How To Carb Swap a 88-94 Chevy TBI Truck part 1
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2022
- Here’s a short video on how to carb swap a 88-94 Chevy TBI truck. This video is more geared toward those with the 4L60E. I went through hell trying to get the transmission to act right and there was no info on how to fix it until now. Crewyou07 did a good job on explaining the basics of the carb swap. I took it a bit further. If I missed anything in the video please leave it in the comments below. I will probably post a part 2 pretty soon.
Here’s the specs on the motor:
1996 Chevy Vortec 350 155,000 mile wrecked pullout
Edelbrock Performer RPM Vortec intake manifold
Holley 600 Street Warrior carburetor with vacuum secondaries and electric choke
Procomp Electronics HEI distributor
Hedman 1 7/8” Super Competition long tube headers
True dual 2.5” Flowmaster 40 series exhaust with 3”x18” tips
TCI EZ TCU transmission controller - tells the 4L60E what to do
4L60E built by Evan’s Transmissions with Corvette servos, TransGo shift kit, 1800 stall 4x4 torque converter, hardened sunshell and dual sprag.
Finally 15x10.5 Eagle Alloy 028’s on 275/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A’s
Motor dyno’d 248 hp and 338 ft/lbs of torque at the wheels which means 300 hp at the crank, 410 ft/lbs torque. Not bad for a junkyard motor
Hey man, nice job on the added details and info on this swap.Also thank you for your kind words and mentioning me in your video.
Thanks! I used your video a lot to set up the fuel system and how to set up the ignition system, the rest on the transmission and stuff was trial and error.
@@_chevy_stepsideI can't find the crew you 07 channel do you got a link
His comment is right above mine, should lead you straight to his channel
czcams.com/video/xfO8KBtBWhU/video.htmlsi=jd0LfvimhamnoVKa
Thanks man currently have been working on my 94 k1500. I dropped a blueprint 383 stroker with a holley carb and ran into all the "well due to that tranny gotta buy all this" I purchased the msd version for the tcu. Hopefully all works great. You definitely answered some questions. Thanks.
No problem man! I love helping people out, if you don’t want to deal with the wiring, you could swap in a 700R4, I don’t know how the wiring would look after that along with your speedo but the tci unit is awesome, it’s been almost a year since I put it in and it’s been fabulous.
If he has a 383 I wouldn’t suggest a 700r4 unless it’s highly modified. The 700r4 is only rated to 400hp max.
My 1990 Chevy Cheyenne 1500 with T.B.I. and auto trans was one of the best running and reliable trucks I have ever owned. I put over 300,000 miles. on it when I sold it still running great.
Tbi is great in stock form, however if you want more power carb is the way to go.
Yes, a properly sized 4 barrel carb will produce more power on top end. My 1928 Ford roadster has a 350 Chevy L82 with a triple Rochester two barrel set up and it goes quite well when all 6 barrels are wide open................
Good video man, I have a 94 I'm planning on doing this swap too. You made it seem pretty straight forward. Most videos I've watched on this are confusing and extremely vague
Thanks man. I just don’t want others to be stuck going down the same path I did of trial and error. I’ve learned now what works and what doesn’t.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. My pickup looks almost identical to yours just not stepside
That's a sexy truck bro!!! I love my 94 Sierra Stepside too
Beautiful truck, same as mine just mine is silver. Same wheels also
My 92 GMC as a 5-speed standard but $800 for that that would be nice that's pretty cool I learned something new
when i changed my 1998,vortec, savana van,to carb, my trans shifted without any issue. what i did was left all the sensors on the motor. i installed a TPS on my edelbrock carb.i attached the signal wire from the original coil to the tach side of the HEI dist. van ran fine. 6 months later, the 3-4 clutch pack crapped out. almost 250,000, on trans. replace it with a stage 2, 700r4.
If you swapped your TBI unit for a carb, all you need to do to keep your coolant sensors plugged in how they were, have a tach signal (if you have an HEI distributor you can splice into the white wire coming off the old connector for your stock distributor), and buy the little bracket off of summit to run a TPS on your carb. You shouldn't need a fancy box to keep your 4L60E.
Once again, someone who’s never done a tbi to carb swap with a 4L60E trying to tell me how it works. Listen man, if it has a 4L60E it flat out won’t work without a standalone computer. There’s a lot more used than just the coolant temp sensors. When you take away the tbi you get rid of the map sensor, upper coolant temp sensor (when you swap the intake) and the rpm signal from the distributor. When you do this the computer doesn’t see a complete version of data and signals and locks out the transmission. If you’ve got one that works, please upload a video of it to CZcams and prove me wrong. Has to be 93-94, with a 4L60E, not a 95+ or a truck with a 700R4. Has to be a 4L60E from 93 or 94. I know crewyou07’s worked but he had a 4L80 not a 4L60E (two completely different beasts). Plus if you want to adjust your shift points and rev limiter you absolutely need the standalone computer. Again, upload a video of one working and I’ll retract my statement. Until then you’re dead wrong.
_chevy_stepside is right, part of the trans management on a TBI truck is built into the TBI. If you remove the TBI, you will need a standalone TCM every time.
Thank you
I know several people that have just split the wire electric computer. Shift to Transmission never have had any issues. I have two of these with the foil 68 if I ever do this I’m just gonna wire it and shift it manually and be done with it. it’s no biggie for me. Nice ride my friend.
I'm fairly certain my 93 is a 4L60E cuz it has overdrive.
I'm definitely gonna do this, I'm so tired of the TBI backfiring, and popping and pinging, and running like ass.
Thanks for the video. I have a few questions about hooking up the EZ-TCU and the fuel pump wiring. I have the same truck as you do, mine is just the regular fleet side bed and 4wd.
I didn’t wire in the TCI box so I couldn’t tell you, i had a friend of mine do it for me since I don’t do wiring. As for the fuel pump find a wire that is 12v hot when the key is in the on position and is off when the key isn’t turned on. Other than that it’s pretty straightforward
Thanks I Appreciate you
Nice truck! I have a 1989 GMC 1500 5.7 tbi that has over 400k on it. Od stopped working like 8 years ago at 348k! I'm kinda in the process of either getting a creat motor for it or something like that. I took value covers off one day and you wouldn't believe the build up and blockages it had just on the heads! I didn't really take care of it like I should have like all my previous vehicles. It already had alot of build up inside from what I could see through oil cap and the cooling system was no better with sluge. It was a 1500 dollar truck when I bought it over ten years ago then i got into a bad divorce and She got all the other vehicles even the show ready dakota I had before I met her. Kinda hated the truck cause of her at the beginning. I know with all that build up and sluge it has I would have to take everything apart anyway to clean it right and the miles it would just be a better plan to go ahead and replace engine with something different. How much they charge you for your junk yard motor and can you make a video of it running if you haven't already. Ill look and sub after watching this video. I've always loved the flow master sound and always wanted to do it to my stock rusted exhaust on my truck. I had dual flow masters done on an old 72 long bed I had years ago that sounded great!
Wow that’s quite a story man! I paid $750 for my complete Vortec 350 with exhaust manifolds and accessories still on it. I sold the fuel injection intake and scrapped the rest and made some money back. Motor has 155k miles and came from a 97 Chevy Silverado. The exhaust set up is Hedman 1 7/8 super competition long tube headers with true dual 2.5”Flowmaster 40’s and a set of 3”x18” tips out the back. Once I’m off work I’ll probably make a video with it today
I own 93 Silverado and few junkyards I live in California northern. Big junkyards of Sacramento I went to ask they say you drive out for between 1200-1500 with everything wired and install. But 5.3 or 6.0 vortec.
Close but no cigar. What you really needed to do was splice your tach signal wire into that purple & white wire you were talking about. That's not for the fuel pump, it's so your ECM can run the 4l60e without needing the stand alone shifter. You still need your tps signal but the tach signal wire (usually white) to the prpl & white (4 prong pigtail that used to go to the original dist. will in essence send a cam/crank signal to the ecm to run your Trans.
Once again, another wrong comment. I tried running it, didn’t make a damn bit of difference in how my transmission acted. You need the tci ez tcu or something equivalent to make the swap work. If you can supposedly make it work, send me videos of it or post them on here and please prove me wrong. I’d like to see it where it works. The tach signal wire into that wire made the tach gauge jump around and do all sorts of weird stuff. Didn’t affect the transmission at all.
Yes bro you’re right I tried that method he posted and didn’t work
I read somewhere that you gotta change distributor gear since the old hei has a softer gear that will get torn up by the hardened gear on the roller cam in the vortech. Did you hear about that and do the swap, or have you had any problems with the distributor with the old style gear?
I bought a brand new HEI unit from ProComp Electronics on SummitRacing. It comes with the hardened gear you need so it doesn’t chew up the cam. If you’re doing this swap I recommend you go ahead and swap it out because distributors are cheap (mine only ran about $100 after tax) and it even came with the cap, rotor and coil you need.
Was sent here by @crewyou07, truck looks good man. My question is, I have a 94 k1500 that I converted to an nv3500 manual trans. The motor needs replaced but I was thinking about going to carbureted. Seems like something worth doing but the manual trans still has electronic hookups so I was wondering if I would need that tci for it? Most of the videos I've watched on this say that the automatic needs it but the manual doesn't. Just wanted to see what you thought. Thanks!
Nah you don’t need the tci box. The only electronic hookups I can think of for an nv3500 would be for your speedo. Other than that I don’t see why there’d be much more than that. Maybe someone else can chime in and help but I think that’s only for the speedo. That’s what I think!
Hey man, cool truck. Curious what you used for headers and your fuel pressure regulator and gauge, as far as brands ?
The headers are hedman 1 7/8 super comp long tube headers I bought on marketplace (the 632 dollar pair that are ceramic coated) and I paid $140 for them. They’re for a 88-95. The fuel pressure regulator is I think a mr gasket one from summit racing as well as the regulator. Hope this helps
You can do 4l60e control with the oe computer you just have to keep the stock harness “- fuel injection and distributor “hooked up. Install the aftermarket tps bracket and you golden.
Haha no. That doesn’t work. If you’re running a carburetor then you need the standalone computer as the stock computer won’t know what to do with no map sensor, coolant temp sensor (by intake), tps sensor on stock tbi and all the other assorted things on the tbi and tbi electrical system. I tried it and it flat out doesn’t work
Unfortunately, I, too, tried this method but with a Holley sniper. My transmission lasted 3 weeks.
I had a new transmission built, and I'm now using a USSHIFT controller.
Upon watching your video. This seems really possible. For me. I have a 98
98’s are a completely different animal because of the obd2 and all. I mean you can do it but you’ll have to wire in the controller and or swap in a different transmission like a 700R4 or an NV4500
As a only stock guy tbi for the win they are built perfect imo throw carburators in the trash
your fuel pump runs on two systems. Crank - runs a few seconds and dies. Oil pressure sending unit, after you get oil pressure the fuel pump energizes.
That's problem I'm dealing, where can I find out how to wire that correctly
What I found worked on my truck was the grey wire on the fuel pump relay plug (your wiring color may vary), and ran that to a 12v hot source key on only and that fixed it.
@_chevy_stepside just to avoid confusion you mean an auxiliary wire right
czcams.com/video/xfO8KBtBWhU/video.htmlsi=jd0LfvimhamnoVKa
Im interested in the long tube headers
I really want to swap my 93 roadmaster from tbi to carb
My truck is a 1988 1 ton with the 350 tbi and since it has a manual trans (sm465) I guess it will be much much cheaper and easier.
So I already have an new carb which means I will only need an intake manifold & gaskets and that's all?
Pretty much yeah! You’ll also need a fuel pressure regulator and an hei distributor, but other than that you’re pretty much set. Let me know if you have any questions
I’ve got a 1990 k1500 Cheyenne, how similar would a carb swap be to this? The truck has a three speed THM400 auto transmission. I know the 4l60e is a totally different transmission but I know the THM400 is similar to the 700r4.
It would be similar except you don’t need the tps adapter or the tci ez tcu. Personally I would prefer running a 700r4 because 1st gear is lower and you also gain another gear of overdrive as well as converter lockup to keep things cooler. All you’d really need is your passing gear cable hooked up to a Holley throttle bracket and the adapter on the carb for it as well as a vacuum source ran to your vacuum modulator valve (you’d have to research where to run it to as I’ve never attempted it). Finally if it’s a lockup th400 you’d need to find a way to wire up a switch for your lockup or find a way to make the factory switch work (again, I’ve never done it). In terms of working with a 700r4, it is much easier in that the only electronic thing in it is the lockup switch. What you have to do to run the 700 is use the Holley throttle bracket and cable adapter for the tv cable, make sure you get the cable adjusted correctly and then for your converter lockup, either use a 12v on/off switch to direct 12v or something of that nature, or do your own research on how to make the factory lockup switch work. I’m sure there’s several forum posts where someone made the factory lockup switch work, I’ve just never attempted it before. Other than that, everything else should work the same. Any questions please feel free to ask
Did you leave the ECU (engine computer) installed? I'm all swapped, left the ECU and everything worked fine for 5 months, but today, the pump lost its 2 second prime function.
I did but then removed it, all you have to do is find the hot wire on your fuel pump relay, run it to a 12v source when the key is on and then Hotwire it that way
@@_chevy_stepside thank you
Nice build also what kind of fuel regulator did u used? Brand?
Thanks man, it was like a $56.99 regulator from Mr Gasket I got on summit racing, don’t remember the part number or anything like that
@@_chevy_stepside thanks I just couldn't find a regulator that holds the pressure from the oem fuel pump im running 1 rn but I'm like at 7 lbs not the best but its running
Ideally you want to be around 5.5-6 psi. 7 is a little on the high side
So can you do away with the computer completely or do I still need to keep it we’re it’s at I have a 1993 gmc
You can only if you have a 700r4 if not then u need a transmission controller and is about 1k. You may as well get an ls swap.
Ls swaps are boring, I wanted to do something different
Vortecs are easier to wire the 4l60e, simply have to wire the stock crank sensor, ignition wire with your power to an hei and of course the tbi sensor for your holley and the trans will shift just fine without needing a stand alone or controller for 4l60e
Not sure on the tbi since there is no crank position sensor
This is a carb swapped Vortec 350. The truck was originally tbi. It simply will not shift without the tci box. It locked the transmission out of 1st and 4th gear. My transmission guy could only get it to shift with a manual star tester. I have yet to see a 4L60E in a carb swap application without a tci transmission controller or something like it that shifts. I don’t know about a 4L80 but I know the 4L60E needs a computer to control it. I will eat my shoes if there’s one that can shift without a computer or without wiring the solenoids to a switch and butchering the transmission wiring.
@@_chevy_stepside Are you refering to the guy with the house lite switches?😄
@@williamreilly8520 yes
Which wire did you connect the gray wire off the fuel pump relay to? That’s been a struggle with my 93 k1500 I’ve been trying to get it to run but haven’t gotten it to fire
So what I did is I found a hot wire that would’ve originally been for the evap vent solenoid (a little plastic thing with a vacuum line running up to it from the charcoal canister) that sits right below the throttle body. I found a hot wire coming off of that (12v hot when the key was on, checked it with a test light), stripped the wire, made a hot wire from the grey wire on the relay to the wire on evap solenoid (I forget which color wire) you don’t have to use the exact same wire I did, but any wire that is 12v hot when the key is on, and dead when the key isn’t on is what you want. Hope this helped
@@_chevy_stepside I think I figured something out, I’m going to tap into one of the injector wires since it’s a 12v keyed hot source I’ve got the rest how it should be I believe, the pink wire off the coil to the battery port and the white wire to the tach port
@@CamoK-ht7lo that should work, just be careful which wire you pick, I know the injectors pulse, idk if that would affect your signal or not. You don’t want a sine wave in your fuel pump lol
@@_chevy_stepside that is true I may just find a 12v hot wire like you did instead then
Where can you get that controller app to put on your truck for the transmission
I got mine through summit racing
Same swap I'm looking to do but with a 350zz4 and a 5spd. The factory fuel system for the tbi is enough for basic driving but not enough for any real heavy throttle
Never had an issue with mine. Even a year later with nitrous and lots of abuse it still does just fine. Unless your fuel pump is weak mine has never given me an issue and this truck has spent most of, if not all of its life at wot.
The motor for the 350zz4 runs 93 octane, it really needs 60psi fuel to run correctly which the tbi system doesnt supply. The factory fuel system only supply's 11psi fuel pressure so it's ok to drive with but not enough for any real power. Going to carb like you did and switching out my shorty headers for long tube will help it out
Ohhh I misread that. I thought you already had a carb on it and having fuel pressure issues so I was kinda confused. If you’d want to keep the fuel injection on that zz4 you’d really need a Vortec fuel pump unit and you’d probably be set. As for the carb, the tbi pump is plenty. Sorry for the confusion and misunderstanding!
Your good dude, I thought about upgrading to a better fuel pump as well but quickly realized that even if I did, my tbi and tbi to vortec intake would only flow 450 cfm to the motor. At least if I carb it and throw on a 750 carb itll breath
@jerrylegates3023 For sure man, that tbi don’t flow worth a damn to begin with, carb swap the world!
could i manually shift my 4L60 instead of buying that harness like a floor shifter if you know what i mean?
No you can’t, unless you swap it to a full manual valve body. I’d swap it to a 700R4 and that’ll solve your problem, or buy the tci unit
So if you have a 5 speed manual you wouldn't need the ecm/pcm/computer any more correct?
Nope, the only thing you need is a speedo signal I think to make the speedo work and that’s it
When putting on a carb to avoid tranny problems just swap the tranny out for a 350 tubo or 400 transmission we have already done plenty of those years of trucks .
I’d much rather prefer a 700r4 or a 4L60e over a turbo 350 or turbo 400. You need that extra overdrive gear if you want to drive on the freeway and get halfway decent mileage and driveability
U make this look hard ash for me anyways it seems complicated then I watch someone else’s video it look some what easier where does the tcu plug in besides the hand held remote where’s the harness go at this point u make it out to with 2 options switch to 700r4 or wire it and hope u do it right
Anything worth doing in life never came easy. If you have a 93-94 Silverado (maybe 95’s, unsure) you either have to switch to a 700r4 mechanical transmission (if you want ease of install), or wire in the tci ez tcu box or something of the sort. If not the 4L60E simply will not work. The wiring is butchered because at 17 years old I thought I could rewire a truck and I was really wrong. We were going to splice the stock 94 harness together with the tci box but the 94 harness was melted together underneath the coolant overflow tank, so we had to get creative. Thus why the harness is so butchered. The tci unit comes with instructions on how to wire it up and make it work. It’s really not hard, just time consuming. Everyone else’s videos look easy because theirs don’t work. Anyone saying you run the purple wire to your distributor is wrong and the fact of the matter is that it simply won’t work. To further answer your question the tci handheld controller runs under the dash into the actual box itself (mounted in place of the stock computer) which controls the transmission. Next time, think a little bit more before you post something as outlandish as this in my comment section.
czcams.com/video/xfO8KBtBWhU/video.htmlsi=jd0LfvimhamnoVKa
Do i still need the tps for 700r4
Edelbrocks proflo4 is alot better than a carb and is honestly a much easier swap plus it controls the 4L60 as well so I'm pretty sure you can have torque management as well so you don't blow your trans
Why is it better than a carb if I run a turbo 400 ?
Proflow 4's run well over two thousand bucks these days and I only get 10 mpg with my obd 1
A carb would be no worse. I've run a lot of them in the past
@@davewalters6348brawler carb with vacuum secondaries and you’ll see more than 10mpg.
What all is needed for the 700r4? Feels like my tranny is locking up and the engine is sluggish
I have to ask first, do you have your tv cable hooked up going to the carburetor? Can you shift it manually through all the gears? If you don’t hook up the tv cable and adjust it properly on the carburetor, you’ll burn the transmission up in minutes. For the 700R4, all you need is a throttle bracket for your tv cable (the Holley one I have is Holley 20-95) and the little stud for the tv cable on the carburetor. Then you will need to wire up a 12v switch for torque converter lock up. There’s plenty of info on Thirdgen.org on how to wire up the switch for lockup and CZcams
Can you go more in depth about the fuel pressure regulator mine keeps bouncing back and fourth . It has new fuel pump I have power to fuel pump when I turn the key
It’s a jegs regulator
If it’s bouncing back and forth you’ve got a fuel pressure issue somewhere, turn the screw until you get between 5-6 psi which is optimally what you want. It’s normal for it to wiggle a little bit but not to bounce around
Can you tell me what fuel pressure regulator you are using? Thanks no rush on this. Much appreciated
I’ll be honest I forgot which one, I know it’s a summit racing brand one that is between 4-9 psi. You dial it back between 5.5-7 psi and you’ll be set. I think it was about $55
No worries, shouldn't be too hard to find one that works for me, I'm getting ready to pull mine apart and start this swap. I picked up a set of vortec heads today to go with it
Everything is reasonably priced. The tci trans controller is the most expensive it's looking like
What intake carb combo are you running?
It’s an Edelbrock Perfomer RPM Vortec intake with a Holley 600 Street Warrior carburetor with a 1” spacer
So the grey wire 2:21 is the hot lead of the fuel pump correct ?
On my truck yes, on your model year it may be different.
@@_chevy_stepside ok thank you. I have a 91...Ironically I'm ls swapping my 350 tbi that was converted to carb😂
czcams.com/video/xfO8KBtBWhU/video.htmlsi=jd0LfvimhamnoVKa
i just posted this on crewyou's channel but i need help with what wires to retain on the alternator side of the stock harness? 88 c1500
Just leave the alternator side alone, leave the factory coolant temp sensor, alt hookups everything, don’t chop up the harness until the truck is running as you’ll run the risk of messing stuff up (which is what I did) and you’ll have to rewire the truck which isn’t fun
@@_chevy_stepside ok so i retain everything and do i absolutely have to run the coolant temp sensor?
If you want your factory gauge to work yes, keep the one in the cylinder head, one on the intake can be discarded as it’s for the computer to control tcc lock up
@@_chevy_stepside ok sick i get it for the alternator side now. last question, on fuel pump relay you wire a 12v hot on key to the gray wire on relay in line with the regular relay wiring?
You need to do some testing with a test light and find which wire is hot, in my case it was the grey wire, on a 88 it could be different
I'm not being sarcastic or disrespectful, I am just really interested in knowing why would anyone ever swap from efi to carburetor?
That is a fantastic question. I’ll try to answer the best I can. In my case it was that I was looking for more power. These trucks come stock with a 2 barrel tbi system that in stock form works great. Sadly for me it started backfiring really bad through the intake and I didn’t feel like messing with it. The truck made 210 hp at the crank stock, stock motor with a carb makes 250 hp at the crank. It opens it up more. The main reason is performance. A Vortec 350 makes 255 hp with fuel injection, meanwhile a carb swapped Vortec 350 can easily make 320 hp with a carb. Plus carbs are much more simple and easier to diagnose than a tbi system. I replaced every single sensor and spent over 40 hours trying to diagnose and fix it and I couldn’t. Plus with a carburetor you get that wonderful 4 barrel sound you just can’t get with fuel injection. I really appreciate you asking this question as it’s one that doesn’t get asked enough.
@@_chevy_stepside Very cool, I appreciate the answer and your reasons for carb preference, and I appreciate having a good dialogue with folks like you. I prefer the testing and tuning with efi and just like to talk to guys with different ideas and points of view.
No problem man. The biggest thing is that in 1955 when the small block was introduced it was designed to work best with a carburetor. That’s the main reason they got rid of it for the LS engines in 99, they just wouldn’t meet the emissions standards and power levels that people wanted in the 90’s and into the early 00’s. I like efi as well but carbs in my opinion work better, much easier to tune and much less to go wrong. Simplicity is the key. I like efi (I daily drive a 2005 5.3 silverado) because it’s easy to use and it just works. Meanwhile with a carb I have to sit and let it warm up but boy does it run good. Almost better imo than fuel injection
Because it will start if an EMP goes off.
Power. The 2 barrel efi was terrible for power
I wanted to put a 93 5.7 into a 77 c10 with a 400 turbo hydramatic .anything i need to know i was assuming it was an easy swap other than the intake ?
Did u have to do anything special to get your factory gauges to work with doing a carb swap
So here’s the thing. With the electronic transmission I couldn’t get my speedo to sync up to the tci unit (uses a very odd speedometer ppm so it wouldn’t sync to the box) so the speedo doesn’t work. But I use the tci unit because it has a built in speedometer. The tach works like factory, all you have to do is run your white wire off the coil to your tach port on the distributor. The coolant temperature, oil pressure sensor, volt meter and gas gauge go in like factory. Other than that there’s no modifications necessary
Thanks
@@bricetucker3926 You’re welcome
How much would you say you have into the motor? Cause I'm thinking about going with blueprints sbc that's 370hp 410torque for 5,000$ comes turn key ready already dyno tested and everything. Comes with carb and distributor and everything. Bolt in ready
Prolly all said and done maybe $1500 if I had to guess, I bought the carb brand new (back the. It was $360)bought the intake for $100 at the swap meet, changed the water pump (35) had to buy new front accessory brackets as I used them on another truck (85), the motor itself was $750 but I sold the Vortec fuel injection intake and clutch that was on it for about $300. So around 1000-1500 if I had to guess. After awhile I stopped keeping track.
Plus the thing for the trans right?
If you’re running a 4L60E yes
Yeah I do. I got a 94 k1500. You got instagram or anything? Thinking of other ways to contact you instead of CZcams incase I got question during my biuld uk
@@brycepeters964 Instagram is the same as the CZcams channel name
Your blower motor clicks too? Lol is that a thing for this gen
Yeah the gears strip out and it makes that noise on startup and when you shut off. It just does that
Do you have a list of the parts you purchased
Yeah it’ll take me a minute to find it but I can make one real quick
Does it work for the 95? It’s got a 4l60 got a non vortex motor
Not sure. Your results may vary
Can I run any carburetor that I want if I run a manual transmission?
Yeah, with a manual there’s no need for a tv cable or a pcm controller. Depends on your motor as well. A 350 sbc with Vortec heads like mine only needs roughly 650 cfm at most, when you start running bigger cams and stuff like that or a bigger engine you can step it up a bit. There’s a calculator somewhere on the internet that’ll tell you how much cfm per cubic inch you need or something like that
What size tires and wheels are you running?
15x10.5” Eagle Alloy 028’s on 275/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A’s
Another question what did you do with all the wires on the fuel pump relay I need a little assistance with that
I left them run into the stock harness, only wire I had to tap into was the gray wire
@@_chevy_stepside in your video I seen your orange wire was connected to the junction block so I did that, the wires left are the red, green with white, and a black wire so basically I leave those alone?
@@CamoK-ht7lo so here’s the thing about my harness. I should’ve said in the video NOT to go by my harness except for the grey wire. See my truck has been rewired, and the original harness was bypassed. If you can, put it back to how it was and just tap into the grey wire, it should work like factory
@@_chevy_stepside oh yeah I completely forgot about that part haha yes I can hook the orange wire back up and just use the gray wire for my keyed 12v hot and it should run
@@CamoK-ht7lo yeah it should run, lmk how it goes
You can do it with the factory computer. Install the crank position sensor, tps, coolant temp, oil and all that stuff and it works flawlessly.
No lol, tried that and without the tbi unit or the computer controlled distributor the computer doesn’t know what to do and locks out the transmission. I’ve lived it. Show me a truck still running the stock computer 93-94 model with a 4L60E and then I’ll think otherwise
@1994 _chevy_stepside what if my pick up is manual transmission? 98 f150, can I swap without changing the computer?
@@BOREDANDWELLBOREDyes cuz that you are your own computer for the transmission you're shifting it yourself it doesn't need a computer
I have a 1990 K1500 stepside side I did a carburetor swap as well, I'm having trouble trying to get my mechanical oil pressure guage sensor to screw into the rear of the block for my oil pressure, is there anywhere else I can run my oil pressure line to on the block or intake?
On the stock tbi trucks there’s a little 90 degree fitting that comes off the block right behind the intake. Try finding one at a junkyard and screwing into that. If that doesn’t work there’s a port right above the oil filter with a pipe plug or on some engines it’s not plugged and has a sensor sticking out of it. Take the fitting or plug out and then try screwing into that
@@_chevy_stepside by the oil filter you mean the housing or its on the engine block above the the oilel filter?
@@road2richz_q266 it’s in the block above the filter housing
@@_chevy_stepside cool thanks
@@_chevy_stepside it's two areas above the filter housing i tried the one that had the did not have a bolt yhe fitting did not fit Its one more with a bolt screwed in I'll try that and see if it fits
If I were to just throw a manual in my truck would I have to do all that programming with the tci
No not at all. If it’s a manual, you become the transmission controller.
@@_chevy_stepside so right now I have a 95 and I know you said you don’t know anything about that but I have the 4l60e so if I’d manual swap it and carb swap it would I have to get a new computer
You’re in uncharted territory on that one my friend. I would assume so but I wouldn’t know
@@_chevy_stepside dang, I was hoping there’s a way to bypass that, so with that being said do you think it’ll be easier getting the 700r4 or a manual
You’d be better off with a 700r4. Easier to swap in, less to change, just reuse your shifter linkage and it should work fine, make sure you hook up your tv cable and wire up a switch for converter lockup
So basically the tci ez tcu is a stand alone computer/ control for just the transmission??
Yes
@@_chevy_stepside I currently have a 700r4 transmission in my 89 c1500 with a big block but 3rd and 4th went out, and I’m thinking about putting a 4l80 from a 93 I got laying around, but It won’t work w the computer it has right now so that’s why I asked if the tci ez tcu was a strand alone . Have you had any problems with it ? I’ve heard people say that it heats up and goes into limp mode
Sounds good. The tci unit has been one of the best things I’ve ever installed. You can adjust shift points, tire size, shift firmness, shift aggression, all kinds of stuff. My 4L60E after a hard day of racing got up to 252 degrees and it would’ve kept going if I didn’t pull over. Has an integrated trans temp gauge on it as well. Never had an issue with it
@@_chevy_stepside you have the part number for it ?
It’s on summit, 302820
Would it work on a 95 it’s still tbi and isn’t vortec
95 model trucks are a topic about as sticky and gooey as it’s ever been. I personally stay away from them because they’re one year only. Many of the parts don’t interchange between 88-94 or 96-98. For example the coolant lines are all one year only, the transmission is one year only, same with the wiring, ac controls and other things, which is why I didn’t include them in this video. I’d check gmt400.com and see if there’s any advice there. The wiring harnesses and everything might be the same, but I didn’t want to risk giving out bad information.
For 95 tbi i did mine works great no extra nothing
czcams.com/video/xfO8KBtBWhU/video.htmlsi=jd0LfvimhamnoVKa
I’m doing that swap right now I’ve got a turbo 350 transmission and a 98 350 vortec what’s a good cam to run in it to get a little more power without changing a lot inside
A good cam is a good question. Do you tow with the truck? Do you want a cam for racing? Do you just want chop? Do you want to stay stock stall converter? There’s a lot of questions to ask here. Personally I’ve heard the comp cams magnum 270h is a good cam, the only drawback is it’s flat tappet, so you’ll have to do your own research on that.
I want them wheels 😋😋
Wheels ain’t for sale man, look around for em. They’re 15x10 Eagle Alloy 028’s. I paid $250 for them back in 2020 before the 90’s comeback happened so I got a smoking deal on em
Could have shut off that annoying fan ! You can get a new chip burned to control the trans $100 ish with Sinister Performance, LLC out Indiana using stock ecm. $800 is too much.
Huh? It’s a mechanical fan, it can’t be shut off. Runs constantly 🤦♂️🤦♂️
To further reply to your comment. The stock computer will not work. When you swap to a carburetor you delete the tbi thus making the computer inside useless. It doesn’t have the sensors from the tbi to make it work. You need a Holley tps and a tci ez tcu, you can try doing it the half ass way like you said but I will bet money it won’t work. Plus with the tci unit I can control when it shifts, how firm it shifts, what rpm, tire size and everything else.
Part 2 🤔
I’m currently in the process of moving over 1800 miles. Give me a couple weeks
@@_chevy_stepside okay no rush
@@offthestreetsandinthecreek7294 Aight so the update video is still in the works. Imma wind up doing another video on cleaning up the engine bay and stuff like that. Maybe not about carb swaps, but something idk
@@_chevy_stepside hell yeah brother I’d love to see whatever you post 🫡
Size tires
15x10 Eagle Alloy 028’s on 275/60r15’s
@@_chevy_stepside nice is that stock height
Yup, just drop shackles in the back
Why?????
Why would you want to do this?
More power, more reliability and less issues than tbi
So wtf applies?
Huh?
Your wrong..you DO NOT NEED THAT COMPUTER THAT HE BOUGHT… total waste of money .. I did the same conversion ..not needed..fuel system is correct .
In order to make the 4L60E work with a carburetor you do. If you have a 700R4 you don’t, 700R only needs the tv cable and a 12v switch for lockup, a 4L60E simply will not work without a computer to control it. It’ll be stuck in limp mode and only have manual 2nd and 3rd gear.
Actually he is right, you do need that computer for 4l60e. Some trucks have 700r4 in them those aren't comp controlled.
Like most people who make stupid comments like this, they won’t reply when they know they’re wrong lol
I mean you can create a switch ran to the tranny and physically shift but the end result is more wear and tear on a tranny. 15$ and a new tranny... or 800$ no issues and bonus features. Doing it right the first time is key.
@@prestonbaxter281 Someone gets it! I’ve seen where people have run straight 12v to the shift solenoids but that’s hard on the band anchors. I’d rather do it right the first time and never look at it again