Tried this and was floored. Using this method got the arm sweat stain off my Les Paul I hadn't been able to buff out for decades using guitar polishes.. It looks brand new, sealed and removed every single one of the little scratches and swirls it had from the years. This doesn't work good, it works PERFECT. Do have to say though that I did take the time to go find all of the exact same products Will is using here, and followed his instruction exactly like he lays it out, you do that, and there's no way you can't do a fantastic job. Every guitar I own looks like it just rolled off the assembly line now. THANK YOU SO MUCH WILL!!! Very awesome to share your knowledge with us all and we greatly appreciate your time!
Re: Guitardoode's - I'm working through a couple of projects right now, and every time I research this video, I am reminded of the points I forget. My advice is: WATCH THIS OVER AND OVER AGAIN UNTIL YOU GET THIS PROCESS DOWN THROUGH EXPERIENCE! Slow down. MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. Trust me... I have had to redo a lot of things because of impatience.
I also used this method on my 30-year-old Les Paul custom today and am awestruck by how well it came out. I had to use a D/A instead and was nervous about it but I decided that needed to get done at some point in time. The final product was very good as I wiped away thirty years of arm sweat and all those tiny scratches. I may not have attacked it hard enough with the rubbing compound as I still have a couple of small hazy spots left but I'll get those on my next go-round next year. Those four compounds did the trick and did not burn through as long as the pad kept moving. I'm very happy to have found this video... as instructional as though we're students of his.
I'm working through a couple of projects right now, and every time I research this video, I am reminded of POINTS I FORGET. My advice is, WATCH THIS OVER AND OVER AGAIN UNTIL YOU GET THIS PROCESS DOWN THROUGH EXPERIENCE! Slow down. MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. I have had to redo a lot of things because of impatience. It costs money AND time. Thanks again, Will. You've already upped my game greatly
I watched the whole series from beginning to end. By far the best videos on CZcams for creating a sunburst finish! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us! I feel confident that I can create a quality finish on my guitar kit now. I learned so much...thanks again!☺
Just followed your exact steps and process using the exact same products. I am absolutely amazed on how it turned out. Can't thank you enough for this video! Cheers!
This is how I like to keep my garage. Everything is well lit, organized, and I never keep anything that I'll never use. Better to throw it out rather than accumulate a bunch of junk to get in the way!
Will, I've watched and rewatched several of your videos. I so appreciate your through advice. I hope my daughter's guitar turns out halfway decent. Tomorrow I finally polish!
Thank you. After searching for a few months for a finishing system/method that was simple and relatively inexpensive I decided to go with what you have presented in your video. I finished my first guitar with fine result. Thanks you for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate it.
To polish the edges of any flat sided guitar, I use the SIDE EDGE of the buffing pad, and wet/apply compound to the sides of the pad and work on the sides while the body is lying flat.
Thank you for the informative lesson. I used Scratch Out ( plexiglass cleaner), a dual action buffer (~3500 rpm) and Chemical Guys BUFX_107_HEX5 Hex-Logic Ultra pad to remove swirls from my Martin Custom Guitar (~$10,000). And guitar now has a pristine finish. This pad works great!
@Ken... yes, this procedure works great for any type of finish. The thing w/Nitro is, you have to wait until it cools down (after buffing out) before you wipe the finish down. The buffing pad and compound actually "melt" the top of the lacquer slightly, and when you're done with the buffer, let the finish cool down for about 5 minutes before cleaning/wiping. But, if you do this to a satin finish, you'll end up with a glossy finish .... is that what you're going for?
THANK YOU WILL!!! I have been struggling with finishes for quite a while. I'm building Latvian Kokle's (a baltic psaltry) and get 50-100 hours into something only to screw it all up with an amateur finish. You're details and step by step has given me the best results by far! One thing I'd like to add (if someone is nosing around for help with acoustic finishes), if you're lacquering raw softwood (w/o the sunburst) such as spruce, a french polish type application (piece of sponge wrapped in cheese cloth) of clear dewaxed shellac before the lacquer seems to even everything out and makes the finish even better.
Really great tutorial. I just bought an LP Custom that someone has scratched all over with what looks like a kitchen scourer. I'm planning on polishing it out myself and this is exactly the information I need.
Well, it looks like I'm learning the hard way how important the prep and sanding is. These buff and polish videos are awesome. The smooth, mirror finish is incredible... but when I shine the light just right I can see what I think is the bad sanding technique in between the lacquer coats. Looks like I'll be covering those high gloss swirls with a satin finish. I guess that's why we work it out on an inexpensive kit, and work our way out... and up. (And I'm all ears for hot tips.) Your videos are priceless, Will. Looks like I'll be back trackin' before I get rolling on my more expensive LP Jr. Thanks again, Sean
@Quad1000, Yes this works with ANY clear coat finish. The thing is, with acoustic guitars, the clear coats are much thinner typically than an electric guitar. Plus, there's a lot more "open" or exposed pore wood surfaces on an acoustic (the entire inside of the box is unsealed, unfinished wood) so you have to be careful when polishing and using wet buffing compound. Tread lightly with acoustics, but this does a great job period ...
+Will Kelly any good Auto Parts or Auto Paint Store will have the necessary supplies ... The polishing pads fit on to a 3/8" drill chuck, and the compounds are usually marked for relative abrasiveness ... I use "KIT" Plexiglas polish for my fine polishing, it does a fantastic job and is finish friendly ... Use one pad for each compound type, so you don't cross contaminate them with other abrasive types
I'm so glad that I "accidentally" got on to this site....was trying to find some buffing compound for my new Jazzmaster paint job....this was my first paint job on a guitar body....I used nitrocellulose lacquer in "spray cans".......next time, I will grease my wallet hinges and get a good spray gun to do the painting....lesson learned. I'll got look for all those items as Stew Mac has everything on B/O and can't wait that long at "holding my breath". Fortunately, I have the old Johnson Paste Wax I used on my wooden floors so that is one item I won't need. I will be doing all the buffing/polishing by hand so this will take some time...I know, I'm just a masochist and love pain ! ! ! Thanks a lot Will for this instructive video.
I had similar success as Guitar doode. I Have a Gibson SG that my strumming arm dulled the lacquer decade's ago. I was able to bring back the original gloss without thinning the finish to much. I used similar products but not the same brand names. I just made sure I used the same "heavy, medium,fine method" and it turned out great.
Nice video, great job! For old bodies I like to use the 4" pads. They allow you to work around areas that need to be taped off. Also, I use a German car product Klass Glaze as my final application. 3K grit wet, MG's cut, MG's Medium, MG's Polish, Klass All in One Cleaner wax and finally Klass Glaze. POP! I may have to work in the Kit product on my next batch.
Hi Will, what a great series of instruction videos - thanks for putting them "on da 'Tube"! I'm lucky to have stumbled across 'em right now, as I'm just about to do some major work on one of my basses - including a total refin. Hey, that's what I call perfect timing! :-) I also dig your way of taking your time, guiding the viewer through the individual steps in a very calm and most informative fashion. Although I've done quite a bit of guitar (re-)finishing before, I've found that there's still so much to learn, and I can hardly wait to get started with my next project. All the best & kind regards from Heidelberg, Germany
I'd really start with no higher than 800 grit/wet. The wet factor increases the abrasiveness so it's really the equivalent of using 600. Be very conservative and DO NOT sand edges ... wipe the surface constantly and clean the sandpaper constantly for the most professional results. Good Luck@!
your videos are incredibly helpful. watching other ones as well to get more of an idea of the sort of thing I need to do, but your's are more descriptive and thorough. thanks from leeds, uk!
Mathius, I do show how to buff the sides, if you'll watch the video... just turn the buffing pad ON IT'S SIDE, and use the edge to buff the sides. The cutaway needs to be polished and buffed by hand, using soft cloths ... don't try to force the 5" foam pad inside the cutaway, it's too tight to fit... You can always buy smaller buffing pads w/arbors, such as those made for cleaning Auto Rims ...
Thanks for this detailed guide! It's my first time to try and restore a bass. It's electronics are fine, thank God, but the way it looks now is a bit "personalized" so I'll try to fix that and reset the way it looks since it's got a new owner now. 16:46 now this makes me wonder how the pro's in this field do it. 😅 Especially since my newly acquired bass is a around 20+ years old.
My finish repair attempts need to improve. They are poly finish but I'm still going to incorporate some of your tips. I'll be watching more of your vids, nice work :)
Thank you for all the tips! I'm in the process of building my first guitar. Once it is done (Hopefully in a week) I will post a video of my process. I would love a professional critique of my process to make my next project better. I have made a few mistakes so far, but I am hoping it will still turn out good. Thanks again for your help with my project!
Great demonstration. Looking forward to trying these techniques. Only disappointing thing was.... I was looking so forward to you showing your work. Wanted to see that gleam. :-) Thanks again.
great breakdown of the steps and materials needed but I think you may have mixed up the pads you used on the final two steps using the drill - it looks like you picked up the pad marked "KIT" for the fine cut stage and then the fine-cut pad for the Kit plexiglass polish. Probably quite easy to do when you're distracted by making a film of yourself. Anyway, thanks for the great run down on what to do and what pitfalls to look out for - very helpful indeed.
Never seen the neck and body finished and polished before setting and gluing the neck. Would have been nice to see the neck being glued to the body after doing so. Other than that this was a nicely done how to series on spray can finishing a guitar.
Very good video, but I still have two questions. How should I polish the sides of the guitar? With the same method? And if there are any curved surfaces on the front and the back (the guitar is a Strat), how are they polished properly? I mean how do I avoid "polishing away" the lacquer on top of the curve? (sorry for the bad english)
I feel that the hardest thing about polishing is finding a three or four step product combo that works. Rarely do you see a grit grade printed on a container of rubbing or scratch remover or polishing paste.
Hi Will, Thank you for the tutorial! It helps remove the apprehension that turns into procrastination of me polishing up my older Epi Dot! Is there another video on how to get the same level of success on polishing the sides of the guitars? Thanks!
If you use Meguiars glaze instead of wax, the lacquer will continue to release thinner as it ages. This will improve the tone. The wax seals the lacquer and traps the solvent slowing or preventing a complete cure. A guitar can take 35 years to fully dry depending on the environment.
Ridiculous. First of all, the paint, finish, and wood don't do a damn thing as far as tone on an electric guitar. PERIOD. END OF STORY. On an acoustic it is minimal. Any hard finish is going to have the same type of sound reflection. The finish would have such a TINY effect on tone, no human ear on earth could distinguish the sound before and after doing ANY of this. SNAKE OIL BS
This is the kind of material that needs to be shown in prison curriculum throught the United States. Outstanding performance, master wizardry at its inner most beast mode
Hey Will. Thanks for the video. I tried a slight variation of your technique on the back of an Epiphone Les Paul. It didn’t go well. I used Maguire’s Ultra Compound (rather than the Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound) on a 6” polishing pad I got for O’Reilly’s auto parts. After ten minutes, I wiped off the excess with a 420 GSM microfiber cloth. Since some of the computer dried, I added a squirt of water which made it easier to wipe up. This did a great job of getting out the larger scratches and didn’t leave many smaller scratches, with surprised the heck out of me. Next I used Maguire’s Medium Cut Compound on a new 6” polishing pad which left a ton of little scratches and dimmed the finish. I expected the dimming, not the six tons of little scratches everywhere. Ten minutes later I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. Next I used Maguire’s Fine Cut Compound on a new 6” polishing pad. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. This didn’t seem to do much one way of the other. Next I used Scratch Out on a new 6” polishing pad. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. This brighten the finish and removed some of the smaller scratches, but the overall result was very disappointing. Next Scratch Out on a new 6” microfiber bonnet strapped to a random orbital polisher. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. The finish was noticeably brighter and many of the smaller scratches were gone. Unfortunately, many of the larger scratches left by the Medium Cut Compound remain. Any other ideas? Thanks.
For the larger scratches, you'll probably have to start with polishing papers, maybe around 800 grit and work your way up to 3000 grit, before you start the polishing process. Polishing alone won't take out large/deep scratches
Hi, Will! Thanks for the video. I have one question. How is it possible to buff all those hard to reach areas of the guitar? I mean the areas on the guitar sides between the horns, cutaways. Is it possible to reach there with your normal buffing pads or you should use some smaller/different shape ones? Thanks in advance.
Car wax works perfectly fine on guitars as long as it doesn’t contain harsh abrasives. Cleaner wax this or what contain abrasive. I have been using turtle wax and other Car waxes on guitar’s for about 20 years and have never run into the type of problems that some people are concerned with
Very informative! Quick question about level sanding...I know with the initial 800 grit, you sand until there are no more shiny spots. Any advice for how you know when you’ve sanded enough with the finer grits?
The same answer Jonathan, no more rough spots... You can see the difference in texture between the grits, and when going to a finer grit, the texture shows against the old, rougher finish
I’m coming in new to the dance (3 plus years after the fact). That said, I believe the water you spray on the pad and the guitar to keep it moist throughout the process, is the “distilled water with one drop of soap in it”? Is that a correct assumption? Also, realizing that various soaps have various makeups (lotion/softeners [i.e. Palmolive], substances to break down oil/petroleum [i.e. “Dawn”]) which soap do you recommend, or use, for that magic single “drop”? Please advise and THANK YOU for these ridiculously perfect and well produced videos. I sure hope you got paid, or get paid, by all of the manufacturers endorsed within. You did a heck of a job Will! Sincerely...🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
Hi Will, should I start the buffing after the last layer of lacquer cured ? or add a final wet sand before that? I guess the polish flatens things out anyway, but wanted to ask to make sure.
How to avoid buckle scratches....pull your belt around to your side so the buckle is not at the front. This is also a good idea if you try out a guitar in a store. Ref cleaning guitar body for years I have used "Duraglit" a metal polish (Yes metal polish)in the form of wadding impregnated with cleaner, I know you can get Duraglit on ebay. Always remember what we each say is merely our opinion, you have to try to agree or not.
I did a nitro finish over a cerused finished ash…..now I’m paralyzed by the fear of wet sanding an uneven finish….any tips. I ended up with a light nitro (13-14 light coats) and yet you still have a sense and a feel of the grain from the brush tear out in prep for grain filling. It’s beautiful but not sure of what to do now. The unevenness of the grain has me concerned I will blow through the high spots and create a strange(Bad looking) finish. Anyone out there been down this road….any tips? I had to do one of the few finishes that isn’t covered that well on YT or forums. Damn me for ever seeing a Collings!
the beauty of Nitro is that you can apply coats OVER and OVER ... so, start flattening the finish by light wet sanding very conservatively, then once you start getting level, spray a couple of thin "flash" coat of Nitro to even it out, and then try some light wet sanding again. Eventually the finish will flatten out, and you will NOT have burned through the clear coat ...
Hello Will, GREAT tutorial vid! I even watched it twice, then subscribed. Two questions though; I get that the water bottle has distilled water. But you mention "it has just a drop of soap". What kind of soap? Is it the Wndx? And also the manufacturer has been censored for the #1 med cut and did the same for #2 fine cut, can you at least give it's initials? Thanks again for the great tutorial. God Bless, A.S.
Hello there, nice tips, but i got some doubts, how do we do the inner side of the horn and the top of a Les Paul where some of the surfaces are uneven ?!
Hi Will, thanks for this very helpful video. I did follow you put a drop of something into the distilled water, but I did not catch that well. Can you please let me know what that is? A drop of soap? Or? Thanks, Tony
I'm going to embark on your well detailed method. Do you wash out your pads at any point? If so, with what? Would it be advisable to remove all hardware before polishing procedure or can they be covered?
Interestin vid- thanx for sharing. I've restored a few guitars, but the "finishes" are a bit of a mystery. It would be nice to avoid luthier buffer wheels (that are expensive), but I do wonder what RPM your drill needs to be turning for a good buffing speed? 500 RPM? My old drill might be too fast. Ryobi Drills (as seen in the vid) can be set to 500 RPM, so that might do the job? Currently, I am restoring an old 70s acoustic. Front finish is fine, back is another story- heat damage - cracking the finish - needs to be removed, then a new finish applied- trouble is... I dont know where to start? Do I sand it out, then re-varnish, then buff it out? Which sandpaper should be used? Which varnish? Do I use varnish at all? Advice welcomed...
The optimal RPM for buffing depends upon what type of material you're working on... Too fast will melt/burn the finish of softer materials like lacquer, and too slow won't work well with harder materials like Poly. To remove the old finish on an acoustic, you have to know what youre working with... if it's lacquer, then you can use some Thinner and mesh pads, if it's Poly, then all bets are off ... I've had alot of success with freezing/cracking off really thick Poly finishes, but since there's no chemical that will remove it without damaging your guitar, I'd say very careful sanding if it's Poly. As far as all you other questions, watch some of my videos on "How to Spray a Sunburst Finish" and it'll answer all your questions ...
Applying wax (Carnuba is excellent) around any raw wood (screw holes, holes used for mounting Tune-O-Matic bridges and tail pieces, etc.) will protect the wood from swelling. Just use a Q-tip to apply the wax. When buying wax make sure it doesn't contain bees wax. This is why Brazillian Carnuba wax is best.
Tried this and was floored. Using this method got the arm sweat stain off my Les Paul I hadn't been able to buff out for decades using guitar polishes.. It looks brand new, sealed and removed every single one of the little scratches and swirls it had from the years. This doesn't work good, it works PERFECT. Do have to say though that I did take the time to go find all of the exact same products Will is using here, and followed his instruction exactly like he lays it out, you do that, and there's no way you can't do a fantastic job. Every guitar I own looks like it just rolled off the assembly line now. THANK YOU SO MUCH WILL!!! Very awesome to share your knowledge with us all and we greatly appreciate your time!
Oh that's nice :) We can see your joy !!
fountain of youth for you precious guitars ^^
Re: Guitardoode's - I'm working through a couple of projects right now, and every time I research this video, I am reminded of the points I forget. My advice is: WATCH THIS OVER AND OVER AGAIN UNTIL YOU GET THIS PROCESS DOWN THROUGH EXPERIENCE! Slow down.
MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE.
Trust me... I have had to redo a lot of things because of impatience.
1. Get piece of paper
2. Get o pen
3. Write down steps, pause video if you need extra time for extra little details.
What size buffing pad? 5 or 7 inch?
@@Xxmeca421xX i use 5" and 10
' pads
Wish we could see more of this guitar after all is said and done. Such a beautiful job done.
I also used this method on my 30-year-old Les Paul custom today and am awestruck by how well it came out. I had to use a D/A instead and was nervous about it but I decided that needed to get done at some point in time. The final product was very good as I wiped away thirty years of arm sweat and all those tiny scratches. I may not have attacked it hard enough with the rubbing compound as I still have a couple of small hazy spots left but I'll get those on my next go-round next year. Those four compounds did the trick and did not burn through as long as the pad kept moving. I'm very happy to have found this video... as instructional as though we're students of his.
Viewed this video, and applied the resulting wisdom to several different woodworking projects. Results were amazing, thanks for video, J
I'm working through a couple of projects right now, and every time I research this video, I am reminded of POINTS I FORGET. My advice is, WATCH THIS OVER AND OVER AGAIN UNTIL YOU GET THIS PROCESS DOWN THROUGH EXPERIENCE! Slow down. MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. I have had to redo a lot of things because of impatience. It costs money AND time.
Thanks again, Will. You've already upped my game greatly
I watched the whole series from beginning to end. By far the best videos on CZcams for creating a sunburst finish! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us! I feel confident that I can create a quality finish on my guitar kit now. I learned so much...thanks again!☺
Just followed your exact steps and process using the exact same products. I am absolutely amazed on how it turned out. Can't thank you enough for this video! Cheers!
Great to hear!
I wish I could rewire my brain so that my shop was as organized as this one.....
This is how I like to keep my garage. Everything is well lit, organized, and I never keep anything that I'll never use. Better to throw it out rather than accumulate a bunch of junk to get in the way!
You should see my workshop and especially my workbench. A messy workspace is a sign of genius.
Check out Joe Dispenza on rewiring your brain.
Fill boxes with all your junk, slowly empty out boxes and put things away the right way. That's the only method that works for me 😁
Listen to organization hypnosis audios.
Will, I've watched and rewatched several of your videos. I so appreciate your through advice. I hope my daughter's guitar turns out halfway decent. Tomorrow I finally polish!
Thank you. After searching for a few months for a finishing system/method that was simple and relatively inexpensive I decided to go with what you have presented in your video. I finished my first guitar with fine result. Thanks you for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate it.
I really appreciate the time and work you put into making this video. Such a big help on my project... Thank you!!!
To polish the edges of any flat sided guitar, I use the SIDE EDGE of the buffing pad, and wet/apply compound to the sides of the pad and work on the sides while the body is lying flat.
Thank you. I'm currently building a Precision Guitar Kit myself and it is coming along fine. It will be that much better because of your video.
Best of luck!
Thank you for the informative lesson. I used Scratch Out ( plexiglass cleaner), a dual action buffer (~3500 rpm) and Chemical Guys BUFX_107_HEX5 Hex-Logic Ultra pad to remove swirls from my Martin Custom Guitar (~$10,000). And guitar now has a pristine finish. This pad works great!
@Ken... yes, this procedure works great for any type of finish. The thing w/Nitro is, you have to wait until it cools down (after buffing out) before you wipe the finish down. The buffing pad and compound actually "melt" the top of the lacquer slightly, and when you're done with the buffer, let the finish cool down for about 5 minutes before cleaning/wiping. But, if you do this to a satin finish, you'll end up with a glossy finish .... is that what you're going for?
THANK YOU WILL!!! I have been struggling with finishes for quite a while. I'm building Latvian Kokle's (a baltic psaltry) and get 50-100 hours into something only to screw it all up with an amateur finish. You're details and step by step has given me the best results by far! One thing I'd like to add (if someone is nosing around for help with acoustic finishes), if you're lacquering raw softwood (w/o the sunburst) such as spruce, a french polish type application (piece of sponge wrapped in cheese cloth) of clear dewaxed shellac before the lacquer seems to even everything out and makes the finish even better.
Really great tutorial. I just bought an LP Custom that someone has scratched all over with what looks like a kitchen scourer. I'm planning on polishing it out myself and this is exactly the information I need.
Well, it looks like I'm learning the hard way how important the prep and sanding is. These buff and polish videos are awesome. The smooth, mirror finish is incredible... but when I shine the light just right I can see what I think is the bad sanding technique in between the lacquer coats. Looks like I'll be covering those high gloss swirls with a satin finish. I guess that's why we work it out on an inexpensive kit, and work our way out... and up.
(And I'm all ears for hot tips.)
Your videos are priceless, Will. Looks like I'll be back trackin' before I get rolling on my more expensive LP Jr.
Thanks again,
Sean
@Quad1000, Yes this works with ANY clear coat finish. The thing is, with acoustic guitars, the clear coats are much thinner typically than an electric guitar. Plus, there's a lot more "open" or exposed pore wood surfaces on an acoustic (the entire inside of the box is unsealed, unfinished wood) so you have to be careful when polishing and using wet buffing compound. Tread lightly with acoustics, but this does a great job period ...
Sorry, where did you get the polishing pads and where did you get the compounds?
***** Same Here. Does someone knows where to find those?
+Will Kelly any good Auto Parts or Auto Paint Store will have the necessary supplies ... The polishing pads fit on to a 3/8" drill chuck, and the compounds are usually marked for relative abrasiveness ... I use "KIT" Plexiglas polish for my fine polishing, it does a fantastic job and is finish friendly ... Use one pad for each compound type, so you don't cross contaminate them with other abrasive types
Thank you Sir! Been searching for this info a few days. Great video and great demonstration, all the best from old Brit rocker living in Finland.
Super informative. Thank you for sharing. I loved that you showed the actual process instead of describing it only.
Will, Like your shop and it's organization, like your advice and products. Thanks for this knowledgeable video.
I'm so glad that I "accidentally" got on to this site....was trying to find some buffing compound for my new Jazzmaster paint job....this was my first paint job on a guitar body....I used nitrocellulose lacquer in "spray cans".......next time, I will grease my wallet hinges and get a good spray gun to do the painting....lesson learned.
I'll got look for all those items as Stew Mac has everything on B/O and can't wait that long at "holding my breath". Fortunately, I have the old Johnson Paste Wax I used on my wooden floors so that is one item I won't need. I will be doing all the buffing/polishing by hand so this will take some time...I know, I'm just a masochist and love pain ! ! !
Thanks a lot Will for this instructive video.
I had similar success as Guitar doode. I Have a Gibson SG that my strumming arm dulled the lacquer decade's ago. I was able to bring back the original gloss without thinning the finish to much. I used similar products but not the same brand names. I just made sure I used the same "heavy, medium,fine method" and it turned out great.
Nice video, great job! For old bodies I like to use the 4" pads. They allow you to work around areas that need to be taped off. Also, I use a German car product Klass Glaze as my final application. 3K grit wet, MG's cut, MG's Medium, MG's Polish, Klass All in One Cleaner wax and finally Klass Glaze. POP! I may have to work in the Kit product on my next batch.
Thank you for sharing this, it is really helpful for taking care of my guitars!!!!
thanks will, great post, very clear and well presented. will definitely try this at home!
The only thing I would add to this is shake the bottle before you dispense the compound, apart from that I think this demo is spot on
what a beautiful sunburst you put on it ! It's rare to find sunburst on the side of the guitar but it's so preferable
Hi Will,
what a great series of instruction videos - thanks for putting them "on da 'Tube"!
I'm lucky to have stumbled across 'em right now, as I'm just about to do some major work on one of my basses - including a total refin. Hey, that's what I call perfect timing! :-)
I also dig your way of taking your time, guiding the viewer through the individual steps in a very calm and most informative fashion.
Although I've done quite a bit of guitar (re-)finishing before, I've found that there's still so much to learn, and I can hardly wait to get started with my next project.
All the best & kind regards from Heidelberg, Germany
What a great tutorial. Excellent work Will... Very helpful.
What a good video! Just at the moment starting my own project i found your channel. This is very helpfull. Thnx ever so much.
Great videos very helpful...It's a shame though that after all those processes we never got to have a good look at the finished article.
Yeah you're right, and for me at 13:03 it doesn't look good at all. You can still see lots of tiny holes in the finish.
You are an awesome tutor, clear instructions to follow. Will give it a try on scratched guitar soon, maybe starting with 2000-2500 paper first
I'd really start with no higher than 800 grit/wet. The wet factor increases the abrasiveness so it's really the equivalent of using 600. Be very conservative and DO NOT sand edges ... wipe the surface constantly and clean the sandpaper constantly for the most professional results. Good Luck@!
Wetting the surface and the pad is and excellent idea , I tried it the yesterday and things went great.
Thank you.
Who knew there was so much to a good buffing? Thanks!
your videos are incredibly helpful. watching other ones as well to get more of an idea of the sort of thing I need to do, but your's are more descriptive and thorough.
thanks from leeds, uk!
Mathius, I do show how to buff the sides, if you'll watch the video... just turn the buffing pad ON IT'S SIDE, and use the edge to buff the sides. The cutaway needs to be polished and buffed by hand, using soft cloths ... don't try to force the 5" foam pad inside the cutaway, it's too tight to fit... You can always buy smaller buffing pads w/arbors, such as those made for cleaning Auto Rims ...
Holy cow what a great series many questions answered holy cow thanks so much!
Awesome instructional video, thanks so much for putting this together.
Thanks for this detailed guide! It's my first time to try and restore a bass. It's electronics are fine, thank God, but the way it looks now is a bit "personalized" so I'll try to fix that and reset the way it looks since it's got a new owner now.
16:46 now this makes me wonder how the pro's in this field do it. 😅 Especially since my newly acquired bass is a around 20+ years old.
My finish repair attempts need to improve. They are poly finish but I'm still going to incorporate some of your tips. I'll be watching more of your vids, nice work :)
A million thanks for the advice 👍👍
Thank you for all the tips! I'm in the process of building my first guitar. Once it is done (Hopefully in a week) I will post a video of my process. I would love a professional critique of my process to make my next project better. I have made a few mistakes so far, but I am hoping it will still turn out good. Thanks again for your help with my project!
Great demonstration. Looking forward to trying these techniques. Only disappointing thing was.... I was looking so forward to you showing your work. Wanted to see that gleam. :-) Thanks again.
great breakdown of the steps and materials needed but I think you may have mixed up the pads you used on the final two steps using the drill - it looks like you picked up the pad marked "KIT" for the fine cut stage and then the fine-cut pad for the Kit plexiglass polish. Probably quite easy to do when you're distracted by making a film of yourself. Anyway, thanks for the great run down on what to do and what pitfalls to look out for - very helpful indeed.
Enjoyable content, thanks!
Thanks Will.
Old fashion wax always works !
I use a thing called Mr Sheen. It makes any surface very slippery. Great for getting fingerprints of black guitars.
Exactly what I was looking for . Perfect explanation.
Great instructions
Thanks ✌️
Great video!
Great video! Thank you
Never seen the neck and body finished and polished before setting and gluing the neck. Would have been nice to see the neck being glued to the body after doing so. Other than that this was a nicely done how to series on spray can finishing a guitar.
Thank you Will, your video is VERY informative :)
Great vid Will. Off to buy my polishes now. Thanks for the tips.
thanks for this vid' Will K, info is very informative...
So quite similar to automotive paint buffing techniques, That I know how to do 😁👍
Really great info Will. I've been using nitro for some time and you've really made it easy by showing how to keep that finish looking A1.
Good info there. Ive been building a few guitars and Im looking for info on the best finish. Thanks for this tutorial
Thanks for the video, Will.
Very good video, but I still have two questions.
How should I polish the sides of the guitar? With the same method?
And if there are any curved surfaces on the front and the back (the guitar is a Strat), how are they polished properly? I mean how do I avoid "polishing away" the lacquer on top of the curve?
(sorry for the bad english)
I feel that the hardest thing about polishing is finding a three or four step product combo that works. Rarely do you see a grit grade printed on a container of rubbing or scratch remover or polishing paste.
Hi Will, Thank you for the tutorial! It helps remove the apprehension that turns into procrastination of me polishing up my older Epi Dot! Is there another video on how to get the same level of success on polishing the sides of the guitars? Thanks!
If you use Meguiars glaze instead of wax, the lacquer will continue to release thinner as it ages. This will improve the tone.
The wax seals the lacquer and traps the solvent slowing or preventing a complete cure. A guitar can take 35 years to fully dry depending on the environment.
Ridiculous. First of all, the paint, finish, and wood don't do a damn thing as far as tone on an electric guitar. PERIOD. END OF STORY. On an acoustic it is minimal. Any hard finish is going to have the same type of sound reflection. The finish would have such a TINY effect on tone, no human ear on earth could distinguish the sound before and after doing ANY of this.
SNAKE OIL BS
@@ragnaroksangel so true
@@ragnaroksangel TONE WAX 👍
Good video
This is the kind of material that needs to be shown in prison curriculum throught the United States. Outstanding performance, master wizardry at its inner most beast mode
One of the best and well informed video. Does this apply to Piano polish as well?
Nice intro.
Exactly what the husband wanted!
Hey Will. Thanks for the video.
I tried a slight variation of your technique on the back of an Epiphone Les Paul. It didn’t go well.
I used Maguire’s Ultra Compound (rather than the Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound) on a 6” polishing pad I got for O’Reilly’s auto parts. After ten minutes, I wiped off the excess with a 420 GSM microfiber cloth. Since some of the computer dried, I added a squirt of water which made it easier to wipe up. This did a great job of getting out the larger scratches and didn’t leave many smaller scratches, with surprised the heck out of me.
Next I used Maguire’s Medium Cut Compound on a new 6” polishing pad which left a ton of little scratches and dimmed the finish. I expected the dimming, not the six tons of little scratches everywhere. Ten minutes later I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess.
Next I used Maguire’s Fine Cut Compound on a new 6” polishing pad. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. This didn’t seem to do much one way of the other.
Next I used Scratch Out on a new 6” polishing pad. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. This brighten the finish and removed some of the smaller scratches, but the overall result was very disappointing.
Next Scratch Out on a new 6” microfiber bonnet strapped to a random orbital polisher. After ten minutes, I used a new 420 GSM microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess. The finish was noticeably brighter and many of the smaller scratches were gone. Unfortunately, many of the larger scratches left by the Medium Cut Compound remain.
Any other ideas?
Thanks.
For the larger scratches, you'll probably have to start with polishing papers, maybe around 800 grit and work your way up to 3000 grit, before you start the polishing process. Polishing alone won't take out large/deep scratches
Hi, Will! Thanks for the video. I have one question. How is it possible to buff all those hard to reach areas of the guitar? I mean the areas on the guitar sides between the horns, cutaways. Is it possible to reach there with your normal buffing pads or you should use some smaller/different shape ones?
Thanks in advance.
thank you so much great video..
Car wax works perfectly fine on guitars as long as it doesn’t contain harsh abrasives. Cleaner wax this or what contain abrasive. I have been using turtle wax and other Car waxes on guitar’s for about 20 years and have never run into the type of problems that some people are concerned with
... is this a lacquer finish - looks really good - good procedure...✈️✈️✈️
You showed us how to polish the large flat surfaces of the guitar. How do you polish the edges of that guitar?
Thanks! Great info.
Thank you!
fantastic!! thanks so much
why is there no like button ?? LIKE LIKE LIKE, thanks man :D :D I've wanted to polish my guitar since a long time :)
Very informative! Quick question about level sanding...I know with the initial 800 grit, you sand until there are no more shiny spots. Any advice for how you know when you’ve sanded enough with the finer grits?
The same answer Jonathan, no more rough spots... You can see the difference in texture between the grits, and when going to a finer grit, the texture shows against the old, rougher finish
Ok, will take note of that. Thanks!
I’m coming in new to the dance (3 plus years after the fact). That said, I believe the water you spray on the pad and the guitar to keep it moist throughout the process, is the “distilled water with one drop of soap in it”? Is that a correct assumption? Also, realizing that various soaps have various makeups (lotion/softeners [i.e. Palmolive], substances to break down oil/petroleum [i.e. “Dawn”]) which soap do you recommend, or use, for that magic single “drop”? Please advise and THANK YOU for these ridiculously perfect and well produced videos. I sure hope you got paid, or get paid, by all of the manufacturers endorsed within. You did a heck of a job Will! Sincerely...🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
Hi Will, should I start the buffing after the last layer of lacquer cured ? or add a final wet sand before that? I guess the polish flatens things out anyway, but wanted to ask to make sure.
This is exactly what I was taught by my grandfather when I was like 12 years old, its THE ONLY way to polish a guitar
Would would I need to get in the cut outs? The tools for the sides?
How to avoid buckle scratches....pull your belt around to your side so the buckle is not at the front. This is also a good idea if you try out a guitar in a store. Ref cleaning guitar body for years I have used "Duraglit" a metal polish (Yes metal polish)in the form of wadding impregnated with cleaner, I know you can get Duraglit on ebay. Always remember what we each say is merely our opinion, you have to try to agree or not.
I did a nitro finish over a cerused finished ash…..now I’m paralyzed by the fear of wet sanding an uneven finish….any tips. I ended up with a light nitro (13-14 light coats) and yet you still have a sense and a feel of the grain from the brush tear out in prep for grain filling. It’s beautiful but not sure of what to do now. The unevenness of the grain has me concerned I will blow through the high spots and create a strange(Bad looking) finish. Anyone out there been down this road….any tips? I had to do one of the few finishes that isn’t covered that well on YT or forums. Damn me for ever seeing a Collings!
the beauty of Nitro is that you can apply coats OVER and OVER ... so, start flattening the finish by light wet sanding very conservatively, then once you start getting level, spray a couple of thin "flash" coat of Nitro to even it out, and then try some light wet sanding again. Eventually the finish will flatten out, and you will NOT have burned through the clear coat ...
Hello Will, GREAT tutorial vid! I even watched it twice, then subscribed. Two questions though; I get that the water bottle has distilled water. But you mention "it has just a drop of soap". What kind of soap? Is it the Wndx? And also the manufacturer has been censored for the #1 med cut and did the same for #2 fine cut, can you at least give it's initials? Thanks again for the great tutorial. God Bless, A.S.
Hello there, nice tips, but i got some doubts, how do we do the inner side of the horn and the top of a Les Paul where some of the surfaces are uneven ?!
Hi Will, thanks for this very helpful video.
I did follow you put a drop of something into the distilled water, but I did not catch that well. Can you please let me know what that is? A drop of soap? Or?
Thanks, Tony
I didn’t see you mention polishing the roundover or the sides? What do you do about that?
It's easy to keep the drill flat ant not polish on an angle with that body shape you do. But how do you polish the very very round edges of a strat?
I'm going to embark on your well detailed method. Do you wash out your pads at any point? If so, with what? Would it be advisable to remove all hardware before polishing procedure or can they be covered?
Remove ALL hardware that you can before polishing. I don't wash pads, I replace them when they get 'full' of abrasive/dirt
Thank you
Interestin vid- thanx for sharing. I've restored a few guitars, but the "finishes" are a bit of a mystery. It would be nice to avoid luthier buffer wheels (that are expensive), but I do wonder what RPM your drill needs to be turning for a good buffing speed? 500 RPM? My old drill might be too fast. Ryobi Drills (as seen in the vid) can be set to 500 RPM, so that might do the job? Currently, I am restoring an old 70s acoustic. Front finish is fine, back is another story- heat damage - cracking the finish - needs to be removed, then a new finish applied- trouble is... I dont know where to start? Do I sand it out, then re-varnish, then buff it out? Which sandpaper should be used? Which varnish? Do I use varnish at all? Advice welcomed...
The optimal RPM for buffing depends upon what type of material you're working on... Too fast will melt/burn the finish of softer materials like lacquer, and too slow won't work well with harder materials like Poly. To remove the old finish on an acoustic, you have to know what youre working with... if it's lacquer, then you can use some Thinner and mesh pads, if it's Poly, then all bets are off ... I've had alot of success with freezing/cracking off really thick Poly finishes, but since there's no chemical that will remove it without damaging your guitar, I'd say very careful sanding if it's Poly. As far as all you other questions, watch some of my videos on "How to Spray a Sunburst Finish" and it'll answer all your questions ...
Put one drop of common Dish Soap in the bottle, to act as a surfactant ...
Applying wax (Carnuba is excellent) around any raw wood (screw holes, holes used for mounting Tune-O-Matic bridges and tail pieces, etc.) will protect the wood from swelling. Just use a Q-tip to apply the wax. When buying wax make sure it doesn't contain bees wax. This is why Brazillian Carnuba wax is best.
what size pad? also extrafine, fine, medium or coarse? Do you match the "grit" of the pad to the polish? Thank you!!