Reversible Glue Joint Router Bits - Use and Setup Wood Router Tutorial
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- čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
- On this router table tutorial, we look at using a Reversible Glue Joint Wood Router Bit can help to align joints while also providing a larger glue surface in which to glue 2 materials together which would normally be Plywood, MDF or other man-made woodworking products.
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Thanks a lot, first time I see a video about this Reversible Glue Joint Router Bits.
thanks for leaving an 'oops' in the video -- makes it easy to relate to how i will have an oops and makes me want to learn more
I appreciate the occasional safety reminder. For those of us who don’t work wood every single day, these reminders are of particular value. I’m also grateful for the learning about “learning” demos., e.g. the reversible glue joints that didn’t quite work until the careful tweaking and selection of old vs. new MDF in a humid environment. Brilliant and humble mixed together.
Thanks for watching!
Good video. Thanks.
I adjust my router bit height with either a digital caliper or a dial gauge. It sure makes dialing in these types of bits much simpler and quicker.
Good video, thanks. Just an idea, after you make your first test cut cut a 1" strip of it off. Then cut that piece in half. Turn one piece over and try it into the other half. This may save you a lot of cuts.
Thanks Colin, I have tried to set that up several times with varying results. Now I understand why!
Certainly is a handy bit to have in the arsenal.
Thanks for sharing, mate👍
That was an awesome lesson (not to mess with the reversible glue joint bits). You've got yourself a new subscriber :) Thanks!
I have used reversible bits on hardwood bar tops and glued them , and so far I have not had any complaints of my work and there has been not splitting as hard wood is stable
Very interesting, Colin. Thanks.
I have never heard of a reversible glue joint router bit. Thanks for the knowledge Sir.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Good video and tips Colin! Thanks for sharing them with us.👍😎JP
lots of useful info here on this video,,,,,,Thank's Colin👍🏼
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great video Colin! I had never seen that bit before now, so thanks for posting this.......
You're Welcome!
Great video and tips!
Would this be suitable for end grain to end grain? I need to join two pieces of railing. My initial thought was finger joint bit, before I'd heard of this type of bit.
Thanks Colin. After watching the video I am no longer tempted to buy one of these router bits. I'll use my doweling jig in stead.
Dowels are what I prefer! Thanks for watching!
Great video. I have that bit and could never get a perfect mate. But, you pointed out that the board's thickness may be different from one plank to another. Time to revise that router bit. When I glue something together, I expect never to try to rip it apart. I want it as strong as the wood itself. So gluing the same type of material together is fine for me. This also add a greater surface area to apply the glue.
Barry
Another well done Video Colin. Glad I subscribed
Thank You!
Hey Colin, I'm still new to woodworking. I think this illustrates the problem with getting good measurements on your tools and products. Without driving yourself crazy, how do you get good clean cuts with your tools and power tools? What does a month to month basis look like in a GOOD woodworking shop?
I've seen people try to zero tools and jigs to the .001 of an inch, and it's fascinating. I generally need to make coffee tables, bed frames, and generalized furniture. 87 or 88 degrees on center would work. You know? Some "ballpark" videos would be amazing. :) I haven'ts seen a "Rough Cuts" series on CZcams.
Why not just a regular finger joint or t&g? I do think it looks nice and unique though
Boa dica valeu abraço de Caxias do sul RS 🇧🇷
Colin,
Once you get it adjusted correctly couldn’t you save your test pieces for quick reference setup blocks?
Love your videos thank you.
Wayne
Hello Colin, thanks for another great informative video, I was wondering how well you like that Freud router table? I also noticed that when you were adjusting the height of the bit, that the torx head cap screw on the top was turning, I was also wondering if that means that you can adjust the height from above, without lifting the table top? Please let me know.
Great!
Thank You!
It would b interesting to use this when gluing up boards for an end grain cutting board.
Thanks
You're Welcome!
Agree with Ascot4000. After buying a set for different thicknesses. I got so frustrated with the set up I buried them in the bottom of my router table draw.
Why are you adjusting the height of the router by reaching under the table instead of using a hex key in the socket on the left side of the screen?
Would have also liked to see that test strip pair glued up...it looks extremely tight.
How well does the bit work if one piece is on edge? Does it make a good 90 deg. connection?
Very interesting video and router bit. Thanks for sharing.
When I followed the link it confirmed what I already thought: it's a 1/2" shank.
I'll try to find out if there also exist 8 mm versions of it.
I think (but maybe I'm wrong) that the bit can also be used in "real" wood, for making a kind of alternative tongue and groove connection.
Yes, most of the bits in North America are Imperial ... you don't see many metric bits, even here in Canada.
If you like the look, there's no reason you can't use it on real wood. Thanks for watching.
Study the geometry of the bit's profile carefully to determine where the center of it is. In the first stab at it in this video, it was guessed incorrectly. The center is not on the end of the "finger" of the bit; it's actually at the center of the sloping shoulder on the top of the finger. I agree that it's tricky to set this bit up precisely (I own and use one), but once it is, the results are very good, and certainly easier and more efficient than using splines, or multiple biscuits or dominoes to edge-glue boards. However, any multiplicity of boards, regardless of how carefully they are stored and acclimated to the shop environment, will never be precisely uniform in thickness, so I suggest that you will need--regardless of how carefully you set up the bit--to run the resulting glued boards through a planer to attain uniform thickness and shave off any minor displacement in the glue joints.
Muito bom💜💜😇👏👏👏👏
Thank You!
Great tips!! One question: regardless of the type of router bit being used do you set the fence on the table to be even with carbide? I fight fence setup all the time. Thank you for the great tips and videos.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! No, it depends on the bit how far out the router bit extends from the fence.
Thanks Colin, strange that there's no setting point. What a job to set it!
It sure is! Thanks for watching.
Mr. WoodWorkWeb and company,
I have another companies, other than "Red", in a Glue Joint Bit, and when asking their technical help; They mentioned to use an offset, but no larger than a 32nd inch. I haven't had time to use my bit in the router table due to new electrical work in the garage/shop, and building multi-purpose stands / out-feed table , but have you found that using an offset might help in snipe at the end of the cut, scalloping of the cut, or with making the joint run cleaner along the fence?
I thought I saw that the cut was away from the out-feed side of the fence when watching the demonstration. TIA.
-J "The Wood Mangler"
Thanks for reminding me why my RGJ bit joined the Lock Miter Bit in the bit graveyard years ago; the functionality was easy to replace.
Also, I always found that I never want blue masking tape on the face down on my router table, especially one up / one down on surfaces to be mated in particular; can introduce variability.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
So two critical factors are that both pieces are exactly the same thickness, and the setting of the bit is measured from the center of the cutting height of the bit to be aligned with the center of the work pieces. Correct?
Wow! That was a lot of trouble to set up. If time is money, a Festool Domino almost looks cheap in comparison. 😮
Thanks for the warning. 😏
I prefer dowel joints myself, much quicker. Thanks for watching!
Lesson learned; try to use material in the same moisture condition.
Thanks. I liked your video. One question though, could you use the bit in real wood to keep it aligned?
Yes.
👍👍
Hi Colin how do you know how far back to set the fence
If there is a bearing, the bearing wants to be even with the fence, if there is no bearing you need set the bit proud of the fence to where it will make a safe cut, then if needed, readjust the bit to get a bit deeper cut, and repeat as needed.
@@knecht105 thank u
They can be frustrating to set up by trial and error. I think the trick is to set the mid-point of the bit (1 1/4” bit so 5/8” from the top should be the mid-point) to the mid-point of your material. So for a 3/4” board, half way up the board is 3/8” so the bit’s midpoint needs to be at the same height (in this case, the height of the top of the bit would be 3/8” + 5/8” = 1” from the table top.) I can only set one up with losing my patience by using a digital height gauge. You can feel 1 thou of height difference with your fingers so the height setting needs to be precise. Cheers
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
I'm surprised that the bit isn't marked on the point of symmetry. It would make using it so much easier.
What I'd maybe try is to cut a piece of hardwood or that plastic you use for your table saw runners to use as a guide. I'd cut them in 1/2" 3/4" & 1" thicknesses then setting up the bit in the future would be quicker as you'd just use the hardwood / plastic piece as a guide to setting the bit height.
Yes, if you were to use these bits on a regular, some sort of setup jig would be mandatory!!! Thanks for watching.
Hello there, these routers are harder to adjust than the table moulder variant. Just because on a table moulder an adjustment can be made with the rings below the tool and this can not with a router. The center of the milling tool is incorrectly indicated in the video. It lies in the middle of the slope of the top of the "tooth". You can try to find the center of the wood thickness, but it is easier to find this less or more and adjust for each side of the wood to be milled.
In order to ensure that this connection completely closes and therefore no wide glue joints occur, you should remove about 0.5 mm extra from the wood.Then you have the full profile depth. So do not align the small diameter of the router with the fence. The second part of the fence must therefore also be adjusted (no idea how you name this second fence). Hopefully this gives a bit more insight into the working of this cutter.
Best regards.
solution is to find your blade's middle point and wood piece's middle point, then aligning it.thats all.
Colin I can see why its been awhile since you went for this bit.
Yup, it's a Pain. Thanks for watching!
Rule number one. Never leave the tape between the table and work piece you are changing the thickness of the material.
im using my carjack to heighten up my router and do the test cut. When it alligned perfect i lock my router and go on
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
These router bits with such a narrow range of acceptable error are almost useless.
I would think that a prerequisite for making a video should be knowing how to use the tool.
This should have been a 2-3 minute video
Thanks for watching, anyways!
So... thats why you don't do it that way dude. You do all the top cuts first, then adjust the bit for the under cut for each joint. Sorry you didn't figure that out on your own...????
THROW THAT BIT IN THE GARBAGE, YOU CANT MAKE MONEY WITH SOMETHING THAT TAKES THAT MUCH TIME TO SET UP
Free hint: to stop failing with ”fractions of inches”, stop using stupid inches and go metric.