Best Ways To Strip Paint Off Your Project Car - Vintage Porsche 911
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- čas přidán 5. 05. 2020
- One of the biggest struggles of any car restoration is the daunting task of removing old paint and rust. Clearing off all that old paint and prepping the metal for the first coat of primer is critical for a long lasting and rust free paint job going forward. This video discusses four best ways to strip paint on your car project. #vintageporsche #vintage911
1) Mechanical - Wire wheels and Sanding Tools
2) Chemical Paint Strippers
3) Blasting Media
4) Dipping into a solution
I have my favorite methods as I'm sure you do too! Leave a comment about your favorite methods.
Strip It Disc Large:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53...
Eastwood Stripping Tool:
amzn.to/2WBC9Kr
Makita Sander:
amzn.to/3c6pvcO
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Hands down the best, and most detailed video on YT covering paint stripping. Thank you for such an informative video!!
Thank you😃
This guys delivers information to clearly, I love it. Thanks for the info.
My favorite method. Is take it to maaco and ask them just to strip it and put it in primer. Honestly it cost about 1000-1500 but they strip it to bare metal and you don’t lift a finger.
Not a bad idea!
Great video. Clear easy to follow instructions and very straight forward. Thank you for taking the time to make it and post it. 👍
Thanks man and you're welcome!
I’ve watched all your other shows and even though I’ve seen some of this before it was super helpful to see it all laid out with a shorter instructional focus.
Thanks for the feedback Dan. I will be doing more of these when I have a task finished from start to full completion. If you have a topic idea let me know. I have days of video!
Bravo...great video...totally complete
Great information. Thanks for passing it on. 👍
Sure👍. Thanks for watching
Excellent video!
Thanks CT!
Awesome advice! I used every method you described, every one is messy, but in the end, it’s worth it.
Very true, I did find one method that isn't messy....Writing a check! That's no fun either! Maybe it is for some?
Very cool video man
Thanks...great advice.
Concise and clear. Very well done.
Thanks👍
Dude great info, I’m retired or slightly retired, I knew all those methods excepte one ! And learning about new methods and tech , has been the old saying never stop learning...
Enjoy your retirement! Car restoration bus like a full time job!
I really appreciate the detail I your video! Thank you
Cool. Thx. For watching
Well done! I am just about to start a 1978 Fiat Spider restoration and this was very helpful. It appears true that a combination of techniques is preferred although I loathe the thought of the "new" strippers.
Best of luck on that fiat! You have to be able to read what's working and adapt. If you have deep rust pits, then spot media blast, if the chemical stripper is too slow than maybe buy another strip it disc. Hire a laborer if you have to. You'll get through it!
Great advice thanks. Starting my P car soon.
So glad you are starting in on your car! Hopefully your car doesn't give you too much grief, but expect some!
Great review 👍
Glad you liked it
Unless im missing something....I would not use a wire wheel on a gas tank as they spark....ka boom !.Great and very informative presentation.
This tank was previously heavily modified via cutting welding, etc. It was filled with water when cutting. Be safe, for sure.
on the chem stripping I agree, they are not like they use to be. I stripped a 356 around 1980 and it was easy. One coat and rag it off paint primer and all. Last time I stripped a car I went to a shop that uses plastic media like sand blasting. The surface looked like factory metal, no scratches, no media marks and it was worth the money.
I agree, except you have to scratch it anyway according to the primer manufacturers.
Great information I have a 79 wagoneer that's getting new paint soon
Cool, that's a cool machine👍
Thanks a lot for a very technical explanation, this makes me feel I should do my car myself, all I’m doing is stripping the interior and changing the colour cause it was painted before my possession and want to remove the sound deadening and paint it body colour but gloss to make it pleasing to the eyes, whilst keeping the car lightweight. It will take time to do but will do it with patience.
I agree it will take time, ha ha. You can do it though. Be safe👍
Thanks for the great video! Very insightful and helped me in selecting the proper way to start the bodywork on my project!
So glad that you are tackling a car project. I hope you enjoy it!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto very hard work actually but I love it. It’s a ‘91 Audi S2 Coupé btw
Cool car!
Great channel, lots of good and practical information...,
Perfect, that's what I like to hear.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Hi Tom, I really like your effort and time you put into this, why are there not more subscribers??? I myself work on a 914/4 at this moment...
Ha ha, I don't know. This video is designed to get subscribers! It solves a common problem and refers back to more of my videos. Outside of that, I need hot chicks I think.
I love 914's by the way😀
Big fan of these videos too.
Couple questions:
How did you handle surface rust between seams or place you couldn't reach?
What are your thoughts on rust converter?
Thanks
Use an inspection mirror or boroscope to see what's in there.
If there's just surface rust than I would probably fish a coat hanger and swab epoxy in there or inject it with a syringe.
Then after the entire car is painted I would spray cavity wax in there. There are lots of kits with snakes and sprayers that will reach everywhere.
Then inspect every year and reapply if needed
Personally, I don't like rust converters or POR15
Once the rust converter is there paint won't last long on top of it. It's an Acid!
If the paint does peel off then you have a mess in there.
Try a rusty piece of metal with rust converter on it and put it outside.
Try a rusty piece of metal with chainsaw oil/wax and see which one looks better after a month.
Do the same with epoxy primer.
Thanks for the great video, although I saw many of the videos, this gives a nice overview. You are right, there is a lot of debate on how to strip paint of cars. Still figuring out the best method for me. 2 questions. How did you strip the inside of the car doors, so the part where the door card is attached against? Under the trunk you went down to factory paint. Did you put epoxy primer on top of that?
thanks
Best, Robert
I used the same method for both the trunk and door insides. Degrease, then DA sand with 180 or 220. Tough to reach areas were sanded by hand with red scotchbrite. Then epoxy primer. Sand or scuff the epoxy to 400 then paint.
If you sand through to bare metal with the 180 in some spots it's ok. The epoxy primer is a great sealer so nothing will blead through to the final color.
If you use SPI epoxy you will see what the shiny surface looks like because the epoxy is pretty glossy.
GREAT JOB YOU EXPLAIN VERY WELL my arm back legs are in pain working on project on my wheels Now 😄 AND LOVE THE SPLIT WINDOW Beetle she Definitely deserves good attention I'm VW guy and have one of my own to perfection Show Room Condition I build it 5 years later never finish making it Look more beautiful🤙 its my Hobby with 40 years Experience in show cars Vintage Japanese motorcycle🤟 🚗
Very cool, I love VW's too. Wish I had more space!
Try PTI PTS-202 urethane & epoxy paint remover through aircraft source and specialty co. I will be using this on my 65 vw bug
Ok, thanks for the recommendation! I've ordered other tools from aircraft spruce before
Great video! Have you had any experience working with lead paint on any vehicles? If so, how did you handle that?
I have not, but I suspect the paint stripper method is best along with full PPE gear. This method puts less debris in the air and the chemical can be bagged up and disposed of correctly. I'm just guessing so please check with the authorities on the proper procedure.
I have a 71 Targa T it's being restored and I had it bead blasted years back and put some primer on it for now.
Cool. How's the primer holding up?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto At the time I used some primer out of a can to keep it from rusting the owner of the shop at the time recommended something called One step anyway it's been in a garage and in good shape no rust. I'm recently retired and have put a shop 11.8 CFM compressor in my 2 car garage once I finish the work I'm doing on the house the Porsche will get my attention. By the way my Porsche has the exact same wheels as yours.
Enjoy your retirement and that wonderful car. That should keep you plenty busy!
I am restoring an 89 Bronco that has had body work in some areas and been repainted once. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you have for how much of the paint needs to be stripped and what to do in areas where the previous painter put a skim coat of bondo on the whole panel. One of my concerns is warping some of these relatively flat panels. I want to do the best job possible on the new paint but I am not removing the interior and putting it on a rotisserie or other things that are way over my head, just to put in perspective. Your videos are very helpful and well presented. Any recommendations would be most greatly appreciated.
Painting over previous repairs is always dicey. Sometimes bad prior workmanship can ruin a paint job. You could strip the previously repaired spots down to bare metal and build it back up with the best materials, etc. if you find rust or failed coatings then continue to strip.
Bondoing an entire panel is a bit suspect already.
It's ok to paint over existing paint as long as it isnt cracked or bubbling.
Be sure to use lots of good quality sealer/epoxy primer.
Hope that helps. Best of luck on your paint work
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Great points. Thank you so much for taking the time to get back to me. As far as mechanical stripping, I have had bad experience with the contour sct. At the low speed it does not remove paint, at least not until your arm falls off, but at the higher speeds in addition to removing paint it severely warps the panel. Are the 8 inch strip disks on a grinder any better? Thank you again!
Quite nice overview. I just wonder if you put some research or testing also into laser cleaning?
I would if it weren't so expensive. Maybe in a decade the price will come down.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto
You forgot to mention laser striping, probably the most expensive method too!
Way too expensive!
Hi Tom. Maybe you allready have Said it,- but do you use 2K primer ? Thanks for all your inspirerering video. :-)
Hi, Yes lots of 2K primer! Epoxy, filler, 2K, sealer, basecoat, clear is the order I used.
Here's the 2K video
czcams.com/video/K4H82Kibbzk/video.html
I love these ideas. How do we do it with the car still intact? The windows amd trim are still on my car, and they will remain on the car.
I would tape off all the trim and windows and hit it with paint stripper below the windows and strip it disc only on the roof.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto ok thank you. I'll do that. Can you brush on the paint stripper? What stripper is best?
Yes, brush it on. Chemicals keep changing due to regulations. The best one comes from australia. Google cooper's strip club.
I like 3:35 metho soaked paper towel to remove water
Cool idea!
Wonder if anyone knows the best method for a Datsun 280z. I remember hearing something about them not being galvanized?
Maybe someone with a Z will respond, but I think the method would be the same. Even if it's galvanized it's still should be striped down. Just try not to take all the galvanizing off. My opinion is the epoxy primer today is better than galvanization anyway. But if course both is best.
where did you get your car dipped? I have been looking for a place in or near Minnesota to dip my 57 truck.
That wasn't my car, just an example. I believe it's hard to find a place to dip a whole car, there are a few in California though
About the Porsche , what’s the electro coat ? What is it for !?? And can you do the thing they do in car factories were they treat the cars against Rustin that bath? , like rust protection , and if yes how is it done ?
Electro coat is an inexpensive coatings by car factories to protects against corrosion. The parts are usually dipped in a solution and the paint is attracted electrically to the body part.
It's not that practical for a one time car resto.
Epoxy primer is a better anyway in my opinion.
Dipping a car is problematic because we can't rotate the cars like a factory would to allow all the air to escape.
Some shops will do it, but it's a huge commitment to prep a body for that kind of treatment.
Personally, I wouldn't do it.
Interested why it's attractive to you?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thanks for the answer, a friend of mine is a car restorer , some old cars are very notorious for rust (ex 1970s Fiats 600 and 126) , and I’ve seen many paint jobs that re-rust after a while most probably of exposed metal which wasn’t properly treated, I have always believed that redipping cars in this solution would solve the problem , but as you said epoxy primer is better because it’s much easier
Yes! And buy a boroscope camera to inspect and maintain. It's very possible to prevent rust, but they all take work!
Im stripping some MC stuff right now. Any AC stripper is gonna vê the better choice but Tal Strip AC stripper is the best. Can blast the paint off with a hose, no worries about marring with a scraper. I can't find any though so I bought that Jasco trash. Wont even strip paint off plastic parts. I thought id kill the plastic but I ended up killing my budget on just fixing that shit.
Coopers strip club from Australia works. Hard to find the good stuff in the USA anymore.
@GarageTimeAutoResto Yeah I kinda learned that it's gotta come from over seas but at the same time if they're savy enough clearing customs since its technically not allowed can be an issue. I've gotten stuff from China already that worked too good. My conscience messed with me a lot. For some reason I can get tons of shit from China. Fast too.
Where can I get the Strip-It Discs that you used on your Makita Sander, I can't find them?
I found these with a quick Google search
www.combatabrasives.com/products/clean-finish-sanding-disc?variant=43139716546723¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwu4WoBhBkEiwAojNdXmitAqLo7KGl4j5FG5abLqeDw8_rMgJv24sW2krZSOT8KfS0Lk1g3RoCqdUQAvD_BwE
Im working on striping the paint from my 1979 porsche 911, the paint job is really bad but do you think that i should just take it in and spend like 3500 on it or should i just try and do it myself? i dont have the most money so this would wipe me out but i really dont wanna spend that much time on the paint job... also how long did it take you to strip it and paint it?
Paint work is very time consuming. My car was 3-4 months. Materials were only around $800
Last year I spent over $25 on paint removers to take very old paint off polished aluminum wheels. It did absolutely nothing. I was doing more damage to the aluminum than the paint. The remover was sold in the same containers as previous years, but contained no Methyl Chloride, but was "Odor Free".
I found in the garage a pint can of the old style remover. I could both apply and remove the paint at the same time with a tooth brush, the paint lifted so fast.
I will look for a source of the real thing if I am in need again.
Let me know if you find it. I'm told to check with a local airport shop.
What respirator do you use when painting? TIA
I use the one linked below which has the carbon chemical filter plus pre-filters
amzn.to/3q59f23
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thank you very much.
What is the best method to strip a car with chemical paint stripper where windows are still in car?
Tape them off with plastic and strong tape
What paint stripper did you use
I used aircraft stripper, but it was the good stuff. Hard to find now with mec.
Would you ever roll on a primer? I’m going to get my car as close to ready for paint but nervous to use a spray gun. My car is an 1979 going to a backdate.
Hi Dan,. The only danger in rolling on the primer is that you may get bubbles. Not such a big deal on the bottom of the car but you don't want that on the exterior.
My advise is to buy the harbor freight gun and try it. Buy their regulator and filter too. $30 and you could throw it all away. That assumes you have an air compressor.
@Dan Altvater >Dan, This is a disheartening issue for anyone trying to do everything right on a vintage vehicle. Garage Time is correct about “Sealing” with epoxy. Once clean to bare metal, even epoxy needs some to stick to and if you see the video again, you will see SPI Epoxy primer / sealer. I would prefer that primer is not printed on those products. But many, like SPI has some unique qualities. Like any epoxy, it sticks, but this needs a tooth and a clean 80 grit is it. Reduced at 50% with SPI “Urethane Reducer” it can work as a primer.
Like the info in this video, you need to protect from flash rust. After rains, then 80’s temps, the concrete in my garage was wet. The higher the moisture in the air, the higher the temp, the faster flash rust on bare metal starts a film of rust. Having you ducks in a row help, but clean with the manufactures cleaner works, sand with DA and air clean, solvent W/G cleaner, hang your tack rag up to dry out in the washer/dryer room before you start so hours later, it is not as sticky & with air, tack off metal, tape, paper & plastic. Wet the floors if able. But have you gun, clean dry air in a dedicated hose and adjust as needed. But get the epoxy on it. Two coats is recommended if I remember. SPI Epoxy has 7 days or work time, meaning you can apply filler on shallow dents or spray high build two part. What this does is create a catalyzed product to cure with a catalyzed epoxy base. 7 days later, both had grown together into one large molecule shaped liked like your vehicle. Just note, research, call customer support and ask. If they are honest about you success, they will tell you the information to make it the best body work. This is where paint jobs come from. Primers are to allow room for sanding panels straight. High Build helps with imperfections and sand scratches and get straight. Once everything is inspected with strong light, the eye will find defects, highs, lows, junks or called “NIBs”. Who knows! But clean W/G, tack & air, spray base & clear or single stage that is just color and shine added to resins & binders. I am do my very last vehicle...for me! So bet your boots I am researching product. This why we are here on this video. For you, me & anyone in the future if it’s their first vehicle or their 800th. We want to learn. Primer like the roll on stuff, works. But it could allow some moisture to find a tiny spot and get to metal. Seam sealer is as important as the paint. Every place 2 pieces of metal come together need sealed, except on the bottom or doors, rocker panels, rear quarter panels and behind front wheels under the fender. They need open and the inside sealed. 3M, Eastwood or other will help it last another 40 - 50 years. God bless and stay safe! ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
What kind of paint thinner is that called?
SPI wax and grease remover
What stripping chemical were you using?
This was kleanstrip aircraft stripper. Now they sell the non MEH stuff which isn't as good.
No good is probably more accurate 😉
If having your vehicles dipped, check the company and the technician doing the work. First, hanger the vehicle wrong will cause damage. Sodium hydroxide is a common alkaline and will make the metal thinner. This is a race car trick because it reduces weight. Seam sealer and unibody cars make it worse as seam sealer can trap chemicals under it. Remember, the chemicals used in seam sealers has changed in the last 10 years. If dipping a car, it is most likely older than ten years. Scrape, pry, chisel all of it out. If you have a 66 GTO, you can have two gallons of seam sealer, applied by tube, brushed, troweled on with two paint sticks taped together. Use a smoke machine to check hidden cavities on unibody cavities. They are common for finding EVAP leaks. They can be cheap to make or buy, but show everything. Drill holes after practice with a handful of rubber grommets, good ones. 1/2” - 3/4” is plenty big for draining & use seam seam sealer in the channel of the grommet before installing. Consider the bottom and wheel houses. These places are best for Raptor $135 kit w/4 bottles & Shotz gun. Two part catalyzed it sticks and seals. Never use a can of rubberized undercoat. This will hold water as it separates from the undercarriage. You can plan on a failure. Just a few thoughts. Think it though but have all you produces ready to go like SPI epoxy sealer. It is epoxy, requires 80 grit after W/G cleaner, comes in 3-4 colors.
Automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired.
Great advice here! Trapped air or chemicals is the downfall of dipping. Lots of planning required as stated above!
How many hours did you spend just stripping it since we see it in 100X ?
I thought I said it in the video, but it was one day plus a little more to prep for primer. I wanted to get primer on it right away
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Sorry must have missed that part
If there’s no rust why not just sand down to the original primer and go from there ? Nothing beats original factory primer right ??
Do you mean the galvanized coating? Today's primers are miles ahead of the 50 year old primer from Porsche.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I’m honestly not too sure. Is galvanized coating the first process a cars steel goes threw in the factory? I’ve only painted a 1971 super beetle. It was a learning process. When I was sanding I thought the original primer was doing such a good job of protecting the steel that I figured just sand down to that. Put a quick coat of fresh primer on to freshen it up and then apply paint.
I had no idea what I was doing but it seems to be ok.
Now I’m about to do my 1969 Chevy G10 van but I wanna do this one right and go right down to metal. It’s gonna be a lot of work. The one thing that stands out to me now is- so I’d have to get the van stripped , properly cleaned up , and primed all in one go or one day ? Or you’ll get that quick flash rust? That seems like the hardest part of the whole job. Am I wrong ? You musta been beat after all that in one go.
Yep, it's a lot of work. If it's a van, you will probably have to do it in sections unless you have a helper. A 911 is a small car!
I always click on videos about strippers.
Ah yea, bare naked body
Wik's Garage 🤦♂️
How many views would I get if I had strippers striping paint with strip it disc? I'm thinking a lot.
Wondered why he would spend the $$$ on dipping but then saw the split window.
I hope it worked out for him. Nice car!
Lots of work, no matter which method used to strip.
Totally agree!
14 layers of paint?!
Including primer and filler, but yeah crazy!
I hate blasting it makes such a mess
Me too. A blast cabinet is really nice for small parts though.
Always put on etching primer on bare metal. Etching primer is not the same as regular primer.
Epoxy primer is a more modern approach and far superior in my opinion.
messy time consuming and crazy, just dip the car to totally remove all paints etc to bare metal.
Did you watch the whole video?
Update for chemical stripping at home Aug. 2022. Online purchases of “Coopers Strip Club” products from New Zealand have free shipping, no country code required to call, Mrs. Cooper answers the phone and video on CZcams can be found. It is a two step application of the chemical stripper spray, no plastic required, works on fiberglass Vettes or boat, sold as kits of $250 USD gets refills of part 1 & 2. DIY Automotive School with Pete is detailed as well as owners videos posted as well. It uses a chlorinated base and a flusher (Their Name) but bubbles up, scrape off and dispose and part 1 can sting your bare arms a little, they sell a cream you rub on. Coopers Strip Club, so if charge appears on the card and married, how you explain in advance this charge and what it is for! Aug, 2019 the EPA made methylene chloride illegal to sell to the pubic. Yes, they know better. They site 41 people have lost their lives using this product from 1976 to 2017, the same number of children shot in Chicago eating breakfast each month. (Sorry Chicago) but our government had destroyed the DYI nation of car guys/gals everywhere for aircraft stripper because they can’t track disposal and they are much smarter than us! So, check out videos, website and you become informed. I do not gamble or produce videos and dislike the idea of Amazon partners to make your extra $0.13 cents. I get it, but not me!
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired awaiting lumbar procedure #39, if Dr calls. PS, injury not related to 6’3” guy working on cars! Sorry!
Thank you for this update. I'd love to try it.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto It works, but if you have a small pump sprayer sold at paint stores or home improvement stores, get a funnel. I find it easy to pump, the pull trigger as needed but not that much is used. Refill size may do 10 vehicles or 14.2 Porsches. lol, Just a thought. Stay safe! DK, Omaha
What paint stripper did you use
Aircraft stripper. I think the brand is klean strip. You want the methylene chloride stuff if you can find it
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thank you subscribed
Thanks!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I found non methylene chloride. do you think that would still work?
Test with a small can first. In my experience it takes a long time to bubble and will need 3-4 coats. Once the paint is softened a little bit the strip it disc does most of the work.
Like I said in the video paint strippers today just aren't as good.