Great video and commentary. Your knowledge is admirable, and you do a great job explaining the process. I can tell you are a real working man! Go UTES!!
Nice work. You should also invest in a good set of outside micrometers, probably 0-12". You'll never get a decent level of repeatability or accuracy with calipers, or guessimeters as they are often called. That and some telescoping bore gages. They come in hand when boring to a precise dimension.
@@Freedomfabrication777 Mine are a combination of vintage Starrett and Brown & Sharp, but they are all from auctions and buying machinists toolboxes with tools in them. I have standards for them so I can check calibration and adjust them if necessary. They are very accurate and repeatable. If I were to buy something new, I'd probably go to Shars and get a good import set from them, since I can't really afford brand new Starrett tools. A 0-12" from them is probably $4,000 new.
@@MyLilMule yeah, that’s why I asked. I think you do a lot more machining than I do, but when you need them, you need them. I was just looking at the price of a good starrett set…..😳. I was also thinking about maybe an SPI set. I’ve had pretty good luck with their stuff as well.
Love watching your videos, you did an awesome job on the bushings. Love all the info on all the trouble issues that most people might come across. Also the video screw up while making it. lol :) Alot like CEE. 👍. Keep up the good work. Just a little FYI, maybe not wear a hoodie with strings while using a lathe. Just a safe precaution. Love the page. 👍
Thank you, I try to share the good and the bad. As bad as it sucks sometimes, the bad stuff is where you learn the most. I appreciate the safety suggestion, and thanks for watching!
I’m small fabricator at my home shop and I came across your channel and I absolutely enjoy watching your video and content. Great work on the videos and you have an amazing shop and tools. Keep up the great work. Thank sir #TRUMP2024
Your honesty is awesome!! You’re doing great. I agree with the suggestion to get your son out in the shop and let him make some hammers. Glad I found your channel!!
I try to be transparent. The truth is- running a business is not easy. It requires a lot of problem solving and planning. It can be stressful. I hope that viewers can see that I want to show all aspects of running a business, even at my small scale. Thanks for watching!
Love your work, your shop, and your videos. I learn a lot from your explanations. I'm not a lathe guy so much, but I've spent a lot ot time around rotating equipment. I knew it did not happen since you posted the video, but the safety guy in me was concerned when I saw you leaning in to inspect cutting on your lathe with your hoodie drawstings hanging down. FWIW.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate that. I appreciate the concern with the hoodie draw strings. I’ll pay more attention to that. Thanks for watching!
It did work pretty well. I think it was one of those things that intimidated me because it’s something I had never done before. Happy New Year, and Thanks for watching!
I'm enjoying your great videos. I grew up in an environment like the business you are into. Would not trade the experience for all of the tea in China. I have a solution suggestion for the seasing up bearings. In my experiences, this type of bearing will have a grove around the inside center with connecting groves like you aer making, or oval groves that take special setup to machine. the machine will have a lube port directly to this central distribution location from either external on the machine or internal through the shaft/pin that goes through it. Another suggestion, I've seen this installed on a large front-end loader in a sand pit. I had a work order to change the pins and inspect the bushings as a pm (preventive measure, schedule maintenance). I thought they would have been worn to a frazzle and stuck. To my great surprise, no noticeable, hardly any wear. The machine had an automatic lube system. In this case, it's used a heavy 90 weight gear oil on a cycle timmer. In this case, it was made by Lincolin. Of 24 years in heavy manufacturing environment maintenance, all automated machines have automatic lube systems. There are a great many suppliers.
I also have a Maintenance background. I agree that a radial grease groove would be best, but I don’t have the apparatus to do it. I will have to get more information on what the application is, and possibly suggest what you did with an automatic lube system if their application will permit it. Hope you and your family have a safe and happy new year, and thanks for watching!
OK, I'm missing something... not sure what the "problem" is with the OEM bearing. It took a lot of pressure to push out, but, don't you want the bearing held in it's housing so it doesn't rotate/slide/move? Perhaps it was shrink fit, instead of press fit, into it's housing? (heat housing, cyro bearing, either/both?)
So the problem is that they were having to use 60,000 lbs. of pressure to press the bronze bushings out. And yes they are supposed to be a pressed fit, but not nearly that tight. As it turns out, the mechanic told me the PMs weren’t being done on the equipment, so they weren’t getting greased which was causing the problem with them seizing up. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
@@Freedomfabrication777 So, is it the pin IN the bushing that's sticking rather than the bushing in the housing (since greasing is inside the bearing) ?
@@markschweter6371 without seeing the equipment, I would assume that is correct. And the fact that they’re wanting me to make the new bushings with an extra groove on the inside would make me believe that is correct.
Thanks! I would say the majority agrees, but I do get a few that get so offended that they can’t watch the channel. Kinda funny, I thought this was a fabrication channel. Didn’t realize that all goes out the window if they disagree with one little thing in my shop. Oh well, toughen up I guess. Thanks for watching!
Well done. A couple of thoughts: - Chatter. As you noted, reduced tool nose radius can help; but as a general rule, *reduce* speed and *increase* feed. HSS might have worked better than carbide in this application. - Brass/bronze mess. Especially when turning an OD in brass/bronze, it will make less of a mess, if you flip the tool upside down and run in reverse (the chips primarily go down, rather than all over). You mentioned the bearings seizing....but it's not clear if you were meaning the pins seizing in the bushings, or the bushings seizing in the bore-? If it's the former (pins seizing in the bush).....it might be 3 symmetrical grease grooves that are partially responsible. While it would be considerably more difficult to machine, that's why many grease grooves are diagonal/almost elliptical. Similar difference between a straight flute reamer, vs a helical reamer, and how they react in a bore when partially unsupported.
Thanks for the pointers. I’ll give them a try. As far as the bushing. It sounds like the pin is what is getting stuck. I agree, a radial grease groove would be best, but I don’t have the apparatus to do that. Hope you and your family have a happy and safe New Year, and thanks for watching!
dont know if ill eveer find a answer. but to me it looks like boring bar is a hair off str8. it isnt squre to bore ? iam learning and yet to find a video explaing detail boring. my 1st bronze bushings are goin to be 1/2 id. about 15 tho thickness. 1 inch long. from soild 932 or 36 forgot what i got. for tractor planetry gear set.
When you find it, let me know, cause I feel the same way. I don’t know if it makes a difference, but you are correct, I usually turn my boring bar slightly in towards the work piece. Just gives a little more clearance for chips. Don’t know if it’s right, but it’s what I do. Thanks for watching!
Your work would be better and more effortless if you had some better tools. A permanent fix for boring would be either a heavy metal or solid carbide boring bar with finishing inserts. (much cheaper on ebay) If you have the time and dont need to maintain perfect offsets across tools, an even better fix is a shop made boring bar that replaces your entire toolpost. If you can't bore effortlessly your job becomes needlessly difficult and unworthwhile on a lathe. If you have a rotary tool dremel makes CBN cutoff wheels that can be used to quickly freehand grind carbide inserts razor sharp for cutting bronze with less force. Inserts almost always have an edge radius on top of a corner radius, most are just pressed and sintered; not ground. The dust is very toxic though. If I had the machines and had to start my own shop I'd buy a certified set of 0-12 standards and piece together a 0-12 set of carbide faced micrometers in a hardwood box off ebay (wood absorbs moisture & keeps rust away) Then get yourself a bore gauge so you can set the bore gauge to a micrometer to quickly and accurately inspect many bushings. Shars has some good stuff. Just do not cheap out on your standards/gage blocks/micrometers. Telescoping gauges are a must have as well, good quality 2ndhand off ebay is better than cheap stuff from china. If you get into milling keyseats on that mill, adjustable parallels are quite nice to have if you dont have gage blocks/pin gages. Buy an edition of machinerys handbook, it has a lot of great information in it. Ebay is your friend for getting machinist tools, just look for evidence of mishandling/abuse in photos. If you buy something and its stuck but not rusted, the oil has just hardened and the tool will be fine.
Only new the the lathe , I picked up a very old one, I am a little confused as if you cut the front edge perfect, one would think when you turn it around it needs to be up full onto your lathe , but because you had to recenter wouldn’t that now make that first edge not 100% true to the second, would it not of been better to have pushed the first cut edge up tight to your lathe the the rest is what it is , as all your cuts should of come of your first cut, , I hope you can understand what I am trying to say, cheers.
I understand what you’re saying. As I machined more parts, I developed a routine where I would chuck the part, machine the face, the O.D., the reduced diameter section, then flipped it, faced and bored it, grease grooves, taper, and then it was complete. The way I did it in the video was a lot more difficult to get all surfaces machined true in relation with each other. It can still work as long as you’re picky when you center it with your dial indicator, but yes, much more difficult.
@Freedomfabrication777 thanks for explaining as I am learning it just didn't make sence . Much appreciated. I learn so much by watching other. I enjoy what you do. Again thankyou
@Freedomfabrication777 boom a baby was born. U might get so busy selling China might have to make lol, but I wld like the first two by u here in states plz, happy to pay before u build if u wld build, one for me, one for my son he works at kenworth, I tell him all the time the importance of no brass becareful punches can shard and hit u in placed that aren't cool
@@charlesmecum5009 Lol. You’re a real salesman! I’ll have to figure out what I would sell them for. I will also have to figure out when I would be able to build them. I’m slammed in the shop right now, so I probably won’t be able to get to it for a couple months.
I’m an open book, so I will answer. Take a look at my shop and you know where I stand. I definitely don’t think it was the “other guy”, but sadly, like so many other things in this great country, I think that too has been corrupted and lost all credibility with the majority of the people In this country. Thanks for watching!
@@Freedomfabrication777 You seem to flourishing in this great country. Yet you deny the results of the 2020 election. The results are the efforts of each state governments work to provide determinative results. When someone says they are suspect and no proof is found in court of interference. That ex-president has mis-led you.
Watching and learning thank you ♥️👁️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Brilliant video ♥️👁️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Congrats on 4k! Happy new year!🎉
Thanks brother. Hope you and your family have a safe and Happy New Year as well!
Awesome video!
Thanks, I appreciate that! Hope you and your family have a safe and happy new year, and thanks for watching!
Great video and commentary. Your knowledge is admirable, and you do a great job explaining the process. I can tell you are a real working man! Go UTES!!
What kind of man hides behind his wife’s identity? I know deep down you have a love for the blue!
Nice work. You should also invest in a good set of outside micrometers, probably 0-12". You'll never get a decent level of repeatability or accuracy with calipers, or guessimeters as they are often called. That and some telescoping bore gages. They come in hand when boring to a precise dimension.
I agree. 2 things that I do need to invest in. What kind of micrometers do you use?
@@Freedomfabrication777 Mine are a combination of vintage Starrett and Brown & Sharp, but they are all from auctions and buying machinists toolboxes with tools in them. I have standards for them so I can check calibration and adjust them if necessary. They are very accurate and repeatable. If I were to buy something new, I'd probably go to Shars and get a good import set from them, since I can't really afford brand new Starrett tools. A 0-12" from them is probably $4,000 new.
@@MyLilMule yeah, that’s why I asked. I think you do a lot more machining than I do, but when you need them, you need them. I was just looking at the price of a good starrett set…..😳. I was also thinking about maybe an SPI set. I’ve had pretty good luck with their stuff as well.
@@Freedomfabrication777 Well, you do a ton more welding than I do. 😉SPI makes good tools, too.
Love watching your videos, you did an awesome job on the bushings. Love all the info on all the trouble issues that most people might come across. Also the video screw up while making it. lol :) Alot like CEE. 👍. Keep up the good work. Just a little FYI, maybe not wear a hoodie with strings while using a lathe. Just a safe precaution. Love the page. 👍
Thank you, I try to share the good and the bad. As bad as it sucks sometimes, the bad stuff is where you learn the most. I appreciate the safety suggestion, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing. You are very good communicator. I allso like your honest and transparency.
Have a beautiful New Year.
Thank you, I hope you and your family have a safe and happy New Year as well. Thanks for watching!
I’m small fabricator at my home shop and I came across your channel and I absolutely enjoy watching your video and content. Great work on the videos and you have an amazing shop and tools. Keep up the great work. Thank sir #TRUMP2024
Thanks man, I really appreciate that, and thank you for watching!
Your honesty is awesome!! You’re doing great.
I agree with the suggestion to get your son out in the shop and let him make some hammers.
Glad I found your channel!!
I try to be transparent. The truth is- running a business is not easy. It requires a lot of problem solving and planning. It can be stressful. I hope that viewers can see that I want to show all aspects of running a business, even at my small scale. Thanks for watching!
Love your work, your shop, and your videos. I learn a lot from your explanations.
I'm not a lathe guy so much, but I've spent a lot ot time around rotating equipment. I knew it did not happen since you posted the video, but the safety guy in me was concerned when I saw you leaning in to inspect cutting on your lathe with your hoodie drawstings hanging down. FWIW.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate that. I appreciate the concern with the hoodie draw strings. I’ll pay more attention to that. Thanks for watching!
Nice job, those inside vertical grooves, looks like it worked out pretty good
It did work pretty well. I think it was one of those things that intimidated me because it’s something I had never done before. Happy New Year, and Thanks for watching!
I wish the gentleman all the best ♥️👁️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I'm enjoying your great videos. I grew up in an environment like the business you are into. Would not trade the experience for all of the tea in China.
I have a solution suggestion for the seasing up bearings. In my experiences, this type of bearing will have a grove around the inside center with connecting groves like you aer making, or oval groves that take special setup to machine. the machine will have a lube port directly to this central distribution location from either external on the machine or internal through the shaft/pin that goes through it.
Another suggestion, I've seen this installed on a large front-end loader in a sand pit. I had a work order to change the pins and inspect the bushings as a pm (preventive measure, schedule maintenance). I thought they would have been worn to a frazzle and stuck. To my great surprise, no noticeable, hardly any wear.
The machine had an automatic lube system. In this case, it's used a heavy 90 weight gear oil on a cycle timmer. In this case, it was made by Lincolin.
Of 24 years in heavy manufacturing environment maintenance, all automated machines have automatic lube systems. There are a great many suppliers.
I also have a Maintenance background. I agree that a radial grease groove would be best, but I don’t have the apparatus to do it. I will have to get more information on what the application is, and possibly suggest what you did with an automatic lube system if their application will permit it. Hope you and your family have a safe and happy new year, and thanks for watching!
👌 Happy New Year to you and your family.
Thank you. I hope it’s a safe and Happy New Year to you and your family as well. Thanks for watching!
Thanks learned alot!
You bet! Hope you have a safe and happy new year, and Thank you for watching!
OK, I'm missing something... not sure what the "problem" is with the OEM bearing.
It took a lot of pressure to push out, but, don't you want the bearing held in it's housing so it doesn't rotate/slide/move?
Perhaps it was shrink fit, instead of press fit, into it's housing?
(heat housing, cyro bearing, either/both?)
So the problem is that they were having to use 60,000 lbs. of pressure to press the bronze bushings out. And yes they are supposed to be a pressed fit, but not nearly that tight. As it turns out, the mechanic told me the PMs weren’t being done on the equipment, so they weren’t getting greased which was causing the problem with them seizing up. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
@@Freedomfabrication777 So, is it the pin IN the bushing that's sticking rather than the bushing in the housing (since greasing is inside the bearing)
?
@@markschweter6371 without seeing the equipment, I would assume that is correct. And the fact that they’re wanting me to make the new bushings with an extra groove on the inside would make me believe that is correct.
I loved your flags and I suscribed!! particulary one red one over there hehe
Thanks! I would say the majority agrees, but I do get a few that get so offended that they can’t watch the channel. Kinda funny, I thought this was a fabrication channel. Didn’t realize that all goes out the window if they disagree with one little thing in my shop. Oh well, toughen up I guess. Thanks for watching!
Well done. A couple of thoughts:
- Chatter. As you noted, reduced tool nose radius can help; but as a general rule, *reduce* speed and *increase* feed. HSS might have worked better than carbide in this application.
- Brass/bronze mess. Especially when turning an OD in brass/bronze, it will make less of a mess, if you flip the tool upside down and run in reverse (the chips primarily go down, rather than all over).
You mentioned the bearings seizing....but it's not clear if you were meaning the pins seizing in the bushings, or the bushings seizing in the bore-? If it's the former (pins seizing in the bush).....it might be 3 symmetrical grease grooves that are partially responsible. While it would be considerably more difficult to machine, that's why many grease grooves are diagonal/almost elliptical. Similar difference between a straight flute reamer, vs a helical reamer, and how they react in a bore when partially unsupported.
Thanks for the pointers. I’ll give them a try. As far as the bushing. It sounds like the pin is what is getting stuck. I agree, a radial grease groove would be best, but I don’t have the apparatus to do that. Hope you and your family have a happy and safe New Year, and thanks for watching!
dont know if ill eveer find a answer. but to me it looks like boring bar is a hair off str8. it isnt squre to bore ? iam learning and yet to find a video explaing detail boring. my 1st bronze bushings are goin to be 1/2 id. about 15 tho thickness. 1 inch long. from soild 932 or 36 forgot what i got. for tractor planetry gear set.
When you find it, let me know, cause I feel the same way. I don’t know if it makes a difference, but you are correct, I usually turn my boring bar slightly in towards the work piece. Just gives a little more clearance for chips. Don’t know if it’s right, but it’s what I do. Thanks for watching!
Get a bigger boring bar you have alot of stick out for such a small bar
Your work would be better and more effortless if you had some better tools. A permanent fix for boring would be either a heavy metal or solid carbide boring bar with finishing inserts. (much cheaper on ebay) If you have the time and dont need to maintain perfect offsets across tools, an even better fix is a shop made boring bar that replaces your entire toolpost. If you can't bore effortlessly your job becomes needlessly difficult and unworthwhile on a lathe. If you have a rotary tool dremel makes CBN cutoff wheels that can be used to quickly freehand grind carbide inserts razor sharp for cutting bronze with less force. Inserts almost always have an edge radius on top of a corner radius, most are just pressed and sintered; not ground. The dust is very toxic though.
If I had the machines and had to start my own shop I'd buy a certified set of 0-12 standards and piece together a 0-12 set of carbide faced micrometers in a hardwood box off ebay (wood absorbs moisture & keeps rust away) Then get yourself a bore gauge so you can set the bore gauge to a micrometer to quickly and accurately inspect many bushings. Shars has some good stuff. Just do not cheap out on your standards/gage blocks/micrometers. Telescoping gauges are a must have as well, good quality 2ndhand off ebay is better than cheap stuff from china. If you get into milling keyseats on that mill, adjustable parallels are quite nice to have if you dont have gage blocks/pin gages. Buy an edition of machinerys handbook, it has a lot of great information in it.
Ebay is your friend for getting machinist tools, just look for evidence of mishandling/abuse in photos. If you buy something and its stuck but not rusted, the oil has just hardened and the tool will be fine.
Only new the the lathe , I picked up a very old one, I am a little confused as if you cut the front edge perfect, one would think when you turn it around it needs to be up full onto your lathe , but because you had to recenter wouldn’t that now make that first edge not 100% true to the second, would it not of been better to have pushed the first cut edge up tight to your lathe the the rest is what it is , as all your cuts should of come of your first cut, , I hope you can understand what I am trying to say, cheers.
I understand what you’re saying. As I machined more parts, I developed a routine where I would chuck the part, machine the face, the O.D., the reduced diameter section, then flipped it, faced and bored it, grease grooves, taper, and then it was complete. The way I did it in the video was a lot more difficult to get all surfaces machined true in relation with each other. It can still work as long as you’re picky when you center it with your dial indicator, but yes, much more difficult.
@Freedomfabrication777 thanks for explaining as I am learning it just didn't make sence . Much appreciated. I learn so much by watching other. I enjoy what you do. Again thankyou
@@andrewrobinson2869 You bet. Thank you for watching!
Why not use a steady rest ?
Well the biggest reason is I don’t have one big enough to accept that size of part.
Stickout on that skinny boring bar
Can I buy 2 of those hammers
Are you serious?
@Freedomfabrication777 yes and u shld but do one more for me cuz I just allowed u more merchandise to be sold lolol stamp ur name in it FREEDOM
@Freedomfabrication777 boom a baby was born. U might get so busy selling China might have to make lol, but I wld like the first two by u here in states plz, happy to pay before u build if u wld build, one for me, one for my son he works at kenworth, I tell him all the time the importance of no brass becareful punches can shard and hit u in placed that aren't cool
@@charlesmecum5009 Lol. You’re a real salesman!
I’ll have to figure out what I would sell them for. I will also have to figure out when I would be able to build them. I’m slammed in the shop right now, so I probably won’t be able to get to it for a couple months.
@@Freedomfabrication777 grt side hustle for your boy, you've taught him gd, anyway appreciate what you do, grt content
Who do you think won the 2020 presidential election? Trump or the other guy?
I’m an open book, so I will answer. Take a look at my shop and you know where I stand. I definitely don’t think it was the “other guy”, but sadly, like so many other things in this great country, I think that too has been corrupted and lost all credibility with the majority of the people In this country. Thanks for watching!
@@Freedomfabrication777 You seem to flourishing in this great country. Yet you deny the results of the 2020 election. The results are the efforts of each state governments work to provide determinative results. When someone says they are suspect and no proof is found in court of interference. That ex-president has mis-led you.
Awesome video!
Thank you sir! Safe and Happy New Year to you and your family!