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How to Adjust Tractor Three Point Stabilizers
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- čas přidán 19. 08. 2024
- I had a request from a viewer for a video about how to adjust the three point stabilizer bars on a tractor. I'm more than glad to supply that, it's something that you need to do to protect your tires, your tractor three point and your implement.
First we need to discuss what stabilizers do. They're there to keep the implement from swinging from side to side when driving in a field or down the road, and to keep the three point arms away from the tires. On some tractors (the one in the video isn't the best example, but it's lower arms did touch the tire) the three point travel from side-to-side allows the edge of it to contact the tires. When it does you'll hear a pretty loud noise, every time a lug goes around it actually hits the implement and tries to lift it up, then drops it when it gets past the lug. As crazy as it seems, I saw a customer who bought a brand new tractor and failed to adjust his stabilizers and nearly ruined a new set of tires, chewing the inside corners off each lug. How he ran it without figuring out something was wrong I don't know because it had to make a tremendous racket. Surprisingly, the tractor company bought him a new set of rear tires but told us to tell him to NEVER let that happen again, that was the last set of tires they were buying.
Most of the early tractors had either no stabilizers, or a set of chains that limiters the movement of the lower lift arms. The ones with no stabilizers were positioned where they couldn't touch the tires (which limited) the ability to get them wide enough to hook up an implement), the others used chains to limit how far out the arms could go, stopping them before contact with the tires.
Moist of today's tractors have one of two forms of stabilizers. Telescopic stabilizers use a bar with a sleeve around it and holes through both and by putting a pin through a hole you're set and the implement won't go anywhere.
The stabilizers my viewer requested the training on were probably the other stabilizers, which use a turnbuckle to get the implement where you want it, with a jam nut against the turnbuckle to keep everything tight and for vibration to loosening everything up.
It's a little hassle to have to adjust stabilizers even time you hook up an implement but it sure saves on tire wear, and damage to the tires, and/or the implement, by it swinging around wildly behind you.
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Thank you for taking the time to explain it this way. As a single woman working 60 acres alone, I've broken stabilizers by not having them set properly. Trying to avoid it happening again, and I think your video was super helpful. My tractor has the turnbuckle type of stabilizers.
I hope you keep making videos for those of us who didn't grow up in the country, are too hard headed to ask for help, and aren't mechanically inclined. Now if you just had a diy air conditioner to install so I could avoid this Texas heat while on the tractor you'd be my hero!
Finally, somebody has done a how-to video on stabilizers that involve TURNBUCKLES! Thank you. You should add the term 'turnbuckle' to your tags so people can find it that way, too. Your video never came up before; I only found it by sheer luck this time.
Mike, you tightened that first jam nut with the crescent wrench BACKWARD. The second one you tightened correctly. The strength is not in the jaw but in the steel....Probably not a big deal on a turnbuckle but back on the farm In Iowa, dad would give you a stern talking! Great video, thanks.
Same here, wking wells and pumps. You just want to through a sloppy Adj wrench in the trash.
Thanks Mike another good video for beginners. That includes me. I am 73 years old and have been driving tractors since I was 10. Your videos help everyone be safe. Keep up the good work.
Seemed like great straight forward information to the point and I appreciate the upload. Thank you. Some people don't appreciate anything now days
I didn't notice on your tractor and you didn't mention it, but on my tractor, height matters. I have to raise the arms all the way up before adjusting. If I do it down low, the chains get tighter as I raise the arms up. When I lower them back down into position, the chains are a little loose, but not bad. The first time I adjusted them low, thankfully, I stalled the hydraulics and nothing got broke. Now I watch for it. Keep up the great videos!
Good point. I really hadn't noticed that before but I've seen stabilizer designs that could cause a problem that way. Thanks for bringing that up!
that happens when the chains are not connected in the same line with arms pins on rear axle; or the holes for the chains are worn out and connection point is out of that line. Tightening when lifting shouldn't be a "feature"
Thanks Mike. Great video, designed to educate the common man (like me). I appreciate your humble, straightforward presentation style. It, combined with your obvious knowledge, made me your newest subscriber.
Dude, like wow. Now I know what is missing from my 4'th hand tractor. I saw something in the manuals but couldnt tell it was turnbuckles. Found them right away with proper name. TYTYTY
This is exactly what I needed and you did it in less than 3 minutes. Well done.
Same here.
Same for me!
That looked like the only way to do it without jury rigging something... glad you did this video so I'm not out there welding together a nuclear powered doo-dad to keep my arms off the tractor tires! Many thanks - simple, to the point, easy to understand, subscribed!
There are indeed stabilizers for older Deere tractors. They are steel blocks that mount on both sides of the PTO housing that have two different thicknesses, depending which side of the block is turned. These work as spacers. This will keep your implement from swinging side to side as much, and keep the arms out of your tires (only when mounted to an implement). But no fine adjustment.
Correct.
That's right. The sway blocks are missing from the J.D. and were used starting with the 730 series. You used spacers between blocks and housing to achieve correct sway. Worked great. ******** Also Tractor Mike forgot to warn that you must slowly raise the arms and make sure chains don't get too tight in full raised position. Expensive parts can get broke if you raise 3 pt. without checking first.
Geez, I used to own a 1968 Massey Ferguson 165 and it had round solid bars with threaded rods to act as stabilizers. You could adjust them to center the implement on the tractor's center line. That's exactly what I did to center a Four Row Monosem MS vacuum planter on mine. Tractors with cabs sat on my farm while I precision planted. When you're planting onions you want to be able to get on and off the tractor easily to check if a shoe is clogged or if a spray nozzle is clogged, which it never was, but you do it if you're a perfectionist. As far as these chain and turnbuckle stabilizers, they only come on cheap tractors. If you need absolute stability get a tractor with tube stabilisers that screw in and out. I'm looking at this tractor, I don't know who makes it but it is about as cheap as you can get. GET A SOLID TUBE TELESCOPIC STABILIZER KIT AND BE HAPPY!
You described the stabilizer chain's function to keep the lift arms from hitting the tires. That is the function of the check chains. Stabilizer bars keep your implement centered and moving from side to side. If you want your implement to move from side to side but need to check the travel so you don't hit the tires, like when pulling a plow, you use check chains. That old Ford tractor you showed looked like a thousand series tractor because it was blue. What you showed on that Ford were check chains. That tractor came with solid stabilizer bars that attach to stabilizer pins on one end and to the lower link implement pins on the other. Ford lift arms do not have holes in the lift arm for a stabilizer chain, though some people drill holes in them so they can attach stabilizer chains. If you are using your chains solely to prevent your lift arms from hitting your tires, you are using them as check chains, not stabilizer chains.
pat cheatham
The check chains on the old blue tractor prevent your lift arms from swinging towards your tires. You might have to remove links depending on the height of your lift arms.
For stabilizer chains you loosen them up so they allow movement, but still keep the arms from hitting the tires. But, unlike check chains, stabilizer chains must have an implement attached to the lift arms to limit the lift arm movement. With stabilizer chains the left chains prevent the right lift arm from hitting the right tire as long as you have bound the lift arms together with an implement. If you don't have an implement attached, then you use a bungee cord and tractor Mike had a bungee cord on his lift arms for that reason.
TheDadPenfield ok good now I don't have to type this lol
what implements do I use and not use the stabalizer bar on my ford? to keep it from swaying? on the ground lock it solid and in the ground let it sway?
I have a 601 workmaster, and I added a second bar so it could stop swaying to the left and when I lifted the 3pt up it bent the hell out of the new bar while the old bar stayed intact. I hadn’t run into this on my 8n so I’m not sure how to fix this
Thanks Mike, I needed that quick lesson
Thanks Mike! I wondered why my box blade wasn't centered behind the wheels right!
Thanks tractor Mike! Finally a good video
SO HELPFUL!! Thank you so much for this.. LOVE your channel .. Videos SO WELL PRESENTED! You are a gifted natural teacher. It's like Kahn Academy for tractors.
Thanks for this video. It was exactly what I needed.
THANKS! You are the only person to FINALLY give the the knowledge I needed.
very good video i need a set of those mike ;keep up the good work'
Thanks Mike! Buying an old used tractor, I have several different piece-milled contraptions on my machine. These turnbuckles look efficient. I may scrap what I have and start over.
Mike, you missed some stabilizers from the past. My old 1959 John Deere 430 had a separate stabilizer that was like a "U" shape at one end connected to a "Y" shape. (Imagine the "U" in the saddle of the "Y" ).
A bar connected that stabilizer to the tractor just above the PTO. Ford used an outside bar on one side that (sometimes both sides) to control implement sway.
Thanks for responding to my comment and posting this video. Very helpful and informative as always!
Thank you sir
Very helpful! Thanks Mike!
Thanks for making that video Mike. Very informative as always!
+JT the Toy Tester Thank you JT and thanks for watching!
Every video helps Mike . . . thank you!
+USNERDOC Thank you Doc. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Mike. Would love to know how to adjust that bale spike with no hydraulic upper link. Keep up the good work!
sit it on something, lower/raise, set it
Thank you mike
Helpful and practical. Thanks.
Great video Mike
Dropping another LIKE on your video Mike! Watching and Supporting!
Damn that spike looks scary!. Great video Mike!
+The Plow Guys I fully expect to die by not watching where I'm walking and impaling myself on one of those. Not a good way to go, but appropriate perhaps.
So if the threaded turnbuckles' center section also telescopes with pins you'd have the best of both worlds
Excellent Mike thank you
+Peter Smith You're welcome, thanks for watching!
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR GREAT VIDEOS. I HAVE A FORD 4000 SU, WHICH I HAVE TRIED DIFFERENT TYPES OF STABILIZER BARS, STABILIZER CHAINS. THE BARS, LET BE RAISE & LOWER MY HEAVY BUSH HOG, BUT ARE A "PAIN", BECAUSE MY DIFFERENT IMPLEMENTS VARY IN WIDTH. THE CHAINS, WITH THE JAM NUT, WILL NOT LET ME RAISE MY BUSH HOG, ETC. TO IT'S HIGHEST LIFT. I DON'T WANT TO HURT HYDRAULICS, OR DAMAGE THE ARMS. CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT TO DO, I WOULD APPRECIATE IT MOST GREATLY. THANKS.........
My right ear is lonely :) j/k, another great installment. Thanks for the videos.
+EveryCitizen I'm trying to fix that. Our local Radio Shack was one of the ones that closed and the closest ones don't have the plug I need to go mono. I'll eventually get it done. Please apologize to your right ear for me in the interim.
GREAT VIDEO
+bud moore (buckshot32000) Thanks Bud and thanks for watching!
My Tractor (1982 IH 260A) have non adjustable chains. Box blade does not seem to be centered and swings side to side. It looks like I have to ADD these adjustable turnbuckles. Thanks for the Info.
Hi I'm tiring to put a snow / grade blade on my three point on the MF 1739E. I have the backhoe removed. The brackets of course stay. I can't find a place to hook my stabilizers. Do you think they sacrificed my connection points for the backhoe brackets ? Where should I hook them?
Mike - I have a 7’ Enorossi sickle bar mower and am using it on a 65-HP tractor. The lower 3-point arms are set at equal heights from the ground; however, the mower leans quite a bit to the bar side when raised. Is this normal and acceptable or should I adjust the lower arms to level the mower even though one arm will be about 3” higher than the other arm? Thank you.
Tricia, I think that's normal. As long as the bar is level, you should be fine.
This was exactly what I needed to know. Thank you. Do you tighten them so there is no swing at all, or do you leave a little bit of play? Thanks again.
Tom, I generally like to leave a very, very small bit of slack if I can. I have the telescopic stabilizers, it's impossible to get them completely tight, but if I had turnbuckles I'd leave maybe 1/4" slack.
Mike: great stuff...I have a 1967 JD 2020 that needs your help. As shown in this video, there are several older tractors with no stabilizers. What do you suggest? I need to add something besides a rope or a bungee cord. My new box blade is heavy and swings too much.
I don't know of any kits to add stabilizers. I'd be trying to "blacksmith" something on there to keep everything from swinging.
Could you give any advice on setting a plow for a wide wheel stance tractor. With stabilizers set as far to the right as I can get them, I am still leaving a spot of unturned soil. Wheels are set in as far as they will go as well. Tractor is a Mahindra 4025 4X4.
The second type (turnbuckle), is it cheaper to buy? It's not like the telescopic version is drastically more expensive to produce, I guess. But the turnbuckle seem inferior to the telescopic. And those have been around since the 60ies (have it on a MF 175). So why would anyone want the turnbuckle variant?
+subwarpspeed That's a really good point. You wouldn't think the telescopic would cost much more. Most tractor companies offer deluxe tractors with telescopic and basic (cheaper) tractors and they lack a bunch of options to get the price down (see my video-Two Identical Sized Tractor, Why One is $3000 cheaper), so it may have more to do with marketing than anything. If I were a tractor company I'd offer a kit to convert the turnbuckles to telescopic and charge a hefty price for it, but most don't. It's a mystery. Same way with a mechanical linkage at the back of the tractor to raise and lower the three point from behind. When I first saw that option 25 years ago I figured by now all tractors would have it and they don't.
Crap my John deere tractor looks exactly like the one in the video it doesn't have a tensor but I wonder if I can adjust one to it.. anyone know?
Hey mike great channel - question i am suffering really bad with undulating soil when using the rake on the three way. Its a five foot rake i have it set about an inch lower than the level when at bottom stroke. I drive slowly through the sand yeah we live here in oz and the soil here is mostly sand we can grow things in it and we do but i need the rake for weeding and leaf gathering. I also try to use it for firebreak maintenance but like i said i keep getting these sand waves everywhere rather than nice neat flat raked areas...ideas please?
Waves from the tines of the rake or waves from the tractor driving over uneven terrain and digging/lifting the rake up with the three point? You might experiment with a field roller. That might work in sandy conditions to level everything out.
@@TractorMike will try that thanks for reply, will report back with results merry christmas
Mike, i have telescoping stabilizers on my Massey Ferguson and a Bush Hog brand bush hog. No matter how I adjust them, out/in, they hit my tires, especially on turns and on inclines. It seems to have gotten worse the last few times I cut. Which direction, pulling them out or pushing them in, stops that?
Bill, email a picture of the stabilizers and the model number of the tractor to mike@asktractormike.com and we'll see if we can't figure it out.
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I have an international b 414 tractor and i need to install stablizer bars i tried tractor supply to no avail is there another supply store's that possibility of having them i live in southeast Kansas.
I don't think you'll find something like that at a farm supply store like that. You have several Case dealers in your area, you might try them, but I don't have high hopes a part like that would still be available because of the age of the tractor. Here's a link to the Case IH parts lookup: partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr57566ag58303. Youngberg's Supply in Verona, Missouri has an IH salvage yard and they might be able to help you. Here's their number: (417) 498-6511. Good luck!
I break at least one of my New Holland Stabilizer bars about every 10 hours. At $95 each, it's getting unbearably expensive. What am I doing wrong?
Larry Watkins. ..I own a New Holland workmaster 50, and I just got rid of the telescopic stabilizers. They were just too sloppy and noisy. Installed some turnbuckles that came off an 82 kubota. Had to modify it some, but not too difficult. Such an improvement.
We are not all as smart as you Luther. Maybe you should upload some videos.
Left ear.
If you need to tell them that, they don't need a tractor.
If these muppets can't figure this out themselves, they should not be operating tractors