What YOU have to Look Out for in a LED Grow Light!
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 30. 07. 2024
- Thanks so much for Anthon from ENERGYWISE SYSTEMS for coming on the show to share information about LED Grow Lights!đ±
These days it's super complicated to try to determine all the factors that go into a Grow Lights, attributes like Power Consumption, Lifespan, Efficiency and more!
We broke it down for you in this video, hope you guys enjoy the content.
Thanks for watching guys! đ
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Blue light limit the cell expansion (stretching), so it's good for veg and also during stretching at the early flowering. Just wanted to get the info so people who change light between veg and bloom don't make that mistake of doing it before stretching. Blue is less efficient (like big time), so that's why lights only have small % of blue, wich 3-5% seems enough to shorten the plants. Red is extremly efficient (for both growth and flowering), and green is slightly less efficient. Basicly, the higher you go in the spectrum (in nm), the more efficient it gets. Far Red (700-750nm) is even more efficient, but the downside is that is promote elongation (the opposite of blue). There's some new spectrometers now that includes Far Red and instead of talking about PAR numbers, it's called ePAR numbers.
Didn't know the LMB, I need to check it out, interesting stuff. Longevity is a very complicated matters because you want your LED to last, but also the drivers (=ACDC ballast). The LED's longevity are given for a standard power (in mA) and some led manufacturers will overpower them to save on cost (less of the same LEDchip per w), wich make them less efficient and they will die quicker (some says up to 3 times quicker). Also drivers' longevity varies a lot, Meanwell are known to be top notch but even they will have difference between models (and different warranty, 5 or 7 years usually). But it's a big problem because when you buy a light, they never tells you the models, if you're lucky, the tell you the brand. At that point, I don't know enough to tell you more.
Also, be carefull about warranty. Some chinese manufacturers like Spider Farmer and Hydro Mars have a 5 years warranty, wich sounds great. But getting them to honnor it can be very tricky. I recomand doing a grow journal on any of the famous forums (like 420magazine). I've seen some people get stuck with after sale bad faith but them they complain on the forums, and suddenly, they honnor their warranty (because they care about the company's image).
Waaaa I wrote a novel ^^ Hope this helps anyone ;) And thanks for that video, a lot of useful informations on it.
Thanks for the great help guys, good to know these things đ
Very informative, and a lot of info to use and apply. Thanks everyone đȘđ»đđ»âđ»
Nice one Anton!!!!
I really like the simple 30w led per sq'. I think youll be safe to start there.
can it possible by Solar cell?
Iâm finding hard to upgrade from Mh/HPS to LED not because I think LED sucks but the fact is you can buy a fixture for $800 and then go online and find something better. So itâs a constant money pit like computers itâs a race youâll never win. Iâm happy with my MH/HPS itâs old technology but it works perfectly fine. I grow in a 4x4 tent Iâm not worried about cost on electricity my bill only increased a few dollars on a 600-watt ballast.
I use green sunlight company es 300 v3
Can you guys please do a show on hps, mh, cmh lights, dos and fonts, it would be really awesome, thanks Andrew
I just grow with normal shed light bulps is not the best but all i can afford and work's fine for me đđ
Candle foot/ or candle feet. 3:48
Distance in feet that light travels from a candle.
Great content not about the bs like other channels plugging in just sponsor with out the data and analytics
Indorsun,locally made using high quality components like Samsung,come with a 5 year warranty AND dew to them being local repairs are hassle free
I start everything with a cheap LED and when things appear to be growing good I switch to 600w hps on 12s!
Y do you switch to hPS when it's a proven fact that led are more efficient, and they draw less power, create less heat.
Because my LED doesn't make them Bush out like my hps plus I've had my600w for years and I think my LEDs are more suited for cloning and nursing than growing and producing bigger buds. It's just how I make it work/preference đ
Agree that was way I still use HPs 600w with pulse Ballast also got leds when I got new tents to try out bt found better results with led for seedlings or clones and HP's for veg and flower.
â@@elfritts9895Same here bro.....
My LED setup, just replaced the need to switch out my MH bulb.
I've taken LEDs from start to finish, had crazy results as far as bag/eye appeal. (Probably visually better)
But it wasn't enough to exile my hps fixtures, because the taste was the same, and quantity always favored hps for me.
Maybe I'm just an old dog? đâđż
Just get the ac infinity evoframe comes with a digital timer
Buy only leds with Samsung lm301B/H with ir and uv ! If 2.7 /2.9 luminol and for big nuggets from 240 watts youâre good đŻđŻ
Ps and spectrum 3500 k for all flowering stages
bar vs board it's hell to flower under bar when you add alote of plants compared to a board the board does better
@@patrickbeguin6719 what you can buy are 3000k/5000k mixes, and 3000k/6500k mixes
Don't make the LED mistake full stop.. Get an HPS and you won't regret it.
Don't grow autos either they need 20 hours lights on a day for the entire grow. Regular strains can grow under 11-12 hours for 80% of the grow. So people who say HPS is more expensive to run should consider that point too. HPS also provides heating which means you don't need to use extra heating in the colder months.
Grow with HPS and Grow Hydro.
Sodium IS THE KING , well not really but most good led are Very expensive , anyway its worksđ
In ye olde days of incandescent lights, there was a very predictable relationship between power and the spectrum of wavelengths of light emitted. With old-fashioned lights, most energy radiated is infrared - not much use to any plant growth. It is also a very inefficient process. LEDs are a completely different technology based on quantum mechanical effects as electrons are excited to higher energies and thereafter lose energy by means of discrete jumps from orbitals at high energy to low-energy orbitals. This results in sharply defined energy levels. LEDs can be designed to emit different wavelength, depending on the structure of the atoms in the LED (doping!). Over millions of years of evolution, cannabis (and other plants) have adapted to maximally benefit from the light spectrum emitted by the sun. This ranges from long wavelength infrared through to short wavelength ultraviolet light. Thus, pure sunlight is by far the best light source. Any substitute light source MUST emulate the sun's spectrum as much as possible. It's worth noting that the largest gains will be to promote the presence of a full spectrum of terpenes and flavonoids - rather than influencing the cannabinoids
đ€ŠââïžIâm 4 months in and been using a 5k lumens , 2-1k lumens and one 500w light for my plants
Nothing wrong with leds
Buy the light that is designed for your tent size. That is the most important. Any current models from any known manufacturers produce more light than you need and the par maps are available. That and the price is all you need to know. All led grow lights on the market today are full spectrum so will work for the whole grow. You don't need to change spectrum from veg to flower. There is negligible variance in spectrum distribution from brand to brand. You are looking at about 30 watts per sq ft. A light for a 2Ă2 will draw about 125 watts, 250 for a 2Ă4 etc.
I use a ts2000 300watt made to flower a 4x4 i use it in a 2x2 but I only use 150 watts the temps are much cooler and I get a far better light spread as the light pretty much covers the whole 2x2 I also yield like 15 to 20% extra
@@PatrickWilson-hy5yf Your light is configured for a square space, not a rectangle. Those extra watts are wasted because of uneven light distribution. That is why you buy a light to fit the space. A 300w light will flower a 3Ă3 so you aren't overpowered, but your par map will be crap. Running it at 150 seems low, my 2- 2Ă4 lights are 265w and designed for even light distribution in that space. I run them at 100% in flower.
@@roywarriner8441 no my friend you got it all wrong my light is 23.5 inches wide by 19.5inches depth it pretty much covers the entire grow tent I'm able to dim the light to 50 to60% for flower and as low as 20% for veg I get a better par by being able to get my lights closer /lower to the plants and still get good par to the sides due to the light covering the entire grow space and the light being so cool from running it low I get anywhere from 9 to 11 ounces of 150 to 160 watts depending on the strain
@@PatrickWilson-hy5yf sorry, I read 2Ă4 not 2Ă2, so light distribution is good but you spent more on lights than you needed to. A good light for a 2Ă2 costs $149 CAD, a good light for a 3Ă3 is 400 bucks CAD. I'm sticking with my original comment of buying the right light for the tent. 125-150 watts is more than enough for a 2Ă2, 300 watts is overpowered and overpriced.
@@roywarriner8441 yeah you pay more though and actually I save on power by not having to run my AC it can get pretty hot here in Aus and like I said I get far better light coverage wall to wall it outperforms the ts1000 set at 100% throughout the entire flower I use to get 6 to 9 ounces could never quite hit 10 I would imagine it would last longer as well it's definitely worth the extra cost imo what ever float your boat I suppose
Veg under 6500k t5. Led canât touch 6500k
I have a mix of 3000k/6500k on my led board.... so some are making them with 6500k
I'll stick to hid's any led I've has problems with diodes not working etc, they aren't reliable , if there isn't a three year guarantee, it ain't worth to buy, HP's, always delivers the goods , and it's cheap to change the bulb.
Lumen is for human :).
ok i got to ask why are you dudes wearing a cap/hat in doors when it is so hot,...
Just a habit hey
@@MarijuanaSA :)
The 2 worst things about LED grow lights wasn't even covered in this video đ€ŠđŸ. I'll give you a hint about one. 99% of growers fail because of LED lights. TO MUCH LIGHT
2nd one is 99.9% of all growers forget to convert there LED.
What do you mean by convert ?
@@automobilepilot191 Convert to HID equivalentcy then calculate there sqft for the correct space. 99% don't do this so its always to much light. I see people put a 680W in a 4x4 because they failed to convert correctly.
@@automobilepilot191 as an example:
Say you are purchasing a light there are sequence of events one must do when buying a LED light, if not you will either have to much light and kill your plants or you wnt net the weight for your space and electricity usage. Whenever buying a LED light you must first look at the conversion first. HID has 4 main lights for HID its 1000W, 600W, 400W and 200W. Now, assuming you got correct LED and not knockoff LED lights that lie about they output, I'm talking about real high output lights HLG, Growers Choice etc:
720W LED is equivalent to 1000W HID 25 SQFT or 5x5
420W LED is equivalent to 600W HID
16 SQFT or 4x4
275W LED is equivalent to 400W HID.
9 SQFT or 3x3
Say you have a 4x4 space. I see 99% of growers buy a 600W LED. They failed to convert. A 600W HID is for a 4x4 space or 16 Sqft. It takes 16 sqft to get the max weight for that light output. However, LED doesn't need to use 600W to get that weight. A 420W LED can produce more per square meter than a 600W HID. A LED puts our more PAR watt to watt than HID. Therefore a 420W LED is equivalent to a 600W HID. The LED converts electricity into usable Ppfd better than HID. If you were to use a 600W LED in a 4x4 that is equivalent to you putting a 1000W HID in a 4x4. This are reasons why 99% of growers kill they plants. They always forget to convert.
@@TeW33zy so raise the light, or run the darn thing at 50%
@@curiousbystander9193 In order to run a LED light you have to use a PPFD meter and follow the umols/m2 at each stage of the grow cycle. Lights should always be almost at the top of tent about 75% high excluding seedlings and small plants. A ppfd meter must always be used when using LED
why don't they sell autoflowers like clones ?..they can grow out to a certain level and give it a great start ...saves times cant believe that aint a thing..
What do you mean sell autoflowers like clones?!
Photoperiod clones can be kept in veg indefinitely. NOT autoflower clones. Theyâll flower regardless, you canât keep them in veg.
Besides, cloning autos is NOT worth the effort nor is it recommended anyway !!!
@@freedom_born
He means âŠ..
Have a store front start 1000 auto flowers of all kinds of strains (100 kinds) and ppl could come into the store select 4 or more flowers â that have already had a head start in veg about to turn flower â and me
The customer brings my selection home to my garden to flower and finish âŠ..
I understand what he means
Makes sense to me đŻ
because everyone knows that cloning autoflowers is suboptimal that's why it's not done...
@@MrKush815
Start from seed not clone
We all know u canât clone autos bro itâs 2022!
@Mr.Dj
Because itâs not viable for the shop/store/dispo!! They canât have a multiple amount of autos sitting around waiting for customers to purchase, and they canât guarantee or estimate when the auto might start flowering. Besides, the pot size they hold them in could literally trigger their flip if it isnât big enough, cos once autos start getting root bound they start triggering - and their roots grow significantly faster than photos⊠AND since you may have to transplant - you should never try to transplant an auto anyway! So for all practicality, it wouldnât be worth it. Cmon man.