How to Plant Multiple Fruit Trees in a Small Space - High Density Back Yard Orchard Culture
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 06. 2024
- Inspired to make the use of our suburban yard space, this video looks at how to plant multiple trees in the space normally occupied by a single fruit tree. Sometimes referred to as “Backyard Orchard Culture” or “High Density Planting”, this makes it possible for a suburban or even urban grower to enjoy a variety of fruit trees where they wouldn’t otherwise be able to. The main takeaways include managing tree height through use of a low Nitrogen fertilizer, and by pruning using quality bypass shears like those linked below.
🌳Get access to exclusive members-only perks here:
/ @thebusygardener
🌳SUBSCRIBE: czcams.com/users/TheBusyGard...
Follow me to stay updated
🌳ITEMS I USE AND RECOMMEND (ALL IN ONE PLACE)
www.amazon.com/shop/thebusyga...
🌳TBG Instagram Account:
/ thebusygardeners
🏷️--DEALS--
**Get LIVE Plants Delivered to You:
shrsl.com/3cve9
**IV-Organics (Tree Whitewash, Fertilizer):
ivorganics.com (10% off Code: BUSY10)
**Epic Gardening (Birdies Beds, Seed Starters, Etc):
shop.epicgardening.com?aff=31 (5% off Code: TBG5)
**DripDepot (TONS of Irrigation supplies)
aff.dripdepot.com/aff/idevaff...
**Magidome (DIY geodesic dome)
magidome.com/?ref=uxgwewb1ao (10% off Code: GetBusy)
The Busy Gardener MERCH STORE
thebusygardener.com/shop
My Latest Video:
• CHEAPO Pruning Shears ...
For Business and/or Sponsorship please contact:
cameron@thebusygardener.com
Edited by the illustrious Evan M. Gallagher / livelongdienever
Some item/store links (such as Amazon) may be part of an affiliate program which help to support The Busy Gardener channel at no additional cost to you - Jak na to + styl
*Did you know that your plants will grow better when you hit "join" above?* 😂 Seriously, would you consider supporting The Busy Gardener as a monthly member? A couple bucks a month gets you some sweet perks. czcams.com/channels/GQtXp5PQ0qIHUIx-8kkR0Q.htmljoin
Yup. Been doing this for years and always have best yard. What I always tell people is-does the forest have trees spaced out? The jungle?
It boggles the mind, until you look EVERYWHERE ELSE in the natural world 😂
That's an encouragement. Thank you 👍👍
So how far do you space yours?
@@genejaytre in nature things are one foot apart so just like that. If there is spot I give 1-2 ft gap. It depends if it’s a pecan tree it needs space but all fruit trees don’t need much space. Always feed organic material. Microchonzia, mulch, fish emulsion, worm castings are always your best friend. If the soil is healthy spacing doesn’t matter as plants will share nutrients. The blacker your soil is the more healthier it is. Soil is everything to success in an orchard. I had unhealthy clay in my entire backyard now in all mulch beds it’s pitch black and everything succeeds.
@@TheBusyGardener what is your climate because I live in New England and I don’t know if pomegranates will survive and come back after the following winter? I know apples will in this area
You got me at “Bla bla bla bla bla!” Just the questions I wanted answered 😅. Thank you for the tips 👍🏼and for the laugh 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Awesome! Thank you!
This is a great video. I am an experienced gardener with a mini orchard of 13 trees and I was able to learn a lot from this video. It presented information in a simple informative way that filled in some of the gaps left by other videos on a similar topic.
Glad it was helpful! This type of growing is scary to lots of people, so I'm grateful it provided some additional info :)
Good info you dont need dwarf root stock
Thank you for this video. I have been trying to find someone that were doing this with regular sized trees. Excellent.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching, Anna
Excellent video…Our lot is 5550sq Ft with 1700 sq Ft house. We have around 25 fruit trees some dwarf and some not so much. You confirmed what my plan was in keeping my trees to the height I want..We live in zone 10A.
They are the perfect height for deer and squirrels.
Thanks! I like this idea! I have planted most of my apple and pear trees as espalier (a foot apart from compound walls), but I can only do so against the walls that receive direct sunlight. This arrangement will allow me to plant even more fruit trees!
I love it!
Funny, I am slowly building the front to have a higher density. During all our lockdowns here in Melbourne we turned the front lawn into an orchard and now into a food forest setup. We are about to do a 2 or 3 close planting of apples (for some reason my 6-year-old daughter wants a golden apple lol I didn't plant one). In 60 sq metres trying to balance, trees, bushes, ground and annuals like pumpkins and peas has been a challenge lol. I have 7 trees at the moment, 5 multi grafts and wanting another 7 more lol
I love that! Sounds like you also got bitten by the bug 😂
@@TheBusyGardener yep lol, just ordered 3 more multi grafts, for a total of 10 more varieties lol, it's a problem lol
What multi graft trees do you have , my wife and I have a 4 pear 4 apple 4 cherry and 4 pluot tree
Ah yes! A miyawaki orchard!
Great videos! Thank you. I’m also planting high density. Great to see others using it in practice.
Thanks for tuning in! What have you got planted that you feel is working the best in your high density planting?
Love this! Planting different varieties with different harvest times close together is brilliant.
Thanks so much! This is an awesome video. Next spring I am planting out a backyard orchard and plan to do it just like this. It was great so see it in someone's yard!
Wow, I had never considered high density fruit trees! Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Glad I could help! They're great!
I'm trying that Dave Wilson thing this year. I already have many trees. I just ordered 6 trees from Trees Of Antiquity. Doing 4 trees in one hole and put the other 2 in their own spot. Thanks for the good video.
Cool! What trees are you getting? Apple? What has done the best for you in your home orchard?
Looks great! I have similar plan with multiple trees, but I have to let them grow vertically instead. This is thanks to damn deer attack in Fairfax, Virginia, where I live. I am using metal fences around the trees that unfortunately make my orchard look ugly. I am hoping eventually the deer population will be gone forever due to hunting and road accidents. I hate them so much! Thanks for sharing!
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing.
Four words...YOU ARE A BOSS!
Thank you. Exactly what I need! I’m inspired to try this out
You can do it!
Man this fantastic a great and blessed lay out for fruit tree growing.Iam a tropical fruit fan ..! I want to try three different guava trees and mango trees along with peach trees. Thank you so much for sharing your dedication and support !
Thank you! I've got a cluster of 3 guavas planted using this same method. They're doing great!
very informative and generous video about fruit trees in small space. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I appreciate that encouragement, and hope the vid helped!
Excellent strategy for home gardeners like me. I don't need high yields. Thanks for letting me understand some thinking out of the box. Wow. Thanks.
It changes the backyard grower's game!
I found this video very informative and encouraging
We have an area just about the same size as your test orchard. And i was thinking I'd only be able to get 4 varieties in there, at best. Very very encouraged! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! It's surprising how much you can grow in a small space like this 😀
Hello Cameron, just found your wonderful channel and subscribed straight away after seeing you with Kevin the Epic Gardener. Now watching back to back episodes on your miniature fruit trees as I planted my first 4 on Saturday 🥰
It's so good to have you! You've been infected with the tree bug, and it only gets worse from here! 😂
@@TheBusyGardener 🤣🤣🤣
Absolutely fantastic video! Very inspiring and encouraging! Thank you!
Hi Thom. Thanks for the kind words!
@@TheBusyGardener
Very well deserved!
I saw it few years back. I think good to try.
Thank you about your video. Have you good day. 💐😀👍🌺✈️
I had been wondering if a regular sized tree which has not been grafted onto any dwarfing rootstock could still be maintained as small and you answered that question! Now I can plant some tiny trees in places where I never thought I could! I just planted 4 fruit trees 8 feet apart and the most difficult part for me is choosing how to prune them for desired size,
Thank you!
Brilliant and inspirational. . Thanks
Cool concept!! Great video!
Thanks, Christopher! It's worked out really well for us, and I think makes the whole fruit tree thing manageable for the average person. Have you got any fruit trees planted?
Amazing
Thanks
Your video gave me some good ideas for grafting... earliest fruiting on the north (in northern hemisphere) and latest on the south. I want to do an apple+pear variety tree and peach/plum/apricot variety tree... maybe applicable to grapes too.
Good stuff.
Thanks for watching, Technosaurus! Multi-budded trees are essentially the same concept, just on a single tree. I haven't tried grafting though I may go for a multi-stone, multi-apple sometime just to see how many fruit I can get on a single tree. If you think of it, report back in with how it goes.
Thank you so much great video😃 I really learned a lot👍🏽
So glad it helped! 😊
Great information! Thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic video. I was inspired by the book "Grow a Little Fruit Tree". The author talks about the first cut that should be about knee high. My mini orchard, not as impressive as yours though, is in its 3rd leaf, has no fruits yet. Hoping this is the year. Thank you for showing yours!
Thanks, LAX! That sounds like the perfect book. I've heard this method referred to as growing a little fruiting bush. What types of fruit have you got planted?
I just ordered and read that book! Ima little late on a few trees and will be attempting a "correction prune" this winter.
Well, I'm glad I came across this video, because I have been planting a 'fruit hedgerow' along the top of my sloping garden for the past 2 years, so that all the plants get the best of the sun.
Lately, I've been wondering whether it had been a good idea to plant the apples several feet apart with smaller fruit bushes squeezed in between.
I plan to keep the apple trees quite short (so I can reach), but still had nagging doubts whether all those gooseberries, currants, etc were just a little too close to the apples. (I do intend to mulch heavily afterwards, using this fantastic mass of beech mast I have here, so there's no question of soil fertility being a problem).
Having seen this and seen how close together the plants are, I am sure I'm on the right track. Thanks!
Hi Debbie! It's amazing how well plants can grow in less space than commercial orchards would seem to indicate. The one thought on your planting between trees is to ideally have sunlight hitting the smaller plants as well. Planting them slightly forward of the trees so they get good sunlight may be something to consider. Happy gardening :)
I just put in my 2nd apple tree about 6ft away from my first apple tree. I’ll keep you posted.
Well done! Let me know how it turns out
Thanks for this info.
You bet!
Thank you. Just great. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍😎🐶
Hey Busy Gardener,I have a friend at the north end of Euclid in Upland. He has a few orchards going. So tropical, others more stonefruits and Avo's, passion fruits etc. Still trying to get him to get a ton of wood chips as you have.
Looks great though. Your spread looks very nice and well put together.
Hi Viper, San Antonio Heights (or North Upland) is such a great area for growing fruit - much of it was citrus groves for many years. Tell your friend to get busy with mulch! lol Maybe your friend and I need to shoot an episode of TBG over at their place.
Great info Thank you! Hope you made a video on pruning, and how often you can prune.
Thanks for watching! I've got a handful of pruning videos on this playlist that should help. czcams.com/play/PLScRNuJpsSkxX6m7IuTsndsw71PA5aaJD.html
@@TheBusyGardener Thank you so much for getting back with me. What kind of hand pruners are the best? What do you use? Money is not a problem really just want something that will last, thank you again, Cathy By the way they will be used for pruning tree branches Apple, fig, pear I appreciate your knowledge and your generosity.
Will be planting ten different heirloom fruit trees in the Catskill mountain region in New York on about a third of an acre. This is the perfect solution. Great information/video.
That is awesome! I'm honored to help guide a small part of your adventure.
@@TheBusyGardener I would welcome all the help I can get. This is the first time that I am doing this so I want to do it right.
Thank you!
Great guy
I really wish I would have found this video before I planted all my trees...LAST WEEKEND. 😢 I can probably still do it adding to what I just put out though.
Hi Angela! That has been my story so many times. If I could replant the entire thing over again I would have done a lot the same, but changed some key things like which trees to group. It doesn't solve your current issue, but like you said (and like I've also done) you can plant any new trees closer to your current plantings to increase the density. Thanks for sharing!
Genius. Thank you
Glad it helped!
Awesome video mate, keep up the good job
Thanks a ton!
Good on ya mate great show
Thanks for watching! 💪
Greetings from Nova Scotia, Canada! The most important thing you have said is that as backyard gardeners we do NOT need all that commercial orchard space for our fruit trees! I have known this now for several years and what I find most frustrating is that the planting instructions that come with all fruit trees are for commercial orchards! It is quite ironic that these instructions actually cause the nurseries to sell less fruit trees to the home gardener!
Anyway take care and stay safe!
So true! It's unfortunately not a great fit for the home grower when they get commercial advice!
Man! I was thinking this would be possible in my corner of the yard I’ve looked at making part of the garden!
Totally an option for small areas!
Great info with this video . Are you doing an update soon on your orchard ?
Thanks, Jesus. Have you seen any of the other videos on here? TONS of updates and lessons.
That’s awesome! Very nice and helpful. Do you have any comments about deer pressure or other things a home gardener/orchardist would want to think about in zone 7? Thanks!
I haven't got a lot of experience with deer, so can't offer any real help! Given that much of the fruiting canopy is within deer range, I imagine that some sort of physical barrier around your orchard would make the most sense.
This is awesome
Thanks, FTM!
Super helpful, ty!
Glad it helped!! 😊
Great tips
Thanks!
Great video, very illuminating! I struggle with pruning so your technique and explanation was helpful. Do dwarf varieties need to be chosen to prune low? Thank you!
I had an opposite strategy on my fruit orchard, i bought 12 varieties of dwarf/grafted seedlings of tropical fruit trees many years back, and spaced them 4 or 5 ft apart only along the border/fence of my lawn, so i can use the main space for other functions like get togethers/car parking. . I let them grow dramaticallt for visual impact , hardly pruning them since i want that space to look like a forest park. I mulch but am too lazy to put them in a shredder to break them down easily. I hardly prune unless somebody volunteers to do it for me. Though you surely will be producing more fruits than i did, i find your method labor intensive. I got new ideas though from your video. Tnx.
Hi Gela, Thanks for sharing your method. When it comes to being labor intensive, I've found it's a trade-off. Each thing I do (or don't do) will affect my yield. I could get away with doing a lot less, but I (generally) really enjoy working on it and seeing how my care/pruning choices bear out. Pruning, thinning, feeding, etc. are all work, and it's all about what you're trying to accomplish. I would be driven a little nuts knowing I could have a better yield, or larger/tastier fruit. As busy as I am, I haven't found it to take tons of time or urgent attention (unlike a veggie garden).
Exactly you’re just a lazy pos
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Hi, we live on 20 acres with half that available for planting. My goal for our orchard is to have plenty of fruit to preserve via canning or dehydrating so that our large family (10 at this point) can enjoy the fruit year round. I plan to plant 2 or three trees of each fruit and don’t want them huge. At what height should I top them for the end result to be approximately 10’? How close should I plant them?
How cool! You've got a TON of space, so you don't need to plant in as high density as we do. I generally space my clusters of trees 10-12 feet apart from each other, and the trees within the planting are spaced about 2.5-3 feet from trunk to trunk. I top my deciduous trees around 2-2.5 feet, and they have no issue growing to 10 feet high
Very good.
Thanks!
I'm late to the game here. I realize this video is several years old. Just wanted to say thank you. Its very helpful. Also, one question for clarity: How do you ensure good pollination. If early, mid, and late season are close together, i am guessing the flowering periods don't overlap too much. Do you have to have other trees of the same seasonality close by?
Hi Paula, thanks so much for watching! For trees that require pollination from a compatible Neighbor, the blooms do you have to overlap. For the self fruitful varieties, this can help give a larger crop but isn't required. It's a little bit hard to tell in my orchard because I've got lots of overlap. I tried to place compatible pollinators close to each other to help
Very informative video. Love that you mentioned the part about low nitrogen fertilizer, many leave that out.
Hi KGT, that Low N is the secret in the sauce for keeping tree size manageable (second to pruning, that is).
You can pick a granny smith in january , i have done so. September is a pretty early apple.
Hi Rose! Our later apples are just starting to produce, so I'll have to see how long they hang on the tree. I know in SoCal, our warmer temps seem to move the harvest timeline up pretty significantly compared to cooler locales.
This is SO helpful to see how you planted and pruned these trees. I'm still kind of confused about dwarf tree pruning though... If you cut at knee height, will the tree still grow to 10' tall? or more like 6' (at full maturity)? I need to figure that out before I prune mine. Thank you so much for sharing your garden with us.
So glad it helped! Cut down at knee height, these trees will still reach their full mature height. This topping is primarily done to encourage a different growth habit. So, I suppose it's possible that a dwarf tree that would be 23 feet may not reach that exact beight because we've removed a central leader and opted for an open center pruning. That said, most of our deciduous trees in full sun easily reach that 10' height and need to be kept there through pruning. Good luck!
Rolling River Nursery for Pom!
Thanks for the informative video. My question is are the fruits size proportionate to the tree size or do you can big fruits from those small trees?
Tree size and fruit size are independent of each other. On a mature tree (regardless of size), you can most easily control fruit size through thinning the number of fruit. I've got a vid on fruit thinning!
Great videos, so informative. One question I have is, is it ok to plant flowering trees like gardenia and jasmine etc. Near the citrus trees?
Thanks for watching 😀 Yes you can!
Great video! Will this work on a pear or plum tree that has been grafted with a few varieties? Could cutting the tree possibly remove one or two of the different varieties?
If you have a multi-budded tree and you cut to knee high, you might accidentally remove desired types of fruit from the tree. Those trees usually have each type of fruit on them marked, so you can definitely reduce size without accidentally cutting off a branch for an entire type of fruit
Thanks for the info your shared here. What a great little orchard you've got going. I, wonder if you could point to any downsides of this approach? i.e. significantly more work in pruning to keep the trees in check or anything like that?
Hi Newpatch! I think it's more an issue of trade-offs than downsides. For the home gardener, this approach is actually a bit LESS work because the trees aren't getting too big, you don't have to drag a ladder out, less fruit to manage, etc. That being said, with smaller trees you will get less fruit than a full size tree (30ft tall instead of 8-10ft), you do make more cuts because you have access to the whole canopy. On the whole, this approach is especially well suited for the backyard grower.
@@TheBusyGardener Thanks for great feedback. Love your channel.
Going to try this with canistel, jackfruit, soursop, and sweetsop in zone 10b south Florida
Wow, that's a combo I've never come across! Will jackfruit produce on trees that small?
@@TheBusyGardener there’s some dwarf varieties, but I’m sure it still gets quite big
Hello sir like u r vedio plz tell us new variety of fruit, which we can grow cold areas.
+Being human Great news is that you can grow most deciduous (leaves fall off each year) in cold climates. You generally can’t grow subtropicals like citrus and avocado except in warmer climates like Florida and Southern California.
Do you have any photos with them in full growth and during Harvest I recently planted 16 in my front yard
Oh, how I wish that I could have seen this video before planting most of my trees.
Oh, Carol... I know that feeling. I've got things I wish I'd done very differently.
Great Video! Thanks for all of the info. What type of tag do you use on your tree at 8:22?
Hi Ernesto! I used these tags: www.amazon.com/dp/B01LP3KFWS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_GkOpCbH29AQQP
I also include a strip of flag tape so I can easily locate them when there are a lot of leaves. Info I include are the: Species - Variety, and in the top right I put the year planted, and the rootstock, if known.
I cut pop cans, press the info with a dull pencil and attach it with loose zip ties. 5 years later still there.
This is genius.
It IS! I was so grateful to have heard about this method from videos with Tom Spellman from Dave Wilson Nursery
Very inspiring. Thanks!
Question1: I live in Minnesota. I have planted 2 fruit trees for my zone (4B) yesterday Aug 24 - (a contender peach and a north star cherry) , and I would like to keep them about 5 1/2 feet tall forever (right now they are about 5 feet tall out from the nursery). I am about to make that big cut of the main central trunk at about knee high as you described - leaving a few buds / branches under which hopefully will start a "cup" shape for the trees. I am afraid to make the cut and weaken the trees enough that they won't make it through winter here - should I be worried? is that "big" cut to make the trees small hard on the tree's health and root system?
Question2: the main central branch is about 3/4 of an inch in diameter.Is cutting with a reciprocating saw ok to make a clean cut? should a "tree pruning sealer" applied on the cut?
Maybe you or one of your viewers can answer my questions.
Thank you all!
Hey Fab! Q1) Make the cut! New trees are fine to make this sort of cut without any stress. In fact, making this cut upon planting gives the tree less canopy for the roots to support as they get established! A similar cut on an established tree could kill it
Q2) The cleanest pruning cut is made using bypass pruners or loppers. Anything that creates a jagged or rough cut invites disease and is harder for a tree to heal. That said, a reciprocating saw can be used for pruning cuts but is secondary in preference to shears or loppers
Thanks I live in Minnesota and have just purchased some trees and was wondering the same thing
Great Video. Just I was looking for. I'm trying to plant fruit tress in a 30 feet by 6 feet stripe. How far apart do you plant two different spices? I want to get the maximum usage from that spaces with different varieties.
If you're wanting just a strip, I think you can still get away with planting 2-3 in a hole, 2-3 feet from trunk to trunk. The closer they are together, the more work they'll be and the less fruit you'll get from each variety, but you'll have more varieties. So it's up to you on that one.
Could you please tell me if you also cut your citrus fruit knee high when you plant them to keep them to a reachable height???
Hi Chantal! No, I didn't cut my citrus at knee high. This is primarily because citrus grow naturally as a bush/hedge. This differs from deciduous which seem to have a more upright growht habit.
Just found your channel it's great clear explanation & you really offer tremendous encouragement. I wound love to use this concept too but instead of planting the fruit trees in the ground directly I'm planting them in bottomless containers because my native soil is poor & rocky so I figure I'll give them a headstart In good rich soil plus the container will help to dwarf the tree too but would you still suggest planting similar varieties together as opposed to completely different varieties?
Wow, thanks for the uplifting words, Geriann! A few thoughts on that: 1) I am a big advocate of planting directly in the ground. A container planted tree will need more attention, and is more sensitive. 2) your soul may be better than you think! Putting a solid mulch layer on top and feeding your trees in early Feb, early April, and late June will give them everything they need. I've also got incredibly rocky soil. 3) I suppose it's possible to multiplayer in a container, but that's a really small space for all that root structure to make use of. I've got a handful of planting videos that Can help you on this journey!
@@TheBusyGardener ok i understand what you're saying about container planting but i have the bottom of my containers open to the ground so eventually they will root into the ground the earthworms & other nutrients will be accessed because by taking off the bottom of the container creates an open system similarly to directly planting in the ground plus having a good part of the rootball above the surface prevents it from getting waterlogged in our rainy season. Here in the tropics in the West Indies we only get 2 seasons a wet & a dry season almost half of the year. My soil seems to be rocky & loamy not a very good combination drainage is poor in the rainy season & as you know most plants & fruit trees dont like "wet feet".
@@TheBusyGardener yes i will be checking out more of your videos not that i have found & subscribed to your channel
I haven’t got your beautiful climate. I live in N Ireland and just bought 3 cherry. And 3 apple trees. Could I plant them like you did in an allotment?
Congrats on your trees! You can absolutely plant them using this method
Bro, can I do summer pruning to adjust the height of fruit plant or only winter pruning.
YES! The height is actually best done during summer, while winter is a great time to do more detail/thin out pruning.
As I reflected on what I saw in your video I had a question: 'at some point you're likely to tired frim this high maintenance system, what is your plan should that occur? Will you thin them, replant, or let survival of the fittest thing decide?
Hey Truck Taxi! That's a great question. 3 parts to my answer: 1) This system is less high maintenance than I make it. In other words, I'm working on things more than they need to be. The average backyard guy could get away with a lot less than I do. 2) Keeping the trees pruned smaller means a lot less work/hassle in other ways (no ladders, easier harvest, etc) so there is a bit of a tradeoff. 3) I have 5 kids. If they wanna eat the fruit, they're gonna have to learn to care for it. So that's my long term plan, lol.
m
Can you do an update on the trees that are close or show when they at their peak
You mention a fertilizer low on N here, any suggestions for what you use and how often/times of year?
What's up, Bryan! Have you checked out any of my vids on fertilizing?
If I wanted to plant with my fruit trees some Eastern Redbud and Honey locust, would I be able to dwarf them as well?
Most leafing trees can be kept to a desired height through pruning!
I have alot in a small yard, what do you use to fertilize mine growing slow 3 yrs in..
I have a few fertilization videos that you got to check out! I mainly use a 3-12-12 on trees that I don't want to get any larger, and a 15-15-15 or osmocote on trees that I want to grow and establish more vigor. I've got links to these and other items are use in the description.
I just transplanted a 5 gallon (about 4 ft i think at this point) sweet cherry and it looks like the nursery already pruned into a open center. I’m happy with the shape but I think that it probably needs to be pruned further to get the height down. Should I leave it be or am I able to bring it down some? I’ve also got an Asian pear that i transplanted in the spring and it’s more of a central leader. Id like that to be a modified central. It’s got a lot of great 360 degree branching, should I have any issues pruning the central branch now? Thank you!
A bit late to the reply, but it's ok to prune it down further, especially if it's a younger tree! PRUNE AWAY! A young tree will tolerate severe pruning much better than an established one.
Thanks for a very informative video! How far apart are the trees spaced?
Thanks for watching! Trees are spaced about 2.5 feet, trunk to trunk.
@@TheBusyGardener Wow! That’s amazing. Thanks for your reply.
Thanks for the video. So if cut the top of the tree, they won’t grow too tall? I got trees from local nursery, the top already been cut, but I prefer it grow taller, is that impossible to grow taller? Thanks
If you cut the trees, then you are changing the shape more than the eventual size. So if you want to keep your trees short, cutting the top off is a good start toward keeping them short through pruning. If the top is already been cut, it is possible to train their branches to grow in an upward fashion if needed. Pruning is the biggest thing you are going to do to influence the size of your tree
I have a some peach trees I want to do this with. Have you ever incorporated the Elen White method with high density planting? If so, could you refer me to your video or a link you may know of with these two methods combined? Thank you and I do enjoy your channel.
Thanks Jude! I haven't used Ellen White's method, largely because manually digging out space in our extremely rocky soil sounds terrible 😂
@@TheBusyGardener oh I see and understand that would be quite labor intensive. I believe I will be moving forward with the EGW method and combining High Density Planting. We have heavy clay here in GA so I'll be renting an auger. Thank you for the reply and best wishes from my family to yours.
I have 1 pear tree that's 7 year's old I feed it watered down urine once a week it produced over 100 fruits last year.
Sounds gross, but it IS fertilizer. Too much urine though, and it'll start sprouting "pees". lol
@@TheBusyGardener I stop feeding them a month before harvest they taste really nice better than brought pears.
@@TheBusyGardener hahahahaaaaaa
People do that with lemon trees to get good fruits. Don't see anything wrong with that.
Can Espalier work with high density planting of fruit trees ?
Yup! This is a common method being used in commercial orchards these days. Look up high density apple orchards and you'll see lots of examples
How far away does one grouping need to be from another grouping? And from fences and sidewalks?
if your apples are successive ripening diff times how do they pollinate each other apples are not self pollinating?
What is the ideal distance between trees planted in one hole and between two such high density holes ?
It's all a set of trade offs more than an ideal distance. If you want fruit production, more space gives a greater fruiting canopy. If you want to conserve space, you can plant trees closer together at the expense of some fruiting.
Ilove your methods and concepts! i just bought my first home with 30 mature fruit trees but most are WAY too tall to reach the friut. Can you prune older mature trees and not hurt the trees? i'd like to restructure some of them to lower the fruit access but dont want to hurt the mature tree growth and fruiting. i'm nearby in Riverside. hit 120 degrees last summer.
JuicingGardener (Sheryl Mann) hi Sheryl! Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. A couple questions: 1) How old are the trees? 2) How tall are they?
In short, you’d need to make whatever height reductions over 3 seasons, which will severely affect and limit your fruiting for the next few years. If your trees are older, or if you don’t want to sacrifice that many years of fruit with uncertain results, you may consider starting over with new trees. That might sound drastic, but you’ll have fruit sooner, and you’ll be able to develop a canopy at your desired height right away. If you decide to go keep your mature trees, here is an excellent resource from Dave Wilson Nursery: www.davewilson.com/home-gardens/growing-fruits-and-nuts/cultural-practices/taming-big-old-tree
@@TheBusyGardener super valuable info thanks! Some are easily 25+ feet tall. our avo tree is 60+ feet tall. we have room to add more trees and keep them shorter, reachable. our big old ones still fruit well. i like your idea of taking 3 years to modify them slowly to give them breathing room.
oh we just bought the 1979 house. it was built on orange groves so have no idea age, but they COULD be 50+ years old. i'm too new at fruit trees to determine their age
So, are your current trees all Citrus and avocado? If so, height is truly not as big a deal, as you can pick much of the fruit with a fruit picking basket (they aren't as delicate as peaches, for example). Citrus puts most of the fruit in the bottom 2/3 of the tree, so you won't sacrifice too much fruit by bringing the canopy down a few feet. You're blessed to have the option to keep trees and add others. Have anything in mind you're considering adding?
I just subbed your channel, and am looking forward to seeing more of your adventure. Quite a different climate experience out here than in the Midwest!
:)
Did you verify any sewer lines or pipes before planting?
Hey Shayna! I didn't verify anything before we planted (BIG NO-NO!). I figured everything to our house was coming in from the street, with nothing coming in from the rear. Turns out we came upon a cable/internet/phone connection coming from the bridle trail in the rear of the lot. Thankfully we didn't damage it and marked off where we saw it headed and avoided digging there. Moral of the story: always call 8-1-1 to for the approximate location of any utilities on your property. :)
I just purchased a few fruit trees. My 2 Asian pears are the tallest but I’m nervous about cutting them down before they have established strong roots. What do you suggest? They’re still in their original pot because I need the roots to grow.
When you reduce the canopy size, you reduce the amount of foliage the roots need to support. It's a good idea to cut back foliage on most transplants!
Plant as much tree u want togethor and rest of the work will nature do ..
i have 1000 trees in one acre