To see the FULL lesson, including recommendations, diagrams and extra tips, visit my FREE Online Woodworking School here: mattestlea.com/tutorials/how-to-sharpen-a-chisel-to-a-razor-sharp-edge/ Seriously, there's no sign up or anything. Just click that link and prepared to be mindblown.
Very useful addition to the tool sharpening content out there, lots of answers to questions that older videos leave a viewer with. Your Tormec now sports a diamond wheel?
First one showed missing parts. Second one was complete. It's a working bench grinder czcams.com/users/postUgkxxC8HPnl24fu0XhMU_nbmWNEUoK1RMHXk . One thing I like alot is that it's surprisingly quiet. I don't feel like I'm sacrificing any rpms or power for the quietness either. All in all it's a very nice machine. No vibration whatsoever.
@@mariushegli Wow, someone is treating you well then. Anyway, the methods and techniques of sharping edged tools apply to all - just warn her beforehand that you sharpen the kitchen knifes.
I'm 53 years old and started woodworking/carpentry about 15 years ago. I'm self taught with most things but when it comes to the science/art of using and sharpening chisels, I'm as green as they come. For years I've stood on the proverbial sidelines and watched others make amazing things with hand tools like chisels and planes, but never had the nerve to try because the sharpening process seemed to be beyond me. Thanks to this, I've decided to take the plunge and force myself to finally learn something new. Thanks Matt, for such an excellent, in depth yet easy to understand lesson on how to get this sorted. My gratitude is great!
Love the show however. Paul sellers actually teaches just like you he uses the guide to set primary bevels and freehands his secondary. But he always says exactly what you say to do what works for you. Cheers man. Keep up the great work
I spent 20 years not using a honing guide, as a cabinet maker/ bench joiner, I used a bench grinder for the 25° but did the secondary bevel by hand to get good results. I recently tried the veritas guide and now I wouldn't go back to free hand, I love them and definitely not just for beginners, I've found I have to sharpen my tools less frequently, and yes in 20 years I've never had an issue with a concave primary bevel.
Dunno if you'll see this Matt but Id just like to say thanks for the quality content. Its authentic..showing the cheap way to do things for those on a budget and not sponsor bias...seems like so many of these channels are touting the highest price tools and equipment and it gets exhausting..so thanks for being original and producing quality content for the rest of us. Really enjoy your videos.
Matt, this is beautifully illustrative of the bevel procession over time. The sand paper as prop makes it so clear. Thank you for the great content, i like the quietness of this video. Be well mate.
Your paper representation of the blade and removing portions to show the primary and secondary bevel really helped me understand and visualize what was happening. Excellent teaching! I understand things much better when I see something while it is orally explained. Also, +1 on the Anarchist’s tool chest in the background.
Your lessons are excellent. I can't believe I haven't found your channel sooner. I purchased my first honing guide this year (a cheaper model made by Draper) but I wasn't sure if I was using it correctly. My chisel is still pretty dire so I shall be revisiting it again with your advice and techniques. Thank you.
Excellent video. I struggled for a long time with sharpening due to multiple bevels meaning I was missing the tip in removing material. I learnt that you confirm you are sharpening properly by creating a burr. If there is no burr you are not removing material from the cutting edge.
Don't know how many sharpening videos I've watched (what is it about them that makes them so fun/interesting), but this explained everything in so much more depth and clarity than anything I've seen before. Thank you so much!
thank you for a very interesting video. i loved how you went into details of why the different angles of primary and secondary. very impressive overall.
I have to say this was the best and most informative sharpening video I have yet to see including cosman, katsmoses, the wood whisperer, sellers and lie-neilson
This is the best, easiest to follow guide I have found. I especially appreciate the time take to explain what each process is achieving and, how all links together - without that, it can be confusing but this video made total sense to me. Right, off to open some paint tins…
Excellent video! People like me need to know this. I have some planes that are dull that are gonna get some proper sharpening now. Thanks for this so much
As a carpenter I use one angle 25 degrees which I found to be more durable and keeps its sharpness and durability longer , it also could be down to the metal as well. I use Marples resin handled chisels from 6mm up to 2". I used to use 2 bevels and have no doubt as a furniture maker that works best but for all round carpentry at the moment 1 angle works best but that may change as I get older, As you say it's what floats your boat. There is no right or wrong only being open and humble to learning
I never knew the measurements for the Protrusion Stop was on the side of the Honing Guide until it was pointed out by you. I'm drawing one up on my CAD Software. Thank you very much!
He is AWSOME! Really very informative, if i had teachers like him back in the day- i would have been more interested in History etc! his voice is plesant to listen to also👍😇
Another great video. The thing I like about the way you teach is that you're willing to listen to new arguments and think about them. Also, I know it isn't important but go on, check how close to the desired angles your protrusion stop gives you (bevel box). And finally, what about going straight back to the strop regularly to keep the edge? I find it really increases the time between going back to the stone, any disadvantages?
I bought cheap Stanley chisels as a teen in the 1970’s. I got sick of sharpening everyday so last year I machined some carbide ends at 3/8” long by the chisel width and thickness and brazed then perfectly on each of the eight chisels. Now they last for weeks before needing a strop with some diamond past. It gave them new life and I’m still using them 50 years later! (Though I do like to finish stoning the edge to 12,000 grit using an undersea quarry Japanese blue limestone water stone before stroping to 22,000 and 30,000 paste polish.
I'd just like to say!! Thank you so much, on how to sharpen chisels, I'm so frustrated 😩 at this time as mine would not cut butter, I've learned so much from your youtube video, I've just brought a homing guide, I do need to no!! How to find my angles though, I seen you have a gauge to find your angles, thank you for time, efforts, and wonderful teaching, I now feel I'm on my way to sharpen my chisels.
Great Video Matt - thanks for the refresher and some great tips. Your simplification with two grits of water stones is helpful I'm used to working up from lower grits. But looking forward to just 1000 and 6000. Loved the iron bar chiseling :-) regards
I’ve been sharpening my chisels and plane blades on DMT diamond plates for a couple of months now, and thought I was getting a pretty good edge. On Friday though, I had a run down to the Warrington branch of Axminster Tools. Amongst other things, I picked up one of the strop/honing compound kits. Today I used the strop for the first time. O. M. G! What a result. I’ve never known it so easy to cut into wood. Consider me a convert.
Thank you for the great video. Your channel has really made me interested in woodworking. Would you consider making a video about Strops in the future?
Thanks for the great video! I use a veritas honing guide and while I can freehand everything fairly well, but my 1/4” chisel, I still like it. I prefer not to do a secondary bevel, myself. I think you are quite correct about it being whatever works for me. :) I kept my inexpensive honing guide , too. I keep a strop around for constant refreshing of the edge if needed. Again, thanks for the excellent info and techniques.
You really put into fantastic focus just how important it is to do this for chisels... (I never took it as seriously as I should've but after seeing this video, I know now why I should've. Ha.)
Dear Matt, that is a great video! I in particular like you using the piece of paper for clarifying geometry issues. Some issue, comments however: (1) There could be a section on problems e. g. no burr occurring. (2) Furthermore, uneven sharpening (out of square), and fixing it, is not addressed. The guiding wheel does not prevent that. Actually, in principle a good thing as it allows you to round the edges of plane blades. (3) A glass plate with abrasive paper (e.g. 80) speeds up regrinding primary bevel dramatically in comparison to a coarse stone. (4) Paul Sellers shows how to make a honing strop. (5) There is a new relatively cheap guide from Veritas. A review would be good (adds on your previous ones on the MK). I bought the Henry Eckert one from AU as the Nielson was out of stock. It also works with spokeshave blades. After 3 years I changed to sharpening freehand using the method Paul Sellers describes. It helped me overcoming skew. For very small chisels (less than 10 mm) still using a guide. I am not dogmatic, but my feeling is that practicing and mastering freehand sharpening develops skills you need a lot in woodworking. Cheers for these great videos Matt!
Thanks Matt, I’ve tried a few methods but have finally settled on a Veritas guide and a combination of of Trend and Shapton stones, and yes it works every bloody time! My advice, concentrate on honing and not sharpening.
Now right off, the first part of this video on the bevels was very informative. I'd known that chisels should have two bevels, but didn't quite understand the mechanics behind it (I'd figured it was to do with giving a more robust edge, i.e. because a 25 degree edge would be 'thinner') but this video was a good deal more convincing as to why I wanted the bevel - and I'll likely stop trying to do both my 25 and 30 degree bevels every time I sharpen. Thank you for this video!
He doesn't use them for chisels as he prefers to create a convex curved bevel. Only uses them on say a plane blade that needs serious correction then free hands the last stages to get the same convex bevel.
A lot of similarities in technique and arguments for/against guides in my own profession, running a chainsaw. Quite often, people will look at the top of the tooth, see a nice triangular profile and assume that means it's sharp, not realizing the bulk of the cutting work is being done by the side edge of the tooth. Proper sized files and positioning are key to getting a good sharp chain. The last ten years or so, I've learned- much like some of the guys you mentioned- how to sharpen a chain freehand, and seen the results of someone trying to do the same without the same muscle memory.....and heard the same arguments about 'wasting' time setting up a file guide. Definitely a habit I should make more of an effort to get into, especially with longer chains where the extra two minutes will save twenty after you skip it off a stone and need to redo the whole thing again. Late to the party, but rapidly falling in love with the channel- keep up the good work!
That was an excellent tutorial on sharpening a chisel. I have notice that many say that, once the back is flattened and polished, it does not need to be polished again. Yet you seem to always polish the back. I would be interested in your comments on this.
All my chisels have been vintage chisels, so I’ve almost never seen what “good” sharpening looks like. Trying to sharpen them on a water stone just hasn’t been happening, I got higher grits and stops. Still nothing. Then I got a honing guide and realised “omg sooo much needed grinding away to get that 25deg angle correct” ended up getting a small bench grinder. Then honed them with the honing guide. And now I know what sharp is 😁😁 cheers for this fantastic video
Fantastic tips, Matt! Thanks a lot! 😃 I guess I'm going to start with sandpapers... But I already think about getting some stones like those! Stay safe there! 🖖😊
I started with sandpaper too - and, in fact, I'm still using it for grinding a new primary bevel when needed - but after a while I got fed up with sandpaper for regular sharpening. And you don't really _need_ expensive stones or even more expensive diamond plates. The double-sided ones you find on Amazon for $30 or so will do just fine. One problem with the less expensive (and smaller) stones is that the sharpening will take longer because you'll have to do shorter strokes - but we're talking something like, say, 45 seconds instead of 30. A second problem is that they will not last as long as a bigger one because each grit is a thinner piece. But here again we're talking something like maybe 8 years vs 12... That's at a guess. I've been using one of these stones for the better part of a decade and, while it's got visibly thinner than it was at the beginning, especially the coarser side, I'll still be able to use it for at least 4-5 years. Now what you need to pay more attention to are the honing guides. The cheaper ones, in my experience, tend not to hold well the blades, especially narrower chisels. They'll grip them at an angle, instead of perfectly square. Then again, unlike plane irons, it's not a really big deal if the cutting edge of a chisel is not perfectly square.
I met a man from Lie-Nielsen who said he used a 10 000 grit waterstone and no strop. I bought a 12 000 stone and have not looked back since. But you really have to be gentle and do a little bit on both sides. Gets scary sharp! And I agree with Matt; get a honing guide!
If you did want to sharpen a chisel by hand, then a concave bevel would help you a lot. You grind one primary bevel (no secondary) at the final cutting angle, then it's easy to feel when you're free-hand holding at the correct angle, because only the tip and back side of the bevel are touching the stone (because of the concave). You'll feel it lock down at the correct angle, and not rock.
If I could count the number of chisels I've had and gone through in my years of carpentery. I buy them and try so hard keeping them. I really need to get one of those angle clamps. I do have a slow speed fat wheel sharpener but have never done a secondary bevel. Very cool. Thanks.
Many experts just use one bevel for their chisels, with water stones it's no problem to remove the extra material and you have a stronger edge which won't need re-grinding. It's worth a try, whatever works for you etc.
Glad to know my technique of hanging the chisel out my car door with my foot as I drive (to sharpen it on the asphalt) is not something to be ashamed of
Best sharpening video on you tube. People need to start here. I will go free hand on site because time is money. Double sided diamond stone and a leather strop because it is lightweight in my tool bag, fast, dry and convenient. The 25 degree primary bevel is the guide for the secondary bevel. Blunt chisels go home at the end of the day where I use a guide and a fast cutting diamond stone to get a consistent primary bevel. When I’m bored and have the time I’ll use Waterstones to get a very sexy Secondary bevel.
Hi Matt, Love your videos man keep up the great work. Question; if my chisels are brand new out-of-the-box, which usually do not come very sharp from what I hear, do I need to do anything with the primary bevel, or do I just skip to the secondary bevel? Thank you brother
Excellent video and thank you for the in depth explanation at each phase. That is a key differentiator between a youtuber and a true teacher. Brilliant. Also your link below to your online school produces a 404 page just FYI.
Nice video thx, just bought my first (cheap cause I'll wreck it probably) chiselset and some whetstones, so will try it soon myself. But I don't have a iron block or cilinder can I use a concrete block too?
To see the FULL lesson, including recommendations, diagrams and extra tips, visit my FREE Online Woodworking School here:
mattestlea.com/tutorials/how-to-sharpen-a-chisel-to-a-razor-sharp-edge/
Seriously, there's no sign up or anything. Just click that link and prepared to be mindblown.
Very useful addition to the tool sharpening content out there, lots of answers to questions that older videos leave a viewer with. Your Tormec now sports a diamond wheel?
Down and dirty, right to the point. Thats what all instructional wood working videos should be. Damn right get it done. Shlamalama bing bong.😃
Not the veritas!
link does not work. Can reach site if you goto community tab on main page and then click on toolbox link.
Link isn't working at the moment!
First one showed missing parts. Second one was complete. It's a working bench grinder czcams.com/users/postUgkxxC8HPnl24fu0XhMU_nbmWNEUoK1RMHXk . One thing I like alot is that it's surprisingly quiet. I don't feel like I'm sacrificing any rpms or power for the quietness either. All in all it's a very nice machine. No vibration whatsoever.
I don't even own a chisel, but I still watched start to end and enjoyed it.
Agree! How he had only 250K subscribers is outrageous...
@@adorkable81 Now I actually own two chissels tho! Got two Lie Nielsens for Christmas 😊
@@mariushegli Wow, someone is treating you well then. Anyway, the methods and techniques of sharping edged tools apply to all - just warn her beforehand that you sharpen the kitchen knifes.
Brilliant explanation to the lamen on the 2 angles and consistency 👏
The first 20 seconds were the most soul crushing thing I've seen in a long time
Best sharpening video on the internet - period.
I'm 53 years old and started woodworking/carpentry about 15 years ago. I'm self taught with most things but when it comes to the science/art of using and sharpening chisels, I'm as green as they come. For years I've stood on the proverbial sidelines and watched others make amazing things with hand tools like chisels and planes, but never had the nerve to try because the sharpening process seemed to be beyond me. Thanks to this, I've decided to take the plunge and force myself to finally learn something new.
Thanks Matt, for such an excellent, in depth yet easy to understand lesson on how to get this sorted. My gratitude is great!
Love the show however. Paul sellers actually teaches just like you he uses the guide to set primary bevels and freehands his secondary. But he always says exactly what you say to do what works for you. Cheers man. Keep up the great work
It's so satisfying seeing a sharp chisel just slide through wood
I spent 20 years not using a honing guide, as a cabinet maker/ bench joiner, I used a bench grinder for the 25° but did the secondary bevel by hand to get good results. I recently tried the veritas guide and now I wouldn't go back to free hand, I love them and definitely not just for beginners, I've found I have to sharpen my tools less frequently, and yes in 20 years I've never had an issue with a concave primary bevel.
Crystal clear. Explained in logical sequence of ‘points’. Steps explained are steps understood and thus remembered.
'At the expense of your ❤ rate' thats an awesome line there bro 💯
not sure how this demo cud have been any better, ur a natural born teacher mate.
This is a really comprehensive and well done lesson. Thank you (and everyone involved in the creation of the video) for your efforts!
Bravo Matt! One of the most comprehensive explanations I have watched on the subject!
Phenomenal. This the most thorough explanation of this process imaginable. With those humourous asides the wit is also sharp.
Dunno if you'll see this Matt but Id just like to say thanks for the quality content. Its authentic..showing the cheap way to do things for those on a budget and not sponsor bias...seems like so many of these channels are touting the highest price tools and equipment and it gets exhausting..so thanks for being original and producing quality content for the rest of us. Really enjoy your videos.
Thanks Matt. I truly enjoy watching you do these type of lessons. I learn a lot from them.
The best explanation and demonstration of chisel sharpening I've seen!
Very, very thorough! Although I've been doing some manual woodworking for a while I managed to get many tips on how to improve it! Thanks!
Best teacher ever! thank you so much Matt!
One of the Best Lessons on Sharpening I've had the pleasure to watch. Thank You Matt.
Matt, this is beautifully illustrative of the bevel procession over time. The sand paper as prop makes it so clear. Thank you for the great content, i like the quietness of this video. Be well mate.
Your paper representation of the blade and removing portions to show the primary and secondary bevel really helped me understand and visualize what was happening. Excellent teaching! I understand things much better when I see something while it is orally explained. Also, +1 on the Anarchist’s tool chest in the background.
Your lessons are excellent. I can't believe I haven't found your channel sooner. I purchased my first honing guide this year (a cheaper model made by Draper) but I wasn't sure if I was using it correctly. My chisel is still pretty dire so I shall be revisiting it again with your advice and techniques. Thank you.
Excellent video. I struggled for a long time with sharpening due to multiple bevels meaning I was missing the tip in removing material. I learnt that you confirm you are sharpening properly by creating a burr. If there is no burr you are not removing material from the cutting edge.
Don't know how many sharpening videos I've watched (what is it about them that makes them so fun/interesting), but this explained everything in so much more depth and clarity than anything I've seen before. Thank you so much!
I am glad you made this video. The details you cover is comprehensive.
Matt, you are a great guy and mentor. Ty.
Great video! Now, I need to regrind all of my chisels to get to the "correct" angles. :) Thanks !
The best sharpening advice I have ever seen on the internet.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Matt really answered some issues I have had with my chisels.
thank you for a very interesting video. i loved how you went into details of why the different angles of primary and secondary. very impressive overall.
I have to say this was the best and most informative sharpening video I have yet to see including cosman, katsmoses, the wood whisperer, sellers and lie-neilson
12:05 screw heads on the protrusion guide all lined up - love it!
Loved the content, your delivery and your friendly manner. Thanks!
This is the best, easiest to follow guide I have found. I especially appreciate the time take to explain what each process is achieving and, how all links together - without that, it can be confusing but this video made total sense to me. Right, off to open some paint tins…
Nice sharp chisel useful as a flat head screwdriver as well!!
Excellent video! People like me need to know this. I have some planes that are dull that are gonna get some proper sharpening now. Thanks for this so much
Very very valuable information!!! Appreciate it Matt!
Great video, thank you Matt, thorough and super informative!!!! Cheers from Aus!!!!
That intro though. It physically hurt to watch, but all the while having a stuoid grin on my face. Loved it Matt!
I learned a tremendous amount from your video. Thanks for clearly explaining the sharpening process.
As a carpenter I use one angle 25 degrees which I found to be more durable and keeps its sharpness and durability longer , it also could be down to the metal as well. I use Marples resin handled chisels from 6mm up to
2". I used to use 2 bevels and have no doubt as a furniture maker that works best but for all round carpentry at the moment 1 angle works best but that may change as I get older, As you say it's what floats your boat.
There is no right or wrong only being open and humble to learning
Best video tutorials on youtube! Thank you!
I never knew the measurements for the Protrusion Stop was on the side of the Honing Guide until it was pointed out by you. I'm drawing one up on my CAD Software. Thank you very much!
Excellent video, very well explained. Thankyou for sharing.
He is AWSOME! Really very informative, if i had teachers like him back in the day- i would have been more interested in History etc! his voice is plesant to listen to also👍😇
Fantastic video. Thank you for sharing this!
Matt, Brilliant video and so well explained!
Matt this is awesome, tnx for so many details
Another great video. The thing I like about the way you teach is that you're willing to listen to new arguments and think about them. Also, I know it isn't important but go on, check how close to the desired angles your protrusion stop gives you (bevel box).
And finally, what about going straight back to the strop regularly to keep the edge? I find it really increases the time between going back to the stone, any disadvantages?
Great video Mat! Very helpful and entertaining as always.
I bought cheap Stanley chisels as a teen in the 1970’s. I got sick of sharpening everyday so last year I machined some carbide ends at 3/8” long by the chisel width and thickness and brazed then perfectly on each of the eight chisels. Now they last for weeks before needing a strop with some diamond past. It gave them new life and I’m still using them 50 years later! (Though I do like to finish stoning the edge to 12,000 grit using an undersea quarry Japanese blue limestone water stone before stroping to 22,000 and 30,000 paste polish.
Amazing tutorial. Gonna follow you on everything.
I'd just like to say!! Thank you so much, on how to sharpen chisels, I'm so frustrated 😩 at this time as mine would not cut butter, I've learned so much from your youtube video, I've just brought a homing guide, I do need to no!! How to find my angles though, I seen you have a gauge to find your angles, thank you for time, efforts, and wonderful teaching, I now feel I'm on my way to sharpen my chisels.
Absolutely Brilliant! Thanks Matt!
Great Video Matt - thanks for the refresher and some great tips. Your simplification with two grits of water stones is helpful I'm used to working up from lower grits. But looking forward to just 1000 and 6000. Loved the iron bar chiseling :-) regards
Can’t be any clearer! Superb explaination! Thanks a ton mate!
Great video Matt, thank you
Banging video, nice effort in cutting through some egos. Well played 🙌
I watched this.. Then bought chisels.. Im not a wood worker... Mrs now hates me... Was worth the money
I’ve been sharpening my chisels and plane blades on DMT diamond plates for a couple of months now, and thought I was getting a pretty good edge. On Friday though, I had a run down to the Warrington branch of Axminster Tools. Amongst other things, I picked up one of the strop/honing compound kits. Today I used the strop for the first time. O. M. G! What a result. I’ve never known it so easy to cut into wood. Consider me a convert.
Mm lk
First time viewer, first time chisel sharpener. Haven't sharped any yet but very grateful to have found your tutorial. Can't wait to give it a go.
Thank you for the great video. Your channel has really made me interested in woodworking. Would you consider making a video about Strops in the future?
Thanks for the great video! I use a veritas honing guide and while I can freehand everything fairly well, but my 1/4” chisel, I still like it. I prefer not to do a secondary bevel, myself. I think you are quite correct about it being whatever works for me. :) I kept my inexpensive honing guide , too. I keep a strop around for constant refreshing of the edge if needed. Again, thanks for the excellent info and techniques.
Cheers Matt this was very helpful and very well explained
Great tutorial for a learner such as myself 👍🏼
Amazing video man! Thank you so much!
Absolutely fantastic
Great video, thanks mate, good teaching style
You really put into fantastic focus just how important it is to do this for chisels... (I never took it as seriously as I should've but after seeing this video, I know now why I should've. Ha.)
Dear Matt,
that is a great video! I in particular like you using the piece of paper for clarifying geometry issues.
Some issue, comments however: (1) There could be a section on problems e. g. no burr occurring. (2) Furthermore, uneven sharpening (out of square), and fixing it, is not addressed. The guiding wheel does not prevent that. Actually, in principle a good thing as it allows you to round the edges of plane blades. (3) A glass plate with abrasive paper (e.g. 80) speeds up regrinding primary bevel dramatically in comparison to a coarse stone. (4) Paul Sellers shows how to make a honing strop. (5) There is a new relatively cheap guide from Veritas. A review would be good (adds on your previous ones on the MK). I bought the Henry Eckert one from AU as the Nielson was out of stock. It also works with spokeshave blades.
After 3 years I changed to sharpening freehand using the method Paul Sellers describes. It helped me overcoming skew. For very small chisels (less than 10 mm) still using a guide. I am not dogmatic, but my feeling is that practicing and mastering freehand sharpening develops skills you need a lot in woodworking.
Cheers for these great videos Matt!
A brilliant video. You explained the process so well. New subscriber here!
Thanks Matt, I’ve tried a few methods but have finally settled on a Veritas guide and a combination of of Trend and Shapton stones, and yes it works every bloody time! My advice, concentrate on honing and not sharpening.
Now right off, the first part of this video on the bevels was very informative. I'd known that chisels should have two bevels, but didn't quite understand the mechanics behind it (I'd figured it was to do with giving a more robust edge, i.e. because a 25 degree edge would be 'thinner')
but this video was a good deal more convincing as to why I wanted the bevel - and I'll likely stop trying to do both my 25 and 30 degree bevels every time I sharpen.
Thank you for this video!
Paul Sellers used one when sorting the squareness of the plane iron when restoring a plane. Not sure if he uses it for chisels but he uses it :-)
Think he does mate. Also glad to see someone who also watches sellers haha
He doesn't use them for chisels as he prefers to create a convex curved bevel. Only uses them on say a plane blade that needs serious correction then free hands the last stages to get the same convex bevel.
Great video thank you!
Well explained!
Omg thats actually f-ing awesome! U cleared everythink for me :)
A lot of similarities in technique and arguments for/against guides in my own profession, running a chainsaw. Quite often, people will look at the top of the tooth, see a nice triangular profile and assume that means it's sharp, not realizing the bulk of the cutting work is being done by the side edge of the tooth. Proper sized files and positioning are key to getting a good sharp chain.
The last ten years or so, I've learned- much like some of the guys you mentioned- how to sharpen a chain freehand, and seen the results of someone trying to do the same without the same muscle memory.....and heard the same arguments about 'wasting' time setting up a file guide. Definitely a habit I should make more of an effort to get into, especially with longer chains where the extra two minutes will save twenty after you skip it off a stone and need to redo the whole thing again.
Late to the party, but rapidly falling in love with the channel- keep up the good work!
Well done. A polished performance.
Really sharp means Peter Pointer heals quicker.
That was an excellent tutorial on sharpening a chisel. I have notice that many say that, once the back is flattened and polished, it does not need to be polished again. Yet you seem to always polish the back. I would be interested in your comments on this.
All my chisels have been vintage chisels, so I’ve almost never seen what “good” sharpening looks like. Trying to sharpen them on a water stone just hasn’t been happening, I got higher grits and stops. Still nothing. Then I got a honing guide and realised “omg sooo much needed grinding away to get that 25deg angle correct” ended up getting a small bench grinder. Then honed them with the honing guide. And now I know what sharp is 😁😁 cheers for this fantastic video
Fantastic tips, Matt! Thanks a lot! 😃
I guess I'm going to start with sandpapers... But I already think about getting some stones like those!
Stay safe there! 🖖😊
I started with sandpaper too - and, in fact, I'm still using it for grinding a new primary bevel when needed - but after a while I got fed up with sandpaper for regular sharpening. And you don't really _need_ expensive stones or even more expensive diamond plates. The double-sided ones you find on Amazon for $30 or so will do just fine.
One problem with the less expensive (and smaller) stones is that the sharpening will take longer because you'll have to do shorter strokes - but we're talking something like, say, 45 seconds instead of 30. A second problem is that they will not last as long as a bigger one because each grit is a thinner piece. But here again we're talking something like maybe 8 years vs 12... That's at a guess. I've been using one of these stones for the better part of a decade and, while it's got visibly thinner than it was at the beginning, especially the coarser side, I'll still be able to use it for at least 4-5 years.
Now what you need to pay more attention to are the honing guides. The cheaper ones, in my experience, tend not to hold well the blades, especially narrower chisels. They'll grip them at an angle, instead of perfectly square. Then again, unlike plane irons, it's not a really big deal if the cutting edge of a chisel is not perfectly square.
My chisel set is only good for cutting sausage, as I've just realized. Thanks Matt! 👍
I met a man from Lie-Nielsen who said he used a 10 000 grit waterstone and no strop. I bought a 12 000 stone and have not looked back since. But you really have to be gentle and do a little bit on both sides. Gets scary sharp! And I agree with Matt; get a honing guide!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Excellent tutorial - thanks! Would like to see one like that for planes.
"Your Granny's foot calluses" 🤣🤣 brilliant video Matt!
Thank you for that image in my head. I won't get m eyes closed this night... oO
Honestly
If you did want to sharpen a chisel by hand, then a concave bevel would help you a lot. You grind one primary bevel (no secondary) at the final cutting angle, then it's easy to feel when you're free-hand holding at the correct angle, because only the tip and back side of the bevel are touching the stone (because of the concave). You'll feel it lock down at the correct angle, and not rock.
Brilliant!!!
If I could count the number of chisels I've had and gone through in my years of carpentery. I buy them and try so hard keeping them. I really need to get one of those angle clamps. I do have a slow speed fat wheel sharpener but have never done a secondary bevel. Very cool. Thanks.
Many experts just use one bevel for their chisels, with water stones it's no problem to remove the extra material and you have a stronger edge which won't need re-grinding. It's worth a try, whatever works for you etc.
Glad to know my technique of hanging the chisel out my car door with my foot as I drive (to sharpen it on the asphalt) is not something to be ashamed of
Best sharpening video on you tube. People need to start here.
I will go free hand on site because time is money. Double sided diamond stone and a leather strop because it is lightweight in my tool bag, fast, dry and convenient. The 25 degree primary bevel is the guide for the secondary bevel.
Blunt chisels go home at the end of the day where I use a guide and a fast cutting diamond stone to get a consistent primary bevel. When I’m bored and have the time I’ll use Waterstones to get a very sexy Secondary bevel.
Hi Matt, Love your videos man keep up the great work. Question; if my chisels are brand new out-of-the-box, which usually do not come very sharp from what I hear, do I need to do anything with the primary bevel, or do I just skip to the secondary bevel? Thank you brother
Excellent video and thank you for the in depth explanation at each phase. That is a key differentiator between a youtuber and a true teacher. Brilliant. Also your link below to your online school produces a 404 page just FYI.
Thank You 👍✅
Great video mate. What’s your view on doing the full process on the pro edge? Can take it up to around 3000 grit on that.
Excellent video, Matt. I bought a set of Bailey chisels. Are they good for fine work, like dovetails and such? Thanks.
Nice video thx, just bought my first (cheap cause I'll wreck it probably) chiselset and some whetstones, so will try it soon myself.
But I don't have a iron block or cilinder can I use a concrete block too?