How to Tuck Cast
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- In this video we show you how to make a tuck cast. The tuck cast is a must have cast for anyone looking to improve their drifts and depth adjustment when nymphing. It was first used by George Harvey and Joe Humphreys but isn't as widely known outside the Northeast USA as it should be. The tuck cast allows your flies to enter the water vertically and your tippet to stack slack on top of them. This creates faster sink rates and improves your drift.
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Joe Humphrey's taught me the tuck 30 years ago. Never fails. As Joe would say, "it's all in the wrist". Joe is the best!
For some reason I’ve always had a difficult time with this cast. Your video defined it perfectly. Thank you Devin.
Glad it helped Steve. It's a very useful cast when you get it down.
thank you. now i am tactical
The tuck cast is a game changer. Thanks Devin for upping our game! Love these vids.
Glad you enjoyed it
Very informative, thanks for taking the time to help me add this cast to my arsenal.
Thanks for watching. Good luck on the water!
Wonderful information as always. Would love to see a George Daniel Lance Egan and Devon Olsen on the water collaboration someday. Or even on a podcast!
That’s would be nice Daniel. Unfortunately it’s a lot harder to get us together than it once was but maybe someday we’ll make it happen.
Great job demonstrating the tuck cast. Joe Humphrey taught me to do it and when I’m nymphing I do it without realizing it because of my casting stroke always using a tuck cast
Glad you approved!
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 I approve all of your videos. Sometimes they just give me ideas on what I can do to improve my cast and or presentation
Great explanation and video, Devin! The shot from behind you of the line rolling out, stopping cold, and sending the flies straight down , kerplunk!, at 6:50 is remarkable!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great teaching! Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey Devin - I've struggled with this cast. Appreciate the video!
Hopefully it helps.
Thanks as always for the videos! I am trying to understand in what situation I would want that slack on the top of the water. Sorry if I missed the main point...but I always want to learn more, thanks again!
It’s all about having the capability to increase or decrease your sink rate as needed. Stacking slack will make your flies sink much faster.
Devin first wanted to thank you for making me a better angler. Two questions. 1) When do you take up the slack when tuck casting or do you wait for the flies to reach bottom? 2) Tight line is working well for me on river bottoms that are free of obstructions but, I fish a river in Michigan that was logged back in the day. Many of the logs remain. An advice on get a drift under those circumstances?
Curtis,
1. If you're floating the sighter, you will just match the speed of the current the sighter is in. Don't let coils of slack pile up and don't strip too much so that the sighter moves downstream faster than the speed of the current. If I'm not intending to float the sighter for the entire drift, I allow flies to drift until I see tension in the sighter and the tippet below and then slowly strip slack to develop tension through the leader.
2. Sounds like some 1950s forest management going on if they're still using the river for transport. If I'm having to fish around logs, I fish heavier nymphs or streamers than usual and jig them in the gaps.
I never understood why Joe differentiated between the downer and upper vs tuck. I feel like in any situation that I want to throw a tuck (which is most times) I execute it in the “downer and upper” fashion. It’s all about the stop and push, hence Joe’s saying “you got to squeeze it!”
Thanks for the video! Quick question. Can you effectively tuck cast with a micro leader or do you need to use a heavier mono leader to get better turnover of the leader and flies?
You can combine an oval cast with the downer and upper variation to get a tuck with the micro leader. It's usually not as pinpoint accurate or aggressively vertical but it will definitely help with sink rate when you need it.
Another informative video! Good job! Was that a in-line drop indicator you where using?
No, it was just extra knots in the leader to hold grease. I was using a leader we were filming a floating the sighter video with on the same trip.
Ok thanks
Thank you! Tuck casting is something I've been recently working on and this video is incredibly helpful. One thing I'm wondering is if instead of a traditional back cast, can you use a wrist based oval cast to get the flies behind you under tension and then finish with an overhead cast stopping high (or doing the down and up variation)? I'm thinking this might reduce tangles. Thanks again!
You can do that but the repeatability and the acuteness of the tuck generally suffer. I do it a lot on a micro leader but if you have a thicker euro leader then a standard vertical stroke is generally more effective. It just takes practice to avoid the tangles.
Could you do a video on how to fish tiny midges on a euro rig? I have tried fishing an unweighted sz 24 midge on a tag with a heavy anchor fly to drag it down. I had no luck with picky tail water trout.
Dan,
It's something we will add to the list for next winter. I personally don't find much success with small unweighted midges most of the time on Euro rigs. However, I do very well with size 20s that have 2 or 2.3 beads along with a heavier patterns like Walt's Worms, eggs, mops, squirmies, or Blowtorches to accompany it. Depending on the water and your leader makeup, you may also only need a couple of smallish beaded midges if you tuck cast and work on the quality of your drifts.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 Awesome. Thanks for the advice I appreciate it a lot!
Does fishing one or two nymphs affect how the tuck cast is performed?
Rick, It doesn't affect how the cast is performed but being consistent with two nymphs is definitely harder. Just make sure you fully wait until the nymphs turnover on your back cast. That's usually the source of casting errors with two nymphs.
this seems alittle contradictory to other euro experts for the tuck cast. i was under the impression that the fly first and more vertical entry of the tuck cast allows for quicker attainment of depth, but 2nd, allows for quicker contact as you typically dont have alot of slack (aka sighter/leader on the water). i have read that with a proper tuck cast, your flies enter first but you also should have an established sighter angle and contact from the get-go. or this physically impossible? can you clarify? much thanks! your videos have helped my euro technique immensely!
Unless you are doing it at pretty short range there is enough kickback from the leader when it lands that it’s hard to keep your sighter off the water when tuck casting. If you are trying to hold your sighter off the water, you will also be removing the slack that makes the sink rate improve so much at the beginning of the drift after the tuck cast. If it’s a spot where I need immediate strike detection, I generally don’t tuck cast and I try to get my rig to land horizontally and tight on delivery.
Hey Devin, what is the black thing on your reel that is sticking off? What is it for?
It’s a semi automatic reel. It retrieves line quickly when pulled. We have several on our site.
Is this going to mess up my traditional casting over time?
As long as you understand casting principles, you should be able to cast in any manner you want. Tuck casting hasn’t altered my own cast but I’m constantly adjusting my cast to set up the presentation I want.
Appreciate the description but your background made it difficult to actually see what you are doing
the tuck cast doesnt make physical sense. I therefore sincerely doubt its effectiveness.
That's certainly your prerogative. Happy Fishing.
??????? ?
Tenkara. It's a tenkara-style cast. 🤦♂
Trout don’t ‘eat’ a fly. They ‘take’ it. They aim to eat it, but their plan is foiled by the angler. Eat = ingest.
Thank you for the semantic discussion.
@@tacticalflyfisher3817 - Thank you for your learned instruction!