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How to fix a CLUNKY car. ENGINE and TRANS MOUNTS!
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- čas přidán 20. 01. 2018
- Replacing all three engine mounts in a Chevy HHR. Very detailed and informative.
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Tip, when lifting engine to remove/install mount, look at the slot for the belt tensioner and use that as your guide to level engine. The bolt has to line up in the middle of the slot in order for you to be able to put in a 15mm socket and extension without struggling. This is how I found out that I needed a mount. When I looked, the bolt was under the slot so there was no way I would be able to replace tensioner until I lifted engine and replaced mount..
As a HHR owner I really appreciate the time you take to do your videos.
Thank you very much!
Excellent video, very impressed by how direct and fluid this video is
Thanks for the vid. Helpful for g5s too. I’m fat so I had to get the middle bolt for the rear mount from above.
Already change mine. No problem at all. Thanks J!!
Thanks for the video. I just found out my upper one is leaking while I was replacing alternator today.
Great advice. Thanks for sharing. Pinned!
Thank you for doing this video. DIY Strong! Just what I needed.
Great video This will be my next project!!
Thank you for this video. Very informative.
Pepboys was asking my dad $1,000 to replace the front and rear engine mounts only for an Equinox 2013. This is a job that can be done in 4 to 5 hours. I'll be doing this over the weekend with my dad.
Should be very similar to an HHR. Be advised, there's one more mount that sits on top of the trans. I have a 2015 Equinox. I'm sure I'll be doing the mounts at some point as well. Excellent that you're doing this with your Dad. Be careful and have fun saving money! Thanks for watching!
Thank for this. !!! Will be doing the same....
Thanks! Just wrapped up changing all three mounts on my 2009 HHR.
Good job! Just so you know, there one more on the driver's side.
Thank you for uploading. Video was great help.
Hey wanted to say great video, just finished all 3. I struggled with the bottom two motor mounts for a good 4 hours because the bolts had rusted shut, it made me laugh when you said each should've taken 30 minutes 😭
Lovely video, helped me with my 08 cobalt 2.4L! Also, use threadlocker blue if you can get any!
Very informative video. I think I have to replace all 3 mounts on wife's Cobalt at 82k miles I think they're all shot. I hear clunking esp from front right corner going over bumps/irregularities in the pavement. I've just replaced all 4 struts/shock absorbers and noise is still present.
Change the sway bar bushings, even if they don't seembad. My HHR clunked for years sway bar bushings took care of it. Honestly, they looked absolutely fine.
Great video ✊🏾
Excellent video
I need to do this job I got a new front end with sway bar bushings linkage bars we got the same exact car I got 140000 it’s so nice 400 to a tank awesome car
This video is awesome. Thanks!
Hi good Job bro
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Thanks for this video!
Thanks for making this video.
Really helpful for which parts to buy and approximate timing on how long each mount may take.
I'm glad I could help.
Thanks. Your help was awesome 👌
Thanks for watching and good luck!
Only problem that i get is when i put my SUV into Reverse i get a Clunk sound and when i go over Small bumps it sounds like a bad Strut Mount but all of my front Struts are Brand New and i thought that my mounts went bad so in the front and had the Struts reinstalled again to find out The Noise is still there on the Passenger Side and as soon as i put into reverse with the brake on i get a clunk.
This video is great Video
Glad i found it,
Check those away bar bushings at the frame mounts. Mine looked just fine but were definitely the source of a clunk. Changed them and all was well.
I have had 30 year old cars with the same motor mounts, this is crazy
Good information
Great video,,!!!,!,!,!,
I Have a 2006 Pontiac Torrent SUV FWD, 3.4L v6, I Just had All Brand New Parts installed.
2 new Struts, 2 new lower control arms, 2 new stabilizer links, 2 new front Wheel Hub bearings, 2 new CV Axle Shafts. But now kinda have new problem as when i put the SUV into (Drive) it's fine, but as soon as i Put it into (Reverse) while holding the brake peddle you Here a Clunk, from the Passenger Side front, and also when driving over bumps on the road ways i can here a popping Sound, had the Struts rechecked and no problems. could it be that the upper Engine Mount cause this Problem.
👍🏾 nice vid
Keep up the great D.I.Y.s for the Chevy HHR, hard to find good tutorials for this model. What to change timing chain and water pump on my 2006 HHR, have any good advise.
Trevor Griffin Thank you and I will. See the playlist for exactly what you're planning to do. Thanks!
Chevy HHR: czcams.com/play/PL_oS4mqejKZrIJ8JORNb3dE_-S95PNL0c.html
This looks very similar to my Cobalt, so maybe I'll try fixing this myself sometime. On mine, the front mount that's on the bottom, the metal casing around the rubber broke off(just to the left of where you put your finger @ 10:47, by the little plus-shaped protrusion), so the rubber is bulging out and isn't really being supported very well. I'm sure replacing will fix a lot of the vibration I'm getting.
Roger that! I'm sure it's a very similar set up. Thanks for watching!
@Jonathan A Update; Indeed it was exactly like the video! Super easy except for putting one bolt back into the rear mount for the transmission; the exhaust manifold and pipe were kind of in the way.
Did he say "Finagle?" LOL Anywho, great video. A+ grade.
Lol. Probably did! 😃
You didn't replace one of the mounts
Yea after 213k miles I gotta replace the mounts I never guessed it till someone tolled me about it I've done alignment, replace swaybar, break pads and rotors. Took me about 200 dollars in parts before someone tolled me.
Should plan on changing the sway bar bushings as well. Those were a source of a frustrating clunk as well, although they looked fine.
Great Video! And it applies to my '07 Malibu 2.2L because of the Ecotec engine. However.....Why doesn't ANYBODY ever talk about the 4th Mount? Driver's Side, Under the Battery Tray in my case. But the battery tray ALSO contains the fuse block and it looks like the TCM/Computer will have to be removed also. Any thoughts or Suggestions would be GREATLY Appreciated!
At the time I did this video I had no idea about the other mount. If I had, I would've changed it for sure. Maybe this is your chance to fill a void. I've sold the HHR and bought a truck (new playlist). Thanks for watching and commenting!
I went and checked and indeed there is one under the fuse box on my HHR. It is also a dead giveway when ordering the kit from rock auto.
So what about the upper transmission mount under the engine fuse block/relay block?
I'm trying to figure out how to get to that mount and there aren't any videos on how to get to the upper side trans mount
My engine mounts had gone bad just after 6 months and 3k kms. There was a rattling sound from the transmission due to this. I filled a small part of the mount with silicon sealant, the rattle went away but now the transmission is clunking like you mentioned the shocks going up and down while going in potholes. Since there is no visible defect in the mount, will tightening it resolve the problem? I think they have these set nm torquing on the bolts to give some flexibility to the mounts. Will tightening it further resolve the problem?
Karan Agarwal I don't think so. Change your sway bar bushings first. They can look fine but the rubber gets hard and allows the "clunky" noise to transfer to the car body. I have a video for that. czcams.com/video/gdW-OZ3vcp0/video.html
Hi J., there is no sway bar in my car. It was rattling in the beginning, I put some temporary stuffing inside the big gaps of the driver side engine mount and the rattling was gone, but it put pressure on the passenger side mount and I could hear weird noises coming from there when shocks go up and down.
Hi J. I'm getting new mounts put in my car. Is there a sequence to follow to torque the nuts and bolts of the mounts? Like first the dog bone, then the driver side and then the passenger, then tighten the mount screws?
Been having the same issues with the flex pipe breaking and just realized I needed the motor mounts. What kind of mounts are you using? Been seeing a lot of hate towards the aftermarket ones. Are these Chinese ones okay so far?
Jonathan Morganism So far all good! If there is some issue I'll post another video about what the issue is. Thanks for watching.
J. Hunto's Garage thanks for the quick reply. Do you know the brand you decided to install by chance?
Jonathan Morganism I'm sure I can find that. Can you message me on Instagram?
After owning a Pontiac G6 with everything seized up after 150,000 mi I will never work on a car on the ground again. I got so much more leverage with a car lift it made everything on the ground seem like a total waste of time.
Agreed! Lifts are a Godsend.
Would this be the same process for a 2010 malibu, since it has the same engine.
Angel T. I would guess very close. Hit me up on Instagram and I'll try to answer any questions. Thanks for watching!
I do not have Instagram I really do not do social media, spend my on cars lol. Any other way to ask questions? Email?
Just be careful when buying passenger-side mount. For a 2009 there are three different models. 25974059 (Purple) 25974060 (White) and 25974058 (Yellow). Check the top of the old motor mount. It should have a dab of paint in one of these colors. Two of these mounts are for manual transmissions and one is for the automatic tranny. The transmission mounts also vary with the type of transmission in the car.
Excellent info. Thanks for sharing!
Will this work the same for the hhr ss?
I suspect yes. Thanks for watching!
Any torque specs?
Calibrated elbow works best for me unless it's a critical part. Best to follow manufacturer's specs.
wow your car is so clean for 220,000 miles
Thank you. That is really the only reason why I still have it. And no rust! Thanks for watching!
you forgot the mount under the fuse box
You're correct! Good eye.
I have a 2010 Chevy HHR do I have a mount under my fuse box?
I'm not entirely sure about that.
It appears maybe you can just replace the worn out .rubber
No way that I know of. I guess you could do something at home with liquid polyurethane. Where there's a will there's a way. ;)
Thank You! But PLEASE ALWAYS include TORQUE SPECS FOR ANY NUTS and BOLTS! These can be a bitch to find!