You can connect your dump load wires to a hot water heater heating element to heat water instead of sending it to a heating element that causes more hot air near the electronics & wastes energy. Thanks for sharing your setup & knowledge.
That's true, but as I said before in prior comments of the same subject, I live in the desert and don't need any more hot water. My tankless propane water heater only is used a couple of months a year, and very little at that. The heat produced in the battery room, is usually in the winter and helps keep my batteries warm through that time, making them more efficient.
@@GBear Gotcha but for someone wanting to go Solar & heat their hot water tank for free using the dump load & a different heating element in their hot water heater works quite well. Speaking of batteries have you done any vids on battery maintenance for lead acid types?
@miguelsalami Yes, before I actually moved out here, I had made a hot water barrel heater for my outdoor shower, but once I got here, I realized it was a waste of time. As for an actual video dedicated to battery maintenance, no I haven't. I have mentioned topping off with distilled water every couple of months, cleaning terminals, etc.
After 3 days of research, I finally came across your video. Really appreciate all the info you've supplied here and it's really great that you take the time to respond and help people in the comments. :) I'm busy 3D printing my first Airfoil vertical wind turbine. I'm looking to design an affordable system to keep a few items charged and operating during loadshedding (It's a South African thing). Not looking to make a profit, just want to help out where I can. Keep up the great work! :)
Like your information. Only thought that comes to mind. Mounting electrical terminals on to wood have risk. Since humidity, accidental roof leak or even a hard driving wind/rain storm, can get the wood wet. Not sure if you are in a desert, but I could never do this.
Welcome aboard. Yes, I am in a desert, and the battery room is weather proofed so rain won't get in. Also note that all wood mounted connections are low voltage. (12vdc) the 120/240v stuff is all in electrical boxes and conduits. Thanks for your concern, though.
dumpload controllers with solid state relays SSR have a longer service life , well if the solenoid is switching on and off Alot because the turbine is in a good wind location the mechanical relays can get stuck on due to the result of endless arcing so many point out, Very Good video for beginners, one of the best ive seen.
Thanks for the input! Yes, there are better systems, but keeping a mechanical solenoid cool is key to longer life. If you have the money, go with the relay unit, though.
The dump load controllers with SSR you speak of are they the ones on the market that only use the AC 3 wires coming in then rectify & control the output to either battery or resistor/dump load? I am trying to take DC from a DC motor wind turbine (DIY) & divert it from the batts once full.
A 3 wire PMA needs a rectifier to convert its ac output to DC, DC can then go to the battery and a digital diverter will keep the battery from overcharge by diverting excess to a dump load resistance.
@@GBear The solenoid shouldn't need a fan. If it's getting hot, it means it's probably not a constant current solenoid, or it's exceeding the rated voltage/current.
You have an incredible handle on this subject and you are a wonderful teacher! Thank you for explaining all of your components in detail using language that we can all understand. Thank you!! ❤
Add on to my above comment ^^ If you ever have some extra time, would you be able to list or link some of the components that you used? So we can copy you!!
Wow G Bear, Thanks so much. This clarifies both systems and answers a lot of questions. I feel more confident moving forward. It's so kind of you to put this together.
Very nice set up. I spread my panels to separate charge controllers and batteries which each are dedicated to a specific task and load. Also I would dump excess load to a hot water heater inorder to storage the excess. Nice work sir.
I only intended to watch just to get a certain answer I was looking for. Not only did I get the answer to my question but I also learned a lot more about things I hadn't thought of. I watched every second and am so thankful that I did. Thank you for taking the time to make this!
Mr G Bear , first of all I appreciate you for enlightening us with this information. Is there a way to communicate, I have a few questions regarding this system. Thank you. @@GBear
the best video I've seen. The only thing i would say is that golf cart and fork lift batteries can be one battery ... like on your shelf. or packaged together as a larger 4000lb !! battery.. .. I'm getting windy.. .. great breakdown! well said..
OMG ! Yes I REALLY like how you incorporated the solenoid into the path of the solar charge controller to the dump load. I was trying to find info to use PMA DC type wind turbines (I am making a small scale 12V 12A old water pump motor into a small vertical wind turbine to light a garden are at night :) Thanks again for posting all this GREAT info! ~C~
Thnx for showing your shelf system on the GH poles. 2morrow I will install a removable shelf (above the potatoes in grow bags) for seed starting. Later on I will relocate the potatoes, remove the shelf and grow tomatoes in grow bags and use the full height of the GH. Best wishes, greetings from Holland
Good Informative Video Sir. I have both in the works. 12V and 24V . The wind system being 24V. Most likely will be going with 24V only at some point. No Obstructions here so I can get away with the turbine only being 10Ft above my roof line. The main disadvantage of using a DC 2 wire Wind Turbines is DC voltage they produce requires heavier gauge wire and does not travel distances as well as AC or Three Wire systems can. They work for stuff like boats but for home use Best to just avoid the things. Well it's Semi Official. Wife works at Wally World and they was informed today to expect the shelves to start being short. The warehouses are feeling the pain. So if there was a Chines product your in need of at Walmart you might want to think about grabbing it.
Good stuff! I don't buy much from Wally World, although a subscriber just sent me a $10 gift if I order food online and pick it up. A lot of imports are affected by the Corona virus. Makes one think if it wasn't by design to quell chinese imports....🤔
@@GBear Got to agree, there is something very fishy regarding Chinese stock exchange and Trumps new tariffs. Here's to bringing back pharmaceutical mfg to the USA and all the other things we consume 👍
I got a fan for that that plugs into the usb port on the controller, uses .1 watt, nice roller bearings, really quiet...the solenoid is like the one on a John Deere...if I ever get these tapered head Japanese screws out of this Honda PMA, I'll cobble one up, all I like is the solenoid...it's got magnets in it but I've got stouter ones, lol..yeah now that I've got 12 batteries I need a windmill...well too many irons in the fire but slowly slowly...when the sun got stronger a week ago the 10 I had would be full and now it's holding more...I have the forbidden bad ones you mentioned...for one reason I have to move them one day by myself as always and I dont have my old John Deere 790 with the front bucket anymore, just my butt...these are like 80 pounds each though...I can always get a fork truck battery later and have 1500 amp hours with the ones I have and it....I have to allow for the time to save up for such a big heavy thing ....but I can get by on what I have pretty well..I just have to do it between rain storms lol
Connecting multiple charge controllers _without_ parallel capabilities will work, but it won't work very efficiently and you'll lose out on a lot of power, especially mixing MPPT and PWM controllers.
Thanks for the video, I have been trying to get info on how to size the wind generator. My off grid system has 3x100 amp lithium battery and 2.1 kw max solar... I need extra when no sun for days but I have plenty of wind.
Welcome aboard Ed! Ok, let me simplify the sizing for you. Since wind generators seldom put out their rated value for a consistent time due to fluctuations in the wind, get the highest rated one you can afford. You'll still need either a diverter or a good Midnite classic controller, the latter being the better choice. Not all controllers can be used for wind, but the Midnite classic is designed for it and is very efficient at it. Take into consideration when going with wind power, max output at what wind speed? Also, 3 bladed units are a better design than 5 or 7 blade units, but size and shape make a difference also. The tower or mast height and strength. My little KT5 PMA has pulled a 300+ pound concrete anchor out of the ground in 60+mph wind. Guy wires need to be steel rope able to handle 3000-5000 lbs of stress in high winds also. Then consider access to the PMA for maintenance. Simple things like bird poop can throw the balance off, causing excessive wear. That brings me to another thing...be sure to check your hub and blade balance before installing them on the PMA for best performance and output. Lastly, consider where the PMA will be located and the distance from the battery bank. Wire size and PMA vs PMG are affected by that distance.
Enjoyed the video. One thing (probably of many) that I haven't figured out yet is how is the voltage from the pma regulated. I assume the voltage will vary with wind speed but you need a nice steady 14.5v to charge the batteries.
Welcome aboard. Yes, the voltage is quite variable from a PMA due to wind speeds. The best way to control it is through a Midnite Classic controller after the bridge connector. I still have mine 'old school' style where the bridge rectifier connects to the battery bank and a dumpload controller monitors voltages in the bank and dumps it if it exceeps capacity. I was going to upgrade to a Midnite Classic controller bit the economy made finances go south.
Been trying to find out more on using more than one solar array and wind turbine system but every where I’ve gone seen to think they can talk the lingo and you’ll understand it. You have answered most of my questions in layman’s terms which I understand. Many thanks And great video look forward to more. And subscribed 👍🏼👍🏼
@@GBear great vids g-bear. My question is more about solar. I’m still stumped on how to divert solar power after batteries are charged. Like to heat water. Is there a simple diverter system that can be triggered by a timer or voltage that doesn’t involve using the batteries. One person mentioned it being necessary to have a switch or relay before the charge controller to prevent micro cycling batteries. Im still very new to all this. Thanks
Hi Spot On. Welcome aboard! Yes, there are ways to divert excess power to heating elements. Below is a link to one type, but the element included with this unit is for air warming. You would need to buy a water heater element in your voltage and subsitute it for the air heater element. I'm not promoting this particular charge controller, just showing you what is available. amzn.to/3yzDi8s You didn't mention the size, output, or even how much wind you get at your location, so I couldn't be specific on what you need or should expect from the setup.
@@GBear I appreciate the help, and thanks! it’s a small solar setup for a shed. I’m really just looking for direction on the concept tho. Interesting charge controller! i just want to make sure that the dump load doesn’t pull from the batteries and micro cycle them as some CZcamsrs mentioned some will. Do this “d” terminals carry the power right from the panels or will they pull from batteries? I haven’t seen charge controllers with a “d” symbol on them before
I use a 100 amp 3 bridge rectifier. And a dump control board and solid state relay and 3 100 watt 3 ohm resisters in paralleled to drag mine down when the bank is full.
Welcome aboard! Yeah, I no longer use those controllers since I got my Midnite classic 150 and Renogy Rover controllers. Like day and night in efficiency!
Great video. Can you explain how your wind controller manages the power cover to control the power taken from the turbine at different RPM or Voltages. This is important for efficient operation of the wind turbine, especially at low wind speed. Thank you.
Way over my pay grade gBear. I think if I was to go off grid somewhere, and I'm not going to but if, I would just hire you and say build me one of those.
Great vid, G Bear. Very informative. Thank you. Im about to build a system on a mountain property we just purchased. Can you recommend any books that you may have read to build this and also have on hand for troubleshooting in a shtf situations. So many to choose from so felt you may be able to narrow it down for me. System I need to build I'd like to have stored power when I return every 3-4 weeks for a few days at a time. Wont be permanently moving up there for a few years or in event we are forced to do it sooner. I just want to do it safely and efficiently so as not to burn half a mountain's worth of trees down. Any advice is appreciated.
@davidthompson1529 Welcome aboard, David. I didn't read any books on this stuff, although I watched many videos on YT. I also have 47 years experience as a General contractor. I'll help you in any way I can, just ask and I'll try to set you in the right direction.
Thank you. I am heading off grid in three weeks and have much to learn. Moving into a home with an existing 1200 watt system, but it's ripe for a turbine.
Go BIG on turbine output, PMA, and be sure to have a solid, steady mast. Balance your blade setup prior to raising the mast for best output and performance.
Awesome, super informative video. Thank you VERY much for sharing. Would love to see a diagram of your system (including parts make and specs). Would also love to hear your thoughts on how to choose a good turbine.
GBear, another alternative to dumping your excess power, feed that extra power into a secondary 14 volt battery bank by using a combination of 6v & 8v golf cart batteries, which requires more current for charging. I’ve been using BatteryMINDers 2012’s for all five battery banks except one AGM bank that uses the BatteryMINDer 2012-AGM model. My golf cart batteries and AGM’s are between 10-15 years old and only need to add acid once a year. I use two banks for Ham radio that requires 13.8 volts. BTW, a PWG also works as a pulse/desulf charger but I like that BLS-12N and I will see if I can buy a couple of those.
Umm you should never shunt of dump into anything that could run out of capacity. You could kill the turbine or your batteries or both or all three: catch things on fire. (10:20 looks a little fire risky to me)
No. It will turn on when the battery bank is over full, but the AIMS and the Midnite Classic also prevent overcharge, so the dump load never activates any more.
@@GBear GBear, thank you for the reply… it seems your video didn´t just enlighten me, but also a huge pouch of people! AIMS and the Midnite Classic will prevent overcharge and the dump load will not be used right? The thing is that I do want to use that extra power but not on that huge resistor, I want to use it on a large water heater and/or another battery bank for gest house. The other thing I´m worried (as I´m using lithium-ion battery) is the micro cycling happening on the battery bank while using the dump load. Can you please give me some insights on these 2 issues?
Good vid & explanation of ur system G Bear. Wouldn’t it makes sense to use ur dump load to make hot water or at least a pre-heater for a hot water system, but use ur excess solar power from ur controllers as well, as soon as ur batteries are full SOC have the controller divert any extra power to ur hot water system. I have a 50ltr hot water system that operates this way on a stationary 40’ bus, a 24v system, 3kw AIO inverter, 2.5kw pv panels & 10 kwh lifepo4. I can run microwave, 2.5kw split air con, H/W system, everything off Solar & heat water for the family of 4 showers daily while fully charging batteries. I have a 24vdc multi power element (300w, 600w, 900w capable) for the H/W system but never fitted it as I use the inverter with a AC voltage/dimmer control so I can adjust the output to the 240vac 1800w element I installed previously, instead of the 3600w element it had standard. I can use the controller to vary the power usage of the H/w system if its cloudy or for other reasons. For my house I have a 5kw AIO 48v system with 10 kwh of pv (grid tied) & 30 kwh of lifepo4, I only use about 20%-25% battery SOC a night on either system generally, higher voltage systems are much more efficient if ur going to use an inverter, & use a step down (or up) converter for lights & light loads to save on wasted inverter idle power usage. Lifepo4 batteries are a game changer now days in so many ways & using a decent shunt ,means you can know very accurately how much power is going in, out & still available. They were PWM controllers u were trying to think of , it stands for ‘Pulse Width Modulation’, but Im sure u know that. Cheers
Welcome aboard. I live in the hot desert, and don't use much hot water at all. I use a propane, tankless water heater that gives me on demand hot water when needed. It is off 10 5 months of the year. My tote-cuzzi outside doesn't have a heater either, and the water is at 90°F or better.
One small correction, the difference is between a PMA and PMG is NOT that PMA is AC and PMG is DC, they are both AC. The PMA is designed for a car originally and the PMG is designed to be a generator and is essentially better in every way.
Welcome aboard. Sorry, I have to correct you. A PMA has 3 wires all the same color, and no specific order of connection, all output, because it is AC (Alternating Current) until it runs through a bridge rectifier which is constructed of a series of diodes and converts that alternating current into direct current (DC) by redirecting multiple inputs to directional input/output. A PMG is a Direct Current "generator" That produces electricity through a 2 wire Direct Current, positive to negative, power with one red and one black conductor. Power out through positive and return through negative. The correction to your statement is: Both PMA & PMG are "alternators", the difference being, a PMG has a rectifier built in, an PMG requires one at the conversion location. This is why a PMA is preferred. An alternator, (requires smaller conductors) for longer distance of run, saving money on wiring, and conduit sizes. Thanks for your comment.
@@GBear I don’t kwow what to tell you. PMA is car alternator. It makes AC. The PMG is a 3 phase generator . It also makes AC. The one i have has 6 wires one sour I’d it. 6 wires coming out of it.
You'll need to determine the treadmill motor output voltage and wattage, and whether your output is AC or DC. With AC you'll need a bridge rectifier that not only converts the AC to DC, but steps the voltage down to your usable battery bank level. You can't charge a 12v battery with 60 volts DC! With DC (PMG) you will also need a step down transformer, but not a bridge rectifier.
Thanks. Yeah it outputs DC. I'm looking into purchasing a 440 power charge controller is what I've read I should use. That with an inverter as the output. I plan on running dc stuff but then a maybe a couple smaller ac things.
Got the same charge controller but my model is 2000 watts. 1000 watts for solar and 1000 watts for turbine. Whole system is 12 volts. The problem is I just bought my first solar panel which is 320 watts and it is pumping 30 volts. It is working fine when it is cloudy but in full sun the controller is shoving error and OVER PV is blinking. I found in the instruction that voltage from solar panel is higher than voltage set in controller. What can I do now? Did I buy wrong solar panel. I was trying to set higher voltage in the controller but the max is 17 volts. I do not understand what is wrong as this controller is made for 12volt 24 volt and 48volt systems. Anybody could help???
Welcome aboard Seb, sorry to hear about your troubles. If only you had contacted me sooner. I found out the hard way that those Chinese controllers are junk. I have since replaced mine with the Midnite Classic 150 and wish I would have just gone this way in the first place. You have a choice, keep that controller and get rid of the solar panel, and only use 12v, 100 watt panels connected in parallel with it, or keep the solar panel and buy a Midnite Classic 150, 200, or 250 for your solar controller and use the Chinese controller for a 12v turbine only. Note that the numbers for the Midnite Classic depict the maximum input voltage, so the 150 will accept 150vdc input, allowing you to connect your 320watt panels in series/parallel. Also the Midnite Classic group will control either wind or solar, but only one or the other, not both in the same controller. I hope this helps.
That's what I'm doing, your content is fascinating. I would love to have teachers like you lol. I have a question, I can always connect my wind turbine to a SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER? Aren't there charge controllers for wind turbines? If so, Is it possible to connect a wind turbine and some panels to the same charge controller?
@@marceloadrianmendodelacruz5451 yes, there are hybrid controllers that handle both wind and solar. I prefer not to use them from experience. I had to cycle through the controller to distinguish between which was producing what. By separating them out I am able to see those numbers at a glance.
Thanks for the info, that makes sense. I'm currently doing a project for my thesis that consist on perimeter lighting for my University parking lot with eolic and solar energy as power source. Your knowledge is gold for me, I appreciate the help! Greetings from Mexico.
@@marceloadrianmendodelacruz5451 in the near future I will be installing a solar powered submersible pump system in my water storage tank to keep the water in motion during the hot summer days. This should help prevent stagnation and algae growth. I just ordered the parts and should receive them in a couple of weeks.
curious will it not damage the battery if you feed the output of the rectifier direclty to the battery ? . Again I am not expert on this just asking to expand my knowledge. do you still need a voltage regulator to match the proper charging voltage of the battery ? feed the output of the rectifier to a voltage regulator or PWM or charge controller ? thanks
Welcome aboard! First, let's start with the basics. You should not attempt to charge, let's say, a 12v battery bank with a 24v turbine. Think of it like you car. You wouldn't replace the alternator with one that outputs higher voltage, right. Now, yes, you 'could' do it using a specific charge controller, a transformer, etc., but it would complicate your system and life, while costing you more. As far as connecting the bridge rectifier straight to the batteries, yes it will damage the batteries unless you also add a 'dump load diverter' to handle overcharges. You could also use a Midnite Classic charge controller set up for wind power conversion, which is the best option, as this allows you to fine tune and adjust the input for best efficiency.
Welcome aboard. I'm not sure what you are referring to, but if it is my PMA, it will generate max watts at maximum wind speed, for as long as the wind maintains that speed.
Thanks G bear!! great explanation, I’m trying similar project too, POC is done and now will need to design a battery bank. 1) how do you wire the batteries together with 2 source of charging ? I’m thinking to add another source for charging but not sure how to wire it. 2) If it’s a separated batteries zoning , how do we ensure the batteries are equally charge? 3) how do you connect all the batteries to the inverter? Do you have a battery bank management system in place? 4) how to detect a faulty battery under the batteries bank?
The reason automotive/car batteries don’t work well is because they use crank amps. Electric vehicle batteries don’t need that initial inrush of amps to crank anything.
Exactly. Car batteries are designed to give a quick burst of power, then recharge slowly, where electric vehicle deep cycle are designed to release power slowly and recharge quickly. 24v aircraft batteries work well for solar, but are very expensive.
You should mention with the solar wire the gauge could be less if the panels are wired in a series vs wired in parallel (more amps require thicker wire vs more volts and less amps and letting the mppt controller convert the higher volts to amps at the controller)
Well said 🙏👏👏👏 a lot of people make this mistake to parallel panels and they spend a lot of money in the cable but the problem is a lot of people use low amps charger(most of the cases cheap ones) and those they can't take higher voltage input like the midle/premium brands(even though there are quite a few cheap Chinese chargers that can take over 100v input and output 12-24V or more)
G. Bear, I have a three-wire wind generator, and common inexpensive potted wind controller that came with it. All three wires from the generator are the same color: Red. And the three controller wires are all the same color, also. Does it matter which generator wire goes to which controller terminal/wire?, or can the hookup be made in any fashion, and still have the same, best result? The face of the controller has a diagram of a three-bladed wind turbine blade, with the center wire of the three controller wires coming from the second (middle one) of the three generator wires. If the order of the hookup matters at all, how can I determine which generator wire is that center wire? Or, as I speculate, since all the wires and terminals have the same color, does the order of the hookup to the controller (rectifier) simply not matter at all? In any case, how did YOU proceed, and manage to get a good result in the hookup? Please help! Others here may have this question, too. Thanks!, --Joe / Tucson ARIZONA
@W7DXW Welcome aboard, Joe! A 3 wire turbine is a Permanent Magnet ALTERNATOR, (PMA), and the order of the wires is not a factor in connections. Those 3 wires connect in any order to the controller you received with it, to the 3 same colored wires on the controller. That leaves a black and red wire to go to the batteries. You may want to order the following meter so you can monitor the power. amzn.to/3zZ6F8n
Thank you! for your help, you've done me a great, good turn (and others here, too, I think, who may have had the same quandary and puzzlement that I had, as newcomers to wind power). I was trying to figure-out the connection scheme for days, and was frankly going a bit stir-crazy, with various mental topological twists and turns, trying to figure out if all the connection schemes are (or should be) in fact equivalent. I even resorted to experiment, and tried different permutations of the connections, while spinning the turbine generator with an electric drill, and always got the same voltage output no matter HOW I connected the wires. I couldn't believe my eyes. You've very kindly settled it for me, now. T-H-A-N-K Y-O-U ! ! --Joe / Tucson
@W7DXW You’re welcome. Yes, it can be confusing to newcomers. The good thing is your test shows it is working properly, having the same voltage output on each combination. The charge controller they provide is basically a bridge rectifier which changes AC to DC through diodes. That's why I recommended the meter. Without a readout screen, you would never know if the power to the batteries was too high, especially with LiFePO4's.
How close to the ground can you have the turbines and have them still work OK? I want to be able to put one up but not have it so high up that everyone sees it, because our municipality I don't know if I can get away with it yet. So I wanted to find out what th eminimum height to get these to work typically is? And because maintenance would be easier if they aren't really high up. Thanks.
Welcome aboard, Noah! If you live inside city limits, they usually aren't allowed. They need to be high up, especially around multiple buildings that would affect air flow. Also, if you are on grid, it wouldn't do you much good anyway, unless it was a very large turbine. Sorry to sound negative, but I don't want to mislead you.
@@GBear Hey GBear thank you for the reply. I appreciate the comments. You weren't negative but just being real. Actually you are probably right. I'm curious if they could be used for camping though, or if it would just end up being too hard for a portable set up with one?
@Noah Riding The higher up you put them, the better they work. Solar is a much better bet for camping, as you don't always have wind, but the sun is pretty reliable. Turbines are supplemental providers, and shouldn't be relied on as the main source of power. After all, who wants to camp in 40mph winds?🤔
Great stuff, thank you! so basically the power from wind is going straight into the batteries ( disregarding the rectifier) not using something like a charge controller like the solar does, correct? Would this same setup translate to hydroelectric, no? (Pelton wheel being spun by water) lastly, where did you get that display showing power and voltage? Or what did you Google for?
Welcome aboard! Yes, 3 phase AC power comes in from the PMA (turbine) goes through a bridge rectifier to make it Single phase DC, then through the "high precision wattmeter", then through a breaker to the batteries. Then a dump load unit or digital load diverter is applied to the battery bank to prevent over charge.
Yes, it is a hybrid controller, but not a good one. Same with the one right beside it. I bought those in my early days of learning and retired them when I found better, more efficient options.
Smart man! We all have to start somewhere and sometimes learn the hard way. I try to share what I learned that hard way to help others save money, time and frustration. Welcome aboard!
This all seems so complicated, and depressingly difficult. Do they make/sell ready-to-go systems, for people of low-tech understanding? Do I really need a shed full of wires and gizmos to get a wind turbine working? I'm looking for a simple setup where the wires from the wind turbine plug into one "box", then the output from that "box" is a cable that I can plug into my portable battery/generator to charge it. This is how it works with my solar panels.
Welcome aboard. Yes, times have changed. You can use a Midnite Classic charge controller after the bridge rectifier. Then just connect the Midnite Classic to your battery bank like you would with solar.
Hi. I am Graham. How do you connect 2 or more charge controllers to the battery bank. Do you do it in parallel to the same battery bank or you split the battery banks so that each controller charges its on Bank. I have tried putting them in parallel to the same battery bank but one of the controllers always get damaged. Please help.
Hi Graham, welcome aboard. They need to be connected to the bank at different locations, and should be set with the same parameters. Also, only one should have the 'equalization' feature turned on. Connect the first one, positive to positive of the first battery, negative to the negative of last battery. Connect the other, positive to last battery, negative to first battery.
just noticed that your wall fan will blow air in the cabin not out... change sides and then it will blow out ;) and your inverter will take air in true front and blow out from back
I don't know what you are looking at, but the fan on the wall near the door blows out. The inverter fan blows towards it and it moves the air out through the vent. The fan on the other side feeds air into the inlet side of the inverter.
@@GBear your bridge rectifier fan blows towards rectifier... wall and inverter fans are blowing same directions... fan sticker is always where air comes out from it ;)
Hey FRIEND! Touching base with you! Interested in learning how much power it generates. It 12volts you say. 1685 watt??? Got to have 90 mile/hr wind…that is rare!
Needs 90mph wind to produce 1685w. It starts producing at 9mph, but only about 30-40w. Normal winds here will reach 22mph and I can get a few hundred watts out of that. I have seen over 1000w in a wind storm with gusts of 45mph.
@@GBear I love my portable wind and solar setup. I can tow it with my camper and use it to power my house at home. It took me 400 hours to weld drill and bolt cut and wire everything on it.
@@GBear yes i have made several because I am always finding something else to upgrade or do differently and even better than the first go. I am never finished with it.i am always adding something.
You should blow air in from outside, not suck 'hot air' out heat rises. Your extraction fan is too low and will actually bring the hot air from the ceiling down past your inverter
Hello G Bear, thank you for the very informative video. There are so few of these videos going into wiring details. I had a few questions as we are also installing a turbine, but this is in Wales UK. I am learning as I go along so please bear with me. The setup is a 5Kw turbine, standard three-phase (three magnets), 300 yards from the house. 48v batteries with a 5kw controller. I have laid 2 x 10mm cables from the turbine (instead of 3) does the controller now have to be located at the turbine site as it has a three-cable ac input? Or, could a rectifier be put next to the turbine to convert to the two cables? Any advice is appreciated, Dan
Hi Dan, welcome aboard! Since 2 rectifiers can't be used on the same PMA, you would need to mount the controller at the PMA. The problem is, if you do that, then you need to use larger diameter wire from the controller to the load. The reason we choose a PMA over a PMG is to save on conductors (wiring size). It looks like your best option is to run a third wire from PMA to controller.
Dear G.Bears We thank you for your clarity of your videos ,very clear speach of yours ,and properly technical placement of all the aspects concerning what else....Energy. I have one question .We all know that somehow china is the center of our planet for most of the things that we all days we need.One thing that strikes my mind is the Wind Generator issues.They shout 1,5 KW 2 KW etc and there are plenty of videos that they measure their output and the result is so dissapointing to the thechnical world.I really wonder how Not even one [to my knowledge] has not tried to create a wind generator from a truck Alternator which they really have good output but of course need long wings and strong wind.I will continue searching around for an honest wind generator in regards its cost.Also instead of having dump load for the wind generator to drive the cable to the appropriate Resistance of a water boiler so.no energy is being lost cause actually heats up the water inside the boiler. Everybody knows that there are professional people that they construct resistances to your needs AC DC 5 volt 20 volt 100 volt .u just name it.....Best regards.
Too bad you are on the other side of the country, I'd love to help you with the setup, but from here, I worry about your safety while Jerry-rigging power. Where do you set up your panels? The Gustapo will spot them and throw you in the cooler.🫡😆
So what are you using for an inverter? You would need separate ones for 12v or 24v. Also the wattage and pure sine or modified sine wave makes a difference.
@@GBearihave 1500watt pure sign wave for the office i have 1000 pure sign wave for the freezers i have a3000 pure sign wave they are relibles for 24v i have a 25000 i have high dollar charge controllers tristar but don,t whant to mess them up they all have dip switches for setting
If you have some strong young and very good friends an earth bag structure might be an option. Maybe one for the batteries and one for the other equipment. The equipment room could heat the battery room. Eg4 now has a self heated battery, I think it is 13kw and is about $4000. Maybe a suggestion for someone starting out that could be expanded on. Maybe a subject for your new paid channel. We could see some deflation in batteries after we get through inflation going down. Again thanks for sharing.
Not anything I have tried but just something I thought about. If you can get the right thickness of wall you might get it warm enough for the winter and then cool enough for the summer. Maybe do earth bag work shops. Get people to pay you to work for you. 😂
what is the point of having a PWM module connected to the batteries to dump extra power if the power reaching to the batteries from the rectifier are already charging your batteries, won't they get damage over time more quickly provided there is no controller before power reached them after they peek in power? it seems to me that the PWM controller should go after the rectifier to charge your batteries and not later, not a criticism, i'm wanting to build a water wheel generator with either a PMA or PMG and its a bit confusing with all sort of information in the internet on how to connect stuff
Since a PMA or PMG can put out excessively high watts and amps at times, running it through a controller requires a special controller to handle those ranges. I have seen my PMA put out 166 amps, and actually fry the rectifier which was rated at 150A. The PMA is specially designed to operate a 'dump load' system, which puts a 300w load on the battery bank when excess power is created.
Hi 👋🏾 G l know it's been a while, ☺️ just wondering could you use a 12v wind turbine to change a 24-v battery bank, l was thinking if you had a converter 🤔 but not sure what do you think
No, you can't. A 24 volt battery needs at least 25.5v to properly charge. If the incoming voltage doesn't exceed the battery's base voltage, the current can't flow.
You don't mention that another advantage of the AC is that the current in the wiring is smaller so you have less line loss and can use smaller Guage wiring.
The far left green Chinese charge controller is made to be a wind and solar controller. I'm wondering why you are not using it as a wind controller also? Has it held up well?
Welcome aboard! That controller is a small boat anchor. In other words, a piece of junk, just like the one next to it. Don't waste your money on hybrid controllers from China, as they are a joke. The best wind controller out there is a Midnite Classic, either the 150, 200, or 250. Note, that you can't connect wind AND solar to the Midnite at the same time. It's either, or.
How do you run a 240 volt A/C circuit off of the system? Also, why did you choose the 6 volt lead acid instead of a lithium 12 volt? And last, if you could start over and recover all the money spent, what would be different? Thanks Bear, I have learned a TON from your videos!
Welcome aboard David! Ok, running a 240v A/C requires an Low Frequency, Split Phase, 240v inverter. I went with flooded batteries because of cost and amp hours, and lithium doesn't like the freezing temps I can get out here. Starting over? More batteries before the price went up, a better, higher output PMA turbine, Only buying Midnite Classic controllers, Only buying the biggest LF SP AIMS Inverter Available.
I originally had it that way, but couldn't monitor the turbine input at a glance. Knowing what I know today, I would never spend money on a hybrid controller again.
the green mppt has turbine input and dump terminals. have you considered buying another one for the turbine? or is the turbine greater than 600 watts. that green mppt is also available in 1000 watt model too. then you could get rid of the black pwm and its solenoid and use the all in one green controller to open and close the dump load.. also what about getting the 12v water heater element for your water heater tank to further alleviate grid consumption? heck its free energy. might as well right u definitely know what you are doing but you dont get any gold stars for organized wiring lol haha. good video tho. very helpful. thanks
Welcome aboard! My turbine is 1685watts. Those hybrid controllers are junk. I learned the hard way on that. I have since upgraded to a Midnite Classic controller for solar, and still use the dumpload as backup. But it never activates anymore because the Classic monitors the battery bank. I also have a tankless water heater so I don't need the preheated setup. You are in the early videos still, and you will see alot of advancements in later episodes of my playlist. Yeah, the wiring isn't pretty, but it works perfectly, lol. Thanks for your thoughts though.
@@GBear thanks , i will continue to watch. with the classic, when it shuts off charging to the bank, and you are rarely using the back up, how are you preventing over-speed without keeping some sort of resistance on the turbine?
@toobglued the turbine is connected directly to the battery bank. In the future I will be controlling it through its own Classic, which will make it more efficient.
You'll have to google that question for your area. Yes, they sell recycled or refurbished batteries. They are lead acid batteries, very heavy, but very strong.
how did u ground your wind turbine? where did u attach the ground wire? my wind turbine is 20 feet up its on water well poles. how would i go about grounding it?
Drive a 6 foot ground rod into the ground if you don't already have one nearby, then attach the metal tower to that ground rod with at least #6 solid copper wire. The PMA or PMG is already in contact with the metal tower so no wire is needed at that connection.
This video is great thank you so much. I have one question...my energy usage is a little under 200kWh a month, would you think your set up would cover that much power or would I need a bigger set up?
I have installed wind turbine at my house... But due to variations in wind speed, am getting a different voltages based on the speed. So how can I control the voltage and get a constant voltage so that I can charge my battery. Because giving different voltages to the battery will damage my battery.
PMA's will always produce different readings according to wind speed, but a 12v pma should only put out 13.6 volts maximum, just like a car alternator. PMA's will only put out the maximum rated watts when turning at the maximum rated speed for the blades, so slower winds create lower readings and this makes PMA's a poor choice for battery charging. Wind power is only a backup for when the sun doesn't shine.
good info QUESTION for a newbie. What can you actually use this to power in your house? example your tv and a few lights? how long do all those batteries last if the wind power and solar is off? thanks man, just trying to learn here.
G-Bear... wife and I are headed off grid and looking for a 48 volt wind turbine for our 48 volt off grid (ALTE PRE-WIRED SYSTEM SCHNEIDER SW4024 INVERTER WITH MIDNITE CL150SL CHARGE CONTROLLER). Will one of these wind turbines work with our system? Thank you for any input. Blessed and Happy New Year to You and Your Family!
Hi Ron! Welcome aboard! So, am I correct in hearing that you already live off grid and have a 48v system using a SW4024? That doesn't sound right. For a 48v system you should have the SW 4048. Also, a CL150 SL by Midnite won't work with a PMA. The SL is Solar Only. I'll need more information in order to guide you correctly, or you can call 877-878-4060 for more info on the Alte prewired system. They can actually configure a system to meet your needs. Note that there are 2 types of turbines. PMA & PMG. PMA is an alternator type with 3 wires, all the same color and needs a bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC before connecting to a charge controller. Also, you need to be sure the size of the turbine output won't exceed the voltage input specs of the Midnite, so you may need the Midnight Classic 200 or 250, full controller, (not an SL). Let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Happy New Year.
@@GBear Not totally off grid just yet! You are correct about the 4048! My typing ability is not as good as it used to be and spell check is even worse! I quite comprehend that the PMA and PMG are different in system function. I found it interesting that you had multiple connection points to your battery bank and were also utilizing wind charging. I have not seen this type of charging system/points - and you caught my attention! So - I will have to speak with you or altE to see if our second Absolyte 48v Battery Bank can be charged with wind or not. Modified Sine Wave vs Pure Sine Wave is something I am still attempting to learn. We are building an Steel Building Style Canopy w/ Container to cover our RV while I slowly put things together. The process is slow due to me having a heart attack in Feb '23 - but I am getting strong enough to continue the process. I'll need power in the sea container to supply power to tools while I work and power to the RV when we move to the top of the mountain. Thanks for responding to my comment (I know they are long!) - I apologize for that!
You can connect your dump load wires to a hot water heater heating element to heat water instead of sending it to a heating element that causes more hot air near the electronics & wastes energy. Thanks for sharing your setup & knowledge.
That's true, but as I said before in prior comments of the same subject, I live in the desert and don't need any more hot water. My tankless propane water heater only is used a couple of months a year, and very little at that. The heat produced in the battery room, is usually in the winter and helps keep my batteries warm through that time, making them more efficient.
@@GBear Gotcha but for someone wanting to go Solar & heat their hot water tank for free using the dump load & a different heating element in their hot water heater works quite well. Speaking of batteries have you done any vids on battery maintenance for lead acid types?
@miguelsalami Yes, before I actually moved out here, I had made a hot water barrel heater for my outdoor shower, but once I got here, I realized it was a waste of time. As for an actual video dedicated to battery maintenance, no I haven't. I have mentioned topping off with distilled water every couple of months, cleaning terminals, etc.
this is the most old guy set up every. Nothing fancy and kinda made from rando parts. Love it.
Welcome aboard! Yeah, we all need to start someplace in learning about solar and what it will do.
After 3 days of research, I finally came across your video. Really appreciate all the info you've supplied here and it's really great that you take the time to respond and help people in the comments. :) I'm busy 3D printing my first Airfoil vertical wind turbine. I'm looking to design an affordable system to keep a few items charged and operating during loadshedding (It's a South African thing). Not looking to make a profit, just want to help out where I can. Keep up the great work! :)
Welcome aboard Dillan! Sorry it took so long to find me.
Good luck on your project too.
When you are done I will like one of it
From Nigeria one love man
Welcome aboard! I think you are my first subscriber from Nigeria!
@@GBear thank you sir
Like your information. Only thought that comes to mind. Mounting electrical terminals on to wood have risk. Since humidity, accidental roof leak or even a hard driving wind/rain storm, can get the wood wet. Not sure if you are in a desert, but I could never do this.
Welcome aboard. Yes, I am in a desert, and the battery room is weather proofed so rain won't get in. Also note that all wood mounted connections are low voltage. (12vdc) the 120/240v stuff is all in electrical boxes and conduits. Thanks for your concern, though.
I learned more in the first five minutes that I did in the previous half hour looking at other stupid videos! Thanks!
You are welcome, and Welcome aboard!
Would the 12 volt BLS be able to be integrated onto my motorcycle? Thanks
Welcome aboard! The 12v BLS will work on any 12v lead acid battery.
Welcome aboard! Thanks!
dumpload controllers with solid state relays SSR have a longer service life , well if the solenoid is switching on and off Alot because the turbine is in a good wind location the mechanical relays can get stuck on due to the result of endless arcing so many point out, Very Good video for beginners, one of the best ive seen.
Thanks for the input! Yes, there are better systems, but keeping a mechanical solenoid cool is key to longer life.
If you have the money, go with the relay unit, though.
The dump load controllers with SSR you speak of are they the ones on the market that only use the AC 3 wires coming in then rectify & control the output to either battery or resistor/dump load? I am trying to take DC from a DC motor wind turbine (DIY) & divert it from the batts once full.
A 3 wire PMA needs a rectifier to convert its ac output to DC, DC can then go to the battery and a digital diverter will keep the battery from overcharge by diverting excess to a dump load resistance.
@@GBear The solenoid shouldn't need a fan. If it's getting hot, it means it's probably not a constant current solenoid, or it's exceeding the rated voltage/current.
@bigrob1887 true, but the fan keeps it cooler. 😆👍
You have an incredible handle on this subject and you are a wonderful teacher! Thank you for explaining all of your components in detail using language that we can all understand.
Thank you!! ❤
Add on to my above comment ^^ If you ever have some extra time, would you be able to list or link some of the components that you used? So we can copy you!!
You're welcome and welcome aboard!
Will do. I already have videos showing my favorite components, but will do another
Wow G Bear, Thanks so much. This clarifies both systems and answers a lot of questions. I feel more confident moving forward. It's so kind of you to put this together.
You're welcome!
You explained everything so well and now I feel way more confident. Thank you so much.
You're welcome. Welcome aboard!
Very nice set up. I spread my panels to separate charge controllers and batteries which each are dedicated to a specific task and load. Also I would dump excess load to a hot water heater inorder to storage the excess. Nice work sir.
Thank you and welcome aboard.
I only intended to watch just to get a certain answer I was looking for. Not only did I get the answer to my question but I also learned a lot more about things I hadn't thought of. I watched every second and am so thankful that I did. Thank you for taking the time to make this!
Welcome aboard Richard! I'm glad I could be of assistance.
Mr G Bear , first of all I appreciate you for enlightening us with this information.
Is there a way to communicate, I have a few questions regarding this system.
Thank you. @@GBear
This works, and i get credit for the comments. Also, others can learn from the questions and answers.
the best video I've seen. The only thing i would say is that golf cart and fork lift batteries can be one battery ... like on your shelf. or packaged together as a larger 4000lb !! battery..
.. I'm getting windy.. ..
great breakdown! well said..
Welcome aboard. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, Sir, for the great detailed illustrated video which you made it easy for those like me who are hard to understand.
Welcome aboard! Thank you for watching.
OMG ! Yes I REALLY like how you incorporated the solenoid into the path of the solar charge controller to the dump load. I was trying to find info to use PMA DC type wind turbines (I am making a small scale 12V 12A old water pump motor into a small vertical wind turbine to light a garden are at night :) Thanks again for posting all this GREAT info!
~C~
Welcome aboard! Keep experimenting, it brings about new knowledge, at the least!
Thnx for showing your shelf system on the GH poles. 2morrow I will install a removable shelf (above the potatoes in grow bags) for seed starting. Later on I will relocate the potatoes, remove the shelf and grow tomatoes in grow bags and use the full height of the GH. Best wishes, greetings from Holland
Glad to oblige! Lots of space in a grow house, may as well find ways to use it!
@@GBear Yep, there is way more space, I just thought of the possibilty of hanging a gutter near the roof for strawberries
@@earlshine453 great idea! How about hanging baskets with herbs?
@@GBear Looks like a good idea, especially for the winter months, for the other seasons I aim to construct some raised beds in full sun
Good Informative Video Sir.
I have both in the works. 12V and 24V . The wind system being 24V. Most likely will be going with 24V only at some point. No Obstructions here so I can get away with the turbine only being 10Ft above my roof line.
The main disadvantage of using a DC 2 wire Wind Turbines is DC voltage they produce requires heavier gauge wire and does not travel distances as well as AC or Three Wire systems can. They work for stuff like boats but for home use Best to just avoid the things.
Well it's Semi Official. Wife works at Wally World and they was informed today to expect the shelves to start being short. The warehouses are feeling the pain. So if there was a Chines product your in need of at Walmart you might want to think about grabbing it.
Good stuff! I don't buy much from Wally World, although a subscriber just sent me a $10 gift if I order food online and pick it up. A lot of imports are affected by the Corona virus. Makes one think if it wasn't by design to quell chinese imports....🤔
@@GBear
Got to agree, there is something very fishy regarding Chinese stock exchange and Trumps new tariffs.
Here's to bringing back pharmaceutical mfg to the USA and all the other things we consume 👍
No doubt you live this tech I appreciate your time and your talent give us. I understand perfectly your explication. Thank you!
Welcome aboard! Thank you!
I have definitely been leaning towards used forklift batteries.thanks for the reinforcement of that idea
Welcome aboard! Yeah, i sure wish I could afford them and had the facilities to house them. I recently received an ad for refurbished ones for sale.
Absolutely wonderful explanation. Contributions like yours are why I call this place CZcams University,
Welcome aboard! Thank you!
Fantastic to actually be shown and the explanation as to how to instal thank you so much x🎉
Welcome aboard, Paul!
I got a fan for that that plugs into the usb port on the controller, uses .1 watt, nice roller bearings, really quiet...the solenoid is like the one on a John Deere...if I ever get these tapered head Japanese screws out of this Honda PMA, I'll cobble one up, all I like is the solenoid...it's got magnets in it but I've got stouter ones, lol..yeah now that I've got 12 batteries I need a windmill...well too many irons in the fire but slowly slowly...when the sun got stronger a week ago the 10 I had would be full and now it's holding more...I have the forbidden bad ones you mentioned...for one reason I have to move them one day by myself as always and I dont have my old John Deere 790 with the front bucket anymore, just my butt...these are like 80 pounds each though...I can always get a fork truck battery later and have 1500 amp hours with the ones I have and it....I have to allow for the time to save up for such a big heavy thing ....but I can get by on what I have pretty well..I just have to do it between rain storms lol
Off grid is usually about making concessions. My favorite saying: Function before beauty!
Very much explanatory,,I appreciate your efforts to tell all things
Thank you.
Connecting multiple charge controllers _without_ parallel capabilities will work, but it won't work very efficiently and you'll lose out on a lot of power, especially mixing MPPT and PWM controllers.
@@bigrob1887 Yeah, but it only worked for 9 years.
Thanks for the video, I have been trying to get info on how to size the wind generator. My off grid system has 3x100 amp lithium battery and 2.1 kw max solar... I need extra when no sun for days but I have plenty of wind.
Welcome aboard Ed! Ok, let me simplify the sizing for you.
Since wind generators seldom put out their rated value for a consistent time due to fluctuations in the wind, get the highest rated one you can afford. You'll still need either a diverter or a good Midnite classic controller, the latter being the better choice. Not all controllers can be used for wind, but the Midnite classic is designed for it and is very efficient at it.
Take into consideration when going with wind power, max output at what wind speed? Also, 3 bladed units are a better design than 5 or 7 blade units, but size and shape make a difference also. The tower or mast height and strength. My little KT5 PMA has pulled a 300+ pound concrete anchor out of the ground in 60+mph wind.
Guy wires need to be steel rope able to handle 3000-5000 lbs of stress in high winds also.
Then consider access to the PMA for maintenance. Simple things like bird poop can throw the balance off, causing excessive wear.
That brings me to another thing...be sure to check your hub and blade balance before installing them on the PMA for best performance and output.
Lastly, consider where the PMA will be located and the distance from the battery bank. Wire size and PMA vs PMG are affected by that distance.
Enjoyed the video.
One thing (probably of many) that I haven't figured out yet is how is the voltage from the pma regulated.
I assume the voltage will vary with wind speed but you need a nice steady 14.5v to charge the batteries.
Welcome aboard. Yes, the voltage is quite variable from a PMA due to wind speeds. The best way to control it is through a Midnite Classic controller after the bridge connector.
I still have mine 'old school' style where the bridge rectifier connects to the battery bank and a dumpload controller monitors voltages in the bank and dumps it if it exceeps capacity. I was going to upgrade to a Midnite Classic controller bit the economy made finances go south.
Been trying to find out more on using more than one solar array and wind turbine system but every where I’ve gone seen to think they can talk the lingo and you’ll understand it. You have answered most of my questions in layman’s terms which I understand. Many thanks And great video look forward to more. And subscribed 👍🏼👍🏼
Welcome aboard! Anything in particular you need to know or clarify, just ask and I'll help if I can.
@@GBear great vids g-bear. My question is more about solar. I’m still stumped on how to divert solar power after batteries are charged. Like to heat water. Is there a simple diverter system that can be triggered by a timer or voltage that doesn’t involve using the batteries. One person mentioned it being necessary to have a switch or relay before the charge controller to prevent micro cycling batteries. Im still very new to all this. Thanks
Hi Spot On. Welcome aboard! Yes, there are ways to divert excess power to heating elements. Below is a link to one type, but the element included with this unit is for air warming. You would need to buy a water heater element in your voltage and subsitute it for the air heater element. I'm not promoting this particular charge controller, just showing you what is available.
amzn.to/3yzDi8s
You didn't mention the size, output, or even how much wind you get at your location, so I couldn't be specific on what you need or should expect from the setup.
@@GBear I appreciate the help, and thanks! it’s a small solar setup for a shed. I’m really just looking for direction on the concept tho. Interesting charge controller! i just want to make sure that the dump load doesn’t pull from the batteries and micro cycle them as some CZcamsrs mentioned some will. Do this “d” terminals carry the power right from the panels or will they pull from batteries? I haven’t seen charge controllers with a “d” symbol on them before
Oh, wait! Are you just using 'solar'? No wind turbine?
Pma=AC 3 WIRES. PMG=DC 2 wire ok GBEAR I'M TAKING MY NOTES! All Makes sense! Thanks 👍
Correct. PMG has q built in rectifier, PMA requires a rectifier to be added before the battery connection.
I use a 100 amp 3 bridge rectifier. And a dump control board and solid state relay and 3 100 watt 3 ohm resisters in paralleled to drag mine down when the bank is full.
Thank You for the freat video and information. I will have to watch this video again in the near future.
Welcome aboard! Yeah, I no longer use those controllers since I got my Midnite classic 150 and Renogy Rover controllers. Like day and night in efficiency!
Thanks for all the info G Bear. TAKE CARE..
You are welcome!
Thank you very much G Bear 🐻 for sharing this most excellent and educational wind and solar video
You're welcome, and welcome aboard!
Very detailed information. Thank you so much I appreciate your time.
Welcome aboard! You're welcome.
I'm watching this from the UK!
Welcome aboard Jon!
Great video. Can you explain how your wind controller manages the power cover to control the power taken from the turbine at different RPM or Voltages. This is important for efficient operation of the wind turbine, especially at low wind speed. Thank you.
@@igorrogelj5033 Welcome aboard.
I'll try in a video soon.
Way over my pay grade gBear. I think if I was to go off grid somewhere, and I'm not going to but if, I would just hire you and say build me one of those.
Lol, thanks Tom.
Comprehensive thank you. I'm wiring multiple charge controllers and mixing solar and wind. This clarified a lot. Thanks.
You are very welcome, and welcome aboard!
Great vid, G Bear. Very informative. Thank you. Im about to build a system on a mountain property we just purchased. Can you recommend any books that you may have read to build this and also have on hand for troubleshooting in a shtf situations. So many to choose from so felt you may be able to narrow it down for me. System I need to build I'd like to have stored power when I return every 3-4 weeks for a few days at a time. Wont be permanently moving up there for a few years or in event we are forced to do it sooner. I just want to do it safely and efficiently so as not to burn half a mountain's worth of trees down. Any advice is appreciated.
@davidthompson1529 Welcome aboard, David. I didn't read any books on this stuff, although I watched many videos on YT. I also have 47 years experience as a General contractor. I'll help you in any way I can, just ask and I'll try to set you in the right direction.
Thank you. I am heading off grid in three weeks and have much to learn. Moving into a home with an existing 1200 watt system, but it's ripe for a turbine.
Go BIG on turbine output, PMA, and be sure to have a solid, steady mast. Balance your blade setup prior to raising the mast for best output and performance.
And...WELCOME ABOARD!
@@GBear Thank you much for the considerate advice. I've watched this twice already.
@@thinkfloyd2594 any help in the future needed, just ask!
Awesome, super informative video. Thank you VERY much for sharing. Would love to see a diagram of your system (including parts make and specs). Would also love to hear your thoughts on how to choose a good turbine.
Thanks and welcome aboard. I have some videos in my playlists that talk about what to look for in turbines.
What a cluster you got going on there.
Tell me about it! At least I woke up to a nice cool sunny morning with clear air and skies!
GBear, another alternative to dumping your excess power, feed that extra power into a secondary 14 volt battery bank by using a combination of 6v & 8v golf cart batteries, which requires more current for charging. I’ve been using BatteryMINDers 2012’s for all five battery banks except one AGM bank that uses the BatteryMINDer 2012-AGM model. My golf cart batteries and AGM’s are between 10-15 years old and only need to add acid once a year. I use two banks for Ham radio that requires 13.8 volts. BTW, a PWG also works as a pulse/desulf charger but I like that BLS-12N and I will see if I can buy a couple of those.
Welcome aboard! I do have plans for a second battery bank, but was thinking more along the lines of 48v as a backup.
Umm you should never shunt of dump into anything that could run out of capacity. You could kill the turbine or your batteries or both or all three: catch things on fire. (10:20 looks a little fire risky to me)
@@fishhuntadventure won't the dump load controller just divert the power when the main battery bank is full?
No. It will turn on when the battery bank is over full, but the AIMS and the Midnite Classic also prevent overcharge, so the dump load never activates any more.
@@GBear GBear, thank you for the reply… it seems your video didn´t just enlighten me, but also a huge pouch of people!
AIMS and the Midnite Classic will prevent overcharge and the dump load will not be used right? The thing is that I do want to use that extra power but not on that huge resistor, I want to use it on a large water heater and/or another battery bank for gest house.
The other thing I´m worried (as I´m using lithium-ion battery) is the micro cycling happening on the battery bank while using the dump load.
Can you please give me some insights on these 2 issues?
Good vid & explanation of ur system G Bear. Wouldn’t it makes sense to use ur dump load to make hot water or at least a pre-heater for a hot water system, but use ur excess solar power from ur controllers as well, as soon as ur batteries are full SOC have the controller divert any extra power to ur hot water system. I have a 50ltr hot water system that operates this way on a stationary 40’ bus, a 24v system, 3kw AIO inverter, 2.5kw pv panels & 10 kwh lifepo4. I can run microwave, 2.5kw split air con, H/W system, everything off Solar & heat water for the family of 4 showers daily while fully charging batteries.
I have a 24vdc multi power element (300w, 600w, 900w capable) for the H/W system but never fitted it as I use the inverter with a AC voltage/dimmer control so I can adjust the output to the 240vac 1800w element I installed previously, instead of the 3600w element it had standard. I can use the controller to vary the power usage of the H/w system if its cloudy or for other reasons.
For my house I have a 5kw AIO 48v system with 10 kwh of pv (grid tied) & 30 kwh of lifepo4, I only use about 20%-25% battery SOC a night on either system generally, higher voltage systems are much more efficient if ur going to use an inverter, & use a step down (or up) converter for lights & light loads to save on wasted inverter idle power usage.
Lifepo4 batteries are a game changer now days in so many ways & using a decent shunt ,means you can know very accurately how much power is going in, out & still available.
They were PWM controllers u were trying to think of , it stands for ‘Pulse Width Modulation’, but Im sure u know that. Cheers
Welcome aboard. I live in the hot desert, and don't use much hot water at all. I use a propane, tankless water heater that gives me on demand hot water when needed. It is off 10
5 months of the year.
My tote-cuzzi outside doesn't have a heater either, and the water is at 90°F or better.
One small correction, the difference is between a PMA and PMG is NOT that PMA is AC and PMG is DC, they are both AC. The PMA is designed for a car originally and the PMG is designed to be a generator and is essentially better in every way.
Welcome aboard. Sorry, I have to correct you. A PMA has 3 wires all the same color, and no specific order of connection, all output, because it is AC (Alternating Current) until it runs through a bridge rectifier which is constructed of a series of diodes and converts that alternating current into direct current (DC) by redirecting multiple inputs to directional input/output. A PMG is a Direct Current "generator" That produces electricity through a 2 wire Direct Current, positive to negative, power with one red and one black conductor. Power out through positive and return through negative.
The correction to your statement is: Both PMA & PMG are "alternators", the difference being, a PMG has a rectifier built in, an PMG requires one at the conversion location. This is why a PMA is preferred. An alternator, (requires smaller conductors) for longer distance of run, saving money on wiring, and conduit sizes.
Thanks for your comment.
@@GBear
I don’t kwow what to tell you. PMA is car alternator. It makes AC. The PMG is a 3 phase generator . It also makes AC. The one i have has 6 wires one sour I’d it.
6 wires coming out of it.
Absolutely the best explanation. Thank you
Thank you, Scott!
Building me a vertical wind turbine. Trying to get all the info I can! Thanks for the tips.
Sounds like a fun project! Good luck! Let me know if I can help with info.
I built my own vertical windmill with a treadmill motor. Now I'm just here to see about the control system for the battery bank.
You'll need to determine the treadmill motor output voltage and wattage, and whether your output is AC or DC.
With AC you'll need a bridge rectifier that not only converts the AC to DC, but steps the voltage down to your usable battery bank level. You can't charge a 12v battery with 60 volts DC!
With DC (PMG) you will also need a step down transformer, but not a bridge rectifier.
Oh, and welcome aboard!
Thanks. Yeah it outputs DC. I'm looking into purchasing a 440 power charge controller is what I've read I should use. That with an inverter as the output. I plan on running dc stuff but then a maybe a couple smaller ac things.
Got the same charge controller but my model is 2000 watts. 1000 watts for solar and 1000 watts for turbine. Whole system is 12 volts. The problem is I just bought my first solar panel which is 320 watts and it is pumping 30 volts. It is working fine when it is cloudy but in full sun the controller is shoving error and OVER PV is blinking. I found in the instruction that voltage from solar panel is higher than voltage set in controller. What can I do now? Did I buy wrong solar panel. I was trying to set higher voltage in the controller but the max is 17 volts. I do not understand what is wrong as this controller is made for 12volt 24 volt and 48volt systems. Anybody could help???
Welcome aboard Seb, sorry to hear about your troubles. If only you had contacted me sooner. I found out the hard way that those Chinese controllers are junk. I have since replaced mine with the Midnite Classic 150 and wish I would have just gone this way in the first place.
You have a choice, keep that controller and get rid of the solar panel, and only use 12v, 100 watt panels connected in parallel with it, or keep the solar panel and buy a Midnite Classic 150, 200, or 250 for your solar controller and use the Chinese controller for a 12v turbine only.
Note that the numbers for the Midnite Classic depict the maximum input voltage, so the 150 will accept 150vdc input, allowing you to connect your 320watt panels in series/parallel.
Also the Midnite Classic group will control either wind or solar, but only one or the other, not both in the same controller.
I hope this helps.
Excellent tutorial 👍
Thank you, and welcome aboard!
Amazing video man, for real this is great information for me, an Engineer student in renewable energies!
Welcome aboard Marcelo! Any way I can help you, ask away! You may want to check out my Playlist about Electrical experiments and such also!
That's what I'm doing, your content is fascinating. I would love to have teachers like you lol. I have a question, I can always connect my wind turbine to a SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER? Aren't there charge controllers for wind turbines? If so, Is it possible to connect a wind turbine and some panels to the same charge controller?
@@marceloadrianmendodelacruz5451 yes, there are hybrid controllers that handle both wind and solar. I prefer not to use them from experience. I had to cycle through the controller to distinguish between which was producing what. By separating them out I am able to see those numbers at a glance.
Thanks for the info, that makes sense. I'm currently doing a project for my thesis that consist on perimeter lighting for my University parking lot with eolic and solar energy as power source. Your knowledge is gold for me, I appreciate the help! Greetings from Mexico.
@@marceloadrianmendodelacruz5451 in the near future I will be installing a solar powered submersible pump system in my water storage tank to keep the water in motion during the hot summer days. This should help prevent stagnation and algae growth. I just ordered the parts and should receive them in a couple of weeks.
curious will it not damage the battery if you feed the output of the rectifier direclty to the battery ? . Again I am not expert on this just asking to expand my knowledge. do you still need a voltage regulator to match the proper charging voltage of the battery ? feed the output of the rectifier to a voltage regulator or PWM or charge controller ? thanks
Welcome aboard! First, let's start with the basics. You should not attempt to charge, let's say, a 12v battery bank with a 24v turbine. Think of it like you car. You wouldn't replace the alternator with one that outputs higher voltage, right.
Now, yes, you 'could' do it using a specific charge controller, a transformer, etc., but it would complicate your system and life, while costing you more.
As far as connecting the bridge rectifier straight to the batteries, yes it will damage the batteries unless you also add a 'dump load diverter' to handle overcharges. You could also use a Midnite Classic charge controller set up for wind power conversion, which is the best option, as this allows you to fine tune and adjust the input for best efficiency.
Just brilliant. Thanks Bear. 😊👍
Welcome aboard!
BLS was a huge tip!
Welcome aboard!
I believe the 1600 watts is what it will put out for an entire day(24hr) if it ran constantly at its highest output,
Welcome aboard. I'm not sure what you are referring to, but if it is my PMA, it will generate max watts at maximum wind speed, for as long as the wind maintains that speed.
How did you choose the current rating of the rectifier and charge controller. Thank You
@@sersang Welcome aboard. By the max output stats of the PMA.
Thanks G bear!! great explanation, I’m trying similar project too, POC is done and now will need to design a battery bank.
1) how do you wire the batteries together with 2 source of charging ? I’m thinking to add another source for charging but not sure how to wire it.
2) If it’s a separated batteries zoning , how do we ensure the batteries are equally charge?
3) how do you connect all the batteries to the inverter? Do you have a battery bank management system in place?
4) how to detect a faulty battery under the batteries bank?
Watch tonite's episode and I will answer your questions.
at first i thought the fans was overkill but then i remember your in the desert lol
Lol, yes I am! Welcome aboard! Also, that big PMA produces high amps and heat.
This was very helpful to me. Thank you for sharing!
Welcome aboard! You're welcome.
i found away to watch your videos with out adds
Since that earns my no compensation, do you at least like and subscribe?
Thanks sir for the good lesson.
Welcome aboard! I'm glad it helped! Plenty more in my playlists.
The reason automotive/car batteries don’t work well is because they use crank amps. Electric vehicle batteries don’t need that initial inrush of amps to crank anything.
Exactly. Car batteries are designed to give a quick burst of power, then recharge slowly, where electric vehicle deep cycle are designed to release power slowly and recharge quickly.
24v aircraft batteries work well for solar, but are very expensive.
Welcome aboard!
You should mention with the solar wire the gauge could be less if the panels are wired in a series vs wired in parallel (more amps require thicker wire vs more volts and less amps and letting the mppt controller convert the higher volts to amps at the controller)
Welcome aboard! Very good point! I'll be sure to put out that info.
Well said 🙏👏👏👏 a lot of people make this mistake to parallel panels and they spend a lot of money in the cable but the problem is a lot of people use low amps charger(most of the cases cheap ones) and those they can't take higher voltage input like the midle/premium brands(even though there are quite a few cheap Chinese chargers that can take over 100v input and output 12-24V or more)
Welcome aboard! So true!
This was great. Thank you.
Welcome aboard! Thanks.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you.
Welcome aboard. You're welcome.
G. Bear, I have a three-wire wind generator, and common inexpensive potted wind controller that came with it. All three wires from the generator are the same color: Red. And the three controller wires are all the same color, also. Does it matter which generator wire goes to which controller terminal/wire?, or can the hookup be made in any fashion, and still have the same, best result?
The face of the controller has a diagram of a three-bladed wind turbine blade, with the center wire of the three controller wires coming from the second (middle one) of the three generator wires. If the order of the hookup matters at all, how can I determine which generator wire is that center wire? Or, as I speculate, since all the wires and terminals have the same color, does the order of the hookup to the controller (rectifier) simply not matter at all? In any case, how did YOU proceed, and manage to get a good result in the hookup? Please help! Others here may have this question, too. Thanks!, --Joe / Tucson ARIZONA
@W7DXW Welcome aboard, Joe! A 3 wire turbine is a Permanent Magnet ALTERNATOR, (PMA), and the order of the wires is not a factor in connections.
Those 3 wires connect in any order to the controller you received with it, to the 3 same colored wires on the controller. That leaves a black and red wire to go to the batteries.
You may want to order the following meter so you can monitor the power.
amzn.to/3zZ6F8n
Thank you! for your help, you've done me a great, good turn (and others here, too, I think, who may have had the same quandary and puzzlement that I had, as newcomers to wind power). I was trying to figure-out the connection scheme for days, and was frankly going a bit stir-crazy, with various mental topological twists and turns, trying to figure out if all the connection schemes are (or should be) in fact equivalent. I even resorted to experiment, and tried different permutations of the connections, while spinning the turbine generator with an electric drill, and always got the same voltage output no matter HOW I connected the wires. I couldn't believe my eyes. You've very kindly settled it for me, now. T-H-A-N-K Y-O-U ! ! --Joe / Tucson
@W7DXW You’re welcome. Yes, it can be confusing to newcomers. The good thing is your test shows it is working properly, having the same voltage output on each combination.
The charge controller they provide is basically a bridge rectifier which changes AC to DC through diodes. That's why I recommended the meter. Without a readout screen, you would never know if the power to the batteries was too high, especially with LiFePO4's.
Excellent video, thanks so much. More please 😅
Subscribed!
Welcome aboard! You can bet on more to come.
Do you ever have to replace the blades on these turbines? And if you do, will they even be willing to sell them?
Blades can become damaged from elements and other things like bird strikes, etc.
Yes, you can buy replacements from Thermodyne.
How we can connect car alternated powered by wind turbine to charge ev car lethium ion battery
Won't be easy! A car alternator is usually 12vdc, and designed to charge a lead acid battery. The voltages of an EV are usually in the 48vdc range.
Hi!
I'm the new subscriber. Great video and very helpful info.
Thanks!
Welcome aboard, Adam!
How close to the ground can you have the turbines and have them still work OK? I want to be able to put one up but not have it so high up that everyone sees it, because our municipality I don't know if I can get away with it yet. So I wanted to find out what th eminimum height to get these to work typically is? And because maintenance would be easier if they aren't really high up.
Thanks.
Welcome aboard, Noah! If you live inside city limits, they usually aren't allowed. They need to be high up, especially around multiple buildings that would affect air flow. Also, if you are on grid, it wouldn't do you much good anyway, unless it was a very large turbine.
Sorry to sound negative, but I don't want to mislead you.
@@GBear Hey GBear thank you for the reply. I appreciate the comments. You weren't negative but just being real. Actually you are probably right.
I'm curious if they could be used for camping though, or if it would just end up being too hard for a portable set up with one?
@Noah Riding The higher up you put them, the better they work. Solar is a much better bet for camping, as you don't always have wind, but the sun is pretty reliable. Turbines are supplemental providers, and shouldn't be relied on as the main source of power. After all, who wants to camp in 40mph winds?🤔
Great stuff, thank you! so basically the power from wind is going straight into the batteries ( disregarding the rectifier) not using something like a charge controller like the solar does, correct? Would this same setup translate to hydroelectric, no? (Pelton wheel being spun by water) lastly, where did you get that display showing power and voltage? Or what did you Google for?
Welcome aboard! Yes, 3 phase AC power comes in from the PMA (turbine) goes through a bridge rectifier to make it Single phase DC, then through the "high precision wattmeter", then through a breaker to the batteries.
Then a dump load unit or digital load diverter is applied to the battery bank to prevent over charge.
that one green controller takes wind turbines too. i have the same one connected to four 100watt panels and a 400watt turbine
Yes, it is a hybrid controller, but not a good one. Same with the one right beside it.
I bought those in my early days of learning and retired them when I found better, more efficient options.
@@GBear i just got it in February so far its doing its job but yes i will be upgrading in the future as my ranch and the system grow
Smart man! We all have to start somewhere and sometimes learn the hard way. I try to share what I learned that hard way to help others save money, time and frustration. Welcome aboard!
@@GBear i have seen i have been watching the channel off and on for the last year and a half now
Thank you for your continued support.
Nice project Sir
Thank you! Welcome aboard.
This all seems so complicated, and depressingly difficult. Do they make/sell ready-to-go systems, for people of low-tech understanding? Do I really need a shed full of wires and gizmos to get a wind turbine working? I'm looking for a simple setup where the wires from the wind turbine plug into one "box", then the output from that "box" is a cable that I can plug into my portable battery/generator to charge it. This is how it works with my solar panels.
Welcome aboard. Yes, times have changed. You can use a Midnite Classic charge controller after the bridge rectifier. Then just connect the Midnite Classic to your battery bank like you would with solar.
Hi. I am Graham.
How do you connect 2 or more charge controllers to the battery bank. Do you do it in parallel to the same battery bank or you split the battery banks so that each controller charges its on Bank. I have tried putting them in parallel to the same battery bank but one of the controllers always get damaged. Please help.
Hi Graham, welcome aboard. They need to be connected to the bank at different locations, and should be set with the same parameters. Also, only one should have the 'equalization' feature turned on.
Connect the first one, positive to positive of the first battery, negative to the negative of last battery.
Connect the other, positive to last battery, negative to first battery.
just noticed that your wall fan will blow air in the cabin not out... change sides and then it will blow out ;) and your inverter will take air in true front and blow out from back
I don't know what you are looking at, but the fan on the wall near the door blows out. The inverter fan blows towards it and it moves the air out through the vent. The fan on the other side feeds air into the inlet side of the inverter.
@@GBear your bridge rectifier fan blows towards rectifier... wall and inverter fans are blowing same directions... fan sticker is always where air comes out from it ;)
just trying to help ;)
Trust me. The fan blows outward.
@@GBear check it ;)
Hey FRIEND! Touching base with you! Interested in learning how much power it generates. It 12volts you say. 1685 watt??? Got to have 90 mile/hr wind…that is rare!
Needs 90mph wind to produce 1685w. It starts producing at 9mph, but only about 30-40w. Normal winds here will reach 22mph and I can get a few hundred watts out of that. I have seen over 1000w in a wind storm with gusts of 45mph.
I love my 3 phase AC PMA turbine. Mine is rated 500 watt rated gets 1200 watts at 40 mph winds.
Welcome aboard! Great isn't it?
@@GBear I love my portable wind and solar setup. I can tow it with my camper and use it to power my house at home. It took me 400 hours to weld drill and bolt cut and wire everything on it.
Do you have a video posted about it?
@@GBear here is another windy day partially cloudy czcams.com/video/3H8lqvrAVpw/video.html
@@GBear yes i have made several because I am always finding something else to upgrade or do differently and even better than the first go. I am never finished with it.i am always adding something.
You should blow air in from outside, not suck 'hot air' out heat rises. Your extraction fan is too low and will actually bring the hot air from the ceiling down past your inverter
Welcome aboard. Yeah, but if I am doing it wrong for the last almost 9 years, and it is working, then I see no reason to fix it.😀
Hello G Bear, thank you for the very informative video. There are so few of these videos going into wiring details. I had a few questions as we are also installing a turbine, but this is in Wales UK. I am learning as I go along so please bear with me. The setup is a 5Kw turbine, standard three-phase (three magnets), 300 yards from the house. 48v batteries with a 5kw controller. I have laid 2 x 10mm cables from the turbine (instead of 3) does the controller now have to be located at the turbine site as it has a three-cable ac input? Or, could a rectifier be put next to the turbine to convert to the two cables? Any advice is appreciated, Dan
Hi Dan, welcome aboard! Since 2 rectifiers can't be used on the same PMA, you would need to mount the controller at the PMA. The problem is, if you do that, then you need to use larger diameter wire from the controller to the load. The reason we choose a PMA over a PMG is to save on conductors (wiring size). It looks like your best option is to run a third wire from PMA to controller.
Awesome job sir
Thank you. Welcome aboard!
Dear G.Bears We thank you for your clarity of your videos ,very clear speach of yours ,and properly technical placement of all the aspects concerning what else....Energy. I have one question .We all know that somehow china is the center of our planet for most of the things that we all days we need.One thing that strikes my mind is the Wind Generator issues.They shout 1,5 KW 2 KW etc and there are plenty of videos that they measure their output and the result is so dissapointing to the thechnical world.I really wonder how Not even one [to my knowledge] has not tried to create a wind generator from a truck Alternator which they really have good output but of course need long wings and strong wind.I will continue searching around for an honest wind generator in regards its cost.Also instead of having dump load for the wind generator to drive the cable to the appropriate Resistance of a water boiler so.no energy is being lost cause actually heats up the water inside the boiler. Everybody knows that there are professional people that they construct resistances to your needs AC DC 5 volt 20 volt 100 volt .u just name it.....Best regards.
i have set up for my office and one set for the freezer and frig. the 24 will be for the air
Too bad you are on the other side of the country, I'd love to help you with the setup, but from here, I worry about your safety while Jerry-rigging power.
Where do you set up your panels? The Gustapo will spot them and throw you in the cooler.🫡😆
So what are you using for an inverter? You would need separate ones for 12v or 24v. Also the wattage and pure sine or modified sine wave makes a difference.
@@GBearihave 1500watt pure sign wave for the office i have 1000 pure sign wave for the freezers i have a3000 pure sign wave they are relibles for 24v i have a 25000 i have high dollar charge controllers tristar but don,t whant to mess them up they all have dip switches for setting
When you need to replace your batteries do you think you will go with Lifepo4 batteries? They are getting cheaper all the time.
Thanks for the video.
Welcome aboard! Not sure about that. The extreme temps out here are not good for LiPo
If you have some strong young and very good friends an earth bag structure might be an option. Maybe one for the batteries and one for the other equipment. The equipment room could heat the battery room. Eg4 now has a self heated battery, I think it is 13kw and is about $4000. Maybe a suggestion for someone starting out that could be expanded on. Maybe a subject for your new paid channel.
We could see some deflation in batteries after we get through inflation going down. Again thanks for sharing.
@@JR-xw5dk Thank you for the information. I'll at least do my research so I know what I'll be dealing with in the future.
Not anything I have tried but just something I thought about. If you can get the right thickness of wall you might get it warm enough for the winter and then cool enough for the summer.
Maybe do earth bag work shops. Get people to pay you to work for you. 😂
@@JR-xw5dk lol, thanks. I'll keep that in mind.
Wow amazing thank you ! So much information
Thank you Jp! Welcome aboard!
what is the point of having a PWM module connected to the batteries to dump extra power if the power reaching to the batteries from the rectifier are already charging your batteries, won't they get damage over time more quickly provided there is no controller before power reached them after they peek in power? it seems to me that the PWM controller should go after the rectifier to charge your batteries and not later, not a criticism, i'm wanting to build a water wheel generator with either a PMA or PMG and its a bit confusing with all sort of information in the internet on how to connect stuff
Since a PMA or PMG can put out excessively high watts and amps at times, running it through a controller requires a special controller to handle those ranges. I have seen my PMA put out 166 amps, and actually fry the rectifier which was rated at 150A.
The PMA is specially designed to operate a 'dump load' system, which puts a 300w load on the battery bank when excess power is created.
Welcome aboard.
As someone new to this, with a basic electronics knowledge from school, any learning resources you’d recommend to build up base knowledge on all this?
CZcams can help along with hands on experience.
Welcome aboard!
Is the Desulfater connected to one battery in the battery bank?
Welcome aboard! All connections to a battery bank should be made accross the whole bank. Ie; + of the first battery, - of the last battery.
Where did you get the hinge for bottom gas pipe
Actually, I found it in some dumped junk in the desert.
Hi 👋🏾 G l know it's been a while, ☺️ just wondering could you use a 12v wind turbine to change a 24-v battery bank, l was thinking if you had a converter 🤔 but not sure what do you think
No, you can't. A 24 volt battery needs at least 25.5v to properly charge. If the incoming voltage doesn't exceed the battery's base voltage, the current can't flow.
You don't mention that another advantage of the AC is that the current in the wiring is smaller so you have less line loss and can use smaller Guage wiring.
Welcome aboard Ron. Maybe not in the video, but I have mentioned that often in comments.
Good comment, though.
The far left green Chinese charge controller is made to be a wind and solar controller. I'm wondering why you are not using it as a wind controller also? Has it held up well?
Welcome aboard! That controller is a small boat anchor. In other words, a piece of junk, just like the one next to it.
Don't waste your money on hybrid controllers from China, as they are a joke.
The best wind controller out there is a Midnite Classic, either the 150, 200, or 250. Note, that you can't connect wind AND solar to the Midnite at the same time. It's either, or.
@@GBear have you tried the Xantrex c35 through C60 controllers? They are a little over $100 each.
No, I haven't tried those. If there's one thing I learned about off grid solar, it's "you get what you pay for".
How do you run a 240 volt A/C circuit off of the system? Also, why did you choose the 6 volt lead acid instead of a lithium 12 volt? And last, if you could start over and recover all the money spent, what would be different? Thanks Bear, I have learned a TON from your videos!
Welcome aboard David!
Ok, running a 240v A/C requires an Low Frequency, Split Phase, 240v inverter.
I went with flooded batteries because of cost and amp hours, and lithium doesn't like the freezing temps I can get out here.
Starting over? More batteries before the price went up, a better, higher output PMA turbine, Only buying Midnite Classic controllers, Only buying the biggest LF SP AIMS Inverter Available.
Why do not you connect the wind turbine to the input of the hybrid controller and charge all the batteries from there?
I originally had it that way, but couldn't monitor the turbine input at a glance. Knowing what I know today, I would never spend money on a hybrid controller again.
the green mppt has turbine input and dump terminals. have you considered buying another one for the turbine? or is the turbine greater than 600 watts. that green mppt is also available in 1000 watt model too. then you could get rid of the black pwm and its solenoid and use the all in one green controller to open and close the dump load.. also what about getting the 12v water heater element for your water heater tank to further alleviate grid consumption? heck its free energy. might as well right
u definitely know what you are doing but you dont get any gold stars for organized wiring lol haha. good video tho. very helpful. thanks
Welcome aboard! My turbine is 1685watts. Those hybrid controllers are junk. I learned the hard way on that. I have since upgraded to a Midnite Classic controller for solar, and still use the dumpload as backup. But it never activates anymore because the Classic monitors the battery bank. I also have a tankless water heater so I don't need the preheated setup.
You are in the early videos still, and you will see alot of advancements in later episodes of my playlist.
Yeah, the wiring isn't pretty, but it works perfectly, lol.
Thanks for your thoughts though.
@@GBear thanks , i will continue to watch. with the classic, when it shuts off charging to the bank, and you are rarely using the back up, how are you preventing over-speed without keeping some sort of resistance on the turbine?
@toobglued the turbine is connected directly to the battery bank. In the future I will be controlling it through its own Classic, which will make it more efficient.
where to get used forklift batteries? is it recyclable? what about the weight?
You'll have to google that question for your area. Yes, they sell recycled or refurbished batteries. They are lead acid batteries, very heavy, but very strong.
OMG video panned into his shed there WOW!
Welcome aboard!
how did u ground your wind turbine? where did u attach the ground wire? my wind turbine is 20 feet up its on water well poles. how would i go about grounding it?
Drive a 6 foot ground rod into the ground if you don't already have one nearby, then attach the metal tower to that ground rod with at least #6 solid copper wire. The PMA or PMG is already in contact with the metal tower so no wire is needed at that connection.
Welcome aboard!
This video is great thank you so much. I have one question...my energy usage is a little under 200kWh a month, would you think your set up would cover that much power or would I need a bigger set up?
Welcome aboard! You would probably need a slightly bigger system. I produce approx. 3.4kwh per day as is.
@@GBear Got 3 people in house so they consume a lot lol but going off grid soon, thanks for your help 👍
@@hulksmash3259 Good luck! Let me know if you need more info.
You are awesome, thank you
You're welcome! Welcome aboard X X!
I have installed wind turbine at my house... But due to variations in wind speed, am getting a different voltages based on the speed. So how can I control the voltage and get a constant voltage so that I can charge my battery. Because giving different voltages to the battery will damage my battery.
PMA's will always produce different readings according to wind speed, but a 12v pma should only put out 13.6 volts maximum, just like a car alternator.
PMA's will only put out the maximum rated watts when turning at the maximum rated speed for the blades, so slower winds create lower readings and this makes PMA's a poor choice for battery charging.
Wind power is only a backup for when the sun doesn't shine.
good info QUESTION for a newbie. What can you actually use this to power in your house? example your tv and a few lights? how long do all those batteries last if the wind power and solar is off? thanks man, just trying to learn here.
I power my cabin and workshops on my system, and have gone a week with overcast skies without running out of power.
G-Bear... wife and I are headed off grid and looking for a 48 volt wind turbine for our 48 volt off grid (ALTE PRE-WIRED SYSTEM SCHNEIDER SW4024 INVERTER WITH MIDNITE CL150SL CHARGE CONTROLLER). Will one of these wind turbines work with our system? Thank you for any input. Blessed and Happy New Year to You and Your Family!
Hi Ron! Welcome aboard!
So, am I correct in hearing that you already live off grid and have a 48v system using a SW4024?
That doesn't sound right. For a 48v system you should have the SW 4048. Also, a CL150 SL by Midnite won't work with a PMA. The SL is Solar Only.
I'll need more information in order to guide you correctly, or you can call 877-878-4060 for more info on the Alte prewired system. They can actually configure a system to meet your needs.
Note that there are 2 types of turbines. PMA & PMG. PMA is an alternator type with 3 wires, all the same color and needs a bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC before connecting to a charge controller.
Also, you need to be sure the size of the turbine output won't exceed the voltage input specs of the Midnite, so you may need the Midnight Classic 200 or 250, full controller, (not an SL).
Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
Happy New Year.
@@GBear Not totally off grid just yet! You are correct about the 4048! My typing ability is not as good as it used to be and spell check is even worse! I quite comprehend that the PMA and PMG are different in system function. I found it interesting that you had multiple connection points to your battery bank and were also utilizing wind charging. I have not seen this type of charging system/points - and you caught my attention! So - I will have to speak with you or altE to see if our second Absolyte 48v Battery Bank can be charged with wind or not. Modified Sine Wave vs Pure Sine Wave is something I am still attempting to learn. We are building an Steel Building Style Canopy w/ Container to cover our RV while I slowly put things together. The process is slow due to me having a heart attack in Feb '23 - but I am getting strong enough to continue the process. I'll need power in the sea container to supply power to tools while I work and power to the RV when we move to the top of the mountain. Thanks for responding to my comment (I know they are long!) - I apologize for that!
@rongray4118 Not a problem. Don't overdo it with working.