Thank you for watching this video! If you are already shooting soccer (football), comment below if you have different techniques you like to use. Also, if you’ve got camera settings you prefer, include those below along with why you chose those settings. There’s more than one way to skin a cat! Here are all my settings I mentioned in the video, plus some bonus settings I didn’t mention: * Image quality - RAW or JPEG, depending on your preference. (I prefer JPEG at night to take advantage of the camera’s noise and flicker reduction) * Image size - Large * ISO Sensitivity - I set it to the lowest native ISO, unless I want a specific, higher number in a full manual mode * Auto ISO - On * Maximum ISO Sensitivity - Whatever level you believe your camera can still produce useable photos. Will vary from camera to camera and your own level of comfort * White balance - Auto (usually) * Picture control - Standard, with a level of 6 on sharpness * Color space - sRGB * Active D-Lighting (Nikon only) - High * High ISO NR - Depends on the camera, I use “high” on my D850. “Standard” or “normal” seems to work well in other cameras Bonus settings not mentioned in the video: * Flicker reduction - On (This is important for nighttime sports!) * Autofocus - Continuous, release priority * Focus points - I prefer “group” or “9” for most situations. Some will argue for “single point”, but I feel like I miss shots that way as the subject is not always in the exact middle of the frame * Metering - Matrix * Exposure compensation - None during the day unless I’ve got a strong backlight and I have to lighten some shadows. At night or under gym or stadium lights, I like +0.3 to +0.7 (better to be somewhat overexposed in low light, high ISO situations than underexposed. Noise LOVES the shadows.) * Shutter - manually set to at least 1/1000 (1/800 if the light is truly horrible). During a bright, sunny day I’ll be up around 1/3200 or higher. * Aperture - generally, manually set as wide as the lens will go to help blur out the background * Vibration reduction on the lens - generally, turned off. (You’re already shooting at high shutter speeds, so why do you need VR/IS? Some people claim it slows frame rate, but I can’t confirm)
Your videos are spot on. I love that youre a nikon shooter as well, as thats what I shoot with. I have two D4's and a D4S, Thanks for making these incredibly short but jammed packed videos!!!
I wish I had found this video earlier. I started following my daughter’s team and now am covering all the teams of her club, and am happy that I could figure out most of your tips on my own, but it took me a long time. Gear-wise, I work with a D500 with a Sigma 70-200 f2.8 and a D850 with a 150-600 f5.6/6.3. I started experimenting with putting a remote-controlled third camera behind the net opposite to me and cover it with a wide angle, but have not quite got the shots I am looking for just yet. My daughter plays mainly as a goalkeeper, so I started naturally placing myself close to the corner flag on the right side, but I prefer staying on the sideline rather than the back line, so that I get a better angle of the action in the box and any saves. I struggled a bit with finding the right exposure settings. Initially, I started with aperture priority set at minimum f-stop and an ISO around 800 to 1600 being afraid of noise, but in lower light my shutter speed started being too low and I had to many losses in sharpness. Discovering auto-ISO and moving to full manual mode presetting my exposure for differently lit areas on the field was a huge improvement. One topic that you did not touch at all in this video is how you approach focusing - I would love to see how you set your D850. I am hearing lots of different school of thought, from single point AF-C in the middle of the frame, to full auto detection to 3D. What do you usually do, especially for youth games, where bunch-balling is not rare and you may have even a dozen player within a few feet of the ball? I usually set mine to single point focus in the center, maybe one click lower than the center if I want to focus on the ball, and if the lighting allows it, I close the aperture to f8 or f11 to get more depth of field and more player in the bunch in focus. Is there a better way?
Hey Alessandro, I specifically talk about this subject in a different video (czcams.com/video/ushhPsAQrQw/video.html), but for field sports, I normally set my Nikon cameras on D-9. I don't like single point because you have to be very exact where you place it, and that's difficult when the subjects are moving in out or crowds. BTW, in portrait, I nudge the focus points up around the chest area instead of in the center.
I really liked this video, I have photographed soccer for 30 years and I agree with the positions on the field, but there is one important thing to take into account: the direction of the light.
Thank you so much for this video! Because of covid, our official high school sports photographer isn't working this year. I volunteered to do it and am now going to all the sports, not just my kids', to photograph the games. I also use the Nikon d850 / 70-200mm and had most of these settings but not all, so that was helpful. I've never photographed soccer, and first game is this week. I am looking forward to it (and now know where to start and end up on the field!). Thanks again!
Hey Jessica, good luck! That 200mm is a little short, so you're going to have to wait for them to get close to those sidelines. You might want to capture warmups too - then you can get a lot closer.
Jack, I'm glad that I found your videos while I was look at other "How to shoot" videos. You have great information and I like how although you shoot in "M" mode you use certain Auto settings. I shoot my daughter's soccer games that are mostly in the day time without any majors issues. On the other hand I also shoot my son's high school football games which are at night in poorly lit school stadiums. I shoot with a Canon EOS D7 with a 70-200 2.8 on "M" mode with my ISO varying depending on how dark or better lit the side of the field I'm on is. My shutter speed varying from 640-6400 the Aperture is 2.8 and I get pretty good results. I like the tips that you give using the Auto ISO and the group focusing points, I mostly use the single point in the center and sometimes get the player I want slightly out of focus as you mentioned. I will try your settings this week at the high school football game. Thank you for the great tips.
So glad I found your videos! I struggled with using manual focus versus auto focus for my kids sports because the camera would always seem to pick the wrong focal point during the best action. My ignorance about my equipment definitely frustrated me. I've shot crime scenes for 20+ years where nothing moves (hopefully)....that's been too easy!
Hi Jack. Yes, there are a lot of discussions about RAW and JPEG. In my opinion you should always use RAW if you have the time to process the pictures. If you want to crop them anyway and maybe correct the horizon and want to improve the color and so on, then RAW is perfect. If you work as a professional photographer for an agency and need to deliver the pictures during the game, then you work with JPEG.
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree! In a couple other videos under the playlist "camera settings" I go into more detail as to why I shoot JPG for sports, especially low light sports, as opposed to RAW. My results are generally better, especially when it comes to noise reduction and graininess.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Just funny to hear both auto white-balance and shoot JPEG for me..specially if you say I'll fix it in post if necessary. I guess I've just been to disappointed in the past trying to fix white balance on JPEG, thanks for the content!
Since I made that video a year ago, new software has come out for RAW images that surpasses the performance of in-camera noise reduction and Jpegs. I’ve made a couple videos since then where I talk about products like Topaz Denoise and DxO Raw2 and good they are with RAW images.
good info. I've been contemplating creating a similar video. I've shot youth (and school) soccer since my daughter started at age 5 (she's 16 now). so hundreds and hundreds of matches (her matches and other teams from the club(s)).. and countless tournaments. I also shoot mostly Auto ISO with a manually set Av and Tv. The 70-200mm lens option especially works great if you spend most of the game at the endline of the offensive zone for the more dominate team (action coming right at you)... sometimes 70mm is a bit much, so i shuffle backwards to expand my zone to fit more in the frame (assuming there is room). Two points to add or consider 1) framing.. and trying to include the Ball.. and capture the eyes (if possible). 2) get low/kneel when shooting. People tend to develop the own "style".. for me.. i like capturing Air.. jump headers, ball bouncing of a break-away dash, girls feet just off the ground, etc Your video provides a lot of good useful information and will undoubtedly help a lot of Parent-photogs capture better images (and keepsakes). I hope you get a lot of views.. checked out your IG and MaxP work.. excellent work..
Thank you, Lawayne! Yes, there's tons you can talk about in a video, but this thing would run an hour! I plan on doing future videos related specifically to shooting under low light/high ISO, what makes for a good sports photo, general techniques for field sports (kneeling), etc.
Hehe "offensive zone, endline" in all my days I've never heard it called these terms the endline is called the Goal Line, to my knowledge the offensive zone has no name. It's just were the defence plays. For all Sports you must have face's in the shot, shooting up makes the players look bigger, take a low seat much better than kneeling on wet grass.
@@paultrunfull3324 fine.. for people who like to "correct" others.. let's call it the Final Third.. you know.. the space just outside the penalty area of the goal itself (being attacked) where the attacking action is taking place thus providing "face-on" photography opportunities of the attacking team.. Endline is an actual term: Endline: Also called "Goal Line"; the line, which runs along its width directly in front of the goal, that defines the end of the playing field and which the ball must cross in order to score a goal. Nowhere did I say/mention that the face is not important/required.. When kneeling (for youth sports) that puts my camera at/about chest high on the player giving a very slight upward focal direction that yes.. does give emphasis to their size
Jack, another great video! I’ve got a 70-200mm, 300mm, and 400mm, all f/2.8. Which do you think is best for soccer starting in the middle. I would imagine the 70-200mm and 400mm might be perfect when on the end line. I also have full frame and crop bodies, so lots of options. Thanks!
It sounds like you have a nice set up. It also sounds like you have multiple bodies. If so, I'd put the 70-200 on one and the 400 on another and start in the middle. Switch back and forth between bodies depending on how close the action gets to you. Have fun!
What adjustments do you make for shadows? I am just starting out and the field had many tall buildings nearby, so when the sun dropped past the buildings, the field got shady with shadows?
Yes, those golden hour sunsets are pretty - but a pain. If the subject is in shadow but the background is bright, I usually add a stop or more of compensation to my auto ISO. I usually have to take few tries to get it dialed in
Jack, I have a question for you, I own the 120-300 sigma 2.8, rather than spend 1300 on the nikon nikon 200-500 5.6, would you recommend the 1.7 converter on the 120-300, that will give me a reach of 510mm at F4.8 so I get about an extra 3rd stop of light as well. I know there are alot of bad reviews that the 2.o converter hurts image quality but the 1.7 and 1.4 work really well. Thanks again for the great videos.
Well, having never used those combinations, it's hard for me to say. And, I haven't seen those reviews. Maybe I'm old school, but the thought of adding converters - especially the longer one - onto a zoom makes me a bit nervous. If I were you, I'd say try or rent (if you can) some of those converters and see for yourself if the image is too degraded. If you can't rent, and it was me, I'd go to the low side (1.4) and see how that worked.
You ever play with remotes? I have an old d2x im thinking of setting up kinda wide and fixed as a second shooter but fear it may be low roi unless shooting practices or goal keepers specifically? Maybe at the 18 back towards goal or behind the goal?
I always shoot manually in jpeg + auto iso. I shoot football and rugby with my old but still great cameras, nikon D4s + nikon D3s + nikon 70-200mm f2.8 + nikon 300mm f2.8 and the 200-500mm f5.6. if you click on minimum shutter speed auto, you still have a choice between slower and faster. which do you choose. or in the middle.
I went out today to shoot my Nikon 200-500 for the first time...not impressed, my shots are not sharp when you zoom in to see the picture. Im going to make some adjustments based off your advise from this video, thanks.
I am planning on using 18-55mm lens, the stock option. Is that ok? My son plays 7v7 matches and the field is not so big. Would you consider that to be an ok starting point or do u need to upgrade the lens? I am also looking to get that “bokeh” effect, will this lens be ok?
I'll be honest, you're going to be very limited in the photos you get, as most of the play will be farther than that 55mm can adequately capture. They'd literally have to be right next to the sidelines, right in front of you. You need to be looking at something at least 300mm to get solid action photos without an inordinate amount of cropping. As far as "bokeh", the longer the lens (200mm or longer), and the wider the aperture, the better your "bokeh".
@@bahipromedi6946 That's a good starting lens and I would agree to look at used lenses. There are some good deals out there from reputable companies. Good luck.
Hey Mark, I'll be honest, 85mm is pretty short for field sports. The players would have to be right next to you on the sidelines to get some shots with that focal length. 200mm is really the starting point for field sports, with 300mm better and 400 and above better yet. Having said that, 85mm is a good length for indoor sports, like basketball, assuming you are sitting on the baseline of the court.
@@mmtv4608 That's a 42 megapixel camera, so you could easily get away with using a crop mode and getting some more perceived reach with the 70-200. I say "perceived" because you'd get the same effect by shooting full-frame and cropping significantly.
Thank you for watching this video! If you are already shooting soccer (football), comment below if you have different techniques you like to use. Also, if you’ve got camera settings you prefer, include those below along with why you chose those settings. There’s more than one way to skin a cat!
Here are all my settings I mentioned in the video, plus some bonus settings I didn’t mention:
* Image quality - RAW or JPEG, depending on your preference. (I prefer JPEG at night to take advantage of the camera’s noise and flicker reduction)
* Image size - Large
* ISO Sensitivity - I set it to the lowest native ISO, unless I want a specific, higher number in a full manual mode
* Auto ISO - On
* Maximum ISO Sensitivity - Whatever level you believe your camera can still produce useable photos. Will vary from camera to camera and your own level of comfort
* White balance - Auto (usually)
* Picture control - Standard, with a level of 6 on sharpness
* Color space - sRGB
* Active D-Lighting (Nikon only) - High
* High ISO NR - Depends on the camera, I use “high” on my D850. “Standard” or “normal” seems to work well in other cameras
Bonus settings not mentioned in the video:
* Flicker reduction - On (This is important for nighttime sports!)
* Autofocus - Continuous, release priority
* Focus points - I prefer “group” or “9” for most situations. Some will argue for “single point”, but I feel like I miss shots that way as the subject is not always in the exact middle of the frame
* Metering - Matrix
* Exposure compensation - None during the day unless I’ve got a strong backlight and I have to lighten some shadows. At night or under gym or stadium lights, I like +0.3 to +0.7 (better to be somewhat overexposed in low light, high ISO situations than underexposed. Noise LOVES the shadows.)
* Shutter - manually set to at least 1/1000 (1/800 if the light is truly horrible). During a bright, sunny day I’ll be up around 1/3200 or higher.
* Aperture - generally, manually set as wide as the lens will go to help blur out the background
* Vibration reduction on the lens - generally, turned off. (You’re already shooting at high shutter speeds, so why do you need VR/IS? Some people claim it slows frame rate, but I can’t confirm)
Your videos are spot on. I love that youre a nikon shooter as well, as thats what I shoot with. I have two D4's and a D4S, Thanks for making these incredibly short but jammed packed videos!!!
Thank you, sir!
I wish I had found this video earlier. I started following my daughter’s team and now am covering all the teams of her club, and am happy that I could figure out most of your tips on my own, but it took me a long time. Gear-wise, I work with a D500 with a Sigma 70-200 f2.8 and a D850 with a 150-600 f5.6/6.3. I started experimenting with putting a remote-controlled third camera behind the net opposite to me and cover it with a wide angle, but have not quite got the shots I am looking for just yet. My daughter plays mainly as a goalkeeper, so I started naturally placing myself close to the corner flag on the right side, but I prefer staying on the sideline rather than the back line, so that I get a better angle of the action in the box and any saves.
I struggled a bit with finding the right exposure settings. Initially, I started with aperture priority set at minimum f-stop and an ISO around 800 to 1600 being afraid of noise, but in lower light my shutter speed started being too low and I had to many losses in sharpness. Discovering auto-ISO and moving to full manual mode presetting my exposure for differently lit areas on the field was a huge improvement.
One topic that you did not touch at all in this video is how you approach focusing - I would love to see how you set your D850. I am hearing lots of different school of thought, from single point AF-C in the middle of the frame, to full auto detection to 3D. What do you usually do, especially for youth games, where bunch-balling is not rare and you may have even a dozen player within a few feet of the ball?
I usually set mine to single point focus in the center, maybe one click lower than the center if I want to focus on the ball, and if the lighting allows it, I close the aperture to f8 or f11 to get more depth of field and more player in the bunch in focus. Is there a better way?
Hey Alessandro, I specifically talk about this subject in a different video (czcams.com/video/ushhPsAQrQw/video.html), but for field sports, I normally set my Nikon cameras on D-9. I don't like single point because you have to be very exact where you place it, and that's difficult when the subjects are moving in out or crowds. BTW, in portrait, I nudge the focus points up around the chest area instead of in the center.
I really liked this video, I have photographed soccer for 30 years and I agree with the positions on the field, but there is one important thing to take into account: the direction of the light.
True
Thank you so much for this video! Because of covid, our official high school sports photographer isn't working this year. I volunteered to do it and am now going to all the sports, not just my kids', to photograph the games. I also use the Nikon d850 / 70-200mm and had most of these settings but not all, so that was helpful. I've never photographed soccer, and first game is this week. I am looking forward to it (and now know where to start and end up on the field!). Thanks again!
Hey Jessica, good luck! That 200mm is a little short, so you're going to have to wait for them to get close to those sidelines. You might want to capture warmups too - then you can get a lot closer.
Jack, I'm glad that I found your videos while I was look at other "How to shoot" videos. You have great information and I like how although you shoot in "M" mode you use certain Auto settings. I shoot my daughter's soccer games that are mostly in the day time without any majors issues. On the other hand I also shoot my son's high school football games which are at night in poorly lit school stadiums. I shoot with a Canon EOS D7 with a 70-200 2.8 on "M" mode with my ISO varying depending on how dark or better lit the side of the field I'm on is. My shutter speed varying from 640-6400 the Aperture is 2.8 and I get pretty good results. I like the tips that you give using the Auto ISO and the group focusing points, I mostly use the single point in the center and sometimes get the player I want slightly out of focus as you mentioned. I will try your settings this week at the high school football game. Thank you for the great tips.
Thanks for watching!
So glad I found your videos! I struggled with using manual focus versus auto focus for my kids sports because the camera would always seem to pick the wrong focal point during the best action. My ignorance about my equipment definitely frustrated me. I've shot crime scenes for 20+ years where nothing moves (hopefully)....that's been too easy!
Appreciate you a lot! Like the non-dogmatic approach and positivity.
I appreciate that!
Hi Jack. Yes, there are a lot of discussions about RAW and JPEG. In my opinion you should always use RAW if you have the time to process the pictures. If you want to crop them anyway and maybe correct the horizon and want to improve the color and so on, then RAW is perfect. If you work as a professional photographer for an agency and need to deliver the pictures during the game, then you work with JPEG.
I guess we'll have to agree to disagree! In a couple other videos under the playlist "camera settings" I go into more detail as to why I shoot JPG for sports, especially low light sports, as opposed to RAW. My results are generally better, especially when it comes to noise reduction and graininess.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Just funny to hear both auto white-balance and shoot JPEG for me..specially if you say I'll fix it in post if necessary. I guess I've just been to disappointed in the past trying to fix white balance on JPEG, thanks for the content!
Since I made that video a year ago, new software has come out for RAW images that surpasses the performance of in-camera noise reduction and Jpegs. I’ve made a couple videos since then where I talk about products like Topaz Denoise and DxO Raw2 and good they are with RAW images.
good info. I've been contemplating creating a similar video. I've shot youth (and school) soccer since my daughter started at age 5 (she's 16 now). so hundreds and hundreds of matches (her matches and other teams from the club(s)).. and countless tournaments. I also shoot mostly Auto ISO with a manually set Av and Tv. The 70-200mm lens option especially works great if you spend most of the game at the endline of the offensive zone for the more dominate team (action coming right at you)... sometimes 70mm is a bit much, so i shuffle backwards to expand my zone to fit more in the frame (assuming there is room). Two points to add or consider 1) framing.. and trying to include the Ball.. and capture the eyes (if possible). 2) get low/kneel when shooting. People tend to develop the own "style".. for me.. i like capturing Air.. jump headers, ball bouncing of a break-away dash, girls feet just off the ground, etc Your video provides a lot of good useful information and will undoubtedly help a lot of Parent-photogs capture better images (and keepsakes). I hope you get a lot of views.. checked out your IG and MaxP work.. excellent work..
Thank you, Lawayne! Yes, there's tons you can talk about in a video, but this thing would run an hour! I plan on doing future videos related specifically to shooting under low light/high ISO, what makes for a good sports photo, general techniques for field sports (kneeling), etc.
Hehe "offensive zone, endline" in all my days I've never heard it called these terms the endline is called the Goal Line, to my knowledge the offensive zone has no name. It's just were the defence plays. For all Sports you must have face's in the shot, shooting up makes the players look bigger, take a low seat much better than kneeling on wet grass.
@@paultrunfull3324 End line, goal line - same thing. www.soccerhelp.com/images/Field_Diagram.gif
@@paultrunfull3324 fine.. for people who like to "correct" others.. let's call it the Final Third.. you know.. the space just outside the penalty area of the goal itself (being attacked) where the attacking action is taking place thus providing "face-on" photography opportunities of the attacking team.. Endline is an actual term: Endline: Also called "Goal Line"; the line, which runs along its width directly in front of the goal, that defines the end of the playing field and which the ball must cross in order to score a goal. Nowhere did I say/mention that the face is not important/required.. When kneeling (for youth sports) that puts my camera at/about chest high on the player giving a very slight upward focal direction that yes.. does give emphasis to their size
Jack, another great video! I’ve got a 70-200mm, 300mm, and 400mm, all f/2.8. Which do you think is best for soccer starting in the middle. I would imagine the 70-200mm and 400mm might be perfect when on the end line. I also have full frame and crop bodies, so lots of options. Thanks!
It sounds like you have a nice set up. It also sounds like you have multiple bodies. If so, I'd put the 70-200 on one and the 400 on another and start in the middle. Switch back and forth between bodies depending on how close the action gets to you. Have fun!
What adjustments do you make for shadows? I am just starting out and the field had many tall buildings nearby, so when the sun dropped past the buildings, the field got shady with shadows?
Yes, those golden hour sunsets are pretty - but a pain. If the subject is in shadow but the background is bright, I usually add a stop or more of compensation to my auto ISO. I usually have to take few tries to get it dialed in
well done, excellant video.
Thank you!
Thank for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
@@JackBeasleyMedia I’d like sports photo, want to learn frrom You.
Keep watching!
Jack, I have a question for you, I own the 120-300 sigma 2.8, rather than spend 1300 on the nikon nikon 200-500 5.6, would you recommend the 1.7 converter on the 120-300, that will give me a reach of 510mm at F4.8 so I get about an extra 3rd stop of light as well. I know there are alot of bad reviews that the 2.o converter hurts image quality but the 1.7 and 1.4 work really well. Thanks again for the great videos.
Well, having never used those combinations, it's hard for me to say. And, I haven't seen those reviews. Maybe I'm old school, but the thought of adding converters - especially the longer one - onto a zoom makes me a bit nervous. If I were you, I'd say try or rent (if you can) some of those converters and see for yourself if the image is too degraded. If you can't rent, and it was me, I'd go to the low side (1.4) and see how that worked.
You ever play with remotes? I have an old d2x im thinking of setting up kinda wide and fixed as a second shooter but fear it may be low roi unless shooting practices or goal keepers specifically? Maybe at the 18 back towards goal or behind the goal?
I have not, but would like to. I need a third body!
I always shoot manually in jpeg + auto iso. I shoot football and rugby with my old but still great cameras, nikon D4s + nikon D3s + nikon 70-200mm f2.8 + nikon 300mm f2.8 and the 200-500mm f5.6. if you click on minimum shutter speed auto, you still have a choice between slower and faster. which do you choose. or in the middle.
If I use auto shutter (which is rare) I give it a minimum setting I'm willing to go.
I went out today to shoot my Nikon 200-500 for the first time...not impressed, my shots are not sharp when you zoom in to see the picture. Im going to make some adjustments based off your advise from this video, thanks.
I use Topaz Denoise and it sharpens them up, but yes, it’s not a 400/2.8 prime.
I am planning on using 18-55mm lens, the stock option. Is that ok? My son plays 7v7 matches and the field is not so big. Would you consider that to be an ok starting point or do u need to upgrade the lens? I am also looking to get that “bokeh” effect, will this lens be ok?
I'll be honest, you're going to be very limited in the photos you get, as most of the play will be farther than that 55mm can adequately capture. They'd literally have to be right next to the sidelines, right in front of you. You need to be looking at something at least 300mm to get solid action photos without an inordinate amount of cropping. As far as "bokeh", the longer the lens (200mm or longer), and the wider the aperture, the better your "bokeh".
@@JackBeasleyMedia thanks for the info! I will use this date going forward 👍🏽
What model: the 300mm f/2.8 ED-IF II AF-S VR-II or an earlier model ?
The model I’m using is an older model - mid 90s. I’m hoping to pick up a used 400/2.8 sometime this summer.
I have nikon D5300
I need longer lens , but its too expensive here 😞
Thanks master 👌🙏
Look at used lenses!
@@JackBeasleyMedia also expensive for me ☹
What lens are you shooting with?
@@sportsphototv sometimes trying with 55_300 , its normal one
@@bahipromedi6946 That's a good starting lens and I would agree to look at used lenses. There are some good deals out there from reputable companies. Good luck.
Hello can i used 85mm for starting ..can you recomend it?
Hey Mark, I'll be honest, 85mm is pretty short for field sports. The players would have to be right next to you on the sidelines to get some shots with that focal length. 200mm is really the starting point for field sports, with 300mm better and 400 and above better yet. Having said that, 85mm is a good length for indoor sports, like basketball, assuming you are sitting on the baseline of the court.
@@JackBeasleyMedia i used a7riii if ever i used 70-200 f4 ...which settings better a crop mode or full frame in a7riii..
@@mmtv4608 That's a 42 megapixel camera, so you could easily get away with using a crop mode and getting some more perceived reach with the 70-200. I say "perceived" because you'd get the same effect by shooting full-frame and cropping significantly.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thank you for the advice and tips 😊
You’re welcome!
Shot from a low angle. It will make the kids stand out and look bigger
Agreed!