EMP Vehicle Protection / What are the options?
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- čas přidán 1. 03. 2023
- EMP protected vehicles give peace of mind in the event of an EMP, Solar Flare or Lightning Strike, these are some devices on the market we have found and installed. You can find technical & purchase information of the Faraday Defense and EMP shield devices below.
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EMPshield.com
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Disasterpreparer.com
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Here is a video highlighting more information on the T.R.A.P. B device from Dr Bradley / AKA EMP Doc.
• Installation of T.R.A.... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Be sure to use discount code (PREPARED23) at checkout to save some money at:
EMPShield.com
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Disasterpreparer.com
This is going to be one of the best marketing strategies I have ever seen. It's a product you can't even test and if it's actually needed that if it doesn't work you won't even be able to go after the people who manufactured it 😂😂😂😂
Very true. BUT, if it works it could save livs right before the entire world ends. It is a crap shoot. Wanna play?
@@henrymorgan3982 prep non computerized vehicles and gennys.
You can make an emp device at home look it up create replicated and test on the device to break and report it back
You had better keep water and snacks in you vehicles at all times. Before we had the EMP SHIELD installed on our car we went to see our Mechanic. He said they are great and he's putting more EMP SHIELDS on the vehicles they get in. Then I phoned a Licensed Electrician that we know to ask him questions about it. He said, I already put the EMP SHIELD on my electric box. PEOPLE DON'T PAY ANY ATTENTION TO STUPID PEOPLE.
The Home EMP SHIELD has two green lights on it that lets you know it’s working good. The vehicle EMP SHIELD has one green light on it that tells you it’s working good. The vehicle shield is connected to your battery because that’s what needs to be protected from an EMP ATTACK from a bomb or the Sun.
Would like to see these tested against actual EMP's.
Ok there’s a big thing I need to mention here. It’s that the EMP thing is a very old myth that continues to make people believe you need older equipment to survive. It’s not true and here’s why. New Mexico tech did a study a few years back and they repeat it every few years as cars get redesigned. Their outdoor EMP device was used to test a number of modern vehicles for resistance to a pulse. The study found that most vehicles if shut off durning an EMP will have no serious damage from the pulse. Running vehicles will shut off but can be restarted almost immediately. There might be some other non essential systems knocked out like the tire sensors or the radio or some of the safety sensors but the core vehicle systems will be unaffected and it will remain 100 percent operable. The reason is that a car is essentially its own faraday cage and it’s insulated from the ground via the rubber tires. Car computers if you think about where they are usually located are also insulated internally and are very robust internally they have to be. They have to withstand 160 plus degrees in 90 plus percent humidity for months at a time, followed by months of extreme cold with endless heating and cooling cycles. Stands to reason they’re going to be a lot more resilient then people give them credit for
That sounds like they're testing resistance against a lightning bolt & not an EMP.
How did they reproduce the EMP?
Actually, it just dawned me.
There's a difference between a solar flare EMP & nuclear. From what I've read appliances & cars would be unaffected by a solar flare but the transformers & grid would get fried.
But, a nuke EMP would fry everything.
So, did study differentiate between the two?
@@markmcflounder15I know two different people that got their vehicles struck by lightning knocking out the stereo system in one and instrument cluster in the other. Might be a good investment for price
From what I've read, I'm not claiming anything here I'm no professional. Just curiosity. Sounds like a weaponized version is what we are worrying about. And like someone said, nuclear emps are going to hit somewhere along 50000 volts across the US. Pretty much everything is completely toasted unless it's already underground. I'm not ready at all.
These things look like the surge protectors and not EMP protectors
3 wires?? The battery's Negative terminal is connected directly to the chassis frame.
Ya he lost me with the Neutral in a DC system. Edit: these seem as gimicky as the 'plug me in to get 40% better mileage' devices. Would love to see a test done like discharge a large cap onto it to see if it actually triggers
The guy in this video barely knows how to change a battery. He has no clue why those wires are there. All he wants is to sell you snake oil for $400 and get the commission.
Look at those long wires this device comes with. That is against any kind of proper design for a shunt. It's a complete joke.
EMP would damage the boards as well depending on the exact frequency of the EMP's pulse wave (the wave length as the wave washes over any circuitry). No shunt can protect against the boards and even the chips themselves being washes over by the EMP wave. These may protect from a longer wavelength pulse which uses a lower frequency wave which is a physically longer wave that washes over the wire harness and creates a voltage... assuming the current doesn't get shunted through the battery or other parts... here's the thing, your car is a faraday cage on wheels because all the wires are surrounded by metal which is both circuit ground and is slightly earthed via the tires and some coupling to the soil below you.
To protect the delicate electronics, you'd need a spark gap and/or a MOV (Metal Oxide Varisor) on *each* wire that goes into each electronic circuit in the car along the CAN bus and other parts of the wire harness as the power wires are usually filtered because automotive 12V circuits are noisy, dirty, and voltage will sag and spike violently as the alternator cannot maintain a steady 14 volts when the RPM and loads are constantly changing, it simply can't adjust field coil current fast enough for the delicate and precise electronics, so they have their own solid-state converters that are laser precise and can hold a constant(ish) voltage with only a few milli-volts of ripple even if the alternator voltage is bouncing between 9 and 14 volts constantly. So the power wires, especially by the battery which is the thing that stabilizes voltages for you most of the time anyway, is pointless and a waste of time.
I kid you not, wrap tin foil sandwhich wrap around the ECU, and any other important electronics, make a good connection from the metal foil to the car body, and then put MOVs and/or spark gaps on all inputs and outputs you can't keep shielded. Foil that is grounded to the body or the negative terminal of the car battery (they're connected together at the battery anyhow) will act as a decent little faraday cage and will severely dampen all electromagnetic waves that pass over then much like how your car's metal body protects you in the case of a direct strike by lightning, conducting the energy safely around you to ground rather than through you to ground. This of course all depends on how much distance you get from foil to circuits as the dampening drops off with distance (that is closer to the center of the cage is way way more damped than the outside) this is why your microwave has mesh on the door, it contains the 2.4 ghz waves so you don't cook you hands, the glass gap keeps you away from the mesh so that the dampening can take effect. The exact distance needed to block 99.9999999% of the energy depends on the largest hole in the foil and the wave length that hits it, but a few centimeters (or an inch if you're dead set on the dumb units of measurements) should be enough. Just wrap a spacer like some foam and then wrap the foil and then shield the wires, twist the wires carefully, or place MOVs and spark gaps on the wires and you'll be fine.
OR you could drive the car into a metal container at night and that grounded metal container like a seacan will block all most all wavelengths or almost any power from reaching into or out of the car.
Exactly correct, and will save you the $450.00 they are charging for the little device with a few capacitors in it!
EMP won't do anything to a car except shut if off.....this has been PROVEN, 95% of vehicles will simply shut down and restart.....people keep buying into these bullshit myths.
Best EMP protection is a car with points. Added anti-theft if you 'adjust' it before placing it in storage.
Pre-1968. The average vehicle on the road today has over 100 unshielded computer modules.
Better yet old school mechanical diesel with manual transmission to rollstart incase alternator dies
I’m completely ignorant when it comes to this stuff, but trying to learn. Would the early 80’s HEI set up on my old Chevy survive, or do I need to be running points in my K20?
@@jimmywesberry Willing to bet if you have HEI Ignition that you have an ECM and likely also Fuel Injection.
@@jimmywesberry Just have an extra ignition module wrapped in aluminum foil in the glove box.
Seems much like the gas tube shunts used in telecom for lightning strikes, except they can dump excess voltage to actual ground. The vehicle is not really grounded as it floats on rubber tires, so dumping excess high voltage to the chassis is going to fry the computers as they are also connected to chassis ground.
I like to see it work
Voltage is NOT frequency. Please stop using the word frequency for voltage.
What about the hi levels of RF, an EMP doesn't just travel through wires
The police EMP'd my car. I was driving a fancy dancy show off car, and they saw me, got excited, held up a black device, while looking directly at me. My car engine shut off at 4000 rpm. I was able to restart after cycling the key. They did it as a joke, and drove off, laughing. Chandler Arizona.
You must have your dash cam footage.
Not a EMP, they were simply activating a disabler in your vehicle, which is likely going to be in EVERY NEW VEHICLE.
@@ChevySS1968which is why I drive old cars.
Bastards
Great video, We appreciate it!
Yea, so thisay protect the battery, however it is not going to help ECM or CPU, get a pole building, make sure it is properly grounded, park the car inside. Its called a faraday cage.
glad this stuff exists
That battery needs love.
I was always told, that an EMP, fries everything. Where are these components made. What country.
I'd love to see the inside of one of these. Guaranteed it has just a simple circuit board inside to power the LEDs. Your battery and electrical system is already grounded to the chassis by 6 gauge wire.
I can't find any videos with anyone taking the emp shield apart.
If I apply 100K volts to your car's negative terminal, that's going to look like -100KV on the positive...that'll break something. Right ? Because voltage is really Delta V between two points. The gauge might not matter much. A really fast transient pulse will be on the skin of the conductor. I suspect he shunt circuit is a comparator and fast transistor.
@@nonokodog622 LOL. You have no clue what you're talking about.
Could spare low voltage battery act as bath absorb extra voltage and current help?
Emp is a real deal, and cars are not a rolling Faraday cage. The chips cannot stand the surge emp puts out. Check the Colonel who works at the pentagon the does the work. Last name is Forstchen.
His study was very serious according to the school I was at.
Did he write the book," One Second After"?
I scoff at EMP as I own a '85 Ford with a 460. It has a dizzy with electronics and an alternator with electronic voltage regulator which can be damaged by EMP. In an ammo can is a 70s dizzy with points, spare points and capacitor, and a mechanical voltage regulator all of which will survive at any EMP. The truck sits with over 50 gallons of gasoline. I can convert to these mechanical parts in about an hour. This country boy will survive.
^^ THis guy actually gets EMP and electronics!
I have two Ford 460s, 50 gallons won't get you far!!
@@AUCTIONCAT2011 it will get him to other broken down vehicles that have gas
@@AUCTIONCAT2011 almost 600 miles on 55 gallons (18.3+35) as I get almost 12 mpg at highway speed. Slower I can go farther. I also keep a lot of ethanol-free gasoline in cans for my generator. This is on 87 octane, 9:1 c.r., and other mods.
The Carrington event level “emp” had accounts of electrical arcs shooting off telegraph wires and systems being powered and operational without being connected to power. In the scale of solar geomagnetic storms the Carrington wasn’t anything special. I don’t think any of these would help in the case of something more intense.
Maybe I missed this point in one of the comments but let’s assume this device does actually work when needed……what about the battery operated keyless key fob in my pocket??? How the flip am I going to start my vehicle?
Those clip on Ferrite's block High Frequency (Not DC). A Zener Diode is what blocks overvoltage (This is most likely what the EMP protection device is).... you want both for full protection
So what would you buy to prevent the mp from killing your vehicle ?
@@planb626 A bicycle.... (rofl)
Realistically, given that any amount of wire is going to be a receiver for the EMF/EMP to cause damage (The longer the wire the higher potential for damage) I'd start by protecting the ECU and Battery... That would require some pretty nifty wiring though.. given that an ECU may have over 100 wires going to it and each would need to get protected....
A carbureted engine would be easier to protect.
Toroid chokes block transients very well. That's why they are installed on almost every cable I own. They also block specific frequencies. Even DC is not static when it goes from off to on. A Zener Diode is a specially doped diode that allows an amount of current and voltage "the wrong way" but blocks the rest. I cannot imagine a zener being remotely fast enough to protect against a seriously fast transient. I think there's pretty damned fast shunting SCR's for that. OPA !
@@nonokodog622 SCR's might be good as well, but I've seen Zenier diodes used for ESD protection, so I think it varies and one would have to check the datasheet and for their particular use case. There are also Transient-voltage-suppression diode which could also work!
Like I said a bike is the safest bet .... (rofl) unless your bike uses a battery
@@nonokodog622 You'll need to watch at least 1000 more CZcams videos before jumping in the comments with ridiculous suggestions about Zener diodes and chokes. You don't even know what chokes are, apparently.
The real issue is the voltage inducing on control wires. With an EMP all the wires are going to act like an antenna. The battery will be seen as a dead short to the EMP. I built an EMP generator that creates an E1 and E2 pulsed field. At that power and frequency everything is seen as a capacitor and inductor. The SKIM module will be toast as it has a large antenna coil.
Depends on wavelength of the pulse. If the pulse is a long length, then the wires all pick up a voltage depending on their orientation to the field waves, but if it's a short wavelength, then the voltage will be sky high across say 1CM (1/2 inch for Americans insisting on using antique units) of wire but will be 0 across a longer section of wire and then back to sky high as you move the probes so they fall on parts of the wire that are at different points of the wave... but the net current flow induced (and therefore voltage) should be low or unpredictable for the devices attached on either end. placing some cheap MOV (metal oxide varistors) on each wire to ground with a spark gap for absolute stupid amounts of voltage would EMP proof the cable and attached devices against long waves and some short waves, then again, so would twisting the wires around a "ground" or some form of differential wire as is used by differential signaling for long distances to avoid noise and electrical impulses (See USB cables, thunderbolt, displayport, ETHERNET, and even modern telephone wires especially if they are used for DSL internet). Failing that you could shield the wires not that differently from HDMI, Thunderbolt, Display-Port, and Cat 6A ETHERNET, a simple tin foil shield that is grounded would all but EMP proof the wires.
Trouble really arises for shorter wavelengths. If a long wavelength hits your ECU, the entire ECU sees the wave at once and the difference between each side is quite small, a tiny tiny tiny portion of the total amplitude or wave height, so tiny that it won't hurt it unless a wave hit it that was so powerful it would also melt the car's body from the induced currents... at which point whether the ECU is fried or is literally burned by the molten body is fairly irrelevant. TO protect against this, the best way is a faraday cage, either park inside a metal container that is grounded, or wrap the ECU in foil and ground that to the car body, for the extra paranoid you can drop a ground wire from the body to the earth and drag it behind you if you care for extra grounding than what is possible through your tires.
An EMP weapon I assume would either use a long ass wave length to damage the power grid... but would only blow fuses and the lines would be fine, it would suck for anything not surge protected though, like what happens to the grid each time a bolt of lightning strikes near the wires but not a direct hit, that creates a massive surge up and down the line. Fuses would blow and leave us in the dark. But if there are short wavelengths too as I assume some weapons may generate either intentionally or unintentionally, these would physically be about the length of the ECU or even the chips inside the ECU, and as they wash over the ECU they would place an extreme induced current across all the ECU parts both forward and reverse currents which create back EMF from the solid state components acting as diodes and blocking the reverse current... this then blows the chips up. Need to wrap the ECU and other computers in a faraday cage to prevent this, probably easiest and cheapest to use aluminum foil sandwich wrap.
@asificam1 yup that's what I noticed it did. Emp simulator was built from a spiral line driving a fractal style HDTV antenna with a bit of copper clad as the ground plane, then used a small satellite dish to stack the modes on top of each other. The center was tuned using an inductor. All of it was submerged in transformer oil. The thing made pulses that peaked well into the MV per meter range and had a rise time of about 4nS with ringing lasting for a few tens of nanoseconds. The most expensive part was the oil believe it or not. The HV generator itself was made of Bakers and chefs heavy duty foil rolled like s jelly roll with several turns of the outer foil in the middle. A spark gap made of ice maker tubing was the switch that triggered the pulse. Electrically it acts like a tidal wave that creates a massive current that when it hits the shallow bits it becomes a tsunami of voltage that is compressed in time. Rise time is 60ns. This hits the fractal antenna and all sorts of nonlinear effects occur creating everything from microwaves to AM bands, these are all stacked by the dish on top of one another compressing the EM pulse further to about 4nS rise time.. fast pulses of powerful RF like this do not see electronics as anything other than capacitors, inductors, and antennas. ❤️
@@christopherleubner6633When you make varying wavelengths you get varying effects. A long wavelength would have little effect on the smaller circuits because if the wave is tens of meters, then the tiny hand size circuit is across a very small part of the wave and so only gets a tiny tiny tiny voltage, but a larger circuit like the grid can see the full voltage of the wave. The reverse is true to shorter waves. At the right wavelengths, electronics act as inductors and capacitors as you say, generally these effects become a problem when the circuit is about half a wavelength in length, at that point you need to treat signals as radio waves not as currents. Having a spiked square wave is probable the most destructive as square waves cannot and do not exist anywhere except on paper, so the universe imposes some bandwidth limit which creates high frequencies with a massive spike and then dip as it rings and overshoots. A square wave is basically made of infinite frequencies and so will generate all frequencies that your system can oscillate at. If the receiver can't oscilate at those high frequencies then you get higher amplitude ringing artifacts for even more destruction.
@@christopherleubner6633 I would be very curious to see your simulator and run some tests on video with it. If you're in the Tristate i would come and pay for it.
In the 1970s people could fit a rubber strap to the rear bumper that would drag along the road & supposedly prevented passengers from getting 'car sickness ' . I don't know if it worked but something similar could be used for the EMP issue.
or just unplug the battery
The strap has a trace wire in it to discharge built up static , like the grounding wire that must be connected before refueling an Aeroplane .
Some branded tires also have a carbon in them to fix this issue .
If you want to make your own "EMP Shield" device , it's called a capacitor
Oh wait your ECU already has caps in it to fix this as the ignition and alternator boot out so much voltage ripple it makes a solar flare look like a match stick
🤣🤣🤣
Pretty sure anyone who sees your car still running after an emp , and they need a car... are going to go all in on getting that car from you... plus, there won't be much gas/diesel soon after an attack.
If this really works, we need this for homes and their generators.
Have seen the first part with the three battery connections but don't understand the second part with the two little parts (Faraday Defense). If you have an EMP Shield why do you need the "Faraday Defense?"
A great idea...for the seller.
1. Make a device that has a very good warranty....which of course when the event happens you have no way of claiming the warranty.
2. The testing on the devices are NOT tested with the amount of EMP we would experience.
3. Lets assume that the devices work, there is a huge EMP and your car is one of the very few that works. How long before everyone else try's to take your vehicle by force? Everyone from local hoodlums to law enforcement to government agencies need to confiscate it? So you have a vehicle that works but can't drive it anywhere.
Having a running vehicle paints a HUGE target on your back.
4. You have to also consider there will be nowhere to get fuel if the power grid is down so what you have stored is all you will have. That's why I have a smaller atv because the 250 get around 75 mpg.
I have an older 250 cc. atv that has very little electronics on it and I have ordered all spare electrical parts and have the stored in a very good Faraday cage. If an emp or cme hits then after a good wait I will swap out the old parts and be good. The plan is to stay away from people and just use the atv to haul meat back from the woods.
Exactly. My thoughts exactly 🐾🐕🐶 Where are these people intending on driving to? Roads would be impassable with disabled vehicles. No fuel at gas stations after a few days.
Essentially the first device uses an MOV (metal-oxide varistor), the MOV, essentially acts as an avalanche diode and will shunt a high volt to spike to ground. There are so many things wrong with what you’ve said in this video it’s hard to even begin to address them. Vehicles don’t have a neutral. They have a ground. There is a difference between, a neutral and a ground in conventional AC electrical systems however, in a vehicle, there is less differentiation between the neutral and the ground. This is because the entire chassis of the vehicle is assumed to be ground in most vehicles. In this condition, there is very little electrical potential difference throughout the vehicle.
If we look at the second solution that you are implementing, which is a ferrite based approach. This is referred to as a choke in electrical terms. That approach works by reducing transient spikes. If you think about what you’re doing here, the goal is to get transient voltage shunted to ground. However, by adding the second solution, you are actually inhibiting that transient from passing through the ground cable back to the battery and to the MOV, that’s attached. The result is that you are combining two solutions that should not be combined in that manner. I believe if you wanted to add the choke on the positive terminal it may be helpful in reducing the amplitude of a high frequency spike. However, a much more effective solution would be to install an inductor in series with the positive lead from the battery. Similarly, you could build a much better power control system by adding capacitors in parallel with the battery. Those things would be much more effective than the approaches used here.
Various people have commented here on whether or not this solution could be tested. I believe this could be tested using something like a very large Tesla coil. The thing I would point out is that you really need to keep all of these transient away from all of the digital components in the vehicle, which would be , an incredibly difficult thing to do. Those types of things need to be addressed at the engineering stage of each one of those components. Things like this are commonly done routinely by using a ground, plane in circuit boards and by using proper power supplies within those components. However, when you start throwing a few million volts at a vehicle that doesn’t actually have an earth ground. The entire chassis of the vehicle will be energized in the event of an EMP or high voltage situation. I believe at very high voltages you would experience an arc to ground as the spike occurs. I generally think while people may be wanting solutions like this, that these solutions are probably ineffective, since there is no earth ground on a vehicle. On the other hand solutions like this are common in data centers which are carefully engineered and which have an Earth ground. The problem in theory is that the EMP is transferring energy to electrical devices through radio frequencies. So, in order to deal with this, protected electrical equipment, such as data centers need to be encased in Faraday cage. Ships in the US military have radio rooms that are especially designed to deal with EMP and the lengths that are taken to protect those systems are extraordinary. Sadly is very difficult to replicate anything even close to that in a vehicle.
And this is the only comment in this thread, that is made by someone who actually knows how electronics work and makes sense. The guy in the video was never told to attach a ferrite choke to the negative battery lead. He just wants to sell more snake oil to boost his commissions.
The Red is + positive, the Black is - negative, the Green is - negative in your car. Nothing goes to 'ground' since your tires isolate the vehicle from the earth . You have created a circuit between the positive and negative dumping any 'surge' back into the battery. That is how I see it electrically. I'll guess there are Mosfets in these little boxes to absorb the surge.
Will the device be effective when jump starting your car?
Excellent content !
What about electric cars ?
- Is is possible to use an EMP shield device (or equivalent) inside the car ?
- Any alternative to a faraday cover ?
- Would ferrites on the charging wire be useful ?
Have a great day everybody !
NO!!!!!!!
If your vehicle survives an EMP attack, that wouldn't do any good because you will need gasoline to power your vehicle. Gas pumps use an electric motor to pump the gasoline from the ground tank into the fuel tank in your vehicle. The EMP will most likely wipe out the electric motor in the gas pump, so no gasoline is going into your vehicle's fuel tank.
Though different, I had a surge suppressor on my home electrical panel. When a surge hit my house from the power company, the device literally blew apart into pieces, and I lost a garage door opener, microwave, multiple hard wired smoke detectors (which shot blue fire out of one in the living room), 5 light timer in-wall switches, a home stereo and TV. I even had 6 Hubble Surge receptacles in the house and each one of them burned out. I don't have much faith in these things.
Does it protect against EMPs from
The Policeman that’s the real question .
Solar flares really when and where I have never experienced it ever
NICE
12 V DC trap 😅😂😅😂😅 nice usage of electronic terms, I have some land East of Florida for sale too
Are these effective against military grade EMPs?
As SMALL as these devices are, how much energy can they possibly absorb?
Wish I would have had one 3 years ago little bed liner pray and a double coat.But that looks simplar.Never seen all seals blown I was like wow scrap it get a junk car and fix up.
After reading some thoughtful comments and responding to a few, I think I've wrapped my head around this a little better.
Do not shunt high voltage to ground on the battery. If that did work, you'd be creating a negative really high voltage on the positive. Remember that Voltage is short hand for "potential difference", or Delta V.
If put 100KV on the black wire then the red one will read -100KV.
But really, the whole damned chasis is what's getting energized by ions in a solar flare or EM waves in an EMP. So how would "grounding' the ground help ???
I think the clear choice is the toroid clip on chokes added all over the vehicle. That will probably fuck up my trucks radios and do I'm not going near that. But I also don't think a vehicle has enough surface area to gather enough voltage to matter all that much.
I am more worried now about my home. Good video.
Ok seriously though,
The EMP shield connects to chassis ground which the battery is already connected to through a much larger gauge cable, so considering the chassis electrical system already has a very large current/ voltage dump capacity into the chassis by design what exactly does the EMP shield do again?...
It gives you some pretty little LED lights to make believe it is actually doing something.
It takes your money.
NOTHING!
So how come cars are generally ok after being hit by lightening??
@ThePitStopTirePros:
Have you guys tried to test how or if, these devices affect the process of jump-starting a weak or dead battery, with either jumper-cables or the more modern jumper boxes?
We had one vehicle that had the faraday defense installed on the battery and the battery had gone low enough not to start on its own. The operation of jumpstarting with another vehicle and a jump pack were both normal until the battery was replaced and devices reinstalled on the new battery.
Better ? What's the point?
Just to let you guys know: For a vehicle, $386 for the old design, $449 for the newer smaller module. For a house $389 (which is the same big box as the old design for the cars)
Id like to see them in action so we can see they actually work. at $500 after taxes, that is one hell of a price. I am pretty sure one can be made cheaper?
Do they work though?
Great demo! What size would I need for a Tesla Model Y?
I’ve had conversations with the manufacturers about Teslas. Unfortunately there’s nothing that could be added to a Tesla vehicle as that would void all warranties. Which is also why there’s pretty much no third party companies that make anything for Teslas, other than possibly seat covers. This is also true for most all electric vehicles. Hybrids use a 12 battery so they are an exception.
@@ThePitStopTirePros Thank you for the reply and insight.
Would it be a viable option or over kill to use all these items at the same time? Also could you even use both of these options at the same time?
I wonder if all would help. Expensive doesn't mean functional. He talks HF but solar EMP is a long wave.
You don’t need it and I’ll explain why in the comments
@@matthewcaughey8898 OK,
What about the computer in the vehicle? What about the magnets in the alternator?
Excellent concerns! It's been nearly 60 years since I worked with shielding as an aircraft radio repairman but I would assume the computers are as vulnerable but a separate issue from the battery. They usually have components that remain charged after a power disconnect. I categorize most of the products and teachings on CZcams as "snake oil" and wouldn't trust any of them. An example; Why trust a mechanic to explain electronic theory? Also, it seems a main disconnect at the battery would do a better job, albeit a pain?
@@jackriley5974 Tire specialist?
Maybe you can just recharge the magnets with magnet blocks hidden away, and store the board on the firewall into a special cage
@@goldinator I think there are tremendous losses between the charging field and residual magnetic energy in the target device. IE 500T results in 5T? I can't specify to accuracy, as it's not one of my fields, but I am aware of efficiency losses in many things.
Not that your proposal isn't valid, just difficult. And I wouldn't count on magnets de energizing, as we can still read magnetic polarity in antique ice that is easily 12,000 years old, and each 12,000 years it changes. Gonna happen again soon.
@@bryanst.martin7134 lmao
Am not worried i still run points
EMP and Electrical surge from lightning or anything like that, are totally different events. They differ in their nature, causes, effects, range, and required protection measures you will need to apply to your vehicle.
And where does it go after it reaches the chassis?
Back into the system through negative or chassis ground. Unless you want to provide a sizeable ground chain or other connection to Earth. You are introducing capacitance into parts of the vehicle that may cause problems with the existing systems.
What would happen if you had a Tesla or something?
Can I use both products together? Ie.. EMP shield and plug in TRAP..
Technically yes, both could be used. Might be a little overkill and more expensive. If you want to understand more on how each device works checkout EMP Doctor on CZcams. Dr Arthur Bradley, as he gets into all of the science of how all the different kinds of shunts and traps work.
Even if your car works, where will you go? The roads will be clogged.
So..if it dumps it in to the ground, hows it getting thier, your sitting on 4 rubber isolators and have nothing touching the ground to direct the power to the ground. As far as dumping into the car body, whats the point of that, your car body acts as a Faraday cage. If an emp or cme hits, its going to come threw in random place, so its going to fry anything in its path, how are those products going to capture the extra voltage from going threw the electronics?
Tires aren't rubber and haven't been for a long, long time. They are made from nylon mostly.
Would it work on a hybrid?
🤣😂👍
Maybe I'm missing something here, but how would those small gauge wires on these devices handle the AMPERAGE produced by all that electricity in an EMP?
Here is the link to all the third party testing compliance.www.empshield.com/testing/
Please explain how this works. Because I don’t understand how this works. A DC system doesn’t have a neutral. Only a positive and a ground. Now I understand that a neutral in an AC system makes its way to earth, ground, but is a completely different system. Your vehicle isn’t grounded to earth. And shunting the voltage to vehicle ground, won’t that just put the voltage into the negative side of the battery and every other electrical part in said vehicle? I’m not trying to be difficult but I don’t think that this item would work the way it is claimed to work.
It doesn't theoretically, if there was a voltage that was say either backwards or a voltage that was way way too high for a cars 12 volt system (so above the usual 14 volts the alternator makes to charge the battery) these devices claim to act like an AC surge suppressor and its MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) which short out the high or reverse voltage and drain the energy before it blows up the electronics. Here is the issue, ALL signal wires will also pick up the signal wires, and the 12 volt power wires are themselves filtered internally by the computers as they can't cope with how shitty the alternator is at maintaining constant voltage, the alternator sags low under high load and if the RPM falls, and it spikes if the RPM rises and the electrical load is suddenly removed. You can see your lights flicker if they're the wrong kind of cheap LED replacement when you activate high loads like rear defrost or plug in a high load 12 volt device at low rpm with small alternators for that reason. The field coil current can't change fast enough, in the time of a flicker, most cheap and shitty microcontrollers and other CPUs execute anywhere from a few thousand instructions to a few million instructions, this would cause a crash if you're lucky. So the computers have their own power supply circuits that step up and step down the dirty, spiky, ripply DC power from the engine and make it clean and constant with a few thousandths of a volt of ripple (+/-0.001V). The signal wires may not be as protected, so not protecting them with a MOV across them and ground means that the most protected lines are protected right next to the giant battery which protects them anyhow, and the more delicate, sensitive, and less protected lines are left exposed.
Just wrap computers in tin foil that you connect to the vehicle body (ground), twist exposed wires so that induced fields cancel themselves, wrap the wires you can in foil that is grounded, and keep a spare ECU handy in a faraday cage box. These scam products only protect you against say the alternator suddenly spiking more than the battery can absorb. They can't protect against and EMP, ask any electronics guy why and his answer will be similar to mine.
Also your car already acts like a faraday cage anyhow as your car body is made of metal which is usually rather conductive and is wrapped around the ECU which again resembles a faraday cage. Only the bottom of the engine bay and the headlights are places that the EMP could enter. And even then, only some frequencies will significantly make it across the bend. Trouble is that you're likely going to be fried because the exposed radio antenna for the radio and the antenna that your remote uses to talk to the car, and the antennas inside the cabin for keyless start or the NFC coils on the ignition for regular key start would also pick up the EMP.
Most modules are EMP shielded internally and externally.
I am not an electrical engineer but I am really confused by this. As I understand it, any electronic item that has wires attached to it is at risk as the wires would act as antennas for the energy of an EMP. So we have shielding devices supposedly protecting the battery of the vehicle which by design should be safe anyway. However, none of these protect the wires going to the ECU or the computer for the transmission. So how do these items keep the vehicle running exactly?
By the faith of those who buy them. It's a snake oil.
Here's the problem I don't know if that works. You can show how to install aluminum can underneath the car. It doesn't mean that would work either. Show it working.
Do they actually work
What good would EMP protection for your vehicle be when all the gas stations would become inoperable with a high energy EMP? EMP protection for your vehicle would only provide the miles provided by the gas remaining in your tank.
@@CapObvious4271 Even if you own additional vehicles with full fuel tanks that still wouldn't last you very long. An EMP attack would take down the entire electrical grid in this country. And that would return us to the dark ages with probability for survival very similar to that in the stone age.
And if you're telling us that you'd resort to thievery, then essentially, you're subscribing to a dog-eat-dog strategy which is nothing short of racing to the very bottom of human barbarism. That's a failed strategy for surviving an atomic attack and would produce a world I wouldn't want to live in.
The real answer for America is for our government to stop sending hundreds of BILLIONS each year in borrowed dollars to countries failing to pull their own economic weight and instead harden our electrical grid while simultaneously building an impenetrable wall on our northern and southern borders.
@@fhiggenbottom @@fhiggenbottom with millions of cars left dead on the road it wouldn't take much to start a chain reaction of explosions from cars with full fuel tanks. The vast majority of these cars will most likely be left to rot where they stopped. Id like to see it as my way of limiting the resulting explosion, fireball and destruction from said 'explosion'. Perhaps I'm wrong but It sounds as if you are insinuating someone will resort to stealing and pillaging as a matter of course or way of life. No, that is not what I am saying. Getting one tank or two tanks of fuel to get "the hell outta Dodge" and back home is hardly making it a lifestyle. If you are so inclined you can leave cash on the window but at that point cash would probably become worthless quickly.
@@CapObvious4271 Au contraire! There's a HUGE difference between a disabled and an abandoned vehicle. And leaving money on the windshield of a disabled vehicle for pilfered fuel when the owners didn't agree to the transaction is by any definition theft. Theft which would prevent them from driving their vehicles home when successfully repaired.
And just what, in your mind, would start a "chain reaction" of explosions in disabled cars with full fuel tanks? That doesn't make sense because it never happens to cars in large parking lots or dealerships with hundreds of cars on the ot nor at large companies like GM who can have thousands of cars in their employee parking lots.
Only people stealing gas from those vehicles and attempting to hide the evidence would start such a chain reaction.
The point I made is that the effectiveness of EMP protection is limited for our vehicles and expectations that it would allow our vehicles to be used for very long is a complete and total myth.
Doesn’t the key fob have to be protect too?
If it’s a keyless system for ignition then yes as the RFID signal used to start the vehicle would still be used and therefore need protection. The key would need to be in a faraday bag. If it’s a keyed ignition with a key fob the fob would most likely short, but still be able to start the engine.
I guess using the first two options wouldn´t be a problem as well...
Is there anything available to protect all the electronics in a camper trailer?
More than likely there’s a model will suit that particular setup. I would call EMP shield or Faraday defense and asked them based on the electrical components that you are looking to protect.
I use the T.R.A.P. that goes across my battery terminals on my camper.
My answer is a 1960’s muscle car.
What happens if you utilized TRAP and EMP shield on the same vehicle ?
Short answer is it will increase the broad range of the protection for all circuitry. Our interview with NASA Scientist Dr. Arthur Bradley (aka EMP Doctor) will air in the beginning of June as we answer all of the pressing question in our Q&A with him so stay tune and subscribe so you don’t miss it.
Cool. Looking forward to it.
What if you disconnect your battery.will an emp still affect your electronics
Even if the battery is disconnected the large and small conductors which are nearly every wire in the vehicle, and of which very few are shielded will still absorb and distribute the pulse from incoming EMP. The shield is essentially a surge protection device, which vehicles can handle some kinds of surges within their system but not large surges and not typically fast enough as to not overheat and fry small circuits. The Emp shield detects over surges between 16-20 amps or more and shunts them within a fraction of a second. There’s no method on any factory built vehicle that could provide this type of protection. Which is why this device is utilized by the DOD.
This device protects the car about the same as the battery does just by being connected... the excess charges would charge the battery or actively fight the battery which is rather large and can absorb small transients quite nicely as it does when the car is running and the alternator field coil strength can't change fast enough to stabilize the voltage as the RPM or load changes suddenly (Alternators kind of suck at maintaining a constant voltage). This device is probably internally a lot like a surge suppressor power bar you buy at the store for most electronics. Probably just a few MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) and maybe a spark gap if they want to stop a HUGE transient. So if you take off the battery but leave this on, it will be a lot like the battery is still there because this would clamp the induced voltage to whatever they're rated to clamp at.
But this does NOTHING to protect the delicate electronics themselves nor the signal wires in the wire harness which are quite vulnerable, nor does it stop the cars antennas from frying anything that's connected to them too.... so your car wont hear your key fob anymore, and all the electronics will still be fried anyhow. Want to protect the electronics? The car body is a faraday cage because it's made of metal which last I checked was rather electrically conductive. Place metal sheet around any holes in the engine bay like under the engine where you change oil, leave a hole or a mesh that you can remove to change oil and filters. Shield the wire harness, and then also place MOVs onto the signal wires where possible at either end of the wires. Any electronics outside the engine bay you want to have working should then be surrounded by metal which is connected to the car body, tin foil is fairly cheap and works shocking well in a pinch, even electronics guys like me have used it for protecting naked chips and power MOSFETS from static discharge which is far more powerful than an EMP because static discharge is right on the device where an EMP has to be picked up the by the circuitry first.
Protecting against an EMP is cheap but requires a shit load of work. Easier to just keep a spare ECU in a faraday cage just in case. And also this product protects at the battery which essentially does its job for it... while being inside the most shielded part of the car... turns out metal cages for engine bays are inherently good at stopping EMPs as well as holding the engine inside the car. Do not buy unless you are worried about like accidentally having the alternator try to put out 24 volts on a 12 volt system... this can stop that, but it wont do squat against an EMP.
Electrical circuit on a vehicle voltage charge is significant absorb explosion occurs circuit overload
It’s not about one (1) EMP-it’s gonna be about multiple EMP’s day after day-prepare to survive without the car-you’ll be done for sure driving around.
how do you prove that they actually work?
Through third party testing:
link here www.empshield.com/testing/
I purchased an EMP Shield for my solar controller. It totally discharged my batteries and damaged the controller forcing me to buy another. I'd NEVER advise someone to buy this thing as they do NOT stand behind their warranty. Incidentally, they have NOT adequately tested this thing so there's no proof that it will actually work.
HOW WAS THIS EQUIPMENT TESTED ?
The link to Dr Arthur Bradley (NASA engineer) and chief scientist of Faraday Defense is in the description. Faraday defense is also a retail of the EMP Shield devices.
because either of those things mean actually anything. None of these will protect your ECU, have fun starting without that in a modern vehicle.@@ThePitStopTirePros
A friend who works in a buddy shop told me of a customer car that was towed in had been directly hit by lightning. He basically said that every module in that car were basically toast. Several of which were blown open. Fact, if anything is directly hit by lightning, there is nothing that protect any electronics in that item. If a static spark one gets from walking on a carpet floor and the touching a metal object reaches a voltage of around 8-10 thousand volts to jump a gap of 1/4 inch, well that lightning bolt just traveled a mile plus to discharge that static imbalance will be well over several million volts and about one thousand amps plus. Nothing on todays market will protect an electronic item. As for EMP'S it is dependent on the size and altitude a nuke is detonated in the atmosphere as well as to lateral distance to you.
It's called a Carburator
I just don't see how this would actually work compared to a full House in EMP shield. The reason I say this is because the full House goes to Earth ground the car has no Earth ground. The chassis and the battery are pretty much almost at the same potential so the juice from the EMP would have nowhere to go. When you look at the house it sends it straight to Earth ground which makes more sense. But when you have a car that has four insulated tires all it does is stay in the car. Now I did see somebody say you shouldn't have to worry about your car from an EMP. And then another person I see that had posted one time that EMP shield never did any testing for a car like they did for a house.
The commonly missed and most important part of the discussion for these devices is testing and use cases. Below is the link to the third party testing. By far the most critical responses more likely than not haven’t gone to the lengths of reading all of the test results, or military requirements that the company must abide by to be able to have these devices installed on many government vehicles.
www.empshield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/EMP_Shield_Military_Testing_16_March_2019_Public2.pdf
www.empshield.com/testing/
It's impossible to test these devices to ensure they will actually protect what they are supposed to protect. Once an EMP actually exists, it will be too late if it doesn't work as advertised. $25,000 for lightning strike may or may not be enough to replace your entire electrical system. Todays vehicles could have an awful lot of expensive computers onboard
Dr. Bradley knows what he's doing. Knows his craft well.
Craft of BS marketing lol
@@neuroplasticmef1517 ...,😲
A system exist that can fry any vehicles computer. It contains 50000 watts of rf radiation concentrated into a unidirectional antenna. The system was created by a buddy of mine for tailgaters.
So do any of these products claim to be good for more than one hit? If its an emp attack. Supposedly they hit once. Then when everyone's broken everything out of their farady bags, they send another emp
Emps hit in three patterns Em1, Em2, Em3. Each outputting different waves lengths. The Emp shield protects against all three. The only protection (Emp shield) they have said is a single instance of is a lightning strike, in which case they request the product sent back and a replacement is issued for $50. They will use the damage device for research. Because most of the talked about devices main function is redirection of heat and excessive electric frequency away from sensitive components like chips and sensors, multiple hits should be feasible to all devices listed.
@@ThePitStopTirePros appreciate the response. Thank you 😊
Just by a ballast resistor
Have anything for ebikes
Most e-bike setups are a closed pack system, but if your bike is plugged in to a house or building setup with a 140k amp surge protection device like the main service EMP shield then the bike would be protected by the whole house circuit protection.
@@ThePitStopTirePros well I was hoping there was a way to protect an ebikes all of the time not just at home I guess I could just buy extra parts and store them in a Faraday box. Thank you for getting back to me
At times I get it wrong as we all do .
But I have worked in the Electronics industry for years from wiring Homes, Building Avionics systems and aircraft from scratch in the LSA aircraft world.
Have worked in undercover DEA aircraft and was told I help install the first Collings Fiber Optic HF system in an undercover DEA Aircraft close to 30 years ago.
And at times get it wrong as we all do.
But if you put your Cellphone into a Microwave oven it's going to be Hit with a large amount of EMF power and cellphones have larger amounts of shielding in then as I have taken some of them apart, as once I took a Coper apart and i mean apart to study it,
Your cell phone would be cook, Now thanks of a high energy wave of power crossing ever wire in the car and spiking the voltage in ever wire and Sensors wires that do not connect to the main battery Bus but to the ECM or Cars computer and all it takes id one mane sensor to burn out like the CSPS, MAP and the cars computer has no data and the cars dead.
If its a larger EMF we may all loose
Remember Gas Pumps will go down as well along with Cellphones
Just drive a pre-70's army jeep with a stick shift.
Newbie question... are these all (that includes the EMP Shield) best used together or would that potential make one or the other ineffective. In other words, does having them all provide max protection or is the EMP shield more than enough protection on its own?
Most of the best information on the subject comes from Dr Bradley (aka EMP Doc) and his studies and research. But TRAPS are typically most effective as a multi unit protection which would always depend on the proximity to Emp emission from its source point. Which is why Dr Bradley suggest multiple point of protection, TRAP on battery TRAPs in 12v outlets inside the vehicle. These are somewhat inconvenient as they take us space in your outlets. The EMP shield is a single point of contact shunt that acts like a surge protection device rated for the speed that an EMP would hit, at a fraction of 1 second. EMP shield is more expensive and they also make a home protection device as well which Dr Bradley also advocates for on his website. Bottom line I don’t think having all of them would make sense but more one or the other. We use both companies for our own personal capacities, vehicle protection, home protection and solar array protection.
@@ThePitStopTireProsThanks for the detailed response, much appreciated... and yes, Dr Bradley explains things very well - just watching one of his videos.
Is this You need when a UFO is hovering over Your car?
Interesting device. But I'm more concerned with prepping food in a SHTF scenario than prepping a car that i probably wouldn't be able to drive for long if all the gas stations are down due to an EMP attack. Even if you store gasoline, it's only good for 6 months to a year.
Food prep is a great plan as well as all your primary location provisions. Yet if you are in a SHTF scenario you might not be home at your primary location or may have to shift to a secondary location. Most modern vehicles have plastic tanks and getting more fuel from downed abandoned vehicles wouldn’t be very hard. With a 20-30 mile average that a person can walk per day with limited weight, a running vehicle can be a valuable asset.
@@ThePitStopTirePros Good points👍🏻
Get a diesel vehicle. Diesel is just oil. You can run a diesel on any clean oil you can get. That said a moving vehicle will be a target if all the other ones are broke
If you are on the road and say this does work you will still be stranded. All the vehicles without it will be dead and blocking you. And when those panicked people see your vehicke running you better be ready to protect it or give it up. Same for bugging out. If your not there chances are your not getting there
This probably will not work. I would have to see real testing to believe. The only sure way would be to put the entire vehicle in a Faraday cage. But, you might not be able to drive far since gas stations or charging stations would be knocked out too.
The vehicle body acts as the cage to protect the electronics. See the New Mexico tech EMP tests. You’ll find automotive electronics are significantly more robust then people give them credit for
I think you mean high amperage*, car batteries aren’t high voltage as the highest voltage in a cars battery system is nowhere above 15v
Its a ballast resistor don't let them full u
Purchase a bicycle and don’t make the mistake of thinking you have enough ammo.
Another way to make money from the sheeple. Many will fall for this.
What about the Distributor?
Fear sells
All the doomsday preppers are pulling out their cash right now 😂