Planning the Electrical System in our Ford Transit DIY Camper Van
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Planning the electrical system of a DIY camper van seems intimidating at first, but when it's done, the electrical system just seems that much more manageable. In this episode, we show you how we are planning the electrical system of our DIY Ford Transit Camper Van.
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Here are some additional resources that you may find helpful with planning and installing your DIY Camper:
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➤DIY Camper Solar Wiring Diagrams: www.explorist....
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➤Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: • Basic Solar Parts Need...
➤How to Cut Wire: www.explorist....
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➤How to Crimp Wire: • How To Crimp Wire Lugs...
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➤How to Wire Solar Panels in Series-Parallel: • How to Wire Solar Pane...
➤How to Crimp Wire Ferrules: • How to Crimp Ferrules ...
➤How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box: www.explorist....
Fantastic tutorial Nate, thank you! This "starting from scratch" video, including the planning portion, is so rare these days! Or at least, rare to find one that is helpful. We appreciate you!
Awesome! Glad it's helpful. 🙂👍
I like your design approach. Never used Visio but I will now.
Thanks for blue and yellow tape. I’m from Ukraine and it’s nice to see this two colors. Thanks Nate!!!
I had rear exterior lights (to monitor the load of trailer or assist backing up off roads) on a previous van. (Your comment at 3:20) Best feature ever! I had them wired to either come on automatically with backup lights, with an override switch (ON or always OFF). Loved that setup, so now I add to every vehicle.
Great! Will probably do that then. 👍
I really appreciate what you all are doing. I am inspired to get out there but was afraid of how to do ANYTHING!!
A game like minecraft can be good for layout. Just choose an area of 50x50 cubes then use different block colors for the components.
You do such a great job detailing your process... it really is extraordinarily helpful to those of us who don't have the same materials or goals but can borrow from your excellent approach to the decision making 👍🏽
This is a great idea to sketch this out and print it so it can live in the van. Could come in handy for future trouble shooting.
Definitely! Especially once we start introducing relays and such. This diagram will really start coming together as we start wiring all of the branch circuits together.
Really great and thorough. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching! 🙂🙌
You two are our favorites to watch. Very clean and pro. Thorough and easy to understand. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
I discovered you with your full tutorial about DIY eletrical install that was for me the best tuto for electric system in van EVER ! And now this new serie.
Thank you so much for all these helpfull information
Can't wait to see the next one
😀
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Quality of your videos is quite professional
Hey Tom, Thanks so much! Cheers!
I've seen Vizio with Office installs but I don't think I've ever opened it. That looks really handy.
Yeah, it's SUPER nice for diagrams once you get the hang of it. It's what all of my diagrams at www.explorist.life/solarwiringdiagrams are made with.
Great video, watch this series because of getting ready to do my build which is still in the planning stage until we get our van. Never thought about just putting in connections so I can add or remove items as needed like the fridge or whole kitchen unit. I have been thinking about how to make items easy to remove. The only thing I cannot figure out are water lines and drains. I think the whole electrical box can be removeable with just a couple connections but not the heat and water system.
OMG... new here & scared after watching the spread sheet on wire sizes, amps, etc... My main build woud be a rear pull-out from within our Honda Pilot & 2nd choice a diy harbor freight travel trailer/camper; I hope both choices are simple, hahaha... OK well many thx teacher, wish me luck.
Haha, that's how it all starts...
@@EXPLORISTlife ...hi thx, watching the full tutorial now, pew, lol. Thx again.
Awesome like always! My solar build from you guys has been going strong for years!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
awesome! wish I had this when I was figuring out my electrical system.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Have links to the spreadsheet adn other sheet you made?
I'll make those available as the project progresses. I don't want to share the 'rough drafts'. Stay tuned!
Any guides or resources you recommend to better understand the calculations you did and electrical information, to better understand wire sizes and why the lengths etc are important?
Thanks a lot for sharing. Now that a fair number of electronic devices can charge via USB PD (Power Delivery) and this can go to 100W (at 20V), it would be great if you could explain if you would: go via main power (120 or 240), or use 24V battery bank and have sockets that can provide USB-PD up to 100W (not sure if such outlet exists). This could maybe be only for outlets close to the batteries?
Good details! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
You may want one or two 20 amp circuit! Reality! Never know these might be exterior terminals. To run power tools on the go
This video was talking DC Circuits. All of the AC outlets will be on 20A circuits.
Awesome Guys 🙏
Great, Thanks!! 👍
Why are you using a GND return wire? Could you not have one or more chassis bonding points and bring the return current back to the battery that way. It would lower the over all impedance of the run and then you wouldn't need heavier wire and you would lose less voltage in the wires. Only asking because I'm about to retro fit a small solar panel to my 1991 campervan.
It would be good if you showed people options for being more stealth for the shore power. Example - on a Transit underneath in the very back on the sides you have two factory rubber grommets. Each side has one rectangular and one square grommet going into the frame. You can run a wire down into these spaces from inside the van without drilling a hole in your van. The access hole is in the very back of the drain rails on the sides of the van but it is easier to push the wire up through the rectangular access hole. I replaced the drivers side factory square grommet with my shore power outlet. No new hole, completely out of site, and an easy wire run for your inverter charger. These access points can be used to run other stuff and are one of those things on a Transit you would want to know about before drilling new holes.
Good idea, but you're going to be highly disappointed with next weeks video. 🤣😂 We are doing the shore power inlet right on the side of the van so it's nice and accessible without having to crawl around on the ground. Stealth is a 0% consideration on this build, though, as it will be very apparent that it's a camper and we only camp/park in locations it's legal to do so.
@@EXPLORISTlife Haha….Stealth can also be a look rather than an illegal life style. 😆🤣
Haha! I'd say that 95% of the time anytime somebody mentions stealth in the comments on this channel, they are talking about "How to get away with sleeping in a spot that says no overnight parking". 🤣
@@EXPLORISTlife It can also be a way to get around parking rules related to the association one may live in.
Ultimately... stealth is not a goal of THIS build, but feel free to take whatever inspiration you like from this series and apply it to whatever you're trying to do on your end.
Hi Nate, thank you, these are SO HELPFUL! When planning wire sizes in a spreadsheet, do you add together all of the amps on one circuit? I know this seems like a simple question but I can't seem to find a quick answer.
For example, if you had two water pumps together, do you add the amps for each one, or just use the larger one (assuming they are different) since they won't likely ever be used at the same time? Or when putting together a string of lights, add the amps of each one since they will definitely be on at the same time?
Thank you. Truly. Your active response to comments is really a huge gift to all of us trying to figure out our builds. 🙂
For 'Known' loads like a water pump or lights; I'll add the amps of everything on the same circuit. For 'Unknown' loads like 12V outlets, I'll assume a max circuit amperage of the max amps of a single outlet (usually 15A) and understand I won't be able to load every outlet on the circuit up to max capacity; just like in a house. Same idea of not expecting to put an electric space heater on high on every outlet in your bedroom else the bedroom circuit breaker would trip. Great question!
You mentioned Passenger and Driver’s side Fuse Blocks. I currently have one on my driver’s side but am interested in adding a second to make running wires simpler. Can you share more details on best practices to do so? Thanks for all your help!
I sure can! Will be sharing all about that in a future video, so stay tuned! 🙂👍
I think you mentioned there's two fuse blocks (L/R) for the aux/house system. Whwere did you position them in the van?
Hi guys, I’m curious to know if you have a video that would help me figure out what size to build my electrical system box. I plan to build it out of extruded aluminum. I can see the sizes of the batteries, VE components and other necessary items but don’t have any idea how big the box needs to be to fit all the components and connecting wires. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Nate, if I have to wire 5 x24V circuits in, do I need to buy an additional fuse panel with your kit, or can I use the use the 120V panel or can I wire in somewhere else?
Awesome video! When calculating the amps, do you need to take into consideration when you have multiple units on one circuit when calculating wire size? For example, if I were to put 2 maxxair fans on one circuit at 5 amps each, assuming we have both turned on at full blast, would I need to be calculating wire size for 10 amps?
Yep!
what is the difference between the 24V multiplus and 24V multiplus-II? I am unable to find good info.
Why would you use a traditional shore power inlet rather than a smartplug to reduce the risk of fire? You use a smartplug ended cable to connect tot he vehicle and then run over to a standard 30 or 50 amp power pedestal.
I don't buy into the fact that the SmartPlug is any less prone to fire than a properly maintained traditional shore power inlet so I can't justify the additional $100+ it costs to go that route.
Hi guys, is there a reason that my comment is not showing up below? Is it because I included an Amazon link to what I was talking about?
Yeah, I have to go through and manually approve all comments that contain links.
@@EXPLORISTlife OK, sorry, didn't know that. Thanks Nate.
Are you using the transit CCP terminal for the alternator charge supply? Then why are you using the Victron DC to DC charger?
We will be covering that portion of the build in detail when we get to that episode. Stay tuned!
Do you have a download able example of the spreadsheet?
I don't. There aren't any fancy formulas on it; so it be pretty easy to pause the video and use it for inspiration.
If you are planning to have a SketchUp model of the overall build wouldn’t you want to use SketchUp to plan the placement of your electrical components as well? SketchUp worked great for me. My biggest frustration was that Victron provides a 3D CAD model of every component but only in a commercial CAD format and not compatible with SketchUp.
I don't anticipate releasing the branch circuit wiring in a sketchup format. IMO, that's more user friendly in a diagram instead of a 3d model, so I'm going that route for all branch circuits.
Do you have info (wiring diagram) for a secondary alternator 24v
Not specifically, but the 24V alternator w/ voltage regulator would simply feed into the lynx distributor the same as any other charging source.
On Row 22 detailing your "Upper Aux Power Mid" your consolidated wire size came out to 12 AWG. Based on your model, this would be the only time you would be using this gauge wire. Since your 3% voltage drop recommendation for this circuit is 12 AWG and your 10% drop recommendation is 16 AWG, would it be appropriate to use a 14 AWG since you are using this gauge wire already on a couple other circuits and it is still between your 3% to 10% recommendations?
Yep!
Nate,
Did I hear you say you are thinking of using a 24V system (I thought you said something about a 24V air conditioner) and charging with a DC to DC charger? I was looking for a DC to DC charger that could charge a 24V lithium battery from a 12V alternator. What charger are you considering using?
Stay tuned! 🙂
Question:
Victron recommends 4G for DC/DC?
Which Model?
My 12-12-30 Orion calls out 6g. Which is max size that will fit in lugs.
Did something change in last 18 months?
We will likely be using the 100A Victron Buck Boost for DCDC charging which is what I was talking about in this video. Orion 12-12-30's are still at 6AWG.
Hey Nate, what is the Victron 100A DC-DC charger that you plan on using for this build?
Victron Buck Boost 100A
@@EXPLORISTlife Got ya, thank you Nate!
Why the 24V Nomadic Aircon over the 12V?
We are going to be teaching how to install a 24V battery bank in this system. It's been highly requested, so we are going to talk about it.
@@EXPLORISTlife Understand. Is there an inherent / electrical advantage of 24V over 12V for the aircon/appliance-type?
Our transit van is on order, so we're following this series closely and really appreciate your detailed explanations and videos. I can already foresee we'll be watching the videos several times over.....there's so much information packed into each one. Thanks again.
Why would you use and how would you use relays for lighting?
Stay tuned! Will be covering that in depth in future episodes. 🙂👍
I see you are using a Nomadic Cooling 24v AC unit. Can you briefly explain why? I'm just about to order an AC unit from them but my setup is currently 12v. Thanks and great videos as usual!
In short... DC air conditioners like the Nomadic Cooling AC's are more efficient than their 120VAC counterparts and therefore use less power.
Just to clarify my question, I'm specifically curious why you are going with a 24v unit over a 12v.
Ah, I see. We are going with a 24V unit because we are going to be putting a 24V battery bank in this van since SO many people have asked about how to do it; so we are going to show it.
Nate, do you have a video that focuses on the "pre-wiring" step of any previous van build? I'm at the step where my van is fully insulated and no plywood walls/ceiling are up, and I'm trying to find a tutorial on how best to run any 12v wiring before I put up my plywood walls. Any help? Or, should all wiring be done after plywood walls/ceilings go up, for future accessibility? Thank you.
I don't. This series will be the first time we cover that topic.
@@EXPLORISTlife Can't wait, I'm at the same stage... What is the meaning of Switch Aux Power (i.e. next to Upper Aux Power)? Will you be covering this in the next video. Great videos I've watched so many from you.
Does the solar isolator replace the solar disconnect from your video on how to build one?
Indeed it does. Same concept...different part.
Hi, I was wondering if you ever considered a bluetti powerstation on your build? And if not why? I am considering a build but I dont have much knowledge in electrical systems. Thanks in advance for your responded.
I thought about this when I started my build, but two big drawbacks. 1) It is expensive for the minimal power it provides, unless you are just wanting to run a light load and want the portability. 2) With everything integrated into one unit, there is no easy repair if one component fails.
@@ArvidDarmond it cost 1999usd for 170 ah, thats not expensive is it?
Not really, no. It wouldn't meet our needs. This is an older video, but my thoughts are still pretty much the same for the most part: czcams.com/video/8XxCtgYXm98/video.html I'd rather have individual components for a permanently installed high-end electrical system.
Sorry one question, other than wire size is there any other reasons to go 24 or 48 volts over 12 volts? I'm looking at SOK batteries with the Bluetooth and built in heat for much less than Battleborn.
Just wanted to follow up and let you know that the video comparing the pros and cons of 12v vs 24v vs 48v systems is now live. Here's the link: czcams.com/video/sEW-ZaOOlq0/video.html
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