Just found you on You Tube and love the idea of a jig this will definitely appear on my layout - budget ideas and scratch building appear to be coming back during the pandemic - great work! Alan
Putting holes through your posts is really cool, I used grey colored cotton for the wire and I went the hole hog,8 wires, I like your method and looks just as good, thanks great video
Great tutorial on this subject. I did the same in N gauge on my layout and gave up the drilling after Tom, from N Scenics laser cut some for me.. Great video, thank you, Chris
Great job 👍..but the dog would get out.the fence you built is for cattle.but lol good job 👍...jm going to do my farm fence that way....been trying for 6years doing and building other things..im in to flats now building out of bass board . redoing my railroad, thanks joe
Thanks for putting this video back up again. I am making a Farm Yard Diorama and I have started to make fencing to go all the way around the base. My first attempt looks like "O" gauge and then I decided to use this idea with round posts, but they are also 2mm in diameter. Now I have seen this again, I know I have a bag of match sticks in a box in a friends house (domestic problem) I will be moving all of it back after I have sorted my Bedroom. The layout room is still occupied by an 18-year-old who cannot make up her mind where she wants to go to next Uni or Technic college. Martin. (Thailand)
Hi Mike, I guess there's no real reason why modelling can't be done reasonably realistically without blowing the budget (apart from some essential good quality toolkit items). I don't profess to be a super-realistic modeller, but more to create relatively convincing representations of scenes.
@@StationRoadModelRailway hi your to modest you representations certainly come across as realistic -im following all your posts in readiness for my own layout -keep up the good work and stay safe -regards mike 😎😎😎
Love this solution for drilling holes in matchsticks! One suggestion is that if you swap the top piece of wood with the holes drilled in it for a piece of clear acrylic, you could see if the matchstick being drilled is slightly off centre? Keep up the great work!
Great tip for the upper jig component. When I made my jig, I just used what I had available at the time, which was some 2.5mm MDF. The slightly off-center holes only occur if the matchstick is thinner and doesn't fit snugly in the slot.
Making up a jig for drilling the holes is definitely a time-saver, and turns what would be a horrendously laborious job into one that is more manageable.😀
Thanks Vincent. Knowing I potentially had hundreds of fence posts to make, I was compelled to come up with a solution that would make the production process a bit easier, hence the jig. Cheers, Julian.
Yes I used this system for fencing our large club layout many years ago,I did 4 wires and drilled each hole individually (didn’t use a gig).That gig was a great idea,wish I thought of that.I did hundreds of matchsticks,took me forever. It did work out great especially on slopes as there isn’t many fence systems you can buy for slopes. I did feed the fishing wire through before placing them into their final holes,the other idea I had while watching was you could use a air brush.Great job David
That's one bit of kit I have yet to invest in... an airbrush, but the more and more I venture into the model railway journey, the more I'm realising I need to purchase one. I imagine a airbrush in this instance would probably work quite well, and most definitely speed up the process.
@@StationRoadModelRailway Hi Julian. Ive just bought a new airbrush off trademe and it wont fit on my compressor. Cant find the appropriate connector so be aware.
If I May be so bold. Using matchsticks and plasterers scrim ( the new sticky type ) and a tin of metallic paint spray, gives a very good illusion of a chain link fence.
Yep like the idea of using fishing line. I used thin florist wire 0.5mm but was difficult to use but got there in the end when I went passed the goods yard I glued on some fine netting I bought from a haberdashery smallest amount I could and it looks like chain link fence. The overall effect I am pleased with. Keep up the good work I enjoy your videos and layout eddyxx
I painted the mesh before glueing on, I painted a light gray with some orange/red like rust lightly brushed on , all paint was acrylic, give it a go Eddy xx
Hi just watched the road markings video you did and subscribed, with you saying about 3 holes not being prototypical in certain parts of the uk especially where I'm from north wales 3 wires through the post is correct, i bought match sticks last year to do this but wasn't sure how i was going to do it so when i come to do mine ill rewatch this will go back and watch your videos, look forward to your next update cheers Beeton Hough Junction (Dave C)
Hi Dave, that's interesting to know 3 wire fencing does exist. Here in NZ, it's at least 6 wires (any Kiwis correct me if I'm wrong), and despite the number of wires, I've still had the misfortune of being on a train here NZ where cattle have broken loose on the line.
Hi l have just been watching a few of your videos and loved the video about line side fencing and using match sticks and fishing line for the posts and wire also your street scene how did you do the zebra crossing and zig zag lines on the road it looks very effective great scratch built ideas that we all can improve our own layouts Best wishes Kevin Beighton parkway Sheffield
I did the same but with wire for part of my daughter's trainset. I did not use a jig though, so my hole spacings were a little random. I think your jig really helps the uniformity and look. Thanks for sharing.
The main issue I found when I originally used wire was trying to get the wire taught on fencing that curved in any direction without the matchsticks snapping at the holes. Fishing line doesn't require as much force to get the line nice and taught between posts.
Hi Julian, I am interested in the video you have made for making trackside wire fencing. If possible could you give me the dimensions for making up the post drill jig. I have found some Carp fishing line in brown and have the matchstick posts. Thank you
Good looking fence Julian pretty sure it’s sturdier than the fence around our house..it also looks like it will keep the cows off the track..being an nzr modeller my fences are made up of old rail track and battens and broken wires and dead cows all over the line
What size drill bit are you using? What is the length of the match stick? You made a nice jig, but you're leaving out vital information a modeler would require. If using a foam base structure, you'd probably need to glue in the match stick posts. Cheers from eastern TN
Brilliant idea and I love the jig. What about marking on it where the cut line needs to be and you could then mark each stick before you cut it to save having to use a ruler first? You could put a second line to mark how deep the post has to go. Just a thought :-)
The only reason I individually mark post for trimming height is out of habit. When I was making the posts on the layout (beginning of video) they all run over undulating ground and in some locations, the post had to be longer in order to anchor into the scenery underneath. Because the posts ended up being different lengths, I didn't add a cut mark to the jig. But in the case of the display scene where the area is flat and the same substrate, adding a cut mark to the jig is definitely a good idea, thank you.
Regards your town scenes. I am curious about the date the scene is set - I guess 1960 ish (the van suggests that era). I think the yellow 'no parking' lines were first introduced in 1960 but the white zigzag line, to the zebra crossing, was introduced in 1971. Apologies if I am mistaken?. Your fence building methods seem easy to copy and produce a decent quality fence - I need to build a fence and will certainly try your method . Many thanks
Thanks for noting the road markings. I was aware of this but I don't following prototypical modelling to the nth degree, this is so I can maintain some level of artistic licence. The period of Station Road is not a specific year but roughly a decade (give or take a year or two) from the late 1950's to the late 1960's. This is so I can run diesel and steam together.
Used this method on my last layout but used silver dressmaking cotton for the wire. I think three strands for a British outline layout is prototypical, I'm sure the fence where I used to go trainspotting near Potters Bar on the East Coast Mainline was only three strands. It is over 45 years since I last went spotting there but I'm sure it was only three. I also found it easier to drill the hole but thread the cotton before planting the fence posts as I found it impossible to thread the bottom line in situ but I was using cotton which is probably even more fiddly than the fishing line. One thing would be useful how far down from the top of the post is the first hole and then what is the distance between the subsequent holes as my last effort was alright but the spacing didn't look quite right. I've only just found your channel and it was the fencing that caught my eye as I saw advertised in a magazine a kit for this type of fencing but it worked out at about £3.00 per foot which even on my modest layout would have cost nearly £40.00. We are still in partial lockdown here so I'm hoping to do some work on my railway.
That's really interesting to hear about the number of wires used in the UK, somebody else mentioned 3 wires being in use. In terms of pricing I didn't do a comparison with kits. The bags of matchsticks I buy cost a $1 (50p) and might have 200 sticks in it. The fishing line about $5 (£2.50) for 100m.
Station Road Model Railway I moved from the UK for France some six years ago and i will have to use actual matchsticks. I'm afraid they don't really understand railway or model railway enthusiasts model shops are few and far between here and then mainly for radio control. I have discovered one model railway shop here but it is incredibly expensive €400 plus for a locomotive and an average of €150 to €200 for a coach so I tend to get all my stuff sent from the UK. Keep up the good work.
Wow, that sounds like NZ prices. I recently bought a Hornby loco (new) from the UK, because even after the international freight, it was still half the price of the same loco being sold at a local model shop. Model railway prices here in NZ are extortionist.
Station Road Model Railway Just had a Hornby S15 arrive from the UK the locomotive and two DCC chips cost £132 including shipping via Royal Mail and LePoste. The best prices in the U.K. Are Hattons in Liverpool and Rails in Sheffield. It's worth keeping an eye on their websites even in NZ as they sometimes have incredible discounts. I bought a Heljan Falcon from Hattons brand new for £75.00 when they were retailing for £145 and they ship all over the world and are quite happy to offer technical assistance over the phone even if you are on the other side of the world. Their staff all seem to have a deep product knowledge I've never had them send me an incorrect part even when I've phoned them up and said I've got such and such loco which I didn't buy from you but could you send the relevant chip.
The period of Station Road is not a specific year but roughly a decade (give or take a year or two) from the late 1950's to the late 1960's (sometimes sneaking into the early 70's). This is so I can run diesel and steam together. I was aware the zebra crossing markings (zig zag lines) were introduced in the early 70's but I don't following prototypical modelling to the nth degree, this is so I can maintain some level of artistic licence.
May I make a suggestion regarding the matchsticks, instead of painting them just soak them in gravy browning and put to dry then they are ready painted
The fence is far from prototypical, but more a representation of a post/wire fence. I'm basing the fence on the UK where, after some research, there seemed to be some fences with posts at 2m or 6ft. And of course there's the obvious battens that I haven't included which are quite common on NZ lineside fences, guessing needed because of the 3m post spacing.
@@StationRoadModelRailway Understood and you....as looks just fine...10ft/3m spacing for a typical 5 wire or more lineside or boundary fence without battens for NZ is common... with battens we go out to 20foot spacing
I love your calm style of presentation, shades of Bob Ross with the softly spoken narration to camera. Good work!
Good idea 💡 👏
Just found you on You Tube and love the idea of a jig this will definitely appear on my layout - budget ideas and scratch building appear to be coming back during the pandemic - great work! Alan
I love these budget oriented videos that you do. Keep up the good work.
:)
Looks good. Like your fence post drilling jig. You also have a very nice layout. Thanks 😊. Pete from Australia
Loved the tutorial Julian. Made my own Jig yesterday and had a go, so quick and easy when you use the Jig. Thanks for sharing your method.
Putting holes through your posts is really cool, I used grey colored cotton for the wire and I went the hole hog,8 wires, I like your method and looks just as good, thanks great video
Great tutorial on this subject. I did the same in N gauge on my layout and gave up the drilling after Tom, from N Scenics laser cut some for me.. Great video, thank you, Chris
Hi Julian, another excellent video, what I like about your modelling is that it’s so neat, Cheers John
Thanks for sharing this A great idea for fencing!
Great job 👍..but the dog would get out.the fence you built is for cattle.but lol good job 👍...jm going to do my farm fence that way....been trying for 6years doing and building other things..im in to flats now building out of bass board . redoing my railroad, thanks joe
Wow great ideas in this video..got to try them tis week!!
Awesome video Julian !! I saved it for later use. Cheers Onno.
Love your Jig, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Colin, the jig certainly makes the hole drilling process easier.
Looking good I done that on my layout Keep up the good work and posting videos up stay safe
It looks great. Cheers!
Thanks. Really liked the post holing device
Hi Allan. Excellent video on your line side fencing. Looks great with the fishing wire. Regards Stewart UK
Thanks for putting this video back up again. I am making a Farm Yard Diorama and I have started to make fencing to go all the way around the base. My first attempt looks like "O" gauge and then I decided to use this idea with round posts, but they are also 2mm in diameter. Now I have seen this again, I know I have a bag of match sticks in a box in a friends house (domestic problem) I will be moving all of it back after I have sorted my Bedroom. The layout room is still occupied by an 18-year-old who cannot make up her mind where she wants to go to next Uni or Technic college. Martin. (Thailand)
Great looking fence and really interesting seeing them made. Nice seeing you do this, hi from a Station Road in the UK 🙂
Great idea and i like the way you always manage to do things realistic and more importantly very cheap 😎😎😎
Hi Mike, I guess there's no real reason why modelling can't be done reasonably realistically without blowing the budget (apart from some essential good quality toolkit items). I don't profess to be a super-realistic modeller, but more to create relatively convincing representations of scenes.
@@StationRoadModelRailway hi your to modest you representations certainly come across as realistic -im following all your posts in readiness for my own layout -keep up the good work and stay safe -regards mike 😎😎😎
Love this solution for drilling holes in matchsticks! One suggestion is that if you swap the top piece of wood with the holes drilled in it for a piece of clear acrylic, you could see if the matchstick being drilled is slightly off centre? Keep up the great work!
Great tip for the upper jig component. When I made my jig, I just used what I had available at the time, which was some 2.5mm MDF. The slightly off-center holes only occur if the matchstick is thinner and doesn't fit snugly in the slot.
Hi Julian great video mate i really injured it keep up the great work mate stay safe and well mate Clive
Great idea! How about painting/staining the posts before drilling to save time after planting them? Then just paint the "wires" last?
Fantastic Video. I will be ordering matchsticks ASAP. I hope I have your patience. Thanks.
Making up a jig for drilling the holes is definitely a time-saver, and turns what would be a horrendously laborious job into one that is more manageable.😀
Great jig!
Thanks Vincent. Knowing I potentially had hundreds of fence posts to make, I was compelled to come up with a solution that would make the production process a bit easier, hence the jig. Cheers, Julian.
Yes I used this system for fencing our large club layout many years ago,I did 4 wires and drilled each hole individually (didn’t use a gig).That gig was a great idea,wish I thought of that.I did hundreds of matchsticks,took me forever. It did work out great especially on slopes as there isn’t many fence systems you can buy for slopes. I did feed the fishing wire through before placing them into their final holes,the other idea I had while watching was you could use a air brush.Great job David
That's one bit of kit I have yet to invest in... an airbrush, but the more and more I venture into the model railway journey, the more I'm realising I need to purchase one. I imagine a airbrush in this instance would probably work quite well, and most definitely speed up the process.
@@StationRoadModelRailway
Hi Julian. Ive just bought a new airbrush off trademe and it wont fit on my compressor. Cant find the appropriate connector so be aware.
That doesn't sound good. I'm thinking an airbrush kit is something you can't compromise on over price, hence my delay purchasing one.
Maybe look for a airbrush and compressor kit,may cost a little more.wish I did that.
If I May be so bold. Using matchsticks and plasterers scrim ( the new sticky type ) and a tin of metallic paint spray, gives a very good illusion of a chain link fence.
Yep like the idea of using fishing line. I used thin florist wire 0.5mm but was difficult to use but got there in the end when I went passed the goods yard I glued on some fine netting I bought from a haberdashery smallest amount I could and it looks like chain link fence. The overall effect I am pleased with. Keep up the good work I enjoy your videos and layout eddyxx
That's something I want to try... fine fabric netting from a haberdashery store to build up some mesh fencing around the yard/goods area.
I painted the mesh before glueing on, I painted a light gray with some orange/red like rust lightly brushed on , all paint was acrylic, give it a go Eddy xx
That is a great Idea. I have a lot of matchsticks and I can buy some fishing line. Thank you for sharing this Idea. Martin. (Thailand)
Hi just watched the road markings video you did and subscribed, with you saying about 3 holes not being prototypical in certain parts of the uk especially where I'm from north wales 3 wires through the post is correct, i bought match sticks last year to do this but wasn't sure how i was going to do it so when i come to do mine ill rewatch this will go back and watch your videos, look forward to your next update cheers Beeton Hough Junction (Dave C)
Hi Dave, that's interesting to know 3 wire fencing does exist. Here in NZ, it's at least 6 wires (any Kiwis correct me if I'm wrong), and despite the number of wires, I've still had the misfortune of being on a train here NZ where cattle have broken loose on the line.
Hi l have just been watching a few of your videos and loved the video about line side fencing and using match sticks and fishing line for the posts and wire also your street scene how did you do the zebra crossing and zig zag lines on the road it looks very effective great scratch built ideas that we all can improve our own layouts
Best wishes
Kevin Beighton parkway Sheffield
I did the same but with wire for part of my daughter's trainset. I did not use a jig though, so my hole spacings were a little random. I think your jig really helps the uniformity and look. Thanks for sharing.
The main issue I found when I originally used wire was trying to get the wire taught on fencing that curved in any direction without the matchsticks snapping at the holes. Fishing line doesn't require as much force to get the line nice and taught between posts.
@@StationRoadModelRailway - i his find the wure hard to work with too. I'll bear the fishing line technique for future works. Thanks for sharing.
Autocorrupt, don't ya just love it.
Love it
Hi Julian,
I am interested in the video you have made for making trackside wire fencing.
If possible could you give me the dimensions for making up the post drill jig.
I have found some Carp fishing line in brown and have the matchstick posts.
Thank you
Nice video, super!
LG Gert
Good looking fence Julian pretty sure it’s sturdier than the fence around our house..it also looks like it will keep the cows off the track..being an nzr modeller my fences are made up of old rail track and battens and broken wires and dead cows all over the line
I know all too well about cows on the track here in NZ after experiencing an unfortunate situation many many years ago on a Masterton commuter train.
What size drill bit are you using? What is the length of the match stick? You made a nice jig, but you're leaving out vital information a modeler would require. If using a foam base structure, you'd probably need to glue in the match stick posts. Cheers from eastern TN
Brilliant idea and I love the jig. What about marking on it where the cut line needs to be and you could then mark each stick before you cut it to save having to use a ruler first? You could put a second line to mark how deep the post has to go. Just a thought :-)
The only reason I individually mark post for trimming height is out of habit. When I was making the posts on the layout (beginning of video) they all run over undulating ground and in some locations, the post had to be longer in order to anchor into the scenery underneath. Because the posts ended up being different lengths, I didn't add a cut mark to the jig. But in the case of the display scene where the area is flat and the same substrate, adding a cut mark to the jig is definitely a good idea, thank you.
Thanks.
Regards your town scenes. I am curious about the date the scene is set - I guess 1960 ish (the van suggests that era). I think the yellow 'no parking' lines were first introduced in 1960 but the white zigzag line, to the zebra crossing, was introduced in 1971. Apologies if I am mistaken?.
Your fence building methods seem easy to copy and produce a decent quality fence - I need to build a fence and will certainly try your method . Many thanks
Thanks for noting the road markings. I was aware of this but I don't following prototypical modelling to the nth degree, this is so I can maintain some level of artistic licence. The period of Station Road is not a specific year but roughly a decade (give or take a year or two) from the late 1950's to the late 1960's. This is so I can run diesel and steam together.
Used this method on my last layout but used silver dressmaking cotton for the wire. I think three strands for a British outline layout is prototypical, I'm sure the fence where I used to go trainspotting near Potters Bar on the East Coast Mainline was only three strands. It is over 45 years since I last went spotting there but I'm sure it was only three. I also found it easier to drill the hole but thread the cotton before planting the fence posts as I found it impossible to thread the bottom line in situ but I was using cotton which is probably even more fiddly than the fishing line. One thing would be useful how far down from the top of the post is the first hole and then what is the distance between the subsequent holes as my last effort was alright but the spacing didn't look quite right. I've only just found your channel and it was the fencing that caught my eye as I saw advertised in a magazine a kit for this type of fencing but it worked out at about £3.00 per foot which even on my modest layout would have cost nearly £40.00. We are still in partial lockdown here so I'm hoping to do some work on my railway.
That's really interesting to hear about the number of wires used in the UK, somebody else mentioned 3 wires being in use. In terms of pricing I didn't do a comparison with kits. The bags of matchsticks I buy cost a $1 (50p) and might have 200 sticks in it. The fishing line about $5 (£2.50) for 100m.
Station Road Model Railway I moved from the UK for France some six years ago and i will have to use actual matchsticks. I'm afraid they don't really understand railway or model railway enthusiasts model shops are few and far between here and then mainly for radio control. I have discovered one model railway shop here but it is incredibly expensive €400 plus for a locomotive and an average of €150 to €200 for a coach so I tend to get all my stuff sent from the UK. Keep up the good work.
Wow, that sounds like NZ prices. I recently bought a Hornby loco (new) from the UK, because even after the international freight, it was still half the price of the same loco being sold at a local model shop. Model railway prices here in NZ are extortionist.
Station Road Model Railway Just had a Hornby S15 arrive from the UK the locomotive and two DCC chips cost £132 including shipping via Royal Mail and LePoste. The best prices in the U.K. Are Hattons in Liverpool and Rails in Sheffield. It's worth keeping an eye on their websites even in NZ as they sometimes have incredible discounts. I bought a Heljan Falcon from Hattons brand new for £75.00 when they were retailing for £145 and they ship all over the world and are quite happy to offer technical assistance over the phone even if you are on the other side of the world. Their staff all seem to have a deep product knowledge I've never had them send me an incorrect part even when I've phoned them up and said I've got such and such loco which I didn't buy from you but could you send the relevant chip.
I purchase quite often from Rails of Sheffield and also TMC which are really good.
the zig zag markings on the road crossing are to modern for a steam era layout black and white crossing and belishs beacons otherwise looking good
The period of Station Road is not a specific year but roughly a decade (give or take a year or two) from the late 1950's to the late 1960's (sometimes sneaking into the early 70's). This is so I can run diesel and steam together. I was aware the zebra crossing markings (zig zag lines) were introduced in the early 70's but I don't following prototypical modelling to the nth degree, this is so I can maintain some level of artistic licence.
May I make a suggestion regarding the matchsticks, instead of painting them just soak them in gravy browning and put to dry then they are ready painted
Coffee might do the job as well.
Sorry Julian named you Allan by mistake. Regards Stewart UK
Your posts are a little closer than prototype in NZ...ten foot spacing was a rule of thumb for cattle fencing but looks good
The fence is far from prototypical, but more a representation of a post/wire fence. I'm basing the fence on the UK where, after some research, there seemed to be some fences with posts at 2m or 6ft. And of course there's the obvious battens that I haven't included which are quite common on NZ lineside fences, guessing needed because of the 3m post spacing.
@@StationRoadModelRailway
Understood and you....as looks just fine...10ft/3m spacing for a typical 5 wire or more lineside or boundary fence without battens for NZ is common... with battens we go out to 20foot spacing
Sorry my phone likes to change my words by you get the gist .. I'm waiting for my micro drill to arrive.... got some fencing to do