DRZ 470sm Stroker Project
Vložit
- čas přidán 14. 01. 2021
- this is my experience building a 470 stroker for my buddies DRZ400sm. This is not intended to be a how-to but rather a documentation of my experience with this project. Some portions of this project were not shown or described but I think the viewer should get the general idea. This is a compilation of some videos that I shared on my Instagram as I made progress through the project. Please leave a comment!
#drz400sm
#drz470 Stroker
I've yet to get my DRZ but I do remember the day I started my NSR/RG500 project for the first time.
That was about 20 years ago.
There's nothing more satisfying than hearing it lite for the first time after so much blood sweat and foul language.
From the day I took measurements to the day it was done was something like 2 1/2 years (was put on hold because of life). I moved a couple of times during the project so it was a miracle I found all the pieces.
I definitely know the feeling of giving it a kick and having it come to life.
✌️👍
That must have been a heck of a bike to hear roar back to life!
@@DRZWhisperer
There's a video of it being pulled out of storage and cleaned up.
It sat for about 5 years and lit on the 3 or 4 kick.
Check it out.
Also heading out to check out a SM this Saturday morning.
I don't have a single in the current line up. Soon I will.
@@franktaylor7617 I'll definitely check it out.
Im just seeing this for the first time. Absolutely wonderful! Thank you for sharing!
There's more where that came from
Same build that's in my bike with different jugs same size basically same spec assuming it's a cylinder works jug but mine does have a built ported head not sure if your stock head or not just skimmed through your videos on break at work but I have the hot rods stroker crank , Athena 94mm bbk jug with widened water jackets with CP Carrillo 94mm forged Piston with 12:5 comp ratio. Weisco base gasket and triple layer head gasket provided with the 470 kit as well as stage 2 hot cams ARP max lock head studs and hardware kit, Kibble whites titanium valve and spring kit ACT wide ratio trans, full skf bearings in bottom end MCT FMF power core 4 (cut and shortened to a 9 1/2 inch stubby muffler) with the powerbomb head pipe but I also run dynatech programmable cdi box Ricky's stator and fcr39 carb jetted for my build and location and next to do is Custom web cams and possibly a blow through carb and turbo set up in the future when I get bored of 64 wheel hp and 130 mph top speed. Bike also has a few weight reduction parts on it such as custom renforced carbon fiber sub frame and as much deleted from the bike as possible and so far it's been a champ and runs with any of the 701s 500s and 450s it lines runs with that used to bully it. My build is just shy of $14k and probably the most fun I've had on a bike
Awesome Dude!!!
Just watched again and the new motor sounds awesome congrats good job!
Thanks for checking it out. I will be doing a new build soon when my parts get here for an e-model engine also doing wide ratio transmission
@@DRZWhisperer hey buddy what vavle you use an did you have to do port work for 470cc big bore
@@darielcaban I used stuck l stock valves and springs as stage 2 hot cams call for stock as opposed to the web cams, which are more aggressive. I just milled down the casting marks on the head with my drimmel
Sorry about your mom hoping she's doing well now.
Awesome
Hi, I have kit 470 stroker and hot cams in my drz
and I must admit that it is a very big difference and I am extremely satisfied with it
How long have you had the kit in there, any issues etc, or all good?
Thanks
@@timdudeney5072 hi, yes all IS good, i have kit 2 seasons And 8000 km And its all good, sorry my english no good.
Hey buddy what vavle you use an did you have to do port work ??
Thanks for the vid but.. no hammer impact set for those poor starter screws?????
Nice build
Thanks for the input. I've actually done two thus far this one was for my friend and I did one for my bike both basically the same setup just he had the full Yoshi exhaust and I have an FMF header with a two brothers slip on that I had to use an exhaust pipe expander on to be able to fit over the FMF as the two brothers was only designed to go over a stock header. I really wish I had a better means to do video and editing however this was the most efficient way to share my experience I hope you enjoyed it.
@17:47ish I just installed stage 2 Hotcams on my DRZ400S with less than 2,800 miles. I noticed the same thing with the timing being a tad bit off.
everyone here needs to get an impact driver, no, not the electric or air drill thing, I mean the hand held screwdriver you hit with a hammer, I bought an abandoned drz400 from the seaside, sitting for 5 years outside, got every single bold off that bike without a single incident, they arent expensive, but well worth the money, thank me later.
awesome stuff!! I’m going through my first rebuild now. I
Share your progress with me on Instagram
@@DRZWhisperer I have a better understanding now but do you think I should pay a shop to do it? I took it apart no problem. I have a cylinder kit, piston, cylinder head and cams on the way. not sure what valve and springs to use
@@fjcastani7041 it would be better if you had a little bit of experience with this but I'm sure if you take your time you can be successful. Make sure and install new bearings and check clearance between the crankshaft and the counterbalancer. If there's any question pay someone else to do it if you want it to be right
@@DRZWhisperer well I only intend too add a new top end. not split the cases. bottom end appears to be good. Imy can journal got damaged that’s why I need a new cylinder head
@@fjcastani7041 easy peasy
Do you know the has mileage you get? Do you think this would be practical for daily, or would it use too much gas? I’ve heard the fcr guzzles gas.
So far I'm daily driving the two 470 strokers with fcr39 carbs setup identically and jetted identically and they are both right at 40mpg for commuting.
what is the big bore kit anyways? i keep seeing this. got a drz400 at around 8.5k miles on it. i use it mainly for highways so i got a 15/38 gear ratio. wanna give it more power. this would just give u a larger cylinder jug to push it up to around 500cc? very interesting
In this build I installed a stroker crankshaft which adds displacement by increasing the stroke of the piston in addition to adding a big bore cylinder and piston. There have been some people that have built some extreme combinations reaching to about 490 cc's but that is right at the edge of what is possible. This build I am running completely stock gearing 15 front and 41 rear. With that I have a lot of low and mid-range power that just is not there with the stock engine. It also has more peak horsepower that would be able to handle that large of adjustment that you have on your final drive with the smaller rear sprocket. If you look on my channel I built another engine for my e-model and I changed the transmission gears to the ACT wide ratio gears. With this gear set and makes no change to first gear mild changes to second and third gear and big changes to 4th and 5th. Although I have it set up with a dirt set currently as it is winter I will occasionally throw on a Super Moto set with stock gearing and will share the results. Fourth gear on this bike will be a lot like 5th gear and 5th gear would be like the 6th gear that it does not have because of the changes made. These types of modifications can cost you quite a bit just for the parts and quite a bit more to have somebody else do them but I saved myself a lot of trouble because I am mechanically inclined and have been inside many engines at this point so I did it myself. I would suggest doing some research on this topic and find an appropriate combination of modifications that would best suit you.
I see that the finish on the top side of the bb cylinder is not shaved. It has a bead blast finish. Did this issue cause you any problems with sealing the head? The company I purchased the bb kit actually sent me a cylinder with the same issue, although they sent me a second kit with the finished machine work on the top of the cylinder. Unfortunately the bottom surface of the cylinder still had the bead blast finish. This situation caused an oil leak between the crankcase and cylinder.
0 issues
That's bad ass how much do you have into that motor build if you don't mind me asking
Since the motor was purchased can do the math for what they are going for plus the parts which would probably be about $1,500 or so today give or take probably give and since I did it myself and not have to consider labor a person can have two to $3,000 in one of these really easy
Hi Mate
How is the bike going now?
Has it had any issues, or is it still all going strong? Really interested in doing a WR box and big bore or stroker kit on mine.
Thanks
Tim
Thanks for the comment, Tim. This engine is going quite well although he doesn't run it very much but the second one that is in my possession I'm in it about 1200 miles so far changing oil every 500 miles. I think a wide ratio gearbox would complement this bike especially for highway use. I didn't go with the wide ratio and I'm pretty satisfied with it at this point. The added power of the build as I did it as a build because both of them were the same, compliments the speeds were a lot of the bikes with stock gearing seem to struggle a little bit so I'm not too worried about it. If I wanted a little longer legs I would probably just drop a tooth or two off of the rear sprocket and just go with it. Honestly I would like to do a build that completely mirrors this build and put them side by side and do some comparisons in acceleration stability and gas mileage vibration the whole package.
So u deleted the electric start? Sounds awesome. Like one in my 06 sm
No, rather kickstart in addition to electric start. Backup plan or just to show off.
Are you going to do any type of break in procedure? I have had success with heat cycling
After getting it started,, I took it on a 30 minute ride intentionally varying rpms and avoiding high RPMs and then changed the oil
How come you chose the 39mx over the 41mx ?
Good question. The FCR 39 does not provide the highest amount of air flow and peak horsepower numbers line the 41, but it has, from my research, the better performance everywhere else. Since I'm not chasing dyno numbers, this was the more practical choice.
Morning sir... Did you use a service manual if so Link?
The DRZ companion app has a full service manual as well as some tightening torque specs for quick reference.
Timing chain is correct
Cam chain, timing chain, thing that makes a lot of noise when the tensioner guess bad. Thanks for chiming in!
do you need spacer or triple gasket for +4 stronker? im building mine and i want to run high comp 14:1 but i need to know if i need spacer so valves wont touch the piston
In that case you're going to want to have either a spare head gasket and base gasket to try different configurations and measure squish with a plastigauge. Basically you'll have to mock the whole thing up and torque down and see what kind of clearance you have. I really don't advise you do that however. Having to run on race fuel and I don't know what octane you have to run to prevent predetonation but at least 110 I'm guessing maybe 116. With the standard kit and a 12 and 1/2 to 1 ratio piston, you're good at 91 or 93 providing that your jetted correctly. So many of the advice givers in the forums cause people to be jetted way too lean and can cause problems. Whatever it is that you end up running I wish you good luck. Let's keep the conversation going I'm interested in why you are wanting to push the compression so far
If I wanted to squeeze a little bit of extra power out of it rather than going with the stage 2 Hot cams like I did I'd say get a custom webb cams and spend some money on someone to do some head work like larger valves. That's just advice ad I'm a firm believer that people need to do their projects how they want to do them not how somebody else wants them to do them. I'm just thinking that might be a little bit more practical way for somebody to do something like this.
@@DRZWhisperer well my bike was 450 95.5 piston with 13:1 cr no stroker and i was very happy with it it made close to 48whp.All was good i had no problems with gaskets or anything.I was using 100 oct from gas station.But next i had a problem with the crankshaft it was cut in half so i bought a stroker a new piston and new bearings to rebuild it.Im going to use the same 13 cr piston and the stroker will add a bit comp to bring to close to 14.I had no problems with 13 so i want to try with a bit more.I can use some octane boosters with the 100oct gas to rise it a bit.Bike its not a daily drive
@@tougeattack123 just make sure and mock up the crankshaft with the counter balancer and measure the clearance between the two when they come closest together on the mock-up so that they don't make clearance the hard way causing you heartache and money. Worst case scenario, you might have to get a Dremel after your the casting of the crank. Why must it have clearance you might ask. When it heats up it expands and then you don't have clearance anymore result bang. Make sure and calculate the proper ring Gap for that kind of compression so you don't end up with a problem. My engine building experience is limited and it sounds like you might need to ask some advice from a real pro. There are some thumper talk forum entries that talk about a guy named Eddie that has built some real monsters. You might refer to those for more information
@@DRZWhisperer well since im from europe there are no special parts for drz here like web cams so i have to re profile my hotcams to a web grind.Valves also its not where to find.Im going kicker only btw but i will keep the battery becouse i want to add a 12v electric water pump in series with the stock pump to add a bit of cooling.I got bigger rads allready
Hey mate, mint build! Would you mind sharing your jetting specs? I just installed a big bore kit and hotcams (no stroker... yet hehe) in my drz, looking to try and get it running mint.
There are plenty of jetting recommendations on the thumpertalk site. The factory carburetor is different than the FCR carb. There is a James Dean or JD jet kit for both carbs that come with very good instructions. A few rules of thumb to think about: if the bike pops on deceleration, and/or you have a high idle that a mixture screw adjustment doesn't clean up, you will want to increase the pilot jet a single size, but make sure you don't have an air leak on your boot that attaches the carb to cylinder head. The main jet tuning will need a little more attention. The you will want to "read" the spark plug to determine if your selection is"lean" or "rich". There are some good charts of examples of each. Things that affect jetting to think about other than your motorcycle's kit: elevation, temperature, and, humidity. Good luck. Remember look at thumpertalk and read all of their getting threads, then if you're still lost, make a post on there. If this is a little out of your wheelhouse, have a shop do your jetting because missing the mark can result in disaster. Good luck
Did you end up having any luck with your jetting?
@@DRZWhisperer Hi, Yes, I ended up getting it dyno tuned. Ended up with a 42 pilot and 148 main jet. Tuned running the RS2 with the insert in.
What stroker cylinder and piston did you buy?
It's a 94 mm cylinder and the hotrods stroker crankshaft. CP piston
@@DRZWhisperer AWESOME - like to get another one and do the stroker and the gear set both.
You know there is a plug on the side of the head meant for blowing dirt out of the spark plugs hole
Yes the weep hole allows for any liquid that gets trapped in the spark plug well as well as cleaning out as you describe. Since the engine had been in storage for years and not necessarily tightly sealed we ended up with the debris in the stock engine, but we did away with the components that could have been affected by that anyway. Thanks for stop and by and the comment. See you next time
What jet did you using?
Currently running a 170 main and 40 pilot
This is using the fcr carburetor
which piston and cylinder are those ? not quite looking righr cw or athena
Cylinder works and a CP Piston
@@DRZWhisperer oh ok, my cw kit came with a vertex piston with side skirt coating so thats the difference. However on the barrel i notice that your nikasil coating seem to extend under the barrel, mine doesnt. Guess there were some variations
@@Syntax152 all I can say is to make sure and Gap your rings properly. It's probably one of the most fundamental mistakes I've seen people make when doing it themselves is not clearancing them enough or at all. If you have not done it find someone that can help you with it
@@DRZWhisperer will definately check that, have you gone with oem clearance ?
@@Syntax152 no you don't go with OEM clearance. The compression is higher and you're dealing with a forged piston not a cast one. Most Pistons come with a calculator for measuring proper clearances. If you're not sure ask somebody that's done it before. It is my experience that they most come tight but remember cutting tools don't come with erasers. In my most recent build on the drz400e earlier this year I show a technique of using a file in a vise that is what I used but it is crude. An engine shop will be equipped with the proper tool and may even help you get it clearance properly and deburr it
Who needs electric start anyway? If it takes more the two kicks you're doing something wrong.
Of course it has it but I felt the need to start the momentum myself!
im going kick only my self
18:10 wtf
Hey sometimes you have to make your own sound effects to enhance the experience.