One of my worst mistakes // Paul Brodie's Shop
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 22. 10. 2021
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The man that never made a mistake, never made anything.
So true.
In situations like these there's really only one thing to do. Drink rum. Very reletable.
I don't have rum, but I do have a good substitute.
very honorable of you to show your mistake Paul, you could have just carried on with the other frame and we would have never known.đđ
Yes, but that's not the real world. I have made a lot of mistakes over the years and they are a part of life.
@@paulbrodie that is true but not everybody would show them to the world. I think it is the teacher in you and making mistakes grows knowledge.
@@paulbrodie So true. I do a very similar job and THE MISTAKE is always around the corner.. đ„Žđ
đ Enjoyed the video
We all make mistakes. Even if you didn't have the spare frame, I am confident you would crank up the lathe and find a way to carve out a replacement, man. Much respect to you, Paul...(and Mitch too!)
Thank you Christian.
It's not making a mistake that counts, it's how you recover from it.
Of course you recovered with style and skill.
I've been told it's the mark of a true professional. You can't help but make a mistake sometimes but how you recover shows your skill.
You are class and grace under fire, Paul-Well done â đ
Thank you Michael.
''Bugger'' springs to mindđ Great content Paul & love that you don't hide anything from your viewers.
Thank you Graham.
I love how you still have faith in the guy who stole your wrenches, by leaving the knife there you were believing in the inherent goodness of people. That's awesome mate!
Thank you Murray. Yes, it is good to have faith in human nature, and hope for the best. This time it worked out for sure, and I think the kid learned a lesson. Thanks for watching! đ
I have to admire a hero who airs his errs in public - i'm sure you could mend it if you had a mind to - Stay safe
It took me a lotta years to realize that the key to doing a good spray paint job is having a way to hold the parts. For small parts I make a frame of scrap wood, like a picture frame and string the parts up in the frame with stainless safety wire. Having parts sitting on a surface doesnât work. They get blown off or the paint bridges to the table.
Yes, it is not easy to do a great spray job.. I also use stainless safety wire.From the videos I have watched, most people are not that good at spray painting. Thanks for commenting!
I've been there and done that same thing, it sucks. But there's always welding to fix it. Good work though Paul.
Thank you David. Can't weld a casting, they need to be brazed. That frame is not worth fixing, I'm afraid.
Takes a very honest person to show their errors. Hat tipped in your direction Paul.
Thank you Justin.
"let me just grab this spare frame from the corner..." You're probably the only person on the planet who could have done that. Great video and great lesson!
Thanks Cliff. I'm sure other Cub collectors have a few frames kicking around. I was fortunate to have two. It is a shame I ruined a frame AND a swingarm all in one go. Live and learn.
@@paulbrodie I've seen your work, I bet you could salvage that frame if you put your mind to it... :)
@@Cliff_Anderson Maybe, but I'd rather just move on and put my mind on other stuff..
@@Cliff_Anderson I wondered if part of the rear down tube, complete with its broken swing arm lug, could have been cut out of the frame and one in the other frame similarly cut out and grafted in. Steel "plug" inserts could be made up on a lathe to go inside the tubes to reinforce the joint and then everything could be welded back together. The only alignment needed would have been forward and aft, to make sure the swing arm pointed straight back. But anyway, always more than one way to skin a cat - sorry, Tiger Cub! P.S. I'm in UK and really enjoying these videos.
Paul you where very calm, personally I would have thrown one of the new/old wrenches a long way! âïž
Just one, my son would have thrown the whole frame.
Paul when you turned that bottom triple clamp over and staring to drill I knew instantly what you were doing. Absolutely brilliant!
Thank you much.
i was installing the outer race to some tapered roller bearings in my nickle plated trackmaster racing frame steering head.it was going in and i hit it with a wooden mallet and cracked the steering head about a 2 inch crack.some times the wind dont blow and the grass dont grow(movie LITTLE BIG MAN).....
It's always good to measure the pieces to know EXACTLY how much of a press fit there is. Sounds like you had a bit too much. Fixing a cracked, nickel plated, steering head is no easy task.
Awesome. Loved the bracket modification especially. Mistakes be damned. :)
That bearing race removal trick is genius. Wish I had thought of that thirty years ago. We all make mistakes in life. That's what makes us Human. Live and learn. That is the fun part. So, now what. Make a new one? You can do it. I know you can. Even with a little help from your CZcams friends. đ I know a guy that can make a new casting.
Thank you Stanley. I have a second frame so I am using that. It's in the paint booth right now.
Wish you had time-stamped it
Don't be too hard on yourself Paul. Even the master can make mistakes.
Oh Yes!!
Just discovered your site. Really marvelous what you can do in the way of renovating 60 year old technology. Makes me so disappointed that I did woodwork at school instead of metalwork.......Tony Mackay in Ontario.
I did woodwork in Grade 8, but then I discovered the Metalwork shop and never looked back.
One thing I learned working on projects and or building things, mistakes are going to happen. Unfortunate when they cause severe damage to an important piece, but as you say, life goes on and we learn from it.
That ransom note on your post box mustâve been quite interesting for the neighbours! âBring back my wrenches or your knife gets itâ
Felt that split frame though. Your levelheaded attitude shines through, as always
Thank you Leigh.
As soon as the paint flaked off I knew what had happened. I've had similar things happen to me.
At that moment I had already passed the point of no return.
only the one who does nothing breaks nothing. good luck for the rest of the work and thank you for all these beautiful videos.
Sorry for my poor english, i'm just a little frenchy đ€
Your English is just fine for me.
So true your comment that the only people that never make mistakes are those who
Never do anything. And itâs ironic that those same people are usually the ones who will point out everyone elseâs mistakes.
Dave, thanks for watching and commenting!
Bravo Paul, mi piace come lavori! âïžđ
I once cut a $600 dollar piece of lumber 1 foot short ! You get over it but you don't forget it. Good thing you have the skill to repair it. That will be a therapeutic repair.
And I'll bet it was EXACTLY one foot short! We are all human and mistakes will happen.
I have to hand it to you... you have the patience of a saint. I had a similar experience using a friend's press when rebuilding my antique lathe's back gear. It was cast iron and shattered to pieces. The good thing is I got to learn how to make gears. I'm sorry you had this happen.
Hey, it's just one more thing. We're all human, and I make mistakes too. You fix it, you learn, and life goes on. Thanks for commenting.
Well you are man enough to show us you are human, I usually make 2 or 3 of something because my dyslexia upsets my measuring ability, at least it's a part of the bike you haven't just spent 20 hrs on, suck it up, don't dwell on it, you have a solution, keep moving forward,
Paul I'm surprised that you didn't just fix that frame and go on. I know you can make it like new. Great stuff. Kudos for showing mistakes.
That would be a very hard fix. To make the casting round, the correct interference fit, and in perfect alignment (as it came from the factory..) would not be simple at all.
@Alfred Wedmore Alfred, I think you have summed it up very well. "Fatal disaster" is the correct way to describe what I did. Frame AND swingarm all in one go!
@Alfred Wedmore Alfred, no worries. I think you would always need a press, preferably hydraulic. I can't see a hand drift working..
@Alfred Wedmore Alfred, I would agree with you :)
Perhaps you could have cut the damaged section out of the frame and welded in the other frame section? Same with the down tube.
Thank you for showing the mistake and how you dealt with it. Iâve learned more than just engineering skill from you today.
Thank you Dave.
Commiserations Paul we've all been there re the frame in some way or other, great tip bout the bottom race removal. cheers. Al.
I think we all felt that crappy feeling in the stomach and mind when you have damaged something of need and importance.
You try and soldier on like everythings ok, but deep down it's eating you knowing what you just did.
Lucky that you have the spare frame Paul.
Love this channel as its my Sunday morning breakfast sit down here in Melbourne.
Hello Australia! Yes, it certainly was fortunate to have that spare frame..
Don't worry Paul we all make mistakes, a fabricator with your skills shouldn't be a problem to fix.
After all the struggles with various bike's lower headrace bearings your removal method is so simple that it makes me feel just a little bit " why didn't I ever think of that". I'll not forget that in a hurry.
Dave, thanks for watching and commenting!
Making unintended errors is part of the game---no matter how carefully we plan for an operation there are the unforseen factors that can alter the result. The good news is that we can fix our errors, spend time that wasn't planned but with skill get back to where we started. Just a learning experience but hard not to beat oneself up about it. If you hadn't shared this with us you would have shouldered the guilt in private. We are in good company!!
Thanks Bill. I did make a mistake, and learned from it, and felt bad, but I would not use "guilt" for this learning lesson. Thanks for watching and commenting.
If that's the worst mistake you make ... you will be grand ...
No ones hurt ... it's not a bad day.
I know it's just metal, but it is a 63 year old Tiger Cub frame that was in very good shape, so I do feel bad about ruining it.
@@paulbrodie wouldnt it weld back together , bore and sleeve it , and away you go again .
@@tomthompson7400 It's a casting so it would have to be brazed, not welded. Then you have to make the bore round and perfectly on size, so that you can then press the swingarm axle back in. If the brazing is not done perfectly, then the casting can split again, because it will always be the weak spot. Is it worth repairing for all that? No.
@@paulbrodie didnt realise it was a casting ,, you could turn a new one instead , and weld it in , but as you said , getting a bit carried away when its nothing rare or exotic , and you have another frame any way ...
My heart sank for you. Thank you for sharing this. New sub!
Thank you James.
great video !!!
I'm looking forward to seeing the repair video đ
Don't hold your breath.
Paul has the most pleasant disposition, he's like the Jordan Peterson of fabricators. He handled the press miscalculation with class. I too ruined the bore of a major part when I pressed a shaft out of that case,... not realizing there was a keyway and key still in the shaft. I was NOT so sublime about my mistake.
EDIT; to add the word NOT
John, thanks for watching.
sh.t happens ... esp. with power tools. The only way not to make mistakes is to do nothing... Thank you for these very informative and practical videos.
Thanks for watching.
Paul, making mistakes is the price we pay for "discovery". God, knows how many I've made.
I work on similar and larger machines where manuals are often "sketchy" and recently I rebuilt a Rockford Pullmore clutch. I went so far as to pull up the original patent for the clutch to discern how it was assembled. The machinist who built from the original patent, and included some refinements for captivating the clutch end plates ... that were discovered only through careful examination with magnifying lenses .... Alas, I discovered the "locking mechanism" that I recalled from prior experience with paper cutter clutches built by Stearns more then 60 years ago. I was elated to make that discovery, as the clutch was quickly disassembled without issue. "Past experience" and knowing that some machinists just love to hide things behind "locking mechanisms" that use hardened wedges. What I have come to learn through experience is that, often what appears to be simple, can often be quite complex. I thoroughly enjoy your recently discovered channel. Paul, you emit a "Zen like quality" that is obviously gives you a platform for "amazing skills". Keep creating! Love the channel!
Pat, thanks for watching and commenting!
One who does nog try, does not make a mistake. Respect to you, Paul. I foresee an episode where you mend the frame for a next project.
I think your crystal ball is a bit cloudy. No plans to fix that frame. Easier just to buy a good used one.
I feel your pain, Paul... I have a 59 Ford truck that I decided to restore years ago. I started by dismantling everything blasting and painting the frame and rebuilding each part as needed. When I got to the T98 transmission, (keep in mind that I had rebuilt a few other types by this point) I figured it would be pretty straightforward. On this type of transmission, you have to remove the counter cluster and drop it down in order to remove the input shaft and all the rest. So I started by pressing the counter cluster shaft out. The information I had said to remove it... Did not really say which way although the picture showed the correct way. So I stuck it in the press and long story short one side of the shaft is bigger than the other. I destroyed the case, counter gear cluster, and all the needle bearings in it... Yeah oops... That is why that transmission case sits in my shop as a reminder and my all-stock Ford truck is not all stock. Lesson learned.
I think a big part of this is making assumptions. I assumed I had measured in the correct place; you assumed the shaft came out a certain way. Must have made a bit of a bang, eh? I think I have learned I should not make assumptions. To actually live that, is not easy.
@@paulbrodie Oh Yeah! Big bang... split the counter cluster. I had access to a 100 ton press at the time so I did not really realise how hard it was to press in that direction unit it gave way. Had I been using an arbor press I would have realized something was wrong pretty quick. Lucky the flying parts were inside the transmission case. I am pretty sure by what I saw inside some of the shards would have been in me otherwise.
And here I was going to nominate you for the Yamaha SR 500 swingarm pivot bolt removal club. Not exactly sure what to do since it was semi-selfimposed. What a kick in the nads that was.
For anyone curious, the SR has a bolt that passes through a free floating sleeve that is notorious for seizing and is effectively sealed against penetrating oils. Absolute nightmare.
Paul, I am LOVING this series. I have a TR25W and a BSA 250 I tinker with, and seeing all you're doing here sure is inspiring and encouraging me to do some restoration/customization. Its great to watch you work, build the tools you need, etc. Your series does an excellent job of de-mystifying "what it takes" to get the job done. Thanks very much. Cheers - Jim
Thank you Jim.
i had a full flat ground ikea chef's knife which i got chipped. i use that to loosen and remove the bearing rings from the bicycle forks. due to the thinness and smoothness of the flat grind i never had any issue with damage to the fork paint. also has a grip, a lever to remove if stuck, and a surface for sensible hammering. one less spot to start corrosion.
Rather than drilling holes and punching the bearing race off, you can take a piece of steel plate or bar (1/4â thick or so) and cut a hole slightly larger than the OD of the race. Drop it over the race and weld it to the race. Race expands from heat, weld shrinkage sucks the race towards the plate which expands it as well, and the plate provides something to pull on or tap the race off. MIG welding works well because it is fast and causes good weld shrinkage, which pulls the race away from its center.
Regarding the DFO blowing out the frame fitting in the press, if we didnât make stupid mistakes we wouldnât make any at all. We all do it on occasion. Thanks for the videos.
You have no idea how encouraging it is to see someone of your skill and expertise make a mistake like this. Itâs easy for clumsy amateurs such as me to assume that everything always goes smoothly for everybody else in the world, and our screw-ups are proof weâll never be able to build anything worthwhile.
Thanks Peter. Great comment! We all make mistakes, no exceptions. Learn from your mistakes and never give up.
Youâre an inspiration Paul!
Thank you Sebastien :)
Hello Mr. Paul,
Do you know an amazing motorcycle builder by the name of Allen Millyard?
Your amazing videos and Mr. Allens brought back my love for motorcycles!
I've never met Allen Millyard, but I do watch his videos.
Paul, I feel your pain! If it had been me I would have woven a tapestry of profanity that would still be hanging above my shop. For your viewers like myself it great to see an adult's response to setback. Indeed, your response to your setback was far and away your most important instructional moment in this video. Required viewing for sure.
And guess what? That frame is going to get fixed!
I felt for you Paul ...
There are times when we steam ahead, and for some reason, not recognise when something isn't right.
In the past, I would have simply put such an event down to 'own fault', due to lack of awareness.
However, there is another school of thought:
That the Game of Life demands endeavour, in the face of struggle, pain, and suffering ... and if a project is going too smoothly, one or more of those elements is going to hit you.
Hahah! To be honest; as I get older, I am leaning toward the latter :D
I particularly like how you had the option of repairing the split, or accept the frame with the messy welding.
Either way, the fix isn't available without more work.
Haven't we all been there :)
Best wishes, and I look forward to further updates.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, we're all making our way through life with its' many challenges. Trying to stay on track is not always easy. I'm just happy to be making videos with Mitch. That's my life right now :)
Ai, that did hurt me too... I made similar mistakes with the same sick feeling afterwards. The cure? Get over it as soon as possible. I think you'll repair the broken frame in the future as a bandaid for the remaining nagging feel... Thank you Paul for sharing all your wonderful content, human failures included. All the best, Job
Joe, I'm over it. I don't think the broken frame will get fixed. It's just easier to find a good used one.
Paul great video.warts an all.
Q is ther a part down in the outer fork legs.look wher the axel clamps are.ther might b a small bolt goin up in the lower legs.
On the 500 triumph ther was a conical seat for the moving stansion to bottom out on.i think.
Yes, the small bolt locates the bottom out cone, and also doubles as the drain plug. Thanks for watching.
Ruined a spindle in my wifeâs car that way. Measured the OD but the seam wasnât apparent. Bent the spindle and the bearing didnât move. Iâm still learning every day!
You and me both.
If you have questions check with Dick Smith at the Baron's Speed shop. he's got tons of experience. I feel for your misfortune.
I was half expecting you to mount the broken frame in a jig, build some sort of referencing jig for the piece you broke and then watch you build an improved frame with a bespoke replacement. A back up frame works too. You must be at least half a saint to keep your composure like that.
Another viewer described the situation as a "fatal disaster". Very true.
Your restraint at 24:05 was beyond admirable, or maybe some necessary editing was required to hide what we would all do in such a circumstance.
Regardless, and as you said, "Life goes on." and if anyone was capable of fixing things it is you.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching. No editing happened. I do not believe I will be fixing that frame. Used Cub frames are not that hard to find on Ebay.
There are no failures in life just learning experiences. You learned. At least you had a backup frame
Yes, thank God for the backup frame.
I have made so many parts that the designer thought that having a hole that is off center of a radius many times. I could not make it the intelligent way because it would violate the print. Different designers have different sensibilities. My rule is to keep edge margins constant around any hole.
Oh man your face actually made me sick to my stomach, I cant imagine how you felt! Ill tell you what, when the sleeve nut broke free with your custom made wrench, I actually yelled out âyesâ loud enough to get a look from the dog. We have all certainly been there, thats a sinking feeling you never forget. Like others have said, thank you for letting us all see it happen, it raises you up that much more in my book. The RCMP Officer that said no way the thief left his knife behind, was he a rookie??? Ive been doing that job for 33 and counting years, and I have seen things like that happen more times than I can remember!
I have no idea if that officer was a rookie. I did realize I had made an assumption think it was Spencer's knife, but I guess I was correct. Anyway, we had a good outcome, and I believe Slencer learned a lesson. Thanks for commenting.
Did a headstock bearing job on a F800 BWM the other week. I was pleasantly surprised to find 2 small holes on the bottom yoke for the removal of the bearing race! Just like your solution
Excellent!
G'day Paul. You should be able to take the upper fork tubes to a hydraulic engineering service for hard chroming, grinding, & maybe straightening. They might even be able to supply wiper seals, nuts etc. These parts are very similar to hydraulic ram rods. I used such a service when I started restoring my KH250 many years ago. The shop I used had never repaired motorcycle forks before, but were so impressed with the results that the gave me the work for free, & used it as a lesson for future work.
Andrew
Yes, I used to work in a shop that did grinding and sent things out for hard chroming, so I am familiar with the process. I have ordered a brand new set of fork stanchions from the UK so that is the best fix. Total price with shipping is $155 so no way can you grind and chrome (and grind...) for that price.
@@paulbrodie That's a far better choice.
Paul, I'm so sorry about the frame, I know all too well that sickening feeling in the pit of the stomach when I realize I've made an unrecoverable error. On the chassis I'm currently building, I welded up the rear cradle (swingarm pivot, rear motor mounts) mirrored. That was bad. I redesigned it slightly, re-made the parts, then discovered when test fitting that one of the motor mounts was welded in slightly crooked, and I couldn't get the motor mount bolts in. That was bad too. Almost a dozen machined parts in each ruined assembly.
On another topic, it's interesting watching other people work. I've always worked alone, and I'm self-taught. It's fabulous to watch you use *exactly* the same motions on some tools, for instance, the belt sander in this episode. Might as well have been watching myself. It's comforting.
Last thought... I have a toolbox drawer full of shop-made tools, and about half of them are unlabeled. I wish I'd have pulled out the vibratory pen or stamp set and just put some kind of clue as to what they are...
OH, and always.... thank you (and Mitch) for the video.
Thank you Alan. Yes, sometimes I find an old fixture from years gone by and cannot remember what it was for. Sometimes they have felt pen markings on them and I still can't remember...
I just had one yesterday. I was parting a steering stem cup from a 3" bar, and my parting blade jammed, ripping the bar out of my 3 jaw chuck. Destroyed the chuck! So strange... the bar is 1018, and was turning SO nicely, then BLAM! I notice that you never part off. I guess I know why.
@@Alanbataar 1018 is terrible to machine. Almost everything else machines better. I would part off aluminum, in some circumstances, but never 1018. Too much can go wrong. Sorry to hear about your chuck!
Pretty sure the crappy "welding" was the "solution" to loose after market "crash bars" that were a must in the early 60's. Great work and a brilliant temperament I am a hammer thrower!
Well done for keeping your cool on camera, it couldn't have been easy.
Thanks Tony. Just another day in the shop..
the porch pirates stole one of my packages recently, i was expecting a few different packages at the time, it's lucky they got the package full of belt sander belts and not the package that contained a vintage Australian made Waldown tool post grinder for my lathe.
Maybe if you put out a sign they will bring it back?
You are so talented I'm 65 and I wish I had an eighth of your talented if I've been doing it there been a lot more than one mistake I know you could have fixed it as talented as you are I would have loved to see how you fix that problem like that because I have problems like that all the time it's so interesting seeing a true Craftsman at work happy Fourth of July from for me to you and yours!!!!
Thank you Keith.. I did fix that frame, and that is another video you can find on our channel. I hope you had a good Fourth of July too!
Paul I remember replacing some bantam fork bushings back in the day. Very similar to those. I think you should treat it to some new legs or perhaps turn up some new ones if the steel isn't anything special (bet it isnt)
I bought brand new fork stanchions out of the UK... Happy Days!
You might consider adding a 10k psi single stage, self-contained hand pump to your press. Much easier to control and less likely to damage your work as you did. The ram can still be powered and rapidly advanced to the work. You can isolate the hand pump with a hydraulic rated ball valve when not in use.
As for the Cub H/W forks, look up specs for pre -1968 500/650 forks. They are basically identical except for the tube lengths.
Thanks for the tips.
Paul, "hindsight is a great teacher!" When you operate your hydraulic press, you should employ a "pressure gauge" with a "table of pressures" so that you know right away when you're seeing forces that are above standard "press fits" or interference fits. You can photo copy a page or two on the various pages from the "Machinery Handbook" that will let you know you're beyond the pressure needed to move an interference fit, and give you "pause" to re-investigate your assumptions. "Measure twice - cut once approach". Just passing along a tip. Cheers.
Yes, having a big pressure gauge in Tons is definitely on my list.
Paul, thanks for sharing your mistakes
Thanks Paul. Hopefully there won't be too many more!
Commiserations, those swing arm pins can be very tight, sometimes my 12 ton Chinese hydraulic press has a job to shift them. Glad to see the British Record vice in use. I have those heavyweight forks too on a D14 and a B175 Bantam, probably fitted to the Bantam Cub also, on a Bantam frame that uses the Cub engine. I'm interested to see how you plan to thin the forks down only in the worn area, but you won't get the newly narrower made bushes over the unmachined thicker part? New stanchions or machine them all the way along?
Yes I have ordered new fork stanchions. That was the best / easiest way.
Ah boy Paul, a bit of a harsh reminder that we're never too old to make mistakes and learn something, the key is you learned something. Looking at the frames I'm wondering why you don't weld/reem/fix the sleeve back and use that frame as it looks in way better condition to the other one?
Really wish that modern suspension forks were that easy to remove the bushings, thanks for letting us take a look into your fork. If it were me, instead of sanding/polishing the old stanchions down and just making new, smaller ID bushings, I'd be looking for a place to nickle/chrome coat or some such finish the old stanchions so they really last.
I'm using my second frame. It's fine after I ground off the sidecar mounts that someone had welded on. I have also ordered brand new fork stanchions and bushings from Greystone in the UK. That's the best and cheapest solution.
It's a pity you couldn't find someone to electro-coat them for you for a reasonable price instead of just binning them.
Weld up the pits, then turn - grind/lap to .002 under, then hard-Chrome and finish-lap to appropriate size and finish?
@@dennisyoung4631 You are talking about a LOT of work on old fork tubes. No thanks.
@@paulbrodie I restored a BSA Bantam D5 years ago. It had badly pitted chrome on the lower stanchions (they are "upside down" forks on those bikes and they also run in oil seals) so I looked into having them machined and hard chromed. It would have been a lot more expensive than new, so I bought new.
Oops indeed!
Nice story at the intro...glad the fella saw sense, we all make dumb mistakes sometimes eh?
As to the forks....are you planning on getting them chromed/machined back to original OD after removing the rust?
Got that done to some Kawa Z650 forks many moons ago by a specialist here in the UK...wasn't very expensive from memory
Keep up the good work lad!
(btw I worked at Westpoint Cycles on W10th when I lived in Vancouver for 18 months!...found a Brodie Holeshot frame in the basement that I still have...)
I purchased new fork stanchions off Ebay. It was the best solution. I know Westpoint Cycles. I grew up in that area: 19th and Wallace.
No damage whatsoever - except for the two holes...LOL
The story ni the beginning is the most Canadian thing I've ever heard.
Yes, quite a few people were amazed that I pulled off the swap!
I found a tool for removing crown races the other day. Will send a link if I can locate it.
Anybody messing with getting a lower bearing race off a set of yokes, Paul's method works fine until you get to modern stuff (particularly if alloy bottom yoke) and want to switch to taper rollers. Stick welder works a treat, stick the rod yo the bearing cup and the heat will expand it,, also gives you something to pull on.
I did a set today and went nasty 'cause no stick welder. Use a cutting disc into them on an angle grinder. Then smack a chisel in there to knock lumps of the brittle bearing steel. It'll move quicker than you might imagine with the heat and vibration getting it away from any corrosion.
Being British I was going to mention 'we' call it a bottom yoke and lower bearing but as you already posted that I don't need to ;o)
I would like to see a repair of that frameđ
Hint: don't hold your breath.
Having learned the machine trades in the Detroit area when you made a mistake on the job, you were required to fix it. After learning the trade and relocating to California, the culture there was if you made a mistake they always had some one else fix it, because you proved that you could never fix it yourself.
We've always known that California culture was different, especially back in those days. Thanks for watching.
Ouch. Hope you can finesse the casting back into some serviceable shape with a collar around the broken area, brazed to the crack and reestablish a good working relationship. Wear in the swingarm bushing is conducive to "speed wobbles". Had a used BSA Golden Flash out for a test drive back in the day and went into a horrible wobble at about 40mph.
Second frame is painted and ready for assembly :)
I'm sure you will fix that frame. To remove the fork nuts I use a Serflex clamp correctly tightened and a strap wrench. I did it several times on Kawasaki triples forks without any damage to the chrome of the nut.
Bruno, would you believe I still have no plans to fix that frame, and time is going by...
@@paulbrodie May be close the crack by welding then rim the bore to insert a new steel bushing. I assume it will be difficult to find a reference for the riming.
I respect those who share the boo boos. Shows the highest level of integrity. Nice job, Paul. PS by the way how do we "buy" you coffees? Do you have an address or PO box we can ship to? What type do you like????
Thank you Shawn. Easiest way to buy us coffees is to click on the link found under the video in the description. One viewer did actually mail us coffee but he quickly realized how expensive shipping was!
After seeing this video I was highly motivated to go out and make my own mistake.
Had to turn down a 28mm steering stem crownrace surface to 27mm. Unknowingly I bumped into the transverse wheel in the last stage and overshot my mark by 0.15mm turning a .05 oversize into .10 undersize.
The upside is that I get to make an entirely new one and eliminate all the flaws of the original. The downside is that I'll have to learn all of it as I go.
I like it that you were highly motivated. We all make mistakes. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@paulbrodie I consider it an act of rebellion in the face of my inner critic. It's very liberating to finally recognise mistakes as opportunities for learning.
Thanks for taking the time to read and respond, and for the wonderful videos Paul!
When I was a kid a friend of mine broke into the local shop, guess what he left behind? The pocket knife that his mother had his full name engraved on for his birthday.
I guess he learned a lesson too.
nice video Paul, it seems you are human too, don't worry about the mistake, every body makes it :)
My worst mistake (for today) was getting up this morning! :-@ OUCH! Some power in your Three Tonne press. To quote Our Tommy Cooper (who died on stage of a heart attack)... "Just like that"! - and only one little click on the soundtrack!
You referenced a couple of times, John Haynes of Haynes Manuals? Well, he died during the week and is now upstairs tinkering with whatever - probably his first ever project at age 16, converting an Austin 7 saloon into an aluminium bodied sports car. Same engine, same brakes but a lot lighter. He had a lot of interest shown in his new creation so wrote it up and sold copies of the "how to" instructions through a 2-line ad. in one of the then motoring magazines/journals. This was his way into workshop manuals and the rest, as they say... He also created the Haynes Museum of Motoring down at Sparkford, near Yeovil, County of Somersetshire (also, home of Westland Helicopters & apparently, a football (soccer) team??). Presently, as it is a large venue, one can get one's Covid jabs done there too and all for free! The BBC Radio Four programme (not a "show" - a show has music, dancing and singing) entitled 'Last Word' did a very nice obituary to John on last Sunday's broadcast. This can (at least in Jolly Olde England) be replayed via the BBC Sounds application on-line application (app.). From the Austin 7 to the tuned Austin 'Cooper' Mini - "warrer" life!
My arbor press is 3 ton, but my hydraulic press is 12-15 tons, a lot of difference. Your comments were fun to read. Thanks for that :)
sorry for the frame... but I think you could save it by setting it on the mill using the non split side to locate the center, bore the "tube" part of that casting then braze a tube with the right OD and ID in place. would be just as good as new.
Easier to buy a good used frame off Ebay.
@@paulbrodie sad... :(
@@MrLeoBL Sad but true.
I feel your pain over that error. Before you started I was wishing I could have suggest blasting the paint off with walnut shells instead of that nasty invasive grit. You could probably do that without removing the swing arm. A bit of a cheat, but the bushes were in such good shape.
Anyway, as the bishop said to the judge, we are where we areâŠ! In my case, Iâm reflecting upon the fact that those frames are the same age as I am, not sure which is in the best condition. đ§đ
It would be very hard to paint the frame with the swingarm still attached. I bead blast, so the grit would have found its' way into the bushings. Live and Learn.
@@paulbrodie True. I did think that you were using walnut shells. That grit is nasty. Glad to see youâve solved it.
@@G58 Walnut shells are less abrasive than glass bead...
For worst mistake comparisons you're not going to make the Hall of Frame. You may have an opportunity to make improvements. The pivot could move towards the countershaft with the chain tension plus and I'm wondering if there may be a little geometry improvement available too without messing with the overall look.
Maybe the regulations would prevent what I'm thinking is possible.
Another great video, thanks.
Thank you RJM. I don't believe I will be fixing that frame.
Waiting for my Brodie âItâs Milling Timeâ T-shirt!
Iâll wear it when Iâm measuring and cutting in my shop - Iâll be impervious to my weak minded efforts wearing this garment!
Currently working on a new T-shirt design: "That's a Good Fit!" Thanks for watching.
I have a frame if you need it..if memory serves it is very clean. @paul brodie also new bushings and fork tubes probably cost less than your labor and materials, unless you want to do it for the entertainment
Yes, I have already ordered new fork tubes (stanchions!) and bushings. That was the best way to go. Thanks for the offer of a frame. Not right now, but I will keep it in mind.
At least that frame was damaged by the right man. A lot of people would scrap it due to not having the skills or knowledge to fix it. We all cock up. Itâs how we deal with it that matters.
Very True.
You can send the forks down to race tech to get a DLC coating on those forks and make them more resistant to corrosion
I bought brand new fork stanchions from the UK. That was the easiest and cheapest solution.
i like your vids especialy the Cyclone sory about the cofie ttfn&ty
Thanks Phil. We did a few videos on the Excelsior, nothing on the Cyclone....
Hey Paul, bummer about the frame damage but live and learn is the order of the day. You could perhaps âcut and shutâ the undamaged swing arm section from the less desirable frame into the better frame? As to the fork tubes I would look at getting some hard chromed tubing of that same diameter and make new tubes or if that is too hard then have the original tubes hard chromed and center ground back to size as that way you will never have to worry about corrosion pitting the tubes into the future.
Thanks Steve. I bought new fork stanchions out of the UK. Good price too. That frame and swingarm are toast. RIP.
While not historically correct it seems like hard chroming the fork tubes would be a much better option and there is a local solution from British Hydraulics on Braid street in New Westminster. As far as that frame goes, could you not use the spare frame for "parts" and remove the pivot casting to use on your original?
The grinding plating and regrinding would be a huge bill. Happy to get brand new out of the UK for $155 including shipping. Deal! That frame is not worth fixing. Good used Cub frames are not hard to find on Ebay. Thanks for commenting.