Happy New Year, glad to see you back! Did the same for my enclosure, used a cheap Walmart vacuum with a knock off cyclone/pail. Like your side windows, its now on my to do list.
Thanks.... I built me a new computer so I can edit my videos without it taking hours upon hours to do, and I'm ready to get to work making more. Thanks for watching.. The side windows do help .
For you blast gate on the front face extended a small 2 inch face plate that you can screw a hole through and into the other piece and place a dowel pin in the up position
Thanks for the info, I still have to build my enclosure, it is one of the steps in an almost complete rebuild of my workshop. I just bought a smaller Rigid Shopvac to better fit in the enclosure with the cyclone so I have more room to store Shapeoko tools, clamps, computer, etc in the cabinet under the torsion box. I'm also planning on using a box for the dust that is lower and probably longer to better take advantage of the form factor in the cabinet and build a Thien type of cyclone instead of the Dust Deputy again because it would cut on the height of the setup. A few comments on your current setup: I would think that the pipes between the shopvac and the Dust Deputy would probably be better if you used rigid tubing as it has less resistance. While I understand you have the monitor on top of the enclosure, I think it would be more efficient to have the rigid tube enter near the middle of the enclosure roof so your flexible pipe would be supported, you would not need the bungee, the line would also be shorter. Do you find that the Shopvac overheats in the enclosed cabinet?
Hey just curious how you are grounding your vacuum hose. We have a Shapeoko CNC machine also and we’re getting a lot of static through the vacuum line any suggestions
Same here. I wrapped the flex hose with stranded copper wire and grounded the fixed end. Without that, static would discharge through the wiring and make the controller freeze up. I'm curious to know what this guy did.
Does the dust boot thing get in the way or an announce of you zeroing the the unit? Just ordered my xxl today so I guess I have a week or so it get everything figured out. Thanks! Definitely appreciate your videos
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 I think an easy solution could be drilling a hole for a pit through the outside enclosure and into the gate when its being held up. Then you just have to push in a dowel to lock it in. Could even get fancy and go with one of the "locking" pins that have a springloaded ball on the end.
I love your enclosure. very nice. I have read where PVC should not be used, because of static electricity. Any comments on that? Thanks for the very informative Vids.
I've heard people say it's bad, and people say it doesnt matter. I have not seen anything with my setup. I haven't been zapped yet FWIW. I know some people ground their PVC systems. I wont go that far until I see something happen.
I've been watching your vids for a while now, and building my enclosure for my Shapeoko 3 xxl. I just finished the Shapeoko build, and got the suckit dust boot in this week. I also got the same hose you recommended, and was wondering if you could tell me what fitting you use from hose to dust boot? Thanks. Looking forward to more vids.
Thanks for sharing, what dimensions is the pipe work? 4 inch? Any issues with the 90 degree bends? ( Iv seen so many videos saying to make longer sweeps for bends) Iv not set my dust collection up yet so I don’t have much experience of that. Fancy posting a quick video of it in action please? Cheers
It's 2", and I heard that as well however I have not experienced any problems. I think on a small scale like mine with the short runs of pipe the suction is great enough that it does not affect it.
Nice to see you back. Nice setup on the dust collection. I’ve heard where 90 degree kills suction. What have you experienced? I used sweeping 90 deg on my dust collection and have zero complaint. I did end up grounding mine due to static. Do you have any problem with static?
I haven't had any problem with either. The runs are so short, and the vac is pretty powerful for my small needs that the 90 degree bends don't really matter. I haven't noticed anything with static at this point.
How long can you run your shop vac during a cut? I was told that they burn up pretty quickly. Can you run the it for 2 the 3 hours. Or do you run it 30 minutes at a time.
I have run it for up to an hour before without any problems. I'm not sure how long they can go without needing to cool off. Honestly I don't really ever run for more than an hour or so, so for me it's not much of a problem.
A lot of people save it, mix it with glue and use it as a filler. Only problem with that is if there is MDF, Plywood, Oak, etc... Not to metion if you use metal, plastics mixed in you might get a pretty gnarly result. And that's not a good thing. Other than that I don't use mine for anything except putting it in the dumpster.
Finally getting my XXL about ready to cut real stuff. Just need to get my dust collection setup so I don't have to chase it around. Surfacing the other day resulted in me not keeping up and still finding dust here and there. May break down and buy the dust shoe if I don't make something soon then an enclosure. Maybe VCarve sometime later? Thanks for the videos, keep it up. Oh, I put in a router speed control from Harbor Freight and it keeps my vacuum at a slow speed or full if needed. $20 www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html
I have watched your video about making the CNC enclosure. I live in East Texas where it is hot and humid. I noticed your Texas flag on various things in your shop so I assume you live in Texas. Since the climate here is hot in the summer what are you going to do about getting heat out of the enclosure. I have seen some builds where they put fans in and others that do not. Since some folks live in milder climates the ventalation may not be necessary. I used to live in Houston but now live much further north but it is still as hot as Houston here in the summer. What do you think about getting air in and out of the CNC enclosure? I have a Shapeoko XXL which is on a 4'x4' table. Do you think you may need to add ventalation for the interior of you cabinet. I will be making an enclosure if the dust boot I am having my son in law 3d print for me does not work and want to plan for the hot months. The past few months did not need the heat removed because it has been a cold winter but summer is almost here with 95+ days in my shop.
I guess I would have to start my answer with a question. What about the machine other than the rubber belts would be affected by a little higher heat? I think the hottest it gets in my shop is probably 100 degrees in the middle of summer. In the enclosure while it's running I can't imagine it gets toooo much hotter. I may have to test it out. I ran it last summer with no problems, and no ventilation. If I were to add a fan I think a filter would need to be installed as well.
Thanks for your reply. My concern is for the controller. The router may get a little hot but there seems to be good airflow through my Dewalt 611. The XXL makes a mess and right now I can roll the table outside under my covered patio and when through I just vacuum the table and blow the excess dust off with a blower. I am rearranging my shop to accommodate the larger table and it may not be possible to wheel it outside due to the other equipment in the way. Plus there are rainy days here and a big storm gets the whole patio wet even though it is covered.
@@gdonham1203 I'm not sure what temperature is considered "safe" for the control board, but 2 things I know for sure. It wouldn't hurt anything to add an exhaust fan, and if I don't and it overheats I'll come back to this conversation and say "well looks like us here in Texas are gonna have to cool our enclosures, Glad I could be the test case :-)"
I found this information on the carbide3d forum: The belts have an operating temperature range of -30-180° F. The ATMEGA328 chip on the controller is rated from -55 to +125 C. Usually the concern is cold and warming and condensation on the electronics. A number of folks keep their machines in garages - the big concern is belt anchoring / tensioning - that said, the mechanical fastening of the M5 bolts and PEM nuts shouldn’t be affected much by temperature unlike some of the previous techniques (DAMHIKT) - just using the standard operating …
I definitely need some extraction on my cabinet. This looks like a good solution.
Love the videos man. You give a lot of great ideas to a fellow novice shapeoko-ing Texan. Cheers
Happy New Year, glad to see you back! Did the same for my enclosure, used a cheap Walmart vacuum with a knock off cyclone/pail. Like your side windows, its now on my to do list.
Thanks.... I built me a new computer so I can edit my videos without it taking hours upon hours to do, and I'm ready to get to work making more. Thanks for watching.. The side windows do help .
Glad to see a video! When I get my Shapeoko I am doing this it’s great!
For the blast gates, you can use a cabinet door magnet to hold it in place. Might not be strong enough but you can just use multiple.
I love your Cabinet!! Awesome JOB!!
Great video. Thanks for posting. I hope to get a Shapeoko soon..
For you blast gate on the front face extended a small 2 inch face plate that you can screw a hole through and into the other piece and place a dowel pin in the up position
Thanks for the info, I still have to build my enclosure, it is one of the steps in an almost complete rebuild of my workshop. I just bought a smaller Rigid Shopvac to better fit in the enclosure with the cyclone so I have more room to store Shapeoko tools, clamps, computer, etc in the cabinet under the torsion box. I'm also planning on using a box for the dust that is lower and probably longer to better take advantage of the form factor in the cabinet and build a Thien type of cyclone instead of the Dust Deputy again because it would cut on the height of the setup. A few comments on your current setup: I would think that the pipes between the shopvac and the Dust Deputy would probably be better if you used rigid tubing as it has less resistance. While I understand you have the monitor on top of the enclosure, I think it would be more efficient to have the rigid tube enter near the middle of the enclosure roof so your flexible pipe would be supported, you would not need the bungee, the line would also be shorter. Do you find that the Shopvac overheats in the enclosed cabinet?
On the vertical blast gate, drill a hole and use one of the inserts from your waste board and a thumb screw. No need to rotate it.
Use the bracket bungee ball setup for the blast gate in the cabinet.
Hey man! How well does the Shop Vac with cyclone suck? Do you find alot of dust still?
just what i needed. thanks!
Great set up.
How do you handle static electricity?
My question is is a shot back enough for just a CNC machine for wood purposes or is a major dust collector needed?
Thanks for sharing your ideas, you do a great job explaining them. Do you run the Rigid vac continuously?
Hey just curious how you are grounding your vacuum hose. We have a Shapeoko CNC machine also and we’re getting a lot of static through the vacuum line any suggestions
Same here. I wrapped the flex hose with stranded copper wire and grounded the fixed end. Without that, static would discharge through the wiring and make the controller freeze up. I'm curious to know what this guy did.
Does the dust boot thing get in the way or an announce of you zeroing the the unit? Just ordered my xxl today so I guess I have a week or so it get everything figured out. Thanks! Definitely appreciate your videos
Welcome back...could you turn that first blast gate 90 degrees, then you wont fight gravity...cheers.
Not where it is. The cabinet and other piping gets in the way
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 I think an easy solution could be drilling a hole for a pit through the outside enclosure and into the gate when its being held up. Then you just have to push in a dowel to lock it in. Could even get fancy and go with one of the "locking" pins that have a springloaded ball on the end.
where did you get your dust boot?
Love the set up. What do you use, or how do you make sure you have a positive air pressure coming into the enclosure?
I was just about to ask the same question. I forgot that on my build and it shattered my plexiglass front pannel,
This is great! do you know what reducer you used to connect your hose to the sweepy dust boot?
I love your enclosure. very nice. I have read where PVC should not be used, because of static electricity. Any comments on that? Thanks for the very informative Vids.
I've heard people say it's bad, and people say it doesnt matter. I have not seen anything with my setup. I haven't been zapped yet FWIW. I know some people ground their PVC systems. I wont go that far until I see something happen.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 Thanks for your reply. Like I said I like your set up.
I've been watching your vids for a while now, and building my enclosure for my Shapeoko 3 xxl. I just finished the Shapeoko build, and got the suckit dust boot in this week. I also got the same hose you recommended, and was wondering if you could tell me what fitting you use from hose to dust boot? Thanks. Looking forward to more vids.
Sorry, I think you got this fitting with the older version of the dust boot. The new pro version is different. Thanks anyway.
Thanks for sharing, what dimensions is the pipe work? 4 inch? Any issues with the 90 degree bends? ( Iv seen so many videos saying to make longer sweeps for bends) Iv not set my dust collection up yet so I don’t have much experience of that. Fancy posting a quick video of it in action please? Cheers
It's 2", and I heard that as well however I have not experienced any problems. I think on a small scale like mine with the short runs of pipe the suction is great enough that it does not affect it.
Nice to see you back. Nice setup on the dust collection. I’ve heard where 90 degree kills suction. What have you experienced? I used sweeping 90 deg on my dust collection and have zero complaint. I did end up grounding mine due to static. Do you have any problem with static?
I haven't had any problem with either. The runs are so short, and the vac is pretty powerful for my small needs that the 90 degree bends don't really matter. I haven't noticed anything with static at this point.
Hows the static? I've been looking at the black tubing just because it resists the static.
I have not had any trouble with static.
How long can you run your shop vac during a cut? I was told that they burn up pretty quickly. Can you run the it for 2 the 3 hours. Or do you run it 30 minutes at a time.
I have run it for up to an hour before without any problems. I'm not sure how long they can go without needing to cool off. Honestly I don't really ever run for more than an hour or so, so for me it's not much of a problem.
Can you do anything useful with the collected dust?
A lot of people save it, mix it with glue and use it as a filler. Only problem with that is if there is MDF, Plywood, Oak, etc... Not to metion if you use metal, plastics mixed in you might get a pretty gnarly result. And that's not a good thing. Other than that I don't use mine for anything except putting it in the dumpster.
Finally getting my XXL about ready to cut real stuff. Just need to get my dust collection setup so I don't have to chase it around. Surfacing the other day resulted in me not keeping up and still finding dust here and there. May break down and buy the dust shoe if I don't make something soon then an enclosure. Maybe VCarve sometime later? Thanks for the videos, keep it up.
Oh, I put in a router speed control from Harbor Freight and it keeps my vacuum at a slow speed or full if needed. $20 www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html
Just surfaced mine today, should've waited for dust boot to get here.
Yeah,live and learn lol@@johnross3251
I have watched your video about making the CNC enclosure. I live in East Texas where it is hot and humid. I noticed your Texas flag on various things in your shop so I assume you live in Texas. Since the climate here is hot in the summer what are you going to do about getting heat out of the enclosure. I have seen some builds where they put fans in and others that do not. Since some folks live in milder climates the ventalation may not be necessary. I used to live in Houston but now live much further north but it is still as hot as Houston here in the summer. What do you think about getting air in and out of the CNC enclosure? I have a Shapeoko XXL which is on a 4'x4' table. Do you think you may need to add ventalation for the interior of you cabinet. I will be making an enclosure if the dust boot I am having my son in law 3d print for me does not work and want to plan for the hot months. The past few months did not need the heat removed because it has been a cold winter but summer is almost here with 95+ days in my shop.
I guess I would have to start my answer with a question. What about the machine other than the rubber belts would be affected by a little higher heat? I think the hottest it gets in my shop is probably 100 degrees in the middle of summer. In the enclosure while it's running I can't imagine it gets toooo much hotter. I may have to test it out. I ran it last summer with no problems, and no ventilation. If I were to add a fan I think a filter would need to be installed as well.
Thanks for your reply. My concern is for the controller. The router may get a little hot but there seems to be good airflow through my Dewalt 611. The XXL makes a mess and right now I can roll the table outside under my covered patio and when through I just vacuum the table and blow the excess dust off with a blower. I am rearranging my shop to accommodate the larger table and it may not be possible to wheel it outside due to the other equipment in the way. Plus there are rainy days here and a big storm gets the whole patio wet even though it is covered.
@@gdonham1203 I'm not sure what temperature is considered "safe" for the control board, but 2 things I know for sure. It wouldn't hurt anything to add an exhaust fan, and if I don't and it overheats I'll come back to this conversation and say "well looks like us here in Texas are gonna have to cool our enclosures, Glad I could be the test case :-)"
I found this information on the carbide3d forum: The belts have an operating temperature range of -30-180° F. The ATMEGA328 chip on the controller is rated from -55 to +125 C. Usually the concern is cold and warming and condensation on the electronics. A number of folks keep their machines in garages - the big concern is belt anchoring / tensioning - that said, the mechanical fastening of the M5 bolts and PEM nuts shouldn’t be affected much by temperature unlike some of the previous techniques (DAMHIKT) - just using the standard operating …
Uh hem