Photography Exposure Techniques that Shouldn't be Ignored!
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
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Today, I will discuss how changing several camera settings can help achieve more consistent exposure results when photographing challenging scenes.
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We need raw histogram. Sign the petition today
I always learn a lot from your videos, thanks for the great work!
Interesting - thanks for this. I've never used film simulations for my viewfinder for the very reason you point out here. I never really thought about the histogram being different between the viewfinder and what you first see when you open lightroom - it makes a whole lot of sense though. One other thing I always have set as a default on my X-T4 is to always have the exposure compensation dial set at -3 - this helps ensure that I dont end up with blown out highlights - I find this helps a lot.
Thought you’d never mention Tony and his amazing free linear profiles! Wish you could get it for your viewfinder.
I’ve started to expose to the right more lately and find I’m getting better results.
Interesting, thanks. Some ways to look at exposure I had not considered before. What I have been doing is, what I suspect many are doing. That is, when one downloads the photos and uses Lightroom or Luminar or any other software, as you say you then notice whether you have blown highlights or shadows too deep. My solution has often been to return to location and use triple shot (or even 5 shot) bracketing and then merge in Photoshop later. This also gives the advantage of a higher dynamic range shot than is natural to your camera, and sometimes this may need toning down a bit. But that second trip to location gets the shots that were spoiled first time. In fact, if i felt that I would be unable to return easily, or it was the last day at a location, I would set up this bracketing anyway. Yes, it takes 3 time or 5 times the space on your SD card or whatever, but after the merging of shots you keep the new basic file before editing and make that your new digital negative (DNG). The only thing complicated in this approach is learning the merge function in the software, otherwise its a set it and forget it.
Thanks, Ian. Good advice.😊
Great video. This is much needed information. Great images.
Thanks 🙏
Thank you Ian. I never knew about this. I did know about shooting in raw and having a flat picture but you also gave me more info that I can apply in the future. Good video.
Surely the best solution would be to change the camera settings in preferences in LrC, so your imported RAW images can be camera specific (e.g. Canon -Neutral / Canon Standard etc), this would prevent Adobe applying its own colour presets to imported RAW images ? Just a thought, but I have this set up on my computer, so the colour preset matches exactly to the colour profile set on my camera.
This, you can set Lightroom to default to what was used in camera. Simple.
Same here, whatever profile I shoot with (normally Nikon Flat or Neutral) is matched in LrC automatically when I import my images. I must have set that preference years ago and forgotten about it. I installed the TK linear profiles for my cameras and they are an option to have but I have not often needed to use them except on a few occasions.
The trouble is, not every photo suits a film simulation of camera profile as a base to work from. Like a lot of people, I prefer to start my edits from one of the adobe profiles,
Great explanation and soothing images! Thanks Ian Dr C
Thanks
Wonderful images Ian. Clearly I'll never stop learning especially given my bouncing between my Canon APS-C work horse and Fujifilm X, just for fun, camera. Really great info on the Fuji. That is very helpful. It's taken me a few months just to get my Fuji kit right so I'm able to pick it up easily and even shoot one handed, while learning the new-to-me Fuji system. Thank you for sharing your images, knowledge and experience. I really enjoy your channel. Cheers
Thanks for a really useful tip.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the tips and explanations, Ian. I am going to perform some tests and experiments using the info you shared here.
Thanks, glad it was helpful 👍
Some great tips and will check out the linear profiles for Lightroom ... congrats on 50K subscribers.
Thanks so much! 🙂
Great video Ian.
Thank you for the excellent information.
I will check out Tony's information about this.
It looks like you and Henry are having a great time at Loch Maree.
We are going there this year to do some photography.
Great image's as usual.
Look forward to the next one.
Glad it was helpful!, I hope you enjoy Loch Maree as much as I did 👍
I set up a personal profile with the same white balance and film simulation and basic editing which means 3/4 of the work is done with one click .
Assuming the camera profiles are in lightroom you can set lightroom to default to the profile you used in camera regardless of what profile you used. No need to then faff around. Prefrecnes>Presets> Raw Defaults> Global> Camera Settings. Then you can set overrides if you wish per camera.
If you use your camera manufactures proprietary software then you won't need to fiddle with Lightroom as all of your camera settings and your manufacturers designed software will match what you see when you are out shooting? Interestingly, when using proprietary software if you shoot RAW and JPEG there is not much difference in the look of the files. You can learn a lot about exposure, focusing and camera setting this way. The interesting thing about this is that, you can tweak your cameras setting in the proprietary software get the look you want and then load them to your camera.
Things to ponder: you can do film simulation bracketing, i.e. choose three simulations to use at the same time. Now, which simulation's JPEG/histogram will you see in the camera's display? ;-0 Anyway, the suggesting to use natural preview seems to be the best advice. Thanks!
Ian are you using a different CPL, looks like yours had something sticking out to help rotate it. Are you no longer using Kase filters? Excellent video and advice as usual, I am off to experiment with jpg profiles
I'm testing out Nisi swift filters at the moment but I still use Kase filters as well
Hello, what profile do you use on your standard or NS camera?
Hi Ian, interesting topic, thanks for collecting the info together. Some brands offer the option, as on my Nikon Z system to turn off live view. I just had a look in the manual, it states that white balance, exposure compensation and picture control will no be shown. One would expect the histogram to be clean as much a possible, but does that hold true? Any experience on that, also in the community?
Natural live view on fuji cameras shows the natural histogram
100% agree to use a flat camera profile for your histogram. Definitely do not agree to adjust the jpg profile to match the basic LR colour profile.
Capture One has some fantastic camera profiles that they built by testing each camera model. They give accurate representation of the scene.
I made it to 6:57 before stopping, so I’m not sure if you offered C1 as an alternative, but it’s a fantastic RAW processor and well worth the effort.
Having used CO1 for years i switched back to Adobe after their change in perpetual licensing policy. No regrets to be back at Adobe. It offers solutions that are still in infancy stage at CO. I just can’t support nor recommend using Capture One any longer.
A JPEG histogram will never match a raw file histogram as the raw file has a greater dynamic range than the camera JPEG. Also, a raw file editor has to apply some processing to actually create an image that can be displayed on the computer monitor that you use to edit your raw files. I don't use Adobe Lightroom, rather darktable which although it also necessarily does some preprocessing such as demosaicing and raw black/white point etc., in fact 11 separate adjustments in total and this leaves a much 'flatter' - unprocessed look than the camera JPEG giving you a rather more neutral editing starting point.
So trying to match the histograms is always going to fall short of a perfect match. However, getting the in camera JPEG histogram 'correct' (i.e. ETTR) means you err on the safe side and if you want to overexpose a touch more, your raw file will probably not have clipped highlights. Of course all this assumes you are using the histogram to produce the 'perfectly exposed image'. Useful advice for beginners perhaps but maybe you are trying to produce an ultra high key image with clipped highlights for a very simplistic effect or the opposite with harsh crushed blacks for great mood. I would argue then the histogram is not very useful
However, I do agree that setting the camera 'picture style' to be the most neutral is good practice for getting a feel for the final image you have imagined when you took the shot.
I don't use Lightroom so do you have suggestions for people like me?
which software do you use?