I've got from slowest group to second fastest group in less than six months by watching your videos and putting your tips into practise. Thank you and hopefully you release some more videos in the future.
Thx you for the list, will definitely use it for next season! My biggest weakness to work on next season: 1:Riding smoother (noticed I’ve been pushing too hard, getting quickly fatigued, missing entry points, basically holding on to the bike) 2. Throttle control (noticed I keep the bike on too high gear, the throttle keeps cutting off mid corner) 3. Body position ( scraping my pegs allot, so I have too much lean on my bike, this has been a big issue for me) Past season I worked on keeping that moment when neither braking or throttling too a minimum. Also worked on braking more into the corner, so later braking. Cheers!
Wow. Thank you. I feel like I have improved fast because of years on the motocross track however I realized after watching this my vision needs to be more wide, more open, more fully observant not just a narrow focus
completely agree with vision, but I also think its worth mentioning as a separate point is 'concentration and/or focus'. I know its kind of obvious, but I find its useful to consciously bring my attention to WHAT I am focusing on, WHERE and WHEN. I think Keith Code calls it 'attention dollars', and there is only so much you can 'spend'
Great video, I agree with the list but not with the order of importance of some of the elements, to use properly the throttle, brakes, lean angle you need to have good body position, not using the brakes properly will not allow you to arrive ar the speed you need and therefore you will be afraid of opening the throttle, thanks for another great video
I crashed due to poor body position one year ago while I was learning and have worked on perfecting that since then(engine protector hit the asphalt, mt-09). With the marigin for error that has provided for me due to decreased lean angle I've managed to work on all other areas in a controlled manner with room for errors. Just letting off the gas or in more dire situations; tap the front brake and you can avoid unnecessary dirt traveling since you have the lean angle on your side with good body position. But that's what worked for me, I started riding motorcycles last year and imo body position is what's kept me safe. Discussions are welcome!
Btw, your channel helped me out a lot last year - had a really good time watching the videos with all the good hints, thanks a lot! I'm @LQRacing on Facebook where there's some photos. (I had a good laugh when you said the part about looking good on photos, haha, cause they're so much fun to have a look at after a trackday 😆)
Brilliant. I like how you left open the ability to change importance with individual riders. I can say this: It is the method I employ, and it's gotten me to a level of consistency where I've been given permission to try intermediate. Thx bro!
Great list, and visual skill makes or breaks pretty much every other aspect of riding. The way you present information is very well thought out. Makes informative content easy to absorb.
Completely agree...I think you have the order nailed. I trust my vision so (before seeing this) I'm working on quicker steering, as Twist of the wrist 2 preaches. I started also to try to improve braking, but immediately fell in the error you mention here (too aggressive, no improvement in lap time). The part about being smooth is also very good. Thanks for sharing, it helps great deal
While I, like most I suppose, agree that vision skull is very important that's not what I would start working on. I think throttle control make more sense to start with followed by steering and then you could go to vision skills and repeat.
I know this may sound silly, ridiculous even, but playing "RIDE3" (The video game) actually helped me a lot with my real life riding. Hell, I've even tested your advice in the game and saw results! Now I know that makes me sound like a tool, and in no way am I affiliated with the game! But I think it's an amazing simulator for anyone looking to test out new methods prior to using them in real life (plus you get to ride any bike you want - it also taught me there IS a need for TCS, ABS, and wheelie control on the bigger bikes :P
beobe99 I too am enjoying Ride 3. It’s very interesting to compare real life track day riding at Donners & Brands to the tracks on Ride 3. For a better approximation of real life try time attack with the aids off and manual gears. Try braking with just the front brake (while upright) and really nailing the turn with a very positive turn in. Immediately and continuously start to gently roll on your throttle but hold your drive till you are more vertical, many riders attempt to drive while still on full lean or worse accelerate and turn simultaneously on long corners (to get a knee down!) This is a common recipe for track day crashes. Finally you will learn more on a 600 using just 3rd and 2nd gears till you have really nailed your vision, steering, consistent reference points and execution, brakes and throttle control. At Donners you can improve your drive out of the hairpin with 1st and you briefly touch 4th but in real life you will learn more if you have less to do with the gears.
@@AC-id6rf Great advice. Right now (in game) I strictly do Time Attack and love racing myself and of course comparing my times to others trying to stay within the 1st page. That, and the AI's play a wonderful blocking game that makes the races unbearable for me - rage ensues! I currently use aids off but never actually chose full manual as I'd simply play with the Ratios or gear down when the bike bogs. I'm sure going full manual will be frustrating (in game it's all fingers fumbling around), but I'll give it a shot! That braking technique, which I believe you're referring to "trail braking", I have played with and when it works, it works! What I do is ride the brakes and gas mid turn to the exit "slipping" them like you would a clutch in drag racing. It pulls the bike in and keeps the revs cued up for when it's time to ride out. I'm also with you on using the smaller / mid sized bikes. My favorite is the VTR SP2 (closest to my RC51 we got in the States). It's forgiving but still gives you a small taste of possible low / high sides. Currently I just use the bigger bikes (ducati desmosedici rr or rsv4) just to get nutty on learning nothing LOL.
beobe99 Love the SP2. Love V twins for the grunt out of corners. There is a big old difference between braking up right and trail braking. Dan describes trail braking thus. “The idea is that you start your braking upright in the normal manner and get the bulk of your braking done, then as you start to turn into the corner (still using a bit of brake) and lean the bike you gradually release the pressure on the brake lever at the same rate you are leaning the bike, so once you have reached your max lean you will be completely off the brakes.” For most people even at track days they would be better off learning to apply their brakes to their maximum effectiveness while upright. At track days you see lots of coasting or the opposite corner charging! Coasting means you take too long to get to corner entry speed. And charging has you arriving at the corner with an unsettled bike and rattled rider!
Nice episode! As someone who used to race, has gotten older and, was away from the track for more than 10 years, I can actually use some of the information you provided here. All of it is important to me but I have created my own list of items to work on for next weekend. For me right now, body, vision and breaking Can you do a program to help with the conundrum of managing tire pressures? I just tried a set of Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa II's and found conflicting information everywhere about what the appropriate tire pressures should be. Even the track tire service (Pirelli) provided a different pressure than everything I had heard before. Thanks !
hey dan, i love your videos and they are always very clear and full of usefull information but im after a piece of advise on a singular issue im having with exploring the various techniques involved in hanging off and dragging knee. whenever i am in a corner and expecting my inside knee to touch down, i almost always seem to drag my toes instead. this causes me to flinch a little and partially stand the bike up effecting my line and drive out of the corner. it sort of boggles my mind as i am always making a conscious effort to have about half a cheek out of the seat, have the ball of my foot on the inside peg and have my heel locked on the outside peg but its always my toes that touch down! i have only touched the ground with my knees twice in my entire riding history. once turning right and recently once turning left but it was only very brief and through a much more exaggerated hang of position, at least compared to what im used to. im thinking that i might have to get adjustable rearsets perhaps to lift my boots up a little higher and get more ground clearance? although, i have already adjusted the rear shock so that its in its firmest and highest position possible in the hunt for more clearance. the bike im speaking of is a ninja EX300, i got it for the sole purpose of using it for training. any tips and advise would be invaluable. thanks.
Do you have stock pegs? When riding do you get cramped up and or have sore knees? If you have stock pegs and are comfortable on the bike rear sets are a must! You can also get risers for those rear sets. A big tip if you are a track day rider is, ask a racer to follow you for a few laps and give you some feed back. Usually if a person is way faster that you they will help all day long ,once you are getting close in speed to then I'd take the advice with a grain of salt.
Hi Julian, your stock pegs may be quite low which won't help the issue. Other things are to make sure your toes are tucked away as much as possible while still maintaining a good footing. Lastly if you are on the short side with short legs, it's always a bigger challenge to get your knee down first. Difficult to say more than that without seeing you though.
@@LifeatLean thanks for the advice mate, and yeah im not overly tall just 5'10 but i would of thought my height was about right for that bike? I'll keep practicing and working on my body position and if i don't make any improvements then I'll look at getting some rearsets. Cheers
It was the second time this year. It was a slower one. I had all the parts fixed within the week. The slower technical corners is what I am having a harder time with.
dan i wanna ask something out of topic but when u rev match do you blip before shifting or after, there's lot of variation on tutorial, so im kinda confuseThanks
Clutch in, drop a gear and at the same time blip the throttle, before the revs drop release the clutch. Has to be a quick motion to work smoothly. Be careful not to give it too much throttle or when you release the clutch quickly it will lift the front wheel, which isn't your goal.
"It's about working with the bike, not fighting against it". I like that!
#8. relax and have fun, because that’s why your on a bike in the first place
u should post some onboard vids of your trackdays
I've got from slowest group to second fastest group in less than six months by watching your videos and putting your tips into practise. Thank you and hopefully you release some more videos in the future.
Thx you for the list, will definitely use it for next season!
My biggest weakness to work on next season:
1:Riding smoother (noticed I’ve been pushing too hard, getting quickly fatigued, missing entry points, basically holding on to the bike)
2. Throttle control (noticed I keep the bike on too high gear, the throttle keeps cutting off mid corner)
3. Body position ( scraping my pegs allot, so I have too much lean on my bike, this has been a big issue for me)
Past season I worked on keeping that moment when neither braking or throttling too a minimum. Also worked on braking more into the corner, so later braking.
Cheers!
Wow. Thank you. I feel like I have improved fast because of years on the motocross track however I realized after watching this my vision needs to be more wide, more open, more fully observant not just a narrow focus
completely agree with vision, but I also think its worth mentioning as a separate point is 'concentration and/or focus'.
I know its kind of obvious, but I find its useful to consciously bring my attention to WHAT I am focusing on, WHERE and WHEN. I think Keith Code calls it 'attention dollars', and there is only so much you can 'spend'
Absolutely fantastic advice I love this channel and I wish there were ongoing contributions by the Vlogger
Great video, I agree with the list but not with the order of importance of some of the elements, to use properly the throttle, brakes, lean angle you need to have good body position, not using the brakes properly will not allow you to arrive ar the speed you need and therefore you will be afraid of opening the throttle, thanks for another great video
Thank you. Your vids are the best on YT in race driving topic.
Love your content. Thoughtful and articulate. Top marks.
great channel Dan, very useful for new riders
I crashed due to poor body position one year ago while I was learning and have worked on perfecting that since then(engine protector hit the asphalt, mt-09). With the marigin for error that has provided for me due to decreased lean angle I've managed to work on all other areas in a controlled manner with room for errors. Just letting off the gas or in more dire situations; tap the front brake and you can avoid unnecessary dirt traveling since you have the lean angle on your side with good body position. But that's what worked for me, I started riding motorcycles last year and imo body position is what's kept me safe. Discussions are welcome!
Btw, your channel helped me out a lot last year - had a really good time watching the videos with all the good hints, thanks a lot! I'm @LQRacing on Facebook where there's some photos. (I had a good laugh when you said the part about looking good on photos, haha, cause they're so much fun to have a look at after a trackday 😆)
My pleasure, Lucy. And I agree, looking at photos is still good 😜
Brilliant. I like how you left open the ability to change importance with individual riders. I can say this: It is the method I employ, and it's gotten me to a level of consistency where I've been given permission to try intermediate. Thx bro!
Great list, and visual skill makes or breaks pretty much every other aspect of riding. The way you present information is very well thought out. Makes informative content easy to absorb.
Cheers Keith!
Thanks for the great tips , great info. I've just started doing track days again in my 60's but never too old to learn. Keep up the good work
Completely agree...I think you have the order nailed. I trust my vision so (before seeing this) I'm working on quicker steering, as Twist of the wrist 2 preaches. I started also to try to improve braking, but immediately fell in the error you mention here (too aggressive, no improvement in lap time). The part about being smooth is also very good. Thanks for sharing, it helps great deal
Good knowledge on this Chanel. Just don’t argue with yourself which should be first or second😄
Thank you😊
While I, like most I suppose, agree that vision skull is very important that's not what I would start working on. I think throttle control make more sense to start with followed by steering and then you could go to vision skills and repeat.
I know this may sound silly, ridiculous even, but playing "RIDE3" (The video game) actually helped me a lot with my real life riding. Hell, I've even tested your advice in the game and saw results!
Now I know that makes me sound like a tool, and in no way am I affiliated with the game! But I think it's an amazing simulator for anyone looking to test out new methods prior to using them in real life (plus you get to ride any bike you want - it also taught me there IS a need for TCS, ABS, and wheelie control on the bigger bikes :P
beobe99 I too am enjoying Ride 3. It’s very interesting to compare real life track day riding at Donners & Brands to the tracks on Ride 3.
For a better approximation of real life try time attack with the aids off and manual gears. Try braking with just the front brake (while upright) and really nailing the turn with a very positive turn in. Immediately and continuously start to gently roll on your throttle but hold your drive till you are more vertical, many riders attempt to drive while still on full lean or worse accelerate and turn simultaneously on long corners (to get a knee down!) This is a common recipe for track day crashes.
Finally you will learn more on a 600 using just 3rd and 2nd gears till you have really nailed your vision, steering, consistent reference points and execution, brakes and throttle control.
At Donners you can improve your drive out of the hairpin with 1st and you briefly touch 4th but in real life you will learn more if you have less to do with the gears.
@@AC-id6rf Great advice. Right now (in game) I strictly do Time Attack and love racing myself and of course comparing my times to others trying to stay within the 1st page. That, and the AI's play a wonderful blocking game that makes the races unbearable for me - rage ensues!
I currently use aids off but never actually chose full manual as I'd simply play with the Ratios or gear down when the bike bogs. I'm sure going full manual will be frustrating (in game it's all fingers fumbling around), but I'll give it a shot!
That braking technique, which I believe you're referring to "trail braking", I have played with and when it works, it works! What I do is ride the brakes and gas mid turn to the exit "slipping" them like you would a clutch in drag racing. It pulls the bike in and keeps the revs cued up for when it's time to ride out.
I'm also with you on using the smaller / mid sized bikes. My favorite is the VTR SP2 (closest to my RC51 we got in the States). It's forgiving but still gives you a small taste of possible low / high sides. Currently I just use the bigger bikes (ducati desmosedici rr or rsv4) just to get nutty on learning nothing LOL.
beobe99
Love the SP2. Love V twins for the grunt out of corners.
There is a big old difference between braking up right and trail braking.
Dan describes trail braking thus.
“The idea is that you start your braking upright in the normal manner and get the bulk of your braking done, then as you start to turn into the corner (still using a bit of brake) and lean the bike you gradually release the pressure on the brake lever at the same rate you are leaning the bike, so once you have reached your max lean you will be completely off the brakes.”
For most people even at track days they would be better off learning to apply their brakes to their maximum effectiveness while upright.
At track days you see lots of coasting or the opposite corner charging!
Coasting means you take too long to get to corner entry speed. And charging has you arriving at the corner with an unsettled
bike and rattled rider!
Man i love your content. like I learn every time, even if i know the movement you just explain it that i feel yeah now i can do it perfectly.
Nice episode! As someone who used to race, has gotten older and, was away from the track for more than 10 years, I can actually use some of the information you provided here. All of it is important to me but I have created my own list of items to work on for next weekend. For me right now, body, vision and breaking Can you do a program to help with the conundrum of managing tire pressures? I just tried a set of Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa II's and found conflicting information everywhere about what the appropriate tire pressures should be. Even the track tire service (Pirelli) provided a different pressure than everything I had heard before. Thanks !
Keep the vids coming Dan great stuff roll on this year's track days
Informative and useful, as always. The best guide for riding on the internet. Thank you.
Thanks Davor! Happy to have you around.
Seriously awesome video. Great content in all your videos! Keep it up!
Braking and body position for me. Need more track time.
As usual, great video. Thanks!
Hi Dan, Happy New Year, thanks for the great content.
One of your best videos 😎😎💪💪
Cheers Dann 👍
Very well told!
good job !!
Make exercise related video for trackdays
hey dan, i love your videos and they are always very clear and full of usefull information but im after a piece of advise on a singular issue im having with exploring the various techniques involved in hanging off and dragging knee. whenever i am in a corner and expecting my inside knee to touch down, i almost always seem to drag my toes instead. this causes me to flinch a little and partially stand the bike up effecting my line and drive out of the corner. it sort of boggles my mind as i am always making a conscious effort to have about half a cheek out of the seat, have the ball of my foot on the inside peg and have my heel locked on the outside peg but its always my toes that touch down! i have only touched the ground with my knees twice in my entire riding history. once turning right and recently once turning left but it was only very brief and through a much more exaggerated hang of position, at least compared to what im used to. im thinking that i might have to get adjustable rearsets perhaps to lift my boots up a little higher and get more ground clearance? although, i have already adjusted the rear shock so that its in its firmest and highest position possible in the hunt for more clearance. the bike im speaking of is a ninja EX300, i got it for the sole purpose of using it for training. any tips and advise would be invaluable. thanks.
Do you have stock pegs? When riding do you get cramped up and or have sore knees? If you have stock pegs and are comfortable on the bike rear sets are a must! You can also get risers for those rear sets. A big tip if you are a track day rider is, ask a racer to follow you for a few laps and give you some feed back. Usually if a person is way faster that you they will help all day long ,once you are getting close in speed to then I'd take the advice with a grain of salt.
Hi Julian, your stock pegs may be quite low which won't help the issue. Other things are to make sure your toes are tucked away as much as possible while still maintaining a good footing. Lastly if you are on the short side with short legs, it's always a bigger challenge to get your knee down first. Difficult to say more than that without seeing you though.
@@LifeatLean thanks for the advice mate, and yeah im not overly tall just 5'10 but i would of thought my height was about right for that bike? I'll keep practicing and working on my body position and if i don't make any improvements then I'll look at getting some rearsets. Cheers
Great advice !
I wrecked again bro :facepalm: I am still learning and hitting them corners harder and harder.
If you keep crashing Steve, take a step back, slow it down and work on reaching a good fundamental level before pushing hard.
It was the second time this year. It was a slower one. I had all the parts fixed within the week. The slower technical corners is what I am having a harder time with.
Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast.
How are you getting on with the triumph.
I love the thing. However I'd be lying if I said I didn't miss my Fireblade power a little (on the track specifically).
dan i wanna ask something out of topic but when u rev match do you blip before shifting or after, there's lot of variation on tutorial, so im kinda confuseThanks
Clutch in, drop a gear and at the same time blip the throttle, before the revs drop release the clutch.
Has to be a quick motion to work smoothly. Be careful not to give it too much throttle or when you release the clutch quickly it will lift the front wheel, which isn't your goal.
Hi Gamas. I don't blip I'm afraid so I can't really help you there.
5:09 no way. Really? In my bike I'd shave off my leg