DIY Bowden Drive for 3D Printers
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- Print yourself this Bowden Drive system for your 3D Printer!
Included as part of the HyperCube 3D Printer set, and is compatible with any 3D Printer.
A very special thank you to my Patrons:
► / tech2c
Download the HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC from Thingiverse:
►www.thingivers...
Download the Spiral Chess Set from Thingiverse:
►www.thingivers...
Download the Optical Illusion Vase from Thingiverse:
►www.thingivers...
PTFE Push Fit connector:
►www.banggood.c...
Knurled Drive Gear:
►www.banggood.c...
Buy cheap 3D Printer kits and parts from Banggood:
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Amazon 3D Printers and Parts:
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Oh wow so it's possible to print elastics with Bowden Drive. Great stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Love the way you say "mount".Sounds like "meownt" 😺
This is a public service, above and beyond the squall of doody.
It's very generous of you to put the STL files on Thingiverse. Most would have Gummed the Road for a dollar or two.
Great solution to printing flexibles with a bone tube! What a great design! Thanks so much.
Just fitted this to my Ender 3 as the arm cracked (as expected) on the Creality feeder. I have a metal replacement on order but may leave this one on as it is working much better than the original. Thanks for the info and video.
did you have to modify the design at alll?
Another great input from Tech2C the father of the Hypercube printer. Incredible professionnalism in project, presentation, accuracy and making. Thank you so much. On behalf of many other i'm sure: we missed you.
You are too kind! Cheers!
Thank you very much for this improvement.. because of you I am building two Hypercubes. Thumbs up!
Oh, wow great work! Thank you!
I can see some (probably minor) improvements on the knob-screw-unit so it won't come out completely (something to lose or let go off). Also I'd design the Teflon tube-tunnel contiguous, have one long Teflon tube which gets gnabbed out in the middle a top and bottom bite to have an even tighter guide of the filament. Not sure of increase in terms of efficiency but I'd give it a try.
Well done! I usually like the improvements you come up with, great ideas!
Hey thanks for the comment! Yeah the knob could get lost, so you could use a longer screw to allow the idler arm to swing out more without the knob fully unscrewed from the nut in the motor mount. I've allowed for upto 15mm screw length for this. Regarding the teflon tube, I also thought about using a single peice and nipping it to allow the gear and idler to grab the filament on either side. It wouldn't leave much teflon tube in the middle to support itself though.
Nice video and awesome design mate! Love it. Cheers!
Wow, how long time ago I was waiting for some new content from you, and again, a masterpiece came! Thanks!
Your patience has paid off, lol :)
Really like that redesign!
A nice design mate! I do have some suggestions. Not everyone can print in harder plastics like abs, most will print this design in a form of PLA. Although binding will occur less, there is a good chance that the flexible filament will rub on the chamfered entry points near your gnurled gear. When it does this, the filament will slowly erode that area and the filament may still fail, ive seen a few designs where they cut 45° angles on each side of a Bowden tube, so that the Bowden tube sits almost 2mm away from the extruder gear and bearing. PTFE tubing will wear a lot less than those plastic ends will. Regardless, you've solved many issues that extruders have when it comes to printing flexible/exotic filaments, I really appreciate that. It's intelligently designed. Cheers*
Thanks for your comment! Whilst I've only had this design running on my 2 printers for a week, it's far too short a time to see any wear. The grey and blue bowden set I showed was printed in PLA, whilst the white bowden set is PETG. They both seem to function the same in regards to performance. My older bowden set I've had for 2 years and it doesn't show signs of wear, albeit the gap between the filament entry/exit to the drive gear is quite large. I'll keep an eye on this and redesign as needed :)
I was in the middle of Upgrading my CR10 and trying to find a new bowden solution, this looks great!
Great timing!
With a little redesign of the idler you could make it better than having to unscrew the knob when you want to change filament. There are several ways you could do it but given your design I think replacing the static knob with a tension lever rotates 90 degrees to release tension then back to restore it. A secondary screw could be used to do a fine adjust the tension level. I'm thinking something like a quick release used on bicycle seats.
Now that is a great idea! Thank you.
@@Tech2C I was looking at that aspect of the design as well, if you printed the gate that holds the bearing with longer front end that you could use as a lever, and used a longer nut to hold it in place, then used a spring to hold tension you'd have the same quick release idea without so much redesign.
Your prints are near perfect. Very impressive sir.
Many thanks for all your videos.
You can be proud for all your work.
Big thanks!
Flexible filament with a Bowden? Color me impressed.
I changed both my hypercubes to directdrive 9 months ago without any decrease in print quality related to heavier carriage. I've used prusa mk2 and mk3s extruders and only disadvantage is slightly smaller print area in cube with mk3 extruder due to strange angled position of cooling fan. I'm not printing above 80mm/s when heavier carriage might be an issue but at 60 it is just perfect and has no issues whatsoever with retractions or flexible filaments. I honestly believe that there is no reason to go for bowden if you have sturdy frame and no axis with only one point of fixiation (as cetus, smaller snapmaker or other small cheap printers). In anything sturdier than anet a8/ender3 direct drive is just plain better for high quality prints and it is as easy for tool changing (and if you think about milling with printer you do need printer capable of moving heavy X carriage).
The great thing about this hobby is we can mix and match so many aspects of it! That's great you've had success with direct drive on your Hypercubes! I really like the simplicity of Bowden, or should I say the split in 2 drive system that bowden provides. I may investigate direct drive sometime soon, especially as the weight of modern direct drive systems has reduced considerably since I used it last. Cheers :)
You could shorten up your tube by mounting the extruder at the center of either the X or Y axis instead of at the corner.
I use Capricorn tubing it works fantastic, a lot faster than redoing the whole system
What i took from this:
1. You are a master of engineering.
2. Aurarum needs to sell their filament to the rest of the world.
what happens if we use 2 motor cloned and 2 of this extruder? may be it is work like omg extruders. i am gonna try... thanks man, you shared this 5 years before now and its useful still... thanks
Keep up great work! Greeting from Israel.
nice clean prints well done
so...its your standard single drive gear extruder with flat idler gear, like countless other designs on the market and available on 3d printing design websites.
Would you say mobius 3 would be better for flexibiles? Say higher speed than 20 mms?
@@Alikapups flexibles need to be printed slow with bowden setups no matter what, but the 4:1 gearing, fully captive filament path, and use of dual drive bondtech gears will offer much better improvements with those filaments.
Great Work .. i have made hypercube like yours :) thanks for sharing ;)
Very Nice, thanks for all the details. Didn't realize this was possible with a bowden system... with this is there any advantage having direct drive ? Thanks
wow. just looking at that quality....
nice, dual bowden fittign could be great for things like Nylon or PC ,keep those in a dry box and just bowden straight out of the box to the extruder to the hotend
Nice design, but the spring force from bending plastic decreases with the time and heat quite quickly.
Normally I'd agree, but I've been using a printed bowden drive in PETG for over 2 years without issue and no spring. Don't print this in PLA and you'll be fine.
@@Tech2C Ok. then that is a proven design. My PETG plastically deforms under constant force, not as much as PLA though. For example my PETG as coffee bag clip, just permanently deformed only after a couple of days. I blame my cheap PETG :)
Great design, I can't wait to try it out!
Have you thought about trying a remote direct drive system using something like those flex shafts for rotary tools? You can find them under $20 on amazon, at least here in freedom land, so it wouldn’t cost a lot to experiment with. Might need to run a gear train to do higher rpm and lower torque to make up for slop in the flex shaft, but it shouldn’t add too much weight to the print head.
hi and thanks for this great design, can you please tell us where can we find this Knurled Drive Gear. thanks
I'm glad to see another improvement.
I personally am getting really sick of dealing with the bowden system on my Hypercube Misfit in general. I built it way too big for bowden systems to be as reliable as I'd like, especially with retraction. I still get decent prints, but I'm seriously interested in switching to the Zesty Nimble extruder, which is based out of Austrailia, as it has the benefits of direct drive systems while having the low weight of a bowden.
Capricorn tubing helps a little bit, but when dealing with 700+ mm bowden length, it is a pain.
700mm tube length, that is quite a distance. I agree if a long bowden system is causing grief then switch to direct drive or equivalent. Alternatively you could try 3mm filament, maybe it fares better with long bowden tubes?
@@Tech2C I'd rather stick to 1.75mm. It's managable, and actually I have a full meter of capricorn tubing on right now because I was too lazy to trim it after testing as a proof of concept.
I just think this other extruder system would be superior in general for a corexy system. I highly advise to check it out if you get a chance. It is pretty expensive, though.
@@GregAtlas I've been waiting since MRRF for the nimble I ordered to arrive. (patience is a virtue) they got far more response to the system then their wildest dreams. I think this is a solution to many of the bowden system design flaws.
I'm wondering if the idler-arm would be better printed out of nylon than out of something like PLA.
Amazing piece
I just wonder. Typical PTF tube which are used in bowden extruders are 4mm / 2mm. Do they make a smaller one for example 3mm / 1,8mm? it will be nice to have a smaller internal diameter to match 1,75 filament.
You can buy cheap bondtech dual gear clones from China nowadays (around $5), you might want to have a look at them. They can grip the filament way stronger as they do it from both sides.
Brilliantly simple & direct. This engineering should be adopted elsewhere - and you should get paid for that.
Wonder if you can do an in-depth video on the Ender 3 and the BLTOUCH. I’m having trouble understanding how It works and the details around Z Probe offsetting. I’m thinking of going back to my Z endstop because I can’t get a good first layer anymore
This is so cool! Thanks!
this could be better, with another materials, please check IGUS material, and for the bearing i recommend to you put a engine to get better traction, your videos are awesome by the way, have a nice day
Good job!
Its just weird to see you say anything nice Mr Negative!
Can we have the fusion design files?
I have an anycubic i3 mega-s and it comes with an e3d titan clone. never had an issue printing flexibles ever! at 30mm/s with retractions and linear advance
but again my titan would cost money for someone else (mine came with the printer)
Is it possible to put secind extruder on the hypercube 3d printer??
Is this an upgrade to the Hypercube or would you ever need the old Bowden drive?
Shouldn't need the old one for anything. This new one should work as well and as you've seen better than the old one so there's no reason to have the old one.
Has anyone used this on an Ender 3? I tried it but it pushes the filament the wrong way. And I don't want to mess with reversing wires....
The link for the Knurled Drive Gear is the same link as the PTFE push fitting
Fixed.
Nice design
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
love the deign...
could this work on a creality cr 10
If you can mount it to your frame then it should work great!
Where can we get files for this?
Awesome video! Looks like the knurled drive gear is a smaller diameter than my stock CR10 gear. Is it necessary to make changes in the firmware or slicer settings?
All you would have to do is unhook the bowden tube from your hot end fitting, cut the filament flush with the end of the tube and then extrude 100mm's of filament and then adjust your settings from there. If it's + or - 100mm's you can just measure it and than subtract or add to get your 100mm total again. So If you do the same process before you make any changes and your printer is already printing good enough for what you do. Let's say you extract 100 mm's and 95 mm's comes out of the old bowden extruder, well when you switch to the new one and you extrude 100mm's and 95mm's comes out, leave it imo. If your printer was able to print some what decently (lol obviously not cause you're upgrading it) before and was printing okay and you don't want to mess with trying to figure out proper ratio and formula or just don't want to do the math than don't change it. Let it be!😂 But if you want to get it perfect!! And make it flawless, then obviously when you extrude 100mm's you get 100mm's right at the tip of the bowden tube. Hope this helps! Sorry for the long story! Probably won't even read this 😂 ✌️lol
@@luckylarz4269 nope, nobody's going to read this far through replys
what buildpalte are you use? is that acrylic?
Have anyone used this extruder on a ender 3 ?
Just finished printing this, just waiting on the knurled drive gear to arrive. What steps per mm did you come up with for this extruder?
135
Hello @Tech2C i made a build of the hypercube, im using steel rods for the x carriage, but im having a lot of vibrations in the Bed, when doing an infill the bed moves up & down quite a lot. Any tips on how to reduce this vibrations? should i just make the prints slower? tight the belts? any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks! :)
If you're using steel rods on the X axis, then reduce your jerk speed in Marlin to 10mm/s or lower. If your steel rods are 10mm in diameter, then switch to 8mm instead to save weight. You can find the 8mm XY_Joiner on my Hypercube Thingiverse page. Links in description of this video.
Dude the stl file (Bowden_Motor_v1.1) is corrupted can u give another link please
Can I build the HyperCube as my 1st 3D printer or do you recommend starting off with a kit?
I feel like once you mess around and got to know an already made 3d printer
Then you'd have the experience and knowledge to make one from scratch
Personally my kit is on its way🙋♂️
Anyone can tell me the # ref. or size for the bearing? Is it F624zz? Thanks.
As usual, always great job. I have problem slicing "BOWDEN MOTOR" file using Simplyfy3D software, the result is very bad. Can you re-build using different setting ?
It works fine in Slic3r and Cura. Load the STL into either of those and save as a STL again. See if that fixes Simplyfy3D.
@@Tech2C I just test open using latest Cura 4.1.0 and export to STL, and I open with Simplify3D, the result is still the same.
I try to fix it using netfab, no different. it seems "self-intersecting surface" problem
@Tech2C how long is you ptfe tube ?
About 60cm
where do we get these files? i must have missed it somewhere
It's the extruder on the hypercube set on thingiverse
One question, though: Do you have an idea about the max Teflon tube length viable with your new drive?
No idea. You would have to trial and error with each filament you intended to use for retract ability. Mine is 50cm long.
@@Tech2C Thank you. Ok, then 50cm is working for you. I'm curious about the upper limit now. :)
Sometimes seasoning (lubricating) the tube when you go beyond 300mm long will solve dragging issues
Interesant
Also required to disable retraction
where can I get thy stl?
Great design, but I can't find it on Thigiverse
Duh, found it! thanks again
@@rwb1uk hello sir, may I know where is it?
Link ?
file link
This is how I did it, works a treat: www.thingiverse.com/make:478882
I suggest using a printed compression fitting to hold the bowden tube, it does not cut in to the tube and allow it to move a bit on retraction like the common hydraulic/pneumatic fittings.
Did you ever try and reprint the ninja flex?
I don't have any left.
@@Tech2C Darn, I got mine about a year+ ago and had very little experience with printing and it came (from Amazon) in an unsealed box. So the prints look a lot like yours but i think mine was due mostly to moisture.
That flexibility in plastic will wear out and you will loose that constant pressure.
Was thinking the same thing. Otherwise it's very nice.
Not if it's PET-G.. knowing Tech2C it probably is ;)
That's interesting. The grey and blue bowden I showed is PLA, whilst the white bowden I attached and am printing with is PETG. My older bowden system printed in PETG didn't lose its pressure from the idler, and I've been using that for over 2 years. That's why I chose to continue this method.
@@Tech2C Obviously people should print every part twice to have a backup when something breaks. At least 'm doing that. Printing it in PLA, have a second one in PLA prepared, and if the first one breaks, I will mount the second and print it in PETG.
Maybe you could modify the extruder to integrate a coupling similar to the coupling by derWaldschrat on thingiverse
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3455092
Really nice printing by the way.
due to my poor hearing and the accent, could someone please repeat the bearing number?
623 (flange) bearing
Looks like a most excellent design Sir. I look forward to making one for myself. Thank you. WALKSONSUN on Thingiverse.
_Fuckin' get that to focus!_
*Demonitized!* But also, very AvE-like. _Focus, you fuck!_