Joshua Tree Challenge - Climbing The Rusty Trifecta
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Excellent times in Joshua Tree with two of my best friends in the whole world! What is climbing with friends if not making up stupid challenges and pushing each other farther?
We climbed:
O'kelley's Crack 5.10c
Wangerbanger 5.11c
The Inquisition v6
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Removes the small blocks then casually steps off the enormous talus block ... priceless.
Thank you for disassembling the cheater stones, glad someone still has dignity in climbing.
haha right?? we were shocked.
The pile comes and goes.
I've cranked my fingers on that start many times, sometimes wished the slammer crack went all the way to the ground!
don't be an elitist - different climbing levels - people are just trying to have fun. You also used the large boulder which was the same height as the stacked rocks.....
@@scottmartin7213 yeah but that's a valid choice and it's obviously not intended. but stacking rocks just to avoid one move (you need to get stronger) is braindead and goes completely against leave no trace ethics in the outdoors. and yes you could say bolts and anchors and chalk marks also do this but we're splitting hairs. unless you are making the landing more safe by moving rocks into holes for pads to go on you're being a dickhead if you leave them sitting there after you're done climbing, obviously
Fun vid - I hadn't thought about the Rusty Wall in a long time. Went there many times in the 80's and 90's. What worked for me on the WangerBanger thin hands was turning the inter dialog off and climbing as fast I could.
Yes. Often times that is great beta.
I had similar thoughts about both those routes... tried to onsight Okelley's and hung a couple times at the start and then again higher up when my hands went numb on a cold December day. Took a break then proceeded to climb wangerbanger clean twice in a row. I'm pretty tall with big hands so I would expect the opposite experience, but I think the crux of Wangerbanger is more pure crack technique (my strength) while Okelley's is more bouldery (my weakness).
This looks like something actually worth going in Jtree. Nice
Yessir connor! A proper challenge.
Nice job on wanger.
I remember being absolutely gassed at the top.
I followed on both wall routes last year. I am only a 5.9 leader, so maybe my opinion is not valid, but O'Kelly was the hardest route I've followed on. That start is gnarly! Dope sends though! I have to go back and get a TR on it and work it.
Yup, when they stack blocks it means the start is harder than the rest of the route, not 5.10 IMO. I resorted to trickery (no blocks) by getting a hand jam to stick in the corner which was just barely acute enough to make it work. It was a memorable jam.
A bit late seeing this one but Thanks for another video keep making more!
What's the anchor situation like at the top? Do you make natural anchor and rap down?
Yeah it's gear anchors at the top for both O'Kelley's and Wangerbanger. There's a "walk off" (more like a scramble) that's not too bad on the climber's left side of the formation.
"I don't always wear a watch when I crack climb, but when I do I wear a girl watch, and tight girl pants....with no visible panty lines...."
unnecessary style points! I stop wathchign then.
lol he wears a helmet lol
lol lol lol lol lol lol