Thanks Jeff. Great tip for the right side alignment with the cap. That will save me the cumbersome task of using the motion pro fork alignment tool. I have been guilty of using a wrench to hold the right side and I even know that could spin because I swap it out for an axle pull on every bike. Sometimes the obvious needs to be said for us amateurs.
Nice video Jeff. I work in aerospace and every multi-bearing joint, doesn't matter what its for (a control surface, a cargo door, landing gear, etc.), has one bearing location that acts as the anchor point. The other joints float to account for tolerances. On big assemblies, with lots of bearings (attach points), the tolerance stackup can be significant and cause binding as the mechanism travels through it's range. Exactly the same as the front forks/wheel. Two attach points, one is the anchor (the bake side because it's close to the rotor) the other is the floating to account for assembly buildup. Of course the "floating" side here gets clamped up after the free state position is determined but it's exactly the same concept.
Yeah I replaced my front wheel bearings then still had play and wondered why I finally figured it out by looking at the design of it like you said the axle needs to be tightened correctly then centre the fork legs sinch down the pinch bolts on fork legs. I came from owning Japanese mx bikes so I had to learn this for my ktm 250sx was interesting. Always checking for loose bolts too so I don't have issues at the track when im away from the workshop
I saw that video too! It really surprised me, coming from a factory mechanic. I agree, so many people don't understand the why, and then we get myths and dogma.
Thanks for the video. I was almost doing it right as I tapped the axle in place with a rubber mallet, always set the left fork leg "gap" as described, snugged the two left side bolts down to hold the axle, then snugged the right side cap and right side bolts, bike elevated on a stand. Will make this small change and do it right from now on 😆
Funny, right? Because the manual doesn’t instruct you to do what’s explained in the video. The manual says to tighten the nut, while all the pinch bolts are loose. Then put the bike on the ground, operate the front brake while compressing the suspension, and then tighten the pinch bolts.
Jesus Jeff, thank you so much, how obscure a problem (the gap fear), and I found your video in like 3 minutes to address this. Thank you so much, your content is amazing.
people might miss the point here: your forks are two parallel lines that have parts moving inside in accordance with those lines; if over tight the axle using wrench on both sides, you mess the geometry that screws up the performance of your suspension.
I use 80/100-21 for trails and 90/100-21 for Baja sand. My go to front tire is the Bridgestone X31 slavensracing.com/shop/battlecross-x31-soft-to-intermediate-tire-by-bridgestone/
If its only a cap, why do they machine it with a hex head? Maybe just design - but then its not good, as it is misleading the (totally correct) intuition. Anyways - I always did it as you described since 20 years. It would be good, if the hex head was glued or pressed in with enough rigidity, as the method is just faster than ours, if a secound 17mm wrench is at hand ;-)
the lesson we learned today ladies and gentlemen, is that the Kool Kids don't need to use torque wrenches.Their hands are calibrated and re-calibrated regularly. So next time you see someone assemble brakes, axles, triples, MOTORS...if you see them NOT using a torque wrench, well then you know this guy's customer is gonna be A-OK
When I bought my first dirt bike I also got torque wrenches. Now I rarely use them. I never did before and it worked fine but thought maybe these things needs this but nah. Never had any issues skipping them. It's not rocket science. It's just a bike
I read that same article recently and the fact the he put a wrench on the axle cap left me scratching my head. Thanks for addressing this 👍
Thanks Jeff. Great tip for the right side alignment with the cap. That will save me the cumbersome task of using the motion pro fork alignment tool. I have been guilty of using a wrench to hold the right side and I even know that could spin because I swap it out for an axle pull on every bike. Sometimes the obvious needs to be said for us amateurs.
Nice video Jeff. I work in aerospace and every multi-bearing joint, doesn't matter what its for (a control surface, a cargo door, landing gear, etc.), has one bearing location that acts as the anchor point. The other joints float to account for tolerances. On big assemblies, with lots of bearings (attach points), the tolerance stackup can be significant and cause binding as the mechanism travels through it's range. Exactly the same as the front forks/wheel. Two attach points, one is the anchor (the bake side because it's close to the rotor) the other is the floating to account for assembly buildup. Of course the "floating" side here gets clamped up after the free state position is determined but it's exactly the same concept.
Yeah I replaced my front wheel bearings then still had play and wondered why I finally figured it out by looking at the design of it like you said the axle needs to be tightened correctly then centre the fork legs sinch down the pinch bolts on fork legs. I came from owning Japanese mx bikes so I had to learn this for my ktm 250sx was interesting. Always checking for loose bolts too so I don't have issues at the track when im away from the workshop
Hey Jeff, love your videos.
I saw that video too! It really surprised me, coming from a factory mechanic. I agree, so many people don't understand the why, and then we get myths and dogma.
Clear and concise. Thank you 👍
Thanks for the video.
I was almost doing it right as I tapped the axle in place with a rubber mallet, always set the left fork leg "gap" as described, snugged the two left side bolts down to hold the axle, then snugged the right side cap and right side bolts, bike elevated on a stand.
Will make this small change and do it right from now on 😆
Nice work!
Another great video. Thanks Jeff
Glad you enjoyed it
simple and best explanation!.Thanks!!
Great video, had an issue with my fe350…..no more issue 👍🏻
Damn thats a pretty machine. Gettin goose bumps!
Jeff I saw that video also... couldnt belive this guy is a PRO ??? dont belive much u see on -line Jim two stroke
If people would just read the manual it explains how to do this in very simple, straight forward steps.
Read the what?
Funny, right? Because the manual doesn’t instruct you to do what’s explained in the video. The manual says to tighten the nut, while all the pinch bolts are loose. Then put the bike on the ground, operate the front brake while compressing the suspension, and then tighten the pinch bolts.
Jesus Jeff, thank you so much, how obscure a problem (the gap fear), and I found your video in like 3 minutes to address this. Thank you so much, your content is amazing.
Glad it was helpful!
Simple and to the point
Thank you.
people might miss the point here: your forks are two parallel lines that have parts moving inside in accordance with those lines; if over tight the axle using wrench on both sides, you mess the geometry that screws up the performance of your suspension.
What keeps the wheel from sliding back and forth on the axle with the small gap there in the right ?
The shoulder on the axle as I explained in the video.
Thanks for the video Jeff. Just curious about the size of your front tire. Looks large? What size and wod love to know why. Thanks
I use 80/100-21 for trails and 90/100-21 for Baja sand. My go to front tire is the Bridgestone X31 slavensracing.com/shop/battlecross-x31-soft-to-intermediate-tire-by-bridgestone/
In the front axle there is a 10bolt inside on a sxf 250 2017
If we don’t put it back there is a problem ?
No, that is just a plastic piece so you can use a T-handle wrench to push out the axle.
What is the Measurement of the 300d Ktm & Husky? I want to order off the Sight and it gives 2 options. 22 and 26mm. My Bike is 2023 TE300i HE.
What year and model 300 and what product do you want to order?
@@slaverace1 apparently its 22 Mm and it was the Front Rotor Protector thats not available currently out of stock’
What does the internal bolt in the axle do?
It's there to push out the axle with a t-handle wrench.
Do the ktm axles need to be greased when reinstalling?
Not really but a thin film of grease helps installation.
👍👍
I can't tell you how many times the pinch bolts are cranked down a crazy amount.
15 NM
If its only a cap, why do they machine it with a hex head? Maybe just design - but then its not good, as it is misleading the (totally correct) intuition. Anyways - I always did it as you described since 20 years. It would be good, if the hex head was glued or pressed in with enough rigidity, as the method is just faster than ours, if a secound 17mm wrench is at hand ;-)
the lesson we learned today ladies and gentlemen, is that the Kool Kids don't need to use torque wrenches.Their hands are calibrated and re-calibrated regularly. So next time you see someone assemble brakes, axles, triples, MOTORS...if you see them NOT using a torque wrench, well then you know this guy's customer is gonna be A-OK
I have found that to be just the opposite. I have had to buy larger tools and even go to a diesel truck shop because of "calibrated hands". Peace.
🤣🤣🤣
When I bought my first dirt bike I also got torque wrenches. Now I rarely use them. I never did before and it worked fine but thought maybe these things needs this but nah. Never had any issues skipping them. It's not rocket science. It's just a bike