The Truth About Battery Desulfators
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- čas přidán 8. 10. 2014
- For more detailed information, please check out this report:
bit.ly/updated-battery-recond...
After working with hundreds of batteries, using every battery desulfator out there from the $20 ones to the $20,000 ones (the military uses them for aircraft batteries), I thought I would share some of what I learned.
A couple of pointers:
A 12v battery below around 10 volts may have a bad cell and will be difficult to bring back, if not impossible.
An idea of how powerful a desulfator needs to be in order to work quickly - think of a high-frequency welder. That is the power range for deep cycle batteries. It is possible to turn a welder into a desulfator, but not advised. Batteries blow-up.
The small desulfators are designed to keep batteries from sulfating more than they are capable of desulfating them from a neglected, low voltage condition. They can work but they will take many weeks and will usually not work for multi-battery banks like golf carts and solar power systems use. You will need one for each battery.
Using epson salts will kill your battery in short order, though you may see it restored briefly.
You know you are using a serious desulfator - like the last one I showed - when your batteries are popping, vibrating, and you don't want to be in the room with them! That means the current and voltage spikes are knocking the sulfate off, opening up the plates, and sending the sulfate back into solution.
If you have specific battery questions, please leave them below and I will answer them.
For more detailed information, please check out this report:
trk.as/battery-renewing-report - Auta a dopravní prostředky
People are missing the point. This whole thing is just click bait to try to convince you to click the link, and then spend $40 on... whatever. Dude's just casting a wide net and hoping a couple people actually click the link and pay the money so that he can get a buck for the affiliate reference. It's just a sad pyramid scheme. Dude's probably made $6 total in the last 5 years off of this, meanwhile 100,000 people are annoyed by having viewed the video hoping for useful info and finding only a crappy sales pitch.
Making use of the czcams.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
When I click on your link I get another website pop up on battery reconditioning. I wanted to read battery-renewing -report. Thanks
Sir how about the smart charger FOXSUR 12/24 volts car battery charger with pulse repair, you recommend it ?
Good upload
Hello, what about (2) 24v forklift battery bank (brand new) for total OFF GRID using Schneider XANTREX
XW conexts?
hey do they have one for 38mhz??
So I have 6 6 V batteries in series and parallel to make 3 12s. Also have a magnum energy 136 amp charger with equalization capability that I don’t utilize as often as I should. This battery set up is on a sailboat where battery condition is very important.
Is there a difference between a desulfator and equalizing? Also I know because it is such a large bank that and such a high ah capacity to fit this would be quite expensive and I’m just looking for something more for maintenance then rejuvenating. Just looking for an opinion. Thanks.
Great video and info! Have a 3 year old 36 battery bank; all 6v deep cycle golf cart batteries on solar array; have allowed acid to get well below plate tops on most; to the point charge controller stopped the electrical flow. Some read 5v; some still 6v and some 0v; Please say the best way to check and recover this 24 volt system using Interstate GC2-XHD. Many Thanks! have subscribed and reading all replies again.
Glad I found this video, can you recommend one for me? I have two expensive AGM Lifeline 4D 12 volt deep cycle batteries that I harshed a little bit using a dorm fridge for a few months in a van solar setup. Can I use that $25 one if I have the time to let it work? Thank you.
Hi Wanderlustman,
I only just saw this comment so I hope I am responding soon enough. A 4D 12 volt deep cycle battery, especially AGM, is a fairly high AmpHr battery. The small desulfators will take several days to weeks to have much impact. AGM cells are not supposed to sulfate at near the rate of standard FLA (flooded lead acid). What you might try is use the technique from another video I have posted where I brought back a stone dead AGM battery by running it in parallel with a cheap FLA. After a few days of cycling, the AGM was as good as new!
@@batteryrenew8559 what can I buy to desulfate my red top, I left a comment before this guy, if you could help me out I'd greatly appreciate it
Hello, do you know if Noco chargers which come with desulfator included like Noco 5 do work? Thanks
I have a optima red top, and this is my 2nd one, the first one lasted me 9 years, but I also brought that one back from the dead 3 times, optima told me to drop the battery in the grass at waist level and it will knock the sulfate off the plates to take a charge, believe it or not that did work, I now have a new battery only 3 years old and it has a dead cell and I cannot get it to come back, what can I do to get that to come back, ive heard I can jolt it with 120 house power a couple times and then throw it back on the charger, what are you thoughts thanks in advance
I bought a $40 one off of Amazon that dose it all by itself a desulfator/battery maintainer
Good job making the video, it was very informative. I use a Pulse Tech PowerPulse passive desulfator, they claim to have a patented frequency they use to desulfate batteries, I have been using it on my BMW battery for the past three years and never have any issue's starting even though I only drive about 25 miles per week.
Hi I'm glad I ran across your channel. I got a question, I got one of those Infinitum desulfators are those to be used on your battery all the time? I've had mine hooked up to my battery for years and today I just bought a new AGM battery. Will the desulfator's work with the AGM batteries? and are they suppose to be wired to the battery permanently. Thanks for sharing.
I bought a Batteryminder plus 12117TC from Northern Tool that says I can leave it on all the time. Do you have any advice for me? Can you leave it on 24/7? Or should I take off after a month? Also using on my Toyota hybrid car battery. That battery is already 6 years old. What’s the best I can get out of it?
I use my very old pickup battery for backup LED lighting when power goes out in storms. I kept it on a 1.5A BatteryMinder for YEARS(5-6 not sure maybe more)before the charger started flashing a yellow warning last week. Just checked voltage of the old 1,000 cca Power King and it's 10.7 so I think the old girl finally gave up and needs to be recycled. On a guess I bought it 10 years ago and used it in the Silverado for 4 years,again,not really sure on timelines.
How do I get back my battery up and running without use a desulfator
Lots of good info. If I can keep the solar batteries lasting for 10 years over the expected 4 years then the knowledge is well worth it. Looking forward to your other videos.
Hi Covercall!
Thank you for the nice comment. I need to post my solar power battery secrets that have given me over 10
years of full capacity use from normal GC2 deep cycle batteries. Most
of the tips I have never heard anyone recommend, but they have kept my
system performing at 100% when under normal conditions the batteries would be about 50% or dead by now.
Hope your solar power cells keep their capacity while you get full discharge from them. I think oversizing the battery bank to restrict the discharge to 75-80% is an expensive decision compared to using a few of my techniques that allow for regular 50% cycles while keeping the batteries strong for a decade or more.
I am now reworking my Prius NiMH batteries using the same systems from the guide in the link. It is saving me over $4000 in replacement costs..score!
Is it possible to make batteries as good as new using desulfating or battery renewing? What about power tool batteries, computer batteries, wheel chair batteries??
As hard as this is to believe, using my Renaissance Radiance Battery Chargers I routinely sent renewed batteries back to clients reading well over the stated CCA and AmpHr rating based on my advanced ATI tester. However, standard desulfators will generally not give you a better than new rating because all they are doing is sending sulfate back into solution. Radiance chargers stimulate more reaction and capacity in batteries. They work especially well with NiMH batteries for power tools.
What about agm or Optimus what would you suggest for the DIY at home?
@All the boost I am not a fan of AGM batteries other than for specific applications. Once you over drain an AGM, they are more difficult to renew. See my video of how I brought an expensive AGM battery back from dead (well below 10 V) to fully charged and long lasting.
I have 2 trojan j305e-ac 6v batteries that are in good shape. Im wanting to run them in parallel for a camper with a small 420w solar setup. I'm looking for recommendations for a desulfator to ensure that they stay in good shape for many years.
Take a look at a Pulse Tech PowerPulse with a patented frequency that they state can extend your battery life up to three years.
Thank You for thr great video and information. Some desulfator claim that you simply connect them to the battery in your car and they work 24 hrs a day, works even while driving the car. Your thoughts on that please. This would be for maintaining the battery. Again Thank You
I hope you get an answer.......I'd like to know to. Which one's do this????
Hello Phillip, thank your for the question. I would not run a desulfator in the summer full time. In the winter it will not harm the battery as it will when the lead plates become soft. A decent desulfator sends high amplitude fields through the battery that can expand the lead and blow out the battery if you run it too long. I have done this a few times unfortunately. Run the desulfator while monitoring the steady state voltage, internal resistance, CCA and Amp hrs if you can. Once you reach near the rating, remove the desulfator, especially in the summer. Hope this helps!
Hi,
Any opinion on Ossie Callanan's circuit or Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator ? 😐
Thanks.
I checked out the Ossie Callanan's circuit. It appears to offer a pulse spike of voltage and amperage based around the magnetic force driven solenoid. While it will work the same in principle as several desulphator's, it appears to offer less control and does not auto-tune to the frequency required to reach resonance with the battery. Much like how the Tacoma Narrow's bridge blew apart when the resonant frequency hit, a radiant charger and desulphator will blow the sulphation off of a lead core battery and expand the lead cells to renew the battery - in principle. The summary is, the Ossie Callanan's circuit does not seem to have the ability to desulphate as directly as the radiant oscillators would. Hope this helps! Interesting circuits for sure!
Battery Renew Thank you for your intricate explanation & reply. 😊
Thanks for the vid. I have a 74ah lead acid car battery standing for just over 2 years. Voltage across battery is around 11.3v. Battery is sulphated. I have a optimate 6 battery charger but just not bringing the battery back to life. How would u suggest I bring this battery back to life. I've seen people charge batteries with 200A for 15mins then let the battery rest for an hour. Do this cycle 5 times. Do u recommend?
eBay -> Battery Desulfator
i was thinking of getting the Battery Life Saver BLS-48N for my 48v golf cart. the batteries are new. will this work for my new batteries? thanks
Hi +0202revan and thank you for the question!
I would not get that unit now. With new batteries you see no impact for a minimum of 2 years as long as you run your batteries to a reasonable state of discharge of approximately 30-50% for a golf cart and then immediately recharge them with an equalization cycle every 10th charge. Plus keep the battery water level just above the plates, no higher to avoid increasing pressure and heat.
Your better money would go into buying a product called Battery Equaliser and pouring some in each cell once a year. Depending on where you live, it will keep the battery plates from shedding and wearing in hot climates, and improve battery capacity in cold climates. More importantly, it will prevent sulphation from starting earlier. For the first year only use half the recommended about - it pricey.
Also, if you are willing to, rotate your batteries to distribute the load every 6 months or so. This way you will not lose all 8 batteries when only one goes below standard because you overworked that one batteries plates the main terminal.
Make sure to keep your terminals clean and covered in vaseline or lithium grease to prevent corrosion. A major source of early battery failure.
Follow these "extra" tips and you can get double the life out of the batteries. After about 2 years you can add a desulfator like BLS-48N but unhook it after 10 charge discharge cycles or you will start destroying your plates.
I hope this long winded answer helps and congrats on a fresh set of lead!
The links are not reports...they are a $47 infomercial. Says he is not doing it for the money...think we are stupid!! Everything boils down to money or power...in this case, money!
Would you recommend a low power Battery Desulfator I could leave on my car all the time as I drive without harming it?
The one I have used with some success is called the Wizbang desulfator. I do not recommend running any desulfator for more than one month unless you want to eventually destroy the plates. Even those that claim you should keep them on all the time, I find that the plates will begin shedding far earlier than without the desulfator in place.
@@batteryrenew8559 can you tell me what to buy or do to get my red top optima back, I had one before and it lasted 9 years and I've brought that back from the dead a few times, I left a comment before this guy if you read that thanks in advance
For most people, spending $1200.00-$1400.00 to restore a old lead battery to maybe 50-60% doesn't make sense.
haha yep but the kicker is his statement -> "I've had a bunch of them!" which tells me they are crap
What is your opinion on thr pulsetech xcr 16amp charger and sulfator is it any good?
I have a pulsetech. It has been too picky about which batteries it will "accept" for reconditioning. Not been impressed with it. I prefer the desulfators that connect and go - no rejections unless you have seriously shorted cells which could be below 6 V on a 12 volt system, though usually around 9 volt.
Hi....... I have (2) 5+ yr.old OPTIMA-Red Tops that have been sitting about for awhile for my 2 car's that have been broken down for a few years.
---- I used my Schumacher XC103 on these batteries for about 20 charges both on the AGM and STD modes at different charge setting....(not sure if I should've done that or not) but that charger is supposed to be able to desulfate batteries automatically however not sure if it's really does a good job or not.....
--- I should buy a designated desulfator like you mention in your video.
I was able to bring up 1 Optima to about 12.5v and the other only to 12.3v resting after 24hrs.
I also have an old Battery Tender Plus (Supersmart) that I haven't used yet on these batteries.....
Can you please offer me any advice on what to do???????
I appreciate any help.
That battery tender plus is perfect for your needs or a noco genius g750. The noco is only .75 amps but it's good for your batteries or you can get one of there other models that offer higher amps.
Optima's are AGM and somewhat difficult to renew. The best way to work an AGM battery is to place it in parallel with a standard battery and run it a high amperage with desulfating running only on the Optimat battery. Monitor it carefully but you could bring the battery back over 12.7 v, or fully charged. I have a video showing me doing this with my Prius on the channel.
Should i keep my desulfator on all the time
Thanks for the video. I do have a question. I have a solar system and want to install desulfators. Should I install one per battery, or will on work for the complete battery bank? I installed my bank less than 3 months ago. At first it was completely charging within a couple of hours. Now it does not go above 80%.
+Ray o Hi Ray! I know the frustration you are going through with your solar power battery bank because I have experienced the same issues because of bad charge controllers. Unless your batteries were over 2 years old or seriously abused, a desulfator is not the issue. Your issue may well be that you have not equalized your batteries, or more accurately, your charge controller has not equalized them.
Here is what I do with my own battery bank: I use one of those big automotive 12 volt chargers on wheels ($150 vs $500+ for a 24 volt charger/controller), and charge two sets of 6 V batteries at a time until they are a red hot 13.1 volts. This is a surface charge that dissipates after an hour or so. Your batteries will probably settle at 12.8 Volts. Then check the charge profile of your controller to make sure it is capable of driving your charging voltage up to about 15 volts for a 12 volt system, and 30 Volts for a 24 volt system. If you are not using MPPT controllers, you may have a hard time reaching the required 15 volts because 12 volt panels through a PWM controller can't drive the necessary voltage.
After working with thousands of deep cycle batteries, my experience showed that you need major juice to impact the heavy plates without spending weeks to months desulfating. You might be trying to desulfate with those small, car battery designed desulfators. They are ok if you have weeks and lightly sulfated batteries.
Start with a high amp auto charger, minimum 20 Amps, but 40 Amps is better, or even 60-100 amps. My system is roughly 460 Amp-Hrs, sort of small, but I have been able to keep 7 year old batteries at full capacity with practically no degradation.
After you equalize, then install Battery Equaliser and you will preserve clean plates and see your full capacity return.
Let me know how this works!
If you just installed the batteries and this happens, the first thing you need to do is check for a bad battery/cell that is dragging you bank down ! Id be willing to bet that was your issue 2 years ago...
@@batteryrenew8559 (other than the equalizing), will this method of charging at the maximum recomended C rating of each AGM flat plate battery help to get rid of the sulfation. (my max recomended charge rate per battery is 35A.) My 12V 930 AH solar battery bank does not have the capacity that it once did. It's only 2 years old.
I have a twelve Trojan L16E-AC flooded batteries. Have you seen the "Battery Extra" desulfator from the UK? $139. There are a lot of solar guys getting them...and like it. Trojan says not to hook a desulfator to their batteries...but, they SELL batteries. So, gonna try the Battery Extra out and see what it does. Thanks.
I happen to have that desulfator..and just about every other one made:) Man am I weird about batteries..but on to your question. The Battery Extra works in a similar fashion to the other battery desulfators that use a batteries own voltage for desulfating. The difference is the Battery Extra shifts voltages to find the frequency that will degrade the sulfate and expand the plates. This is a useful function. The issue is that like all ride along desulfators not using external power, they take a while to work and are limited as to the decomposing power they offer. This is an improved unit over the standard in line desulfators, but at 3x the cost.
Thanks! I took a peek at some of the battery cells (three weeks with that unit hooked up to my bank). They are def not sulfating...and look much cleaner too (more shiny). Looks like it is doing something.
Hi Chris DIYer! When you have weeks to allow batteries to desulfate, even the lower power units can work for sure. Glad your batteries are coming back to service. Do not leave the desulfator any longer than necessary or you will start seeing shedding of the plates FYI.
Great advice. I think 4-weeks will be long enough and then pull the fuse.
I just bought 2 group 24 Marine Batteries for my backhoe (massey ferguson 50a) to hook up in parallel and was wondering what you'd recommend for me to put inline with my batteries as a "maintainer". Are desulfators only for using after there is damage or is there an answer for preventing damage to my batteries? Is there such a thing for better peace of mind? Thanks for your time
Since you just bought your batteries, I would not recommend battery desulfators, but definitely Battery Equaliser. Marine batteries are a mixture of starting and deep cycle that can run well for many years if you care for them properly. If you either leave them to discharge for a long time, or you deeply dishcarge them for some reason, then a desulfating charger will be beneficial. Otherwise, a desulfator is only effective after about 2 years of normal use. They can harm new batteries by eventually blowing apart the plates. I learned this the hard way:)
Group 24 Marine batteries from a solid brand can run at least 5-7 years when well maintained and desulfated starting around 2 or 3 years in.
Battery Renew Thank you for your reply. I'll be getting battery equilizer this afternoon. Starting from square one, I just want to do everything right. You've got a great channel and many informative videos. Thanks again
Glad I could help you out! Nobody likes spending money on batteries unnecessarily, especially when you can tweak your use just a little and avoid any problems for many, many years. My solar power batteries are running strong after 10 years, when their predicted use life was only 3-5 years.
Sounds like a good estimate for Desulfators that output 200 milliamps or less (AKA the cheap $20 ones) Take about a Pound of Battery per day as a good estimate i found out of course providing the battery is in the correct condition and the battery isnt too big for a weak desulfator. In my experience, the cheap ones are only good for good sized motorcycle batteries, a car battery would take forever and may not even work due to the higher resistance and such. 30 pounds= 30 days and so forth.
I can't find it now, but the first one he showed , I had learned is good for "preventive maintenance" . You hook it up during low solar input months to prevent sulfication. Not so critical when your topping your batteries off regularly, but very important in the winter when your batteries never really get floated. Rumor has it, used properly it can double the life of you battery bank.
Yes, the smaller desulfators with lower power will help avoid the 3rd year steep decline curve when sulfation begins to cause heat and sloughing problems with the cells.
@@batteryrenew8559 wow,, thanx for your wisdom, I am still new to it (still less than 2 years) on my battery bank, but they amp and volt test as brand new. I use the desulifier every week I do not get a good float on my battery bank. That mean,, most of the winter.
@@affordablesolarguy how long does that take with what device? I've got a 12v bank of 8-l16 batteries that are suffering in the winter. I've got no grid tie, just a gennie
@@stuartscanlon5820 the small, 3-4 kwh battery type can stay on all year round, but I only use them in the winter, ALL winter, when my batteries almost never get topped off to 95 or 100 %
@@stuartscanlon5820 This is a link to one of my videos showing the type I use , trust and can stay on all year round, the link goes to the middle for actual view of the device, 25 bucks on Ebay czcams.com/video/QA1MX3plx38/video.html
Have you tried the pulsetech extreme charger? It uses frequency pulses not voltage spikes to remove the sulfate crystals
Question, I have six of the VMAX XTR12-155 AGM batteries. They are very expensive $375.00 a piece. They are supposed to have superior plates. Because of my ignorance of not charging at or above the recommended charging rate or a Iota DLS-IQ4 smart charger (55 amp) that has a absorption duration of 8 hours that I would use on occasion and also unequal lengths of interconnecting battery cables, they no longer have the capacity the once had. I normally charge them with a MPPT charge controller. They are just over 2 years old. They accept a charge and hold 12.7 or 12.6 volts over night. I recently bought a Ancel brand battery tester. Five of the batteries show a internal resistance of between 5.12 mΩ and 6.02 mΩ. and the over all battery health between 33% to 44%. The 6th battery shows a internal resistance of 10.44 mΩ. and over all health at 10%. This is the one that is dragging down the bank the most. I removed this one from the battery bank. The manufactures state that the internal resistance should be 3.1 mΩ. I an considering buying the Infinitum desulfator. I will attempt to restore one battery at a time starting with the worst one. The only way that I can think of to know if I am being successful is to monitor the internal resistance (other than measuring watts coming out vs. voltage). Should I keep the desulfator on the battery until the internal resistance comes back to 3.1 mΩ or stop if it gets close,..... to hopefully not ruin the battery? Please share your thoughts and guide me. This is a very expensive battery bank. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Wish I had better news. AGM batteries are not designed to handle a desulfation process because the solution is often in a gel and fiber matrix that is supposed to prevent sulfation. Strange to see 2 year old batteries go bad so quickly. Here is one way to bring each battery back from the dead . and 10% to44% is nearly dead. Connect each battery separately to a high powered charger (around 15 amps would be good) in parallel ( + to +, - to -) with a lead acid battery. Charge the pair until you get a full reading. Draw down the batteries to about 50% and repeat three times. By the third time your AGM's should be well back to full capacity. It has worked for me, but try at your own risk. The batteries should never have lost so much capacity early on unless there was a >50% draw down repeatedly. AGM's do not handle >50% draws well. Hope this helps.
Thank you. I did not have to build my 30v pulse desulfator.
I would build your pulse desulfator and use it on all your batteries that are 3 years and older. Just like I do to double the life of my batteries.
Battery renew , how much?
Wow, you're the first person I've seen on youtube to have, use and show a bedini solid state charger and actually say, that it almost works too well haha. I had similar experience with small scale SSG models (wheels with magnets and stuff) and they do the same thing, although I probably never dreamed of the kinda charging speed your 24V charger has.
+TheRadiastral Thanks for watching and commenting on my video! I am interested in your SSG system and the kind of results you achieved. My experience with the Bedini chargers - sold under Renaissance Charger brand - is that they can restore batteries, but only at certain levels. The Bedinia chargers can also blow plates a part! I had to run out of the room when I threw the switch on my chargers because everything from fires to explosions to restoring a battery was possible. I have tried almost every battery restoring technology out there. For most people, the Renaissance chargers are financially not suitable except their little 12 volt model that barely works. The big boys cost around $1500 or so - have not checked lately - and can restore about 50% of batteries that have some life left in them.
Got any videos up of your SSG set-up? I would be curious to see it!
It's been almost 3 years since I last did any energizers, been experimenting with them for about a year and a half until then. I surely miss it, so might do some more experiments, try some ideas in the near future, we'll see. As to results I was getting.. hard to say. I restored to some degree all 5 batteries (bought as broken from scrapyard) that I've ever used for these projects, ranging from 7Ah to I think 60, using probably 10-12 different machines, all based on SSG circuit. See, i've never measured the amphours I generated with any machine, never had any before, so can't give any numbers. To my initial astonishment I could roughly swap batteries 1:1 for, what seemed, as long as i wanted, but that doesn't tell you what actual losses are, in Ah. As the time went by, loss of Ah became apparent, but it took many weeks, probably months.
+TheRadiastral Have you restored or repaired any power tool batteries? I used to restore NiMH all the time with my renaissance systems, but now am working on Li Ion batteries with much more caution. This is experimental mostly. I consider deep cycle desulphating and restoration an established method even if there are a lot of questions about which desulphator works and which one is just a glorified power chopping circuit. Since I have a fairly sophisticated capacity tester (all units including the primary CCA and AmpHr) I have been able to confirm when one of my desulphators actually does the job. When the process works, and I restore either a completely dead battery into working, or take a low capacity battery back to full capacity or higher, I feel like I won the lottery! You might check some of my answers with +ButchTropic where I discuss how to measure capacity accurately. You sound like a battery guy like me, and could get years of use out of the investment.
Battery Renew I worked solely with lead-acid. Now that you mentioned it, however.. I remember from Bedini's lectures, that NiMH and NiCd can be charged without issues, but can Li-ion cells be pulse charged safely this way too? Does it work with those and if not 100%, then what issues have you noticed?
My renaissance chargers worked very well with NiCd and NiMH. I was usually able to return most of the power tool batteries to service after a few cycles with the charger. Li-Ion batteries almost always have a protective circuit that I have to bypass for renewing the battery. Then there is the issue of exploding them :) The same principle works with Li Ion, just a more risky proposition. I will let you know how my next Rybio Li-Ion reconditioning effort goes. Those batteries crapped out on the Ryboi Li-Ion rechargeable kit in something like three cycles!! Talk about a rip off...If the renewing does not work, then I am going to rebuild the packs by only replacing the batteries that are undervoltage. Have you been renewing your own batteries and how?
Hey, i got a 5/2014 (3 years old) group 29DC deep cycle everstart battery i use for an inverter battery bank. I didnt maintain the water and the cell closest to the negative terminal got dry and now it gets warm when I charge it. Refilled with distilled water and doeant get as hot, but resting voltage wont go over 12.6vdc. Would a small desulfator like the wizbang bring this battery back??? Please let me know
Hi @xboxer1985, I have had several batteries with plates that were left uncovered but came back to meet standards. Your best option would be to add Battery Equaliser to your battery, roughly half the amount recommended, fully recharge it, draw it down to 11 VDC, and repeat the cycle 3 times. Battery Equaliser will bond to your dry plate, attack the rust, and allow the plate to reactivate while strengthening it. You can probably get the batter up to 13.1 VDC with charging after this process. Hope this helps!
Battery Renew alrighty ill give it a try! Reviews seem pretty good.
when you say draw it down to 11VDC, do you mean 11VDC open circuit? I got the battery equalizer today, and put 2 oz in the one bad cell. put 1 oz in all the other cells as recommended by the bottle.
Great! Battery equalizer takes about three cycles to start working. I use a 12 v harbor freight inverter to power something such as a drill or light bulb. The HF inverter will automatically shut off - if it has that feature - once your batter reaches 11 volts. Recharge the battery and run the cycle two more times. You will see an increase in capacity around the third cycle. The big mining companies use Battery Equalizer on their $10k batteries, so you can be sure it is legitimate.
Battery Renew so before BE, resting voltage was 12.5vdc, added 2oz BE to bad cellular , discharged to 10.5, recharge, rest at 12.8v, discharge recharge again. Resting voltage now 13.01 after 8 hours sitting. Using an IOTA DLS-90amp multistage charger. It holds the battery at 14.5v for a predetermined time, drawing 5A. Battery does get warm so ive had to shorten that time at 14.5 so it doesnt overheat too much. So it seems to be getting better.
Link to an infomercial.........
How do you know... like with a desulfator how to not get something that's too powerful? Is there such a thing? Like,... do you not want to exceed a certain power rating with a desulfator and how do you know what that is?
Interesting video thanks for sharing, couple of quick questions if I may - 1) if you have a 12v battery with a swollen cell is there any coming back for it or once a cell has swollen that is it, battery for the scrap heap? 2) Is it a bad idea to put a desulfator on a really discharged battery, will it damage it or best to make sure its pretty much charged up before adding the desulfator? Thanks for your time :)
+coolamasta1 Thanks for stopping by and asking important questions. 1. I routinely worked on batteries with swollen cells and brought them back like new. Be careful about your making sure your plates are covered up to about 1/4" or 8 mm with solution over the plates, caps off, and desulfate in a cool envirornment. The goal is to work the plates as hard as possible without increasing the heat leading to more wharping. Usually batteries in the S.E. wind up with warped sides after three years or less meaning I saw "bubble" batteries all the time. 2. You want to start desulfating from a heavily discharged batter for the best effect. My automated desulfators or radiant chargers would drain my batteries way below recommended levels then recharge then over 15 volts for a 12 volt. That is smoking hot and not a great idea but it would leave the plates expanded with sulfate pounded back into solution. Hope these ideas help you!
+Battery Renew Thanks very much for the reply, that is great info, I only have a small desulphator which is the Infinitum which is the 3rd one you show in your vid so it will prob take a while but will give it a go and see if I can bring it back!
I did have to top the cells up as a couple were just dropping below the plates but not by a massive amount, it seems like its just the swollen cell that's not taking a proper charge, when charging it will sit at a good 14v then when you take charger off if will slowly drop down to around 12.1 / 12.2v but then you leave it a few hours it will drop and sit around 10.8 which is why I though it was beyond repair, testing voltage in each cell does show the swollen one to be the one not putting out much where the other 5 are a good 2v each.
It sounds like the battery was either over charged, or charged without enough solution to cover the plates. The plates will overheat, rust, and lose the ability to hold a charge exactly as you described. You did not mention how old the battery was but heat makes a battery behave as though it has aged.
An desulfator that rides on the current of the charger can fool the charger into thinking the battery is charged or bad. I tried these in line style of desulfators but they never worked on hard case batteries where the sulfate had been baked in during a charge. They would help somewhat on lightly discharged batteries.
I hope it works out for you though!
How long is very long for the cheap batteries ?
+karebu2 Thank you for the question and stopping by! I think you are asking how long it takes to desulfate either using the cheap desulfators or with cheap batteries? Not quite sure what you are asking, but the low end desulfators can take weeks of charging and discharging batteries to get the sulfate off the plates. For deep cycle batteries they are not worth it. For small, cheap batteries like some motorcycle, lawn mower, wheel chair, and small car batteries, they can work over time. Most people need their batteries working in a few hours, not a week or more, so I never used the cheap desulfators other than to experiment with. I hope I answered your question!
wow. weeks. i have a battery tender/desulf but i never gave it enough time to do its job. i usually give up on my old battery in 2 days instead of waiting for it to be reconditioned.
I remember talking with one of the golf cart dealers I would trade batteries with and he thought he was succeeding with desulfating by running his batteries through 50 cycles to "refresh" them. It took weeks to do and I know he was beating them up and killing their lifespan. We want short, powerful desulfating with no more than 3 cycles. Then the batteries are renewed and they are not losing 15% of their life cycle during the process.
Can you dissolve the sulfate crystal by dipping the battery in an ultrasonic bath ?
Good idea, but possibly you might cause even additional microfractures on the battery's electrodes (plates) in general. 🙄😑
Hi, I own an aerial lift rental business and I am interested in battery re conditioners, where can I look for the products you sell?
Hi Javier,
I do not directly sell any products now, though I used to sell batteries, reconditioning services, and battery reconditioning tools and supplies.
I would guess your aerial lifts use L16 batteries because those are the ones I used to recondition for my aerial lift clients.
The trick with L16 batteries is to use high power reconditioners just when you see them start degrading in performance, usually after 100 cycles. Use Battery Equalizer to start off with, run a full discharge - equalizing charge cycle, and return to service. Then uses high powered desulfators every 6 months or so. You can expect to more than double the life of the batteries with this regimen. Also, since you probably use 4-6 L16's in each lift, number them, and rotate them once a quarter or at least twice a year. This will save your positive cells from degrading faster, especially on the first battery. The entire battery bank will run at higher capacity for much longer this way.
I hope this helps!
Seems to me that rotation is key to long life ... rc
The link is a very long infomercial
I have an AGM battery which is hovering around 10v, it is warned on the label the interior of the battery is acid, can I add conservative amounts of battery acid to reallow the ~glass pack to reabsorbe any which have been lost like a traditional battery?
It's a Stinger 2100
Adding acid to an AGM battery is not likely to help your battery. You can slowly work on an AGM battery with a low power desulfator or check out how I completely fixed an expensive AGM battery using a cheap SLA battery in parallel on my Prius video.
O.k. thanks. I did top it off with distilled water, and gave it many cycles from a healthy 12 volt. It is atleast holding a charge, yet not sure about cranking power as the car is being built however is still powering the car (interior lights, audio system, led system). I'll look into getting a desulfater.
As far as the distilled water I added....shall I drain it, or leave it be?
AGM's are designed to load the acid and electrolyte solution into Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) that will not typically release any vapors like a typical lead acid. Unless you seriously cooked your AGM battery, I would not add any water or acid. If you did cook the battery, which is over charging it until you blow a valve releasing vapor, the likelyhood is that a plate has been damaged.
Since you are holding a charge now by using the parallel battery trick, you may be OK. Good luck!
I was saying I had already topped it off with distilled water (before I had saw your comments) what shall I do, leave it, dump half of it, or all of it?
You can leave it. As long as you are not aggressively charging your battery, in the 2-4 amps range, you should be fine. At 6+ amps you may well see boiling expand or crack the case if it is sealed again.
how about build one that guy plans
Anyone here know if a NOCO GENIUS2 will actually repair dead battery? A 2 AMP charger that claims to desulfate.
the last one in microprocessor controlled and i have to be careful? why ,what not to do?
how about a real test on a sulfated battery,that would be nice.
My little $40 battery minder serves me very well. If you have the time and methods can be very effective at reviving lifeless batteries.
americanstrife The specific brand "Battery Minder"? I have one and I did not have much luck, but I think dissimilar and unequal states of two parallelly connected batteries lead to over-charging the decent one while the weak one continued self-discharging. I'm trying this again on another weak battery.
@@louf7178 Battery Minder 1500 is what I have and yes if attempting to desulfate batteries in parallel one cannot be discharged more than the other. I have two hooked up right now in parallel and is working great.
@@ianwilds3139 Just a word of caution: I've found that even starting with fully charged batteries, they will eventually come out of balance. I charge them individually after three days to top-off the weaker one. My previous attempt did not revive a compromised battery, so I am trying again with different strategy.
Hey how's it going? I just had a quick question. Have u ever heard of someone placing there battery (say a car battery for instance) into an ultrasonic bath and sonicating the sulphated cell back into solution? Do u believe by doing this it would work? Please let me know u thoughts.
Thank u
+Rinaldo Di Meglio Thanks for your question! What an interesting idea..I know I tried something similar with an evaporust solution but did not get any positive results. I did not use ultrasound though but I wonder if it would make much difference. The sulfate and rust is tougher than varnishes ultrasound is usually used for. How were you planning on exposing the plates?
+Battery Renew Thanks for your response and interest! In the lab at work we have sonic baths with capacities of 8 to 10 L, which we use to help dissolve difficult crystal compounds into solution.(they're pretty intense). My ideal was to empty the battery of all the acid and add hot ultra pure water (60 Celsius) and seal it. Then submerge the battery in a bath at 60 Celsius just below the top so not to contaminate. Just sonicate for an hour will heating. Tell me all your thoughts please.
Rinaldo Di Meglio Just got back to my channel to answer you and am wondering if you gave your idea a try? I would think a high powered Ultrasound could knock off sulfate and then possibly shake the plates loose, but you could stop that process before it went too far. I have an ultrasound unit and may take apart a small battery to give it a shot. If it works, the next step would be to create a pendant that could drop into batteries and create the ultrasound effect inside the battery. Very cool idea you have.
Really curious how it worked out for you and will test it myself and create a new video about it.
Thanks!
Hey Brendan, I am getting ready to perform several battery experiments this weekend and film them. I have loads of complex battery problems to solve and make videos about. I have the ultrasonic system ready to go as well.
@@batteryrenew8559
Ahem. Would love to see those videos.
can the bls desulfator destroy a battery, how does the desulfator destroy a battery?
Hi +Ron Stark ,
Any desulfator can cause a battery to shed the lead plates. The more power the desulfator has, the faster this can occur. I learned this the hard way when I started using the Renaissance Radiance Charger/Desulfators plus another high powered desulfator the U.S.A.F. uses. I blew a stack of 6 deep cycle batteries badly by making them shed the outer plates.
I suspect your bls desulfator is not a high powered one and you can leave it run for up to 30 cycles without damage. If a desulfator does not work in 30 cycles, my experience is that it will not work at all.
Battery Renew g
I recently revived a battery left completely drained for months in the winter. It had 4V. It was returned to health with an 18v 40mA charger (AC/DC adaptor). Unless the plates have physically lost material, all batteries can be brought back from the dead.
how long did you leave it on the 18 V power supply? Thanks
@@VladFredK Can't remember. Probably 2 - 3 weeks. To really see the state of the battery, you need a battery analyser that gives your the CCA. With that, you are better able to tell if the battery is reviving. The CCA can continue to go up even if the voltage isn't changing.
@@fungames24 Thank you
if the tool required to repair the item costs more than the item than leave it to the professionals
i have gas power cart other stuff with battery s that not being use are failing
+73 SUPERGLIDE I use my battery restoring systems for keeping my solar power batteries (8 at $120 each) plus my moto batteries (4 of them), tractor and car batteries sulfate free. I have truck batteries that are 6 years old and still register over their rating! I also use some restoring solution to keep the plates hard and resist sulfation. If you want to build your own restorer, there are plans floating around that use an arc welder to provide the voltage spikes and amps - not a good way to go IMHO, but hey - would be a fun project.
it worth in vesting in verse making one from one compaster
you still haven't convinced me not to buy them
73 SUPERGLIDE Hey 73 Superglide! I like your screen name as a long time motorcyclist myself. I fell in love with cycles when I saw an HD sales booth at a fair in Pennsylvania. That blue bike was the most beautiful work of mechanical art I have ever seen.... About being convinced to buy the report or not. I am only pointing out the options for reconditioning batteries. There are just a few good reasons for most people to get into reconditioning in the first place: 1. You own a golf cart or solar power system with a lot of expensive, deep cycle batteries. Spending a few bucks on the report can save about 20 times the cost of the report just on your one set of batteries. Over everyone's lifetime, we are likely to spend thousands on batteries, so it could be smart to learn about reconditioning them, but definitely not that critical unless you are in heavy industry or something. 2. If you deal with a lot of batteries in cars, tractors, motorcycles, power tools, computers, etc..Then you spend a lot of money over time on several smaller batteries.
If you only have a motorcycle and one car...don't bother with the report unless you are just curious or your batteries happen to cost more than about $100 each. Then it could be worth it. A lot of cities have places you can buy reconditioned batteries already. I was one of those battery resellers. My company sold thousands of reconditioned batteries including for cars, trucks, RV's, loads of golf carts, sweepers, and fork lifts (these batteries weigh 1500 lbs + and cost many thousands of dollars).
Since I had a battery business, I spent 10 hours a day, 6 days a week reconditioning batteries and experimenting. Batteries are super interesting when you consider what they do.
I bought every battery reconditioning device I could find from multiple countries. One of my conditioners was directly from an air force base where it was used for jets, helicopters, tanks, you name it. That reconditioner almost scared me it was so powerful....the problem was it blew out batteries as often as it restored them. Plus I had to manually tweak all the settings to get it to work. But it could handle fork lift batteries easily. Takes major juice to do that.
The report goes into some clever ways to not spend a lot of money, use simple methods to get more or less the same result as my $3k plus battery desulfators...
That is my very long answer to your question...get the report if you have several batteries to work on, or at least one expensive one. Otherwise, just buy a reconditioned battery and enjoy!
What about a Optimate Smart charger. It's meant to help charge and desulphate a battery.
I have a 6 yrs old jumper power pac that hardly gets used.
I charged it with the standard supplied charger and the voltage was 12.6 v.
I then used my Optimate 6 smart charger on the jumper leads over night and the voltage has increased to 13.1 v . ;).
BTW I keep my motor bike on charge on this charger when I don't use it and the battery has lasted 5 yrs so far as opposed to roughly 3 yrs that it normally lasts.
Hi Ben, Smart chargers are a good investment. They will adjust charge rates from high levels above 5 amps or 10, to trickle charges in the 1.5 amp range. Even with trickle charging, I recommend using a desulphating or equalizing cycle ever 20 charges or so. Also, adding some Battery Equaliser each year will prevent plates from shedding and shorting out cells.
As you like but I share my Opinion
Kind of shady deception, acting like the cheap ones aren't a good solution, but the expensive ones are, but there's a cheap way to pay you to tell us what you could have in the video. Poor form. It's a video that is spam itself.
to much talk wasting time. go directly to the point...
a $12 desulfator/charger has saved me over $500 on car and lawn equipment batteries.
Awesome to hear that! You just nailed the reason why I got into battery reconditioning in the first place. With just one successful reconditioning or desulfating, I had more than paid for most desulfators. I ended up buying expensive rejuvenators and making a business out of it, but sometimes the small, low cost desulfator/charges will restore car, lawn or moto batteries to like new condition. Well done Josh!
Battery Renew I'm not trying to make this sound like a infomercial but I was skeptical when I bought the desulfator and did not expect the success rate I got out of it if it was to work at all. There have been 2 batteries I haven't been able to save, one because of physical damage so I sent it for recycling, the other had contaminated acid, I could probably replace the acid and recover it.
The reason I ordered it was because in the fall I had put a new $120 battery in my truck, stupid me let the truck sit until spring with the accessories on, didn't check or start it once. You could jump start the truck, run it for a hour, kill it, immediately try to restart and the battery couldn't start it. I figured since I was blowing money on expensive batteries, I might as well Google some tricks for recovering batteries. I read about Epsom salt first and didn't like the idea of adding anything to the battery chemistry, then I came across electric desulfators. If it didn't work, what was another $12 after I had blown $120? After just 8 hours it could start the truck again, I left it on another week and never had a problem with it until I sold the truck.
Hey Josh Biship, sounds like a realistic scenario I experienced many times. Any batter lead acid battery except for some versions of AGMs, will almost certainly come back fully from the conditions you describe.
When people brought me batteries like you described - relatively new with one serious power drain episode - I knew I could return the battery 100% like new.
Glad it worked out well for you!!
Battery Renew z
What is the brand of that desulfator?
Check your link please. There is no information on the site. just a lame video. Thankyou
Hi LestonDR! The link leads to a video that sells the battery reconditioning guide. While the video is hokey and definitely sells the guide, it is an engineering level document that took loads of time to produce and saves hundreds if not thousands of dollars in battery costs.
To give you an example of how much that roughly 40 page guide has saved me, here are a few of the batteries I reconditioned with the systems, designs, and processes from the guide:
12 deep cycle power station batteries that went dead after being on my barn shelf for only 6 months and would not take a charge. These are super expensive, industrial quality, AGM batteries that were not supposed to fail for years - but they were dead and not charging. Each battery costs over $300. Using the system for AGM batteries, I reconditioned all 12 and got them back to full rating, then sold them. The guide made me about $3200 from those batteries.
I have also restored countless power tool batteries at roughly $50-$120 (the 20 volt Li) each using the system for NiMH/NiCD/LiM cells.
Most importantly, I have been able to keep my solar power batteries going for more than double the average life span while maintaining their full AmpHr capacity despite using them below 50% capacity frequently. A new set costs about $4000.
I could on about all the motorcycle batteries, etc., but the bottom line is I got a load of value from the knowledge in the guide, plus my own experiences I share here. It may not be worth it for you, but for those of us with way too many expensive batteries going bad, the guide is a minor investment that yields a fortune in return - guaranteed.
Yup.. There is no free into that.
Its not miliohms but mega ohm dude
DO NOT SPEND A PENNY to this scammer for his so called recondition battery method. IT IS A SCAM.
SPAM!
Scam. He's on commission! Talking rubbish this man.
Bait and switch video, don’t waste your time.
bfffffff no thing usefull