LOVE that you take us through the literal step-by-step process. I learn so much better when I'm shown and not just told. I know that was a lot of work, so THANK YOU!
Best video I’ve seen, you have a great way of explaining hands on instead of being a talking head. This is how people learn quickly and how information is parted. Thank you
Worrying about highlights left me too many dark pics with weird colors so I'm starting to move my histogram towards the right also (in RAW.) Thanks for the tutorial!
Now my cameras are nothing fancy but one of them has this feature where any highlight that is pure white flashes when the pic is taken. Its very good feature.
Love your videos and especially the one on the Xperia ii series cameras. I have just purchased the Xperia 5 ii specifically for the camera and your video was great for understanding how to use it properly. Thank you!
Great information in your tutorial. I think this will help me to get better results from my Sony. I was wondering what metering mode you used to photograph under the bridge? Thank you.
This is so helpful! Thank you for posting and taking the time! Question… you had the “zebras” still when you increased the exposure but it seemed perfect anyway. Just ignore the zebras in that situation?
Not sure about the usage of zebra, at 8:25, he checked it wasn't blown out, meaning the bright part has details preserved. Hence the histogram is accurate.
5:48 so just to be sure, when you were changing the exposure with the “stops” you were changing the shutter speed correct? I’m new to all this so just wondering. Trying to use these skills for video. Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for the great explanation. I have a question that extends the information presented in this video. You took your photos at +0.3 and +0.7, and they looked significantly different. What would you do if the "perfect exposure" was between those two exposures?
@@JamesLavish IIRC, the +0.7 wasn't blown out (but could be verified after viewing both photos in an editor), so that would be the keep and adjusted to the best quality in the editor. That makes a lot of sense, and I probably would have known that if I knew anything about photography already! Now I know a little more -- thanks.
@@wellnesspathforme6236 Haha! You're learning and that's what is important! I wish someone had explained these things to me when I was first learning. But there weren't many photographers on CZcams yet...and the books, well...you know how those can be sometimes. I found most to be a bit too technical and inaccessible to take a beginner through the full arc of learning. We have plenty more to cover here on this channel, going to focus a lot of time and energy on tutorials, so keep with it, you'll do great!
I am great with the dark one 10:31. So why. Because the trees are perfectly green, the brighter exposure has trees going into the blue/white. So trees look perfect in 10:31. We have expectations, trees are beautiful green, sky is blue, Ferraris are red. You have to fullfill this expectations. Yes you have darker places now, but you can bring it up with graduation. Brighten the darks. The eye of the viewer will be most attracted from sharp and bright areas. So the dark picture brings the bridge in front and the most viewers will not recognize the noise in the dark areas.
Yes, I agree with you on having that full depth of contrast in the FINAL image. However, when you keep the RAW image exposed to the right, it makes for a cleaner final image in the processing, as it is much cleaner to make the image darker than to raise the dark areas to be lighter, which can introduce noise. This is why I personally like to expose to the right (ETTR) for my landscapes images.
Im confused. I watched another vlogger and he mentioned it is much better to underexpose as it is easier to edit but in this video it is the other way around. 🥴
Well, the other blogger is probably saying that underexposing is better than overexposing, as you can recover underexposed darks but not overexposed lights. But that is still not proper exposure and will introduce noise in your image in those underexposed dark areas. By exposing to the right (ETTR), as far as you can without overexposing any areas, you will always get the cleanest and best image. Hope that helps!
Hey Lori, unfortunately, the color histogram on Sony’s only show up in the REVIEW of the JPEG on the camera. The only histogram that shows in preview and when taking the photo is the luminosity histogram, no colors separated. Hope this helps!
Even after using Nikon D3300 for 6yrs, I just found out one can zoom in photo to see RGB & Luminance histogram of that zoomed area of photo. Is this possible in A7 series? Coz I am considering to upgrade to A6400/A7iii.
Hey Amit, yes, but only a luminance histogram shows on the Sony. You don't get an RGB until you review the photo on the screen afterwards. One of my greatest complaints of the Sony histograms...
@@JamesLavish I am aware of that has I saw it in your video, my question while reviewing a photo when we zoom it does it shows LRGB Histogram of that zoomed area?
I always get two peaks in my histogram. One very near the highlights and one near the lowlights with the midtones a lot lower than both peaks. What am I doing wrong?
Hey Black Panda, I don't think you are doing anything wrong. It seems you are just finding super high contrast situations in your photography (dark darks and light lights). In this instance, I would push the lights as far right as possible, exposing to the right (ETTR) without blowing any of them out. I would also shoot in RAW, if possible. That way, you can recover some of the shadows without sacrificing the highlights. Cheers!
@@JamesLavish Thanks James. I much appreciate the response and advise. I will definitely carry out this task next time I shoot in high contrast situations. Thanks again :))))
Absolutely. And you can use curves and levels adjustments in post processing to get the contrast closer to what your eyes see or what you want ... I have some videos that discuss contrast and curves that you can check out if you want...✌️
Hey Daniel, using RAW images for landscapes, I leave my zebras at 100, knowing that i still have some room right at the point where the zebras start to appear that I can still recover those highlights!
But if the histograms on the camera are for the jpg, then we really have no idea if the raw file is correctly exposed or not - correct??? Surely there is a way to see the correct histogram for the raw file??? Im amazed that Sony would miss this functionality
Well it has to render something to analyze. But it’s a good point. I will look into this and see what the real reason is...maybe ask some Sony engineers! Thanks Richard! ✌️
LOVE that you take us through the literal step-by-step process. I learn so much better when I'm shown and not just told. I know that was a lot of work, so THANK YOU!
You are SO welcome! Yes, for me, it is much easier to learn when I SEE the work, rather just listening or reading about it. So happy this helps! ✌
me too !!
Pp
@@virginialavish3458 p
I went through the same thing with overly dark exposures. Your tutorial was exactly what I needed. Thnx
Thank you! Your videos are super informative!!
Best video I’ve seen, you have a great way of explaining hands on instead of being a talking head. This is how people learn quickly and how information is parted. Thank you
Thanks so much, I really appreciate that! And I'm happy it helps!
Worrying about highlights left me too many dark pics with weird colors so I'm starting to move my histogram towards the right also (in RAW.) Thanks for the tutorial!
Yeah! Awesome John, and you are super welcome! Glad it helped! 😉✌🏻
Question how are you verified with 20 subscribers
Painstakingly explained and more importantly, shown. Lovely effort. Subscribed!
Now my cameras are nothing fancy but one of them has this feature where any highlight that is pure white flashes when the pic is taken. Its very good feature.
Just what I needed, thank you.
*_Great video my friend! I really enjoyed it, thanks for sharing!_* 😀👊
Thanks so much! 🙏✌️
This video was super super helpful. Liked and subbed, cheers
Thank you, very much !
Thankyou so much, this was a great tutorial, it's was so helpful to watch and learn from you.
Superb. I watched a couple of videos on this subject. This one is quite educating, useful.
Love your videos and especially the one on the Xperia ii series cameras. I have just purchased the Xperia 5 ii specifically for the camera and your video was great for understanding how to use it properly. Thank you!
Great to hear Kevin. Thanks so much!
This is brilliant.. I will watch it again for sure.. THANK YOU ..
You're welcome! And I'm so happy I can help you learn from afar! 😉
NICE! That was informative _and_ instructive! 👏
Thanks Dan! Glad it was helpful! ✌🏻
This was invaluable to me
Great video! Lots to learn in this vid
Histograms/Zebras/Blinkies...What's your favorite way to see you aren't blowing out your highlights??
Great information in your tutorial. I think this will help me to get better results from my Sony. I was wondering what metering mode you used to photograph under the bridge? Thank you.
Thanlyou😊👆
You're welcome, Matthew!✌
Really good!
very good tutorial. easy to understand and well presented.10/10
Thanks so much Garth, I really appreciate that! 🙏✌
Great. Prior to this video, I didn't have a clue.
So happy it helped! Thank you! ✌
Fantastic video! Keep it up
Thank you so much for this. I'm a hands on learner and this is the most helpful video I've seen yet.
Hey Candicane! You're super welcome and thank you so much. I'm so happy to hear this helped and sincerely appreciate it!
Tnks
Welcome! ✌️
thank you very much! Helped a lot! :)
Great! You're super welcome!
This is so helpful! Thank you for posting and taking the time! Question… you had the “zebras” still when you increased the exposure but it seemed perfect anyway. Just ignore the zebras in that situation?
Not sure about the usage of zebra, at 8:25, he checked it wasn't blown out, meaning the bright part has details preserved. Hence the histogram is accurate.
I love this i want to be like you so much you do so great.
Aww thank you! Keep practicing and you will be great! 😉✌🏻
5:48 so just to be sure, when you were changing the exposure with the “stops” you were changing the shutter speed correct? I’m new to all this so just wondering. Trying to use these skills for video. Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for the great explanation. I have a question that extends the information presented in this video. You took your photos at +0.3 and +0.7, and they looked significantly different. What would you do if the "perfect exposure" was between those two exposures?
Great question. I would choose the highest level of exposure as long as it was not blown out anywhere, then just adjust as needed in post!
@@JamesLavish IIRC, the +0.7 wasn't blown out (but could be verified after viewing both photos in an editor), so that would be the keep and adjusted to the best quality in the editor. That makes a lot of sense, and I probably would have known that if I knew anything about photography already! Now I know a little more -- thanks.
@@wellnesspathforme6236 Haha! You're learning and that's what is important! I wish someone had explained these things to me when I was first learning. But there weren't many photographers on CZcams yet...and the books, well...you know how those can be sometimes. I found most to be a bit too technical and inaccessible to take a beginner through the full arc of learning. We have plenty more to cover here on this channel, going to focus a lot of time and energy on tutorials, so keep with it, you'll do great!
I am great with the dark one 10:31. So why. Because the trees are perfectly green, the brighter exposure has trees going into the blue/white. So trees look perfect in 10:31. We have expectations, trees are beautiful green, sky is blue, Ferraris are red. You have to fullfill this expectations. Yes you have darker places now, but you can bring it up with graduation. Brighten the darks. The eye of the viewer will be most attracted from sharp and bright areas. So the dark picture brings the bridge in front and the most viewers will not recognize the noise in the dark areas.
Yes, I agree with you on having that full depth of contrast in the FINAL image. However, when you keep the RAW image exposed to the right, it makes for a cleaner final image in the processing, as it is much cleaner to make the image darker than to raise the dark areas to be lighter, which can introduce noise. This is why I personally like to expose to the right (ETTR) for my landscapes images.
You nail it .....
A year later a thanks from supah films 👍🏾
Im confused. I watched another vlogger and he mentioned it is much better to underexpose as it is easier to edit but in this video it is the other way around. 🥴
Well, the other blogger is probably saying that underexposing is better than overexposing, as you can recover underexposed darks but not overexposed lights. But that is still not proper exposure and will introduce noise in your image in those underexposed dark areas. By exposing to the right (ETTR), as far as you can without overexposing any areas, you will always get the cleanest and best image. Hope that helps!
i am not getting the color histogram on my preview Sony a7r ii, what settings do I need to fix?
Hey Lori, unfortunately, the color histogram on Sony’s only show up in the REVIEW of the JPEG on the camera. The only histogram that shows in preview and when taking the photo is the luminosity histogram, no colors separated. Hope this helps!
Even after using Nikon D3300 for 6yrs, I just found out one can zoom in photo to see RGB & Luminance histogram of that zoomed area of photo. Is this possible in A7 series? Coz I am considering to upgrade to A6400/A7iii.
Hey Amit, yes, but only a luminance histogram shows on the Sony. You don't get an RGB until you review the photo on the screen afterwards. One of my greatest complaints of the Sony histograms...
@@JamesLavish I am aware of that has I saw it in your video, my question while reviewing a photo when we zoom it does it shows LRGB Histogram of that zoomed area?
I always get two peaks in my histogram. One very near the highlights and one near the lowlights with the midtones a lot lower than both peaks. What am I doing wrong?
Hey Black Panda, I don't think you are doing anything wrong. It seems you are just finding super high contrast situations in your photography (dark darks and light lights). In this instance, I would push the lights as far right as possible, exposing to the right (ETTR) without blowing any of them out. I would also shoot in RAW, if possible. That way, you can recover some of the shadows without sacrificing the highlights. Cheers!
@@JamesLavish Thanks James. I much appreciate the response and advise. I will definitely carry out this task next time I shoot in high contrast situations. Thanks again :))))
Absolutely. And you can use curves and levels adjustments in post processing to get the contrast closer to what your eyes see or what you want ... I have some videos that discuss contrast and curves that you can check out if you want...✌️
What zebra setting for this sky landscape shot recommend ?
Hey Daniel, using RAW images for landscapes, I leave my zebras at 100, knowing that i still have some room right at the point where the zebras start to appear that I can still recover those highlights!
@@JamesLavish thanks, how about 107, should he oke? Over or not?
@@DanielTuriman Where are you seeing this reading? In the camera settings for minimum Zebra appearance?
@@JamesLavish custom zebra setting
@@DanielTuriman Which camera are you using?
But if the histograms on the camera are for the jpg, then we really have no idea if the raw file is correctly exposed or not - correct??? Surely there is a way to see the correct histogram for the raw file??? Im amazed that Sony would miss this functionality
Well it has to render something to analyze. But it’s a good point. I will look into this and see what the real reason is...maybe ask some Sony engineers! Thanks Richard! ✌️
Bracketing.
Lol well if you would have no idea I’d it’s blown out or not maybe it doesn’t matter at the end result?
+
nope You lost me