Great and honest overview. Thanks. There are so many 'world experts" and 'rally heroes' on the t7 Facebook pages. Nice to see someone who is a normal and honest guy taking the t7 to actual extremes. Keep up the good work fella.
Thanks Michael, I try to keep it as real as possible, no need for the flash as it's just hobby and joy. I'm most happy there is value in the information for other people coming to riding. I think that the T7 has extreme which I have yet not discovered :) Any time I was thinking ... damn, I just twist the throttle and she does something and I'm past obstacle... :)
regarding water pump and clutch cover protection - I've seen crash bars bent into and destroying them. Probably better protection is plastic cover like we use on dirt bikes.
I totally agree. Once I buy my T7, the Rally Raid upgrades are a must, for about 400€ its a very good option. I will get the Fork Preload Caps. Also master cylinder protection and R&G Engine Case Cover. For rally purposes maybe add some Steg Pegs, Sliders on Front and Back Wheel (cheap) and maybe Ralle Moto RM3, it is supposed to help with high speed rock deflections. I don't have any experience with it just something I picked up.
Well my strategy is to find the limits of current setup and don't invest much... Once I reach the limit I can look for upgrades. Now when you mention it... I forgot to put my wish list to the video... and what I really want to add is Ralle Moto RM3, it would be really really helpful for the rally.
restless soul Well, never had them so I can’t judge but in terms of limits the pegs are definitely at the bottom of the list on the upcoming changes. I wear hard boots so even small pegs like stock are OK, the tilt feature of the pivot pegs... probably good for comfort. But then you still need to move foot for shifts... 🤷🏻♂️
Hi Shymyr! Yes 100% agree it is ideal for your conditions, it would be super awesome to visit Kazakhstan again, I have only good memories from your country, especially from Assy Plateu next to Almaty where I drowned my bike, hehe.
Hodně usefull video, pecka! :) Za detailnější video by stály ty svody výfuku - na kolik to vyšlo, jak se ti s tím jede, resp. změnil se projev motoru a tak. Jen kdyby náhodou si neměl co roupama :D
No je to prototyp, teď čekáme na dodávku Scorpion koncovky a chtěli bychom to dotáhnout tak, že půjde vyměňovat. Zásadní problém je, že bez řezání a vaření to nejde udělat i kdyby byl ten svod ke koupení jako stavebnice. Koumáme nad tim s Punkmoto, ale flexu jsme zatim neodstranili... Jinak, co se týče výkonu... já to nepoznám, mě to přijde stejný...
Great info on your mods. I Agree with your experience on dropping the bike on the exhaust side and having the can rubbing the swing arm afterwards, there are a few pictures of teneres with swing arm rub, mine included, I really think your high exhaust conversion is worth looking at. would you mind a more in depth explanation on that mod? thanks
Hello, glad video was useful. You're not the first asking about the high exhaust mod... seems a video on that one is in order. This is not finished product actually, I'm waiting for Scorpion exhaust and the pipes will be modified so that stock & aftermarket can be swapped. The problem with T7 is that the mod is not possible without cutting & welding, or at least not in shape I have it so it's difficult to produce the kit.
Very solid and credible review. I did the same with my suspension with 88 to get my sag right. I was undecided with the headlight protector, but now I am. I have the ACD skidplate and I find it very rugged. Finally, I think my Cycra handguards are more robust than the Barkbuster.
Hello, thanks, I'm glad it was useful. I heard the ACD products are very good quality as well and I have never heard about Cycra handguards, will check it out. Thanks for the tip.
@@FARANDFURTHER Zaujalo mě, jak jsi protáhl výfuk pod tou stupačkou. Tam pro tu trubku není moc místa, mezi kyFkou a tou stupačkou. Je to takhle v pohodě?
Great video :) Even though I'm not rallying anytime soon, it's nice to have some experienced opinions on the aftermarket options. Btw, touratech (I think) sells lower crashbars that I was planning on buying. I don't think I'm going to get the upper ones, at the speed I ride I think the plastics are sufficient for sliding offroad.
Thanks, glad the video was helpful. Well, if you don't mind your plastic will be scratched or cracked than yep, upper not needed. However when you look at the video, most of the crashbar damage is on the upper bars.
I got the Touratech lower crash bars a couple weeks ago and today the uppers came . Had dental implant surgery today and the novacaine is wearing off . Tried installing the Outback Motortek upper and lower crash bars but after 4.5 hours I threw in the towel . The main engine bolt just wouldn't seat and before that every single nut and bolt was a problem . I called the company and spoke to the owner and he was nice about it , apparently my bike is on the limit of tolerance stacking . Hope the Touratech crash bars go one smoothly . I like the way the lower bars protrude a bit and protect the case good on one side and pretty good on the other side .
The problem with Outback crash bars is that you have to just put all the bolts on to a 1 or 2 threads otherwise its impossible to mount. Once that's done you can start gradually tightening it all and it will create flex in the structure. They're definitely not a piece of accessory you want to take off and put on often :)
@@FARANDFURTHER I experienced a lot of tension on the first bolts under the seat . The alignment was off from the beginning . Then the shorter engine bolt was somewhat a pain but it did seat and thread on . I did leave a lot of play in each bolt but the c clamp brackets were such a pain . If the bolts were just 2mm longer it would have made a big difference . The nylock nuts just wouldn't go on without an extreme amount of effort and that was just one 3/4 turn . Had to tighten one side down hard just to flex the bracket and then do the same to the next bolt and nylock nut . It just is one of those things that doesn't work the way it should . Of course I could have drilled things out and done this or that to the bars but after spending 460 dollars I just want to put them on and ride .
hi, i think the tool box on the shoe can in the event of repeated shocks stretch and weaken the weld of the shoe. this is only a hypothesis. For the handguards, I have always taken quality products and I fold them all without breaking them. by heating them with a torch, you manage to straighten them. For the T 700, I mounted crankcases on both sides GB RACING. For the water pump, I saw that TOURATECH sells a not too expensive model. You should not wait for the problem when you already have the solution. See you soon
I've now straighten the Bark busters without problems. Yes I know GB racing is making set of protection, also Trippleclamp does one and R&G. I bought one set as well as it seems to be useful for my riding.
First: Congrats again to your fantasicjob in the race! Second: I think the weld in the bashplate must have been a quality issue of the weld or level ofabise isjust out of this world..🤔😁😎 Thrid: I have managed to bend my barkbusters multiple times - and that is good so! The way they are made is to absorb the energy during a crash so that is not tranfered to the handlebars and bend these instead... rigidity here would be counterproductive.. Finaly:You are living in a civilized area - who tf uses psi? please use up2date standards for pressure! BAR 😁😎 cheers buddy!
Thanks! Although 26th overall... I'm just bragging about 2nd day :) I also think that the bashplate crack is quality issue... OK so it's only me, apparently who didn't bend them yet... It's some kind of alloy... safe to bend back or they will crack? Hee... PSI has better resolution than the 1.2 bar! And I got so used to it in UK 🤣🤷♂️
Great video, I like that you cover all the aspects clearly. I am impressed. I really like that high exhaust modification. Looks like the mid-pipe is bent and welded in sections. Any tips for someone who might attempt to do a similar change ?
Hello, I'm glad the video was useful. In terms of the exhaust mod, it depends where you are. I could refer you to a place where I had it done in Czechia but I'm not sure if that's useful. It is custom mount (the OEM shortened), custom mid-pipe and and some good TIG welding. Next step is to change the OEM exhaust for the Scorpion one which is coming soon.
The waving problem at speed is most likely incorrect suspension settings in relation to the weight you carried when traveling or perhaps bad weight distribution front-to-back. Sticking out panniers also tend to do that due to aerodynamic forces. Lastly how much you lower or lifted the forks in the triple tree could also be a factor.
All points you make may be valid. One thing though is that after lowering pressure in the tires and riding them for a while (I bought them 2nd hand so I needed to bed them a bit to my bike/style) the waving improved enormously. I've not lowered/raised the forks, they are stock height. In terms of rear suspension I could not get proper sag at the time as my spring was too weak. I'm looking forward to test it now with uprated spring.
my 1090R with Tractionator Rallz tyres was way more unstable above 100kph until i dropped the pressure from 35 to about 25psi. i just ride them at 23/25psi all the time now and theyre great. still a bit unstable on the road at 120kph but nothing serious and oddly they feel fine in corners, its onlt the straights where i feel the wobble.
Hi James, I have similar experience. Once the pressure is lower (I'm used 32/36psi for Mitas E-07) they got much more stable. Also some wear had a positive impact on stability and at some point I was able to ride at 130/140 without issues. Now with about 7000km they seems to be done (front definitely) and rear seems to be quite slippery on wet & cold which is what I have here in CZ now.
Are you just using the spacers for your front fork? You're actually the first video I've seen recommending spacers as an option. Most are recommending new forks or spring kits. Options that are about $1k or more.
I went through the progression. I added the spacers to the front forks. Then I got Rally Raid open cartridge and K-Tech rear shock upgraded piston. For my rally it’s enough it is impressive how the front improves with better forks (of course! for the $$$). And the K-Tech in the rear is enough for me now. If I’d only travel the spacers to get correct sag (or correct spring rate) would be still my way to go, but when at high speed it does hit its limit quickly.
First thing, thanks for one more amazing video and information. As i also have a T7, i am curious about the front axle sliders. What is our opinion about them? Do you found them usefull or not ? For on and off road. Thanks!
Hi Duarte, I've put them on after I destroyed my front fork guards so... I can't say if they'd protect them or not but I guess they would especially lower mounting bolts. I had the sliders during the Dinaric rally and I have to say they came out very much used so they indeed to take some impact and protect the axle and surrounding are at the bottom. So, yes seems to be worth it especially when fork guards are in one piece :)
I don’t think they’ll ever touch the pavement if the bike slides. Especially the on-off bike type. The handlebars and body are too wide to have anything else touching the forks - unless of course you hit something head on. Sliders that stick out like that are a bad idea imo, especially for off-roading when you try to squeeze your tire between rocks and ruts.
Hi Tomas, I'm still waiting on my Scorpion exhaust which no and no arriving. Once I have that at hand the mod will be finished. There is some more progression and I've been testing now for about 3 months and so far so good. Only issue is the passenger footpeg which is now the 1st to be hit when I drop the bike and I'm not sure how long it will survive.
@@TomasLonGo Hehe :) I've been exploring some options for exhaust protection. Maybe well placed heat shield would do the trick? Or some kind of heavy duty sticker not to scratch it on the 1st day out ;)
@@FARANDFURTHER the problem isn't even the exhaust itself. But the exhaust's support is super weak and it's welded to the frame. It bends everytime you fall to the right side 🤦♂️🤦♂️ Yamaha should have thought about this a bit longer
Hi Tomas, that is custom made exhaust modification done by Punk moto garage in the Czechia. I'm going to have fininal version in the next few weeks with the Scorpion exhaust.
Hello. I saw that you were wearing the Leatt body armour in a previous video. I am looking to purchase one very soon. I would really appreciate hearing your opinion of the armour.
i have a question about you high placed front fender, doe you as the driver get very wet in the rain on the road ? more than the original front fender ? greetings from the Netherlands
Hi Rudy, I would love to answer that question but unfortunately there was no wet riding during the rally or on my way there and back... we will have to wait for that knowledge... :)
Hi. I bought the Shido because you recommended it. Do you happen to also have oxford heated grips? If you do, are those ran directly to the battery? Many thanks
I have not had any issue so far with the Shido battery. It did start the bike on the first click even at -6 but you could feel the battery was not happy about that. So next time, still the same temperature I let the bike on for few minutes (just lights) which warms up the battery and it was much more happy. I have oxfords, I think I have them connected to the T7 plug for the heated grips as that plug is provided by Yamaha.
@@FARANDFURTHER Thank you very much for your answer. Do you happen to have a link for that plug? Did you have to cut the wiring or was it plug and play?
For the Oxford grips you want to use the Yamaha provided connector, you will need to get the crimping tool and the pins though. This is the connector which is on the bike: www.motokonektory.cz/sady-konektoru/sady-konektoru-3-polove/sada-vodotesneho-konektoru-2-2-mm-3-poly-trojuhelnik As I said you can cut on the Oxford side and use the 3 pin from bike to connect.
I’m back to annoy you even more! I have the grips but havent installed them yet because so many report that they come loose. Has this happened to you, what did you use to get them fitted? Many thanks, the information is appreciated.
I tried lower seat, I have it now but in my opinion it does not make much difference and it is substantially harder than the standard one. I now added a CoolCovers which raises it to the standard height while providing more comfort without raising the seat height as it wild with standard seat. So far happy with the solution.
@@FARANDFURTHER Just ordered some Bosley pegs from Czech republic. Lowered ones in rally size. If they’re too wide and low in technical stuff I’ll order some MX ones.
It is late September 2020, and you are still the #1 basher of Teneres. 🏆 Thanks for another useful vid.
Thanks :) :) Wait for November 2020 and Albanian expedition... hehe! Glad video was helpful.
Great and honest overview. Thanks. There are so many 'world experts" and 'rally heroes' on the t7 Facebook pages. Nice to see someone who is a normal and honest guy taking the t7 to actual extremes. Keep up the good work fella.
Thanks Michael, I try to keep it as real as possible, no need for the flash as it's just hobby and joy. I'm most happy there is value in the information for other people coming to riding.
I think that the T7 has extreme which I have yet not discovered :) Any time I was thinking ... damn, I just twist the throttle and she does something and I'm past obstacle... :)
Thanks for the trust and the shoutout 🙌
Any time!
regarding water pump and clutch cover protection - I've seen crash bars bent into and destroying them. Probably better protection is plastic cover like we use on dirt bikes.
I’ve now bought protection from Tripple Clamp in UK I think, just waiting for it’s arrival.
I totally agree. Once I buy my T7, the Rally Raid upgrades are a must, for about 400€ its a very good option. I will get the Fork Preload Caps. Also master cylinder protection and R&G Engine Case Cover. For rally purposes maybe add some Steg Pegs, Sliders on Front and Back Wheel (cheap) and maybe Ralle Moto RM3, it is supposed to help with high speed rock deflections. I don't have any experience with it just something I picked up.
Well my strategy is to find the limits of current setup and don't invest much... Once I reach the limit I can look for upgrades.
Now when you mention it... I forgot to put my wish list to the video... and what I really want to add is Ralle Moto RM3, it would be really really helpful for the rally.
@@FARANDFURTHER What about Pivot Pegs? Supposed to be good for rally too.
restless soul Well, never had them so I can’t judge but in terms of limits the pegs are definitely at the bottom of the list on the upcoming changes. I wear hard boots so even small pegs like stock are OK, the tilt feature of the pivot pegs... probably good for comfort. But then you still need to move foot for shifts... 🤷🏻♂️
Fantastic video. You sir, have my respect. 👍
Thanks man! It did take some time to make...
Thanks for your time ! Welcome to Kazakhstan, my friend! Ideal bike for our conditions ))
Hi Shymyr! Yes 100% agree it is ideal for your conditions, it would be super awesome to visit Kazakhstan again, I have only good memories from your country, especially from Assy Plateu next to Almaty where I drowned my bike, hehe.
I bent the Barkbusters countless times, just correct them with vice tool and then continue :)
Hm... they are some kind of aluminium alloy so I was worried it would crack if I try to straighten them.
Hodně usefull video, pecka! :) Za detailnější video by stály ty svody výfuku - na kolik to vyšlo, jak se ti s tím jede, resp. změnil se projev motoru a tak. Jen kdyby náhodou si neměl co roupama :D
No je to prototyp, teď čekáme na dodávku Scorpion koncovky a chtěli bychom to dotáhnout tak, že půjde vyměňovat. Zásadní problém je, že bez řezání a vaření to nejde udělat i kdyby byl ten svod ke koupení jako stavebnice.
Koumáme nad tim s Punkmoto, ale flexu jsme zatim neodstranili...
Jinak, co se týče výkonu... já to nepoznám, mě to přijde stejný...
Awesome that you did so well in the race. Congratulation buddy.
Thanks, I was surprised myself, but the 2nd day didn't put me to the top, ended 26th overall.
Great info on your mods. I Agree with your experience on dropping the bike on the exhaust side and having the can rubbing the swing arm afterwards, there are a few pictures of teneres with swing arm rub, mine included, I really think your high exhaust conversion is worth looking at. would you mind a more in depth explanation on that mod? thanks
Hello, glad video was useful. You're not the first asking about the high exhaust mod... seems a video on that one is in order. This is not finished product actually, I'm waiting for Scorpion exhaust and the pipes will be modified so that stock & aftermarket can be swapped.
The problem with T7 is that the mod is not possible without cutting & welding, or at least not in shape I have it so it's difficult to produce the kit.
Very solid and credible review. I did the same with my suspension with 88 to get my sag right. I was undecided with the headlight protector, but now I am. I have the ACD skidplate and I find it very rugged. Finally, I think my Cycra handguards are more robust than the Barkbuster.
Hello, thanks, I'm glad it was useful. I heard the ACD products are very good quality as well and I have never heard about Cycra handguards, will check it out. Thanks for the tip.
@@FARANDFURTHER Here is the one I have installed. Cycra Ultra Probend Handguards with HCM Clamp Black 1 1/8"
Užitečné video i pro ty, co se nechystají na rally... Díky chlape.
No tak to jsem moc rád, to je paráda tak by to mělo bejt 👍
@@FARANDFURTHER Zaujalo mě, jak jsi protáhl výfuk pod tou stupačkou. Tam pro tu trubku není moc místa, mezi kyFkou a tou stupačkou. Je to takhle v pohodě?
@@DzaunjajaPupu Stupačka je trochu vyosená aby se tam ta trubka vešla, pak to jde.
Great video :) Even though I'm not rallying anytime soon, it's nice to have some experienced opinions on the aftermarket options.
Btw, touratech (I think) sells lower crashbars that I was planning on buying. I don't think I'm going to get the upper ones, at the speed I ride I think the plastics are sufficient for sliding offroad.
Thanks, glad the video was helpful.
Well, if you don't mind your plastic will be scratched or cracked than yep, upper not needed. However when you look at the video, most of the crashbar damage is on the upper bars.
I got the Touratech lower crash bars a couple weeks ago and today the uppers came . Had dental implant surgery today and the novacaine is wearing off .
Tried installing the Outback Motortek upper and lower crash bars but after 4.5 hours I threw in the towel . The main engine bolt just wouldn't seat and before that every single nut and bolt was a problem . I called the company and spoke to the owner and he was nice about it , apparently my bike is on the limit of tolerance stacking . Hope the Touratech crash bars go one smoothly . I like the way the lower bars protrude a bit and protect the case good on one side and pretty good on the other side .
The problem with Outback crash bars is that you have to just put all the bolts on to a 1 or 2 threads otherwise its impossible to mount. Once that's done you can start gradually tightening it all and it will create flex in the structure.
They're definitely not a piece of accessory you want to take off and put on often :)
@@FARANDFURTHER
I experienced a lot of tension on the first bolts under the seat . The alignment was off from the beginning . Then the shorter engine bolt was somewhat a pain but it did seat and thread on . I did leave a lot of play in each bolt but the c clamp brackets were such a pain . If the bolts were just 2mm longer it would have made a big difference . The nylock nuts just wouldn't go on without an extreme amount of effort and that was just one 3/4 turn . Had to tighten one side down hard just to flex the bracket and then do the same to the next bolt and nylock nut . It just is one of those things that doesn't work the way it should . Of course I could have drilled things out and done this or that to the bars but after spending 460 dollars I just want to put them on and ride .
Great video and you are doing great job Pavel ☺
Thanks man!
hi, i think the tool box on the shoe can in the event of repeated shocks stretch and weaken the weld of the shoe.
this is only a hypothesis. For the handguards, I have always taken quality products and I fold them all without breaking them. by heating them with a torch, you manage to straighten them.
For the T 700, I mounted crankcases on both sides GB RACING.
For the water pump, I saw that TOURATECH sells a not too expensive model. You should not wait for the problem when you already have the solution.
See you soon
I've now straighten the Bark busters without problems. Yes I know GB racing is making set of protection, also Trippleclamp does one and R&G. I bought one set as well as it seems to be useful for my riding.
First: Congrats again to your fantasicjob in the race!
Second: I think the weld in the bashplate must have been a quality issue of the weld or level ofabise isjust out of this world..🤔😁😎
Thrid: I have managed to bend my barkbusters multiple times - and that is good so! The way they are made is to absorb the energy during a crash so that is not tranfered to the handlebars and bend these instead... rigidity here would be counterproductive..
Finaly:You are living in a civilized area - who tf uses psi? please use up2date standards for pressure! BAR 😁😎
cheers buddy!
Thanks! Although 26th overall... I'm just bragging about 2nd day :)
I also think that the bashplate crack is quality issue...
OK so it's only me, apparently who didn't bend them yet... It's some kind of alloy... safe to bend back or they will crack?
Hee... PSI has better resolution than the 1.2 bar! And I got so used to it in UK 🤣🤷♂️
Great video, I like that you cover all the aspects clearly. I am impressed.
I really like that high exhaust modification. Looks like the mid-pipe is bent and welded in sections.
Any tips for someone who might attempt to do a similar change ?
Hello, I'm glad the video was useful. In terms of the exhaust mod, it depends where you are. I could refer you to a place where I had it done in Czechia but I'm not sure if that's useful.
It is custom mount (the OEM shortened), custom mid-pipe and and some good TIG welding. Next step is to change the OEM exhaust for the Scorpion one which is coming soon.
Great video, keep up the good work.
Sounds like your crash bars are bulletproof and doing their job. What brand are they please?
Hi Dave, thank you very much, happy it’s useful. The crashbars are from Outback Motortek.
The waving problem at speed is most likely incorrect suspension settings in relation to the weight you carried when traveling or perhaps bad weight distribution front-to-back. Sticking out panniers also tend to do that due to aerodynamic forces. Lastly how much you lower or lifted the forks in the triple tree could also be a factor.
All points you make may be valid. One thing though is that after lowering pressure in the tires and riding them for a while (I bought them 2nd hand so I needed to bed them a bit to my bike/style) the waving improved enormously.
I've not lowered/raised the forks, they are stock height.
In terms of rear suspension I could not get proper sag at the time as my spring was too weak. I'm looking forward to test it now with uprated spring.
my 1090R with Tractionator Rallz tyres was way more unstable above 100kph until i dropped the pressure from 35 to about 25psi. i just ride them at 23/25psi all the time now and theyre great. still a bit unstable on the road at 120kph but nothing serious and oddly they feel fine in corners, its onlt the straights where i feel the wobble.
Hi James, I have similar experience. Once the pressure is lower (I'm used 32/36psi for Mitas E-07) they got much more stable. Also some wear had a positive impact on stability and at some point I was able to ride at 130/140 without issues.
Now with about 7000km they seems to be done (front definitely) and rear seems to be quite slippery on wet & cold which is what I have here in CZ now.
Are you just using the spacers for your front fork? You're actually the first video I've seen recommending spacers as an option. Most are recommending new forks or spring kits. Options that are about $1k or more.
I went through the progression. I added the spacers to the front forks. Then I got Rally Raid open cartridge and K-Tech rear shock upgraded piston.
For my rally it’s enough it is impressive how the front improves with better forks (of course! for the $$$). And the K-Tech in the rear is enough for me now.
If I’d only travel the spacers to get correct sag (or correct spring rate) would be still my way to go, but when at high speed it does hit its limit quickly.
First thing, thanks for one more amazing video and information. As i also have a T7, i am curious about the front axle sliders. What is our opinion about them? Do you found them usefull or not ? For on and off road. Thanks!
Hi Duarte, I've put them on after I destroyed my front fork guards so... I can't say if they'd protect them or not but I guess they would especially lower mounting bolts.
I had the sliders during the Dinaric rally and I have to say they came out very much used so they indeed to take some impact and protect the axle and surrounding are at the bottom.
So, yes seems to be worth it especially when fork guards are in one piece :)
I don’t think they’ll ever touch the pavement if the bike slides. Especially the on-off bike type. The handlebars and body are too wide to have anything else touching the forks - unless of course you hit something head on. Sliders that stick out like that are a bad idea imo, especially for off-roading when you try to squeeze your tire between rocks and ruts.
Can you make a video on the high exhaust? I'd love to do that to my t7
Hi Tomas, I'm still waiting on my Scorpion exhaust which no and no arriving. Once I have that at hand the mod will be finished. There is some more progression and I've been testing now for about 3 months and so far so good. Only issue is the passenger footpeg which is now the 1st to be hit when I drop the bike and I'm not sure how long it will survive.
@@FARANDFURTHER I'd rather break a passenger peg than an exhaust eheheh
Good luck with the mod and pls do a video of it when it's finished
@@TomasLonGo Hehe :) I've been exploring some options for exhaust protection. Maybe well placed heat shield would do the trick? Or some kind of heavy duty sticker not to scratch it on the 1st day out ;)
@@FARANDFURTHER the problem isn't even the exhaust itself. But the exhaust's support is super weak and it's welded to the frame. It bends everytime you fall to the right side 🤦♂️🤦♂️ Yamaha should have thought about this a bit longer
@@TomasLonGo Indeed, for that the high mod seems to be the only solution. I'd hope that Tenere 700 2022 will have it by default.
What high exhaust kit is that? Looks awesome
Hi Tomas, that is custom made exhaust modification done by Punk moto garage in the Czechia. I'm going to have fininal version in the next few weeks with the Scorpion exhaust.
Hello. I saw that you were wearing the Leatt body armour in a previous video. I am looking to purchase one very soon. I would really appreciate hearing your opinion of the armour.
I'm thinking doing a video about the gear for the rally. I had a talk this weekend and a lot of people were interested...
@@FARANDFURTHER Yeah and what about your bag pack/ hydration pack? Thank you 🙏
@@zibebouisset4246 Hi, I'm using USWE Ranger 3 hydration pack.
i have a question about you high placed front fender, doe you as the driver get very wet in the rain on the road ? more than the original front fender ? greetings from the Netherlands
Hi Rudy, I would love to answer that question but unfortunately there was no wet riding during the rally or on my way there and back... we will have to wait for that knowledge... :)
Hi. I bought the Shido because you recommended it. Do you happen to also have oxford heated grips? If you do, are those ran directly to the battery? Many thanks
I have not had any issue so far with the Shido battery. It did start the bike on the first click even at -6 but you could feel the battery was not happy about that. So next time, still the same temperature I let the bike on for few minutes (just lights) which warms up the battery and it was much more happy.
I have oxfords, I think I have them connected to the T7 plug for the heated grips as that plug is provided by Yamaha.
@@FARANDFURTHER Thank you very much for your answer. Do you happen to have a link for that plug? Did you have to cut the wiring or was it plug and play?
For the Oxford grips you want to use the Yamaha provided connector, you will need to get the crimping tool and the pins though. This is the connector which is on the bike:
www.motokonektory.cz/sady-konektoru/sady-konektoru-3-polove/sada-vodotesneho-konektoru-2-2-mm-3-poly-trojuhelnik
As I said you can cut on the Oxford side and use the 3 pin from bike to connect.
@@FARANDFURTHER Thanks a lot. After your previous comment I started googling. Both connectors and grips are pn their way :)
I’m back to annoy you even more! I have the grips but havent installed them yet because so many report that they come loose. Has this happened to you, what did you use to get them fitted? Many thanks, the information is appreciated.
I’m 1.68 as well do you use the lowered seat?
I tried lower seat, I have it now but in my opinion it does not make much difference and it is substantially harder than the standard one. I now added a CoolCovers which raises it to the standard height while providing more comfort without raising the seat height as it wild with standard seat. So far happy with the solution.
Did you mention the foot pegs?
Nope, I’m still running the stock ones, for some reason.
@@FARANDFURTHER Just ordered some Bosley pegs from Czech republic. Lowered ones in rally size. If they’re too wide and low in technical stuff I’ll order some MX ones.
0:26 has KTM already sued? 😂😂😂😂
ill just say heed bunker
Huh?
@@FARANDFURTHER crash bars
Outback Motortek