JUNKYARD LS (LOW $-BIG NOS) FULL RESULTS!
Vložit
- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- BIG BANG LS NITROUS TEST-FULL RESULTS. Will a stock bottom end take a 500-hp shot? We ran individual stages successfully on the SBE 5.3L, but check out what happened when we combined them to supply 500 hp to our 500-hp 5.3L LS. My fault it all went bad! Here is why.
Progressive nitrous controller, huge nitrous and fuel brought in at a more controllable manner with no more spikes!
Came here to say this, lol
Yep!
This is what I always do when dealing with N20
I like it!
The guy who made this video is an idiot...
Brule' must love seeing you walk through the door pushing a junk LS in front of you. Who cleaned that debacle up!.
LOL, Yep!
You can't buy this kind of advertising. Not that Westech would need any with all the Hot Rod projects they've worked on and dynoed.
Brûlée for President!
100% my favorite channel on youtube. You have the greatest job in the world, hands down!!!
Omg you crack me up with the short clips of nitrous bottle and the backfire😂
When an engine starts screaming after a nirtous hits it puts a chill sown my spine...nothing compares to that sound
Nothing like it
What about your buddy in the passenger seat that doesn’t know you put nitrous on your car? 😂
Next time use propane on the fuel side of the nitrous
LP to NO2 is a 1:1 ratio. You won’t have the lean spike and you won’t be stealing fuel from the injection or fuel rails.
LP is also 115 octane and will not puddle inside the intake manifold
It works awesome
I’ve never heard of using propane with nitrous, I’ve seen propane converted cars so I definitely could see it working out great
@@southernracing2468propane/lpg or gas(state of matter) cars are popular in aus, back on the early 2000s majority of Australian built cars ran both or only gas
That explosion was bad ass!!! I mean .....what a great learning experience on what a 14:1 fuel ratio does to a motor!!! Great job as always!!!!
DUDE! ... You'er my HERO!! Thank you for working your ass off to educate us !!!
Like the saying goes nitrous doesnt kill engines people kill engines, great vid Richard love the vids and excellent work as you always give us even if you call it a fail its a win and a learning experience for us all. Thank you Sir for the trial by fire
Cam $400
HOLLEY HI-RAM INTAKE $600
2 Holley throttle bodies $800
Trick Flow® GenX® 220 Cylinder Heads for GM LS1 TFS-30610001 2 x $900
NOS Crosshair Plate Nitrous System $900
2nd NOS Plate Kit (without bottle) $400
Gasket set, nitrous tank filling, injectors, ECM...$2000???
Watching a junkyard motor blow up on CZcams.......PRICELESS!!
And the title says "Low $" ...
@@middlesiderrider That is low $$. Built a motor lately? It isnt dollar store cheap.
You aint gettin trick flows for 900 dolla, u crazy
@Mr. 6 liter i do cuz there sittin on my engine now, 1250.00 each
Painful to watch.
Stay in it !
Best tech content of any engine related channel.
4 am and I’m watching an ls torture session and I’m happy that I am!!
How do you not have more subscribers this is impressive
The biggest/best thing I enjoy about your channel is constant content, that’s super informative
I vote for a dry setup with the fuel being done properly by the primary injection system.
This can also be done on any stock intake as well, and I think those would be nice to see (simply because low buck guys aren't gonna buy big intakes if they done have to). ;)
Thanks for the impeccable upload timing. Always catch these gems when I get home from working nights.
Really enjoying the feel of the last couple videos you have put out ! They have your own flair to them along with all the great info you drop ! Need just one video to go “Trending” and this channel will blow up !
go make them trend
I’d like to see a single stinger 3 wet kit spraying the full 688hp on a progressive. That would be sick. I know I’m 2 years late to the party but. That would be the key. I watched this video when it dropped and was coming back for a refresher course. Richard is the man. Hope all is well sir
Great video ;)
Dry with the ECU controlling all the fuel with a proper VE tune that can compensate in the event of fuel pressure drops.
Ya nitrous is safer to run with fuel
I am happy to have come across your channel. I will pick up an LM7 soon enough for my 240sx and I have learned a lot from your channel on what this engine can do!
FINALLY!!!! I've been waiting for this for 2 YEARSSS!!!!
The tree house is the best backdrop. Way better than the screen. Thanks for all the knowledge!
tree fort FTW
😎live from the tree fort👍 I am digging this format
Damn, that was spectacular......
Piston let go due to lack of strength and debris allowed the intake valve to hang open....this may have been more of a factor
than the 14-1...
Somewhere, some kid swapped his treehouse for a big bang 4.8. 😁👍
As a proud owner of a nitrous feed SBE 5.3, I can't wait to see the 2nd part. Keep em coming, enjoying every video...
Wonder how much more N/A hp would you get if you bump the compression up with some dome piston on that 5.3?
Richard, I believe not ramping in either kit. Caused a siphoning of air, hence the lean ratio for the application. Huge low pressure area was created when second stage was introduced.
I've seen more dry kits go boom than I've seen wet kits go boom.
Because people don’t upgrade their fuel systems
Because people are too stupid to upgrade their fuel systems people blow up engines not dry kits 😂
two of my favourite things in one video, engines and a golden retriever
Lmoa😄😄 @ the nos face freeze frame bottle squirts in between fuel injector changes...but Yo!! that junkyard 5.3 Ls demo was Liiitt! 🔥 no pun intended! totally baaddass!! impressive!! Love the content..got Ls fever.. I'm learning a lot...stage 1....500+ hp stage 2 885 hp & then The Big Bang on stage 3 LS engine...damn nere busting 1000 hp, the engine mods u can do / gain with that 5.3 ls is something else! swapping one now in a 95 OBS 5-sp. Nv3500 trans that had the snoozer 4.3 V6 can't wait to see the results from the swap✌👍👍
This is a great format! Love it Richard!
Watching that intake blow apart is comedy every time...😂😂😂
Rich, that pretzel of a dyno graph is hilarious 😂😂😂😂😂😂
That was awesome! I love it when stuff that is not mine blows up 😂! Thanks for sharing Richard, you are the man!
Witnessed a similar nitrous explosion on the dyno. It was cleanup on all aisles😂
In getting ready to run nitrous on my engine, I was warned about A/F on multiple stages. My guess is that the fuel on the second stage was slower to the jet than the nitrous was and it went lean. Also could have been a dip in fuel pressure. I have also heard not to run plates on a tunnel ram- all that nitrous and fuel in the intake make for a nice bomb (as witnessed in the video). My thoughts would be a single, large hit on a fogger with a progressive controller (as others have said). Do it wet, not dry as you can get tune info from the manufacturer and not have to guess with the pulse width on the EFI.
Richard what about wet foggers + different types of fuel - leaded race gas, e85, methane in foggers, but engine has to run on 93 pump gas.
Expensive learning curve,lol. Something to learn from, thanks Richard.
Can’t win them all brother!! Love to see a little more Gen 4 and drive by wire stuff. God Bless.
I'm sure you already know this But, I was told by an old drag car engine builder "You should remove all sharp edges in the chamber and piston when you playing with NOS."
He also recommended a piston button be installed but, I didn't know what those were.
Multiple kits are very tricky. After running each kit separately. I would of started small with both kits on and worked your way up. That way you could of caught the lean issue before it blew the motor. Next test, run it with a single 4150 carb, Super Vic intake, individual fogger/cylinder with a progressive nitrous controller. One kit one carb = KISS theory
I was thinking watching this that’s a big Dice roll for a dry kit. I think a wet, direct port setup would have much better luck.
heard a lot of big nitrous guys actually prefer dry
@@dj4monie Id rather run wet on a seperate pump, that first pump starts getting darty at 600-750hp.
Dry or direct port is the way to go. In certain manifolds fuel likes to puddle causing issues. I have seen this first hand and had a Nitrous back fire on a car. The culprit was fuel puddling.
Rick Wilkinson I only had puddling issues with a big single nozzle wet shot on low RPMs. 125 shot on a neon at 3k it wasn’t happy. Setting it off at 4500 wasn’t bad.
Jerry rigged its funny you say on a neon. Because thats what i had the issue with was a srt4 on 150 shot.
Progressive nitrous controller and a wet direct port system will make it go for the 1000hp. a dedicated fuel system for the fuel solenoids with higher pressure, like 43,5 psi will be much more stabilize with smaller pressure drop when it activates
Thanks again for all your knowledge and experience. ..
Man that was a badass little 5.3 😢 rip little guy your combo will live out there somewhere 😎
That initial power spike on the stg 1 chart had me giddy and laughing like a little kid for the first time in years...
Progressive controller and a designated fuel system just for the nitrous system should help. Losing fuel pressure when the second stage hits probably caused the lean condition. I also like to use a fuel pressure safety switch that will not allow nitrous solenoids to fire if min fuel delivery is not present. Cool videos keep em coming love this channel.
The best way would be dry fogger progressive . Can be fueled correctly by Holley and injectors are more accurate ! But if it goes lean pop ! LoL . You can definitely get there with a wet plate just takes alot of jet changing progressively getting bigger keeping up with the afr . Never use nitrous when lean @@ !! LOL !! Thanks for the great video of what happens when nitrous goes lean . It could have done it on either kit they both had a lean spike that needed attention first before progressing ! Great video !!
Another great video thanks for all that you're doing. I also like that you lost the backdrop and started shooting in a more natural setting. Keep up the good work man! Look forward to seeing what's next. And if you can do a video of the btr no springs required cam on 4.8 vs 5.3 vs 6.0 it be cool to see the gains between the 3
You rock richard. Thanks for the follow up on this. I want to do something like this on a 6.0, but im afraid of the outcome.
1st Ditch that intake and tb setup.
2nd Yes direct Port wet kit
3rd A progressive will definitely stabilize the afr.
4th Holley efi will make fuel corrections on the fly
5th That cam being a 113+3 LSA is not exactly great for nitrous. A 113 LSA will normally give you great na power and work great for nitrous
6th and THIS IS IMPORTANT! Use a non projected tip plug. On my 500 shot I typically use a BR9EF.
MY QUALIFICATIONS: S-10 drag truck Stock block LS2 6.0L bored .005 over/ 4" crank = 402 cu 4.79@154 mph
2002 Trans am LS1 225 shot, full weight street car 5.64 1/8th mile stock block, stock 3rd gen rods (forged pistons)
I figured this would happen... I set up a two stage kit on a 454 and had success but one stage was through foggers and the other through a big shot plate. The plates don't seem to flow enough fuel at high hp numbers as you need an exponential amount of fuel for that much nitrous. I have a plate im going to drill out and try e85... That's my remedy... Put the kits on e85 with 40% more fuel and start rich.
OMG you were cracking me up with the repeated clip of you opening that nitrous bottle. :)
Glad you enjoyed it
Use the Wet sistem because that should prevent thous areas where AFR leans out and destroys the engine.
And also sufficient fuel system.
And to add I love your YT videos and keep up the good work!!
thnx
Definitely spray wet , especially through a fogger. And add a burst panel to that intake !
Richard, I really enjoy the videos you put out. But, when it comes to nitrous, get Stevie Fast to show you how to tune this setup!
Yep, I’m pretty much about to do this same thing with the Chaos Theory Camaro. 😂
Progressive controller, wet kit, direct port! Would eliminate the spike, allow for better monitoring, and in the real world would be preferred for traction reasons. So that would be the optimum setup.
Individual fogger nozzles with a secondary injectors dedicated to supporting the fuel needs.
For some new tech, how about a nitrous test on a gasoline direct injection engine? Maybe something like an Ecoboost V6 or even a budget naturally aspirated build like an LAF I4 which are super cheap, but compact, efficient and high compression right from the factory.
I did nitrous on an L83 5.3
I enjoy your videos and educational content, I just wish I also had your budget! All the aftermarket parts destroyed aren't cheap for those of us without sponsorship etc lol
I’m going to have to agree. You need a nitrous controller so you can ramp it in easier. I would also make sure you have enough pump on those systems. Physically bench test it. Don’t just go based on it’s flow specs. Stick both plates in a bucket and flow them as a complete system at the same time and measure the volume of fuel. Even if you change over to fogger I’d still do this and try and pin point where the problem was.
I know richard is very knowledgleable and had to know that mad scientist intake setup was gonna go boom and anyone that didnt see that coming plz step away from your nitrous bottle slowly . Awesome videos im redy to see a sbe ring gap opened up heads cam single plane intake with a fogger and a carb on ls test bet it sees 1000 before exiting the building lol
I'd like to see 2 kits, duals if course... Basically if you picked up a 2 stage kit.
You can run a custom intake with direct port wet kits and all kinds of expensive/flashy stuff... And the data will be great, but we are talking about unopened (gapped of course) bottom end, budget style... So run the intake that is on it, off the shelf 2 stage kit... And Lastly
You need to see if you can get the "Danger to inlet" screen, but back out of it before you blow the floor-bolts out of it! 🤣
I’ve got a thing for N/A Nitromethane V8 engines , like those ran in Top Alcohol class, but it’s hard to find dyno numbers. I imagine because there are few of these engines and they choke out the dyno cell with poison fumes.
Personally, I would run it dry, direct port with holley close loop WB doing the fueling and a built in AFR safety that a lean spike longer than .5 second would kill the nitrous. And bring both stages in progressively with a Holley solid state relay.
Wet system , don’t care on delivery method but definitely need a 1-2 second ramp up controller , closer to the 2 seconds with bigger than 250 shot. The spike was hitting 200 hp above max Hp as a spike .. that shock is the killer ... don’t know Exactly what happened with the lean out you experienced .. could have been a few things...I think the rule is 2° of timing per 100 shot .. I would have started safe at 10° instead of 8° ... love the videos .. keep me coming ... I bet the next engine will survive the 1000 !!!!! Your a pretty smart dude !!
so you did 45 nit jet(got 150+hp) and 65 nit jet(got 300+hp) and almost got there, is there a 75 nit or 85 nit jet? the 2 stages wasn't necessary was it? So in theory, if we're leaping 20nit every test, and we assume a 150hp increase.. and with the two stages at once we would have 110nit.. so in theory (this is never correct) [45nit=150hp] [65 nit=300hp] [85 nit=450hp] [105nit=600hp] [110nit=637.5hp] .... maybe 1138hp goal was just too hardcore of a test ??? ..85 nit should get around 950+hp no? so maybe 2 stages(4 jets) of 45 nit shot at the same time would get over the 1000hp mark? I'm a full blown amateur probably making myself look like an arse here... just can't delete this now lol.. cheers Richard love the videos
@Richard Holdener a bit off subject, but remember that engine masters where dulcheck gained +90HP by home porting his mopar heads? Curious to see what kind of gains can be obtained with just elbow grease. No valve upgrade, maybe a little decked off.
I'm doing a DIY series on the 706 heads
Would definitely run a wet fogger setup for precise cylinder to cylinder afr control and use a controller to ramp in the the hit so you have less stress/more time to monitor afr’s.
Well at least you are putting the tree fort to work since your kids abandoned it lol , keep em coming!!
Time to make it a MAN FORT
@@richardholdener1727 Well there's only one way to do that , time for a junkyard LS swapped Man fort .
I've seen that same exact lean spike, but testing a 150 shot is the max I have ever put on anyone's engine. I've drove through it and it's been fine.
Makes me wonder.....if both Solenoids are opened at the same time, but the Nitrous is under 900 psi, and the fuel is under 60psi from the rail, I'm thinking the NOS is beating the fuel to the party in the first second. That's why you see the spike in the graph and lean reading on the AFR. So I see you added fuel in the Tune at a specific RPM, kinda like your running a dry NOS setup, and it was too rich until the NOS caught up.
So, I haven't yet had the chance to run a progressive controller, and wonder if that would cure the lean spike. Further, what if you ran a 2 stage wet with a 50/100 shot first, then hit the big guns (200 shot or more) after the fuel curve had a chance to zero itself on the target? Like a mechanical progression.
Also, If your running a Holley EFI, you could setup an I/O to the O2 sensor to kill timing over 13AFR and under 10. Run it on 10 degrees total when the AFR Triggers the retard just like a knock sensor. Timing is the enemy with NOS. I've heard the stories and seen the aftermath of guys running NOS and blow their motor on the very first try. Ugh. They should've come to me first.
Why your getting a lean dip is because the distance from the solenoid to the spray bar. You have to basically hook the fuel solenoid right to the plate to stop it. If you have a setup to purge the fuel system so that there is no air on the pressure side of the system and have the smallest possible volume between the solenoid and the jet you can get this lean dip down. It looks like you have a bunch of extra line that has to fill with fuel before it hits the fuel jets. The nitrous does have this fill time but the pressure is over 1000psi it takes less time. Running two stages the nitrous system would already be purged of vapour and would have liquid up to the 2nd stage solenoid upon activation. This turns your slight lean dip into a tragedy. You really need to slow the nitrous down to the jets. Purge all the fuel up to the solenoids and add an extra 3' of line between the nitrous solenoid and spray bars.
Plz redo this one with a proper good tune, dry foggers and compensate the fuel thru a second fuel map switched on with an input to the ecu and control the n20 solenoids with an ecu output channel to allow for best control. Also plz start with conservative timing so we achieve results 🙏 🤣😂 can never have too much fuel or too little timing with n20 for longevity
When are we going to see another attempt? Use Holley to progress in the nitrous slowly instead of hitting the bottom end with a sledgehammer all at once.
awesome vid as usual. I want to do a small shot on my car, so i watch and learn as much as i can.
I stacked a couple 4150 plates back in 2000 it was a cheater plate and a big shot plate I cut one and ran it in cross configuration worked really well
Dry for sure and run individual cylinder fuel tuning. It would be wise to let the ecu control the n2o as well for a progressive shot.
Great video doing big things with LS good to see
A port injected kit will insure each cylinder receives fuel. With power level above 300 on a small motor. Power is still limited buy the swepped volume of your engine. Hard to make more than 350 hp. Add on. Progressive controller will help.
Boom! It was spectacular! Can’t wait to see the next one.
Always great content!!!...would be nice to see a direct port, dry, with a progressive controller
I’m loving all this content
Direct port wet and a 250 on the plate would be interesting to see. Also would absolutely love to see a old school 4 bolt 355 or 383 with forged internals and see how the stock block would react. I honestly believe a lot of people discredit the old sbc when there tuneups are to Blame. 👍🏼.
The editing on this video is SUPERB.
I'd run the 1st stage dry and control the fuel with the injectors and run the second stage wet
Great work,, even my ford friends get heavy into your Videos,,,,
Dry nitrous with big injectors and control everything with the Holley. Start the laughing gas at a lower RPM and ramp it up a little at a time until you're spraying 500 HP of nitrous at the NA torque peak and staying slightly rich all the way up.
What size fuel pump was ran for the nitrous ? Maybe it can only support on kit or the other. Both together and you drop fuel pressure. ( My guess ) .keep it up Richard I love the content. You made me develope a love for ls engines and now I'm l33 swaping my Jeep yj.
fuel pressure was solid-we've run 1600 hp with the fuel system
Add fuel.....you leaned out.
First stage..cool, second stage cool.
Both together boom!
What is different? We ran 2 pumps 3 regulators sprayed 300 out the gate and and 300 1.5 seconds out back in the late 90's on a built a4 block 306 Victor Jr heads...my point? 1 pump and regular for motor and one pump and 2 regulators for NX system we ran.
We pulled allot of timeing out early and lost a little, not much in the 60ft but it woke up with 2nd stage.
And I know about progressive controllers , 2 steps etc back then but when you're wanting to go fast and don't have the funds to keep replacing parts...you learn quick with what you can afford.
Wet fogger direct port. Individual cylinder O2 or EGT readings, at least one slow motion clip when you blow shit up. It’s a guilty pleasure.
DRY FOGGER FOR SURE!!!! Fuel and nitrous distribution is critical. I had a customer renting my dyno that went through this learning curve on a honda engine. It was making 230 fwhp and he used a dry fogger to make another 205 hp on spray. The customer went through a few engines before he was able to make more than another 140 hp without melt the same piston every time.
Better control over the fuel with a dry setup too.
Keep the vids coming Richard. Great stuff.
If I had to do it I would go with a progressive when I begin to bring the second kit in when second kit comes on I would only hit it with 50% and say it comes in at 5500 rpm from there to say 7000rpm then I would bring in the remaining 50% in by 6500 and also I would pull extra timing out at peak torque and gradually bring the timing back in as you get closer to your peak rpm
They weren’t using Nos back in the 70s and I’m glad because I would have had a basket case for an engine. As we know man has to know his limitations, or was that a Clint Eastwood line?
I realize it's late, but you always fatten the second kit when you stack plates.
Pls re-do with everything the same except for the bad tune-up and a WET Fogger kit.
For bonus points, then test the identical long block with a CID intake Richard.
Great vid as usual.
This is an older post. But what about running a time delay relay with a wet system so that the nos solinoid is delayed say 1500 hundreths of a second or so. That way they come on together.
So what did the stock live to before the ring gap caught up with you? Before you changed the cam ect. I may have heard incorrectly but didn't you say you started out with a smaller ring gap? None the less, great footage. Nothing like seeing Carnage while I wake up for work. I dig it
we changed ring gap before testing-but have run 300 shots on no gap-but it was a very high mileage motor
thanks Richard for doing all these cool videos
Just like others have said that spike has to be hammering the internals when it hits. I believe it can make close to 1000hp but unlike forced induction it will be limited to the amount of nitrous it can ingest.
What about keep the throttle bodies but also add 40 lb injectors tied to the second stage hit. Will give you the fuel you need plus a bit of a bonus of cool fuel.