Again, great video. Not only the subject, but the care/quality of the production. Having a beautiful 300Tdi (wich was locally produced here in Brazil from 1998 til 2005), just astonished with the jump in complexity that the Td5 was... Thanks, D3Sshooter! Keep making more of these beautiful and very informative videos about our passion, the Defenders!!
HI FLEMISH, I HAD A WEIRD NO START. I THOUGHT I LEARNED FROM YOU . BECAUSE I WORKED SUCCEFFULLY ON MY MF165 FROM YOUR TEACHINGS.AND THAT GAVE ME COURAGE. NOW I TAKE ATTEMPTS. LET ME TELL YOU THE FACTS ABOUT THIS CAR. 1. THE CAR IS FORD 1.4 DIESEL ENGINE FORD FIGO 2016 MODEL. 2. THE CAR IS CRANCK NO START 3. ALL FUSES AND RELAYS ARE FINE 4. THE REV COUNT RESPONSE ON CRANCKING 5. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, ACTUALLY NOTHING STRANGE IN THE DASHBOARD 6. NO DIESEL TO THE ENGINE 7. WHEN I UNPLUG THE HARNESS ON THE PCM THE CAR BECOMES " NO CRANCK NO START" . THIS IS WHAT I DID: I THOUGHT THE PRIMARY PROBLEM IS FUEL, THEN I DECIDED TO ATTACK IT FIRST. I QUICKLY OPENED THE AIR INTAKE PIPE. THEN I SPRAYED PROPANE INTO IT WHILE SOMEONE WAS TRYING TO START THE ENGINE.( I WAS SPRAYING PROPANE IN THE PIPE BEFORE THE SENSORS NOT AFTER THEM. WOW, THE CAR DID NOT START. I THEN TOOK THECAR TO ANOTHER MECHANIC AROUND. AFTER A WEEK HE SAID THE PROBLEM OF THE CAR IS "NO COMMUNICATION). BUT MY QUESTION IS HOW CAN IT BE NO "COMM" WHILE THE REV COUNT RESPONDS. HOW COME IS NO COMM WHEREAS WHEN I UNPLUG THE HARNESS ON THE PCM THE CAR BECOMES " NO CRANCK NO START" WHAT DO YOU THINK M.B.S MOSHITOA (S AFRICA)
Amazing ... these legendary cars served man so long period of years the best they could. Now they are full of electronics that supposed to help prevent environmental pollution how it is claimed amon all the rest. It's a pure scam to ruin the simplicity and low cost of a car available to ordinary man ... who needed it as a tool to work. Today, it has become a luxury for those who pay well. I used to own them my whole life long. But these, modern, are no longer the Land Rovers at all.
WOW WOW WONDERFUL FLEMISH; this is the video i wanted long ago. you are talking about things that i wanted you to talk about, just i was unaware you had a video on which you are talking about vital parts of the engine like ecu, crank sensors etc. i wish you can go futher talking about this things. you gave a very important info which i have long been asking you about. and that is if you want to know which wire is which you need to look from workshop manual. i think that is where you mostly find wiring diagrams. but my question is does it have all wiring diagrams for all cars. or must one buy it each year to get the most updated diagrams. I THINK NOW YOU MUST ALSO MAKE US A VIDEO ON HOW TO USE WORKSHOP MANUAL. as you know. i know there are many people on internet to explain things but i like them being explained by you. LOOKING FORWARD TO SEE THAT. M.B.S MOSHITOA (S AFRICA) THANKS MILLION TIMES.LONG LIVE FLEMISH LONG LIVE
Hi great videos. By any chance could you do a video on taking apart a td5 in tank fuel pump and cleaning and servicing? Seem everybody just swaps them for a new part.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, it's impressive how you make appear such operations easy to me 😅 Let me ask you a question regarding the power input. It happens since a couple of months that after a full throttle period as a overtaking manoeuvre or hill street, even if I release the throttle pedal the engine is still remaining high for let's say 1 second or so, that make it uncomfortable to push. It seams that a old Lady is seating behind the steering wheel 😂 Is there any sensor missing the right measurement? Thank you in advance for your answers anyway. Regards from Sicily, Diego 110 Td5 2005
Great video - it is so clearly explained that it inspired me to try and troubleshoot our own Defender TD5 problem.... however I am now stuck and and wonder if you have any ideas that might help. Symptoms are it will turn over but not start. Actually you know as soon as you turn the ignition on there is a problem as the fuel pump does not run and no glow plug light on instrument panel. By bypassing the fuel pump relay you can make the fuel pump work but it still will not start. It seems the ECU is not telling the fuel pump / glow plug relays to engage, despite everything having power / fuel. So we thought maybe an ECU failure, but we have had the ECU checked by a specialist and “no fault found” so now we are wondering.... what “vital sign” might be missing as an input to the ECU that would stop the fuel pump from running even when you turn the ignition on and before you engage the starter? Any suggestions would be very gratefully received.
Thanks for the comments, In principle the ECU does not deal with the fuel pomp. That pomp should turn on as soon as the ignition is on. The fuel pressure regulator could be faulty or stuck , so the fuel pressure is to low. Does that Fuel pomp make a wining noise ? If that pomp does not turn with ignition on check all the fuses, relays and cabling as it should run. For the rest it could be that the injectors are not getting the correct timing/pulse... that could be an issue with MAP/MAF sensors... or even the ECU not set for the code of the injectors. Use diagnostic reader , they are not expensive and will tell you what is wrong for the map/maf etc...
@@D3Sshooter thanks very much for the reply. Finally we found the problem which was a poor connection in an ECU ground cable where it passes through a "header". We were thrown off the track as it passed a continuity test but after a test with a power probe, it became clear that all four ground cables from the black ECU plug had poor ground connections... as these four combined in a header with an output on a single cable it became clear where the fault was. After cutting all the relevant ground cables from the header and creating a new one the problem was fixed (just today). I neglected to mention in my original question that we could not read the ECU diagnostics when the problem happened (first intermittent then permanent) and perhaps this explains it.... the ECU was not able to run properly even though it had tested as ok at a lab and hence no fuel pump / starting even though it turned over. I guess we should have spotted this earlier, but was not obvious what vital signs to check as outputs from the ECU before the vehicle was running. Really great videos videos - thanks.
that is true as you state i was just looking at one injector signal and the crankshaft sensor pulses i am making a vid where you can see the right times of all
hi bassassin txs, velleman hps140, they have all kind of low cost devices for measuring electronics. you can get it on line . note that the laptop is not part of it, but for that i used the wireless two channel model
Another great video; I have a question for you, I purchased a 1999 Land Rover Defender 90 TD5 from Germany, it is in very good condition but I one issue. When the engine is cold and I drive off applying power there is a rattle noise from the engine, after a while when the engine is warm the noise goes away. I have taken it to a diesel mechanic and he told me that it was 1,3 & 4 fuel injectors that was the problem. I removed all 5 injectors and sent them off , the injectors came back with no issues, they were all working fine. Do you have any idea what my problem noise is? Kind regards, Martin
Hi Martin, rattle noise could point to the injection timing. the ECU might get the wrong data from one of the sensors. MAP, MAF, temp etc..when the engine is cold. Or it could be an issue with the injectors ( did you place the same coded injectors in the right place ? You need to, and if the injectors are new or mixed, you will need to set / code them by programming the ECU). A little bit of rattle is OK..
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for getting back to me; I have not checked all the components, MAP, MAF etc but will do, I did mark the location of all injectors and re-installed them in the same place. I sent the injectors off to a speciality company for testing and rebuild and they all came back fine. The guy that looked at the rattle said it was injector knock and servicing the injectors would correct the problem, but it did not.
Check in the red connector to your ecu, if it’s got oil in it you need to change the injector harness. Loads of vids of how to do this, very common td5 issue!
I have a question . I have a 2005 TD5 110 . Too much dark fumes coming out . A mechanix traded an old ICU and no more fumes . He called today saying he could not fix ou ECU . We have to go back and trade back :( . Is an ECU fixable ? Excuse my (UN) knowledge on. The matter . I feel stuck and do not know what to do
Hi Matt, when you connect the OBD2 connector, is there power on the diagnostics plug ?, if not the there might be blown fuse that feeds the ECU.. Especially that it wont start..I assume that the engine is cranked and turns on the starter motor.. If the fuses are good, remove the connectors on the ECU and check for any trace of oil. It is a well known issue that engine oil creeps through the wiring-harness as the seal in the cylinder head for the injector harness starts to leak over time. Oil will creep up to the ECU and get inside. If you see oil ( you need to look care-full as its not a puddle) on the ECU connector pins and the wires, then you have found the problem, Clean all the oil, get a new injector harness and seal, in the worse case you will need a new ecu... I hope that it helps.. but first check the fuses
Again, great video. Not only the subject, but the care/quality of the production.
Having a beautiful 300Tdi (wich was locally produced here in Brazil from 1998 til 2005), just astonished with the jump in complexity that the Td5 was...
Thanks, D3Sshooter! Keep making more of these beautiful and very informative videos about our passion, the Defenders!!
txs
Really helpful again! Very clear and comprehensive ! Did bring a lot light into the dark on my side! Cheers Axel
Axel Cordes txs
Great video. At last, Someone who knows what he is talking about. Found this very useful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video and advice!. There is a good tester made by a company called Bluedriver and I think it has an oscilloscope too. but am not positive.
Great informative video, thanks!
TXS for the comments my pleasure
HI FLEMISH, I HAD A WEIRD NO START. I THOUGHT I LEARNED FROM YOU . BECAUSE I WORKED SUCCEFFULLY ON MY MF165 FROM YOUR TEACHINGS.AND THAT GAVE ME COURAGE. NOW I TAKE ATTEMPTS. LET ME TELL YOU THE FACTS ABOUT THIS CAR.
1. THE CAR IS FORD 1.4 DIESEL ENGINE FORD FIGO 2016 MODEL.
2. THE CAR IS CRANCK NO START
3. ALL FUSES AND RELAYS ARE FINE
4. THE REV COUNT RESPONSE ON CRANCKING
5. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, ACTUALLY NOTHING STRANGE IN THE DASHBOARD
6. NO DIESEL TO THE ENGINE
7. WHEN I UNPLUG THE HARNESS ON THE PCM THE CAR BECOMES " NO CRANCK NO START"
.
THIS IS WHAT I DID: I THOUGHT THE PRIMARY PROBLEM IS FUEL, THEN I DECIDED TO ATTACK IT FIRST. I QUICKLY OPENED THE AIR INTAKE PIPE. THEN I SPRAYED PROPANE INTO IT WHILE SOMEONE WAS TRYING TO START THE ENGINE.( I WAS SPRAYING PROPANE IN THE PIPE BEFORE THE SENSORS NOT AFTER THEM.
WOW, THE CAR DID NOT START.
I THEN TOOK THECAR TO ANOTHER MECHANIC AROUND. AFTER A WEEK HE SAID THE PROBLEM OF THE CAR IS "NO COMMUNICATION). BUT MY QUESTION IS HOW CAN IT BE NO "COMM" WHILE THE REV COUNT RESPONDS.
HOW COME IS NO COMM WHEREAS WHEN I UNPLUG THE HARNESS ON THE PCM THE CAR BECOMES " NO CRANCK NO START"
WHAT DO YOU THINK
M.B.S MOSHITOA (S AFRICA)
Txs for the comments,
This video is very interesting and informative
Glad you think so!
Such a good video
Thanks for the comments
Thanks for info bud
TXS for the comments my pleasure
Amazing ... these legendary cars served man so long period of years the best they could. Now they are full of electronics that supposed to help prevent environmental pollution how it is claimed amon all the rest. It's a pure scam to ruin the simplicity and low cost of a car available to ordinary man ... who needed it as a tool to work.
Today, it has become a luxury for those who pay well.
I used to own them my whole life long.
But these, modern, are no longer the Land Rovers at all.
WOW WOW WONDERFUL FLEMISH; this is the video i wanted long ago. you are talking about things that i wanted you to talk about, just i was unaware you had a video on which you are talking about vital parts of the engine like ecu, crank sensors etc. i wish you can go futher talking about this things.
you gave a very important info which i have long been asking you about. and that is if you want to know which wire is which you need to look from workshop manual.
i think that is where you mostly find wiring diagrams. but my question is does it have all wiring diagrams for all cars. or must one buy it each year to get the most updated diagrams.
I THINK NOW YOU MUST ALSO MAKE US A VIDEO ON HOW TO USE WORKSHOP MANUAL.
as you know. i know there are many people on internet to explain things but i like them being explained by you.
LOOKING FORWARD TO SEE THAT.
M.B.S MOSHITOA (S AFRICA)
THANKS MILLION TIMES.LONG LIVE FLEMISH LONG LIVE
Thanks and happy that I could help you
Hi great videos.
By any chance could you do a video on taking apart a td5 in tank fuel pump and cleaning and servicing?
Seem everybody just swaps them for a new part.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, it's impressive how you make appear such operations easy to me 😅
Let me ask you a question regarding the power input. It happens since a couple of months that after a full throttle period as a overtaking manoeuvre or hill street, even if I release the throttle pedal the engine is still remaining high for let's say 1 second or so, that make it uncomfortable to push. It seams that a old Lady is seating behind the steering wheel 😂
Is there any sensor missing the right measurement?
Thank you in advance for your answers anyway.
Regards from Sicily, Diego
110 Td5 2005
Can you please show us how to remove and replace a high pressure diesel pump on a defender Puma td5 engine
Great video - it is so clearly explained that it inspired me to try and troubleshoot our own Defender TD5 problem.... however I am now stuck and and wonder if you have any ideas that might help. Symptoms are it will turn over but not start. Actually you know as soon as you turn the ignition on there is a problem as the fuel pump does not run and no glow plug light on instrument panel. By bypassing the fuel pump relay you can make the fuel pump work but it still will not start. It seems the ECU is not telling the fuel pump / glow plug relays to engage, despite everything having power / fuel. So we thought maybe an ECU failure, but we have had the ECU checked by a specialist and “no fault found” so now we are wondering.... what “vital sign” might be missing as an input to the ECU that would stop the fuel pump from running even when you turn the ignition on and before you engage the starter? Any suggestions would be very gratefully received.
Thanks for the comments, In principle the ECU does not deal with the fuel pomp. That pomp should turn on as soon as the ignition is on. The fuel pressure regulator could be faulty or stuck , so the fuel pressure is to low. Does that Fuel pomp make a wining noise ? If that pomp does not turn with ignition on check all the fuses, relays and cabling as it should run. For the rest it could be that the injectors are not getting the correct timing/pulse... that could be an issue with MAP/MAF sensors... or even the ECU not set for the code of the injectors. Use diagnostic reader , they are not expensive and will tell you what is wrong for the map/maf etc...
@@D3Sshooter thanks very much for the reply. Finally we found the problem which was a poor connection in an ECU ground cable where it passes through a "header". We were thrown off the track as it passed a continuity test but after a test with a power probe, it became clear that all four ground cables from the black ECU plug had poor ground connections... as these four combined in a header with an output on a single cable it became clear where the fault was. After cutting all the relevant ground cables from the header and creating a new one the problem was fixed (just today). I neglected to mention in my original question that we could not read the ECU diagnostics when the problem happened (first intermittent then permanent) and perhaps this explains it.... the ECU was not able to run properly even though it had tested as ok at a lab and hence no fuel pump / starting even though it turned over. I guess we should have spotted this earlier, but was not obvious what vital signs to check as outputs from the ECU before the vehicle was running. Really great videos videos - thanks.
Shouldn't the injectors fire only every other time the engine reaches TDC presuming it's a four stroke cycle? Thanks for a great video.
that is true as you state i was just looking at one injector signal and the crankshaft sensor pulses i am making a vid where you can see the right times of all
Thanks very informative where do you get the small wave scope and data logger from
hi bassassin txs, velleman hps140, they have all kind of low cost devices for measuring electronics. you can get it on line . note that the laptop is not part of it, but for that i used the wireless two channel model
D3Sshooter thanks I shall check them out
Another great video; I have a question for you, I purchased a 1999 Land Rover Defender 90 TD5 from Germany, it is in very good condition but I one issue. When the engine is cold and I drive off applying power there is a rattle noise from the engine, after a while when the engine is warm the noise goes away. I have taken it to a diesel mechanic and he told me that it was 1,3 & 4 fuel injectors that was the problem. I removed all 5 injectors and sent them off , the injectors came back with no issues, they were all working fine. Do you have any idea what my problem noise is? Kind regards,
Martin
Hi Martin, rattle noise could point to the injection timing. the ECU might get the wrong data from one of the sensors. MAP, MAF, temp etc..when the engine is cold. Or it could be an issue with the injectors ( did you place the same coded injectors in the right place ? You need to, and if the injectors are new or mixed, you will need to set / code them by programming the ECU). A little bit of rattle is OK..
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for getting back to me; I have not checked all the components, MAP, MAF etc but will do, I did mark the location of all injectors and re-installed them in the same place. I sent the injectors off to a speciality company for testing and rebuild and they all came back fine. The guy that looked at the rattle said it was injector knock and servicing the injectors would correct the problem, but it did not.
Check in the red connector to your ecu, if it’s got oil in it you need to change the injector harness. Loads of vids of how to do this, very common td5 issue!
I am going to buy an engine TD5 with ecu remap can we change the ecu to a normal ecu?
Yes you can, as long as you load the original map... Note that you will need to get the injector letters and numbers correct
I have a question . I have a 2005 TD5 110 . Too much dark fumes coming out . A mechanix traded an old ICU and no more fumes . He called today saying he could not fix ou ECU . We have to go back and trade back :( . Is an ECU fixable ? Excuse my (UN) knowledge on. The matter . I feel stuck and do not know what to do
You can repair an ECU, but that is an electronics engineer job ..if he has all the shematics and code and chipsets... else its a swap out
Does the defender TDCi register its odometer on the ECU or Cluster? What if odometer looses its display? Can you check it by the ECU?
No its does not do so on the TD5
My defender won’t start put a computer on the ECU it reads nothing keep saying cannot connect don’t know if my ECU shot or not
Hi Matt, when you connect the OBD2 connector, is there power on the diagnostics plug ?, if not the there might be blown fuse that feeds the ECU.. Especially that it wont start..I assume that the engine is cranked and turns on the starter motor.. If the fuses are good, remove the connectors on the ECU and check for any trace of oil. It is a well known issue that engine oil creeps through the wiring-harness as the seal in the cylinder head for the injector harness starts to leak over time. Oil will creep up to the ECU and get inside. If you see oil ( you need to look care-full as its not a puddle) on the ECU connector pins and the wires, then you have found the problem, Clean all the oil, get a new injector harness and seal, in the worse case you will need a new ecu... I hope that it helps.. but first check the fuses
Your fuel pump sounds like it's on its way out. Whining just before you crank it over.
Andy Spillman yes indeed. Just needed to bleed the air as the small bleed valve on the diesel filter was faulty