Can we take a moment to appreciate that GM gave us quick disconnect fittings on a part that requires such extensive disassembly of the truck to replace? Thanks for that....
@@Sherman62 And what about when you want to jump start someone else's car? You jumper cables can't reach the negative cable unless you unbolt that one other part. Whatever happened to putting the battery up front for ease of access?
@@princenoah21 I think the NEG is the terminal that is hard to get to, so hook that cable unto a bracket or something. If you don't have a handle on your battery, it is great fun pulling it up out of the hole with your fingertips, lol.
Great video and thank you for sharing your knowledge. I got in my truck this morning and couldn't get the windshield to defrost and it was just getting worse. Then the sweet smell of antifreeze hit my nose and i knew instantly what was wrong. Now comes the part of deciding to do it my self or take it to a shop. Thanks again
So I decided to dig into it, and what I found was that the bearing in the tensioner pulley was shot, and when that got hot, it caused the tensioner to loosen which caused the belt to slip on the water pump which caused the motor to get hot a little bit, and when the system got hot, it put pressure on the heater core and caused a leak. Well I took everything apart and tested the heater core and the heater core itself is good… It was one of the small rubber O-rings that connect the movable arms so I literally did 2 to 3 days worth of work to change to O-rings.
What all else can I replace if I'm going through all this trouble to get the heater core replaced? Should I also do the evaporator core? heater air door actuator? Blower motor? I would hate to just replace the heater core then then something else buried in the dash goes out and I have to tear it apart again..
Just wanted to say thank you very much for a Very detailed video I was trying to install the stupid snap on heater core hose adapters because mine was leaking put it all together started to truck and it floated the inside with antifreeze So I used your video to get to the heater core to find out after I purchased a new 1 that I didn't break mine the tubes going into it has the stupid little clips that holds the tubes in place that popped off from me Pushing so hard trying to get the snap on the outside was wondering if all those trucks are like that the new one that I purchased was wrong didn't have the removable tubes
Great video. I thought I would try to handle this job myself, but after seeing all that is involved .......NOPE. I curse GM for making it so complicated. That cracked dash is too common. Mine is the same condition. What ever happened to making products that last and easy to work on?
AMAZING video! This was a life saver. I am to the point where I have the Heater Box on my bench but I NEED HELP ASAP! How the heck do I open up the Heater Box to remove the Evaporator? I took out all the screws and unclipped wire harness but there are all these points that seem to be welded plastic along the seam. They look like little black donuts. Am I supposed to cut these I have no idea what to do without destroying the heater box? Can I use Permatex high temp gasket maker to reseal the box when I put the two halves back together?
I second that. My box was also sealed with plastic seal points all the way around. I drilled them out with 5/16" bit and it was big enough to break the plastic connections. When I tried a 1/8", that wasn't nearly big enough and I couldn't get the housing open. Now I just need to get some screws to put in there to fasten it up. GTG!
Is the drain in the lower hvac box just a tube that goes straight out, or is there anything else in there? I see its surrounded by that beer can shaped plastic.
My dash is so cracked I can basically remove the top of the dash that’s under the carpet dash cover. I believe I have a heater core leak and was going to bypass the heat down here in FL but I’m considering cutting the box enough to let the core slide toward the back of the car enough to lift it out of the top of the dash without 8 hours of insanity. Nothing I hate more than working on a vehicle I don’t care about.
Q: My old evap core has a clear yellow oil in it. I thought only the ac compressor had oil in the AC system. So I take it there is oil in the accumulator / evap core too? Q: Would the oil be added after everything is installed and put back together?
OIL CIRCULATE'S THRU THE WHOLE SYSTEM , ADD 2 OZ. OF A/C OIL , YOU CAN ADD IT STRAIGHT TO THE EVAP CORE ARE YOU CAN PICK UP A CAN OF OIL CHARGE AND ADD IT TO SYSTEM THRU THE GAUGES .
I spent my Sunday yesterday doin this to mine, that nut behind the engine IS a pita, I will say it wasn’t too bad pullin the dash. I will rather do that than cuttin the box open, my Silverado is a 2011 and the evaporator had a temp sensor stabbed into it so even if I had taken the easy route it most likely wouldn’t have been put back in right.
14 hours labor lol of course a shop would say 14 hours and in the process break stuff and not tell you and in reality only take them about 3 hours to do. Scam artist
Can we take a moment to appreciate that GM gave us quick disconnect fittings on a part that requires such extensive disassembly of the truck to replace? Thanks for that....
Same for having to do the same shit to change the battery when it fails.
@@princenoah21 Luckily, the batteries in my two Silverados lasted about nine years.
@@Sherman62 And what about when you want to jump start someone else's car? You jumper cables can't reach the negative cable unless you unbolt that one other part. Whatever happened to putting the battery up front for ease of access?
@@princenoah21 I think the NEG is the terminal that is hard to get to, so hook that cable unto a bracket or something. If you don't have a handle on your battery, it is great fun pulling it up out of the hole with your fingertips, lol.
Thank you so much for making this! I’m almost done getting the dash pulled out!
Great video and thank you for sharing your knowledge. I got in my truck this morning and couldn't get the windshield to defrost and it was just getting worse. Then the sweet smell of antifreeze hit my nose and i knew instantly what was wrong. Now comes the part of deciding to do it my self or take it to a shop. Thanks again
What did you decide? I'm getting to deal with this now
So I decided to dig into it, and what I found was that the bearing in the tensioner pulley was shot, and when that got hot, it caused the tensioner to loosen which caused the belt to slip on the water pump which caused the motor to get hot a little bit, and when the system got hot, it put pressure on the heater core and caused a leak. Well I took everything apart and tested the heater core and the heater core itself is good… It was one of the small rubber O-rings that connect the movable arms so I literally did 2 to 3 days worth of work to change to O-rings.
Great video. Did my 2010 Sierra last night. Took about 4.5 hrs
Thanks for the tip on that hidden bolt behind the intake. Im in the middle of this job all i have left is to remove those 10 mil nuts
This was a great video. It looks easier than the 99-06 trucks ive done!
What all else can I replace if I'm going through all this trouble to get the heater core replaced? Should I also do the evaporator core? heater air door actuator? Blower motor? I would hate to just replace the heater core then then something else buried in the dash goes out and I have to tear it apart again..
Just wanted to say thank you very much for a Very detailed video I was trying to install the stupid snap on heater core hose adapters because mine was leaking put it all together started to truck and it floated the inside with antifreeze So I used your video to get to the heater core to find out after I purchased a new 1 that I didn't break mine the tubes going into it has the stupid little clips that holds the tubes in place that popped off from me Pushing so hard trying to get the snap on the outside was wondering if all those trucks are like that the new one that I purchased was wrong didn't have the removable tubes
Thank you for the comment . I'm not sure if they are all like that , a lot of times they will redesign parts .
After watching the video, I understand that I need to take my truck to the shop
I got faith in you , You can do it .
Thanks! This will be a big help.
the day i smelt the antifreeze when i turned my heater on, the dread set in.
Hey! What the heck ? I was looking forward to the cussin' and skinned knuckles on re-assembly !
LOL , sorry to disappoint . This comment made my day . Thank you .
Great video. I thought I would try to handle this job myself, but after seeing all that is involved .......NOPE. I curse GM for making it so complicated. That cracked dash is too common. Mine is the same condition. What ever happened to making products that last and easy to work on?
AMAZING video! This was a life saver. I am to the point where I have the Heater Box on my bench but I NEED HELP ASAP!
How the heck do I open up the Heater Box to remove the Evaporator?
I took out all the screws and unclipped wire harness but there are all these points that seem to be welded plastic along the seam. They look like little black donuts. Am I supposed to cut these I have no idea what to do without destroying the heater box?
Can I use Permatex high temp gasket maker to reseal the box when I put the two halves back together?
Try drilling them , Then put screws back in place of the weld .
I second that. My box was also sealed with plastic seal points all the way around. I drilled them out with 5/16" bit and it was big enough to break the plastic connections. When I tried a 1/8", that wasn't nearly big enough and I couldn't get the housing open.
Now I just need to get some screws to put in there to fasten it up. GTG!
Awesome video saved me some time
Your video was awesome bolt for bolt connector for connector! Came out first shot!!!
Thank you , Glad it helped you .
Looks like a great job for me and my vertigo....LOL I get sick laying on my back working above my head. Just looking up under a dash get me dizzy. LOL
Lol , My back is paying the price today from laying under it .
@@heartlandmechanic Ohhhh I can imagine....LOL
This looks similar to my 2003 trailblazer dashboard removal
This is going to be first experince pulling a dash, wish me luck.
Good luck .
Wa are the bolts on bulk head for?
Thank you.
Is the drain in the lower hvac box just a tube that goes straight out, or is there anything else in there?
I see its surrounded by that beer can shaped plastic.
My dash is so cracked I can basically remove the top of the dash that’s under the carpet dash cover. I believe I have a heater core leak and was going to bypass the heat down here in FL but I’m considering cutting the box enough to let the core slide toward the back of the car enough to lift it out of the top of the dash without 8 hours of insanity. Nothing I hate more than working on a vehicle I don’t care about.
Lol . I know what you mean .
Got to be a better way even if something needs to be cut!
great video!
those damn 13mm by the windshield had me stumped!!
Mahalo!!!
Do you remember how many hours this calls for ? Thanks
Around 7 to 8 hours .
@@heartlandmechanic Thanks brother , and thanks for the upload ! Nice work.
Q: My old evap core has a clear yellow oil in it. I thought only the ac compressor had oil in the AC system.
So I take it there is oil in the accumulator / evap core too?
Q: Would the oil be added after everything is installed and put back together?
OIL CIRCULATE'S THRU THE WHOLE SYSTEM , ADD 2 OZ. OF A/C OIL , YOU CAN ADD IT STRAIGHT TO THE EVAP CORE ARE YOU CAN PICK UP A CAN OF OIL CHARGE AND ADD IT TO SYSTEM THRU THE GAUGES .
@@heartlandmechanic got it. Thanks!
That’s a lot of trouble. Bad design
can ubget away with removing the lower dash panel and just dropping the steering wheel down
Is there o rings or seals that need to be replaced with this evaporator
Sometimes the o-rings will come with a new evap core , If no o-rings come with it you can purchase a o-ring seal kit
I spent my Sunday yesterday doin this to mine, that nut behind the engine IS a pita, I will say it wasn’t too bad pullin the dash. I will rather do that than cuttin the box open, my Silverado is a 2011 and the evaporator had a temp sensor stabbed into it so even if I had taken the easy route it most likely wouldn’t have been put back in right.
How many hours does it go by in "the book" ??
7 TO 8 HOURS
@@heartlandmechanic ah much thanks 👍
Wanted to tackle this on my own because obviously it’s cheaper but does anybody know roughly how much a shop would charge to do this?
About 14 hours minimal labor approximately $150/hr depending what state your in and dealership.
14 hours labor lol of course a shop would say 14 hours and in the process break stuff and not tell you and in reality only take them about 3 hours to do. Scam artist
That part number was unreadable. what was it again?
Don't remember part number , the evaporator came from NAPA AUTO PARTS .
7305632
This guy work for border patrol??
wow! I will stick to my old dodge truck
If you don't have a lot of time don't do the video that simple btw folks cut that band and re tac weld it back together saves half the time
Sorry , I'll try to do better , Thank you for the comment .