We’re all different and all have different opinions. I can’t say I agree - I think it looks horrible. The situation is still ongoing; the person who supplied and fitted it has agreed to carry out further repairs when the boat and I return to the UK next month. 🤞
I have seen many many videos on CZcams complaining about this or that brand of imitation teak. NOT ONE showed a bad product, ALL showed a bad installation. YOU Half to have a 1. clean surface. 2. Rubbed down with 90%+ Alcohol. 3. The adhesive has a working time before it skims over, don't let it dry skim. 4. The Product has to be flat, Ideally heated to 72-75 degrees, to get rid of memory from being rolled up. And so on and so on. If the tyle in your bathroom come up, do you blame the tile. Bad tile, don't buy ceramic tile. I guess common sense is not common.
Thank you for your comments, Paul. I must say; you demonstrate your adage re. common sense quite admirably - by totally missing the point. Neither in my video nor in my own comments do I criticise the product - quite the reverse. Nor do I criticise the installation; the problem is clearly in the manufacturing. Although your bathroom tile analogy doesn’t really work here as there are two stages of manufacturing; the raw product followed by the deck assembly, I’ll try to use it for clarification. The tiles are not lifting, they are falling apart, as I explained in my comment. Ergo: a manufacturing/assembly fault.
@@Offatatangentthe twelve spots are lifting due to the adhesive letting go. I agree with you about the product. It’s not the product. It’s not the Isiteek, it’s not the adhesive. It’s poor adhesive application. Either surface prep wasn’t done or the adhesive was left for too many minutes thus dried (Skinned over)(probably by spreading too wide an area before laying down the Teek)(and not pressure rolling enough) Sad that’s going to cost big bucks to fix. Best of luck.
Seems it wasn't glued down right and they left air in channels where water could get in and squeeze back out and break seems when walking. So I think it's an installation issue. If you have enough glue for no air to remain under the deck when installed then it would not do this I think. In the isiteak install videos you see there is channels on the bottom side that gets glued, flexiteek is the same I imagine. So if the glue layer is thin then the to of channels would not get filled and depends how you lay it down too from one end or center out to let air out. I think that was the issue.
Thank you for sharing. Is this 1st or 2nd generation Flexiteek? When it was glued down: did it come as a continuous "carpet" or was it installed like traditional teak "line" by "line"?
2nd gen. fitted as one sheet. The product is supplied 2 “planks” wide & then welded in a workshop. As all of the opening joints are 2 planks apart it looks like the welds are failing.
@@Offatatangent I assume that the workshop is liable, then. Did they do the welding based on a template of your deck? I have talked to the company that does the original Flexiteek deck for Hanse, Dehler and Moody and they put a lot of effort in the gluing process as well: They put a layer of 6mm chipboard over each Flexiteek sheet, when gluing it down, and use a vacuum plastic sheet to suck the chipboard onto the glued down Flexiteek.
@@stefankluge8827 Yes, they templated and manufactured the deck in one piece & I have to say, the finished job looked fantastic so it’s pretty upsetting. However, the contractor (franchisee?) has agreed to remove & re weld the affected seams. I’m hopeful that will cure the problem. I’ll update on the results when it’s done.
As an update: the repairs carried out a couple of years ago lasted only a matter of months and more seams have been steadily opening up since.
Your boat looks a thousand times better with that decking than without. Even with the imperfections that just make it look more realistic looking.
We’re all different and all have different opinions. I can’t say I agree - I think it looks horrible.
The situation is still ongoing; the person who supplied and fitted it has agreed to carry out further repairs when the boat and I return to the UK next month. 🤞
I have seen many many videos on CZcams complaining about this or that brand of imitation teak. NOT ONE showed a bad product, ALL showed a bad installation. YOU Half to have a 1. clean surface. 2. Rubbed down with 90%+ Alcohol. 3. The adhesive has a working time before it skims over, don't let it dry skim. 4. The Product has to be flat, Ideally heated to 72-75 degrees, to get rid of memory from being rolled up. And so on and so on. If the tyle in your bathroom come up, do you blame the tile. Bad tile, don't buy ceramic tile. I guess common sense is not common.
Thank you for your comments, Paul. I must say; you demonstrate your adage re. common sense quite admirably - by totally missing the point.
Neither in my video nor in my own comments do I criticise the product - quite the reverse. Nor do I criticise the installation; the problem is clearly in the manufacturing.
Although your bathroom tile analogy doesn’t really work here as there are two stages of manufacturing; the raw product followed by the deck assembly, I’ll try to use it for clarification. The tiles are not lifting, they are falling apart, as I explained in my comment. Ergo: a manufacturing/assembly fault.
@@Offatatangentthe twelve spots are lifting due to the adhesive letting go. I agree with you about the product. It’s not the product. It’s not the Isiteek, it’s not the adhesive. It’s poor adhesive application. Either surface prep wasn’t done or the adhesive was left for too many minutes thus dried (Skinned over)(probably by spreading too wide an area before laying down the Teek)(and not pressure rolling enough) Sad that’s going to cost big bucks to fix. Best of luck.
So what was the final result, was it fixed?
Seems it wasn't glued down right and they left air in channels where water could get in and squeeze back out and break seems when walking. So I think it's an installation issue. If you have enough glue for no air to remain under the deck when installed then it would not do this I think. In the isiteak install videos you see there is channels on the bottom side that gets glued, flexiteek is the same I imagine. So if the glue layer is thin then the to of channels would not get filled and depends how you lay it down too from one end or center out to let air out. I think that was the issue.
That’s how mine started as well on a Hanse 505, now it’s completely disintegrated and the whole decks need to be replaced.
Hi, I am thinking of adding Flexiteek to my 39ft C&N. Would you recommend it now, given the issues you have had?
Cheers
Steve
Thank you for sharing. Is this 1st or 2nd generation Flexiteek? When it was glued down: did it come as a continuous "carpet" or was it installed like traditional teak "line" by "line"?
2nd gen. fitted as one sheet. The product is supplied 2 “planks” wide & then welded in a workshop. As all of the opening joints are 2 planks apart it looks like the welds are failing.
@@Offatatangent I assume that the workshop is liable, then. Did they do the welding based on a template of your deck?
I have talked to the company that does the original Flexiteek deck for Hanse, Dehler and Moody and they put a lot of effort in the gluing process as well: They put a layer of 6mm chipboard over each Flexiteek sheet, when gluing it down, and use a vacuum plastic sheet to suck the chipboard onto the glued down Flexiteek.
@@stefankluge8827 Yes, they templated and manufactured the deck in one piece & I have to say, the finished job looked fantastic so it’s pretty upsetting. However, the contractor (franchisee?) has agreed to remove & re weld the affected seams. I’m hopeful that will cure the problem. I’ll update on the results when it’s done.
@@Offatatangent Hi there, I curious what happened after the contractor redid the job. Are you happier now?
BTW I have a 36ft Grand Bank's what would it cost to do? Ballpark #
Interesting. Do you think its poor installation or a faulty product?
It looks likely that this is an assembly failure rather than a fault with the materials