Tool Handle Repair - Socket, Tang, Combo?
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- I broke a favorite chisel handle. So in repairing it I take the opportunity to discuss socket, tang, and combo handles and how you can repair/replace them.
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Always a pleasure;
Thank you as always.
-Castor
Shawn, I don't know how else to reach you: I bought a lathe about 6 months ago on the cheap and have been experimenting ever since. Your videos are the most helpful, the most clearly delineated, the most user-focused, and the most entertaining that I've encountered. Heck, I've even watched videos on stuff I'm not doing nor plan on doing. As I watched your first video I just knew you were a teacher. I have benefitted greatly from your work. I still make a lot of mistakes, but not nearly as many. Thank you.
thanks
It's comforting to know that the masters struggle with fixing things, just like I do.
Glad you got your handle fixed.
Great tip.
I was using my 1" paring chisel to chop a mortise in a leg for my workbench (12/4 poplar) and I chipped a chunk out of the back of the handle. Because it's a paring chisel, there's no hoop on the back end, like a mortise chisel would have, in order to prevent exactly this... This is the 1" chisel out of my Narex Premium set that I ordered unhandled. When I made the handles (no lathe,) I used a different species for each one. The 1" was handled with a piece of a sycamore tree that had been kissed by lightning. It has such a unique streak of beautiful red running through it from the lightning burn. Absolutely gorgeous. Anyway, my point to that whole story is that I'm not going to be able to replace THAT exact handle because it was such a one-off, unique piece of wood that I just happened to acquire by being in the right place at the right time. Total bummer....
Nice video. A thought: next time, instead of placing the butt of the handle on the wood table and hitting the ferrule, drill a hole that would catch the ferrule about halfway (maybe your dog-holes are the right size) and use your mallet on the end of the shaft to drive the chisel out ... place something soft under where the chisel will drop.
Good thing that ferrule is strong
Hi, I see a NAREX chisel. It is not very often that you can see something from our small republic in foreign videos. I have great-grandfather's chisels in my workshop. At that time, NAREX was not called that. They are my favorite chisels.
they are good.
I see Narex chisels everywhere! Many, many woodworkers on CZcams use them. They are very popular! I'm getting some myself :^)
What were they called before?
@@thomashverring9484 Richter Special
In Czech history.
Even the Czech Republic had two variants of chisels. Those who were lucky got their hands on the export version, which was significantly better than for us.
@@meriscz And now they make Narex Richters that are extra good quality!
thanks
Tap tap taparoo!
I found a tool box beside the road a couple weeks ago and it had tons of tools in it. A couple of pretty nice chisels with handles just like yours. Split down the middle. I wedged the crack open just enough to get lots of glue in the crack and then squeezed them together. I have used them some but am curious to see if they last. Glued wood is supposed to be stronger than the wood itself.....
I love you channel . I 70 yr old and just stater woodwork I built the work bent and it will be
outdoor not in thr rain what kind of wood could I get? thank you
If it's not in rain use what's available.
thank you
It is a bummer that the handle was broken. It just reinforced my believe that Japanese bench chisel is better designed with the metal hoop at the end of the chisel handle(Chinese woodworker add metal hoop to their chisel handle too). Though I can see Veritas did put in a lot of effort to make the chisel to last a lifetime. It is just that without a metal hoop at the end, it can't take excessive blows.
it's a bench chisel not a mortising one so I was abusing it a bit. I have a second set of Narex (black handle) chisels on the wall with the hoop for chopping I was just stupid.
The metal ring is a striking ferule and they are common on many chisels. Most brands sell lines with or without striking ferule, also with striking ferules on chisels that aren't mortising chisels.
@@thomashverring9484 I agree. The hoop on the Japanese chisel is much thicker than most chisels sold with a hoop though. Whether the extra thickness is necessary or not, I don't know.
@@vinceLi3096 I doubt the extra thickness is necessary, I think that's just a traditional thing. You will have to beat a chisel very hard to break a metal striking ferule of any thickness 😅
Drill a hole down threw the middle and insert a carage bolt epoxy it in and clamp the broken wood fixed now beat on it .😊
What chisel do you have left to complete your set?
I was about to ask this same question.
First visit here but god does this guy love himself. Won’t be returning and switched off after ten seconds.
ha
He’s got an understanding of woodturning and woodworking tools that is paralleled by almost nobody alive today. If his flamboyant personality isn’t for you, feel free to turn away, because he is consistent across every one of his videos. Just know that there will be good bits of info you will never hear from anybody else, and your craft will suffer from that until you’ve learned not by instruction, but by experience. His presentation style isnt my favorite either, but thats not why I tune in on a regular basis. A wise old man once told me, “The early bird may have the worm, but more often than not it is only the second mouse will have the cheese.”