Comparing Crushed Rock (& Gravel) Sizes and How They're Used
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- What is the right rock size for your project? In this video, we look at common crushed rock sizes, from our smallest gravel size (¼" minus) to our largest landscape rock size (six-man landscape rock a.k.a. rockery rock). Then we go through the basics of how these gravel and landscape rock products are used.
The article version of this video gives some background about how product size actually refers to gradation. For example, other companies sell a ¾" minus instead of a 5/8" minus or an 1½" clean instead of an 1¼" clean. Because sizing is based on gradation and the demands of the local industry, these sizes will actually look pretty similar. Check out our article, "Choosing the Right Rock: Comparing Crushed Rock Sizes and Types," for a better explanation: www.wa-rock.com/choosing-the-...
You can also read more about gradation in our article, "The Science of Creating Rock Recipes: How We Crush Rock": www.wa-rock.com/the-science-o... In the future, we hope to make a video just about gradation.
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:22 Part 1: Types & Sizes
0:55 Smaller Rock Sizes
1:19 Large Rock Sizes
1:37 Part 2: Applications (Minus v. Clean)
2:09 Rock for Roads and Driveways
2:42 Clean Rock Applications
2:59 1/4" Minus
3:10 Large Landscape Rock
3:30 Thank You
Thanks to our model, Daniel, for his amazing poses. Editing and most videography by Eve Hart. Quarry blast (00:14) and inset "Crushed v. Minus" (00:38) videos by Joel Carver of CSI Drone Solutions. Most photography by Eve Hart or Washington Rock team members. Gabion (03:14) and rockery photos (03:15) from Adobe Stock.
Thank you to our dispatcher Rick for helping us answer questions by CZcams commenters.
We apologize to our viewers for the occasional ads at the beginning of the video. CZcams has decided to monetize this video without our input. We do not receive any revenue from the ads. We appreciate you stopping by our channel and hope you find our content helpful regardless of the annoying ads.
This was so informative! Been looking for a video that really explains it in the simplest terms.
So glad this was helpful! Please let us know if you have any questions.
My boss made me watch this video. I did not think that I could learn so much in 3 minutes. GREAT JOB! Thank you.
Well we sure like your boss! Are you in the construction industry? We're so glad it was a helpful video.
Thank you ! its so difficult to find correct , concise , and size comparative information .
You're welcome! We're glad you found the information useful.
Beautifully done. Love the toys and quarters.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
This is a great resource for home owners and businesses. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Thanks for stopping by. Let us know if you have any questions or suggestions.
Great video as it helped me understand what stone I needed for a walking pathway
Thanks for watching!
Very informative, You guys rock!!!
You rock for thinking we rock!
This is a really good video good information I wish I would have found this before I did my driveway
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video for beginners and experience individuals as well
Thank you!
Excellent information. Great video. Thank you for sharing 🏆
Thanks for stopping by!
I have a looong driveway that needs to be rocked, so this was very helpful to me. Thank you.
Glad to hear it. Hope your driveway turns out great!
We recently excavated a new driveway from dirt...the 2-4" spalls contained minus as well, resulting in a nice and level grade finish after the rocks locked together & now the driveway is more durable than asphalt!
Awesome to hear!
Extremely helpful video, thank you! I always panic when I call to order some gravel because I never know what I want
Glad you found it useful! It can be intimidating to order rock products, so we hope the info makes you a little less stressed.
this was very helpful! Thanks.
Glad to hear it!
Very helpful. I went with 3/4 for my backyard.
So glad it helped! We would love to know how it turns out longterm.
This was such a useful video!
We're glad it was helpful!
Just had a parking pad laid out at my house. The contractor used 1” minus. It was soft at first which concerned me but after it’s been rained on and we’ve driven on it a few times it’s pretty sturdy now.
Driveway gravel does tend to set up with a little time, use, and moisture. So glad it worked out for you!
Excellent illustration.
Thank you!
Thank you, highly informative.
Glad we could help!
Very good information. Thank you
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Wow great information on this video!!!
Thank you!
WOW! That was super helpful. Very nice presentation of the information. If you were local to me, you'd have earned my business. Keep up the good work and good luck to your company.
Thanks for the awesome feedback!
Great explanation thanks
You're welcome!
Great video, you totally rock!⚡️
Thank you!
Great video. You Rock!
Thanks so much!
Thanks! Very helpful.
Glad to hear it!
Very informative 👏 thank you
Glad you found it useful!
great content. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Do you have any reference documents on when to use a clear gravel product in different layers of a paver or driveway base?
None come to mind. We'll be on the lookout for one.
Great tutorial
Glad you think so!
Hello, you showed what would be good for rehabbing existing gravel driveways. What would be good for installing a new one? Main use is storage space for vehicles so not much driving traffic, but a muddy base. Would you recommend 1 1/4” clean under 5/8” minus?
You could start with a 2" clean product, then top with 5/8" minus or 1-1/4" minus. The clean will help bind the mud, and the minus on top will make for better compaction. Our advice would be to check in your area for a gravel driveway contractor who can make more specific recommendations about how much material you need and what will work best in your area.
You Rock, sorry I could not help my self. Very helpful info.
We don't take your appreciation for granite :)
If I use a geo cell product to reinforce my driveway, what should be used for the base under that?
Sorry for the late reply. 1-¼" minus or 1-¼" clean are good options depending on what the bare ground looks like. You'll want to use a clean product for ground that is soft or muddy. The muddier it is, the larger the rock you'll want to use.
I like the clean and manicured look of the 1/4 inch minus. I am thinking about installing a driveway and i want to use gravel. But the bigger rocks don't look as nice after they are layed and they hurt my feet when i walk on them outdoors to wash my car. Can you use 1/4 inch minus for driveways?
Never heard of using 1/4" Minus for driveways. It's usually a trail/walkway/under-paver material because it is so dense due to the percentage of fines (small particles). You could probably use it, but keep in mind that it costs more than 5/8" Minus, which is the standard smallest driveway size. You will likely also need to start with a larger gravel size for the base of your driveway. Otherwise you risk creating a mud pit.
I'm pouring a small concrete slab 6'x4' to extend my fire pit area. Which rock do I use? Leaning toward the 3/4 clean. My soil is sandy clay, I live in Southern California. Also, must I tie in the new pour with the existing slab? Finally, I'm pouring on a slight slope, do I simply pack earth on the exposed side? Thanks!
You probably want to go with 5/8" minus (approximately 3/4" minus in other areas). It would give you a chance to put a vapor barrier underneath the slab to keep the slab from wicking up moisture.
As to your questions about tying it in and pouring on a slope, your best bet is to check with an expert in concrete.
Thank you!
No problem!
Is 3/4 minus available? I heard it mentioned in a video about how to install/create al paver brick walkway.
We sell 5/8" minus because it's the state department of transportation spec. But a lot of people will use it interchangeably with 3/4" minus.
Thankyou very useful video👍🌷
Glad it could help! Thanks for watching.
What do suggest for sloped driveways? It’s kind of a steep incline
It depends on what your driveway composition currently is. 2" clean crushed rock and 1-¼" minus are good bets. Generally you want to use a larger crushed clean product in soft areas and layer up from there with smaller products that have fines. Check out our video, starting at about 1:58: czcams.com/video/QyRSBS9seZg/video.html
Hi, I'm looking to add gravel around my fire pit area. What do you recommend using that sturdy enough for someone to sit on (with furniture) and comfortable to walk on (with shoes)?
It might be tough to find something that compacts enough to hold furniture and is also comfortable to walk on (barefoot). You could solve the issue by starting with a 5/8" minus and compacting it. Then you could fill the area with a few inches of pea gravel. Be sure to slightly slope the project area so that water can drain away from it. Also make sure that the edges of the area are contained, either via excavation or edging, so that the round rock doesn't migrate.
The legs of the furniture will sit on the compacted surface below the pea gravel. You could scoop pea gravel out where the furniture legs will go, then move the furniture in place. Or you could set the furniture prior to adding the pea gravel and backfill around it.
Other sources suggest placing a concrete slab, piece of wood, or pavers in the area where the furniture will be, then backfilling with gravel to hide the supports. Keep in mind that gravel might cause some wear and tear to your furniture.
If you aren't concerned about walking on the project area barefoot, you could simple use a compacted 5/8" Minus, 1/4" Minus, or Crusher Dust (decomposed granite is similar).
Thank for video. What size and type will be good for parking?
It depends on the condition of the area you'll be parking in and what kinds of vehicles will use the area. For a soft or muddy area, you could use 1-¼" clean. For an area that needs more compaction, you could use 5/8" minus or 1-¼" minus. The heavier the vehicles, the larger the product you'll want to use. You can actually layer several products on top of each other, starting with the largest product on bottom. For example, you could start with 1-¼" clean and top it with 5/8" minus. Areas with heavier vehicles and more traffic are going to use much larger rock for the base and several layers of material. Check out our video, starting around 1:58: czcams.com/video/QyRSBS9seZg/video.html
Awesome thanks
You bet!
I am planning to put gravel in my backyard for low maintenance. I have two big trees that shed leaves every fall, what size gravel would you recommend to make cleaning up leaves easier?
A couple of questions: Do you typically remove leaves with a rake or leaf blower? What function will the gravel serve?
There are so many different gravel options that it's hard to say without knowing more. For example, you could use pea gravel, a smaller drain rock, a small river rock, large river rocks, minus gravel, clean gravel, quarry spalls, etc. It really depends on your style preference and whether the gravel needs to compact or not.
Could the 1/4 minus be used as driveway grit for an icy hill? Then double as pothole filler on a gravel driveway?
Yes, 1/4" minus could be used as a driveway grit, and it can also be used as a pothole fill.
Which is the best gravel to use for Fibreglass Pool backfill?
Thank you
You probably want to use a building sand. However, the pool manufacturer may offer guidance in their installation instructions.
I am building a tool shed and the first step is a concrete slab. From what I understood, I should use 5/8" minus or 1 1/4" minus as a base under the slab correct?
Yes, you will want to use a compacted crushed minus product as the base for the concrete. 5/8" minus is a good starting point unless you have issues with drainage. There are many blogs and videos that you can find via an Internet search. We always recommend consulting with a local landscape supply yard or concrete company if you're ever in doubt about the best product to use since it can vary by region. Local companies will also be familiar with the general ground composition in the area, i.e., clay/silt/sand content, rockiness, etc.
Which size would be best for a sitting and walking area? We want to have a firepit and some garden furniture around it. Would a smaller size be more suitable? What would feel most comfortable and be the most practical? Many thanks
It depends on the aesthetic you're going for. Overall, you'll probably want to go with something 3/4" or smaller.
If you're going for a loose decorative fill, you could use a round rock or 3/4" clean. Some people will use pea gravel or drain rock. It's not as easy to walk in, but you could walk on it with bare feet. Here's a blog post by The Handyman's Daughter about making a pea gravel patio: www.thehandymansdaughter.com/pea-gravel-patio/
If you wanted to use crushed rock but wanted a cleaner look, you could use a 1/2"-3/4" clean. You could use a 3/4" clean crushed drain rock like we used in this blog post: www.wa-rock.com/renewing-the-gravel-paths-of-a-french-country-home/. It's a more common product and will have rounded edges, so it will be more comfortable to walk on. It still might feel kind of like walking on Legos in bare feet but less so than a quarried crushed rock.
If you want a smooth surface, you could use 5/8" minus or 1/4" minus and heavily compact it. We just published a blog post about wheelchair-accessible gravel surfaces, and it has a diagram for creating a smooth surface: www.wa-rock.com/ask-the-rock-how-do-i-make-a-gravel-surface-wheelchair-accessible/
Thank you for the video. I'm doing a garden path but it has to pack well bc a wheelchair will roll on it. Would you recommend 1/4" minus? Should there be a base layer of larger clean rock for drainage? Any need for landscape fabric? Many thanks!
1/4" minus is a good choice for wheelchair accessibility. You'll have to continually maintain it and keep it compacted since nothing will be as wheelchair friendly as concrete or asphalt. But 1/4" minus is about as close as you get with gravel. Since it's so dense, you'll likely have runoff, which is why consistent maintenance is key.
You could definitely install a base layer for drainage, such as a permeable ballast (a clean rock product used in parking lots and roadway shoulders) or a permeable base course (basically a coarser version of an 1-1/4" minus).
Weeds can still grow through gravel, so landscape fabric isn't a bad idea. Just keep in mind that weeds can grow on top of gravel as well, especially over time as soil and seeds are dropped on it by birds, trees, etc.
@@WARockQuarries Thanks for the info. I have to get this right so the wheelchair bound user can get her exercise and use her garden. Any advice from the community will go a long way. Does anyone know what to use for edging that won’t break the bank and won’t break? How many inches of gravel would you use and is landscape fabric needed? Would you start w road base or use the 1/4 inch minus throughout? Is there a difference between crushed stone and decomposed granite? Thanks again
@@WARockQuarries Yes I’ll be installing plants there tomorrow and plan to mock up a path with rope. I’ll get some good pics. Great timing on the article. Let me know if I can help. I’m struggling w what to use for edging in particular. And some cherry tree roots near the surface. Wondering if I should just be pricing out concrete instead of packed gravel, but I’d like to try to make it work. Limbhacks@gmail or Instagram. Thank you
Concrete will definitely be more expensive, but based on what we've learned about ADA requirements, concrete and asphalt are going to be the most ADA-friendly. The trail mix gravel (1/4" minus) will pack down really hard, but you will have to maintain it to keep it wheelchair-accessible because you'll experience water runoff, pitting, and gravel migration, just like with any gravel pathway. What you choose ultimately depends on your budget and the aesthetic you're going for.
a landscaping company i worked for always used 3/4 clear followed up by screeded 1/4 under the pavers. did we do it wrong? In many years we never fixed a job so I guess it worked out well. But I always see those WAVY driveways and think wow where did they go wrong.. probably limestone screening base eh?
The landscaping company probably used 3/4" clean for drainage, but it's interesting that they used 1/4" (minus?) under the pavers since you would think that the minus in the 1/4" would fall into the gaps in the rock and settle over time. There are many ways to do the same thing, so maybe that turned out to be a solid plan for them. It's hard to say because we're not landscaping professionals.
A side note: Unilock (a paver manufacturer) has an article claiming that the way to go with a paver bedding layer is washed concrete sand (ASTM C33 coarse sand) since it holds pavers in place while providing drainage and eliminating some of the issues you might get by using minus rock, like settling or salt deposits from excess moisture. With minus rock, you end up having runoff if you leave gaps in between pavers, and you need somewhere for the runoff to go.
There are a lot of different reasons why concrete driveways end up with a wavy texture-problems with the roller, concrete mix, screed, temperature, compaction, etc.
I would love a video about when to use road bed fabric together with gravel..
That would be an interesting topic. We've had a couple people ask about using landscaping fabric under gravel. We'll put it on our to-do list.
@@WARockQuarries Well the problem is Im getting conflicting info on when to use it and not. And I'm not talking about the light weight HomeDepot landscape fabric. I'm talking about the 200lb woven vs non woven poly stuff construction companies use... Im told 3"+ will tear it but if I have really muddy soft clay base don't I need to start with the big stuff? Im afraid if I don't use the fabric then even the 3-4" will just sink into the mud eventually... But I'm being told to use the fabric and then 6-8" of 1.5 minus over that and then Im good! Then come back with 3/4 minus for a capper coat... I'm afraid it won't drain as good with the 1.5" minus on top of the fabric...
Help!!!!
Hm, that's a tough one because we don't work with fabric a lot. In preparation for an article about putting rock in muddy horse pastures, we just read an article where the author claimed that you must use a commercial geotextile to keep the rock from sinking and needing to be replaced. This was in reference to areas that get a lot of rain and don't really have a hardpan (i.e., there's not much of a rocky layer under the soil). Here's the article: bit.ly/3aB0rMe
We'll ask around and see if we can get some more clarity on the subject.
Thank you so much for these videos! What type of combination would you recommend for a driveway on compacted sand?
It is an existing driveway that has been over taken by grass. So I will churning it up to remove the grass and then laying more material on top.
Thank you!
Can you tell us a little more about the project? For example, will you be regrading the driveway? What kind of gravel is in the current driveway mix?
@@WARockQuarries
Thank you for getting back to me.
Yes the current mix is healthy 3inch base rock with a thin coat of 57 rock.
I was trying to regrade the driveway without having to bring in extra top layer but the top layer is way to thin. It seems that they never put enough on it to begin with.
But yes I will be regrading it once I bring in more top layer.
Our dispatcher's recommendation is 1-1/4" Minus. One of the best things you can do to assess material needs is to get contractor bids and ask them to itemize materials and quantities. Then you can use the bids to determine whether to work through the contractor or purchase the materials yourself. Look specifically for excavation/paving contractors. They will most likely buy product in bulk from local sand and gravel suppliers rather than landscape yards with small bunkers.
@@WARockQuarries
Thank you! This is great information.
I was also thinking of 1/4 minus and then maybe a coat of 57 to make it look nicer.
No problem! There are so many ways you could do it.
I already have a compacted base with minus and just want to do a refresh. I also have some puddles. Should I go with the clean to raise it and get some drainage or do another layer of minus?
Adding clean gravel to the puddled areas would be kind of like adding rocks to a bowl of water. It might look like the issue is gone, but it's still there.
When you create a surface with compacted minus gravel, the surface is like pavement. There is nowhere for the water to go except off the sides of the gravel area. If you have puddles, you may have spots on the surface that are lower than the rest of the surface, so the water has no way to drain off the surface. Another issue may be that the distribution of gravel in those areas is different from the rest of your base.
You could try breaking up the gravel around the puddles and raking the gravel into a more homogenous mix. Level out the surface, adding more minus gravel as needed. Firmly compact the entire area.
For larger potholes, you may need to do a bit more work. For areas like driveways, professionals sometimes regrade the entire surface.
Our blog article about wheelchair-accessible surfaces has surfacing models that show how to create a compacted surface that will drain: www.wa-rock.com/ask-the-rock-how-do-i-make-a-gravel-surface-wheelchair-accessible/
@@WARockQuarries thank you so much!
No problem!
I'm going to be doing a gravel base for a hot tub. Want drainage but also a firm base. Would you recommend the 3/4" clean? Thanks so much.
You could do that, or you could even do a 5/8" minus (similar to 3/4" minus) depending on the composition of the ground underneath the gravel.
@@WARockQuarries What are the soil conditions that would warrant 5/8" minus?
Our expert says that 5/8" minus is your best bet for a sturdy platform. You would use 3/4" clean if you're building on soft or muddy ground in order to stabilize it. If you're concerned about drainage, one idea would be to use a permeable aggregate top course, which is basically a 5/8" minus with coarser fines. This kind of material is used under synthetic turf fields to provide a solid foundation while promoting drainage.
Based on some articles we quickly perused, it sounds like you will want to excavate the area where your hot tub sits about 6 inches. Then you can backfill it with about 4 inches of a construction-grade gravel, like 5/8" minus, and top it with 2 inches of a cleaner, more attractive-looking material like pea gravel or clean crushed rock (e.g., 3/4" clean). You could even top with pavers instead if you get that bottom layer really smooth and compacted. Just make sure that the soil in the area you're excavating will drain. Otherwise you'll end up with a pool in the hole underneath your hot tub.
I work at a small stone quarry and people ask what is best for driveway I tell them crusher run but no every one else tells them #57s or 3/4 " I tell them no but nope they use 57s and then complain about them moving all over, I tell them 57s are like marbles ,good for drainage bad for driveway especially in the mountains where I live and most drives are on 10 to 20 degree slopes.
Most people don't know much about rock, sand, and soil products. Hopefully our content can help bridge the gap!
Please help! What size rocks for shed base and drainage?
A lot of blogs and videos suggest 3/4" Clean (#57) if you're building on top of a timber frame. Since it has no fines, 3/4" Clean doubles up as a drain rock as long as your soil is well draining. Keep in mind that in the examples we found online that used 3/4" Clean, the timber frame was backfilled with soil, covered with landscape fabric, and topped with 3/4" Clean. This method would keep the gravel in place and prevent it from moving, which clean products are prone to do.
What is the best gravel for large driveway or possibly the whole front of my home?
Here's a response we gave to another viewer with a muddy yard:
"You could start with a 2" clean product, then top with 5/8" minus or 1-1/4" minus. The clean will help bind the mud, and the minus on top will make for better compaction. Our advice would be to check in your area for a gravel driveway contractor who can make more specific recommendations about how much material you need and what will work best in your area."
If you have firmer ground to work with, you might start with 1-1/4" minus or 5/8" minus instead.
What would you suggest for a gravel patio and dog run?
For the patio, it depends on the look you're going for and the composition of your subgrade (soil). You could use pea gravel if you contain it with a border and place a permeable landscape fabric underneath it. 5/8" Minus is a popular choice. 1/4" Minus is also nice because the fines make it smoother to walk on and can pack down so hard that it can be wheelchair accessible. If you use a minus crushed rock, you want to make sure the project area is slightly crowned so that water runs off the edges and doesn't puddle. You may also need to start with a larger base course like 1-1/4" Minus for extra strength.
For the dog run, it also depends on your material preference. Finely crushed rock, like 5/8" Minus or 1/4" Minus are common choices. If you click through to the last picture, you can see where a community local to us used 5/8" minus for their dog park: www.wa-rock.com/project/tehaleh-community-projects/
What’s recommended for drainage in a pool infill?
One source suggests mason sand, which is a fine sand used in mortar mixes. We sell a product called Ultrafine Pool Sand, which is a silty sand that holds its shape when wet. Mason sand will drain better however.
Hi! I would like to have my bluestone driveway redone and I have several questions I'm hoping you can answer first. Is "crusher run" the same thing as recycled concrete aggregate (RCA)? Also, what is the typical "base" for most bluestone driveways? Clean bluestone gravel is never placed on dirt alone (without a base), right? Any comments would be much appreciated!
Crusher run is basically 5/8" minus gravel (3/4" minus in other regions). Recycled concrete aggregate is crushed up concrete. For example, we sell a 1-1/4" minus recycled concrete that performs the same function as 1-1/4" minus made from mined materials. Most driveways use 5/8" minus or 1-1/4" minus.
Sometimes you might start with a larger clean crushed gravel as a base layer for the driveway. It can help stabilize muddy areas.
Other products are layered on top of the crushed clean product to create the driving surface. For example, our 1-1/4" minus is called Crushed Surfacing Base Course (CSBC) and our 5/8" minus is called Crushed Surfacing Top Course (CSTC). These two products are often used together with the base course on the bottom and top course on the top.
We would suggest Googling articles about building a gravel driveway. Everyone has their preferred method, and there are "easy" ways to create a driveway and there are longer-lasting methods that take more time, money, and effort.
@@WARockQuarries Thank you for such a thorough response. I talked with one contractor and he said that he would simply dump about 5 inches of clean bluestone gravel on the hard dirt driveway. The driveway does have Belgian blocks (with footing and joints) on the perimeter. He did not mention RCA, "crusher run" or any other base. Is that a viable way of doing it?
It's hard to say without knowing more about your specific situation. Perhaps you could ask 2 other contractors for their opinions (you know what they say about getting three quotes).
Typically a minus product is used on the surface because it compacts and stays in place better while clean rock has a tendency to shift. Contractors will create a slight crown in the middle so water can roll off the sides since compacted gravel acts like concrete.
Perhaps your contractor chose clean gravel for drainage since the blocks might trap water on the edges of the driveway. The blocks might also prevent gravel from rolling off the sides of the road. This is just speculation however.
@@WARockQuarries Thank you! 🙏 Your response is much appreciated.
Glad we could help!
Can anyone please tell me if i did my driveway with the 2 or 3 inch minus, will it be rough on car tires ?
Ty
You probably want to stick with 1-1/4" minus (1-1/2" at other places). Rock that large is used more often as a base for smaller rock.
@@WARockQuarries ty !
@@rl4889 you're welcome! Pro tip: contact a local supply yard and ask them what their most popular product for driveways is. That's a pretty foolproof way for finding the best fit for your area.
Is there a product that exists that can be applied to rock that would help it stick to itself? My idea is to apply such a product and compact it in an effort to keep the rocks in place.
There are many different brands of gravel resin binders and pathway stabilizers you can apply, which range in price from relatively affordable to very expensive. We have never tried any of these out ourselves, so we don't feel comfortable making a recommendation. You'll want to consider the long-term outcomes of using a binder, both in terms of future projects and environmental impacts. Try searching "Pour On Gravel Binder" on CZcams. There are a few how-to videos that pop up.
Thank you!
Would 3/4" clean work for a patio base? Or is it too uncomfortable bare foot?
That could work. If you're worried about discomfort, you could request a scoop of material. Spread it out on the ground (or on a cookie sheet to keep it contained in a smaller area) and try walking on it. Foot comfort depends on materials available in your area. Some materials will have rounded or blunted edges while others will be more jagged.
From experience, this commenter would say that walking on our ¾" clean (which is a fractured basalt) is going to feel like walking on Legos unless it's compacted into a smooth, flat surface. Some suppliers will sell gravel made from what's essentially crushed river rock or drain rock, which will have more rounded edges.
@@WARockQuarries Thanks so much
You're welcome! Glad we could help.
I have a long driveway and 1 specific area keeps dipping and the rocks miraculously disappear lol we have filled it with RCA many times and it still disappears- and now we have these huge craters in the driveway. Would you recommend clean to fill the road, and then just minus on top? Thanks in advance !!
It sounds like an issue of grading rather than materials. You would probably benefit from having your driveway regraded. This problem spot will likely continue to reappear otherwise.
Potholes are basically craters made up of compacted material. Adding more material to them is like pouring gravel into a bowl, i.e., the crater is still there even though the problem appears to be gone. What you will need to do is break up the area around the potholes with heavy machinery or something like a pickaxe, then redistribute the material.
@@WARockQuarries thank you so much for your input!!! Silly question who do I call (besides Ghostbusters LOL)? Landscaper? Masonry? 🙏🏼🙏🏼
You could try Googling "grading services near me." Google will pop up a list of contractors under the heading "Businesses" and show below each entry whether the business mentions grading on their website. You're looking for a contractor like a small excavation company or landscaper. In our area, businesses who provide grading services have names like Joe's Excavating and Construction, Rob's Excavation, Alpine Landworks, ABC Dirtworks, Mountain Construction, etc.
You could also call a local concrete supplier or landscape supply yard and ask for recommendations.
@@WARockQuarries perfect I was not googling the right thing for sure LOL thank you!!!
Glad we could help!
How small do these rock fragments have to be before they are called "fines"? What is the difference between these "fines" and sand?
Here's a response from our quality control guru, Ryan: "In this case, fines would typically be referred to as Minus #200 US Standard Mesh or (smaller than 200 holes per inch). Sand is typically smaller than 3/8” or #4 (4 holes per inch). This can include fines. Above the #4 is typically considered coarse aggregate."
@@WARockQuarries So "fines" include sand and dust size particles? So what is the difference between sand and fines? Their mineral/chemical content, or the surface abrasion of these particles
Yes, "fines" is a general term that includes materials that pass a certain sieve size.
With gravel that is made from crushing up rock, the rock fines are made up of only crushed rock. Sand can be made up of many different kinds of materials depending on where it's sourced from. The general idea is that naturally occurring sand is created when larger rocks, minerals, or other materials are naturally broken down over time, creating smaller particles. Crushed rock fines tend to be angular and compact very well; sand tends to be subangular or subround, making it a better material for drainage.
The fines in sand can include silt, clay, fine grains of rock, fine grains of minerals, etc. At our King Creek Pit facility, we actually send sand through a wash plant to remove some of the fines. This helps it to bond better with concrete and prevents the sand from balling up when golf courses spread it on their greens.
Interesting note: there is such a thing as "manufactured sand," which is made from crushing rocks or minerals.
Does this help answer your question?
@@WARockQuarries Yes it did, thank you!
What works best for making concrete?
We supply concrete manufacturers with rock and sand but don't make it ourselves. So concrete isn't really our expertise.
You could check out this video by This Old House and see if it helps: czcams.com/video/sbpHsedLxkM/video.html
For driveway You mentioned putting clean rock over mud then minus over that. Would you recommend doing minus rock first to have a sturdy base then doing a layer of clean rock and finally another layer of minus on top?
It depends on what the surface looks like. Larger rock, like on construction sites and highways, is used as a base layer because of the weight of vehicles and amount of traffic. You could start with a smaller rock size, like 2" minus or 1¼" minus, if the ground is very firm.
It's always better to overengineer and make your road foundation as strong as possible so that you don't have as many problems with rock rolling or your driveway washing out. A local supply yard is a good place to start-they will be familiar with the typical ground composition in your area and will likely have experience laying new driveways. Ask them for a recommendation.
Just realized we didn't exactly answer the question. The answer is no, don't put minus rock on the bottom. You start with clean rock to bind the dirt, so to speak, and then minus to seal in the top.
What would be best to go over a fine, sandy driveway?
Could you tell us a little bit more about the composition and appearance of the driveway? We're not quite sure what you mean by "fine, sandy driveway."
At one time, the driveway was paved with white rock (not sure how large or small, or what kind) and someone came over it with sand. It is uneven in some spots, so you can sink in those uneven spots when walking across it. It's just fine dusty, sandy loam. Idk how else to describe sand?
That works. Our dispatcher suggests 1-¼" clean or 1-¼" minus, depending on how soft the ground is. If the ground is really soft, you could start with 2" x 4" quarry spalls to create more stability, then top those with an 1-¼" product.
Does Quarter minus come in colors?
It depends on where you get it from and what their source material is. Ours is a blue-gray color because we mine a blue-gray basalt. Decomposed granite is sometimes used as an alternative and can be tan, gray, or a number of other colors. Sometimes rock suppliers will crush drain rock to make 1/4" minus, and the crushed rock will have variations.
You could call your local rock suppliers or do a Google search in your area. If 1/4" minus isn't available, you could look for a coarse crusher dust.
Can any of these products be used in concrete?
Many of these crushed quarry rock products are used under concrete. But usually drain rock (rounded rock sized from 3/4" up to 2") is the main aggregate used in concrete.
We are under siege by feril and abandoned cats. They like the small pebble and sand as a buddha box. What we are seeking is a rock style and size to make walking by them very very uncomfortable. Any advice?
Some online articles mention that lava rock is too sharp for dog paws, so the same may be true for cats. A clean, angular gravel like crushed basalt may be uncomfortable for animals before it's compacted. You may be able to get a sample from a local landscape yard to try out.
There are many alternatives suggested online: cat repellant, installing sharp plants, placing eggshells on the ground, etc.
Can a person use a minus for a base and clean on top
Yes. What are you going for with that combination?
@@WARockQuarries going for a long lasting driveway ,in using the minus on bottom and clean as top layer , over time and compaction the minus will get pushed into the soil and strengthen the base layer and the top will last longer
You probably want to go with something like 1-1/4" Clean on top so the rock will stay in place. Compacting the surface will make it more likely to stay in place.
I have moved from Oregon with my two horse to Mexico and have been trying to work out how to buy rock here in the mountainous region where I am. I have kept my horses for many decades and had arenas built and a trail with 3/4 clean over cheap landscape cloth followed by 1/4 minus and it took the brunt of horses galloping along it very well.
My problem: Only 3/4 clean is available here, and something I think is lava rock (rust colored) which is mainly used on rough roads. I just didn't know what to do and this video has been sooo helpful I thought you might be able to answer my question: I have about a 1/4 mile of trail for my horses and at local suggestion, I put down the lava rock they love and then something called Jal which is white soft rock that turns dusty, then the 3/4 clean on top. It hasn't worked too well at all! It hasn't turned into a hard surface as I had hoped. I have found a black granular dust which they tell me comes from the granite gravel mines so I'm assuming this is the "minus" that has been washed out in the process to make their gravel.
My question: Some of the trail and driveway to our house are fairly steep and sloping. Unfortunately the lava rock and gravel are not binding together at all and the level rock not staying in place and in fact rolls underfoot. Do you think if I invested in this "minus" it would help the situation? I cannot rent a compactor unfortunately as they don't do that here but I can get the "minus" and river sand to add.
Sorry for the long message but I am in quite a quandary! Thank you so much for any help you could offer.
Wow, what an interesting and difficult quandary! It would be tough to make a suggestion without being more familiar with the products and landscape supply trade in the area. Which part of Mexico are you in?
It looks like there is a company in Mexico called CEMEX with several locations. They are primarily a cement manufacturer but appear to carry gravel. They could be a good resource in terms of providing useful recommendations or referrals to other providers.
Some other suggestions:
- Look into how the local paved roads are built. Typically in the U.S., a gravel road base is built before being paved with asphalt. That might give you some useful information about which materials work best locally and where they're sourced from.
- Call landscapers or construction companies in the closest big city and ask for advice.
- If you live near the U.S. border, you could call landscape supply yards in the closest U.S. cities and ask for advice. Some may even import crushed rock from Mexico.
- Try experimenting with small pads of different material mixes to see what works best. Perhaps the lava rock could work well on its own without 3/4" clean underneath it. You never know until you try.
So what would 411 be, 1 1/4minus?
We're not super familiar with limestone-based products, but #411 seems to be a 1" minus. A few sources say that it's basically a #57 with fines (#57 refers to the screen size that the rock passes through). #411 seems to be recommended as a driveway material for driveways with moderate traffic from heavy vehicles, so it's similar to 1-1/4" minus in that regard.
Thank you for your commendable efforts to educate the ignorant - namely, Me!
Thank you for stopping by! We're glad you found the video useful.
👍👍👍
👍👍👍
Best stones for steep incline???
Is this for a driveway?
@@WARockQuarries yes a driveway
Building a gravel driveway on a slope is a fight with gravity. Larger materials are likely to get kicked to the side. One idea for approaching it is to get a material, like 5/8" minus, and pack it down as firmly as you can, lightly watering it in to get the fines to settle into the voids between the larger pieces of gravel.
Some gravel grid suppliers like GroundGrid and BaseCore advertise that they can be used on steeper grades to slow erosion. They're basically honeycomb-like cell structures that are placed on the subgrade and backfilled with gravel. But by the time you put the money into that, you might as well have paved the driveway.
For more complicated questions like this, we recommend getting an estimate from a contractor. You can talk through the process with them, get some ideas, and figure out whether it's worth it to do the work yourself or hire a professional.
@WARockQuarries thanks for getting back to me ,intend on doing it myself 2b lime is what I have now and am constantly shoveling and raking it back up the drive
Unfortunately it sounds like you might save yourself some hassle by paving. Our dispatcher thought 1-1/4" minus or 2" minus might help with tires churning. But even he said the best solution is to "pour concrete or pave it."
Please increase volume output.
Are you saying the volume on the video is too low?
@@WARockQuarries I know you're thinking I should just raise the volume on my end, but all your videos seem to have low volume levels and I'm in the red zone on this end.
@@almyers8074 Hey, I'm genuinely interested in your feedback. I produce and edit the videos and am not a pro when it comes to volume. In my headphones at max volume, the narration sounds pretty loud. Are you using your speakers or headphones? I've noticed that the volume output isn't as good on speakers.
I usually set voiceovers at around -6 db. I'm also the narrator (because my voice is free), and I've been told I have a soft voice. So maybe I need to adjust for this.
Thanks for the feedback. Was genuinely curious whether you meant volume (sound) or volume (amount of videos published). Eve had some more feedback and information about your question.
@@user-ut6um6vy6b I use headphones/earbuds exclusively. Thanks for not taking offense to feedback.
I would like to partically fill in a hole to make it a fire pit.
Are you looking for some guidance?
At the end there was a helmet close to a stone, I hope the owner was not under the stone?
The owner was safe in a burrow under the hat. He goes there to take naps when the crushing equipment is too loud.
@@WARockQuarries - thanks for clarifying, I have been worrying about his wellbeing, really a nice and well done video by the way, I have seen those stones all my life without thinking too much about it, good luck with your stone business
I can smell what the Rock is cooking
If you can smell what the Rock is cooking, what is Kevin Bacon?
@@WARockQuarries Swine Flu 😷
What's with the "fast forward" voice at 3:40!??
It's meant to quickly cover a topic we've already covered in a previous video.
Jesus is my rock
That's awesome. Let us know if you need any advice about rocks made from other materials.
@@WARockQuarries lmfao
Amen 🙏🏽
Amen
😂
Not rock it’s stone there’s a difference
We used the words "stone" and "rock" interchangeably because most people don't know the difference and will use both when looking for information. The difference between the two is pretty murky based on dictionary definitions.
Supposedly stones are smaller than rocks, but if you've ever seen revetment stone, you know there aren't many mined rocks larger than that.
Some say stone is a construction term while rocks refer to hard substances in their natural environment. But contractors use the words interchangeably, and even our state department of transportation uses both words to describe large pieces of rock in the section of the Standard Specifications book entitled "Riprap, Quarry Spalls, Slope Protection, and Rock for Erosion and Scour Protection and Rock Walls": "Riprap and quarry spalls shall consist of broken stone or broken concrete rubble and shall be free of rock fines, soil, or other extraneous material."
Some say it comes down to differences between British English ("stone") and American English ("rock").
No doubt, there are colloquial expressions where "stone" and "rock" would sound odd if confused with each other. For example, you would never call rock climbing "stone climbing." And when you hear the words "rock wall," you probably think of quarried rock while you think of stones cut into blocks and stacked when you heard the words "stone wall."
The difference between the two probably has more to do with their origins than with anything else. According to Merriam-Webster, "stone" might be related to Old High German, Old Church Slavonic, and possibly Sanskrit. "Rock" comes from Old French. As we like to do in English, we borrow a lot of different words that have basically the same meaning and then fight later about what exactly the difference is.
In any case, we think you should use whatever word you like, and most people will know what you mean.
Burn 🔥 haha
use standard metric in mm! why the hell use inches and fractions ...its ridiculous and backward !!!
The sizes in the video are standard local product sizes in Washington State, and based on material requirements dictated by the state department of transportation. DOT requirements are usually based on standards set by organizations like ASTM International, which provides standards in both millimeters and inches. You'll find that aggregates measured in inches or with sieve sizes is typical throughout the United States.
What would be best to use for a parking pad for passenger cars in Marysville? For the base and for the top. also any recommendations on where to purchase in Marysville area? Gracias
It depends on whether you're starting with an existing gravel surface or not. But 1-1/4" Minus topped with 5/8" Minus is a standard combination. There are a few companies near you, such as Pacific Topsoils in Everett, Topsoils Northwest in Snohomish, and Riverside Sand & Gravel in Snohomish.
which type for an outdoor shed gravel pad?
5/8" minus (basically the same as 3/4" minus) is a good starting point. You could ask your local landscape supplier what they typically use.