Hey Neighbour, anything with a trashed piston/cylinder should have a full bottom end rebuild as it's impossible to fully wash the metal powder out of the crankcase, bearings, seals etc.. Useful video Matthew, keep up the good work..
I disagree on this one, I've done tons of saws with scored top ends and not split the case to replace bearings. While one can stand to reason its a good idea, I don't think it's always necessary. Most of the time any metal that comes off the piston transfers onto the cylinder, I rarely ever see metal in the bottom of the case let alone in the bearings. When you have the crank seals off you can access the entire bearing, and with the pressure in the can of cleaner along with the air compressor you can get the bearing fully cleaned IMO. My bearings just get stuff from the ultrasonic in them when my waters not fresh, that's why I flush them. If I were to spilt every single case and replace the bearings I would lose money on basically every saw with a crankcase. Yes it's ideal to split the case but I've never had issues with metal or other particles cause damage so long as I flush the bearings really well.
I felt my 026 bearings being off, making noise when I pulled it over. Flywheel was making a mark in the magnesium case... I immediately stripped it down and split the case and pounded the bearings out. Bad bearings mean bad seals and that means air leak. Putting the bearings back in wasn't hard. Set the oven to 250° Freedom Units. They went in like nothing. Crank followed suit.
I won't typically re use bearings, just never been something I like to do, but ya heat is your friend when installing them. I usually use the freezer as well, I'll freeze my bearings and heat my case and the bearings almost always go right In Without a press or pounding
Hey Neighbour, anything with a trashed piston/cylinder should have a full bottom end rebuild as it's impossible to fully wash the metal powder out of the crankcase, bearings, seals etc.. Useful video Matthew, keep up the good work..
I disagree on this one, I've done tons of saws with scored top ends and not split the case to replace bearings. While one can stand to reason its a good idea, I don't think it's always necessary. Most of the time any metal that comes off the piston transfers onto the cylinder, I rarely ever see metal in the bottom of the case let alone in the bearings. When you have the crank seals off you can access the entire bearing, and with the pressure in the can of cleaner along with the air compressor you can get the bearing fully cleaned IMO. My bearings just get stuff from the ultrasonic in them when my waters not fresh, that's why I flush them. If I were to spilt every single case and replace the bearings I would lose money on basically every saw with a crankcase. Yes it's ideal to split the case but I've never had issues with metal or other particles cause damage so long as I flush the bearings really well.
@@chainsawredeemer85 Thanks for your reply Matthew, much appreciated.. Simon..
always neighbor love ya! TeeSpring is doin me hella dirty so sorry haven't gotten your shirt yet but I will you have my word
@@chainsawredeemer85 Totally trust your word Neighbour...Cheers to you and Grumpy Unc...
I felt my 026 bearings being off, making noise when I pulled it over. Flywheel was making a mark in the magnesium case... I immediately stripped it down and split the case and pounded the bearings out. Bad bearings mean bad seals and that means air leak.
Putting the bearings back in wasn't hard. Set the oven to 250° Freedom Units. They went in like nothing. Crank followed suit.
I won't typically re use bearings, just never been something I like to do, but ya heat is your friend when installing them. I usually use the freezer as well, I'll freeze my bearings and heat my case and the bearings almost always go right In Without a press or pounding
Very good class thanks 8
Of course your welcome!
Appreciate such a great video brother.
My pleasure
024 good little saws!
Yep one of my favs
Good info, thats gonna be a nice saw!!
I hope so!