Quick and Easy Expert Tips for Laying Flex Track
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Most model railroaders’ first layouts utilize sectional track of fixed curves and straight pieces. While convenient and easy to install, sectional track is limiting in variety and realism. In this video, learn how laying flex track is easy to do and can take your layout to a whole new level of realistic and reliable track plans.
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I am a notorious mind changer, so unless absolutely necessary, I do not glue my track down. Another thing I do with my Atlas Cd 100 flex track is, whenever possible, I start my track about six inches from a curve. Then I take the sliding rail(the one of the side of the track with many breaks in the plastic web) and pull it out about 6 inches. When I bring up the next piece of track and, keeping all sliding rails on the same side, I slide that next sliding rail into the evacuated ties from the first piece of track. I clear away the "spike heads", leaving the ties in place for the rail joiners to be inserted.. The purpose of this is so that when on a curve, the rail joiner on one rail is supported by solid rail(no joiner) on the opposite side, thus leaving less chance to end up with any kind of kink in the track. All this means that I never cut my rail unless necessary such as the end of a siding or a turnout, etc.
Good advice, thank you!
Glad it looks so easy.I just trashed 3 sections trying to get the rail joiners to hold a curve.even soldered
And as soon as you cut away more than 1 tie the rails kink.
Im going back to sectional
Less headaches
Liquid nails is available in the easy clean-up water based tubes, unlike the old school stuff that is difficult to clean up.
Why didn't he slide some ties in the extra space for fill. I did my first flex and had some track that was pretty much junk. But had some good ties left . I use to fill the gaps.
He probably doesn't care about that in this video since he doesn't mention it, or else he simply doesn't care at all.
I’m sure he did it later.
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1. In my experience, you don't have to glue the track down. Use track nails or the push pins to hold it in place, then ballast it and glue the ballast in place. The ballast will hold it in place all by itself. p.s. I don't like cork roadbed either.
2. If you glue your track it's an S.O.B. to change the location or lift the track to add a turnout or some other feature. You'll destroy the track trying to get it up.
3. Don't cut the track once it is down. Cut it before you place it. Cut back the tie strip before you lay the track so you have a place to slide on the rail joiner. Sheesh, Mr. Kelly, I thought you knew that.
4. One rail longer by a 1/4 inch is nothing. you can compensate on the next piece of track.
5. Yes, you should file the track: the rail bottom smooth to slide on the rail joiner. Lightly file the web on both sides and be sure the top is smooth, too.
6. Flex track is great for the reasons Jim mentions, plus at 3 ft long there are less joints for better electrical continuity.
7. What a waste of instruction -- People will have more problems than you realize.
Michael Hirvela haha that's all funny as hell
why are you so salty
What type of rail cutter do you use?
What can I do to get jointers to prevent sliding out of place?
When laying track, should I put it straight on the wood, or put down a layer of foam first?
Hi Johnathan. Generally, some type of roadbed is good, for sound deadening and scenic
reasons. On real railroads they generally elevate the main line tracks
above any secondary trackage. Thanks!
Model Railroad Academy
Thanks. I was going to put down some cork bed anyway, but I also got a layer of foam to put down over the wood, like you said, for scenic purposes.
I don't want to give up this hobby. I truly don't.. but I am having so much trouble getting the rail joiners to stay in place while I attempt to connect the next track piece. And then the "sliding" side of the flex track will keep sliding will I'm trying to connect the two rails (to the sliding rail joiner which is sliding). Just frustrated.
Another option is to shorten the sliding rail by a few inches. Slide the rail out and cut it, then slide it back in. Take your next piece of flex track and move that sliding rail in to the gap left by the cut off you made ( the ties will hold it in place as opposed to a rail joiner). The sliding rails should butt up to each other and then you just have to connect the rail joiner on the stationary side of that piece. When you finish your run of flex track it will need to be cut flush to join up to a standard piece. Also note that the sliding rails will not be connected with a joiner, so either run a power lead to each piece of flex track ( the best way ) or a small shot of solder to each gap in the sliding rail. Good luck and don't give up.
@@tannercast9377 Thank you very much for taking the time to explain that to me. Very helpful! Can't wait to give it a try on my next days off. Quick question... can I solder the top of the rails or will that cause problems? Thanks again!
The funny thing is the nippers they charge like $15. Go to an art or craft store and they are $5.
True. I almost made the mistake of buying "flex cutters" but my father advised that I buy a 10 dollar kit on amazon that comes with a hobby knife, micro cloth, cutters, file, etc.
Thats not funny.Thats sad.The prices are whats sinking this hobby like a rock
Nah you just have to learn to be more creative with your brain. And look instead of just buying because it's the first one to pop up. It's not the tools that killing hobby it's prices of new engines. Not everyone can afford brand new. Like me. Yet I have over 300 engines from g to n scale. Tools are tools. I have never bought brand new. I repair and restore. And everyone works great.
If liquid nails is what others want to use, why not as long as it holds the track down!!!
Is there anything bad (for how wepl the train runs not looks or scenery) about laying the track but not put a roadbed?
Hi Tryorse,
Well yes. Generally a real main line is set at a higher level. Your main line could be set on standard cork roadbed while the secondary tracks could be laid on I/8” sheet cork as an example. Yards can be laid directly on sheet homasote.
Douglas
Model Railroad Academy
No there is really nothing wrong with placing it directly on a Surface. I it runs great right on the surface. I wondered about that as well when I saw everyone using the cork bed but I don't care for the bed. I use Flex track but I do not care for the cork bed. So I use a table and I cover it with green felt because I like the green felt under it I like the color of it. And then I can dress it up and it makes me think of grass. And I nail it directly into the table because you do need to attach the Flex track somehow especially on the curves.
Those were not rail nippers. Did you break the jaws ?
Well What can I say. I use Xurons!
Really? If this is indicative of what the "Model Railroad Academy" teaches I'll pass. I'm glad I learned enough from good mentors to get me going and then improved my skills with experience and critical self review thereafter. So many missed teaching opportunities here even though the video is less than 5 minutes long.
I went to watch all your super informative videos regarding proper track layong techniques, all I found was some muppet doing hair.
If the nippers are sharp you won't have to do any filing at all. The only joke when using liquid nail is your attitude nd all I use is the $2 a tube stuff and I have never had any problems. Don't be so judgemental...
liquid nails to lay track?? what a joke.
No joke as I've been using it for the last 4 layouts over the last 30 years.
It works very well.