One day Revell will come out with a clear protective covering for the chrome...we can only hope... I've tried everything and all i get is the reflective chome turning to silver. We can only hope i guess...
Your test of decal fluids shows exactly why I clear coat before putting on decals. Not worrying about silvering, but worried about decal fluids interacting with paint.
The best chrome ever in terms of shine and realism, BUT ABSOLUTELY UNUSEABLE ! Even after 4 months drying, you can't handle the chromed parts, even with cotton gloves ! At the moment, I've rejected it from my workbench, until REVELL find a good sealer for it !
Thanks for your video, really useful! I’m trying to use this Revell chrome spray can over a lifesize mandalorian helmet and I got great result spraying it over a flat black base coat + 2k automobile (spraymax) glossy clear coat. Sadly I tried to seal it quickly (after 1.5 hour) with another layer of 2k clear coat and ruined the chrome. So I finished the can over my ruined previous coat (turned glossy grey), and the chrome worked again! I did sprayed a test piece and will see how long it takes to get the paint to really dry. If it took 30 hours where you are (desert by summer), I guess it will take twice here in France with low temps (18 deg Celcius).
I bought some ChromaAir Chrome acrylic and found it to be good. It will go on over plastic or a black base, which I think is good. It also dries really fast and you can tape over it. I don't do a lot of chrome work, but, I like to respray some chrome on car kits now and then. The ChromaAir stuff is worth a look, and was cheap. As I recall, it was relatively inexpensive too, with a big bottle being $5 or $8.
Sorry for the delayed response. I haven't tried the ChromaAir. As an aircraft guy, I tend to stick with the polished aluminums and airframe sheens (though I do like a good oxideized finish too). What motivated me to try this Revell Chrome was the hype and the $28 price tag. I thought that for $28 it just HAD to be a winner. I was really hoping for a good, solid chrome that shined like the real thing, which this product certainly does. I was quite let down though, in durability. Before I did the test, I was thinking that this would be good for say, an F86 or a P51 fuselage and then get toned down to taste. But it just can't be done. It can't take anything, even decal fluid. Sad, because I was really hoping someone did the impossible. That ChromaAir may the ticket, but I have yet to try it. One day I just might, but as an aircraft guy, I just don't have the motivation. Thanks for the tip, and happy modeling!
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I build more armor than anything, but, I do enough with cars and other kits that, sometimes, I just need a good chrome finish. I think, ultimately, durability is going to be an issue with pretty much all of the products, to some degree. The Chroma Air stuff is durable from my experiences. You can put washes over it like an enamel wash and it won't lift. Tamiya has a new LP jar paint too Sparkling Silver that is really bright. It isn't chrome, but it's bright.
Great set of tests. The last finish is a convincing chrome. It should be smooth enough to not even need decal setter? Or just clear coat it? I'm about to do a B-29, will be my first natural finish... but nah, not $30 for something I gotta decant and then buy thinner, too. You gave me a lot of ideas for my project though. Great vid.
Thanks for the comment. While this is a very convincing chrome, I would caution on anything stronger than water. Because it is so very smooth, decals will be too easy to come off and that's one the places it loses me. I've seen a few guys do the color painting and decal work, seal and cover them, then do the chrome last and finally uncover the painted and decaled areas. Because the chrome has to go on in wet coats, there seemed to be no need for prep work like regular metallics so it didn't look toooooo hard. Just the same, I think the car guys will like this better than the aircraft guys. For a B29 I'd just go with one of the tough lacquers like Alclad or the Mr. Hobby metals. Even AK Xtreme Metal though technically its an enamel.
Hey sensei of the chrome and metallic paint! I appreciate all your time, dedication and the research you have done. For me, as I am resuming the hobby, all the information you provide is very valuable; A thousand and a thousand thanks soldier for your service on this front! I want to ask you a favor if you can make me a recommendation regarding this: I am assembling a Caravelle 1/96 from Lindberg and this classic comes in two aluminum tones; in polished aluminum in the lower part of the fuselage, in the elevators and in the wings, but in the latter two, they have two tones: polished aluminum and a slightly darker polished aluminum. I have the range of metallic colors from Alclad and I thought about applying these two tones: polished aluminum (or Chrome) and black chrome, but now I have my doubts: 1. Which color of these two should I apply first? 2. How long do I have to let the first color dry and cure before I can mask and paint over the second color? 3. Is it necessary to apply Aqua Gloss after applying the first color, to mask later or is Aqua Gloss not necessary? 4. What glossy black color do you recommend using Primer? Mr. Color's GX-2? Thank you so much. Any other recommendation or advice is welcome friend. Semper Fi!
Hi Frank, Here's some ideas for your questions. Keep in mind 2 big things: I live in the desert so drying times etc will vary from yours, and I don't use Alclad often (I use Mr. Hobby products mostly for metals) so Alclad may or may not behave the same. 1) You can apply either of the two first. In fact, by using different gloss base shades and / or lightly sanding it in certain panels, you can use one color of metal and it will look different in different areas. 2) Out here in the desert I "can" usually tape lacquers in 30 minutes but I usually wait overnight as a minimum. 3) I very rarely ever put any clears over metals, it ruins the look. Mr. Hobby Super Metallics are tougher than Alclad, and I can decal and tape them to my heart's content. 4) For Gloss Black bases, I prefer GX2. Important though is that you put it over the bare plastic, it looks better that way. Also, for super results, polish the plastic before you apply the GX2.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 WOW, tremendous tips, thanks! Well, sorry for the last question: Following your advice to use Mr. Hobby's metallic paints to give the Caravelle that "polished aluminum" finish, which paints do you recommend (you mention Mr. Hobby) but since there are two "generations" of these paints like this: From Mr. Metal Color I have the Chrome Silver color (which according to your first videos can be polished). From the second generation, which is Super Metallic 2, I have in mind two colors: Super Fine Silver 2 and Super Chrome Silver 2. That being the case, could you please recommend what step-by-step to follow and what colors of Super Metallic 2 to use for this task, because in your videos you explain very well the procedure with the Mr Metal Color "Chrome Silver". What's more, these doubts help you to make a complete video hahahaha Thank you very much. Semper Fi!
Incase anyone missed the obvious.. he tested the pencil scratch test...then tried to rub the area clean with his fingers. Then said it lost its shine... OR... he smeard natural oils into the finish and just didn't wipe it off. Amazing.
Not sure what you are trying to get at with your comment, and if I am misreading you I apologize in advance...but you seem a little hostile and really come off as someone who likes to go to people's channels and stir up trouble. Here you seem to be accusatory over... what? So let's make something clear: I do not manipulate anything or hide anything in my videos. I have nothing to gain nor anything to lose with these videos. I do them for fun and to help others. That's it. In fact, I have been told more than once that I show "too much" of the subject. So let me reiterate: no hiding, no tricks, no incentive to alter results. What I did, and it is plain for all to see, is the pencil test. And then, like I do with every paint product I test, rub it with a finger...I simply don't see the need for you to make a big deal. You saying "In case anyone missed the obvious" is pointless because I am showing the obvious, out in the open hiding nothing. It got rubbed, by a finger, and it failed. This is not because I used a trickily used a finger or put oils on it. It's because it loses "something" and the shine just goes away. Decal fluids, clears, even a damp Q-Tip pushed a little too hard will ruin it. Mr. Metal Color, Mr. Hobby Super Metallics, and even Alclad pass this test. Revell Chrome failed. Its not a conspiracy, it's a modeling product test and that's all. So let me say it again like I did in the video...the Revell Chrome shows a loss of shine with seemingly any pressure applied, again, even with a damp Q-Tip. It looks really good and is the "chromiest" chrome I have seen, but it has to be babied as it is very fragile. If it loses shine from fingers, it just isn't something I think justifies a $28 price tag. It has a niche and that is seemingly for display of unhandled objects that will not need to be weathered, decaled, masked or painted again. So basically, car trim, fenders....that kind of thing. My opinion stays: it looks good but it is weak. If that upsets you, there is nothing I can do to help you.
WOW, tremendous tips, thanks! Well, sorry for the last question: Following your advice to use Mr. Hobby's metallic paints to give the Caravelle that "polished aluminum" finish, which paints do you recommend (you mention Mr. Hobby) but since there are two "generations" of these paints like this: From Mr. Metal Color I have the Chrome Silver color (which according to your first videos can be polished). From the second generation, which is Super Metallic 2, I have in mind two colors: Super Fine Silver 2 and Super Chrome Silver 2. That being the case, could you please recommend what step-by-step to follow and what colors of Super Metallic 2 to use for this task, because in your videos you explain very well the procedure with the Mr Metal Color "Chrome Silver". What's more, these doubts help you to make a complete video hahahaha Thank you very much. Semper Fi!
I can save you the trouble....all of them turned it into grey paint. Very odd reaction. The only thing that "kind of" left it alone was Vallejo Metal Varnish (the water based stuff that smells like cherries) and the Aquagloss. But even those totally ruined the chrome look.
Would a clear coat if the model might be handled a fair amount? I have some Amtrak superliner car shell bodies that I am spraying down and being the exterior of a model train car that will see movement will probably experience a fair amount of handling.
Everything I tried ruined it. It is pretty sturdy to handling once dried a long time, but I have not found anything, even Aquagloss, that does not damage it.
I'm 8 mins in the video and all I can say is: DUDE, why??? It's paint in a spray can, no way on Earth you should mix it with any kind of thinner before spraying on your object!! Spray paint is ONLY meant to use stand alone direct from the spray can.
That is a popular myth. The reason those cans are not thinned is because the pressure needed to propel them is so very high. Every builder who has been doing this very long and who understands paint and its properties does decanting. Will Pattison, Sean at PrimedModelWorks, Nightshift, Shane Doak, Yowske Eguchi, look at the greats. They all know it. Its been done since the 1960s. I can't believe you never heard of this.
I'm not a fan of thinning chrome. More chrome "particles" per area = more reflection. More thin layers doesn't equate to more reflection because now you are stacking them obliterating the ones underneath making them semi useless. Maybe. Just lay an Elvis post-Army gloss blue-black back and hit it out of the CAN 100% wet like you're killing a roach that really hurt your feelings and you get 90% mirror effect. $30 is cheap considering how much chrome you will need, plus you can't get it anyway, lol! It's cheap compared to $300+ for hydro chrome kits which use some chemicals plus water but at least get you get the real deal chrome or even black chrome. Also, this is CHROME - there are MANY great cheap "metallic"s you can get for your planes so you don't have much use for real chrome. But then, who the f am I ??? 👀
Well, there's something different about this Revell Chrome...and damned if I can figure it out. What I decided to do in the end is I decanted it and put it in glass bottles. It looks like the most unshiny, grainy crap in the world in those bottles, but when you stir it up (I suppose you can shake it too but I don't like wiping the bottlenecks and lids) and use it, it shines like the real thing. How it goes from showing zero potential in a bottle to beauty in results....mystery. I thin it simply because straight, it takes too much psi to push it out of the airbrush. But whether I thin it or not, it MUST be applied in wet coats to shine. It will dry EXACTLY the way it looks when you spray it. Quite the opposite of your more traditionals like Mr. Hobby and Alclad....which you do light coats to build up. (BTW sorry for all the CAPS in here, CZcams doesn't let us italicize or underline). I just wish it had more durability, or *any* durability. That's the fail in this stuff. If you are doing things that never need to be taped, painted, handled much or decaled....its great. But even decal fluids hurt this stuff. Out of the can it behaves the same as thinned (thin very very slightly) and sprayed through the airbrush. I suppose that is because airbrushed or shot from the can, it must be sprayed in wet coats. By thinning and airbrushing it, I can get that super shine but not get that "spraycan sludge" look. As an aircraft guy, I find it unbeatable for oleo struts and mirrors, that's about it. The ones who will love this most are the car guys. Thanks for the comment and happy modeling!
I made this video a long time ago so I don't remember. But when I polish, depending on how much shine I want, I will use Flitz sometimes, Tamiya Fine and Finish Compounds, or on some occasions Maguiars Auto products.
I did, otherwise it just doesn't shine. Nonetheless, it is fragile to any cements or decal solutions even days after drying. Looks good, but just has to be the last step in the whole process.
@@anthonypipia6990 I tried with and without primers and gloss bases and saw no difference. The durability problem isn't adherence, its in the formulation....weak at the surface/chemical level. Looks great, and for wheels it should be fine because not much happens with wheels. But as an aircraft guy I have little use for it.
@@anthonypipia6990 if it were me I would, but for $28 a can....I hope you have a lot of wheels to justify the cost. For one or 2 cars I probably would use something else.
please man if you don't know how to use this paint. then don't mess around with it. And if you can't speak German, don't try. is not very nice to our German neighbors. that would be the same if people from the Netherlands still said Nieuw Amsterdam instead of New York. Because it was Dutch territory 🤔
One day Revell will come out with a clear protective covering for the chrome...we can only hope...
I've tried everything and all i get is the reflective chome turning to silver.
We can only hope i guess...
Your test of decal fluids shows exactly why I clear coat before putting on decals. Not worrying about silvering, but worried about decal fluids interacting with paint.
Problem with this is that clear coating as well its going to damage the paint. So it won’t protect it from the decal fluid anyway.
The best chrome ever in terms of shine and realism, BUT ABSOLUTELY UNUSEABLE ! Even after 4 months drying, you can't handle the chromed parts, even with cotton gloves ! At the moment, I've rejected it from my workbench, until REVELL find a good sealer for it !
Thanks for your video, really useful!
I’m trying to use this Revell chrome spray can over a lifesize mandalorian helmet and I got great result spraying it over a flat black base coat + 2k automobile (spraymax) glossy clear coat.
Sadly I tried to seal it quickly (after 1.5 hour) with another layer of 2k clear coat and ruined the chrome.
So I finished the can over my ruined previous coat (turned glossy grey), and the chrome worked again!
I did sprayed a test piece and will see how long it takes to get the paint to really dry.
If it took 30 hours where you are (desert by summer), I guess it will take twice here in France with low temps (18 deg Celcius).
I bought some ChromaAir Chrome acrylic and found it to be good. It will go on over plastic or a black base, which I think is good. It also dries really fast and you can tape over it. I don't do a lot of chrome work, but, I like to respray some chrome on car kits now and then. The ChromaAir stuff is worth a look, and was cheap. As I recall, it was relatively inexpensive too, with a big bottle being $5 or $8.
Sorry for the delayed response.
I haven't tried the ChromaAir. As an aircraft guy, I tend to stick with the polished aluminums and airframe sheens (though I do like a good oxideized finish too). What motivated me to try this Revell Chrome was the hype and the $28 price tag. I thought that for $28 it just HAD to be a winner. I was really hoping for a good, solid chrome that shined like the real thing, which this product certainly does. I was quite let down though, in durability.
Before I did the test, I was thinking that this would be good for say, an F86 or a P51 fuselage and then get toned down to taste. But it just can't be done. It can't take anything, even decal fluid. Sad, because I was really hoping someone did the impossible.
That ChromaAir may the ticket, but I have yet to try it. One day I just might, but as an aircraft guy, I just don't have the motivation. Thanks for the tip, and happy modeling!
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I build more armor than anything, but, I do enough with cars and other kits that, sometimes, I just need a good chrome finish. I think, ultimately, durability is going to be an issue with pretty much all of the products, to some degree. The Chroma Air stuff is durable from my experiences. You can put washes over it like an enamel wash and it won't lift. Tamiya has a new LP jar paint too Sparkling Silver that is really bright. It isn't chrome, but it's bright.
Chrom! Dying over here LOL. Good info, good vid
Thanks!
Great set of tests. The last finish is a convincing chrome. It should be smooth enough to not even need decal setter? Or just clear coat it?
I'm about to do a B-29, will be my first natural finish... but nah, not $30 for something I gotta decant and then buy thinner, too. You gave me a lot of ideas for my project though. Great vid.
Thanks for the comment. While this is a very convincing chrome, I would caution on anything stronger than water. Because it is so very smooth, decals will be too easy to come off and that's one the places it loses me. I've seen a few guys do the color painting and decal work, seal and cover them, then do the chrome last and finally uncover the painted and decaled areas. Because the chrome has to go on in wet coats, there seemed to be no need for prep work like regular metallics so it didn't look toooooo hard. Just the same, I think the car guys will like this better than the aircraft guys. For a B29 I'd just go with one of the tough lacquers like Alclad or the Mr. Hobby metals. Even AK Xtreme Metal though technically its an enamel.
Was laughing uncontrollably on price!🤣
Jman
So was I, which is what initially got me to try it. You'd think that for so many $$ it would be more versatile.
Hey sensei of the chrome and metallic paint!
I appreciate all your time, dedication and the research you have done.
For me, as I am resuming the hobby, all the information you provide is very valuable; A thousand and a thousand thanks soldier for your service on this front!
I want to ask you a favor if you can make me a recommendation regarding this: I am assembling a Caravelle 1/96 from Lindberg and this classic comes in two aluminum tones; in polished aluminum in the lower part of the fuselage, in the elevators and in the wings, but in the latter two, they have two tones: polished aluminum and a slightly darker polished aluminum. I have the range of metallic colors from Alclad and I thought about applying these two tones: polished aluminum (or Chrome) and black chrome, but now I have my doubts:
1. Which color of these two should I apply first?
2. How long do I have to let the first color dry and cure before I can mask and paint over the second color?
3. Is it necessary to apply Aqua Gloss after applying the first color, to mask later or is Aqua Gloss not necessary?
4. What glossy black color do you recommend using Primer?
Mr. Color's GX-2? Thank you so much.
Any other recommendation or advice is welcome friend.
Semper Fi!
Hi Frank,
Here's some ideas for your questions. Keep in mind 2 big things: I live in the desert so drying times etc will vary from yours, and I don't use Alclad often (I use Mr. Hobby products mostly for metals) so Alclad may or may not behave the same.
1) You can apply either of the two first. In fact, by using different gloss base shades and / or lightly sanding it in certain panels, you can use one color of metal and it will look different in different areas.
2) Out here in the desert I "can" usually tape lacquers in 30 minutes but I usually wait overnight as a minimum.
3) I very rarely ever put any clears over metals, it ruins the look. Mr. Hobby Super Metallics are tougher than Alclad, and I can decal and tape them to my heart's content.
4) For Gloss Black bases, I prefer GX2. Important though is that you put it over the bare plastic, it looks better that way. Also, for super results, polish the plastic before you apply the GX2.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 WOW, tremendous tips, thanks!
Well, sorry for the last question:
Following your advice to use Mr. Hobby's metallic paints to give the Caravelle that "polished aluminum" finish, which paints do you recommend (you mention Mr. Hobby) but since there are two "generations" of these paints like this: From Mr. Metal Color I have the Chrome Silver color (which according to your first videos can be polished).
From the second generation, which is Super Metallic 2, I have in mind two colors: Super Fine Silver 2 and Super Chrome Silver 2. That being the case, could you please recommend what step-by-step to follow and what colors of Super Metallic 2 to use for this task, because in your videos you explain very well the procedure with the Mr Metal Color "Chrome Silver". What's more, these doubts help you to make a complete video hahahaha
Thank you very much.
Semper Fi!
Incase anyone missed the obvious.. he tested the pencil scratch test...then tried to rub the area clean with his fingers. Then said it lost its shine... OR... he smeard natural oils into the finish and just didn't wipe it off. Amazing.
Not sure what you are trying to get at with your comment, and if I am misreading you I apologize in advance...but you seem a little hostile and really come off as someone who likes to go to people's channels and stir up trouble. Here you seem to be accusatory over... what?
So let's make something clear: I do not manipulate anything or hide anything in my videos. I have nothing to gain nor anything to lose with these videos. I do them for fun and to help others. That's it. In fact, I have been told more than once that I show "too much" of the subject. So let me reiterate: no hiding, no tricks, no incentive to alter results.
What I did, and it is plain for all to see, is the pencil test. And then, like I do with every paint product I test, rub it with a finger...I simply don't see the need for you to make a big deal. You saying "In case anyone missed the obvious" is pointless because I am showing the obvious, out in the open hiding nothing. It got rubbed, by a finger, and it failed. This is not because I used a trickily used a finger or put oils on it. It's because it loses "something" and the shine just goes away. Decal fluids, clears, even a damp Q-Tip pushed a little too hard will ruin it. Mr. Metal Color, Mr. Hobby Super Metallics, and even Alclad pass this test. Revell Chrome failed. Its not a conspiracy, it's a modeling product test and that's all.
So let me say it again like I did in the video...the Revell Chrome shows a loss of shine with seemingly any pressure applied, again, even with a damp Q-Tip. It looks really good and is the "chromiest" chrome I have seen, but it has to be babied as it is very fragile. If it loses shine from fingers, it just isn't something I think justifies a $28 price tag. It has a niche and that is seemingly for display of unhandled objects that will not need to be weathered, decaled, masked or painted again. So basically, car trim, fenders....that kind of thing.
My opinion stays: it looks good but it is weak. If that upsets you, there is nothing I can do to help you.
What are you supposed to do if you think you're going to use this paint along side parts that are chrome plated?
WOW, tremendous tips, thanks!
Well, sorry for the last question:
Following your advice to use Mr. Hobby's metallic paints to give the Caravelle that "polished aluminum" finish, which paints do you recommend (you mention Mr. Hobby) but since there are two "generations" of these paints like this: From Mr. Metal Color I have the Chrome Silver color (which according to your first videos can be polished).
From the second generation, which is Super Metallic 2, I have in mind two colors: Super Fine Silver 2 and Super Chrome Silver 2. That being the case, could you please recommend what step-by-step to follow and what colors of Super Metallic 2 to use for this task, because in your videos you explain very well the procedure with the Mr Metal Color "Chrome Silver". What's more, these doubts help you to make a complete video hahahaha
Thank you very much.
Semper Fi!
Personally I like the buffable Mr. Metal Colors over the new Super Metallics.
Thanks dude!
I will follow your advice 👍
I wish you would of shown what clear coats did to the luster or chrome look
I can save you the trouble....all of them turned it into grey paint. Very odd reaction. The only thing that "kind of" left it alone was Vallejo Metal Varnish (the water based stuff that smells like cherries) and the Aquagloss. But even those totally ruined the chrome look.
Would a clear coat if the model might be handled a fair amount? I have some Amtrak superliner car shell bodies that I am spraying down and being the exterior of a model train car that will see movement will probably experience a fair amount of handling.
Everything I tried ruined it. It is pretty sturdy to handling once dried a long time, but I have not found anything, even Aquagloss, that does not damage it.
I'm 8 mins in the video and all I can say is: DUDE, why??? It's paint in a spray can, no way on Earth you should mix it with any kind of thinner before spraying on your object!! Spray paint is ONLY meant to use stand alone direct from the spray can.
That is a popular myth. The reason those cans are not thinned is because the pressure needed to propel them is so very high. Every builder who has been doing this very long and who understands paint and its properties does decanting. Will Pattison, Sean at PrimedModelWorks, Nightshift, Shane Doak, Yowske Eguchi, look at the greats. They all know it. Its been done since the 1960s. I can't believe you never heard of this.
I'm not a fan of thinning chrome. More chrome "particles" per area = more reflection. More thin layers doesn't equate to more reflection because now you are stacking them obliterating the ones underneath making them semi useless. Maybe. Just lay an Elvis post-Army gloss blue-black back and hit it out of the CAN 100% wet like you're killing a roach that really hurt your feelings and you get 90% mirror effect. $30 is cheap considering how much chrome you will need, plus you can't get it anyway, lol! It's cheap compared to $300+ for hydro chrome kits which use some chemicals plus water but at least get you get the real deal chrome or even black chrome. Also, this is CHROME - there are MANY great cheap "metallic"s you can get for your planes so you don't have much use for real chrome. But then, who the f am I ??? 👀
Well, there's something different about this Revell Chrome...and damned if I can figure it out. What I decided to do in the end is I decanted it and put it in glass bottles. It looks like the most unshiny, grainy crap in the world in those bottles, but when you stir it up (I suppose you can shake it too but I don't like wiping the bottlenecks and lids) and use it, it shines like the real thing. How it goes from showing zero potential in a bottle to beauty in results....mystery. I thin it simply because straight, it takes too much psi to push it out of the airbrush. But whether I thin it or not, it MUST be applied in wet coats to shine. It will dry EXACTLY the way it looks when you spray it. Quite the opposite of your more traditionals like Mr. Hobby and Alclad....which you do light coats to build up. (BTW sorry for all the CAPS in here, CZcams doesn't let us italicize or underline).
I just wish it had more durability, or *any* durability. That's the fail in this stuff. If you are doing things that never need to be taped, painted, handled much or decaled....its great. But even decal fluids hurt this stuff.
Out of the can it behaves the same as thinned (thin very very slightly) and sprayed through the airbrush. I suppose that is because airbrushed or shot from the can, it must be sprayed in wet coats. By thinning and airbrushing it, I can get that super shine but not get that "spraycan sludge" look. As an aircraft guy, I find it unbeatable for oleo struts and mirrors, that's about it. The ones who will love this most are the car guys.
Thanks for the comment and happy modeling!
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
What do you use to polish?
I made this video a long time ago so I don't remember. But when I polish, depending on how much shine I want, I will use Flitz sometimes, Tamiya Fine and Finish Compounds, or on some occasions Maguiars Auto products.
If you read the instructions, Revelle says NOT to use clear over their Chrome paint.
Correct, and that's exactly why a point was made of it.
You have to spray it on thick.
I did, otherwise it just doesn't shine. Nonetheless, it is fragile to any cements or decal solutions even days after drying. Looks good, but just has to be the last step in the whole process.
Does this work on metal?
Have not tried it on metal but being an acrylic, I would expect that it will not work on metal.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 most of the paints for wheels I’ve seen our acrylic base though, maybe I need a primer?
@@anthonypipia6990 I tried with and without primers and gloss bases and saw no difference. The durability problem isn't adherence, its in the formulation....weak at the surface/chemical level. Looks great, and for wheels it should be fine because not much happens with wheels. But as an aircraft guy I have little use for it.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 gotcha so you think it’s worth a shot for aluminum wheels?
@@anthonypipia6990 if it were me I would, but for $28 a can....I hope you have a lot of wheels to justify the cost. For one or 2 cars I probably would use something else.
...в балоне оригинальная формула!,и разводить или растворять чем-бы то ни было не желательно......
I'm sorry but the text is coming through in your country's language, and I can't even get it to translate.
....нужно к примеру совсем чуть-чуть,стравливается с баллона и наносится аэрографом.....
please man if you don't know how to use this paint. then don't mess around with it. And if you can't speak German, don't try. is not very nice to our German neighbors. that would be the same if people from the Netherlands still said Nieuw Amsterdam instead of New York. Because it was Dutch territory 🤔
I have no idea what you are talking about. Maybe you are taking my humorous comment as personal or something.
....тееем более что его цена не шуточная....