How to Quarter Drivers on Steam Locomotive Models (BASIC tools only)
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- čas přidán 21. 12. 2022
- Hey guys, today I show how I quarter my wheels, and give some tips. Enjoy!
For anyone interested in seeing how I did the wheel insulation repair, here's a link to it:
cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/2922... - Krátké a kreslené filmy
good explanation, thanx..
Thanks for the vid, especially when I'm going to have to quarter my H5 later
glad to have helped!
I had to requarter some wheel sets on a few of my John English A5's and a couple of Bowser kits because of cracked axle gears that I replaced with spare Athearn axle gears . I found scribing a line in the middle of the axle 90 degrees from the crank pin helped keep things lined up. I used a home made bearing separator plate sliced into a flat file to fit around the axle ,and a punch slightly smaller than the size of the axle to remove the wheels and my small bench vise turned on it's end ans a press to reinstall
sounds like another great way to do it! thanks for sharing
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Also I have a friend who started importing replacement wheels for brass steam locomotives. It's saved me so much time and effort, but I still will try to do the repair myself if I don't have to replace it.
nice lol wish I had a friend like that
I have perfect eye coordination . Set one pair of wheels to 45 degrees then just use the coupling rods to set the other wheels. Result no binding.
thats impressive! wish i had your abilities haha. this video is for the rest of us who dont have that kinda ability.
Could you possibly show how to put the side arms and linkage on the wheels. I have a loco that seems to lock up coastally.
Hello, that would depend a lot on the exact model you have. Every manufacturer and every model would have a different rod assembly. I wouldnt be able to make a general video which would cover such a topic. Locking up would have to be troubleshot by yourself. I would suggest removing one rod or wheel at a time, and testing to see if the binding goes away. then youll know what wheel or rod was causing the binding in the first place. Good luck!
I don't even use my NWSL Quartering tool as it's just easier with scoring...LOL!
Hi there , You mentioned a quartering tool. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a brand name for that quartering tool. As you shown there on your video about quartering and pressing the wheel back on you used the little puller pusher.
I have done the same with a small table vice or a small 3" g-clamp and you only have to watch for the extra unflat bits like the counter weignts on the wheel but all you need to add is a small piece of flat steel to cover the axle and wind it up until it is in its right inner wheel dimensions. Awesome video & thankyou.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Hey! The pulling/pressing tool is called "The Puller" by NWSL (Northwest Shortline). The quartering tool I mentioned is called "The Quarterer" by NWSL. Glad to hear my video helped!
@@trainman440 sorry
You have to quarter every wheel set like on a 484 correct
Hey! yes all wheels need to be in quarter (aka all exactly 90 degrees offset). However you only have to manually requarter the wheels if a particular wheelset is OUT of quarter. Therefore, unless all your wheels are out of quarter, you wont have to manually pull out all wheels.
@trainman440 thank you I'm changing the drive axles on my engine
@@AEStudt good luck!
you talk too much, just get to the point
dude, its a 9 minute video...you dont even have 9 minutes to spend when youre trying to work on a model? This isnt tiktok. Its meant to be an informative video. Also, you can always fast forward in the video, that's what the red bar at the bottom is for.