One advantage I see in this design is that, if you are cutting in the 4' direction you can have the short bars up and not cut into them. If you are cutting the 8' direction, you can turn the jig over and, again, avoid cutting any of the jig. Brilliant. *SUBSCRIBED!*
Love the simplicity of how it folds down for storage in a much smaller package. Nice simple build, explained clearly and coherently -- no "ums" or "uhs" or stammering. Very nice.
Thank you soo much for sharing! Not only did I just learn something new for space saving but I got an answer to another project I'm working on!!! You the man!!!!
Good Project. But even with the jig I’d throw a sheet of 1” foam on top and then the plywood. If you don’t , even being careful about blade depth sooner or later you’ll hit one of those steel fasteners w your saw. Ask me how I know...
Thank you for this video. I needed to break down plywood and was figuring out the best portable surface using my saw horses when I saw this. I built this and have used it a few times. Much better than a Bora accordion thingy, which reviews say is rocky and not very stable for shear, like pushing a track saw. I used select pine 2x2s because I was thinking cheap fur strip 2x2 might warp making folding difficult.
Hey bob, thanks for the comments and sharing your experience. I did have to coax some of my furring strips into place but once assembled, any warping hasn't been an issue that would keep the jig from folding smoothly. I appreciate the thoughts!
Brilliant! I love the collapsing mechanic. I think I'll be sinking me screw-heads deeper, to avoid running over them with a saw-blade, but 2x2 is plenty deep enough for that. Thank you, sir!
Thanks, Austin! Remember that you can flip it one way to do cross cuts and flip it over for long cuts. You should always be able to avoid sawing into a 2x2.
Nifty idea. I think I'll make one for myself. I've usually cut sheets on ground on top of foam insulated sheet. But I've been thinking about doing saw horses to have temporary working area outside, so with this I think I can store all that stuff nicely in my limited storage area and get decent working table for good weather. Thanks for the idea.
Hi, Tim. I made a similar jig in the early 80's. Used "Folding Cutting Table" by Stephen Wysocki from "Fine Woodworking on Proven Shop Tips", (c) 1985, page 8. Stephen's jig uses only 24 ft of 2x2s. His design uses two 72" center strips and four 36" cross strips. The cross strips are mounted on 20-inch centers and 6 inches from each end.
That sounds like it would be a lot lighter. I don't recall that magazine or project but it's possible I saw it. I devoured anything woodworking related in my formative years. Do you remember what the hardware was for it?
@@timcanthejigman7932 The reference is a book published by Fine Woodworking Magazine. The shop tip probably appeared earlier in one of the magazine's issues. The hardware consists of 8 carriage bolts (1/4x2-1/2) with washers and nuts. Countersinks are made on both the center strips and cross pieces (16 places if I counted correctly) such that the bolts, washers, and nuts are recessed approximately 3/4-inch. In addition, Stephen used lag screws (2 for each center strip, 4 total) to attach the jig to the top of wooden sawhorses. The lag screws are centered 12-inches from each end of the long center strips. (Use an appropriate fastening method if not using wooden sawhorses.)
Hey Phillip, that's good to hear! If you haven't yet, you might want to check out the update video on it I did a couple of weeks ago. I made a couple of changes. Thanks!
Great video, I made one of these several years ago inspired by one of the woodworking mags. I used dowel hinges which I purchased from Lee Valley and they work awesome. I really like your idea as those are so much easier to find the parts. Anyways this jig has saved me countless amount of times and seriously...I think the thing took maybe 45 minutes to put togetherr and as you mention it stores easliy. Just a quick tip for storage etc so you dont pinch your fingers, I used two toogle bolts at either end when folded up to lock it all together, a nut and bolt will work, but I find with a toggle bolt anchor you won't need a wrench or tighten or untighten, just your fingers. Andrew
Hey Andrew, thanks! The first one I made years ago, I used those Roto-hinges on also. We must have been inspired by the same mag but I couldn't remember which one it was. I used that one for a long time until the hinges started coming loose and the thing came apart. When I started planning to make another one and wanted to make a video of it, I knew I would get push back on the cost of Roto-hinges so that's why the hardware choice for this one. I like your idea for keeping it from pinching my fingers. Thanks!
I like this so much better than the jig I made years ago from 1x12 lumber. I cut slots halfway across the boards so they would fit together like an egg crate. Good in theory, but in practice the 1x12s warped enough to make fitting them together difficult at best. They also split off at the corners of the slots (probably from forcing together two pieces that didn't fit well.). I stopped using them a while back. Your design looks much better. I'll be building one of these soon. I like the folding aspect too--much faster to setup and take down than my egg crate monstrosity.
@@timcanthejigman7932 We'll see, there is a strong possibility. A neighbor of mine can use one for sure, every hurricane season he cuts plywood on the floor when he need to protect his place. Cheers my friend!
Excellent! I'm going to make one for my shop. I like this so much more as a solution than cutting on foam sheets because unlike foam, this won't generate a bunch of microplastic foam dust whenyou cut into it. Every little thing we can do to protect the environment counts! I also have nylon hardware that I will try using just in case I hit it with the saw. I run a school shop, so you can't always be sure the kids will avoid that kind of thing
Thanks for the comment, Evan! Bravo on the environment and bravo to you for being a shop teacher! Glad to know the one you build will get a lot of use.
I made something quite similar, but out of aluminum rectangular tubing which my dad bought at Boeing Surplus years ago. I made the cross pieces not just 48 inches but 54 inches. this allow me to clamp a saw guide onto the cross sections. I didn't think about making it foldable as you did. I think it's not too late to redo it that way. Thanks for posting this video!
If you had some folding legs that were part of this it would be really handy. The tricky part would be to make the legs work on the long cut side as well as the short cut side.
This is a brilliant idea for limited space / driveway workshops. To avoid the issue of the saw blade clashing with metal hard ware, how about using wooden dowels glued into the top and free floating in the bottom. Maybe a washer and split pin underneath to hold it all together.
Thanks for the suggestion, DesandSam! I tried to brainstorm ways to use dowels but nothing came to me that would solve having hardware on one side or the other. One side is face up for ripping and you flip it over for crosscutting.
I wondered about those too. The length of 2 3/4" would work but are they too tight in the pilot hole that the stepped drill bit makes? Too tight to pivot, I mean. I've not used them. A kit with stepped drill bit and 50 dowels is $35.
Thinking I might make dowels with a wood head. Drill top half 1 size over and use the washer between. Glue bottom half only. Probably way over thinking this simple plan. Looking forward to more ideas.
@@jodymoy1939 This has been on my mind since I posted my comment - way over-thinking it ! I was thinking a dowel with a wooden 'head', maybe a plywood disk glued on, counter sink the head in the upper board leaving the dowel free floating, pass through a washer or two then glued into the lower board. The only metal parts are the washers which are far away from the saw blade.
I made this jig and used it once. I'm 5'5"" and found it too heavy and unwieldy to handle alone. I cut off about 1 1/2 feet and now it is less weight, but still large enough to safely rip or crosscut full sheets. You gave to take your time and be selective when using furring strips. It may be easier to get straight pieces by ripping 2x4s.
Thanks for sharing your modification, Stephen! Absolutely correct about picking through the furring strips to get ones you can use. Menards had theirs strapped into bundles of 9 so that was easy for me.
Great project, love the way it folds up. I would put 3 wide shallow cut outs in the top of the cross pieces, between each long piece, to create channels for ripping the sheets. Or you could just turn the frame upsidedown for ripping!
Another way to solve the same problem is to use a 2' x 4' plywood sheet as a kind of hub. Attach six 2 to 3 foot arms of 2x2, four at the corners and two in the middle of the long edges. Rout slots in the plywood and use knob screws to secure the arms. The arms slide in and/or fold in over the center piece when not in use, and extend out in a sort of spider leg pattern in use.
I have been using a similar setup for about 20 years except I use a 2-1/2” screw. I drop a square of plywood in the center to keep it square. Mine doesn’t fold up and it is cumbersome to store. I actually make mine 3’x8’ with only two of the cross pieces 4’. It is also 12” oc. It still accommodates a 4x8 sheet. I am going to redo mine with the bolts, tee nuts and washers. I can still drop the plywood in it to square it up. Thanks for the idea.
Thanks, Mikr! The good thing about being 4' x 8' is I can clamp anywhere around the perimeter of a sheet of plywood. I like the idea of a smaller version, though.
Garry not Linda. Just my two cents. Because this is a piece that needs to flex and being built with construction lumber I would recommend drilling the clearance holes for the bolts at 17/64". That will allow easier assembly and flexibility.
This is the standard by which all videos are judged. If one were inclined to build, just follow along and make notes. Every step is detailed yet simple. Have my eye on the miter station and shall explore the channel to see if there is a video.
A simple enough design and a well thought out and useful jig filling a common need. In order to be foldable, you'd better be really accurate in the spacing of those bolt centres.
I think I'd use hex nuts with nylon inserts rather than the T nuts and Loctite. I don't trust Loctite to hold over the long term. I like Tioga's suggestion of sacrificial foam too; you could cut and glue blocks of it so you can still fold the grid up for storage without having to store a sheet of foam somewhere.
I built one very much like this two years ago. I use it often and the T nuts and red loctite have worked well for me. None of the intersections have ever come loose. My long runners are 7' long--so then when folded I can stand it up the corner of my 10' ceiling garage,
great idea :-) qq: I'm not good at math (so please don't judge) but would it still fold if i were to use 4 cross-pieces instead of 7? and is the spacing important for it to be foldable?
Hi Felix, this is the no-judgment zone! Yes, you can be pretty flexible in how you configure the cross pieces. There is no set distance apart, I just wanted mine every 16 inches but you could change that to every two feet or whatever suits you. You don't want too many cross pieces or it gets too crowded to fold as compactly. You could even have them spaced variable distances apart, as long as they are parallel to each other. Thanks for the comment!
I like the concept but sooner or later you're going to cut into one of those screws and wreck a blade. I would suggest using brass screws as they are softer and will not damage blades.
Hello Tim can The JigMan.I wonder could you make a different version of this?. What I mean is instead of width pieces on top could you flip it over and put 8ft lengths of say 4,5,6,7inches enough clearance for a Jigsaw Blade .by 2inches. The reason ask this is to cut sheets using a jigsaw lengthways cuts etc.
Can someone explain the location of the intersections? Is it 3/4" from each end and every 16" from one end? That gives me 15.25" between the first and last joints and 16" between the center joints. Will it fold with different joint distances like that? Thanks,
Did you get an answer? I was in the garage just now and discovered that the distance between long-board markings won't all be 16". Wondering if that matters.
Nice job. How stable is it sitting on only the two points on the saw horses? Seems like it may easily tip if you lean on the edge and may make placing a full sheet of plywood particularly difficult. Maybe a couple of screws to fasten the Jig to the saw horses would add a lot of stability.
Excellent! This just came up as a recommendation for me, looks like I'm going to wish I'd seen your channel way sooner! Question tho, it doesn't absolutely need to be 8 feet long does it? I'm not seeing an instance where 6 or 7 feet wouldn't still be ok. Just asking because of the folded-up length.
Good timing, someone else just today commented on one that is 72" long and 36" wide. It sounded pretty minimalistic, in a good way. That would definitely make it shorter than mine folded. Thanks, Russell!
I made mine 36" x 85" (85 because that's how the 16" spacing worked out). By pure happenstance, mine collapses to 9'3" and stands up nicely in my garage's 10' ceiling. I am pretty sure that 8' collapsible table would be about 10'6" collapsed. This size supports a 4x8 sheet with 6" overhang all the way 'round. I also used 2" screws to provide nearly 1/2" of countersunk insurance for potentially intruding saw blades. Otherwise, I used Tim's excellent instructions and would have never thought of this myself! Thank you, Tim!
How do you keep the saw blade out of those screws at the top? I wonder if there is some type of fastener other than metal which would do the same job? Is there a way to fix dowels?
Good question, R Wind. First, I make sure my cut line is between the 2x2's rather than on top of one. I know, it happens. You forget to move the workpiece over an inch or whatever. Second, I set the screws 1/4" below the surface. Third, I only have one or two saw teeth exposed below the workpiece so that if it were to happen, the saw blade wouldn't be cutting deep enough to hit a screw head. Yes, I had made this exact same jig years ago using Roto-hinges. Those are about $7 a pair so 14 pair of them would have been about $100. Machine screws and t-nuts were about $7 total for this version.
Ty for the reply. I had to look up roto hinges as I've never seen them or heard of them. I have heard of barrel hinges. I am quite sure that I would be the one to forget and leave the saw blade deep enough to cut through the screws. We only have a garage and space is very tight, even for putting a jig like this up on the wall. Wood is on the wall... Usually, we pull out regular fold-up saw horses and an old janky piece of 5/8 ply to make a work table if one is needed that large. Otherwise we have folding tables and one of the work mates and the table saw surface... A fold-up surface would be nice but this one is rather large. Maybe a little bit unwieldy to put up on our wall without some rearrangement. It requires some thought... Anyway, I think someone else mentioned using the foam board as a sacrificial surface and I've seen that a lot on CZcams lately. I wonder about gluing strips of foam board on to your wooden pieces as a top sacrificial level. I wonder about gluing strips of something plastic like dimensional PVC or a piece of PVC molding. If one is going that far, then why not just make it out of PVC instead of wood lol. As I thought of the struggle of putting this up on our wall, I wonder about making the joints rotating and if there's really enough benefit compared to having a set of long boards and a set of cross short boards, and just sliding them together at the time of the assembly each time they are used. And then thinking further, if one is going to wrap them up with bungees to store, then why not install bungees the way they do with quick assembly backpacking and camping tents nowadays. You more less shake them out and they almost assemble themselves via a network bungees and little plastic rods.
Thinking through the possibilities is how you arrive at making something that has to work for you. I'd be interested in hearing what you finally decide on.
I know there are nylon machine screws available, but I'm not sure if they are made in this size or length. If not perhaps you could find some nylon rod and thread it with a threading die? I think this jig is a really nice design except I would be worried about hitting a screw.
i was actually making my own version of a rip cut board jig but this one is seems interesting, is there any chance of knowing the dimensions in folded state
Thanks, C Eger! You are correct, they are 1/4". Be sure to check out the update to it in a later video before you start building. There are significant changes to the hardware.
@@timcanthejigman7932 Thanks, I watched the update. I should be fine using the original hardware because I always cut sheet goods on 2" foam board insulation. I was thinking that I probably don't even need to countersink anything for that reason. Honestly Tim, this was an incredible idea you came up with.
its a nice space saving design, but it would be a lot more practical to use wooden dowels as the pivot points, glued into the long sections, paste wax and washers will make them easy to turn, then any metal fixing such as a washer and screw could go underneath to join them. much kinder to your expensive saw blades
TimCan The Jig Man I would use nylon lock nuts. Either steel or stainless steel. Assuming a person does not flip your jig over and use the side with the nuts on it.
It does flip over. One side is for ripping and the other side is for cross-cutting. The first one I made years ago I used Roto-hinges but it was going to be prohibitively expensive to buy 28 sets of them.
Nice Idea, but 99% of those tring to make this will never find lumber that straight or that will stay that straight, at least not construction grade lumber.. Better off using Poplar or some hardwood or plywood strips for that matter.
@@timcanthejigman7932 .......Simply drill 1/2 inch deep every 3 inch or 2 inches and tight fit without glue, dowel sticking out 1/2 inch....like a plasma cutting table.......No need of 1 inch foam ....etc.......Should be enough to support any plywood sheet without the blade touching the foldable jig underneath.......!!! Thanks for sharing this foldable Jig idea ! P.S........The Dowels can be replaced if needed because they are tight fitted and not glued. Like a Peg Board.
Literally yelled out WHOA when you snapped that shut in the intro!!! Gotta make this!!!!
LOL, thanks RetroReviews! It's been pretty handy!
I said the same thing. Going to make one tomorrow.
One advantage I see in this design is that, if you are cutting in the 4' direction you can have the short bars up and not cut into them. If you are cutting the 8' direction, you can turn the jig over and, again, avoid cutting any of the jig. Brilliant. *SUBSCRIBED!*
Thank you, Robert! I try for elegant simplicity. Thanks for the sub!
Love the simplicity of how it folds down for storage in a much smaller package. Nice simple build, explained clearly and coherently -- no "ums" or "uhs" or stammering. Very nice.
Hey thanks, mykalimba! "Ums" and "uhs" are a pet peeve of mine too.
Mind. Officially. Blown.
I can't help but feel partially responsible.
Thank you soo much for sharing! Not only did I just learn something new for space saving but I got an answer to another project I'm working on!!! You the man!!!!
Thanks, Jose! I'm working on an update video for it today. I have a couple of changes to make. Glad to hear it helped you solve a problem!
Great idea, I was going to make similar with halfing joints. Would have to assemble and disassemble it. This is the solution. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback, Colin! Glad to hear this will work for you. Be sure to check the update video about it. I've changed the hardware.
Good Project. But even with the jig I’d throw a sheet of 1” foam on top and then the plywood. If you don’t , even being careful about blade depth sooner or later you’ll hit one of those steel fasteners w your saw. Ask me how I know...
Thanks! You can never be too careful.
Simple and completely practical. That definition of genious.
Thanks, Roy!
This video was recommended for me as well. It is a very simple design and I liked that you could explain and demonstrate in less than 5 minutes!
Awesome to hear, Robert! Thank you for commenting!
Thank you for this video. I needed to break down plywood and was figuring out the best portable surface using my saw horses when I saw this. I built this and have used it a few times. Much better than a Bora accordion thingy, which reviews say is rocky and not very stable for shear, like pushing a track saw. I used select pine 2x2s because I was thinking cheap fur strip 2x2 might warp making folding difficult.
Hey bob, thanks for the comments and sharing your experience. I did have to coax some of my furring strips into place but once assembled, any warping hasn't been an issue that would keep the jig from folding smoothly. I appreciate the thoughts!
Brilliant! I love the collapsing mechanic. I think I'll be sinking me screw-heads deeper, to avoid running over them with a saw-blade, but 2x2 is plenty deep enough for that. Thank you, sir!
Thanks, Austin! Remember that you can flip it one way to do cross cuts and flip it over for long cuts. You should always be able to avoid sawing into a 2x2.
@@timcanthejigman7932 I should always be able to avoid desert, too. But for some reason, sometimes I can't ...
LOL, winning argument!
@@timcanthejigman7932 This is a key comment as well, no cutting into the jig.
@@johnnyspropshop Yep, have you seen the update video to this?
Nifty idea. I think I'll make one for myself. I've usually cut sheets on ground on top of foam insulated sheet. But I've been thinking about doing saw horses to have temporary working area outside, so with this I think I can store all that stuff nicely in my limited storage area and get decent working table for good weather. Thanks for the idea.
Thanks, jothain. I had gotten tired of working on the ground and propping plywood up on 2x4s to make my cuts. This is much more convenient.
I have been trying to figure out how to make something that did not take up so much space and this is perfect.
That's awesome, Jk! I hope you enjoy making one.
That is stinking GENIUS! You should patent it and make and sell them.
I appreciate that, mach51! Nobody has asked me to make one for them, though.
Hi, Tim. I made a similar jig in the early 80's. Used "Folding Cutting Table" by Stephen Wysocki from "Fine Woodworking on Proven Shop Tips", (c) 1985, page 8. Stephen's jig uses only 24 ft of 2x2s. His design uses two 72" center strips and four 36" cross strips. The cross strips are mounted on 20-inch centers and 6 inches from each end.
That sounds like it would be a lot lighter. I don't recall that magazine or project but it's possible I saw it. I devoured anything woodworking related in my formative years. Do you remember what the hardware was for it?
@@timcanthejigman7932 The reference is a book published by Fine Woodworking Magazine. The shop tip probably appeared earlier in one of the magazine's issues. The hardware consists of 8 carriage bolts (1/4x2-1/2) with washers and nuts. Countersinks are made on both the center strips and cross pieces (16 places if I counted correctly) such that the bolts, washers, and nuts are recessed approximately 3/4-inch. In addition, Stephen used lag screws (2 for each center strip, 4 total) to attach the jig to the top of wooden sawhorses. The lag screws are centered 12-inches from each end of the long center strips. (Use an appropriate fastening method if not using wooden sawhorses.)
@@kamleo1685 Thanks for the reference, just pulled my copy from the bookshelf. Will revisit this, might be my answer to panel cutting.
@@johnnyspropshop You're welcome.
This is pure genius. I'm going to build one for myself. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Phillip, that's good to hear! If you haven't yet, you might want to check out the update video on it I did a couple of weeks ago. I made a couple of changes. Thanks!
Just made this and it is one of the best things I have ever made. Thanks for the great idea. Works like a charm.
Thanks, Paul! That's great to hear!
Great video, I made one of these several years ago inspired by one of the woodworking mags. I used dowel hinges which I purchased from Lee Valley and they work awesome. I really like your idea as those are so much easier to find the parts. Anyways this jig has saved me countless amount of times and seriously...I think the thing took maybe 45 minutes to put togetherr and as you mention it stores easliy. Just a quick tip for storage etc so you dont pinch your fingers, I used two toogle bolts at either end when folded up to lock it all together, a nut and bolt will work, but I find with a toggle bolt anchor you won't need a wrench or tighten or untighten, just your fingers. Andrew
Hey Andrew, thanks! The first one I made years ago, I used those Roto-hinges on also. We must have been inspired by the same mag but I couldn't remember which one it was. I used that one for a long time until the hinges started coming loose and the thing came apart. When I started planning to make another one and wanted to make a video of it, I knew I would get push back on the cost of Roto-hinges so that's why the hardware choice for this one. I like your idea for keeping it from pinching my fingers. Thanks!
I like this so much better than the jig I made years ago from 1x12 lumber. I cut slots halfway across the boards so they would fit together like an egg crate. Good in theory, but in practice the 1x12s warped enough to make fitting them together difficult at best. They also split off at the corners of the slots (probably from forcing together two pieces that didn't fit well.). I stopped using them a while back. Your design looks much better. I'll be building one of these soon. I like the folding aspect too--much faster to setup and take down than my egg crate monstrosity.
Thanks for sharing, Lex. This one has been pretty handy. Way better than propping up the plywood on random 2x4s.
Mannnnn you know your stuff! Thank you for sharing, what a great idea. Awesome, cheers my friend and have a great weekend ahead.
Thank you, meu amigo Agnos Jr.! Are you going to make one?
@@timcanthejigman7932 We'll see, there is a strong possibility.
A neighbor of mine can use one for sure, every hurricane season he cuts plywood on the floor when he need to protect his place. Cheers my friend!
Oh that's brilliant. Glad I stumbled across your channel - looks like a lot of useful videos. Thanks!
Thank you, Terry. Working on my next video even as we speak.
Words don't come easy to me. Magnífico. Thanks from México.
Wow, thank you! I appreciate you making the effort to comment.
Excellent! I'm going to make one for my shop. I like this so much more as a solution than cutting on foam sheets because unlike foam, this won't generate a bunch of microplastic foam dust whenyou cut into it. Every little thing we can do to protect the environment counts! I also have nylon hardware that I will try using just in case I hit it with the saw. I run a school shop, so you can't always be sure the kids will avoid that kind of thing
Thanks for the comment, Evan! Bravo on the environment and bravo to you for being a shop teacher! Glad to know the one you build will get a lot of use.
I'm not easily impressed but I do like your jig. Yes I'm impressed.
Thanks Simple Man, that's pretty strong praise.
I made something quite similar, but out of aluminum rectangular tubing which my dad bought at Boeing Surplus years ago. I made the cross pieces not just 48 inches but 54 inches. this allow me to clamp a saw guide onto the cross sections. I didn't think about making it foldable as you did. I think it's not too late to redo it that way.
Thanks for posting this video!
That sounds like a great solution, Ferndalien! Thanks for posting it.
Americas got talent !!!! great idea....
Thanks, p! I appreciate that.
Good design, Tim. Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks pt eddie, and you're welcome.
Just made this, easy to make and works well. Thanks!
Gad to hear it and thanks for the comment, Emrys!
Lowe's bundles 6 together but when you release the binding there often are surprises about the straightness of boards.
great job explaining, straight foreword and simple.
Thank you, Dave! That's what I was going for.
If you had some folding legs that were part of this it would be really handy. The tricky part would be to make the legs work on the long cut side as well as the short cut side.
Hm, let me apply some brain cells to it. I like the idea. Thanks!
Exactly what I was looking for
Glad it may help. Be sure to catch the update video for some changes.
Congratulations! Excellent project from all aspects!. Thank u 4 sharing!.
Thank you for the feedback, Stelios!
This is a brilliant idea for limited space / driveway workshops. To avoid the issue of the saw blade clashing with metal hard ware, how about using wooden dowels glued into the top and free floating in the bottom. Maybe a washer and split pin underneath to hold it all together.
Thanks for the suggestion, DesandSam! I tried to brainstorm ways to use dowels but nothing came to me that would solve having hardware on one side or the other. One side is face up for ripping and you flip it over for crosscutting.
Never used them but would “Miller dowels” from rockier work?
I wondered about those too. The length of 2 3/4" would work but are they too tight in the pilot hole that the stepped drill bit makes? Too tight to pivot, I mean. I've not used them. A kit with stepped drill bit and 50 dowels is $35.
Thinking I might make dowels with a wood head. Drill top half 1 size over and use the washer between. Glue bottom half only. Probably way over thinking this simple plan. Looking forward to more ideas.
@@jodymoy1939 This has been on my mind since I posted my comment - way over-thinking it ! I was thinking a dowel with a wooden 'head', maybe a plywood disk glued on, counter sink the head in the upper board leaving the dowel free floating, pass through a washer or two then glued into the lower board. The only metal parts are the washers which are far away from the saw blade.
I made this jig and used it once. I'm 5'5"" and found it too heavy and unwieldy to handle alone. I cut off about 1 1/2 feet and now it is less weight, but still large enough to safely rip or crosscut full sheets. You gave to take your time and be selective when using furring strips.
It may be easier to get straight pieces by ripping 2x4s.
Thanks for sharing your modification, Stephen! Absolutely correct about picking through the furring strips to get ones you can use. Menards had theirs strapped into bundles of 9 so that was easy for me.
Great project, love the way it folds up. I would put 3 wide shallow cut outs in the top of the cross pieces, between each long piece, to create channels for ripping the sheets. Or you could just turn the frame upsidedown for ripping!
Thanks, Anthony! Yep, one side is for cross cutting and the other side is for ripping. I appreciate the comment!
Another way to solve the same problem is to use a 2' x 4' plywood sheet as a kind of hub. Attach six 2 to 3 foot arms of 2x2, four at the corners and two in the middle of the long edges. Rout slots in the plywood and use knob screws to secure the arms. The arms slide in and/or fold in over the center piece when not in use, and extend out in a sort of spider leg pattern in use.
It's the brainstorming part of the process like this that I like. Great ideas, Doug!
Fantastic idea! Wish I had seen this sooner!
Thanks, Atek! It's never too late.
Nice idea for someone who would use it often. For me a couple 2x4 straddled between 2 horses and then a cross 2x4 near my cut. Good idea though .
Thanks!
Brilliant! Love it. Thank you.
Thank you too, Stephen!
Thank you...! I'm gonna build one now!
Awesome! You're going to like it.
Simple and brilliant!
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
I have been using a similar setup for about 20 years except I use a 2-1/2” screw. I drop a square of plywood in the center to keep it square. Mine doesn’t fold up and it is cumbersome to store. I actually make mine 3’x8’ with only two of the cross pieces 4’. It is also 12” oc. It still accommodates a 4x8 sheet. I am going to redo mine with the bolts, tee nuts and washers. I can still drop the plywood in it to square it up. Thanks for the idea.
Thanks, Mikr! The good thing about being 4' x 8' is I can clamp anywhere around the perimeter of a sheet of plywood. I like the idea of a smaller version, though.
Garry not Linda. Just my two cents. Because this is a piece that needs to flex and being built with construction lumber I would recommend drilling the clearance holes for the bolts at 17/64". That will allow easier assembly and flexibility.
I can get behind that suggestion. It's pretty tight with less-than-straight material. Thanks, Garry!
I might suggest plastic bolts to hold it together in case you accidentally cut where a screw would be.
I think that may have been mentioned once or twice already. Watch for the update video in the next few days.
This is the standard by which all videos are judged. If one were inclined to build, just follow along and make notes. Every step is detailed yet simple. Have my eye on the miter station and shall explore the channel to see if there is a video.
Thanks, Keith, very nice of you to say. Let me make finding the video of the miter saw station easy: czcams.com/video/qKDTwoGCc-w/video.html
A simple enough design and a well thought out and useful jig filling a common need. In order to be foldable, you'd better be really accurate in the spacing of those bolt centres.
Thanks, Harold. Absolutely on accurate spacing of the hardware!
Great Idea, Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Richard, and you're welcome.
great idea you had to think about it bravo (-- excellente idée il fallait y penser bravo--)
Oui, c'est vrai! Merci beaucoup!
I think I'd use hex nuts with nylon inserts rather than the T nuts and Loctite. I don't trust Loctite to hold over the long term. I like Tioga's suggestion of sacrificial foam too; you could cut and glue blocks of it so you can still fold the grid up for storage without having to store a sheet of foam somewhere.
I built one very much like this two years ago. I use it often and the T nuts and red loctite have worked well for me. None of the intersections have ever come loose. My long runners are 7' long--so then when folded I can stand it up the corner of my 10' ceiling garage,
Awesome! Nice jig
Thanks, Married Man Woodworking!
great idea :-) qq: I'm not good at math (so please don't judge) but would it still fold if i were to use 4 cross-pieces instead of 7? and is the spacing important for it to be foldable?
Hi Felix, this is the no-judgment zone! Yes, you can be pretty flexible in how you configure the cross pieces. There is no set distance apart, I just wanted mine every 16 inches but you could change that to every two feet or whatever suits you. You don't want too many cross pieces or it gets too crowded to fold as compactly. You could even have them spaced variable distances apart, as long as they are parallel to each other. Thanks for the comment!
I like the concept but sooner or later you're going to cut into one of those screws and wreck a blade. I would suggest using brass screws as they are softer and will not damage blades.
I think that may have been mentioned once or twice already. Watch for the update video in the next few days.
Hello Tim can The JigMan.I wonder could you make a different version of this?. What I mean is instead of width pieces on top could you flip it over and put 8ft lengths of say
4,5,6,7inches enough clearance for a Jigsaw Blade .by 2inches. The reason ask this is to cut sheets using a jigsaw lengthways cuts etc.
Hi Micheal. Sure, you can space the boards however you like as long as they are parallel.
Very good idea , one problem though....... when folded, it’s 3.6 meters long and that won’t fit in my van
Well, bummer. Can you get a longer van?
Yes that is brilliant
Thank you, David!
Can someone explain the location of the intersections? Is it 3/4" from each end and every 16" from one end? That gives me 15.25" between the first and last joints and 16" between the center joints. Will it fold with different joint distances like that? Thanks,
Did you get an answer? I was in the garage just now and discovered that the distance between long-board markings won't all be 16". Wondering if that matters.
Nice job. How stable is it sitting on only the two points on the saw horses? Seems like it may easily tip if you lean on the edge and may make placing a full sheet of plywood particularly difficult. Maybe a couple of screws to fasten the Jig to the saw horses would add a lot of stability.
Thanks! You are correct, it is tippy when mounting the plywood. In practice, I clamp it to the saw horses but I didn't for the video.
Excellent!
Thanks, DR E!
Excellent! This just came up as a recommendation for me, looks like I'm going to wish I'd seen your channel way sooner!
Question tho, it doesn't absolutely need to be 8 feet long does it? I'm not seeing an instance where 6 or 7 feet wouldn't still be ok. Just asking because of the folded-up length.
Good timing, someone else just today commented on one that is 72" long and 36" wide. It sounded pretty minimalistic, in a good way. That would definitely make it shorter than mine folded. Thanks, Russell!
I made mine 36" x 85" (85 because that's how the 16" spacing worked out). By pure happenstance, mine collapses to 9'3" and stands up nicely in my garage's 10' ceiling. I am pretty sure that 8' collapsible table would be about 10'6" collapsed. This size supports a 4x8 sheet with 6" overhang all the way 'round. I also used 2" screws to provide nearly 1/2" of countersunk insurance for potentially intruding saw blades. Otherwise, I used Tim's excellent instructions and would have never thought of this myself! Thank you, Tim!
Could this be done without a drill press
Of course.
Amazing
Thanks, Tom! Be sure to catch the update video on it.
@@timcanthejigman7932 Got it, I thinks I try maybe plastic bolts or plastic hinges at the stud intersections
Great idea. Why didn't I think of it?
Thank you ivanxyz!
Thank You ✅
My pleasure.
Genius
How do you keep the saw blade out of those screws at the top? I wonder if there is some type of fastener other than metal which would do the same job? Is there a way to fix dowels?
Good question, R Wind. First, I make sure my cut line is between the 2x2's rather than on top of one. I know, it happens. You forget to move the workpiece over an inch or whatever. Second, I set the screws 1/4" below the surface. Third, I only have one or two saw teeth exposed below the workpiece so that if it were to happen, the saw blade wouldn't be cutting deep enough to hit a screw head.
Yes, I had made this exact same jig years ago using Roto-hinges. Those are about $7 a pair so 14 pair of them would have been about $100. Machine screws and t-nuts were about $7 total for this version.
Ty for the reply. I had to look up roto hinges as I've never seen them or heard of them. I have heard of barrel hinges. I am quite sure that I would be the one to forget and leave the saw blade deep enough to cut through the screws. We only have a garage and space is very tight, even for putting a jig like this up on the wall. Wood is on the wall... Usually, we pull out regular fold-up saw horses and an old janky piece of 5/8 ply to make a work table if one is needed that large. Otherwise we have folding tables and one of the work mates and the table saw surface... A fold-up surface would be nice but this one is rather large. Maybe a little bit unwieldy to put up on our wall without some rearrangement. It requires some thought... Anyway, I think someone else mentioned using the foam board as a sacrificial surface and I've seen that a lot on CZcams lately. I wonder about gluing strips of foam board on to your wooden pieces as a top sacrificial level. I wonder about gluing strips of something plastic like dimensional PVC or a piece of PVC molding. If one is going that far, then why not just make it out of PVC instead of wood lol. As I thought of the struggle of putting this up on our wall, I wonder about making the joints rotating and if there's really enough benefit compared to having a set of long boards and a set of cross short boards, and just sliding them together at the time of the assembly each time they are used. And then thinking further, if one is going to wrap them up with bungees to store, then why not install bungees the way they do with quick assembly backpacking and camping tents nowadays. You more less shake them out and they almost assemble themselves via a network bungees and little plastic rods.
Thinking through the possibilities is how you arrive at making something that has to work for you. I'd be interested in hearing what you finally decide on.
I know there are nylon machine screws available, but I'm not sure if they are made in this size or length. If not perhaps you could find some nylon rod and thread it with a threading die? I think this jig is a really nice design except I would be worried about hitting a screw.
I like it!!!
Thanks Cheryl! It's pretty useful.
i was actually making my own version of a rip cut board jig but this one is seems interesting, is there any chance of knowing the dimensions in folded state
Hi Rana. The jig is just short of 12 feet long folded, 1 1/2 inches thick and about 8 inches wide.
Genius!!
Thanks, Charles!
This is genius. So those machine screws are 2-1/2" long. What diameter are they 1/4"?
Thanks, C Eger! You are correct, they are 1/4". Be sure to check out the update to it in a later video before you start building. There are significant changes to the hardware.
@@timcanthejigman7932 Thanks, I watched the update. I should be fine using the original hardware because I always cut sheet goods on 2" foam board insulation. I was thinking that I probably don't even need to countersink anything for that reason. Honestly Tim, this was an incredible idea you came up with.
Thanks again, enjoy your build!
its a nice space saving design, but it would be a lot more practical to use wooden dowels as the pivot points, glued into the long sections, paste wax and washers will make them easy to turn, then any metal fixing such as a washer and screw could go underneath to join them. much kinder to your expensive saw blades
Thanks! I like the idea but there would still be the metal hardware when you flip it over for crosscutting.
Tim
I need to make it shorter... must the space between intersections be uniform?
Hey izen izen. The space between the boards can vary but they have to be parallel.
Fold?...hinge? I don't see a hinge, why would it not bow? hmmm What is he up to?
Holy pine needles! That is cool!
LOL. Thanks Traveling Kaspers World!
Are those Stanley plastic saw horses 🤔
Yep.
I wanna see it fold bro
I encourage you to do that.
Brass bolts? Cost more but won't ruin a blade when hit
I've been thinking about using those and giving an update to this video. I have another idea.
Will be making one of these. What is the the length when fully folded? 👍 😎
Glad to hear it, Ged! It's 11'6" folded up.
Brass bolts. That way if the blade hits a bolt you just say oops and keep on cutting.
That's a good idea, Tim. What would you use in place of the t-nuts on the other side?
TimCan The Jig Man I would use nylon lock nuts. Either steel or stainless steel. Assuming a person does not flip your jig over and use the side with the nuts on it.
It does flip over. One side is for ripping and the other side is for cross-cutting. The first one I made years ago I used Roto-hinges but it was going to be prohibitively expensive to buy 28 sets of them.
Nice Idea, but 99% of those tring to make this will never find lumber that straight or that will stay that straight, at least not construction grade lumber.. Better off using Poplar or some hardwood or plywood strips for that matter.
is there any problem with the jig sliding on the saw horses when cutting?
It does on mine but there are unlimited places to use clamps to clamp it in place. I didn't for the video.
@@timcanthejigman7932 Thank you, I definitely need one, a whole sheet is a bear to handle.
maybe use dowels?
In what way?
TimCan The Jig Man in lieu of screws... just in case.
@@timcanthejigman7932 .......Simply drill 1/2 inch deep every 3 inch or 2 inches and tight fit without glue, dowel sticking out 1/2 inch....like a plasma cutting table.......No need of 1 inch foam ....etc.......Should be enough to support any plywood sheet without the blade touching the foldable jig underneath.......!!! Thanks for sharing this foldable Jig idea !
P.S........The Dowels can be replaced if needed because they are tight fitted and not glued. Like a Peg Board.
Thanks Navin! That's definitely another way of doing it to ensure a good standoff height.
@@timcanthejigman7932 .........Think of it like an old Indian fact...........Sleeping on a Bed of Nails !!!