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Great tips on how to control the cueball, the other thing is the bouncing off the cushing can affect the cueball speed to where you want to be and with kicks can affect the ball to slow down the cueball or throw off the direction you need to be.
Youre tuition is the best by far thnks so much steve,and to think ronnie osullivan is being financed by saudi arabia to introduce the rocket method,should b the barton method
Good video Steve. I think a really good example of how hard you hit the ball is when you're playing a screw shot. For example, if screwing off the black into the pack on a half ball, you can't hit it too hard as the cue ball will arc past the pack before the spin kicks in
Funnily enough I was doing a session on this the other day. And also things like how you can generate tonnes of backspin by hitting minus 1 but really hard rather than just -4 softer. That was just to demonstrate that differnt parts of the cueball and different powers when using them can do completely different things, but it's a similar principle I suppose.
It’s crazy how speed affects everything. The cue ball can react completely different based on speed alone. If you lose the spin, it’ll come off totally different than you’re expecting.
Great Video - very useful - BUT !!!! - That is why playing on slow tables is so hard - Cushion bounce is one thing, then speed of cloth. Please do a video when 50+ breakers playing on fast tables have to play on slow table sin their league matches. I play on good tables with Championship 10 cloths, then go into a league game and my confidence is so sapped because of the table. I also have recently been playing on Jimmy White's table and AGAIN confidence sapped because it so FAST & TIGHT !!!! - After getting used to it I'm better. Overall it is easier to go to a faster table, so hard going to a slower one, as you need more power (obviously) but you need to go further up the white by millimeters!! Please do a video on "Changing conditions" :)
As great as fast thin napped heated tables are just remember that they can pose their own problems ,any unwanted side or dodgy cueing will show up and be greatly exaggerated,that said being in amongst the balls at the top end of the table is much easier for break building .If you play to a reasonable standard you should be able to adapt fairly quickly to a half decent table .
Thanks again Steve for excellent advice. Could you possibly do a 'part 2' of this, showing the effect of playing these exact shots, with no helping side?
Hey! I mean I could, be essential it's exactly the same. The side 'opens up' the cushion a bit more, meaning you can hit a larger area on the cushion and still land on the reds. Without the side, the exact striking point on the black cushion needs to be more accurate that's all. But it's essentially the same thing.
Hi Steve! Can you do a video on twisting the hip while taking the stance! How important is the hip twist while taking your non-aiming leg forward? Few players consciously do the twist so that they can level their heads on the board easily. Few do it for cueing reasons. I personally have observed that the twist in the hip makes sure that there's less body contact with the cue. It's only your chest and chin keeping your cue in line when you twist. But when you don't, your cue tends to rub against the side portion of your stomach or sometimes your aiming hand ruffles against your hip while doing feathers! So based on all these observations, could you do a video on this? Is the twist in hip necessary or does it vary from player to player?
It seems like the center of the cue ball is the most touchy location cause you're always getting partial stun. Wouldn't it be advisable to avoid this part of the cue ball and aim for a more consistent part where you get closer to full stun or rolling with side? I guess if you did a full stun with right hand side, you'd have to hit it harder though.
It's the same everywhere on the cue ball, it's always this sensitive. If you go lower to 'full stun' and then use right to check the cue ball up, you have to hit it very, very hard. And then the side would also cause the cue ball to 'die' and get stuck to the black cushion. No player (other than a mistakes by club players) would do it like this.
Very informative video and thanks a lot, but I think height at which you are hitting the cue ball also matters as for the power is concerned coz hitting the centre of the cue ball requires more power than when hitting too top or too down ever so slightly coz cueball is more lighter the when you hit the ball too high or too low if you could add these aspects as well with your views would be much appreciated....thanks
I would like you to include speaking about how those subtle changes we need to train our brain so that touch and feel can be developed while hitting too top or too low and the change in acceleration and the timing required
This is great! I just practiced assesing power at the table today! Do you have any videos on how to feel how hard a shot is going to be? For example, sometimes I visualise before the shot that I need about 40% power. But I deliver it at maybe 30-35%, which throws the choice of side spin and positional play off. How can I better predict that?
Some suggest you should feather as hard as you plan to hit it. It's not an approach I take. I think the key is the pause on your final back swing. Make that pause long enough that you can think about how hard you want to deliver the cue👍
Great videos.the table i play on is 30 gauge cloth im told and club owner says it’s difficult to screw back. Ive followed your advice and only getting the cue ball to screw back 1 1/2 ft. What gauge cloth do you play on .
Hi Steve I sent you an email few days ago requesting online coaching. As I mentioned in the email, I am located in Hong Kong. Maybe you have been busy. I still wonder if it is possible as I am really interested in improving my game. Thanks for reading.
Makes you wonder how the professionals get everything right most of the time. Great video.
Headcam a must for all videos in the future thanks
will be appreciated by all 👍
Very nice ...thank you for the tips...always waiting for your videos...
Thanks for the lesson👍
Thx
Thank you Eddie! 👍👍
Great tips on how to control the cueball, the other thing is the bouncing off the cushing can affect the cueball speed to where you want to be and with kicks can affect the ball to slow down the cueball or throw off the direction you need to be.
Youre tuition is the best by far thnks so much steve,and to think ronnie osullivan is being financed by saudi arabia to introduce the rocket method,should b the barton method
Very useful video!
This is great. Thank you
Good video Steve. I think a really good example of how hard you hit the ball is when you're playing a screw shot.
For example, if screwing off the black into the pack on a half ball, you can't hit it too hard as the cue ball will arc past the pack before the spin kicks in
Lots love from Bhutan❤🇧🇹
Brilliant as usual 👍🏻
Great video. Really good explainer. I'd like to see another video on applying screwback. I STILL can't get it right! 😅🤣
Funnily enough I was doing a session on this the other day. And also things like how you can generate tonnes of backspin by hitting minus 1 but really hard rather than just -4 softer. That was just to demonstrate that differnt parts of the cueball and different powers when using them can do completely different things, but it's a similar principle I suppose.
It’s crazy how speed affects everything. The cue ball can react completely different based on speed alone. If you lose the spin, it’ll come off totally different than you’re expecting.
This video should have been about speed, not power.
what's the difference?@@BushXCGL
Great Video - very useful - BUT !!!! - That is why playing on slow tables is so hard - Cushion bounce is one thing, then speed of cloth. Please do a video when 50+ breakers playing on fast tables have to play on slow table sin their league matches. I play on good tables with Championship 10 cloths, then go into a league game and my confidence is so sapped because of the table. I also have recently been playing on Jimmy White's table and AGAIN confidence sapped because it so FAST & TIGHT !!!! - After getting used to it I'm better. Overall it is easier to go to a faster table, so hard going to a slower one, as you need more power (obviously) but you need to go further up the white by millimeters!!
Please do a video on "Changing conditions" :)
As great as fast thin napped heated tables are just remember that they can pose their own problems ,any unwanted side or dodgy cueing will show up and be greatly exaggerated,that said being in amongst the balls at the top end of the table is much easier for break building .If you play to a reasonable standard you should be able to adapt fairly quickly to a half decent table .
Best person to improve your game ❤
Thanks again Steve for excellent advice. Could you possibly do a 'part 2' of this, showing the effect of playing these exact shots, with no helping side?
Hey! I mean I could, be essential it's exactly the same. The side 'opens up' the cushion a bit more, meaning you can hit a larger area on the cushion and still land on the reds. Without the side, the exact striking point on the black cushion needs to be more accurate that's all. But it's essentially the same thing.
Hello Barton 👋🏻 can you make a video on snooker rules ek screw back shot
Great stuff!
And i know you welcome criticism, the first few minutes the audio/video was a bit out of sync 😉 (until 3:21 to be exact)
Great video. The big problem with most of us occasional players is we don’t spend enough time on the table. 👍👍
Hi Steve! Can you do a video on twisting the hip while taking the stance! How important is the hip twist while taking your non-aiming leg forward? Few players consciously do the twist so that they can level their heads on the board easily. Few do it for cueing reasons. I personally have observed that the twist in the hip makes sure that there's less body contact with the cue. It's only your chest and chin keeping your cue in line when you twist. But when you don't, your cue tends to rub against the side portion of your stomach or sometimes your aiming hand ruffles against your hip while doing feathers! So based on all these observations, could you do a video on this? Is the twist in hip necessary or does it vary from player to player?
Nice video again Steve 😊Hoping your keeping well 😊
It seems like the center of the cue ball is the most touchy location cause you're always getting partial stun. Wouldn't it be advisable to avoid this part of the cue ball and aim for a more consistent part where you get closer to full stun or rolling with side? I guess if you did a full stun with right hand side, you'd have to hit it harder though.
It's the same everywhere on the cue ball, it's always this sensitive. If you go lower to 'full stun' and then use right to check the cue ball up, you have to hit it very, very hard. And then the side would also cause the cue ball to 'die' and get stuck to the black cushion. No player (other than a mistakes by club players) would do it like this.
Great video sir, can i know what is a correct bridge length distance?
Headcam shot please will be good for everyone 👍
Thank you sir. 👍👍👍
Very informative video and thanks a lot, but I think height at which you are hitting the cue ball also matters as for the power is concerned coz hitting the centre of the cue ball requires more power than when hitting too top or too down ever so slightly coz cueball is more lighter the when you hit the ball too high or too low if you could add these aspects as well with your views would be much appreciated....thanks
It's added. I show hitting lower and higher and then close to the middle. All at different powers 👍
I would like you to include speaking about how those subtle changes we need to train our brain so that touch and feel can be developed while hitting too top or too low and the change in acceleration and the timing required
This is great! I just practiced assesing power at the table today!
Do you have any videos on how to feel how hard a shot is going to be?
For example, sometimes I visualise before the shot that I need about 40% power. But I deliver it at maybe 30-35%, which throws the choice of side spin and positional play off. How can I better predict that?
Some suggest you should feather as hard as you plan to hit it. It's not an approach I take. I think the key is the pause on your final back swing. Make that pause long enough that you can think about how hard you want to deliver the cue👍
Ive been doing well dropping my elbow. Did you do a video on this steve
Yeah, this one:
czcams.com/video/008pZGYtDMs/video.htmlsi=aJVB5NbhO7E557QW
@@BartonSnooker Thanks Steve
Great videos.the table i play on is 30 gauge cloth im told and club owner says it’s difficult to screw back. Ive followed your advice and only getting the cue ball to screw back 1 1/2 ft. What gauge cloth do you play on .
As always sir ❤
Hi Steve I sent you an email few days ago requesting online coaching. As I mentioned in the email, I am located in Hong Kong. Maybe you have been busy. I still wonder if it is possible as I am really interested in improving my game. Thanks for reading.
Hello! Sorry I have it 👍 I have been really unwell and have not been at work this last week. I will reply to you on the email ASAP 😀👍