Foley Belsaw 1055 Sharp All - Circular saw blade sharpening

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  • čas přidán 8. 09. 2024

Komentáře • 17

  • @eddiekulp1241
    @eddiekulp1241 Před 2 lety +1

    Used one for 9 years in my younger says in my dad's saw shop . Good memories

  • @EricMosegard
    @EricMosegard Před rokem

    Thank you very much for this video and yes it would be helpful if the camera was on a tripod. Just a little bit wider shot with less movement
    Great explanation

  • @michaelbarrett1914
    @michaelbarrett1914 Před rokem +2

    You can also buy carbide tips in bulk and when you knock a tip off you just weld a new tip onto that tooth of the blade. There isn't any need to throw the blade away just because you are missing a few teeth. You can remove all the carbide tips when they are all very worn, weld on all new tips & sharpen them and you have a blade that is like a high end blade for a fraction of the cost.

    • @jasonwilliams8321
      @jasonwilliams8321  Před rokem

      I am aware of the process but I am not familiar with it. It sounds like a lot of work but if not I would appreciate more info.

  • @WILSON.1
    @WILSON.1 Před 3 měsíci +1

    Awesome video. How do you decide which grinding wheels to use? I picked one of these 1055’s up second hand and it came with a whole box of different grinding wheels.

    • @jasonwilliams8321
      @jasonwilliams8321  Před 3 měsíci +1

      On the left you are pretty much stuck with the little wheel. The right hand side (larger one) can be used with a variety of different wheels based upon your needs and not all of them need to be Belsaw ones ( I regularly hook up a wire brush wheel and a diamond wheel to it). If you are sharpening a carbide tipped saw blade you are going to need a diamond wheel as even with the greenies you are just going to scrape of parts of the wheel and still end up with a dull blade. Just experiment and decide on what you need for any application. The right hand side is pretty much allocated for circular saw blade sharpening but it can be modified to suit most any other needs.

    • @WILSON.1
      @WILSON.1 Před 3 měsíci

      @@jasonwilliams8321 Thanks!

  • @ruangangler5396
    @ruangangler5396 Před 2 lety

    good job brader

  • @Nobody-Nowhere-USA
    @Nobody-Nowhere-USA Před 2 lety +1

    Never, Ever put a C clamp or anything like it on any grinding wheel!!!! Shop Safety 101!!!!!

    • @jasonwilliams8321
      @jasonwilliams8321  Před 2 lety +1

      Been doing it for 30 years. Never had any problems on this or any other grinder because it is only tight enough to keep the wheel from moving. There is no way to stop the wheel otherwise and you cannot get the nut to release in order to remove the wheel. Just use common sense. It's like the stern admonitions from 1960's shop class videos that warned us not to use a flathead screwdriver to pry the top off of a paint can.

    • @Nobody-Nowhere-USA
      @Nobody-Nowhere-USA Před 2 lety +2

      @@jasonwilliams8321 it only takes one grìnding wheel disintegrating to learn why you never want to risk inducing a crack into any grinding wheel! It's ok if you do it but I would not teach others such practices. For heaven sakes if you are going to this , ring test the wheel every time! I change wheels several times a day on machines the have no arbor lock, I grab the wheel and remove the nut with a wrench, if it's really tight I wear a leather glove. Not trying to be an ass, just worried about your safety.

    • @jasonwilliams8321
      @jasonwilliams8321  Před 2 lety +1

      @@Nobody-Nowhere-USA Thanks for stressing that you aren't trying to be a dickhead. Guys who come on here looking for trouble generally have their posts promptly deleted. I do test my wheels every time I put a new one on as I do my saw blades. Having worked in a pattern shop for 5 years I've seen many accidents and equipment failures. Some you can mitigate others just happen no matter what steps you take to prevent it. The Sharp All makes almost impossible to remove a grinding wheel by hand only for some reason. Even in the instructional video available from Foley Belsaw they state that you are to only hand tighten the arbor nut on the wheel. Still it is impossible to remove by hand alone (and I am pretty strong).

    • @Nobody-Nowhere-USA
      @Nobody-Nowhere-USA Před 2 lety +1

      @@jasonwilliams8321 yah I've got one to and i will admit it is difficult to remove to nut but it can be done. Funny you mention being a Patternmaker, I'm a Tool and Die Maker that actually worked as a Patternmaker for 5-6 years in the làte 80's early 90's! Most people would have no clue what the job entails! Skills I learned in the pattern/plaster shop have come in handy my whole life! I'm sure you know what you are doing. We just have a minor deference of opinion in one thing. I will keep watching, always interested in learning new ways of doing things! Stay safe and keep making content.

    • @michaelbarrett1914
      @michaelbarrett1914 Před rokem +2

      @@Nobody-Nowhere-USA I was concerned about this one step as well and wondered why you didn't use a piece of hard wood to wedge between the wheel and the guard to break the tension on the nut. I would be much more worried about a crack being developed due to the clamp. But if this is your practice you do your March to your music my man. I have just had that price Murphy ride my ass my entire life and I know he wouldn't let me get away with it. Liked the video. I have an opportunity to buy one of these Belsaws in this model for $200 so I wanted to watch this video to see if I thought this woukd be worth it.

  • @eddiekulp1241
    @eddiekulp1241 Před 2 lety +1

    Its 1973 all over again