Like most illusive problems there is often more than one thing that comes together to make the problem hard to diagnose. I am sure that springs and o-rings could both have an effect on this problem, however in both cases you must disassemble everything to install those parts. Once you clean the crud out of the low spot the problem could be solved once put back together at least until crud settles in the low spot again. I would propose that my solution solved the problem once and for all, crud or no crud. Not saying that JD did not have other problems with o-rings or springs backing out. Keep the crud out of the low spot or make room for the crud. I would have never believed 20,000 people would have watched this video over the last 6 years. My breaks are still doing well.
Well done video. Mine was a 5200 deere. A couple of comments for those that have this problem. The updated seals and springs are available from Deere. On a 5200 the part numbers are T77814 (2) T77857 (1) L116345 (2) L116346 (2) AL181919. Contrary to the manual, the axle tubes can be pulled with out pulling the roll bar and fuel tank as it can be lifted enough the clear. On the measurements take your piston seals and springs off the piston and put the piston fully into the bore. Measure depth as that represents where the piston should be when you get it fully installed. Mine was 0.520 and 0.530" Install the piston by using a piece of angle iron and wood along with some bolts to pull it into the housing, then use a compothane hammer to fully seat the piston. Measure the depth as it should be the same as you measured when you put the piston in with no seals, if the piston is fully seated. The new seals are black and my original seals were green. The cross section of the seals were different and the return springs were also a different design. I have spent my life as a service engineer for a major automotive manufacture and I am just stumped as to why any one would design a system like this. When removing the piston originally from the bore, compressed air will get it partially out and then use a couple of heal bars to pry it the rest of the way out. Be careful with the bars as the piston is cast and can be damaged.
Most don’t know and have never heard, however my dad and I delivered and bought equipment from JD between ‘96-2005. Those late 90’s early 2000’s should have had a recall on the o-rings. Deere never let that out of the bag. Most replacement rings are green where the originals were black. Swelling would cause the disc to stick. I have mostly seen this on the 5000 series tractors since
@@4csadventures nothing, removed them completely. At first it looks like the brake piston needs them there to keep it from turning, but the final drive housing keeps the piston from turning.
Brake springs slowly work there way out the brakes will bind up, The fix is too drill and tap the out drives install set screws to hold the brake springs in place, did mine worked no more problems
Very interested in how you did that. Will be my first time changing the brakes on my 5105, it has needed it for couple of years and want to fix the problem for good.
Your fix sounds like a solid solution, thank you for sharing! To do this you installed set screws in the final drive housing against the return spring bore friction (the net fit minus some) area that the spring assembly gets pressed into? What direction did you go in to make that work? If from the outside did you have any oil leakage issues?
on my 5080R, brake pedals are soft when you press at the first time, so there is even not enough brake force. When you press again, brakes work fine. But if you try to press one more time after 10 seconds, pedals are soft again. Did anyone here had the same issue and how did you fix it? Brake system is bleeded out and o rings are changed. Is it possible that those three springs pull the brake piston too far away and there is too much gap between disc and piston, so you have to fill the piston with oil every time to fill this gap?
Like most illusive problems there is often more than one thing that comes together to make the problem hard to diagnose. I am sure that springs and o-rings could both have an effect on this problem, however in both cases you must disassemble everything to install those parts. Once you clean the crud out of the low spot the problem could be solved once put back together at least until crud settles in the low spot again.
I would propose that my solution solved the problem once and for all, crud or no crud. Not saying that JD did not have other problems with o-rings or springs backing out. Keep the crud out of the low spot or make room for the crud.
I would have never believed 20,000 people would have watched this video over the last 6 years. My breaks are still doing well.
Well done video. Mine was a 5200 deere. A couple of comments for those that have this problem. The updated seals and springs are available from Deere. On a 5200 the part numbers are T77814 (2) T77857 (1) L116345 (2) L116346 (2) AL181919. Contrary to the manual, the axle tubes can be pulled with out pulling the roll bar and fuel tank as it can be lifted enough the clear. On the measurements take your piston seals and springs off the piston and put the piston fully into the bore. Measure depth as that represents where the piston should be when you get it fully installed. Mine was 0.520 and 0.530"
Install the piston by using a piece of angle iron and wood along with some bolts to pull it into the housing, then use a compothane hammer to fully seat the piston. Measure the depth as it should be the same as you measured when you put the piston in with no seals, if the piston is fully seated. The new seals are black and my original seals were green. The cross section of the seals were different and the return springs were also a different design. I have spent my life as a service engineer for a major automotive manufacture and I am just stumped as to why any one would design a system like this. When removing the piston originally from the bore, compressed air will get it partially out and then use a couple of heal bars to pry it the rest of the way out. Be careful with the bars as the piston is cast and can be damaged.
Most don’t know and have never heard, however my dad and I delivered and bought equipment from JD between ‘96-2005. Those late 90’s early 2000’s should have had a recall on the o-rings. Deere never let that out of the bag. Most replacement rings are green where the originals were black. Swelling would cause the disc to stick.
I have mostly seen this on the 5000 series tractors since
I just removed the brake return springs all together on my 5210. Been working fine now for 3 months.
What did you put in their place?
@@4csadventures nothing, removed them completely. At first it looks like the brake piston needs them there to keep it from turning, but the final drive housing keeps the piston from turning.
Brake springs slowly work there way out the brakes will bind up, The fix is too drill and tap the out drives install set screws to hold the brake springs in place, did mine worked no more problems
Very interested in how you did that. Will be my first time changing the brakes on my 5105, it has needed it for couple of years and want to fix the problem for good.
Did mine twice before I found the problem good luck
Your fix sounds like a solid solution, thank you for sharing! To do this you installed set screws in the final drive housing against the return spring bore friction (the net fit minus some) area that the spring assembly gets pressed into? What direction did you go in to make that work? If from the outside did you have any oil leakage issues?
I have a 5410 that the brakes are dragging on.
on my 5080R, brake pedals are soft when you press at the first time, so there is even not enough brake force. When you press again, brakes work fine. But if you try to press one more time after 10 seconds, pedals are soft again.
Did anyone here had the same issue and how did you fix it? Brake system is bleeded out and o rings are changed. Is it possible that those three springs pull the brake piston too far away and there is too much gap between disc and piston, so you have to fill the piston with oil every time to fill this gap?
same issue here. Have anyone an idea?
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