Fitting the Wipac LED side lights and indicators to the early Defenders - notes and a Post Card!
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- čas přidán 5. 03. 2019
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Britannica Restorations Ltd
9 Ch. Rawson
Sherbrooke
Quebec
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This made my morning less complicated thanks to you Micheal!
Glad to hear it!
just fitted them to my Defender, with the old light base still screwed in took the lenses off I used a 2mm drill to drill through the 2 lens fixing holes which are the same width as the fixings for the new LEDs, I then took the old lights out and I opened the 2mm holes up to take 4mm stainless rivet nuts and purchased some 4mm stainless steel screws instead of using the self tappers, worked a treat
Thank you for this, just buying my Wipac Led set now as the original lights on my 1991 defender have melted and/or don't work!
...glad you liked the card, wasn't sure whether the carrier pigeon I sent was up to the flight to Canada....we have a few acres here for a garden....and an old barn and byre for the landy workshop :)
Pigeon was a bit buggered by the time it got here - think a Raccoon got it!
Hehe that's exactly what I have ordered (kit wipac and 6+2 leads) for my 200tdi. Thanks, this video will be very useful in few days for me.
Maybe we can use nut like this www.paddockspares.com/cza4705l-nut-lokut.html
Way too large - the 300Tdi + used small 5mm square nuts of the similar style
@@BritannicaRestorations Thx for the tip. I have used it today :)
Definitely made in England, the wipac factory is about 10 miles away from me in Buckingham, I've been there a few times through work, very interesting place, and quite surprising who they manufacturer lights for,
Good to know - there are no markings on the boxes - I have had quite a few get moisture in them when they get old, but you can buy individuals at a reasonable price
Great I wish I had one would get into all the had to reach places
I was thinking of fitting these to my series 3 along with the halo lights
Brilliant heads up, I’ve got sequential side led indicators how do I add in the incandescent light please 👌
well done just fitting a set to my 110 :0) Welding in a replacement for a worn out rear spring seat next (worn out! after 240k mls 120k due to me)
I got round the problem with LED’s grounding thro the dash indicator telltale lamp and other side indicators by fitting a common cathode LED into the indicator telltale bulb holder, this mod provides telltale with a direct path to ground electrically isolating the other side indicators. After drilling (or melting) a small hole for the cathode (insulated with bit heat shrink of sleeving) to pass through the base of a spare bulb holder. Cutting down and carefully bending out the anodes (long legs) to fit neatly into the LH and RH bulb holder contacts and secured with a wee touch of solder. Then soldered a 500 or 1000 ohm current limiting resistor to the cathode which in turn was soldered and heatshrinked to a wire screwed down to a nearby earthing point. This can also be made by using two back to back white LED’s superglued together with cathodes (short legs) twisted together passing down the centre and connected via resistor to ground. For my first attempt I ground flats on the cathode side of two 5mm diffused white or green LED’s and superglued the flats together so they would fit into the indicator bulb hole in dash warning lamp panel.
Cost 40p with a bit of messing about, saving £20 purchasing an LED Earth Fix Kit online I was able to remove all incandescent bulbs replacing them with LED’s even the side repeaters are now LED’s eliminating a potential problem caused by any remaining bulb failure. Happy to send a pic or drawing to share it with anyone else who wants to do this when fitting the LED kit.
There is also an RDX LED for the indicator on eBay for those who are not so confident with wiring
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394294827529?hash=item5bcdcd9a09:g:H0UAAOSwmPhjYjTV
Mike, why not use aluminum rivet nuts and small stainless machine screws to do te install. This way if there's a need to remove the lights there's no stripping issues?
Cheers for another great film, just an idea could you use an old steel three screw light base, and then the two screw holes that hold the lens on would give you the correct place to drill the two new holes. Just an idea.
Yes that would be a good idea!
Wish I'd kept my old ones to try this.
Exactly... Very helpful. I screwed mine directly into the wing aluminium but now the screws won't grab. Shame wipac didn't provide speed nuts or similar. Ministry of naff design strikes again.
The screws I got with mine were too long as well , I put shorter stainless ones in.
As it is a specific Defender kit you would have thought they would have known that?
I used the old light as a template and drilled through the lens holder spigot with the light still in situ that way the holes are in the right place with no need to measure
I didn't have one
@@BritannicaRestorations I take it the old ones were gone before the respray...
No they were the 3 hole base ones
@@BritannicaRestorations yes the small spigots that you screw the lens cap to on the old one, you get a 3mm bit and drill the holes through and it lines up perfectly with the 73mm new screw holes
@@AstalStainClan2011 did the same, lined up perfectly. just need one old 3 hole lamp as a template.
Ive got a 94 300tdi hardtop- i bought a set of these but hit trouble when trying to replace rear lights, Ive got older style lights with festoon bulb under lenses on the rear, theyre grounded to the car and only have positive wire. Have you seen this before? planning on rigging up some makeshift grounds to get them going.
Does not sound standard - but as you say, you can rig up a ground quite easy
Mike, the comments section appears to be switched off on the alloy wheel video. I don't know if you want to transfer this comment to that video.
As well as fouling the bolt heads, the wheel will foul the drive flange itself on the bevelled interior section of the wheel between the recesses for the flange bolts. You have a black witness mark of that next to the scratch you think came from the bolt head. I suspect the scratch is actually from the square tip of the drive flange "star point".
The wheel will sit approximately 3mm or 1/8" off the hub using slim headed bolts that avoid the wheel, just from drive flange contact. This is the risk that you rightly raise and most don't realise exists, thinking the centre cap protrusion is the only issue.
Brake drum centres are roughly 6mm or 1/4" thick. I used the centres of two scrap drums as spacers, along with Wolf studs (1/2" longer than standard). I did need to tap the threads deeper into the wheel nuts to accommodate the longer studs. The cap still won't quite fit as the plastic cone is in the way, but I found another way around that (my shafts and flanges had worn splines, so I had them welded together and no longer needed the black cone).
Another alternative is to use the domed flanges and shafts from a 200Tdi RRC or Discovery, but that will need the CV joints to be swapped over.
No the bolt heads were hitting the wheel
There are some wheels that can accommodate the larger flange which is why I said certain wheels are a problem
I have the five spoke RR wheels, as used on the CSK limited edition. they certainly fouled the flange when I tried fitting them with the bolts' locking washers removed. I was told the Boost and Deep Dish wheels have a deeper aperture for the hub and that they fit without any alterations, but have never tried them.
As well as sticking a bit of Tiger seal in the back where the wires go in, would it be a good idea to run a small bead of tiger seal around the base of the light, where the lens meets the black plastic back or not? Do these LED lights need ventilation?
they do not need ventilation and not sure about Tiger seal as I do not have a Tiger
@@BritannicaRestorations Haha, ok so do you reckon it's worth sealing to stop water getting in? Have you noticed a problem with water ingress with the ones you fitted?
They are potted with resin - not much chance of ingress but it may happen
I just got this same wipac set and my 1986 ex-MOD early defender rear stop light isn't working. wipac light is black red white. stop light is black red purple/green.
ive matched the colours apart from the purple/green and the brake illuminates when I don't have the lights switched on, but when the lights are on there's no change when the brake is pressed.
advice greatly appreciated :)
So if you put a test light on the green/purple and to ground do you get a brake light?
Could be a ground issue as these lights are sometimes backwards as LED 'ground' via the positive
Noticed the 90 has lights in the bumbers did you cut out for them or buy a new bumber with a cut out for them
Bought the bumper as a kit- lights were not fitted but fiddly to get right
But! What for all their spangly and shinyness, do you think they will last as long as the Lucas 75 sealed beams what have been on my Rover P6B for the past... 🤔 Nearly 50 years 😱 - almost twice as long as I've been alive 😂..
Kudos for keeping your defender looking so tidy though! 😊 I've seen a lot of those types of Land Rovers frequent my friends workshop, and they are always in terrible condition.. And always owned by toffs who couldn't fix a puncture on a motorbike.. But I live in London so what do you expect.. 🤷🏻♂️
Keep up the good work!
The original Defender side/indicator lights were notoriously bad - we have a joke that says they are water cooled!
Endless issues with corroded bulb contacts, so the LED were a good upgrade - however, I would have preferred something more 'classic' and less sparkly
I think I remember you saying a few months back that you prefer the standard incandescent bulb units because they melt frost and snow off the lenses better. Was that right, and is this a change of heart or just a customer specification? I'm curious as it's a mod I'm mulling over as I'm fed up with cleaning out the water ingress and subsequent lichen growing inside the lenses.
The original lamps were pathetic at best - yes good at melting snow etc, but also melting the lens and housing
These were on customers spec
I would have liked something more 'classic' rather than these sparkly ones, but there are not many options - I have tried LED bulbs in classic housings - they were OK but still lets water get in corroding connections
Thanks. I can get a set for 80GBP shipped to me, cheaper than the UK because of the tax differential. But it sounds like it's not worth the cost. I used Gen Parts lamps because I had a couple of Britpart lamps melt the central contact (positive) into the floating plastic disc. I use vaseline on the contacts to prevent corrosion, and haven't had one fail since (15 years or so), but the condensation and slow lichen growth is irritating. Maybe I'll just use a smear of clear RTV sealant to keep the water out.
I might still fit the LED fog and reverse lamps, though - I have two of each on my 109, the later circular type, with the fog lights where Defenders have their indicators and the reverse lights where the fog and reverse lamps normally are. At 25W, they suck a lot of current when they're on, and the reverse lamp lenses have discoloured anyway.
It sounds like you have the same taste and concerns as me. Thanks for the reply.
Hmm all mine cut off all bullets and soldered the connections, leaving the later ecconoseal connector, ps the new ryobi 18v soldering iron is a great help, far better than a gas powered iron, many thanks for your vid, ps have a look at the britpart led driving lights, amazing, regards phil
Why they dont make these with the holes as per original is beyond me, it seems crazy having to drill new holes. That's the only reason i dont have them fitted to my 90....
They stopped the 3 hole ones about 1994
Think il stick with the Lucas, tacky leds 😂
Thank you. Finally someone I can agree with.
why not just swap the wires on the led lights with bullit connectors?
I’m not sure I like the look of these led lamps