Tomos Sprag Clip Spring. What it does and why you need it. A3 A35 A55
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- čas přidán 18. 10. 2021
- This video is all about the Tomos Sprag clip.
People are always taking them out and telling people you dont need them! But they serve a purpose and you absolutely do need them?
Graham from Moped Factory is here to explain it for us!
#Tomos #Mopeds #Cornped
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These collabs are great.
One thing I'm curious about is this: the sprag clips always seem to break, especially on kitted tomos motors; in one of my bikes a fragment of the sprag clip was driven into the right crankshaft seal, taking out the spring and poking a hole in the seal.
I've seen some wear on the rollers of my kitted a3, and I have trashed one first gear; that gear was already damaged (half a dozen or so mangled teeth), so I can't conclusively say the missing clip was the culprit, but it might well be!
If running the clip prevents this I'm certainly happy to do it, but I also don't want to rebuild the motor every 30 miles to replace a broken clip, y'know?
I had a Revival A35 and an Arrow A55 and they both never snapped. I do know they break all the time, but I have not had it happen. Ill get Graham in here to see what he thinks.
@@Corn-ped Yeah, both A3s I've rebuilt came with snapped clips, and I didn't replace them due to their poor reputation. I did just replace the rollers in the one-way bearing on one of my A3s, so maybe I'll put that clip in and see how it goes...
Very usefull video, I have a 1989 A3 SL and it is very helpful to see and understand how that gearbox works. Thanks for an awesome video!!
Yeah! Glad it helps
Man this is really great this is the stuff we need dropping some knowledge on us
More to come! Thanks for watching!
👌
great explanation
This is exactly what the moped in community needs understanding of how things work and why they work and how they work and what should be happening and what happens if you don't do the right things thank you so much you guys are doing Great work and yes please more videos like this
Thanks! More videos coming up!
I have a sprag clip in mine and it still shudders.
We need a full in depth Tomos engine rebuild video . I hate the Tomos manual doesn't go in as much depth as the Puch manual does
Yeah! I ll get one up.
Got a couple tx50s that I want to redo
Do those have a35s or a55s?
A55 I believe
yeah a solid a35 rebuild would be rad!
So how do you prevent them from breaking
Ive never had one break. soooo IDK. Ill get Graham the Tomos Lover in here to answer the hard hitting questions.
I've never had one that I replaced break. I think having worn out clutches might put extra stress on them? I'm really not sure. I pop the trans cover every 500 miles and change the oil and check the clutch wear, takes about 15 minutes.
If you're breaking the clip in 30 miles likely your one way bearing is toast, check the rollers and look for a crack in the carrier ring.
@@motzingg I have a few sitting in my treats basket, so we'll see!
Our '08 Streetmate, after riding home from school without issue, the next morning my son went out and it would not kick, the pedal wouldn't go backward at all. After fussing with it for a few minutes it will free up. Now that it will kick fine I am not seeing spark and I can't get the bike to start. Any advice?
Nice collab!!
Collabs are fab!
I don't have a Tomos, but your other videos have taught me a lot. Can you do a video of e50 clutch shimming without splitting the case? I don't think ever seen a properly shimmed clutch. Even low mile "stock" peds that I've bought have loose bells and and rattling clutch plates.
yeah I totally can. I am waiting for some shims right now!
@@Corn-ped Thanks man looking forward to it!
I showed this to my youth group. Very informative!
I bet they loved it
@@Corn-ped They thought a sprag clip was a type of ska dance! Haha! Who knew?!
sir, you seem to know your thing about Tomos mopeds or how you call em. I am dutch, not sure how to translate it correctly into english.
Anyway.... i got this problem where the clutch housing does not engage the splines on the driveshaft anymore.
In fact, the splines on both the drive shaft as well as those in the clutch housing have gone.
Out of the building.
Flat.
Not perfectly smooth, but close.
Because replacing the crankshaft involves taking the entire engine apart, i was hoping to fix it some other way.
Because: The engine itself (the cilinder, piston and the rest) is in perfectly working condition. It has however never come apart. Or not as long as i owned it. About 7 years.
The cilinder, the piston, they sound healthy. Seem to be able to deliver some power.
But them bolts are rusted away. To get that cilinder off of the engine body might involve a grinder.
Which would mean: New cilinder, new piston, etc.
So to get the max out of that cilinder and current crankshaft and clutch housing, i was thinking of putting in a key way.
Perhaps 2 small key ways in the crankshaft and in the clutch housing as well.
What do you think?
Or do you perhaps have a much easier working solution? That would Obviously be appreciated much more than to have to spend a lot of time precisely drilling a key way with limited equipment (as in a hand drill and my eyes).
muchos appreciatos for any reply (poor attempt to also sound spanish..... i know)
A key would work for a short time, but I think it would snap if you weigh more than 60 kilos. Really you should rebuild the engine. Tomos engines are very easy to rebuild. You. Can do it in a couple hours.
@@Corn-ped Do you remember that clip from that minister? The only thing he asked was: Why? Why????? WHy????? WHY????????? WHY????¿¿¿¿¿????????
I know what you mean. Sure, they are easy to rebuild if you can get the cilinder off of the main block.
This one has basically rusted into place.
Works fine, but to get it off of the main block might require a bit of grinding.
Them bolts are rusted into place securely.
But so you think a key will work for a short time.
Why?
If the key itself is made out of good quality steel.
2 keys, would that make a difference?
Man!!!!!!
I just came from that kinda work a month ago. Taking apart an engine where the cilinder was rusted into place, bolts all rusted into place.
It took a lot of grinding.
And it meant it would not be a cheap job.
Because not just the part had to be replaced but the cilinder and the piston and the details.....gaskets and what have you.
And now you tell me that you (more of an expert than me, judging by the videos) have no other idea or solution to this problem than to rebuild this friggin engine as well......
You know what, i am gonna make it into a statue.
And i will call it: The last Friggin Tomos i ever had.
In India they weld on a piece of shaft.
But im not gonna go into that kinda trouble.
Thought a key way or perhaps 2 would do the trick.
But if you say it will be a temp solution, then it is not worth the trouble.
Might as well buy a new block.
Sorry for having written you a book in response.
@@bertjesklotepino it might work. But I have had bikes with straight shafts and keys. They hold up for kids. But not adult weight. Rebuilding a tomos is easy and you really should do it. The bearings and seals are how old? Time to refresh it.
@@Corn-ped the bearing and all the rest are as old as the rest of the block.
I bought the moped some 6 or 7 years ago. (rough estimate)
But everything was already running for quite some time before that.
So yeah sure, it is up for a revision.
I agree.
But i always like to get the max out of stuff.
This cilinder, you should hear it run.
Just 1 kick, puff puff (pass) puff puff (pass). >;)
I always used choke no matter the temperature. I always used a tiny bit more oil than required, just because i rather have there be a bit of build up of carbon and such than to have it scratch the surfaces.
It doesnt leak oil from the seals.
Would it not hurt you to have to grind off a basically well taken care of cilinder that is still delivering power?
If you can give me any advice how to get it off without destroying it....
I have tried everything. Penetrating oil.
Heating up the bolts.
Special tools to loosen up locked bolts and nuts.
With the other engine, no luck.
So i am very afraid to even start it on this one.
Because: Once you start, you cant go back.
Once 1 bolt or nut has been removed, it has to come apart entirely. Trying to tighten back the already foeked up nut aint the best idea.
I think i am gonna square it up, the axis/shaft. Buy myself a clutch with a square hole. (which mostlikely will be too big).
And i will shim it up with steel keys/plates.
I can not think of any reason it should not work.
If it does not work i will give you the results. If it does work, i will also give you the results. So you can use it to perhaps enlighten people who have similar problems.
But if it does not work, this engine is gonna be a statue with the underwriting of: My last friggin Tomos..... at least i tried.
Rad explanation! What happens when the Tomos pedals... Pedal themselves @_@ I've had that happen before. I've wonder if that is the sprag clip going kaboom • Honest²
Hey Mike, I kinda touched on it briefly at the end there, the sprocket that goes to the pedal shaft can jam from the one way bearing locking up, that's when you will feel a shudder in the pedals or a random kick. When they fully lock, that's usually the one way bearing inside the clutch bell having completely seized from too much clutch and gear trash floating around in the oil.
Anyone on the eats coats willing to help me fix mine or do it for me?
u wrong the small rear is 1e