I appreciate the review and comparison of both pistol grip airbrushes. Especially as pleased to see the actual gun in work and how in-depth you go with showing how they compare when painting a piece of plastic and showing the issues you have had with the guns.
Will, I have found that the way the needle is polished really counts a lot, your Iwata may have a better polishing finish out of the factory that not only make it collect less paint over time but also makes it more predictable, good news is that you can polish your needle to a mirror finish of just about any airbrush yourself!, and get much better results, I have done it with a really cheep Chinese Iwata copy and it sprays actually decent now, of course I can´t spray hot things trough it due to the simple rubber seals but for water based paints it performs very close to my AAA airbrushes. try to pick some very fine water sanding paper and some metal polish and refine / polish de needle (the challenge is to do that without bending the needle) that was just a quick tip of mine, best regards!
I have been using a Grex for a few years now. I have nerve damage and can’t hold a normal airbrush. If you keep using it look into getting the customizing grip. It molds to your hand and gives a better grip and a bigger handle. Also I have found the best PSI is around 10 for my paint and around 20 for the fan nozzle. I love mine I can continue to build and paint now.
If the Grex has a wider needle shaft and (from what I can see on the screen) the length of taper to the point is slightly shorter then the angle of the taper must be steeper. A steeper angle means that the hole at the nozzle will open more for the same amount of needle travel. This combined with other factors such as lever ratios of the trigger may mean a bigger hole opening faster, hence greater air flow quicker on the Grex.
I’m going to guess it’s the nozzle size not so much the needle but that’s just a guess. Thanks for the info between the two, I just ordered the iwata before watching your video 🤷🏼♂️ but they both seem to be awesome airbrushes.
I’ve been using the grex set up for almost 2 years. It took me a while to get used to the pistol grip but I enjoy it. We use the traditional style in the Andrea work shops. So it’s hard to get back to ha ha. But love the Grex trigger pull. The compressor is quiet af, but it vibrates like a mofo on smooth surfaces 🤣
Thank you Will , I find this hobby and the tools we use in to be really a personal thing thus we have people hating one brand or another as some have stated in your comments section. First how can the brush you use be Crap when in your hands it helps you create top shelf projects showing it depends on the person using it. There is now best brand or easy way around finding what you like there is only first hand experience. Thanks for your honest opinion on this subject and keep them coming Will.
You probably dont care but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can watch all of the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my gf these days =)
I know this is an older video Will, but I do have to say the NEO's do have a much softer or restricted feeling air flow in them compared to other airbrushes. I wouldn't say it's their air valves exactly but more so the design of the inner workings of the housing the air flows through. They just feels so much softer at any PSI you set your compressor to. I've played around with testing other airbrushes I have and no matter what PSI I put them at, the NEO's just always hit my skin softer than any of the other airbrushes. I thought perhaps it was just the air valve itself, but I've swapped out the air valves and tried the NEO's valves on other airbrushes that fit them and there was 0 change in performance. I've put the valves from others that flow really fast and hard on the NEO's and they still pushed air soft. It's just the internal design of the NEO's that they have a bit more restriction of how much pressure is let out the body of the airbrush compared to others. They're actually really nice for softer work you need more control. I also have a suspicion it's because the NEO's are priced and sold more as an entry level airbrush in a lot of bog box hobby stores, they made them work a little softer to make them a little fool proof for first time users to get into airbrushing. I've known more people who get into airbrushing love their NEO's and go back to them when trying out other airbrushes because they just work easier. The only time I found them lacking was in situations I need to really blast a lot of paint on and do lots of work priming. Then I will switch to a higher flow airbrush I can get the job done faster. But NEO's are my go to when doing soft delicate work because they feel much more restricted and paint flow is more controllable that way than others.
Great video. I've been looking for a trigger style airbrush. I have an Iwata HP-CS but it kills my hands. I am bouncing between the 2 you mentioned in the video. Hard to decide.
This has been my airbrush for 2 years now , for the issue with your iwata I just posted a video on my channel going over how I resolved the issue with my Tg3 ** for fine line I use the grex air valve on the end of crank it down where no air coming out then turn it up bit by bit as a result I can sign name just like a pen try using the air valve ONE last thing I have never used the 2.mm needle always been 3.mm
I'd say that the 'barfing' condition is the result of the trigger design. The trigger moves a very short distance between the air valve opening, and, the paint flowing. A longer trigger, measured from the pivot, would go a long way to correcting this condition.
Watching the video closely a couple of things are happening. First it could be there is a small air pocket occurring when paint is initially put into the airbrush and it just needs to blow past that pocket on the initial shot. As Will demonstrated it only occurred on the initial shot of an otherwise clean airbrush prior to use. Also, another aspect is it appeared that Will was using a flat paint which due to it's "coarse" nature may inhibit the fluid nozzle slightly at first. A gloss will tend to flow and have a lower viscosity as well. The Grex does have a longer taper and corresponding fluid nozzle that this "air pocket" could be occurring and causing the problem with the initial shot of paint. For me personally I tend to shoot onto paper towel first when starting to airbrush or changing from one color to another before addressing the model. Granted Will is not thinning with his MRP Paints but most paints do require thinning so I'm evaluating the paint performance before addressing the model itself. So if the airbrush has this tendency on the initial shot of paint, it'll never exhibit a problem on the model itself with a quick test before model application. As to the trigger design it has a good travel before paint expels. It's a 2 stage trigger in which the first stage sets the air. Then a second spring engages which can be felt, after which paint expels. It's progressive, more pull, more paint. When the second stage engages it feels like a slight hitch. It could be Will is pulling just a little too much too quickly and getting the spurt of paint. After that he seems to have positive control without further issue. I like to compare it to finding the friction point on a stick shift car with a clutch. Once you find that point, its just subtle increases and decreases of finger pull to expel more or less paint. It does take a little time to adapt to a pistol grip airbrush from a traditional style but once you get the hang of it it, it's very comfortable. Also, there is no risk of getting a spurt of paint when air is initiated like that of traditional style airbrushes. It really comes in handy doing German Mottled camo and similar.
I think that your iwatas are used more than the grex and you have more of feel for the neo brush. I want to get a grex as I just need a better air brush. Thanks dude 👍🏻
Regarding the Iwata's needles sticking, Paul Budzik blames it on Iwata's blue airbrush lube... it dries out and causes the sticking problem if left unused for some time. In one of his recent videos he says he uses Triflow instead without any problems.
The needle sticking can happen on any airbrush. It's usually due to paint getting in and behind the packing seal and not getting cleaned out on a regular basis. A pipe cleaner (a real one, not a craft pipe cleaner) with some lacquer thinner pushed from the front of the airbrush body, past the paint port and into the packing seal area will usually maintain the area enough that needles won't stick. It doesn't need to be done all the time, maybe one in 10 times the airbrush is used but it also depends on how often the end user does a thorough cleaning. It's just preventative maintenance and the problem is less likely to occur.
Bryant Dunbar is correct. I have a Neo and HP-C. and the same thing occurs. After you cleaned the needle the paint residue had to come from inside the airbrush. The seal Bryant refers to is the culprit. Prior to a session of spraying I habitually give the needle a wipe.
I just bought a Iwata TRN1 and both the Iwata and the Grex look so close in shape, does anyone have issues with the standard mounts to hold the airbrushes not fitting these airbrushes well? how do you deal with that? Thanks.
Thanks for the review. I took Grex's airbrush class at the IPMS National Convention last Aug. using Tamiya for panel line shading and basic camo on a little Spitfire The two stage trigger set-up with the air coming on before the paint starts to flow with a further pull of the trigger took some getting used to. I got pretty good results in my limited time with the airbrush in class. Even the Tamiya wanted to "spit" a little on occasion. Other times, I could start spraying directly on the model with complete control. Clearly, technique, paint, and luck dependent :) I bought a brush with a 0.2 and 0.3 needle using a discount coupon I got from the class. It made the class essentially free. I have yet to put it through its paces like you have. The moldable hand grip was talked about positively in class. A review of their customizable grips would be helpful if you ever get the chance. Thanks for all you do. It truly is a great help.
Thank you for posting about the IPMS Nationals workshop and the feedback. I will be conducting the workshops again at the 2019 IPMS Nationals in Chattanooga.
@@bryantdunbar3476 Thank you for an excellent class. In person demonstrations are second to none. The tasks were initially challenging but accomplished in due course with results that overcame self-impossed limitations and instilled a greater sense of confidence and satisfaction in airbrushing. You gave me that push and sense of "I think I can" I needed to keep at it. Thanks again.
@@homunculous007 It was my pleasure and thank you for the further feedback. I like what you say "I think I can". That's the whole intent of the workshop. Whether you use the techniques we did together or you find something else that works better, it doesn't matter. Its all about having confidence and going from there. I hope you continue to advance your airbrushing skills. All the best.
@@bryantdunbar3476 The TG2 and 3 have proven to be outstanding tools. With the correct thinning (approx. 40% Mr. Color Leveling Thinner with Tamiya paint) and air pressure generally lower than expected (12 psi), a very fine, delicate, and controlled spray pattern can be achieved. No "spitting" of any kind as in the beginning. Very easy to clean with the back flush method. A joy to use. Thank you again for the lesson and encouragement.
homunculous007 what’s the difference between the 2 and 3 I’m a beginner and really need help in making this decision I’m leaning towards the 2 only because I’m thinking it comes with more but I have no clue what I’m doing.
And how do you measure the size when all needles have a point??? of course its something about the angle, otherwise it should only be the nozle that was different and not the needles.
It moves the paint faster becuase you are pushing the same pressure through a smaller nozzle, so the exit velocity of the from the air brush is faster.
I am so glad you are reviewing the Grx trigger grip. I have hand and finger issues and you pull no punches in your reviews. I do wish you could have mentioned the weight of the airbrush since I do better with something that has some weight to it so I can feel that I have something in my hand. I so far feel like the Grex is not for me. It would take too long for to get that nozzle off and on. I think it would make a great beginner airbrush for people with no issues.
To the extent it is helpful to you and others I weighed the AB's I own: Binks “Wren” 63 grams My first AB purchased 50+ years ago Badger 20/20 “Sotar” 78 grams Badger 155 “Anthem” 83 grams Siphon feed Badger 105 “Patriot” 88 grams Harder & Steenback “Infinity” 92 grams ABEST “Q5” 106 grams Inexpensive Chinese AB IWATA HP-C Plus 108 grams GREX TG 227 grams all of these are Gravity Feed except the Wren and Badger 155
The Grex Tritium has a nice weight to it. Most customers and those that try the airbrush out find the weight is positive and comes through the hand rather than being front or back heavy. As to the fluid nozzle, most quality airbrushes have a threaded fluid nozzle to ensure perfect alignment with the needle. This is a critical aspect of their interaction. The Grex fluid nozzle is stainless steel as aposed to many contemporary airbrushes which use brass, so it's pretty durable. Also the Grex fluid nozzles are a bit bigger in physical size to that of other airbrushes in which it almost takes a magnifying glass to see them. To change from one fluid nozzle to another only takes a minute or so. With all due respect to Will he does have some dexterity issues with his fingers which does make manipulation of these parts a little more challenging but that will be the case for just about any quality airbrush and small parts. A pistol grip airbrush is more intuitive and easy to learn but the Grex Tritium is an excellent tool for both beginner and and advance airbrush artists. Will hasn't even discussed the fan cap capability but hopefully he'll address that in the near future.
I have 2 grexit tg3 and I haven't had any problem with the airbrush. And the Burst of air at the beginning thats why always start off the project when I start air brushing. I was thinking that the grex airbrush would be a lot better for you than the neo iwata that you are using you just have to get use to how they operate .I had 3 of the neo iwata that a vender gave me when they came out and I hate them with a Passion . But for what we do in this hobby I don't think we need a .2mm Needle in this hobby I no I have never had to have one in over 35 years I have over 20 air brushes and every single one of them operates and sprays differently.and Each one takes time to get familiar with how it operates.
Talk about not learning from your mistakes, you said you smashed your new Grex because it fell on the back side of the needle due to you not wanting to take 3 seconds to replace the back gaurd, then you get a new one and use it in the same manner? I guess if you don’t have to pay for it why bother, easy come, easy go.👎🏻
well, dumbskank, some of us use them this way regularly because the back piece is just in the way of frequent needle removal for cleaning. maybe if you built more than one snap-tite kit per year you'd understand.
with that spatter on the models, perhaps it is just the sprayer is too close to the work!, with large automotive spray guns you need to have an adequate distance between nozzle and job, as the spray pattern has an 'ideal' distance, for best atomisation, and layering of the paint onto the surface, just like the multiple machine guns on a spitfire, they were 'tuned' to put all the lead out onto one spot at a specific distance away.
Neo are CRAP! INeo are not Iwata even if the name is on the box and brush...Buy real air brushes like the CS and Ch and above models you will be amazed
squidlips6661 - I bought a Neo about 4 yrs ago and I've not had a problem with it. Yes I have other airbrushes including my fave, the H&S Infinity CR Plus 2in1 (superb). Yes I have heard from others that they have had minor issues with their Neo, so I guess at that price point you'll get that variance in quality/fit & finish etc. But overall, very happy with my particular Neo. I've heard the same from other modellers too.
The Neo is a real airbrush...no it is not made BY Iwata but it does bear their name and their standards of quality etc. Will it be as good as an Iwata made in Japan? No, of course not. But as far as the "cheaper" airbrushes go the Neo is probably the best option there is. Far better than the cheaper Chinese clones.
You say that like it's a fact, instead of one of the many opinions available. But if that's your truth, then cool. You're more than welcome to go find another channel that you don't have to pay for.
I appreciate the review and comparison of both pistol grip airbrushes. Especially as pleased to see the actual gun in work and how in-depth you go with showing how they compare when painting a piece of plastic and showing the issues you have had with the guns.
Will, I have found that the way the needle is polished really counts a lot, your Iwata may have a better polishing finish out of the factory that not only make it collect less paint over time but also makes it more predictable, good news is that you can polish your needle to a mirror finish of just about any airbrush yourself!, and get much better results, I have done it with a really cheep Chinese Iwata copy and it sprays actually decent now, of course I can´t spray hot things trough it due to the simple rubber seals but for water based paints it performs very close to my AAA airbrushes. try to pick some very fine water sanding paper and some metal polish and refine / polish de needle (the challenge is to do that without bending the needle) that was just a quick tip of mine, best regards!
Thanks for a balanced and very thoughtful product assessment and comparison. Thinking of getting the Grex TG3... yes.
I have been using a Grex for a few years now. I have nerve damage and can’t hold a normal airbrush. If you keep using it look into getting the customizing grip. It molds to your hand and gives a better grip and a bigger handle.
Also I have found the best PSI is around 10 for my paint and around 20 for the fan nozzle. I love mine I can continue to build and paint now.
If the Grex has a wider needle shaft and (from what I can see on the screen) the length of taper to the point is slightly shorter then the angle of the taper must be steeper. A steeper angle means that the hole at the nozzle will open more for the same amount of needle travel. This combined with other factors such as lever ratios of the trigger may mean a bigger hole opening faster, hence greater air flow quicker on the Grex.
I’m going to guess it’s the nozzle size not so much the needle but that’s just a guess. Thanks for the info between the two, I just ordered the iwata before watching your video 🤷🏼♂️ but they both seem to be awesome airbrushes.
I’ve been using the grex set up for almost 2 years. It took me a while to get used to the pistol grip but I enjoy it. We use the traditional style in the Andrea work shops. So it’s hard to get back to ha ha. But love the Grex trigger pull. The compressor is quiet af, but it vibrates like a mofo on smooth surfaces 🤣
Thank you Will , I find this hobby and the tools we use in to be really a personal thing thus we have people hating one brand or another as some have stated in your comments section. First how can the brush you use be Crap when in your hands it helps you create top shelf projects showing it depends on the person using it. There is now best brand or easy way around finding what you like there is only first hand experience. Thanks for your honest opinion on this subject and keep them coming Will.
I like your channel i have issues with my hands and the trigger style is only one i like
I’ve been using a Grex for about a year and love it!
You probably dont care but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can watch all of the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my gf these days =)
@Finley Quinton yup, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since november myself :D
@Finley Quinton Yup, I've been watching on InstaFlixxer for years myself =)
I have the TRN, since I started using NeedleJuice lube I havn't had it stick once.
I know this is an older video Will, but I do have to say the NEO's do have a much softer or restricted feeling air flow in them compared to other airbrushes. I wouldn't say it's their air valves exactly but more so the design of the inner workings of the housing the air flows through. They just feels so much softer at any PSI you set your compressor to. I've played around with testing other airbrushes I have and no matter what PSI I put them at, the NEO's just always hit my skin softer than any of the other airbrushes. I thought perhaps it was just the air valve itself, but I've swapped out the air valves and tried the NEO's valves on other airbrushes that fit them and there was 0 change in performance. I've put the valves from others that flow really fast and hard on the NEO's and they still pushed air soft. It's just the internal design of the NEO's that they have a bit more restriction of how much pressure is let out the body of the airbrush compared to others. They're actually really nice for softer work you need more control. I also have a suspicion it's because the NEO's are priced and sold more as an entry level airbrush in a lot of bog box hobby stores, they made them work a little softer to make them a little fool proof for first time users to get into airbrushing. I've known more people who get into airbrushing love their NEO's and go back to them when trying out other airbrushes because they just work easier. The only time I found them lacking was in situations I need to really blast a lot of paint on and do lots of work priming. Then I will switch to a higher flow airbrush I can get the job done faster. But NEO's are my go to when doing soft delicate work because they feel much more restricted and paint flow is more controllable that way than others.
Great video. I've been looking for a trigger style airbrush. I have an Iwata HP-CS but it kills my hands. I am bouncing between the 2 you mentioned in the video. Hard to decide.
Tamiya make a .2mm pistol grip brush which can do very fine detail. 🙂 Great video, appricate your indepth Reviews.
This has been my airbrush for 2 years now , for the issue with your iwata I just posted a video on my channel going over how I resolved the issue with my Tg3 ** for fine line I use the grex air valve on the end of crank it down where no air coming out then turn it up bit by bit as a result I can sign name just like a pen try using the air valve ONE last thing I have never used the 2.mm needle always been 3.mm
I'd say that the 'barfing' condition is the result of the trigger design. The trigger moves a very short distance between the air valve opening, and, the paint flowing. A longer trigger, measured from the pivot, would go a long way to correcting this condition.
Watching the video closely a couple of things are happening. First it could be there is a small air pocket occurring when paint is initially put into the airbrush and it just needs to blow past that pocket on the initial shot. As Will demonstrated it only occurred on the initial shot of an otherwise clean airbrush prior to use.
Also, another aspect is it appeared that Will was using a flat paint which due to it's "coarse" nature may inhibit the fluid nozzle slightly at first. A gloss will tend to flow and have a lower viscosity as well. The Grex does have a longer taper and corresponding fluid nozzle that this "air pocket" could be occurring and causing the problem with the initial shot of paint.
For me personally I tend to shoot onto paper towel first when starting to airbrush or changing from one color to another before addressing the model. Granted Will is not thinning with his MRP Paints but most paints do require thinning so I'm evaluating the paint performance before addressing the model itself. So if the airbrush has this tendency on the initial shot of paint, it'll never exhibit a problem on the model itself with a quick test before model application.
As to the trigger design it has a good travel before paint expels. It's a 2 stage trigger in which the first stage sets the air. Then a second spring engages which can be felt, after which paint expels. It's progressive, more pull, more paint. When the second stage engages it feels like a slight hitch. It could be Will is pulling just a little too much too quickly and getting the spurt of paint. After that he seems to have positive control without further issue. I like to compare it to finding the friction point on a stick shift car with a clutch. Once you find that point, its just subtle increases and decreases of finger pull to expel more or less paint.
It does take a little time to adapt to a pistol grip airbrush from a traditional style but once you get the hang of it it, it's very comfortable. Also, there is no risk of getting a spurt of paint when air is initiated like that of traditional style airbrushes. It really comes in handy doing German Mottled camo and similar.
I think that your iwatas are used more than the grex and you have more of feel for the neo brush. I want to get a grex as I just need a better air brush. Thanks dude 👍🏻
Regarding the Iwata's needles sticking, Paul Budzik blames it on Iwata's blue airbrush lube... it dries out and causes the sticking problem if left unused for some time. In one of his recent videos he says he uses Triflow instead without any problems.
except i don't use their lube. or any others.
The needle sticking can happen on any airbrush. It's usually due to paint getting in and behind the packing seal and not getting cleaned out on a regular basis. A pipe cleaner (a real one, not a craft pipe cleaner) with some lacquer thinner pushed from the front of the airbrush body, past the paint port and into the packing seal area will usually maintain the area enough that needles won't stick. It doesn't need to be done all the time, maybe one in 10 times the airbrush is used but it also depends on how often the end user does a thorough cleaning. It's just preventative maintenance and the problem is less likely to occur.
Bryant Dunbar is correct. I have a Neo and HP-C. and the same thing occurs. After you cleaned the needle the paint residue had to come from inside the airbrush. The seal Bryant refers to is the culprit.
Prior to a session of spraying I habitually give the needle a wipe.
I just bought a Iwata TRN1 and both the Iwata and the Grex look so close in shape, does anyone have issues with the standard mounts to hold the airbrushes not fitting these airbrushes well? how do you deal with that? Thanks.
super, use or try the Colani much better that both of them
Thanks for the review. I took Grex's airbrush class at the IPMS National Convention last Aug. using Tamiya for panel line shading and basic camo on a little Spitfire The two stage trigger set-up with the air coming on before the paint starts to flow with a further pull of the trigger took some getting used to. I got pretty good results in my limited time with the airbrush in class. Even the Tamiya wanted to "spit" a little on occasion. Other times, I could start spraying directly on the model with complete control. Clearly, technique, paint, and luck dependent :)
I bought a brush with a 0.2 and 0.3 needle using a discount coupon I got from the class. It made the class essentially free. I have yet to put it through its paces like you have.
The moldable hand grip was talked about positively in class. A review of their customizable grips would be helpful if you ever get the chance.
Thanks for all you do. It truly is a great help.
Thank you for posting about the IPMS Nationals workshop and the feedback. I will be conducting the workshops again at the 2019 IPMS Nationals in Chattanooga.
@@bryantdunbar3476 Thank you for an excellent class. In person demonstrations are second to none. The tasks were initially challenging but accomplished in due course with results that overcame self-impossed limitations and instilled a greater sense of confidence and satisfaction in airbrushing. You gave me that push and sense of "I think I can" I needed to keep at it. Thanks again.
@@homunculous007 It was my pleasure and thank you for the further feedback. I like what you say "I think I can". That's the whole intent of the workshop. Whether you use the techniques we did together or you find something else that works better, it doesn't matter. Its all about having confidence and going from there. I hope you continue to advance your airbrushing skills. All the best.
@@bryantdunbar3476 The TG2 and 3 have proven to be outstanding tools. With the correct thinning (approx. 40% Mr. Color Leveling Thinner with Tamiya paint) and air pressure generally lower than expected (12 psi), a very fine, delicate, and controlled spray pattern can be achieved. No "spitting" of any kind as in the beginning. Very easy to clean with the back flush method. A joy to use. Thank you again for the lesson and encouragement.
homunculous007 what’s the difference between the 2 and 3 I’m a beginner and really need help in making this decision I’m leaning towards the 2 only because I’m thinking it comes with more but I have no clue what I’m doing.
I just bought the Grex after watching this video!
You never 'said' what airbrush gun you use. You only said "this gun". WHAT BRAND/MODEL? I went to the link and this gun is no longer available. ????
And how do you measure the size when all needles have a point??? of course its something about the angle, otherwise it should only be the nozle that was different and not the needles.
It moves the paint faster becuase you are pushing the same pressure through a smaller nozzle, so the exit velocity of the from the air brush is faster.
is it possible for polyurethane paint
I am so glad you are reviewing the Grx trigger grip. I have hand and finger issues and you pull no punches in your reviews. I do wish you could have mentioned the weight of the airbrush since I do better with something that has some weight to it so I can feel that I have something in my hand. I so far feel like the Grex is not for me. It would take too long for to get that nozzle off and on. I think it would make a great beginner airbrush for people with no issues.
To the extent it is helpful to you and others I weighed the AB's I own:
Binks “Wren” 63 grams My first AB purchased 50+ years ago
Badger 20/20 “Sotar” 78 grams
Badger 155 “Anthem” 83 grams Siphon feed
Badger 105 “Patriot” 88 grams
Harder & Steenback “Infinity” 92 grams
ABEST “Q5” 106 grams Inexpensive Chinese AB
IWATA HP-C Plus 108 grams
GREX TG 227 grams
all of these are Gravity Feed except the Wren and Badger 155
The Grex Tritium has a nice weight to it. Most customers and those that try the airbrush out find the weight is positive and comes through the hand rather than being front or back heavy. As to the fluid nozzle, most quality airbrushes have a threaded fluid nozzle to ensure perfect alignment with the needle. This is a critical aspect of their interaction. The Grex fluid nozzle is stainless steel as aposed to many contemporary airbrushes which use brass, so it's pretty durable. Also the Grex fluid nozzles are a bit bigger in physical size to that of other airbrushes in which it almost takes a magnifying glass to see them. To change from one fluid nozzle to another only takes a minute or so.
With all due respect to Will he does have some dexterity issues with his fingers which does make manipulation of these parts a little more challenging but that will be the case for just about any quality airbrush and small parts.
A pistol grip airbrush is more intuitive and easy to learn but the Grex Tritium is an excellent tool for both beginner and and advance airbrush artists. Will hasn't even discussed the fan cap capability but hopefully he'll address that in the near future.
I have 2 grexit tg3 and I haven't had any problem with the airbrush. And the Burst of air at the beginning thats why always start off the project when I start air brushing. I was thinking that the grex airbrush would be a lot better for you than the neo iwata that you are using you just have to get use to how they operate .I had 3 of the neo iwata that a vender gave me when they came out and I hate them with a Passion . But for what we do in this hobby I don't think we need a .2mm Needle in this hobby I no I have never had to have one in over 35 years I have over 20 air brushes and every single one of them operates and sprays differently.and Each one takes time to get familiar with how it operates.
It's supposed to be 8am
Great review
Talk about not learning from your mistakes, you said you smashed your new Grex because it fell on the back side of the needle due to you not wanting to take 3 seconds to replace the back gaurd, then you get a new one and use it in the same manner? I guess if you don’t have to pay for it why bother, easy come, easy go.👎🏻
well, dumbskank, some of us use them this way regularly because the back piece is just in the way of frequent needle removal for cleaning. maybe if you built more than one snap-tite kit per year you'd understand.
@@barpfoto DUMBSKANK🤪 oh ho ho your so funny. At least I know to move my hands out of the way before painting my snap together models. Tard!
@@AngryPepper1964 cool story. i bet you practiced it front of the mirror didn't you?
Try Harder &Steenbeck infinity CR plus, and you never will use another messy airbrush!!
nah. I prefer the trigger style but aside from that I know too many people who think they are junk.
Nice review or whatever, Will :D
with that spatter on the models, perhaps it is just the sprayer is too close to the work!, with large automotive spray guns you need to have an adequate distance between nozzle and job, as the spray pattern has an 'ideal' distance, for best atomisation, and layering of the paint onto the surface, just like the multiple machine guns on a spitfire, they were 'tuned' to put all the lead out onto one spot at a specific distance away.
Y
Long winded & took to long to get to the point.
Neo are CRAP! INeo are not Iwata even if the name is on the box and brush...Buy real air
brushes like the CS and Ch and above models you will be amazed
squidlips6661 - I bought a Neo about 4 yrs ago and I've not had a problem with it. Yes I have other airbrushes including my fave, the H&S Infinity CR Plus 2in1 (superb).
Yes I have heard from others that they have had minor issues with their Neo, so I guess at that price point you'll get that variance in quality/fit & finish etc.
But overall, very happy with my particular Neo. I've heard the same from other modellers too.
The Neo is a real airbrush...no it is not made BY Iwata but it does bear their name and their standards of quality etc.
Will it be as good as an Iwata made in Japan? No, of course not. But as far as the "cheaper" airbrushes go the Neo is probably the best option there is. Far better than the cheaper Chinese clones.
Who sells it in the UK
Long winded & took to long to get to the point.
Long winded & took to long to get to the point.
You say that like it's a fact, instead of one of the many opinions available. But if that's your truth, then cool. You're more than welcome to go find another channel that you don't have to pay for.