Would be better off putting a layer of insulation board like Cellotex with grab adehsive on the walls and floor and then glass on top. Better for heat retention and laying the fiberglass render loves to hold damp and in the end can crack the glass.
Nice size pond. I think the skimmer would have been better installed using an extension across the block work rather than chiselling out the blockwork. Also I would like to see some filtration on the skimmer before it goes back to the pond. Thanks for sharing Lee.
Yes skimmer extension does make for a cleaner install. But I am sure the wall is more than strong enough. The skimmer has a basket in it for collection the surface leaves etc. Maybe one day they might add something like a shower and that would give some extra biological filtration.
Stuart used several screw in ties to help tie the dividing wall in. With those blocks flat side down and the addition of the fibreglass I doubt it will go far. Fingers crossed lol.
I have a plan to build a 4.5m x 2m raised bed (outer) with 7N 140mm solid concrete blocks (27kg) height will be 4 courses high (225mm x 4) from just below ground level Do you think those blocks would be strong enough laid in the 140mm wide configuration? to support an incorporated small pond at one end, probably have it as a 3 course high with coping stones. Only perhaps 600mm x 2000mm for a water feature with some small fish in it. I think it'd be plenty strong enough but looking around the internet I see some folks building seriously beefy walls and started having doubts. I'm currently digging out the footings for concrete backfill those will be a good 300mm pluss deep
I know a lot of ponds are over engineered. But the effect of years of moisture freezing in the mortar might weaken the structure. If in any doubt lay them flat or brick up the front to strengthen.
Nice video Lee 👍 Always like to see a pond build video. Why wasn't the BD piped straight to the Nexus, rather than to the corner, and then across to the Nexus in the filter bay? Less bends means more flow, doesn't it? Stay safe.
Yes that would have been better. To keep the pond as large as possible it was decided to make the filter chamber slightly smaller and that required a modification to the bottom drain. The intended flow was well within the capability of the 4in pipe so extra bends will have no negative impact.
@@MickRiley yes your right 90 do restrict the flow. As do all fittings to some degree or another. Even straight run of pipe will have effect. However for the flow required here about 1500 gallon per hour through the Nexus. There will be no problem at all. Nexus will work better with a more moderate flow. Also there is a significant price difference between swept fittings and standard.
@@leecalladine ive just ordered a tonne of plastering sand if id of known cause ive git a tonne of yellow lol keep up the good videos mate loving them learning loads
The skimmer is there to draw in some water off the very top of the pond. It has a basket inside it to collect leaves or un eaten food etc. It prevents the greasy proteins layer from building up on the surface. By connecting it directly to the pump you can get a good pull on it and regulate this with a valve. Also if this was to be taken to the filtration system it potentially would reduce the pull on the bottom drain and reduce its efficiency. I know some people set them up running into the filter but I have always done it this way and got excellent results. You could also run an independent pump for the skimmer but If its done that way and a blockage obstructs the skimmer, there would be no water for the pump and it might burn out the pump.
@@leecalladine greasy proteins will pass through its no more than surface leaf and debris collector and nothing else unless directed to a filter, maybe a little bit of biomass would be in the pipework nothing else.
need help have pond one air pump fitting 18mm I need to adapt to 8mm air pipe any ideas? The pump came with a rubber tube that is about 18mm but can not seem to find a fitting for my large air stone that has a 8mm pipe.8
i agree that's a nightmare for bulb change and those push valves are junk and will not hold water back after a year of biomass build up, ball valves and rubber boots should be used where you need them glued pressure pipes a nightmare!
@@leecalladine You are lucky when it comes to no need for planning permission. Here in Oshawa, (southern Ontario Canada) any pond more than 24" deep requires a building permit, has strict regulations regarding placement when it come proximity to houses, fences, etc and the property must be properly fenced in on all sides. The build site must also be inspected by By-Law officers prior to starting construction and again once the pond is complete before water can be added. Safety first.
@@mykoiobsessionYes the laws are very different in other countries. I am surprised the UK councils aren't more strict, they don't normally miss a trick.
It's hard to give a price to build a Koi po d. There are many variables. But it could be anything from a few thousand. To much much more depending on how you go about it. How much work you do yourself etc.
Hi mate, where is the skimmer line going, into the nexus? Also you didn’t mention a purge valve for bottom drain and general waste, where does it go? Thanks
The skimmer is going to the pump. The skimmer has a basket inside to collect the leaves and uneaten food etc. There is no dedicated purge valve. I do agree it would be a nice feature to have a direct to waste purge. However it can be purged into the filter and this should be done regularly.
@@leecalladine got you. So does does the skimmer return with the filtration or does it have a separate outlet? Sorry for questions but I’m planning a pond myself.
Lee question please is there any reason i cannot render my pond in 3 hits as its to big for me to do in one hit its going to be painted with the two pack epoxy
Hi, I am going to install 3 bottom drain when I do my pond, the wall & floor will be Sleepers which I already have, they are painted with Bitumen (except the outerside), making it waterproof, I will cover the underside of the base with tarpaulin & cement the inside floor with garden slabs & or waterproof plastic along with the inside walls. What do you think? I was unsure about the bottom drain as I was worried about them leaking the losing everything but I've read so many people regret not installing them, as I plan to have a 23 foot pond with a 3 foot dip to go under the bridge where I plan to put one of the & 1 at each end. I assume they don't feed on gravity. I had to have the column down on this video so didn't hear everything. Any advice? Thanks.
Bottom drain is the single biggest step in the right direction you can take when building a Koi pond. Very important. You wouldn't buy a land rover and not have it fitted with 4 wheel drive. I made a very comprehensive video about building Koi pond a few years ago. Still relevant I will post the link.
Yes definitely more robust ball valves.. But also bit more bulky and the valves on the nexus are ball valves. The slide valves would only leak back to the pond.
I do not like the that there is no filtration on the skimmer. Just like the 2" pump pipe work with the 90 degrea corners. This is causing so much loss of flow. Just a shame.
The pump is only pushing around 2000 gph. The friction loss is minimal. Like most things it could always be better, but is the juice worth the squeeze. I would always recommend increasing the diameter of the pipework to reduce friction. Often far less expensive and more effective than using swept bends.
My pond is 5000 gallons and is built exactly the same way, was constructed in 2005 and is still housing the same fish, so that's that theory debunked, and you obviously have no idea what fibreglass is if you think leaching is a problem
Well-done mate 👌
Finally ! Someone who speaks in clear terms . Some People on youtube really over complicating koi pond set up .
Hi Lee any tips on gluing bottom drain pipe work its being a bastard to push in dry fit and no glue added yet
Nice treat for me! Will be Lovely when finished. Thank You for sharing Lee.
Your very welcome. Thanks for commenting. More videos soon.
He makes it look so easy to do,great pond👍
Thanks for the comments. He's had years of practice.
It's looking good. Well thought out and nicely set up.
I look forward to see it complete. 😊👍
You look like Phil Collins. At the same time, the setup is superb.
Your not the first person to tell me that. Other have said i look like Kevin Spacey the least said about that the better.
Very easily you explain.. I always confuse how to nexus install but the way of explaining is too good.. you doing 👏👍👍
Thanks. Take care my friend.
Beautiful pond !
Will be great to see it with some fish in.
@@leecalladine keep us updated sir.
Would be better off putting a layer of insulation board like Cellotex with grab adehsive on the walls and floor and then glass on top. Better for heat retention and laying the fiberglass render loves to hold damp and in the end can crack the glass.
yeah this is pretty old school imo
it looks good sharing.keep safe always.ser you godbless
The pond is nearly finished now will be doing another video very soon.
Great video mate 👌
Proper job 👌👍
Yes it should last for years. Stuart will be pleased.
Very professional
Thanks. I think the pond owner will be happy with it.
Nice size pond. I think the skimmer would have been better installed using an extension across the block work rather than chiselling out the blockwork. Also I would like to see some filtration on the skimmer before it goes back to the pond. Thanks for sharing Lee.
Yes skimmer extension does make for a cleaner install. But I am sure the wall is more than strong enough. The skimmer has a basket in it for collection the surface leaves etc. Maybe one day they might add something like a shower and that would give some extra biological filtration.
@@leecalladine or a tempest. 👍
Love it!!!
can't wait to get back and see how its going.
Dividing wall not tied into the blockwork? Good luck with that!
Stuart used several screw in ties to help tie the dividing wall in. With those blocks flat side down and the addition of the fibreglass I doubt it will go far. Fingers crossed lol.
Should have bonded it really. I've seen some horror stories in my time.
Nice build looks amazing which would say is the best cement mix 4-1 OR 3-1 for the breeze blocks.
It wouldn't make much difference. Built like that of a concrete slab and fibreglass it will be there for 30 years.
Cinder block / mortor congratulations you just created a leaching problem of lime into the h20 leading to a back pocket drain issue.
Hope you havent fixed the UV to the wall to hard otherwisr you cant change bulbs. Im sure you used the quick release attachments
Nice pond
I have a plan to build a 4.5m x 2m raised bed (outer) with 7N 140mm solid concrete blocks (27kg) height will be 4 courses high (225mm x 4) from just below ground level
Do you think those blocks would be strong enough laid in the 140mm wide configuration? to support an incorporated small pond at one end, probably have it as a 3 course high with coping stones. Only perhaps 600mm x 2000mm for a water feature with some small fish in it.
I think it'd be plenty strong enough but looking around the internet I see some folks building seriously beefy walls and started having doubts.
I'm currently digging out the footings for concrete backfill those will be a good 300mm pluss deep
I know a lot of ponds are over engineered. But the effect of years of moisture freezing in the mortar might weaken the structure. If in any doubt lay them flat or brick up the front to strengthen.
Great job !
Great job, I liked it
Why skim the block work when you can put 10mm insulation on the walls a fibreglass straight onto a smooth surface.
Yes that's another way it can be done.
Nice video Lee 👍
Always like to see a pond build video.
Why wasn't the BD piped straight to the Nexus, rather than to the corner, and then across to the Nexus in the filter bay? Less bends means more flow, doesn't it?
Stay safe.
Yes that would have been better. To keep the pond as large as possible it was decided to make the filter chamber slightly smaller and that required a modification to the bottom drain. The intended flow was well within the capability of the 4in pipe so extra bends will have no negative impact.
@@leecalladine Looking forward to part 2.
90 degree bends restrict the flow, no matter if you are using high flow or low flow. swept bends are the only way to help reduce the effect.
@@MickRiley yes your right 90 do restrict the flow. As do all fittings to some degree or another. Even straight run of pipe will have effect. However for the flow required here about 1500 gallon per hour through the Nexus. There will be no problem at all. Nexus will work better with a more moderate flow. Also there is a significant price difference between swept fittings and standard.
Great build mate... however I think you might have messed up... how will you change the bulb on UV light without dismantling the unit from the loop?
This was always in the plan. its fitted with union couplings to enable it to be lifted up whilst changing.
Nice job lee well done Did you use yellow building sand for the render mate
Yes. 3 to 1 and I added some plasticizer. To make it a bit more workable.
@@leecalladine ive just ordered a tonne of plastering sand if id of known cause ive git a tonne of yellow lol keep up the good videos mate loving them learning loads
One question why doesn’t the skimmer go through for the filtration
The skimmer is there to draw in some water off the very top of the pond. It has a basket inside it to collect leaves or un eaten food etc. It prevents the greasy proteins layer from building up on the surface. By connecting it directly to the pump you can get a good pull on it and regulate this with a valve. Also if this was to be taken to the filtration system it potentially would reduce the pull on the bottom drain and reduce its efficiency. I know some people set them up running into the filter but I have always done it this way and got excellent results. You could also run an independent pump for the skimmer but If its done that way and a blockage obstructs the skimmer, there would be no water for the pump and it might burn out the pump.
great point
@@leecalladine greasy proteins will pass through its no more than surface leaf and debris collector and nothing else unless directed to a filter, maybe a little bit of biomass would be in the pipework nothing else.
Nice pond! Do you have a link for the Pontac pump? Thx
Rough as fuck. Blockwork should at very least be all tied in. And yes I know what I'm talking about im a master bricklayer.
plus the render is pointless with the advent of thermal foams etc that will give a smoother finish for the fibreglass guy
It hurt me when I saw the fella running those blocks in without a line. 😬 like a donkeys hind leg lol.
need help have pond one air pump fitting 18mm I need to adapt to 8mm air pipe any ideas? The pump came with a rubber tube that is about 18mm but can not seem to find a fitting for my large air stone that has a 8mm pipe.8
How will you replace the bulb in the UV as you’ll need to slide it out
Either side the UV there are threaded union couplings. The unit can easily be lift out up onto the side to allow for the bulb change.
i agree that's a nightmare for bulb change and those push valves are junk and will not hold water back after a year of biomass build up, ball valves and rubber boots should be used where you need them glued pressure pipes a nightmare!
Do you not need a pre filter before the nexus or is this not needed
The Nexus does not have a pre filtration. It's all built in.
👍👍
How come you don't use insulation boards instead of rendering?
Concerned about impact from pointed object puncturing the fibreglass.
Hi, I'm thinking to build a 13ft x 6ft undergrad pond (4 feet deep) and wonder do we need a planning permission to build a pond like this?
Unlikely. Ponds don't normally need any planning in the UK to my knowledge.
@@leecalladine You are lucky when it comes to no need for planning permission. Here in Oshawa, (southern Ontario Canada) any pond more than 24" deep requires a building permit, has strict regulations regarding placement when it come proximity to houses, fences, etc and the property must be properly fenced in on all sides. The build site must also be inspected by By-Law officers prior to starting construction and again once the pond is complete before water can be added. Safety first.
@@mykoiobsessionYes the laws are very different in other countries. I am surprised the UK councils aren't more strict, they don't normally miss a trick.
How mush do it cost for a fall set up offa koi pond 10x6x4. This is a nice set up.
It's hard to give a price to build a Koi po d. There are many variables. But it could be anything from a few thousand. To much much more depending on how you go about it. How much work you do yourself etc.
Hi mate, where is the skimmer line going, into the nexus? Also you didn’t mention a purge valve for bottom drain and general waste, where does it go? Thanks
The skimmer is going to the pump. The skimmer has a basket inside to collect the leaves and uneaten food etc. There is no dedicated purge valve. I do agree it would be a nice feature to have a direct to waste purge. However it can be purged into the filter and this should be done regularly.
@@leecalladine got you. So does does the skimmer return with the filtration or does it have a separate outlet? Sorry for questions but I’m planning a pond myself.
@@dougiemontana4815 The skimmer and filter are using same pump. The water is combined inside the pump and return to the pond via 2 return.
@@dougiemontana4815 czcams.com/video/J6CH39FPRps/video.html
@@dougiemontana4815 check out the full pond build. Its interesting and very detailed. Link posted.
Lee question please is there any reason i cannot render my pond in 3 hits as its to big for me to do in one hit its going to be painted with the two pack epoxy
No reason. Should be fine. The paint is not as good as fibreglass though.
@@leecalladine many thanks
The wall looks pissed and not level at the start
Hi,
I am going to install 3 bottom drain when I do my pond, the wall & floor will be Sleepers which I already have, they are painted with Bitumen (except the outerside), making it waterproof, I will cover the underside of the base with tarpaulin & cement the inside floor with garden slabs & or waterproof plastic along with the inside walls. What do you think?
I was unsure about the bottom drain as I was worried about them leaking the losing everything but I've read so many people regret not installing them, as I plan to have a 23 foot pond with a 3 foot dip to go under the bridge where I plan to put one of the & 1 at each end.
I assume they don't feed on gravity.
I had to have the column down on this video so didn't hear everything.
Any advice?
Thanks.
Bottom drain is the single biggest step in the right direction you can take when building a Koi pond. Very important. You wouldn't buy a land rover and not have it fitted with 4 wheel drive. I made a very comprehensive video about building Koi pond a few years ago. Still relevant I will post the link.
czcams.com/video/J6CH39FPRps/video.html
I also made one about sleeper ponds too. czcams.com/video/ng0bvRcAiPE/video.html
@@leecalladine Thanks. Appreciated
Would used ball values slide values leak not most reliable
Yes definitely more robust ball valves.. But also bit more bulky and the valves on the nexus are ball valves. The slide valves would only leak back to the pond.
Agreed, I have a similar slide valve on my pond and it leaks into my Eazy pod when cleaning, IMO a Ball valve to filter is the safest bet.
Will we get a part 2?
I do not like the that there is no filtration on the skimmer.
Just like the 2" pump pipe work with the 90 degrea corners. This is causing so much loss of flow. Just a shame.
The pump is only pushing around 2000 gph. The friction loss is minimal. Like most things it could always be better, but is the juice worth the squeeze. I would always recommend increasing the diameter of the pipework to reduce friction. Often far less expensive and more effective than using swept bends.
Hi mate what mix was used for the render please
Simple 3 to 1 sand to cement works fine.
pa support po sa sa CZcams channel ko idol salamat po and shout out din po
That filter right waste space bigger pond surely better
What alot of work,that will not last no more than 3 years. then the issues of hight maintaince.facts are facts.
My pond is 5000 gallons and is built exactly the same way, was constructed in 2005 and is still housing the same fish, so that's that theory debunked, and you obviously have no idea what fibreglass is if you think leaching is a problem