I love your Channel because you test shit to the extreme, not fit and finish, I understand what your getting at! I know you will put these parts to the test and one point! Keep on keepin on
Ok so I'm trying to get my TRX4 ready for the gauntlet in September up in Michigan.....I got the bronco not the sport and I wanted to get a comp chassis and still use all my stock electronics....but it gonna be hard from what I can tell....so I was thinking about using the shock towers like you got and the bow house skid and just keep my stock chassis.....but I don't know was wondering if I could use all my stock stuff on like say a scattergun v2 or something....idk
Ordered the shock mounts In the description hope they’re just as good as the ones in the video they don’t say treal but look good and front and rear for $20
Did you change the wheelbase to match the bronco body? And did you cut off some of the chassis as well? Trying to understand how you got the bronco to fit this 12.3 wheelbase chassis. Thx man.
I'm usually pretty happy with Bowhouse RC but my tranny skid bolts didn't line-up in the front links and the threads stripped out really easy. I was disappointed. Trust me...I installed it correctly. Its been a very long time since I stripped something. Now the part is just sitting there...I wasted my money.
Have you contacted Bowhouse about the issue? I would have to think they’d warranty it out with the misalignment issue, mine weren’t perfect but I got them to work.
One of the first things I bought after a decent set of hex drivers was an M3 recoil kit. I highly recommend that for anybody who does much wrenching on a 1:10 crawler. I also have a selection of brass captive nuts for plastic, the kind that you install with a soldering iron. Not sure how well they would work with glass reinforced plastics though.
awhile? Is a good esc to run that won't break the bank but will do a really good job. And what size of Schock do you mostly run 90mm 110mm or so on and do you have any stickers to put on my fide
I’m going to have to get some stickers made, been asked about them more than usual lately. Best esc for a brushed motor is the Holmes brxl but at $110 it’s expensive, the Hobbywing 1080 at about $40 is much more widely used. I can get you links to them if you would like. As far as shocks go I like to stay around the 90mm point for a scaler like this.
I've never felt the need for them but they do help the vehicle turn tighter and in some cases the front overdrive will help pull the rear over stuff. I have read in many places that since the front is usually heavier it will pull the rear so on sidehills it may can tires to slide, when they slide they will slide down and can cause your vehicle to lose its line. If I ever do try the over/under thing I'll just put underdrive gears in the back.
I haven’t had very good luck with the Heyok controllers, in fact as it sits now the controller I put in is out and I’m using another Hobbywing 1060 esc. You should see that in the next video on this.
I just haven’t had that kind of luck with his stuff, it’s been years since I even tried anything from him. I’d love to get smaller but it’s gotta be good to 3S for my builds and at or close to the $20 mark
The hitch servo is also on the left side of the chassis? yikes.. That doesn't help the un-even front weight balance of the TRX-4 that weight down the front left wheel too much. That servo should have been mounted on the right side of the chassis, For trailing use is not really that bad but for COMP? having un-even front weight balance side to side is a no-no.
@@ExocagedRC The motor is not aligned with the center of the chassis, It sits naturally on the left front side that is why that specific shock requires more preload. What ever that servo weights its only adding to the natural bias of the TRX-4. Sky RC sells a pretty neat 4 wheel weight scale tool that could help you find a neutral point side to side. Perfect weight distribution can help you in comp, Probably overkill I know but my OCD would not let me Comp like that.
I would like to get a scale like that as I build a lot of stuff. In the end a slight offset of a motor or imbalance stately if ever affects a truck like this. Axial had theirs ( still do ) way off to the side. It won’t be a problem for this truck.
No idea how I missed this series, I've definitely been watching you that long... Brilliant series!!!!
I love your Channel because you test shit to the extreme, not fit and finish, I understand what your getting at! I know you will put these parts to the test and one point! Keep on keepin on
soon this thing will see the dirt or a rock or something
Very nice part install my friend and good advice, it give me the taste for build a third TRX-4 :)
Very interesting video.👍
As always. Very informative. Great vid bro! Right On!
Sooo much beautifull ! I can't wait the next vid !
should be finishing up the recording tomorrow and as best I can tell it will turn the tires....FINALLY!! LOL
Nice brother. It’s coming along so pro!
Looks great
Pretty Parts to rebuild and upgrade with.. Great Video My Friend ✌️😎👍 HFLPRCing
Awesome brother
Those links just needed some rubber band control to keep them in line for a third hand assist
Ok so I'm trying to get my TRX4 ready for the gauntlet in September up in Michigan.....I got the bronco not the sport and I wanted to get a comp chassis and still use all my stock electronics....but it gonna be hard from what I can tell....so I was thinking about using the shock towers like you got and the bow house skid and just keep my stock chassis.....but I don't know was wondering if I could use all my stock stuff on like say a scattergun v2 or something....idk
Are you using the stock ring gear on the differentials or are you using under-drive or overdrive ?
This one ended up with OD front gears and stock rear gears.
Ordered the shock mounts In the description hope they’re just as good as the ones in the video they don’t say treal but look good and front and rear for $20
Did you change the wheelbase to match the bronco body? And did you cut off some of the chassis as well? Trying to understand how you got the bronco to fit this 12.3 wheelbase chassis. Thx man.
I'm usually pretty happy with Bowhouse RC but my tranny skid bolts didn't line-up in the front links and the threads stripped out really easy. I was disappointed.
Trust me...I installed it correctly.
Its been a very long time since I stripped something. Now the part is just sitting there...I wasted my money.
Have you contacted Bowhouse about the issue? I would have to think they’d warranty it out with the misalignment issue, mine weren’t perfect but I got them to work.
@@ExocagedRC I'll do that.
One of the first things I bought after a decent set of hex drivers was an M3 recoil kit. I highly recommend that for anybody who does much wrenching on a 1:10 crawler. I also have a selection of brass captive nuts for plastic, the kind that you install with a soldering iron. Not sure how well they would work with glass reinforced plastics though.
awhile? Is a good esc to run that won't break the bank but will do a really good job. And what size of Schock do you mostly run 90mm 110mm or so on and do you have any stickers to put on my fide
I’m going to have to get some stickers made, been asked about them more than usual lately. Best esc for a brushed motor is the Holmes brxl but at $110 it’s expensive, the Hobbywing 1080 at about $40 is much more widely used. I can get you links to them if you would like. As far as shocks go I like to stay around the 90mm point for a scaler like this.
Quite a few guys here are running under and overdrive in the diffs what are your thoughts?
I've never felt the need for them but they do help the vehicle turn tighter and in some cases the front overdrive will help pull the rear over stuff. I have read in many places that since the front is usually heavier it will pull the rear so on sidehills it may can tires to slide, when they slide they will slide down and can cause your vehicle to lose its line. If I ever do try the over/under thing I'll just put underdrive gears in the back.
@@ExocagedRC I will let ya know if they help enough to make them worth the effort
Why couldn't you just remove the control board on the servo and Dremel or take off the "stop" , install a HeyOK Winch Controler and JST plug?
I haven’t had very good luck with the Heyok controllers, in fact as it sits now the controller I put in is out and I’m using another Hobbywing 1060 esc. You should see that in the next video on this.
@@ExocagedRC I've used Al Jackson's(HeyOK)for several years along with KMS Winch's.
They've been great.
I just haven’t had that kind of luck with his stuff, it’s been years since I even tried anything from him. I’d love to get smaller but it’s gotta be good to 3S for my builds and at or close to the $20 mark
@@ExocagedRC HeyOK goes up and down in price depending on what you need but all my winch controllers from Al are good for 4s.
That would be awsome if you could get me some links and I thank you so much
hobbywing 1080 esc rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FHobbywing-QuicRun-1080-Waterproof-Brushed-80A-ESC-Program-Card-For-Crawler%2F122655006279%3Fepid%3D21017259945%26hash%3Ditem1c8ecede47%3Ag%3ADnIAAOSwDRlZlreU&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
Holmes BRXL rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FHolmes-Hobbies-TorqueMaster-BR-XL-Brushed-Crawler-ESC-Speed-Control%2F392173471441%3Fhash%3Ditem5b4f5c46d1%3Ag%3AS7QAAOSwq4Vb7KZu&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
The hitch servo is also on the left side of the chassis? yikes.. That doesn't help the un-even front weight balance of the TRX-4 that weight down the front left wheel too much. That servo should have been mounted on the right side of the chassis, For trailing use is not really that bad but for COMP? having un-even front weight balance side to side is a no-no.
these servos weigh next to nothing, they don't cause the issues you are describing, not to mention there is stuff on the other side too.
@@ExocagedRC The motor is not aligned with the center of the chassis, It sits naturally on the left front side that is why that specific shock requires more preload. What ever that servo weights its only adding to the natural bias of the TRX-4.
Sky RC sells a pretty neat 4 wheel weight scale tool that could help you find a neutral point side to side. Perfect weight distribution can help you in comp, Probably overkill I know but my OCD would not let me Comp like that.
I would like to get a scale like that as I build a lot of stuff. In the end a slight offset of a motor or imbalance stately if ever affects a truck like this. Axial had theirs ( still do ) way off to the side. It won’t be a problem for this truck.
@@ExocagedRC ok.