've thought about replacing my drill press belts as well. Where did you purchase them?
No problem Matt. I would guess the HF belt would be the same procedure for adjustment. What do you think about the HF belt? I forgot they sold the 1/2 belt or would have tried one out on my jointer. I bought the 3/8 belt for my drill press off of ebay in 2009. It looks like the seller is still selling them. He sells 4' lengths as well as 1' lengths if you need more than 4'. It was a smooth transaction and they arrived quickly. www.ebay.com/usr/ohioblademan Hope this helps, G.
Really appreciate you taking the time to send a direct link, I'm gonna pick this up for my DP. The HF belt has done well as far as I can tell but to be 100% honest I just kind of set it and forgot it after so I should probably check on it. I plan on doing a full recalibration of my jointer when the weather gets a bit warmer as I never really set it up right in the first place so that will be one of the things I check out now that I know what to look for.
Matt Przybylski No problem Matt. Good info on the HF belt. I'll be keeping them in mind if/when I run into another machine that uses a 1/2 belt. I would check it out when the weather changes. Good luck dialing in your machine, G.
I have some machines that have to be disassembled to remove the belts. This would be great for them. In general it's a good product to keep around because you can make any size belt that your heart desires. I didn't know that HF sold a similar product. Thanks!
I agree, Chip. HF does sell the 1/2" belt. I've had some comments reporting they work great. If you have any other sizes, you will probably have to use the Fenner brand. Good luck, G.
Thanks, there is a bearing dealer near me that handles Fenner Belts. I just haven't committed to buying any yet. I'm glad you explained about removing 1 link out of every 24 when making a new belt. That will help save a lot of trial and error.
i hope they sell them at the store and not just online. i got nothin to do tommarow and im in the process of a dc conversion on my band saw, new tires and just a general go through, fuck it ill go down and get one to try
Question about your drill press installation - mine has a similar pulley arrangement, but the smallest pulley diameter is 1-3/4". Fenner specifies a minimum pulley diameter for the 3/8" belt as 2". Do you have any problems with squealing or binding when running on those little pulleys? I've wanted to put Fenner on my press for 22 years but didn't know until now they had started making it in 3/8". I looked for it for years with no luck. Thanks much.
Mike, I took a look at my press and the smallest step on mine is 1 7/8". Although I usually don't use that step- the belt runs just fine on mine, no squeal, etc. Your step is a bit smaller, but might work just fine. It it were a problem, perhaps you can avoid using it and select another range. I believe Fenner calls the 3/8" belt a 3L- for reference. If you install some on yours, let me know how it works out. It might help others out as well. My press was a new machine after installing them. Good luck, G.
I will indeed. Years ago I used the 1/2" on a contractor table saw I had, but it didn't seem to do anything but make it noisier. But there's enough vibration in my drill press that it's worth taking a shot. Thanks again.
That's cool Mike! That surprises me. My TS was the first tool I used one on, and it was day and night over a standard V belt. The link belts are directional, so they must be installed correctly. If they're not, they can make things worse. Most of my machine tools have them now- and each has benefited greatly from them, metal lathes, TS, milling machine, jointer, drill press, and air compressor. My horizontal bandsaw, and vertical wood/metal bandsaw are the last on my list. I've been waiting for them to get to the point they need a new belt. Let me know! G.
I've often wondered if I had it on backward, unfortunately that saw was long ago replaced by a Unisaw so I can't verify the theory. The Unisaw has no such issues. 😉👍 That was way back in the Fenner-Mannheim days and I don't remember them specifying that they were directional. That was long before things like CZcams, so that level of minutiae was much harder to nail down. At that time the only way I even knew of the link belt was because of Woodcraft selling those contractor saw "upgrade kits" which contained two (nice) machined pulleys and a length of 1/2" belt. I don't recall the instructions mentioning a proper direction but I've always wondered if that was the issue.
You may very well have had it running backwards Mike. The Uni was a welcomed upgrade I'm sure. They're so robust, even a set in a V-belt might have no effect on that machine. Agreed, CZcams/the web has made everything easier. I too learned of them through Woodcraft. That's where my TS belt and machined pulleys came from- the "kit". I don't believe they offer them any longer. I too don't recall if they mentioned direction, or if I just noticed the arrows on the belt. Believe it or not, I'm still running the same belt on my TS with the kit- some 12 or so yrs. later. Still works like day one! G.
First of all, thanks for pitching the product. It really is a solution provider. But I wouldn't consider it hard to roll on at the proper tension. I do it every day on countless pieces of equipment in all kinds of industries. Maybe that's why I think it is easier, because I do it all the time. However, if my 8 year old daughter has no trouble rolling these on a multiple groove sheave at the proper tension I don't see it being "hard pressed" for a maintenance man to get it on. The belt doesn't stretch when you put your foot on it... The tabs seat in place. That is where the initial elongation comes from. All in all... The Fenner Drives PowerTwistPlus link belt beats the socks off a rubber belt in every way.
No problem Chase! I agree, they're a great product and literally beat standard belts like nobody's business. I've been running them for years and won't do without them. This is the first time I installed one on a machine that didn't have a jack shaft with a tension adjustment, or in the case of my TS the motor weight provides the tension. I know I'm no weakling and am certainly stronger than an 8 year old- I hope...lol. I'm not sure why I had the issue. Perhaps maybe the small diameter of the pulleys and shaft distance had something to do with it?- who knows. I agree, the belt doesn't stretch but the tabs seat like you say. I misspoke in the clip. Take care man and good luck, G.
I understand that the link style vbelt has some great qualities but in most cases I'm not sure I could talk myself into buying a $20ish belt when I can run down to the auto store of your choice and get a standard vbelt for around 5 dollars.
I can understand that Jacob! I was converted after installing the first one on my table saw. When my other machines belts would take on a set, or need to be replaced- I started upgrading them as well. It really is something that needs to be experienced first hand- the before and after. They may not be for everyone, or even required, but for me- I'll never use standard belts again unless I have to. Good luck, G.
The HF belt is wider than the Fenner. It's really a 9/16. It rides too high out of a 1/2" pulley. They are trying to make a belt that will function in both 1/2" and 5/8" pulleys. The Fenner on Ebay 29.99 shipped free. HF belt 26.99 plus shipping. Why not reward the American company with they produce both a more accurate and lower cost delivered part? I've actually found the Fenner for something like $22 before. Removed the HF from my Atlas Lathe. It just didn't fit correctly. Paul Hopkins below mentions the HF may be a foot longer, that may be true. I'll have to check my sleeves.
Mike West There is now speculation that it is a Jason Industrial. It's a 5L size which is almost 1/16" too wide. The package does not say Made In USA anywhere which is the argument against the Jason Industrial speculation. It's Harbor Freight trying to have one part number that appears to fit a wide variety of applications. However, it's too wide for most home workshop tools. It may work but it won't have as much surface area engaging with the sides of the sheave (pulley). I don't remember the details of the video above as that was some time ago for me. I kind of lean away from trying to justify cheapness and towards finding the right answer. I'd rather work a few minutes longer for the dough to get the right thing. The Fenner's are affordable and fit absolutely properly. I've only used the HF and the Fenner in my shop. Never had a package marked Jason Industrial to try out.
The accu links i got from hb were made in America by jason industrial. I can comment on tge exact size but i do remember them riding high in the pulleys. Cheers
I have only played with link belts once, ingenious design in many ways. I would say you would have to adjust your shoelaces a few times untill everything is comfortable with new shoes. I'm just guessing here but the "ten" mark might be something to do with the manufacturing process, stamped out of the sheet in ten with a dot on the last row, or to help machine counting. I don't mind tens, you count the tens then so many links. Or maybe they are foot markers to un splice the at the factory and not for the consumer. Dunno but interesting non the least.
You could be right. They say to use them to count off the links, but why mark 10 was the mystery to me. Either way, they do work great once installed. Thanks, G.
Can the link belts be used to replace a flat belt (on a 9" South Bend, model A, underhung with a cone pulley, for instance)? I'm currently using a leather belt with alligator lacing, but I'm tired of the leather constantly stretching...
Dave, that's the same lathe I have- under drive and all. I would say no, you can't use these on your lathe since you have the cone pulleys. And using an automotive serpentine belt on our lathes is not an option since the headstock casting has a web that runs between the belt as it goes under the cabinet. Basically, we have to install cut belts and lace them after they're installed. I use leather and lace them by hand- no alligator clips. I have to cut the belt, and stitch it back together when it stretches. Here is a video on how I lace mine if you're interested. czcams.com/video/8TLSx-O0Bjk/video.html The do sell a reinforced belting you might take a look at. It might not stretch, but I have no experience with it. You might even be able to hand lace it, but again I'm not sure. Here's an example: www.ebay.com/itm/Flat-Drive-Belt-for-South-Bend-and-other-lathes-up-to-70-long-and-custom-cut-/330737677697?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d01807581 Good luck, G.
***** Thank you for the reply. I've considered giving it a try, but I'll take your advice. I really don't have a problem with the clicking of the alligator clips, it's the stretching of the belt, and consequential cutting and installing new clips. With the stretching the leather belt tends to get narrower over time. I've tried the reinforced belt you mentioned. While it didn't stretch it's very thin and the alligator clips tend to stick out both sides of the belt requiring grinding off as I didn't want the metal to hit my pulleys. I ended up going back to leather. I may try the Power Twist style belts on my drill press and my end mill one of these days.....
Dave Young No problem Dave. I haven't looked, but they might sell a thicker belt like you've already tried. That could help if you use the alligator clips- to keep them from tearing up the pulleys. Or hand lace it with cord like I showed in the video. Personally, I love hand lacing them since I don't need any special tools or clip material- just a few hand tools, needles, and thread. Once I started using it hand laced, I was surprised on how tough the joint is- I've never had a belt break at the joint. One thing to note, and one I often forget to do, is to loosen the belt tension when the machine is not in use. It does help reduce the stretching and should buy you some time before you need to re-work the belt- or replace it. The link belts are great and I really like using them on the V belt pulleys. Take care, G.
+dakotabluelightning I do know they're used on multi-belt systems, but really don't know the procedure for setting them up. It might be as simple as making them the same length. G.
Yep. On big applications their selling point is the longer life, durability, reduced vibration. Ease of installation really isn't relevant as you'll need to loosen the motor anyways. But yes, really all you need to do is determine how long you need your belt to be, then make sure all the other grooves that you're using have the same number of links.
I have used both belts. Fenner Power Twist is the best , but as with anything if you don't want to spend the money the Accu-Link is a good substitute. I use these on drill presses and band saws. Better used on 1725 motors. I use Fenner on 3475 RPM motors. That is just me and being a cheap B________ I would not hesitate to use the Accu-Link in any machine.
yes the material the belts are made of are quite abrasive. i don't mean to step on any toes. but i was a millwright and these belts were used for emergency. some machines would need 2 plus hours to replace a belt these would suffice so we could run for the rest of the day. but guess who got the job to stay late lol
hondacicle You're certainly not stepping on any toes here- I welcome constructive information- good or bad. Experience is the best teacher. I have iron pulleys on my drill press that were painted black from the factory. I've had these belts on it since 09 and the paint is barely worn. Like I said, my tools aren't used in a production type environment so they should last my lifetime- and beyond. I know you were specific about using them on cast or aluminum pulleys. These may be a different story- like you've said. For my applicatons, I've not seen any problems yet- but time may prove me wrong. Thanks again for contributing, G.
I would Doug. I have them on most of my machines and they work great. The main thing to remember is that they are directional so they need to be installed correctly. Good luck, G.
I've read both ways on using them with a Reeves drive- yes's and no's. Here's a link with folks saying they will work. Personally, I can't confirm either way, so do some research. Good luck, G. sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?243840-Link-belt-on-reeves-drive
ghostses thank you very much for the reply. Yes i did the research since by myself also, found Bill Rockwood here on YT who showed using on a lathe. He confirmed that its working after 2 years of install, with no issue. I'm glad i learned a new word from you "reeves drive" :)
No problem! I looked up the video and at first he was running the belt backward, but towards the end he'd flipped it around. I mention that here so you're aware they are directional. There are arrows printed on the belt to indicate which way it should run. I'd say a two year run and still working on the Reeves drive is a green light. Glad you found what you needed to know! Take care, G.
A friend gave it to me years ago. It's called Tools Exchange....lol. It's a 16 speed press dated 1997. An import I would suppose. Not sure where he got it. Good luck, G.
I got a three/ eighths belt/ he is 100% on " turning it with your thumb " that is not gonna happen" gee I'm gonna have to get two needle nose pliers large ones as my hands are big
It would be more useful to evaluate the Fenner vs the Jason Acculink belts based on performance. The Acculink belts are not exclusive to HF; they are just another dealer for them. Anybody can Google for a good price but reviews help detirmine which products to buy. The Jason belts are a little cheaper. I believe they are imported. The question is whether they are just as good.
Yes Jeffrey, they're not exclusive to HF. I did get one from HF last year and have been meaning to get a review together. I can say it's worked flawlessly. If you need a 1/2" belt, the Acculink should work great. It would be nice if HF would carry the 3/8" as well. Good luck, G.
I have 1 of each on 2 10in table saws, Fenner on Powermatic an Jason Industries on TSC10L i have had to shorten The Jason 2 times an the Fenner 1time, myself i perfer the Fenner but the Jason Ind does the job.
That's cool William. I personally can't speak for Jason Industries but the Fenner's do work great. I think Jason is who supplies Harbor Freight with their green belts. With the exception of my horizontal and vertical band saws, and a small belt sander- All of my belt driven machines are now running Fenner belts. Good luck, G.
I'm not sure exactly what you're calling the point so I will try an explanation. The part of the belt that you have to twist 90 degrees to put it together should point opposite the direction of travel. I hope that make sense. G.
Here's a better way for us to get on the same page: At minute 8:16, which direction does that motor spin, CW or CCW? (The tabs are easily seen at that time) Your tip to stretch the belt is a good one. I tried that and could really feel the belt settle in. Thanks, B.
SuperBardley Good idea! The motor spins CCW on this machine. That should give you the info you need. Stretching does help for sure. Hope this helps, G.
The Fenner belts are permanent belts. I've seen an emergency belt that looked similar to these though. I would guess the Fenner belts are mostly used in commercial applications but know many used them on their power tools, like I do. Thanks for the post, G.
Most are rated for and billed at an emergency use auto belt. That said the Jason Industries belts are rated for full time industrial applications and rated stronger than standard V Belts.
LeopoldUlysees That's cool. I took a look at the manual and it does have the same pulley arrangement, but it appears the adjustment procedure is a bit different than the one I have. It looks like there is a thumbscrew on each side of the head back by where the motor mounts. It looks like you need to loosen both of them and then turn the lever on the right side to loosen the belt. You might have to push the motor forward as you turn the lever to slack the rear belt. Then you should be able to move the belts where you want, turn the lever to tighten the belts, then tighten both thumbscrews. That's what I see, but I could be wrong. Let me know if this helps. Good luck, G.
***** That's the procedure I follow. On the higher end of the pulleys there isn't much of a problem. On the lower ends is where my normally genteel lexicon takes on a decidedly vulgar tone. I'll keep fiddling with it; maybe I'm just doing something wrong. I'll let you know. Other than that, it seems to be a pretty good machine. I'll definitely look into the belt you reviewed.
LeopoldUlysees "Where my normally genteel lexicon takes on a decidedly vulgar tone" ....priceless....lol. I wonder if the belts that came with it are just a tad too short?? I do walk the belt down, or up, one step at a time- alternating from left to right. I've taken a quick look at their presses before and they do look to be decent. Do let me know what you find. Take care, G.
Jason Accu link is a brand that is sold by HF. It is not a house brand. Like Fenner, they make a range of sizes. I was hoping to find out whether the Jason belts are as good as Fenner. This reviewer never actually even owned the Jason belt. "They are probably OK" is not a comparison test. If HF is mis advertising the size of the beltl they are selling, that only reflects on HF. I assume Jason makes belts in all the standard sizes. I still do not know how the quality stacks up to Fenner. The Jason 5/8 that I need is on ebay at a good price but I wnt to know if it is a good belt
Not sure where you got the idea there was any "comparison test" going on. I highlighted Fenner and informed folks to check out the HF's Accu-Link belts for an inexpensive alternative. Plus I don't believe I ever stated "they're probably OK". I said something to the effect of they would probably work just fine. Be well, G.
+roy hoco Good question Roy! I honestly don't know for sure but, I would think any belt driven machine could benefit from using them. If you do use one for your application and it works out- please feedback as it might help others out as well. Good luck and take care, G.
+Paul Hopkins Hey Paul, thanks for chiming in on comments to assist other viewers! Your effort is right inline with my channels aim- to help others out and expect nothing in return! Good points you make and it's most appreciated! Take care, G.
+Paul Hopkins thanks for the info, the benefit for me is that due to a front pto shaft that drives the mowing deck it would much easier to use a accu-link belt to replace the v-belt than trying to install another v-belt. the current belt is 32 years old and I don't know much longer it will last.
+Paul Hopkins fortunately now that I have a big JD 55 hp tractor, for the heavy work, the Allis (27 hp) is mainly used for mowing 2.5 acres about 1.5 hrs a week (at around 1200 - 1500 rpms) in the summer so I would try a accu-link belt at least once to see how it works out before doing all the mechanical work required to replace a V-belt. thanks for the input
Good deal! Let me know hot it works to remove vibration on your saw. Remember though, they're designed to run in a certain direction. There should be arrows on the belt.
When is someone going to invent a link belt that you can easily clip together on the pulley so you can quickly change pulleys instead of having to walk/muscle the things on.
It's cool that it is over priced ? What are you stating ? What part of too expensive don't you understand? Too expensive is not cool it is prohibitive.
You made a statement that it was too expensive. To which I replied "Good deal". Then upon you questioning my response I replied "Good deal as in "that's cool". It being too expensive is an opinion and relative from one person to the next. If you think it's too expensive and cost prohibitive- Well, good deal and that's cool. I don't think it is- but that's just my opinion. G.
I can't say. I don't know if they can be used with idler pulleys. Perhaps contact Fenner to make sure. If they can, It might be a good match. Good luck, G.
I just ordered one of these belts and I was not sure how to use it on my lathe. Your video is very good. Thanks for posting this.
+Josaljo Won
That's cool! Glad it was helpful. Good luck, G.
Never used that type of belt but will next time I need one. Thanks for sharing!
I would Mac, they're great. A tad expensive, but well worth the cost in my opinion. Good luck, G.
Thanks very helpful and easy to follow!
Thanks Dennis! Glad you found something useful. Good luck, G.
Thank you that did help immensely...
+trollforge
No problem! G.
Hey G, to funny!!! I just bought a H.F. Accu-Link adjustable link v belt for my mill. And I was wondering how to install it on my machine so of course I went looking for information on CZcams. When I found another great video from Ghostses!!! After watching this video I sure hope that this new H.F. link v belt will work on my mill!!!
Kind of surprised that you didn't tell me about this video when we were talking about it on the other Atlas horizontal mill videos? Well no matter what at least I found this video, now I can take it apart and adjust it as needed.
Thanks G!!!
That's cool Steve! Didn't even think about this video...lol. G.
Great video! I've never seen those belts at harbor freight before. Very interesting concept.
Thanks! I forgot they sold the 1/2" version of the Fenner's. They work great! Good luck, G.
No problem. I'll have to try them out sometime.
All good. Great vid. Thank you 👍
Thanks Tony! Take care, G.
I've used the HF green belts on my table saw, jointer and bandsaw. I modified the last two machines to use the motor weight for tension. I'm really happy with the results - much lower vibration
Thanks for the info! I've seen their belt, but never used it. Others have given them good praise as well. Take care, G.
Thanks good video on the link belts , there was one comment about a guy not realizing this type of belt are good for a permanent belt that he always thought od them as emergency belts i think that was the case years ago as a similar one was marketed for the auto and marine industries over time rubber and flexible plastics have really come a long way and are much stronger and reliable my Dad use to give me the. Old ones to keep in my tool boxes and he always said to keep it this would get me home in a pinch the only time a belt went. When i was present i was riding in a freinds air cooled VW and we needed the Altenator and fan To get us home that night so we bought panty hose and tied it onto the pulleys ! It made it 4 hours to get us home BTW it was a pair of Leggs from a 7 eleven that we pushed the Dune Buggy to and tied them on in the parking lot somewhere around Daytona Florida We laughed about that one for years as the clerk had no idea why 2 guys would buy panty hose at 10 pm And start high. Fiving in the Parking lot before they drove off into the night the simplicity. Of a VW Beetle motor was awesome that particular one was a 1958 Beetle that had only 36 horse power I believe the car was slow but fun to ride in as it was a Myers Dune Buggy built in the 60s bt my buddies Dad. Who at one time had a Myers Manx distributorship at his Marina so this car had all the available options. From that era which weren't. Very many truthfully !
I remember those emergency belt too Craig. I've been using these belts for years and never had a problem- and have yet to need to change one out. Funny story on the Leggs!! lol. Take care, G.
Thanks! Very helpful video to orient to the use and adjustment of link belts!
The logic behind marking the belt every 10 links is this: if the ONLY thing you ever have to count links for is to strictly use the "remove 1 link every 24" rule-of-thumb, then it might make sense to mark it every 12 links. However, there are a number of other reasons for counting links in general. You might have automated machines counting links all along the production line - reeling material on and off spools, cutting pre-set lengths to make loops, etc. You may have a person doing a similar function on a smaller scale, having to count off in their head. You may have learned, through long experience in your own factory, for your machines, you use a slightly different tensioning algorithm, maybe removing one link for every 22 or 23 or 25 links of length. In all of these other functions, you aren't counting sections of 24 links specifically, you are just *counting total links*, and both in human brains and machines, that makes more sense to do in increments of 10.
For example, if I have a task to to manually unspool a reel and separate 20 segments of 154 links and another 20 segments of 225 links, I'm going to be happier having it marked by 10's than I would if it was marked by 12's.
(To computer dorks, yes, machines probably don't care, and you could even argue that machines count better by 16's anyway, but that's a separate argument, lol!)
Good info! Thanks, G.
To add on to the last comment... Yes pulley size and shaft center distance was definitely the issue. Mechanical advantage comes in handy when available. I can see your point now. If you use any 3V or 5V wedge belts on anything I highly recommend you try out Fenner's new product that we launched in September. SuperTLink. Previously we did not have an option for 3V and 5V. We redesigned our metric belt to fit in these high wedges.
That would explain the trouble Chase. You said "we" three times in your remaining comments regarding other products. I'm I correct in assuming you work for Fenner? G.
Arrow is the drive direction. And the 10 count really helps when replacing belts. I've replaced thousands of these on the line I worked on. I knew we needed 37 links so four arrows remove 3 links done. Add yes aluminum pulleys can get grooved quickly but the proper v groove pulley really seats nicely.
Good tip Larry! Take care, G.
Good info. Thanks
Thanks Dave. Good luck, G.
This is the first time I've come across this post. Good information with regard to proper length and tension. I personally have the HF Accu-link belt on my band saw and I love it. I have also recently replaced the belts on a Jet drill press, which has 1/2" sheaves. Out of curiosity I did a web search and found both 3/8 and 5/8 Accu-link belts available on Amazon in addition to the 1/2". Digging deeper I found that the Accu-link product is manufactured by Jason Industrial, Inc. Since I bought this at HF I always assumed it was a Chinese knock-off. HF still only offers the 1/2". Just thought I'd let everyone know.
+Greg Warren
Thanks Greg! Glad to hear you like the Accu-link! Great findings! I also would've assumed it was a knock-off. I'll need to look into them and compare the costs. Sounds like they work well, so if I can save a buck or two- I might as well. Thanks for the info! Take care, G.
I'm a BIG fan of adjustable link v-belts, they are very tough and last a long time. I have a HF wood lathe that would eat the v-belts that came with it so I thought I would try an adjustable link belt (bought at local industrial supply, it is red so probably Fenner) and haven't had the least bit of trouble after MANY hours of wood turning. I now have a zero-turn mower that is also trying to chew up belts despite all the deck alignment I have done so I am turning to HF green adjustable link belts to try. I am confident that when mowing season rolls around again that this will hold up much better than the rubber v-belt. Here's my recommendation: If you have an ordinary machine, if v-belt works fine, then buy a conventional rubber v-belt, it's cheaper. BUT if you have a tough application or one that's hard to get to to mount a regular v-belt, I highly recommend going with an adjustable link belt, they are much tougher and will last MUCH longer.
As am I Richard! They can hurt a bit to purchase up-front over a standard belt, but after realizing their worth and longevity it makes sense. I also like the fact you don't have to get the exact length like a standard belt since they're adjustable. I could go on for ages, but you already know their value.
Yes, I would say yours is a Fenner since it's red. I've been meaning to get a HF belt to review but still don't have anything else that requires/needs a 1/2" belt. I've heard good things about them though. I'm pretty sure they're made by Jason Industrial.
After you get some time on the HF belt, feedback if you can think about it. Good luck, G.
Thanks, that solves it.
No problem! Glad to help, G.
Hey G, thanks for this info. I have the HF belt on my jointer and honestly I had no idea what I was doing when I put it on so I need to go and make sure I did it all properly now :). I've thought about replacing my drill press belts as well. Where did you purchase them?
No problem Matt. I would guess the HF belt would be the same procedure for adjustment. What do you think about the HF belt? I forgot they sold the 1/2 belt or would have tried one out on my jointer. I bought the 3/8 belt for my drill press off of ebay in 2009. It looks like the seller is still selling them. He sells 4' lengths as well as 1' lengths if you need more than 4'. It was a smooth transaction and they arrived quickly. www.ebay.com/usr/ohioblademan
Hope this helps, G.
Really appreciate you taking the time to send a direct link, I'm gonna pick this up for my DP. The HF belt has done well as far as I can tell but to be 100% honest I just kind of set it and forgot it after so I should probably check on it. I plan on doing a full recalibration of my jointer when the weather gets a bit warmer as I never really set it up right in the first place so that will be one of the things I check out now that I know what to look for.
Matt Przybylski
No problem Matt. Good info on the HF belt. I'll be keeping them in mind if/when I run into another machine that uses a 1/2 belt. I would check it out when the weather changes. Good luck dialing in your machine, G.
I have some machines that have to be disassembled to remove the belts. This would be great for them. In general it's a good product to keep around because you can make any size belt that your heart desires. I didn't know that HF sold a similar product. Thanks!
I agree, Chip. HF does sell the 1/2" belt. I've had some comments reporting they work great. If you have any other sizes, you will probably have to use the Fenner brand. Good luck, G.
Thanks, there is a bearing dealer near me that handles Fenner Belts. I just haven't committed to buying any yet. I'm glad you explained about removing 1 link out of every 24 when making a new belt. That will help save a lot of trial and error.
Chip Wright
No problem, Chip. Good luck, G.
matursuwon infonya...
Thanks! G.
i hope they sell them at the store and not just online. i got nothin to do tommarow and im in the process of a dc conversion on my band saw, new tires and just a general go through, fuck it ill go down and get one to try
I got some off Ebay, and a couple locally at a mechanical power transmission supply house. Good luck with your saw! G.
Question about your drill press installation - mine has a similar pulley arrangement, but the smallest pulley diameter is 1-3/4". Fenner specifies a minimum pulley diameter for the 3/8" belt as 2". Do you have any problems with squealing or binding when running on those little pulleys?
I've wanted to put Fenner on my press for 22 years but didn't know until now they had started making it in 3/8". I looked for it for years with no luck. Thanks much.
Mike, I took a look at my press and the smallest step on mine is 1 7/8". Although I usually don't use that step- the belt runs just fine on mine, no squeal, etc. Your step is a bit smaller, but might work just fine. It it were a problem, perhaps you can avoid using it and select another range. I believe Fenner calls the 3/8" belt a 3L- for reference. If you install some on yours, let me know how it works out. It might help others out as well. My press was a new machine after installing them. Good luck, G.
I will indeed. Years ago I used the 1/2" on a contractor table saw I had, but it didn't seem to do anything but make it noisier. But there's enough vibration in my drill press that it's worth taking a shot. Thanks again.
That's cool Mike! That surprises me. My TS was the first tool I used one on, and it was day and night over a standard V belt. The link belts are directional, so they must be installed correctly. If they're not, they can make things worse. Most of my machine tools have them now- and each has benefited greatly from them, metal lathes, TS, milling machine, jointer, drill press, and air compressor. My horizontal bandsaw, and vertical wood/metal bandsaw are the last on my list. I've been waiting for them to get to the point they need a new belt. Let me know! G.
I've often wondered if I had it on backward, unfortunately that saw was long ago replaced by a Unisaw so I can't verify the theory. The Unisaw has no such issues. 😉👍 That was way back in the Fenner-Mannheim days and I don't remember them specifying that they were directional. That was long before things like CZcams, so that level of minutiae was much harder to nail down.
At that time the only way I even knew of the link belt was because of Woodcraft selling those contractor saw "upgrade kits" which contained two (nice) machined pulleys and a length of 1/2" belt. I don't recall the instructions mentioning a proper direction but I've always wondered if that was the issue.
You may very well have had it running backwards Mike. The Uni was a welcomed upgrade I'm sure. They're so robust, even a set in a V-belt might have no effect on that machine. Agreed, CZcams/the web has made everything easier.
I too learned of them through Woodcraft. That's where my TS belt and machined pulleys came from- the "kit". I don't believe they offer them any longer.
I too don't recall if they mentioned direction, or if I just noticed the arrows on the belt. Believe it or not, I'm still running the same belt on my TS with the kit- some 12 or so yrs. later. Still works like day one! G.
First of all, thanks for pitching the product. It really is a solution provider. But I wouldn't consider it hard to roll on at the proper tension. I do it every day on countless pieces of equipment in all kinds of industries. Maybe that's why I think it is easier, because I do it all the time. However, if my 8 year old daughter has no trouble rolling these on a multiple groove sheave at the proper tension I don't see it being "hard pressed" for a maintenance man to get it on. The belt doesn't stretch when you put your foot on it... The tabs seat in place. That is where the initial elongation comes from.
All in all... The Fenner Drives PowerTwistPlus link belt beats the socks off a rubber belt in every way.
No problem Chase! I agree, they're a great product and literally beat standard belts like nobody's business. I've been running them for years and won't do without them. This is the first time I installed one on a machine that didn't have a jack shaft with a tension adjustment, or in the case of my TS the motor weight provides the tension. I know I'm no weakling and am certainly stronger than an 8 year old- I hope...lol. I'm not sure why I had the issue. Perhaps maybe the small diameter of the pulleys and shaft distance had something to do with it?- who knows.
I agree, the belt doesn't stretch but the tabs seat like you say. I misspoke in the clip. Take care man and good luck, G.
I understand that the link style vbelt has some great qualities but in most cases I'm not sure I could talk myself into buying a $20ish belt when I can run down to the auto store of your choice and get a standard vbelt for around 5 dollars.
I can understand that Jacob! I was converted after installing the first one on my table saw. When my other machines belts would take on a set, or need to be replaced- I started upgrading them as well. It really is something that needs to be experienced first hand- the before and after. They may not be for everyone, or even required, but for me- I'll never use standard belts again unless I have to. Good luck, G.
Great hand dance.
Thanks Lyle. It's all about Jazz these days. Take care, G.
The HF belt is wider than the Fenner. It's really a 9/16. It rides too high out of a 1/2" pulley. They are trying to make a belt that will function in both 1/2" and 5/8" pulleys. The Fenner on Ebay 29.99 shipped free. HF belt 26.99 plus shipping. Why not reward the American company with they produce both a more accurate and lower cost delivered part? I've actually found the Fenner for something like $22 before. Removed the HF from my Atlas Lathe. It just didn't fit correctly. Paul Hopkins below mentions the HF may be a foot longer, that may be true. I'll have to check my sleeves.
+Crafted
Good info on the HF belt. Thanks for chiming in! Take care, G.
Where do you think the harbor freight belts are made?
Mike West There is now speculation that it is a Jason Industrial. It's a 5L size which is almost 1/16" too wide. The package does not say Made In USA anywhere which is the argument against the Jason Industrial speculation. It's Harbor Freight trying to have one part number that appears to fit a wide variety of applications. However, it's too wide for most home workshop tools. It may work but it won't have as much surface area engaging with the sides of the sheave (pulley). I don't remember the details of the video above as that was some time ago for me. I kind of lean away from trying to justify cheapness and towards finding the right answer. I'd rather work a few minutes longer for the dough to get the right thing. The Fenner's are affordable and fit absolutely properly. I've only used the HF and the Fenner in my shop. Never had a package marked Jason Industrial to try out.
The accu links i got from hb were made in America by jason industrial. I can comment on tge exact size but i do remember them riding high in the pulleys. Cheers
Crafted ii
I have only played with link belts once, ingenious design in many ways. I would say you would have to adjust your shoelaces a few times untill everything is comfortable with new shoes. I'm just guessing here but the "ten" mark might be something to do with the manufacturing process, stamped out of the sheet in ten with a dot on the last row, or to help machine counting. I don't mind tens, you count the tens then so many links. Or maybe they are foot markers to un splice the at the factory and not for the consumer. Dunno but interesting non the least.
You could be right. They say to use them to count off the links, but why mark 10 was the mystery to me. Either way, they do work great once installed. Thanks, G.
Can the link belts be used to replace a flat belt (on a 9" South Bend, model A, underhung with a cone pulley, for instance)? I'm currently using a leather belt with alligator lacing, but I'm tired of the leather constantly stretching...
Dave, that's the same lathe I have- under drive and all. I would say no, you can't use these on your lathe since you have the cone pulleys. And using an automotive serpentine belt on our lathes is not an option since the headstock casting has a web that runs between the belt as it goes under the cabinet. Basically, we have to install cut belts and lace them after they're installed.
I use leather and lace them by hand- no alligator clips. I have to cut the belt, and stitch it back together when it stretches. Here is a video on how I lace mine if you're interested.
czcams.com/video/8TLSx-O0Bjk/video.html
The do sell a reinforced belting you might take a look at. It might not stretch, but I have no experience with it. You might even be able to hand lace it, but again I'm not sure.
Here's an example:
www.ebay.com/itm/Flat-Drive-Belt-for-South-Bend-and-other-lathes-up-to-70-long-and-custom-cut-/330737677697?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d01807581
Good luck, G.
***** Thank you for the reply. I've considered giving it a try, but I'll take your advice. I really don't have a problem with the clicking of the alligator clips, it's the stretching of the belt, and consequential cutting and installing new clips. With the stretching the leather belt tends to get narrower over time.
I've tried the reinforced belt you mentioned. While it didn't stretch it's very thin and the alligator clips tend to stick out both sides of the belt requiring grinding off as I didn't want the metal to hit my pulleys. I ended up going back to leather.
I may try the Power Twist style belts on my drill press and my end mill one of these days.....
Dave Young No problem Dave. I haven't looked, but they might sell a thicker belt like you've already tried. That could help if you use the alligator clips- to keep them from tearing up the pulleys. Or hand lace it with cord like I showed in the video. Personally, I love hand lacing them since I don't need any special tools or clip material- just a few hand tools, needles, and thread. Once I started using it hand laced, I was surprised on how tough the joint is- I've never had a belt break at the joint. One thing to note, and one I often forget to do, is to loosen the belt tension when the machine is not in use. It does help reduce the stretching and should buy you some time before you need to re-work the belt- or replace it.
The link belts are great and I really like using them on the V belt pulleys.
Take care, G.
Have the Acculinks. Getting them type so they don’t slip is a chore.
That's cool Glenn. I have one on my jointer and it has been working good for me. Take care, G.
I'm wondering how link belts would work on a machine that uses multiple v belts. would they have to be matched somehow?
+dakotabluelightning
I do know they're used on multi-belt systems, but really don't know the procedure for setting them up. It might be as simple as making them the same length. G.
Yep. On big applications their selling point is the longer life, durability, reduced vibration. Ease of installation really isn't relevant as you'll need to loosen the motor anyways.
But yes, really all you need to do is determine how long you need your belt to be, then make sure all the other grooves that you're using have the same number of links.
I have used both belts. Fenner Power Twist is the best , but as with anything if you don't want to spend the money the Accu-Link is a good substitute. I use these on drill presses and band saws. Better used on 1725 motors. I use Fenner on 3475 RPM motors. That is just me and being a cheap B________ I would not hesitate to use the Accu-Link in any machine.
Thanks James! I finally picked up an Accu-Link to use on my jointer and it's been doing great. Take care, G.
just a little more info if you use these on cast or aluminum pulleys be prepared to replace the pulleys quite fast.
Good info, I've not had a problem yet- but I don't use my tools on a constant basis either. I will keep an eye on them though. Thanks again, G.
Is that something to do with silicates or other hard particles in the leather/rubber/fiber?
yes the material the belts are made of are quite abrasive. i don't mean to step on any toes. but i was a millwright and these belts were used for emergency. some machines would need 2 plus hours to replace a belt these would suffice so we could run for the rest of the day. but guess who got the job to stay late lol
hondacicle
You're certainly not stepping on any toes here- I welcome constructive information- good or bad. Experience is the best teacher. I have iron pulleys on my drill press that were painted black from the factory. I've had these belts on it since 09 and the paint is barely worn. Like I said, my tools aren't used in a production type environment so they should last my lifetime- and beyond. I know you were specific about using them on cast or aluminum pulleys. These may be a different story- like you've said. For my applicatons, I've not seen any problems yet- but time may prove me wrong. Thanks again for contributing, G.
So beware for die-case aluminium pulleys.
Would u recommend use for a v belt drivin set up
I would Doug. I have them on most of my machines and they work great. The main thing to remember is that they are directional so they need to be installed correctly. Good luck, G.
Do these link belts works on stepless drill presses?
I've read both ways on using them with a Reeves drive- yes's and no's. Here's a link with folks saying they will work. Personally, I can't confirm either way, so do some research. Good luck, G.
sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?243840-Link-belt-on-reeves-drive
ghostses thank you very much for the reply. Yes i did the research since by myself also, found Bill Rockwood here on YT who showed using on a lathe. He confirmed that its working after 2 years of install, with no issue. I'm glad i learned a new word from you "reeves drive" :)
No problem! I looked up the video and at first he was running the belt backward, but towards the end he'd flipped it around. I mention that here so you're aware they are directional. There are arrows printed on the belt to indicate which way it should run. I'd say a two year run and still working on the Reeves drive is a green light. Glad you found what you needed to know! Take care, G.
Hey G, what do you have for a drill press?
A friend gave it to me years ago. It's called Tools Exchange....lol. It's a 16 speed press dated 1997. An import I would suppose. Not sure where he got it. Good luck, G.
They are better than the others on drill press
Agreed, G.
I got a three/ eighths belt/ he is 100% on " turning it with your thumb " that is not gonna happen" gee I'm gonna have to get two needle nose pliers large ones as my hands are big
Very true Wayne! I have to use tools. Take care, G.
It would be more useful to evaluate the Fenner vs the Jason Acculink belts based on performance. The Acculink belts are not exclusive to HF; they are just another dealer for them. Anybody can Google for a good price but reviews help detirmine which products to buy. The Jason belts are a little cheaper. I believe they are imported. The question is whether they are just as good.
Yes Jeffrey, they're not exclusive to HF. I did get one from HF last year and have been meaning to get a review together. I can say it's worked flawlessly. If you need a 1/2" belt, the Acculink should work great. It would be nice if HF would carry the 3/8" as well. Good luck, G.
I have 1 of each on 2 10in table saws, Fenner on Powermatic an Jason Industries on TSC10L i have had to shorten The Jason 2 times an the Fenner 1time, myself i perfer the Fenner but the Jason Ind does the job.
That's cool William. I personally can't speak for Jason Industries but the Fenner's do work great. I think Jason is who supplies Harbor Freight with their green belts. With the exception of my horizontal and vertical band saws, and a small belt sander- All of my belt driven machines are now running Fenner belts. Good luck, G.
I've got the HF link belt; it has no markings to indicate orientation. Should the tip point in the direction of travel?
I'm not sure exactly what you're calling the point so I will try an explanation. The part of the belt that you have to twist 90 degrees to put it together should point opposite the direction of travel. I hope that make sense. G.
Here's a better way for us to get on the same page: At minute 8:16, which direction does that motor spin, CW or CCW? (The tabs are easily seen at that time)
Your tip to stretch the belt is a good one. I tried that and could really feel the belt settle in.
Thanks, B.
SuperBardley
Good idea! The motor spins CCW on this machine. That should give you the info you need. Stretching does help for sure.
Hope this helps,
G.
Another way to remember: You want the tip to "lay down" in the sheave when it's running.
MukYJ Good tip! Thanks, G.
this is the first time i have ever seen anyone use these for permanent belts. these were only known to me as emergency belts.
The Fenner belts are permanent belts. I've seen an emergency belt that looked similar to these though. I would guess the Fenner belts are mostly used in commercial applications but know many used them on their power tools, like I do. Thanks for the post, G.
Can I install this type of belt on a 03 Toyota Tacoma as an alternator belt??
I don't think I would use these for an automotive application, but it might work. G.
Most are rated for and billed at an emergency use auto belt. That said the Jason Industries belts are rated for full time industrial applications and rated stronger than standard V Belts.
At the 9:00 minute point. . .what drill press is that?
It's a press a friend of mine gave me years ago. It just says Tools Exchange on it. It's a floor model with 16 speeds made in 1997. G.
I ask because I recently bought an HF model 38142, and it has the same sort of pulley arrangement. I'm having a devil of a time changing the speeds.
LeopoldUlysees
That's cool. I took a look at the manual and it does have the same pulley arrangement, but it appears the adjustment procedure is a bit different than the one I have. It looks like there is a thumbscrew on each side of the head back by where the motor mounts. It looks like you need to loosen both of them and then turn the lever on the right side to loosen the belt. You might have to push the motor forward as you turn the lever to slack the rear belt. Then you should be able to move the belts where you want, turn the lever to tighten the belts, then tighten both thumbscrews. That's what I see, but I could be wrong. Let me know if this helps. Good luck, G.
***** That's the procedure I follow. On the higher end of the pulleys there isn't much of a problem. On the lower ends is where my normally genteel lexicon takes on a decidedly vulgar tone. I'll keep fiddling with it; maybe I'm just doing something wrong. I'll let you know.
Other than that, it seems to be a pretty good machine. I'll definitely look into the belt you reviewed.
LeopoldUlysees "Where my normally genteel lexicon takes on a decidedly vulgar tone" ....priceless....lol. I wonder if the belts that came with it are just a tad too short?? I do walk the belt down, or up, one step at a time- alternating from left to right.
I've taken a quick look at their presses before and they do look to be decent.
Do let me know what you find. Take care, G.
can it work for an air compressor?
+Daniel Pinedo
Sure it can Daniel. I use one on my compressor. Good luck, G.
+ghostses thanks I'll try it mine then👍👍
Daniel Pinedo
No problem! G.
Jason Accu link is a brand that is sold by HF. It is not a house brand. Like Fenner, they make a range of sizes. I was hoping to find out whether the Jason belts are as good as Fenner. This reviewer never actually even owned the Jason belt. "They are probably OK" is not a comparison test. If HF is mis advertising the size of the beltl they are selling, that only reflects on HF. I assume Jason makes belts in all the standard sizes. I still do not know how the quality stacks up to Fenner. The Jason 5/8 that I need is on ebay at a good price but I wnt to know if it is a good belt
Not sure where you got the idea there was any "comparison test" going on. I highlighted Fenner and informed folks to check out the HF's Accu-Link belts for an inexpensive alternative. Plus I don't believe I ever stated "they're probably OK". I said something to the effect of they would probably work just fine. Be well, G.
the reason for the difference in messerment is because its in mm
That's interesting Skip! Take care, G.
will these belts work on a small tractor 27 hp diesel engine
+roy hoco
Good question Roy! I honestly don't know for sure but, I would think any belt driven machine could benefit from using them. If you do use one for your application and it works out- please feedback as it might help others out as well. Good luck and take care, G.
+Paul Hopkins
Hey Paul, thanks for chiming in on comments to assist other viewers! Your effort is right inline with my channels aim- to help others out and expect nothing in return! Good points you make and it's most appreciated! Take care, G.
+Paul Hopkins
Good deal! G.
+Paul Hopkins thanks for the info, the benefit for me is that due to a front pto shaft that drives the mowing deck it would much easier to use a accu-link belt to replace the v-belt than trying to install another v-belt. the current belt is 32 years old and I don't know much longer it will last.
+Paul Hopkins fortunately now that I have a big JD 55 hp tractor, for the heavy work, the Allis (27 hp) is mainly used for mowing 2.5 acres about 1.5 hrs a week (at around 1200 - 1500 rpms) in the summer so I would try a accu-link belt at least once to see how it works out before doing all the mechanical work required to replace a V-belt. thanks for the input
I got a ½ inch x 5 foot section for $40 canadian on Amazon for my tablesaw
Good deal! Let me know hot it works to remove vibration on your saw. Remember though, they're designed to run in a certain direction. There should be arrows on the belt.
@ghostses it runs beautifully, big difference from a conventional belt
When is someone going to invent a link belt that you can easily clip together on the pulley so you can quickly change pulleys instead of having to walk/muscle the things on.
That's a good question, John- and a good idea! Take care, G.
Poor visual because camera did not always focus on what was being shown.
Yes, it was a fixed focus ZI8 that shot the video. It was what it was. Take care, G.
It has gotten too expensive !
Good deal! G.
Why is that a Good deal ?
Good deal as in "that's cool". G.
It's cool that it is over priced ?
What are you stating ?
What part of too expensive don't you understand?
Too expensive is not cool it is prohibitive.
You made a statement that it was too expensive. To which I replied "Good deal". Then upon you questioning my response I replied "Good deal as in "that's cool".
It being too expensive is an opinion and relative from one person to the next. If you think it's too expensive and cost prohibitive- Well, good deal and that's cool. I don't think it is- but that's just my opinion. G.
would this belt work on a 12hp gas riding lawn mower?
I can't say. I don't know if they can be used with idler pulleys. Perhaps contact Fenner to make sure. If they can, It might be a good match. Good luck, G.