ARRMA's Differentials - FULL UPGRADE BREAKDOWN - Extreme Kraton & 6s Big Rock - Whats new?
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- čas přidán 8. 12. 2023
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2:13 intro
3:13 Removing Rear differential
5:28 Difference between V4/V5 & EXB Diffs
10:56 Slip plates, how they work, are they needed?
17:06 Limited slip plates, diff setup
22:03 Open diff setup, Adding the shim kit
29:13 Re-assembling the Rig
38:16 Final Thoughts
Diff cup holders
/ @skhobbiesaz
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Arrma 6s Diff shim Kit
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Looking for EXB diffs??
Arrma EXB Diffs
Front/Rear Diff Set GP4 5mm 29mm Open Diff Case 80K | ARRMA (arrma-rc.com) 74.99
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Limited Slip Center Diff Set 50T 100k | ARRMA (arrma-rc.com) 74.99
amzn.to/3JDylkz
Dont forget about Jennys RC... if they have the goods in stock.
looks like right if you spent only 30 bucks extra... you can get both the diff and the aluminum case
Arrma KRATON 6s EXB - F/R DIFFERENTIAL (alum case, input gears, bearin - Jennys RC LLC
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I’ve destroyed multiple differentials on my Outcast 6 BLX V3 because of the wrong setup. As a Ukrainian citizen, I need to order all the parts from the States, which makes the price of the wrong setup even bigger.
You are the brightest Arrma tips and tricks blogger on CZcams. I tell some things from your video here in Ukraine and people who have done the hobby for many years don't understand me because of not digging into details like you do. Respect!
Right on bro . 🙏 and stay safe over there .
2nd comment. Tbh, silicone is a sub-par lubricant for metal. Especially gears. I'm thinking about using a combination of Lucas synthetic engine oil stabilizer with a synthetic gear oil in the EXB aluminum diff cups using the LSD plates. The silicone O-Rings can chemically handle it. Natural rubber couldn't. Teflon based shock seal grease (aka green slime) would be fine for the O-Rings, and apply some Lucas Red&Tacky in the output tubes where the out-drives rotate with cotton swab. Or just more Teflon grease. As for Ring & pinion/input gears, I have a black, grade 3 open gear grease with moly. If you want more water resistance, I would just go with some blue Dynamite brand lithium based marine grease. It's thicker and more robust than many other calcium thickened marine formulas. Plus, it's compatible with all other lithium grease out there.
Super effective and informative technical video. My English is not perfect but as you take the time to break down the sequences and as you speak calmly with precise words I can easily understand your explanations. thank you, it’s really great. very happy to see a video from an enthusiast who loves his machines and respects the work of the designers by not butchering them in a stupid way. 👏👍
Thanks! 🤜🤛
I appreciate your comment
Glad it was helpfull
Awesome video, thanks so much for sharing all this knowledge with the community!
Recently got the Kraton 6s BLX v5 and it’s huge , lol . I ll have to get used to it .
Great videos 😊 really well filmed and not rushed, very helpful 👍Cheers
Glad it was helpful!
Absolutely amazing video. I've learned so much. Thank you sir.
Thanks
I use marine outboard lower unit gear oil, so far working great.
This was a Great video break down on everything EXB differentials. Thanks man, great job!!!!
Thanks!
Thanks for the look bro 👊😎
I think they RCs should be put together with torx head screws to begin with as they have more teeth to grip with and not as prone to stripping. I've had to use torx bits to get stripped screws out by tapping one a tad bigger than the hex into the head and able to them with pressure and a socket set to come out. But it's hard to find all the sizes you need. 🤔
Nice video brother!… can’t wait for the next jump challenges!🤜🤛
Thanks for making this vid . Well done for someone like myself with limited knowledge to understand and become proficient in repairing or upgrading .
Glad it was helpful!
Yes! The Kraton 6s is a beast.
Check out my latest vid for info on challenges I host each year. Win prizes
Ok , thanks . I ordered them stiffer springs and 60 wt . You know , something to do at night while watching tv . I thought disassembly looked confusing and difficult at first but after watching vids and learning how they go together it’s getting a lot easier . I’m into home remodeling so I always say that things can come apart easy but getting it back together can be a lot harder . I can see why people go through their whole vehicle when they get it . Changing fluids and adding aftermarket stuff . I think my next upgrade might be the red alum front and rear brace and them aluminum knuckles . I think it’s m3 and m4 shims. There was a bag of 4 shims . I think it’s for the differentials
Great video, bro!
Thanks!
Happy to help
Great info on the exb diffs looking forward to the jump challenges in the future I will have to participate this time around
Nice!!! Looking fwd to seeing you
Great video 👍
Thanks Nate!!
Great video Randy👊🏻💪🏻😎
Thanks 👍
i loved the way it drove with the lsd plates however i had issue with them all, put spacers in haven't had an issue in over a year, the way it drove with the plates at speed with turns did feel magical at first though i gotta say it was crazy awesome feeling, upvoted!!
Interesting… Thanks for watching brother
I just looked at the new Kraton EXB 2.0 manual and they're now using 80K CST front and rear in their open diffs. That's a huge difference. I'll probably go closer to 20K like you did.
Great video. Thanks for doing it. I really wish Arrma would release a Typhon 6S EXB (maybe even an XL) or at least offer an appropriately geared ring and pinion so I can run the 29mm EXB diffs in my Typhon. Even if the extra durability and LSD plates aren't needed in my buggy I just don't want to have to keep different parts on hand. I can still accomplish the same final drive ratio with a Vitavon center diff spur but don't really want to.
Great video. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the spider gears out of my exb differential
Nicely explained. I replaced the outdrive pins (P/N 713033) with Mugen Seiki units (MUGH0274) as the Arrma units have a bad rap for being poorly manufactured. Just an FYI for ya :)
Merci ! thanks for this perfect video.
Appreciate ya…thx brother
Guess I have to get my Keaton ready for next summer!
Edit kraton
greta tutorial Randy
good shit cuz
🍻🍻🍻
If it's a plastic diff case, I'd put correct size driver into grom, if screw is stuck then super gently tap it a few times and repeat till you can remove screw without to much force. Percussive shock should hopefully loosen it. Don't hit hard enough to really damage anything obviously. 😂
I normally leave the pin set screw out until top is on. I have a tendency of over filling. But my way I know it's full. Ya know
grease are wonderful stuff. a little is good so a lot must be better lol actually when you cake it like you did for the crown pinion, it leads to unnecessary drag and believe it or not increased in operating temperature and can get real hot leading to grease premature breakdown plus other heat related issues.
Interesting, I’ll have to look into that. Yeah… I did use a bit more than I usually do. Lol… I guess that syringe application was too easy. Thanks for the heads up.
If you don't use the LSD plates, you're missing out. Say....(with a Kraton 6s) if you want the truck to stick to the ground and turn at full throttle without the rear end sliding around (and no wheelies) handling like an advanced All Wheel Drive system - you want the LSD setup. Use ARRMA's modular aluminum diff cups, set the plates for the front diff cup at full LSD effect and put in 500k fluid. Set the center cup at full effect LSD with 80k, and for the rear cup, set the LSD plates to minimum effect and use 80k fluid. Be sure to have the fluid between all the plates and in the holes with no air bubbles, (even behind the sun and satellite/spider gears) as this limited slip system is hydraulic.
You wouldn't believe how well it performs. The rear end will not slide out. It will handle like it's on rails. I have this setup and run my K6 on 8s with aluminum bulkheads.
Did u mean 500k center diff an 80k f&b ?? Or did you really put 500k front an 80k center a back ???
I am curious here as well. did you really do 500k front? and center is 80k? no wonder you dont wheelie... your front tires are ballooning like a mofo with all that power getting bled off on the front.
@@mikellewis2346 right? would that even work?
Just finding the channel, and this was an awesome break down and explanation of the ARRMA 6s diffs.
The only thing I could recommend is that your voice is inconsistent volume wise. I can hear you great at times and then it’s really quiet.
Thanks for the sub! And the heads up regarding my voice. I’ve been meaning to invest in a professional mic at some point. 🍻
Hey what size shim do i use on the output shaft.. i have the ones on the diff side but i could use the smaller output shaft ones
I've got a v3 6s I've had for a few years. I'm want to get back into the hobby again. Keep up the kraton videos especially ones with parts that fit the V3 6s 🙏😂
Howdy! very interesting video, but for a Kraton 6s isn't it a bit much earplugs? I know, this depends on each driving style, but it seems a bit much to me...thanks!
It’s a bit extreme, but it works, and definitely provides off the line punch and cuts massively down on ballooning.
Over time, the grub screw in the differential limited slip gear case does take out the case. I upgraded to Treal Diff gear cases in my Outcast EXB. The quality of the Treal parts is amazing. I still run mine with the full limited slip effect with 100,000 fluid. I even have tried 500,000 with good results. I can't remember what I used for the center and front? My belief after running different weight fluid is you can make it work and the effect is drastic. I do have the shim kit but, it would be interesting to see how you feel it runs with the 20K fluid? I might have to give that a go because the replacement friction surfaces are expensive (especially in Communist Canada).
did you imply that your rear diff fluid is at 100k and tried 500k in back? thats wild. Open diffs I am running 25k rear and 50k front 500k center
@@Andrew-FKF yep
The LSD have a smooth side and a non smooth finish. The smooth finish always towards the gears
As I state, right
Just ordered a BigRock 6s and it shows an open diff ARA311118 for the center
By “shows”, do you mean you physically opened it up and found the center without slip plates? What about the front and back? Did the factory accidentally ship yours different from what the manual displays? Or did they actually change What the manual says? Let me know.
It’s not uncommon for the factory to make a mistake like that
Either way, I wouldn’t fret about it. If you have all three open differentials, that’s personally better in my opinion. I’m not a fan of the slip plates in any of the differentials.
Great video! Any reason you went with the new aluminum EXB gear box/bulkhead instead of something like Hot Racing bulkheads? The HR bulkheads are almost half the price with the arrma exb version at $100. Any reason you paid more? I'm thinking of upgrading mine on my exb v1, but still deciding if the arrma version is worth it over the HR version. Thanks
I'm actually running the HR bulkheads. they are just as good. Arrma is only finally catching up to the 3rd party makers. And thier products are rarely better. On my V4 kraton, I have HR bulkheads, and on my EXB im running the Basherqueen bulk heads. But those are no longer avialable.
But ya... go with hot racing if your looking to save money. The Arrma ones are just the equevalent.
@@EastTacticsthanks!
Newbie here … regarding limited slip diffs do you use a lighter oil vs a non limited slip diff?
The limited slip plates do act as a component that increases the viscosity of the gears as it reacts to the plates, so yes “with plates” you might consider going a little lower then what you prefer/had if adding them in.
Think of the plates as adding the equivalent of 20-30k
So what are your Diff Fluid Weights you're running or found is good for certain conditions, for the Front, Rear ,& Center Diff's? Did you set the EXB Diff "LSD" discs in the least aggressive or the most aggressive setting, and how has it felt? Do you like the new added Rear LSD?
Also i have a Arrma 1/7 Fireteam and I can't seem to get a straight answer, but do the EXB parts like the front/rear braces, chassis brace from the LWB fit the Fireteam? I'm told by Arrma's website basically, that if it fits the 1/7 Mojave, it will fit the Fireteam, Infraction, etc. Which would be some nice upgrades. Plus im looking to put a pickup truck body on it.. Any ideas on a body that might fit that looks to be of that size, like a modern pickup truck/monster truck RC.
I like the Arrma BigRock body but it has some weird clip in style and it actually doesn't work too well I've seen in videos.. Great video, just what i needed for some more motivation lol! Thanks!
I’m not a fan of the limited slip plates, but am a fan of the EXB diffs. So for me I run them without the slip plates and install the shim kit.
I run 20k rear, 500 or silicone earplugs center, and 60k front.
Regarding your next questions, if you’re looking for EXB parts for your 17 scale fire team, you might be able to pull them from the Newest big rock individual part list I do know that the 1/7 scale fire team is pretty much brothers with the big rock. You might get some information from this video I dropped recently.
czcams.com/video/oi7g79uq2Zs/video.htmlsi=rt7QXRkGZmgfP-C9
@@EastTacticsim sorry if you mentioned this in the video, is the LSD plates supposed to work similar to thicker fluid? and, its thicker fluid even needed if you keep them in? New to the game here, just ordered a Big Rock 6S and wondering if going thicker on the center diff is a good idea on it, not looking for 24/7 wheelies, but i kind of want to avoid front tires ballooning too much, thanks in advance.
On the new big rock? Does the center even come with slip plates in the center? I forget
Either way, the simple answer is yes lol. Plates is similar to just going thicker. About the equivalent of 80cst, if my calculations are correct.
To get rid of ballooning in the front people jump to 500k, or silicon earplugs in the front.
If you have plates, I would just remove them and put in the shim kit in. I’m not a fan of the plates
@@EastTactics looks like it does, shares the EXB diffs with the Kraton 6S EXB, open FR, LSD in the center, i would've liked it to be closer to an EXB car on more parts..., but it is what it is, no reliable way to get the Kraton for me here (Mexico).
Very Nice ET. Yeah I think I'm gonna start using these shimes too. I'm have issues with my exb diffs. But only in the rear front works just fine. Can you actually just leave out one slip plate instead of using all 3 ? So il just use 4 ? To get less slip
No you CANT leave 1 slip plate out (on each side) this would leave a gap in the diff, and screw up the mesh inside, now if you replaced what you take out with an exact thick shim. you would be fine... but why would you want to try leave any slip plates in at all, if your not liking them. The simple solution is to remove all the slip plate on both sides and replace them with the shim kit designed to replace the exact thickness back into the diff.
@@EastTactics awesome ET. Thanks. Please send me over that shims kit part number when u have time. Can I buy that on your amzon store ?
@EastTactics so removing on lsd plate on each side ok. Leave the circle one in correct? That's the one that actually spins
@@paulrakis
Arrma 6s Diff shim Kit
amzn.to/3ywNB0i
@@paulrakis
Sorry... re read my above message, I should have put the word CANT... instead of can. (I edited it)
Hi mate. Are you sure you can run exb with old style diffs? I was thinking about it when first exb came out. And I believe someone mentioned they do have different ratios and can't be used together. Something like one spin on front with old diffs will equal to 1.2 wheel rotation on exb diff. I'm making those numbers up. Whats what I got from it years ago?
From what I researched, this is what I found.
a slight difference in pitch is unlikely to have a noticeable impact on performance or longevity.
Here's why:
Manufacturing tolerances:
Gears are manufactured with slight tolerances in their dimensions. This means that even gears with the same nominal pitch may have slightly different actual pitches.
Mesh engagement:
Gears are designed to mesh together with a certain degree of overlap. This overlap allows for some variation in pitch without causing binding or wear.
Material properties:
The materials used in gears are flexible to a certain extent. This allows the gears to conform to each other slightly, even if they have slightly different pitches.
Therefore, a slight difference in gear pitch between the EXB differential and the other differentials in your Kraton is unlikely to cause any problems. You can safely run this setup without any concerns about performance or longevity.
That said, I still reached out to Arrma and ask them questions as well. I am awaiting a response. I’m OK with being the guinea pig and will report if there are any issues, or there are any noticeable performance downsides.
Thanks for asking
OK… I just got the official reply from Arrma.
Pasting below:
Hi there,
Thanks for reaching out, yeah that should work just fine.
Best Regards,
Teddy F.
Arrma RC
@@EastTactics awesome mate. I thought it's more connected to spur gear size then the pitch.
First time watching your channel.
I’m confused @7:20 which product is “amazing”. The video shows two but u don’t identify which one is the better product. Can u elaborate?
Sorry, I know it happens quickly my apologies for that.
But you’ll notice there’s an arrow pointing to the jar right at 7:20 referencing the liquid in that jar. And then, in that exact moment, I also have an image that pops up in the top right corner, showcasing the thumbnail to another one of my videos.
I do believe a link also appears at the top right corner of the screen that is clickable to allow you to jump straight to that video. Which showcases the competition between those two substances, as to which one is better for cleanup processes, while taking apart your differentials.
Here is a link to the video
czcams.com/video/K7SV-qaxcB0/video.htmlsi=6AgGTCYwtORMmyM0
Should there be any side to side play in center diff? Do u shim that one as well?
There shouldn’t be. If there is, I would first make sure there is no damage taken to the side mounts/towers, if they’re bent, etc. They could be loose so you might re-tighten them to the chassis. if there is still slop, you may find that you didn’t properly push down the cover component all the way down. All of the towers need to pop into place into the cover piece.
If you’ve checked both of those things, and it’s still giving signs of slop… Yes, there is no problem with adding the shims in to get rid of that slop. You definitely don’t want it.
You would use the same shims that you’d use in the front and rear to clean up that side to side slop.
@@EastTactics thank you. Helped me out a lot.
Great info but why is this video only in 360p?
Probably because it’s recently uploaded, and it’s taking time for CZcams to shifted over to 4K. Give it a few hours and I’m sure it will be in 4K.
🎉👍
In the past 2 years i’ve slow down big time with the Hobby and there is what seems to be almost infinite upgrades you can do to these Arrma rigs. In 2023 the ultimate Basher seems to be a M2C Kraton!!! My v2 Typhon from 2018 has all hot racing upgrades withEXB shock towers. Does HR still do metal upgrades? And who is picking up the slack from T-Bone racing with bumpers?
Yeah HR racing is still around. Of course they’ve got a lot of aluminum upgrades. Still none of them compare to M2C. Who is still the king of upgrades and has come out with a lot of clutch pieces for a whole lineup of rigs, including Traxxas upgrades. They came close to starting to offer aluminum, bulk heads, but decided to pull the plug on that project, because Arma is now offering them. So with the new Kraton EXB extreme coming out with that feature, that’s pretty cool. But you can still pick up aluminum bulkhead from hot racing, Vitavon, and now Arrma.
As far as wing mounts, go, RPMs come out with a new variant that is pretty solid, the new Kraton 2.0 looks like it’s going to have a pretty tank wing mount, although my personal favorite is still the flexibility of the 3-D RC wing mount, but you have to do some clutch upgrades that I point out in a few of my videos to make it tops.
@@EastTactics Nice! I knew HR was still around but was wondering if they still made upgrades for Arrma considering they would lose the majority of their sales to M2C. If I remember correctly M2C may have a slipper clutch upgrade for the 3s line, or maybe that’s HR. I’m guessing within a year or so most of the 3s line will also have the 4s center diff 😊 I have a RPM wing Mount on my 6s Typhon and that goes back 4 years. This hobby is a never ending choice of upgrades and options. As far as diffs? Of course I’ve gone through a bunch of them, but not like a lot of people, and I have done some very hard bashing with big air, but I almost never land on throttle and my brakes are always set between 37.5 and 50%. Vitavon I know NOTHING about so I guess I gotta look into them. Thanks for replying!
Randy whats the part number for the shimes thanks . I don't see it
Arrma 6s Diff shim Kit
amzn.to/3ywNB0i
What’s the part number for these exb diffs?
Arrma EXB Diffs
Front/Rear Diff Set GP4 5mm 29mm Open Diff Case 80K | ARRMA (arrma-rc.com) 74.99
Limited Slip Center Diff Set 50T 100k | ARRMA (arrma-rc.com) 74.99
Dont forget about Jennys RC... if they have the goodies in stock.
looks like right now if you spent only 30 bucks extra... you can get both the diff and the aluminum case. if you dont allready have them.
Arrma KRATON 6s EXB - F/R DIFFERENTIAL (alum case, input gears, bearin - Jennys RC LLC
Will these gears fit into a ARRMA Metal Diff Case, ARA220050?
It’s very odd, I looked up the part number on Amazon. And it’s showing what looks to be the shape of the EXB differential cup.
So my first thought is yes, it looks like if you’re looking to put the new EXB differential gears inside of that, you should be good
But then I look at number two and three image of the Amazon advertisement, and it showing spider gears and shims reminiscent of the V4 variant. Which is wrong.
So… I’m not sure which image to trust
If the shape of the cut out for the red portion is as described in image one, then yes you should be good. You should be able to put the EXB differential gears inside of that cup. However, if what ends up arriving is more remnant of the V4, and not as displayed in image one. Then you’re gonna be looking at a return.
It’s annoying that the description of this product doesn’t strictly say that it’s for the EXB version.
I instead would actually recommend buying this one instead. Because it’s actually got the EXb logo on it and people in the comment section clearly show it outfitted with EXb gears.
amzn.to/4cPKAbs
What shim did you use on the input gear?
amzn.to/3GCutyN
Thank you
I can’t find the m2c/basherqueen bulkheads? Anywhere m2c or basherqueen
🤔 let me research
Thank you
All right, so it turns out that M2C decided not to continue offering this piece. More than likely due to its complexities combined with the fact that Arrma now provides it directly.
Ok thank you for looking in to it for me
Ive rebuilt my Talion's EXB rear diff 3 times now because it randomly started locking, there is no clicking or stripping sounds and no broken teeth or foreign objects inside the diff, each time after the rebuild its fine for 1 or 2 runs until it locks again, using 10k oil and only running it on 4s, i have some normal shims coming to replace the lsd shims because i have no idea what else it could be
Locking up three times? After taking it apart, you couldn’t determine where it’s locking exactly? Once removed are you grabbing both sides of the differential with your hands trying to twist it and finding its locked? Confirming it’s definitely internal?
I think what you’re doing is a good idea, getting rid of those slip plates. Let me know if it remedies the situation.
@@EastTactics yeah 3 times as in it locked and i cant even turn the wheels in opposite directions let alone turning it with my hands once the diff is out and even then i cant tell where its locking but as soon as i open the diff it turns over fine, then i clean it all out, put new oil in it and it fills totally fine for a about 2 runs
@@harlyquin
Yeah, that’s strange, perhaps a defective internal gear? Sun gear? It might be a defective cup? Perhaps after you put in the 3 screws there’s a bulge somewhere? Removing the three screws eliminates said bulge perhaps?? I don’t know.
@@EastTactics ill try the normal shims and if that dosent work its new diff time lol
@@EastTactics just letting you know, ive put normal shims in the diff and ran a few packs through it with no locking up problem, fixed
The one tool i cant do without in my rc hobby is some ball end drivers
What’s the part number for those rear rpm arms
Rear
amzn.to/3HP2ahh
Front
amzn.to/3OuHSxi
Thanks buddy! Your the man
Will this work on a Limitless ?????
Yes it shares the same diffs. You’ll want to research what is the recommended fluids to put in your setup
Fait au moin deux ans que mais sa en pratique ta raidu acheter un exb vla deux ans !!!
Courage ! Un jour tu l'auras, c'est sûr. Je te souhaite plein de bonnes choses dans ta quête d'un Kraton
3 holes are better than 2
Regarding?
Camera OD
Can i chang out my differentials in my V5 to EXB ?
Yes, you just need to make sure you change out the spiral input gear if you convert the front or the rear.